A LUXURY & INDULGENCE SPECIAL REPORT South April 10-11, 2009

Private isle

Bruce Elder discovers a fi ve-star wilderness.

f there is one place in Australia that is both magical peace with nature. It has enough extraordinary natural fea- country’s best accommodation options? Simply because the and largely undiscovered it is Kangaroo Island. The tures – Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch in Flinders island offers a genuine wilderness for that exclusive club of tendency for holidaymakers from Sydney and Mel- Chase National Park are the most famous – to leave even travellers for whom money is no object. bourne to look north (whether it be to Noosa, Byron the most world-weary traveller gasping in wonder. Take, for example, LifeTime Private Retreats at Snelling Bay,I the Whitsundays, the Great Barrier Reef, Bali or Phu- It prides itself on its natural produce – particularly Beach. If you thought the Greek Islands, the Amalfi Coast in ket) has meant that the continent’s third-largest island, situ- delicious marron, excellent local cheeses and high-quality Italy or the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia were idyllic, then ated in the Southern Ocean, has been largely overlooked. Ligurian honey. And, almost incidentally, it has a diverse you have never stayed at the Cliff House. At $950 a night a Strange, really, because it has some of our most beautiful coastline that includes white and firm beaches, dauntingly person (it sleeps six but, for comfort, it is ideal for a maxi- beaches – a Sydney University survey of 10,000 beaches sheer and rugged cliffs, hideaway coves and intimate bays. mum of four), which drops back to $900 a night if you stay declared Vivonne Bay, on the south side of the island, to be In recent times the island’s unique qualities have seen for more than four nights, it seems like a laughably cheap the best beach in Australia (see story, page 2). the emergence of seriously top-dollar accommodation. Thus option. What price do you put on paradise? It has vast tracts of unspoilt wilderness protected care- a visitor, prepared to spend $1000 (or more) a person a Imagine a small beach. It is an arc of pure white sand, fully by South Australian National Parks and Wildlife – night, can now start on Lizard Island north of Cairns, stop totally isolated, peaceful, safe for swimming and edged by national and conservation parks account for more than one- off at Bedarra in the Whitsundays, make their way across to honey-coloured cliffs. On one cliff stands a solitary building: third of the island. It abounds in accessible fauna from, El Questro in the Kimberley, down to Longitude 131 at the Cliff House. Designed and built by an architect, it has obviously, kangaroos through sea lions to both Australian Uluru and end up at either Southern Ocean Lodge on sensuous curving lines, a circular tower (really a kind of and New Zealand fur seals. Kangaroo Island’s south coast or Lifetime Private Retreats folly) that has been converted into a bedroom, a huge sun- It has many areas where, largely because of small tourist at Snelling Beach on the north coast. ken pit with cushions and panoramic views over the ocean, numbers and dirt roads, the visitor can feel alone and at Why does Kangaroo Island now boast two of the Continued Page 4

FLINDERS RANGES GAWLER RANGES Far and away Chef’s special Designer canvas New digs in an ancient land. Dinner with a culinary treasure. Glamping in the . Page 4 Page 6 Page 8

FETV 001 4 SPECIAL REPORT THE AGE HOLIDAY EDITION, APRIL 10-11, 2009 HOLIDAY EDITION, APRIL 10-11, 2009 THE AGE SPECIAL REPORT 5

DESTINATION

FAST FACTS

Getting there Kangaroo Island SeaLink ferry runs from Cape Jervis (107km south of Adelaide) to Penneshaw. Tickets cost from $82 return for adults; vehicles from $160 return. See sealink.com.au. Regional Express flies regularly from Adelaide to Kingscote. Tickets from $86 one way. See rex.com.au. Southern Ocean Lodge offers charter flights from Adelaide to Kingscote, from $1400 for four passengers. Staying there Southern Ocean Lodge rates start at $900 a person a night (minimum two-night stay) in the Flinders Suite and rise to $1800 a person a night (minimum two-night stay) in the Osprey Pavilion. See southernoceanlodge.com.au. Lifetime Private Retreats offers a range of accommodation options starting from house rental only at $460 a night (minimum of four nights) and rising to $950 a person a night for the Full Solstice package at Cliff House. See life-time.com.au.

than high. The 21 suites stretch from the foyer and dining area down the hill towards the beach. This Private isle means journeys to and from your suite can take on the quality of a brisk and healthy walk. The suites are models of privacy and discretion. Outback DESTINATION From Page 1 Guests are told they cannot wander around the a broad terrace where you can sit and enjoy the KANGAROO ISLAND front of the building. This means each suite’s view view down to the beach and a spa perched on the of the Southern Ocean is uninterrupted; even the edge of the cliff. Oh, yes, and there are two spacious bathrooms feature a dramatic glass wall offering bathrooms, an excellent and substantial kitchen naire that asks ‘‘What music is important to you?’’ superb views. The rooms are huge and the living and two large bedrooms with king-size beds. (resulting in a CD made to reflect your tastes) and area, with its extensive couches and chairs, even There’s also a path leading down to the beach, ‘‘What food or meal comforts your soul?’’ (which includes an in-table fireplace – an extraordinary opulence where you can feel as though you alone own this determines the kind of meal you will be served). device in the middle of the coffee table that can be Hidden gem ... Rawnsley Park Station (top); wonderful stretch of coastline. Brother-and-sister team Nick and Rachel Han- lit to offer a pleasant, ambient heat. The rates range and inside one of the chic eco-villas. Visitors asked to pay top dollar expect top ser- naford make every effort to balance food, sea and from $900 to $1100 a person a night with a mini- Kay O’Sullivan enjoys the romantic isolation of the bush vice. At Lifetime, they are collected from Kingscote environment for a relaxing and satisfying break. mum two-night stay. without giving up her creature comforts. Airport (it is 80 kilometres from Snelling Beach By contrast, on the other side of the island, some The lounge bar is always open and guests are and much of the route is on dirt roads) and can 96 kilometres from Kingscote and only a few min- encouraged to help themselves. The meals are of Upgrades on horizon relax and gaze at the ocean while a chef prepares utes from Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch, a high standard with an emphasis on South Aus- ‘‘ their breakfast and evening meal in the kitchen. lies Southern Ocean Lodge. This is not a place of tralian wines and the produce of the island. he Flinders Ranges do not give up their There had to be a way forward and sheep secrets easily. It takes effort to discover farming wasn’t going to sustain us,’’ says Clem’s Ask anyone in about Fresh local produce and interesting Asian fusion intimacy. It is, as the electronic gates suggest, a For all its class, however, Southern Ocean Remote hospitality ... Jon and Sally Dean serve drinks at Chace Range. Photo: Kay O’Sullivan cooking are the stars. place of privacy, great beauty and sheer class. It is Lodge is only a very, very upmarket hotel. Its them. This tough, unforgiving chunk of son, Tony, who now owns the property. Today, tourism in the Flinders Ranges and the The emphasis here is on the individual. Before a unique experiment in environmentally friendly real appeal lies in its exceptional extras. The the outback, with its jagged ranges, end- Tony Smith oversees one of the most successful name Rasheed gets a mention. The Tless vistas and diverse range of vegetation, under- resorts in South Australia. It has won awards and are sleek and easy to use. There’s evocative Another bright idea was coaxing regional food family ran Wilpena Pound Resort, on the you arrive, you will have completed a question- five-star accommodation, being built long rather ability, on perfectly constructed boardwalks, to get to the beach and go walking – usually with- lines the spirit of the explorers and the optimism welcomes more than 20,000 tourists a year. artwork on the walls and the finishes are first rate. identities Jon and Sally Dean to the Woolshed other side of Wilpena Pound to Rawnsley out another person on the beach – while the of those who followed in their path to make lives The resort has varying standards of accommo- Hunt further and you discover all those touches Restaurant. If switching on the barbie is too much Park Station, from the 1930s to last year. Southern Ocean waves roll in and crash on the here. Nothing could have been easy. dation – cabins, bunkhouses, a camping ground – that lift accommodation into a top-notch experi- effort after a day of hiking or four-wheel-drive Keith and Lynette Rasheed were in ’ headlands. The opportunity to go beach fishing. To be frank, it s the kind of place that those as well as a restaurant and store and last month ence. Fancy a cup of coffee? Reach for the plunger touring, then the Woolshed provides an easy, city- charge there with Dean and Lizzie The organised walks around the cliffs by guides who are inordinately fond of their creature Smith opened the four luxury eco-villas on a and freshly ground beans. There are two types of standard option. Rasheed welcoming guests to their home ’ familiar with the flora and fauna of the area. The comforts, and I put myself in this category, find a secluded ridge five minutes drive from the other loose-leaf tea. Out on the wide veranda is a mon- No one would deny South Australia has some of , 15 kilometres south of truly extraordinary Li’tya Southern Spa, where bit daunting. facilities. The three one-bedroom villas and one ster of a barbecue that comes alight with the flick the best regional food in Australia. Look at the Baro- the Pound. you can have a Ligurian honey-and-almond pol- Adventure is one thing – bring it on, I say – but two-bedroom villa take the total on the property of a switch. The stainless-steel fridge is packed ssa; think of the Clare Valley. But the Flinders Ran- But times are changing on the Flinders ish (body exfoliation, water therapy and mass- I do like a soft landing at the end of the day and to eight. with assorted goodies, such as chewy bread and ges are 430 kilometres away from Adelaide and that Ranges tourism scene. This time last ’ ‘‘ age) while perched on a clifftop gazing over the that hasn t always been possible here. The open- It was a bit of a risk when we built the first tasty condiments. presents problems in terms of produce and staff. year, Keith and Lynette sold the property ’’ Southern Ocean. The late afternoon drives – in ing of four super-smart eco-villas at Rawnsley ones [in 2006], he says. For those who can drag themselves away from The Deans have worked at several boutique to Anthology Travel, operated by Grant ’ Mercedes G Class four-wheel-drives – to see a Park Station, on the southern ridge of Wilpena Occupancy of 60 per cent to 70 per cent per- the view, there s a plasma television and an country hotels and arrived at Rawnsley Park 16 Hunt. Hunt ran the Voyages Hotels and small portion of the island’s kangaroo popu- impressive sound system. months ago. On offer are marinated kangaroo fil- Resorts for 10 years, building most ’ lation. The bespoke guided tours of Seal Bay and And then there s the star turn, the bedroom. lets grilled quickly and served with a bordeaux jus, memorably Longitude 131 at Uluru. The to Flinders Chase National Park to experience You discover all those touches that lift accommodation into Feeling as I do about soft landings, the bedroom handmade pistachio biscotti, Tommy Ruffs company has employed Sydney interior the isolated beauty of Remarkable Rocks and the in the eco-villas delivers on that front. The bed is (South Australian herring) stuffed with lemon and design company Pike Withers to upgrade geological complexity of Admirals Arch. a top-notch experience. big and comfy – you almost need to jump up to onion with a cream-and-caper sauce served over the resort’s 60 rooms to four-star There is a reason why Kangaroo Island has truly get in – and the sheets have a lavish thread count. rosemary potatoes. standard. Work is expected to be finished outstanding luxury accommodation: it is one of the All of that pales into insignificance, however, The Deans also prepare the nibbles that go with later this month. There are plans to last accessible wilderness areas in the country. The when you lie down and find yourself staring at the a two-hour 4WD tour up a bone-crunching track refurbish the eating and public areas. beaches are some of the finest in the world. The Pound, is, however, cause for a rethink. Rawnsley suaded Smith to spend the $1.2 million needed to Milky Way. Just flick the bedside switch and back to one of the highest peaks in the Chace Range. And Charlie Carlow, the owner of two ’ natural features are dramatic and there is a sense of Park Station s history dates back to the early double his quota. For his efforts, the station was folds the retractable roof. There, they serve good bubbles and tempt you to luxury outback properties, Bamurru ’ unspoilt peacefulness, which stands in sharp con- explorers. It was the first pastoral lease granted in the first in South Australia to be certified as an It s an impressive show and one that com- take a second or third fig stuffed with gorgonzola. Plains on the Mary River in the Northern ’ trast to the bustle and urgency of urban life. With the central Flinders Ranges. But sheep farming in ecotourism operator by Ecotourism Australia. petes in the memory bank with the kangaroos Now, that s my kind of adventure. Territory and Sal Salis, a luxury bush places like Lifetime Private Retreats and Southern a region that receives about 300 millimetres of The spacious units are made of packed straw hopping up onto the balcony at dawn and sun- camp on the Kimberley coastline, is to Kay O’Sullivan travelled courtesy of South Australian Ocean Lodge, Australia can truly say it has acc- rain annually, more often than not in the wrong rendered an ochre that reflects the surrounding set drinks, which include excellent nibbles, high take over Arkaba Station. He, too, is Tourism Commission. ommodation and experiences to match the likes of season, is a tough ask. landscape. Once inside, you could be in a luxury on Chace Range. planning a few cosmetic changes before ‘‘ New Zealand’s lodges and the paradores of Spain. Clem Smith settled on the 3000-hectare farm in retreat in a chi-chi hamlet close to a big city, except We decided we needed to do something a bit working on major improvements. The very best ... (clockwise from above) Lifetime Private Retreat’s finely appointed Sky House at the early 1950s and persisted with sheep against for one thing: the glorious isolation and distant different and all the internationals, in particular, Rawnsley Park Station, Wilpena Pound, (08) 8648 0030, See wilpenapound.com.au and Snelling Beach; guests enjoy a meal with a view at the retreat’s Cliff House; modern elegance with Bruce Elder travelled courtesy of South Australian the odds before deciding in 1968 that tourism had views of the bony-spined Elder Ranges. mention the number of stars, so we thought that rawnsleypark.com.au. The eco-villas are $340 a night arkabastation.com. a stunning uninterrupted outlook at Southern Ocean Lodge, on the island’s south coast. Tourism Commission. to be a better way to earn a quid. Boards gleam and the stainless-steel appliances would be a good idea,’’ Smith says. He was right. (one bed) and $380 (two bed).

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