Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 3 Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 3

he Cariboo Waggon Road, built under the direction of Governor TDouglas, was an engineering marvel carved by hand and horse out of violent canyons and virgin forest, from Yale to the goldfields of Barkerville. It became the backbone of the newborn colony and her construction very nearly broke the back of the colonial treasury. Today nd old ones have grown larger or crumbled away altogether, yet the original route, charted by Royal Engineers and constructed by civilian road crews, remains remarkably intact. It is a vital link to a time only recently faded from our memories; an era you can still travel to given a little imagination and time to explore. An English traveler and would-be miner, W. Champness described an illustrative scene in 1862: Features John Jessop A d v e n t u r e r n our way hither from the ferry we witnessed a curious spectacle. Some men were engaged in blasting the rocks beneath a tremendous O v e r l a n d e r precipice, for a continuation of the new waggon route on level ground, instead of the present trail over the lofty mountain, two O page 4 thousand feet above them. Whilst we were watching the work awhile, we heard a rushing noise and, looking up, saw a large body coming down headlong from the elevated trail. It proved to be a splendid mule, which had made a false step and so fallen headlong. Of course the poor beast was killed instantaneously. A small encampment of Indians nearby immediately came hastening in to secure the tempting prize as a The Incredible feast. Men and women, with papooses, all clustered around the carcass, which they speedily cut up and carried off in pieces. Their delight J.T. Halpenny found expression in loud cries of “Muck-muck,” i. e., something good to eat. They cook the flesh by holding it on a stick over a fire, warm Letters the outside a little, and then greedily devour and gnaw it, as dogs with a bone. page 5 he blasting party engaged here consisted of twenty five or thirty miners, all of whom had been to Cariboo, but had re-turned down Tcountry, disappointed. Yet so thoroughly convinced were they of the existence of a large quantity of the precious metal at the diggings, A Kentucky that all were resolved to try their success once more next spring. They declared “the gold is there, sure enough; and we’re bound to have some C a n n i b a l of it before we go home.” Several of them had already secured claims at the mines, which they worked on till the rain and frost compelled C o m e s To their abandonment for the season; but they looked forward with confidence to the resumption of operations there. We heartily wished them C a r i b o o success, for they were a fine lot of men, true Britons to the core, bold as lions, and almost as hardy and weather-proof as the rocks they were p a g e 9 now quarrying. e had seen a spot where about twelve wretched Indians had been buried by some of the settlers in the neighbourhood. All had been T h e G r e e n Wseized with smallpox, and, immediately on the appearance of the disease amongst them, their fellow-countrymen had abandoned G o l d O f them to their inevitable fate. The dread of disease by the Indians far surpasses their fear of violent or sudden death… C a r i b o o p a g e 1 0

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Original and reconstructed buildings Disclaimer: Readers please note that many of the articles pub- lished in the Gold Rush Trail Journal are taken from much Costumed staff, displays, demonstrations, gift shop older periodicals and original documents and may reflect views concerning race, gender, financial status, height, weight, BringingBringing origin &c. that were widely held at that time but do not neces- Family, seasonal and group rates available sarily represent the opinions of the publisher nor staff of the Phone 604 513-4777 • Fax 604 513-4798 Gold Rush Trail Journal. The editorial staff has made the deci- thethe TrailTrail sion to retain in all instances the original text and meaning of Email: [email protected] these articles in order that the Journal may be a window on Website: www.parkscan.harbour.com/fl to Life our heritage rather than a filter. In this context, we hope that to Life you enjoy the paper and learn something from reading it. Page 4 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 5 JOHN JESSOP: OVERLANDER ~ ADVENTURER from “This Hard Land” by Richard Thomas Wright ohn Jessop was heading west, submitting to his spring restless- 28 days, over 49 por- groups, each choos- ness and the scent of adventure in the wildly circulating reports tages, accompanied by ing a different route. of the “golden sands and almost fabulous wealth on the banks a hunger approaching “Turn-back” Nobles J starvation. Their adven- returned to St. Paul. of the Fraser River.” He was 29 years old and for the past four years had taught school in Whitby, Canada West. It was time for a change. ture had just begun. This left 20 men spread over thou- If there was no gold out there, there would be something else. And so, At this same time “The Fraser River Gold sands of miles of prai- as he later wrote in newspaper accounts, “In the early spring of 1859 an rie, each trying to adventurer passed over find the easiest and the partly ballasted fastest route west. Northern Railroad from North of the 49th ducks from the potholes, Toronto to Collingwood, parallel the choice of prairie chickens from with knapsack, Bowie land routes was limited the grasslands, deer, knife and revolver, and to two. The newly-born badger, foxes, an occa- took passage on board Carlton Trail swung sional bear and the a small iron steamer through the Northern “vicious looking prairie called the Rescue, on Parkland, linking Forts wolves.” Garry, Ellice, Carlton her first trip to the head Jessop wrote, “On one and Edmonton.was a of Lake Superior.” occasion two buffaloes long route, and the HBC were killed about half a The late 1850s were forts offered few provi- turbulent times for the mile from camp in…the colonies destined to At daylight not an ounce of become Canada. News- papers wrote of the “flesh was to be found, while west, the fur trade thoroughly picked bones were areas of Rupert’s land scattered over an acre or two of and the new west coast ground.” colonies of Vancouver’s golden sands and almost Hunting and Saskatch- Island and British ewan Exploring Expe- sions, but it was well evening and left with the Columbia. When gold “fabulous wealth on the banks dition” was underway traveled and relatively intention of taking what was found on the Fraser of the Fraser River.” from St. Paul, Minne- sota. The expedition’s safe. was needed of them next River in 1858, British name suggests its diver- The alternative was morning. The dead ani- Columbia became more than a fur empire. Merchants, politicians and sity of interests. Under a southern route along mals, however, brought American and British expansionists alike saw the need and desirabil- the leadership of Colo- the South Saskatchewan hundreds of those prai- ity of a route linking this rich area with the populated eastern town- nel William Nobles its and Belly rivers through rie scavengers from all ships. There was talk of a confederation of settlements and colonies. purpose was to locate buffalo country freq- points…and the pande- The Pacific outposts suddenly had importance, and to those willing to a route west benefiting uented by nomadic monium thus created make the journey and the sacrifices they offered a new life. To a young the expansionist minded Sioux and unpredictable can scarcely be imag- school teacher the lure was irresistible. John Jessop headed west. merchants of Minnesota. Blackfeet. This was ined. At daylight not an Their route was to be shorter, with buffalo for ounce of flesh was to be John Jessop was born in Norwich, England, June 29, 1829, and emi- north through Fort ready meat, but it was found, while thoroughly grated to Canada with his parents in 1846. They immigrated as bal- Garry and west onto the unmarked, untraveled picked bones were scat- last, crammed into the holds of timber ships that would otherwise plains. and dangerous. tered over an acre or return empty. For the first few years young Jessop worked at lumber- two of ground.” Jessop heard rumors At Fort Ellice, 240 ing, printing and journalism. In 1853 he enrolled in Ryerson’s new of the Nobles group and miles west of Fort Garry, The consistent meat Normal School in Toronto, graduating in 1855 with a First Class Cer- planned to join them Jessop and Duff met and diet brought on sore tificate. He then taught school in Whitby for four years. for protection against joined a Nobles expedi- gums and lymph glands, the early symptoms of Resigning his position in 1859, Jessop joined the several hundred Indian attacks, but at tion splinter group, the scurvy. Water was men who, over the next few years, crossed Canada by land to British Fort Garry his party Moulton or Bovine party, found that the “…Fraser scarce and often too Columbia. These men shunned the long, expensive sea voyage and who in heading for Fort River seemed infinitely Union on the Missouri alkaline to drink. Rain- headed west directly, earning the name “Overlander”. British Imperi- further off than at the River had swung too water was important for alist Jessop went them one better. He tackled the route of fur brigades mouth of the Kaminis- far north around the drinking, yet soaked the and solitary plainsmen across the Canadian Shield and the southern tikwia.” The intimidat- Missouri Couteau. The buffalo chips that pro- plains, avoiding the easier route through St. Paul, Minnesota, to Fort ing expanse of the plains eight men decided on vided fuel on the tree- Garry. Jessop chose “…a route on British soil, between the eastern frightened off all but the southern route. less plains. The grass Elijah Duff, a 36-year- was parched, and huge and western colonies of the empire.” Marching west at 15 old ex British Army offi- sweeping fires, often to 30 miles a day, they Jessop’s land journey began prematurely when he and his six com- cer of Belleville, and started by natives to wandered through vast panions had to disembark the Rescue on the ice of Lake Superior some John Jessop. When six drive buffalo or hamper herds of buffalo. “Not a distance offshore at Fort William. They purchased provisions for a weeks passed with no white parties, had clear day passed with- five-week journey and a North canoe, hired a half-breed guide and an sign of Nobles, Jessop scoured vast areas. The out seeing from ten or a Indian steersman—and then waited three weeks for the ice to break and Duff grew impa- horses weakened and dozen to as many thou- tient. Disregarding trou- died. up. sands or more of these ble with the Sioux and From Fort William they took the Kam-Dog Route over the formidable noble animals,” Jessop Past the Qu’Appelle ignoring “…the foolhar- wrote. They walked & Saskatchewan rivers Hauteur de Terre, the Height of Land, from where streams flowed west diness of this undertak- through a time and wil- the party lost track of into the frontier. Their route, plagued by clouds of black flies and mos- ing…” they purchased derness that was never where they were. Was quitoes, took them through the heart of what is now Quetico Provincial a well-used Indian pony again to be seen. It the river they followed Park. Midway, provisions ran out and Jessop realized their planning and a Red River cart was an enviable era the Bow or the Belly? had been optimistic. Then on one of the many fatiguing portages, they and headed west, with- for adventurers. There How far to the found a sack of peas dropped by the fur brigade. “Pea soup,” Jessop noted, out a guide, on July 23. was beauty, and there mountains? Would the “was a cuisine that can hardly be recommended as a permanency.” Nobles was indeed was grandeur, yet often remaining stock last? The fur posts of the Shield were also short of provisions, so short, in fact, late. Plagued with these were lost in the Jessop felt a growing they were unable to feed the transients. So with only a few fish from an breakdowns, poor plan- struggle of the moment. urgency to be further Indian band they paddled on empty stomachs down Rainy River through the ning and weak lead- Their Sharps rifles pro- along. intricate Lake of the Woods course into the rapid-filled Winnipeg River. They ership the expedition vided them with tender JESSOP CONT. ON PAGE 6 reached Fort Garry on June 13, after two months of travel, paddling for fractured into four heifers, and there were

Page 4 Summer 2001 Page 5 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada The Halpenny Letters  he Gold Rush Trail Journal has come across an incredible set of twelve lettersletters written written by by Overlander Overlander Joseph Joseph T. T. Halpenny Halpenny between between 1862 1862 and and T 1870. The letters were recently discovered by Sharlene Shipman Baker among the papers of a recently deceased relative. Mrs. Shipman Baker con-- tactedtacted usus justjust priorprior toto publicationpublication ofof thethe JournalJournal andand wewe areare veryvery pleasedpleased toto havehave thethe opportunityopportunity toto presentpresent thesethese exerpts.exerpts. TheThe lengthlength ofof thethe lettersletters prohibitprohibit fullfull publication in the Journal however, the complete transcripts are available on our website at www.barkerville.com/letters. Mrs. Shipman Baker has done an admirable job of transcribing the J. T. Hal-- penny letters which are in some cases nearly completely illegible. We thank her and her family for preserving these rare documents which give an empathetic and sometimes startling look into the life of a young man, who left his home and familyfamily farfar behindbehind inin searchsearch ofof thethe gloryglory andand richesriches ofof aa goldrush.goldrush. We present here the first letter written in July of 1862. InIn the the “Quotes “Quotes From From The The Past” Past” series series on on the the following following pages pages you you can can read read exerpts from other letters in the collection.

Edmington House July 26, 1862 Dear Friends Another oportunity has arived by which I can send you a fiew lines and it is my cincere hope that thay may find you enjoying the blessings of health which is one of the gratest blessings. I have never been in better health in my life thanks be to the Father of the wandrer for all his mercies to me. I can say to day his ways is pleasantness and all his paths are peace. Though I am now more than 3000 miles from my native land in the wilds of the Hudson Bay territory a land ... with dangers ... every tribe on earth in time of war amongst 2 tribes the black feet and the Crees yet I am lead home again to the class room amongst Parents and Friends by a sermon From the Rev.Thos. Woosley a Weslean Misionary who has spent 7 years teaching the wild and all most untamable Indians. He after service he brought 4 brethren or so to his bead room we being the onley 5 out of 150 belonging to his church. Though fiew in number we ware nevertheless hartly and kindley receved by him and gave us the privilage of ocuping his rudly con- structed and humble room in which I now (there are) not less than one ocupie a seat while “hundred and fifty dogs at I endeavor to wright each fort. It is a general thing to those in my one to asemble to gether and have a native land. feast on dogs flesh.” He has taken our names to report in the Christian Gardian. He tells us of his trav- els through the Indians during his 7 years abode amongst them. Dangers seen and un seen, perils by day and knight. Dangers which I have not space to pen to you but when I return to my one native land I shal relate to your astonishment. He preachs this evening on the campground . I will now tel you the form which we adopted to travel … (we number) about 150, every 2 provided their selves with one oxe

“HALPENNY LETTERS” CONTINUED ON PAGE 18

Loon Lake Page 6 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 7

THE FOUNTAIN OF FOUNTAIN HOUSE AN EARLY WINERY IN LILLOOET

An area known as the Fountain, eight miles northeast of Lillooet, became an important supply centre for miners in 1858. Situated on a high, grassy terrace above the Fraser River, it was named by French Edmington Canadians for the natural springs that came bubbling up out of the House July 26, ground, turning the semi-arid terraces into an oasis of highly produc- 1862 tive land. In view of these natural advantages an Italian, Lorenzo Latora, was I must cess writing before I burn the first to pre-empt land in the area, where he started a farm and the poor Misionary candle to a snuff. I opened a roadhouse. Latora imported grape cuttings from Italy and have gave you a faint glance at what I have sponsored three of his countrymen to establish his vineyard, The saw for the past three months nor space will not grapes made a delicious wine, which was served at the roadhouse. admit me to go further though I … would wright Dried grapes (raisins) were purchased by the miners to take with them un till morning for while I write I fance I am in on the trail. Latora remained at the Fountain until his death in 1888. my own native land telling to a tender mother or a His obituary in Victoria’s Colonist read: “Owner of one of the finest kind Father or a loving sister or some of my youth full farms in the region, his hospitality was unbounded.” The site of Lato- companions to which to be remembered and tell them if ra’s farm is now Native reserve land. I shall never meet them on earth I shal meet them in the from ~ Golden Nuggets by Branwen Patenaude land of the pure and holey whare the gold shal never rust and the wearey are at rest Intrigued by the history of Latora’s wine, and the Gold Rush Trail, Wally Martin at the Traveller’s Hotel in Langley has decided to bring a bit of the past into the present. In a historic celebration, we pased over battle ground recently fought trampled over Wally brews wine under the trademark label of Latora. Currently, Latora’s Wine is distributed at the graves allso ... across the disputed ground camped among the Domain De Chaberton Brewery; the history of the settlers ambition is explained on the back of the indians I presented a chief my knife which he received and gave me his label. visit with Wally and his wife Sharon at the Traveller’s and learn more about Lorenzo Latora in return they are astonished when they see my sword and the entire Gold Rush Trail. Joseph T. Halpenny Jessop ... CONT. FROM PG. 4 On September 15, six weeks out of Fort Ellice with the cold winds of autumn sweeping in, they finally sighted the Rockies. It was a view to last a lifetime. Though they appeared close enough to touch, it took 10 days of wading through numbing streams and crossing hindering ravines to reach the foot- hills. Now the impenetrable wall of rock loomed above them. Somehow they had expected the pass to be more accessible. But there were no trails or signposts, just the grass behind and the mountains in front. The gold seekers were looking for a way to survive. They spread out to search for a trail, and one man swam the river they were camped beside and headed for the mountains. Suddenly he was sur- prised by mounted Blackfeet. Quickly summarizing his party’s position—three horses left and winter setting in—he decided not to fight or elude them. For- tunately so, for these Blackfeet were in a friendly mood and offered help. “This cavalcade of tattered and dilapidated whites, and well-dressed and splendidly mounted and stalwart Blackfeet,” JESSOP CONT. ON PAGE 13 Page 6 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 7 ASHCROFT

“From above, to begin with God’s point of view, Ashcroft looks like a portion of His model railroad. It’s a toy town, a cluster of little rectangular buildings and peaked roofed houses set in a little river valley under a perfect sun. All around worn down hills rise up and roll away, looking like they’re made of paper maché. The river meanders through the middle of this picture – with railroad tracks on either side running away to the north and the south.” (From Bittersweet Oasis, A History of Ashcroft, by Brian Belton.)

ince the 1860’s, Ashcroft has Sbeen a key player in the growth of British Columbia. The TUK TUK CHIM name comes from the A TOWN OF MANY NAMES ranch named after the A mere 10 kilometres south of Cache Creek, nestled in a English home of the picturesque valley, is the historic valley of Ashcroft. Orig- district’s most distin- inally know as “Tuk Tuk Chim” by local native Indians, guished citizen, Lieuten- the early pioneers in the area called the place “Harpers ant-Governor Clement Mill.” After that the town was named “Barnes Station” and “St. Cloud” until 1862 when the Cornwall brothers estab- Cornwall. His home, lished the “Ashcroft Ranch” on the site where the historic Ashcroft Manor, still Ashcroft Manor is located. stands on the Trans- The town across the river was first settled by a pair of Canada Highway above prospectors, E.W. Brink and J.C. Barnes, who homesteaded the town. 300 acres between then in 1860. The two men cultivated the hay and potatoes that went to supply the farmers and Although it was the ranchers along the Thompson and Bonaparte Rivers. promise of gold that first brought people to what is now Ashcroft, many soon discovered an alternative to In 1884 the Canadian Pacific Railway established a actually having to dig to find it – providing services to those who did. Ashcroft became a transportation supply depot in the town for freight heading north to the centre; the home of Barnard’s Express, the famous stage line second in size only to Wells Fargo. The miners. Ashcroft was also called the “gateway to the Cari- “BX” headquarters building still stands on Railway Avenue. The railroad brought goods from the east boo” and was the headquarters of on of the largest stage and the west, and the BX served the Cariboo gold rush. and freight lines in the province, the B.X. Express. The railroads, once completed, left behind a thousand Chinese workers who discovered that if you add As the town of Ashcroft grew so did the Chinese com- munity. The settlers in and near Ashcroft relied on the on water to the hot, rich soil around Ashcroft, you can grow almost anything. The area became famous for the merchandise found in the store built and operated by potato and tomato growing and processing. these courageous people. A devastating fire raced through the town of Ashcroft on July 15, 1916, destroying over five From ranching to transportation to farming and then to mining, Ashcroft has a rich history that can blocks. The entire Chinatown area was destroyed by the be relived in the excellent museum and the “Walk Through Time” heritage park located in the middle of fire, which is said to have started in the Ashcroft Hotel. town. Many of the buildings of the gold rush are still being used and can be seen in this delightful little oasis by the Thompson River. Compliments of the 100 Mile and District Historical Society Page 8 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 9

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Reservations: 1-800-253-8831 www.evranch.com E-mail: [email protected] Page 8 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 9 KENTUCKY CANNIBAL IN CARIBOO A STORY OF THE KILLER, BOONE HELM Jason Young Never before in the history of colony of British Columbia had such a viscious and depraved badman, in the character of one Boone Helm, travelled amongst us. Having killed, robbed, cheated and even eaten so many of his honest brethren that it is doubtful whether even he, could have given an accurate account of his crimes; still, he escaped the laws of two countries over a period of some twenty years and left a legacy of infamy that lives on to this day.

orn in Kentucky in 1828, Boone moved with his parents to one of B the newest settlements in Missouri when urging his horse up the he was very young. “stairs into the court-room, The rough pur- (Helm) astonished the judge suits of border life by demanding with profane were congenial to his emphasis what he wanted ... tastes and, as a young man, he became known for his great physical strength and his rowdy- ism. He delighted in nothing more than any quarrel which would bring his prowess into full display. He was also an inordinate consumer of liquor, and when thus excited would give way to all the evil passions of nature. On one occasion, while the circuit court was in session, the sheriff attempted to arrest him. Helm resisted the officer, but urging his horse up the stairs into the court- room, astonished the judge by demanding with profane emphasis what he wanted with him.

Boone determined to emigrate either to Texas or California. Littlebury Shoot, a neighbour and friend had promised to accompany him. By some accounts, Shoot had made the promise to a drunken Helm with intent of pacification. When Helm heard that his friend was intending to stay in Missouri he called upon his friend’s house and an exchange of this sort took place:— “So Littlebury, you’ve backed down on the Texas question, have you?” Shoot, attempting an explanation was stopped by the preemptory demand:— “Well, are you going or not? Say yes or no.” “No!” At the utterance of this reply, Helm dissolved the brief partnership with a bowie knife between the ribs. Shoot died instantly and Boone fled West. The brother of the victim and a few resolute friends followed in pursuit. They tracked him for a distance before capturing him by surprise at an Indian reservation and returning him to Monroe county for trial. He was convicted of murder; but his conduct was such while in confinement as to raise some serious doubts of his sanity. In the words of the court, “His manner was not only unbecoming but unbalanced.”

After his conviction, under the advice of physicians, he was consigned to the lunatic asylum from which he eventually escaped and fled immediately to California. I had crossed the Snake river just “above Fort Hall, pitched my lodge Helm killed several and was entering to indulge in a brief persons then in 1858 sleep, when I heard some one outside escaped arrest by ask in a loud tone of voice, “Who owns flight to the Dalles, Oregon Territory. this shebang?” Stepping to the door and looking out, I saw a tall, cadaverous, sunken-eyed man Late in October Boone standing over me, dressed in a dirty, dilapidated and several com- coat and shirt and drawers, and moccasins so panions left Grande worn that they could scarcely be tied to his Ronde river for Camp feet.” Floyd. A first hand narrative of this adventure was detailed by John W. Powell who unwittingly saved the scoundrel’s life near the end of his journey:—

“...on the 10th of April, 1859... I had crossed the Snake river just above Fort Hall, pitched my lodge and was entering to indulge in a brief CANNIBAL ...CONTINUED ON PAGE 12 sleep, when I heard some one outside ask in a loud tone Page 10 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 11 THE GREEN GOLD OF THE CARIBOO the FIRST CATTLE RANCH IN WESTERN CANADA? rom Cache Creek north to Quesnel, Highway 97 passes through the grasslands that are the Cariboo Road. It is now an historic site. Innkeeper green gold of the Cariboo, grasslands that have been raising beef cattle since the Antoine Minnabarriet brought cattle Ffirst days of the Gold Rush. from his Oregon holdings to his Basque Ranch operation near Along with leaving thousands of miners with no prospects, the end of the Spences Bridge and California gold rush left ranchers in the northwestern United States with no Clement and Henry market for their beef. The Cariboo Gold Rush came along just in time for all Cornwall established of them. The first boatload of California prospectors arrived in Victoria in the Ashcroft Ranch April, 1858. The first herd of Oregon cattle crossed the border at Osoyoos further along. two months later. By 1870 the General Joel Palmer, a veteran of California beef drives, trailed that Cariboo gold first herd to the BC goldfields. Travelling with cattle, cowboys, and rush was all but oxen-drawn wagons carrying supplies, his crew spent two rough over, and the months on the treacherous trail. Palmer sold the oxen and supplies ranchers had at Fort Kamloops, and the cattle to meat- hungry miners prospect- little local ing along the Fraser River. market for For the next few years there was a steady stream of cattle their product. coming into the country. Drovers bought the cattle for $10 a head Most of them and paid $2 duty for each at the border. Riders wages were $30 had everything a month plus grub (sow belly, beans, and bannock). The cattle ate they owned free, and were sold for $100 to $150 dollars each at the gold fields. invested in the Most stockman made more money on one cattle drive than many land, and they miners made during the entire gold rush. had put down roots, so they Drovers bought cattle in the US in the fall when prices were low, stayed. Vil- crossed the border, and wintered the herds on the lush grass-clad lages had slopes around Cache Creek, Kamloops, and the Nicola Valley. A man grown up or two stayed with the herd. The owners returned in spring and the around most of drive continued on its way. the spreads -- some of the big ranches, Heading home with like the Gang and gold in their pockets, Douglas Lake, were vil- drovers were fair game lages all on their own. The for thieves. On his first trip cattlemen adapted with the to Barkerville, Ben Snipes, times built the country. Their age 22, was paid $50,000 in gold descendants continue to do so. dust for his herd. Warned of robbers, he left town at night. Riding a mule, not the Raising cattle is a sustainable industry, speediest of beasts, and travelling only in dark- ranches established during the gold rush are still ness, he made the 1120km trip home to Washing- in operation. A few, like the Dougherty ranch near ton in seven days with the gold intact. Clinton, and the Moffat ranch near Quesnel, are operated today by the fourth generation of the Jerome and Thaddeus Harper were among the original families. first drovers to realize the grassy slopes were ideal E for raising beef. They acquired property early on contributed by Diana French H O TO T O IB and their holdings grew into the legendary Gang CA R Ranch, once one of the largest cattle operations in

Canada. In 1863 they joined forces with the three von Volkenburgh brothers who owned slaughter houses, and the partners controlled the BC cattle market for the next twenty years. A typical Harper Zellers • Overwaitea • Liquor Store drive would be 500 steers, 50 cows and as many horses, all to be sold. They pastured the cattle and drove them to the slaughter houses as needed. Whether you’re camping or fishing, or hiking, Barkerville residents alone consumed around 1400 you don’t have to spend your time in the great head of cattle a year. outdoors experiencing The colonial government encouraged settlers great with a generous lease system and laws which discomfort. ensured the least possible interference in ranch Take a stroll affairs. By the mid-1860s ranches were strung like through our beads along the travelled routes to the gold fields. two levels Some of the first holdings were no more than a and we good garden plot but that was big enough. One guarantee you’ll find fellow at Soda Creek sold a crop of turnips for more than $3000. enough to Pennsylvania prospector Peter C. Dunlevy, the make your first to make a stake in the Cariboo gold fields, journey used his money to build roadhouses and later a perfect huge farm near the boom town of Soda Creek. Other ranches developed in combination with roadhouses. Herman Bowe’s Alkali Lake Ranch, believed to be the first beef operation in western Canada, began as a roadside inn on the Fraser www.botaniomall.com River trail. Hudson’s Bay Company factor Donald at Highway 20 & Highway 97 McLean (later killed in the Chilcotin War) set up Williams Lake, B.C. the Hat Creek Ranch and stopping place by the 250 392 4169 Page 10 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 11 WILLIAMS LAKE ORIGINALLY A SECWEPEMC VILLAGE - NAMED AFTER CHIEF WILLIAM September 22, 1862 he city of Williams Lake began as a Sec- Twepemc village, located at the northeast- No man can work the ern end of a lake where a number of trading mines hear exept he has some trails met. During the fur trading years, these capital. Surfis (surface) diging is … out. You trails were used by the fur brigades travelling must then sink 40 to 50 feet to the bead rock then between Fort Alexandria and the Hudson’s Bay‘s you may (reach) the bar it lies in. Hair thair is no use in a southern trading posts. The name came about man coming hear that cannot work at any thing. Not clerks after Roman Catholic Bishop Modeste Demers not townsmen nor traidsmen but sutch men as can swing a visited the village in 1852 and his reports refer to wooley cradle or chop ... . Not that thair is any ploughing or cra- “Chief William.” Thereafter the lake was called dling in B.Columbia for I have not seen grain Enough to keep a thresh- Williams Lake. ing mill for 2 days working for a distance of 700 miles along the fraser nor When gold was discovered in the Cariboo, a farm I would take as a gift. It is all hills mountains rocks exept some ... of prospectors poured like ants along the brigade poor land. trails heading for the goldfields. Thomas David- son established the first farm, roadhouse and Victoria November 16, 1862 store in Williams Lake in 1859 and the next year Gold Commissioner Phillip Nind chose the set- tlement as his headquarters. A year later, Tom Tel no clerks no city gentlemen com in fact too Menefee, one of the first to strike gold in the many has come if evry third son of the … gentlemen Cariboo, bought the Davidson holdings. By 1862, in Canada are sawing wood scraping streets and many when construction of the Cariboo Road began, other nasty jobs … A man who come hear must turn Williams Lake was well on its way to becoming his hand to evry thing.. the distribution centre for the Cariboo. Gustavus Wright and John C. Calbreath won Do not beleav evry thing yo read about this country the contact to build the road between Lillooet … it is the most wicked country in the world cursing and Soda Creek. Williams Lake was to be on the gambling drinking and some times shooting. I have saw route but when the contractors needed money some killed some dead an walked over gravs as uncon- and Menefee refused to lend them any, they re- serned as I have through a potatoes field at home. routed the road, bypassing the village. Nind and Many Indians maid drunk by whits and kill each other everyone else left for Barkerville, except Nind’s nor can I say half what I want to say. I cannot dwell any assistant, Constable William Pinchbeck. Pinch- longer beck and partner William Lyne acquired most of the land in the valley, established an Upper and a Lower farm where they raised meat, produce Sunday is no more respected than Monday. Hear all and prize winning wheat for sale to the miners. work gambling and drinking is seen to a grate extent. They had a sawmill, a gristmill and a distillery Whiskey 25 cents per glass it is paid as read as one cent where they made White Wheat Whiskey. they have not seen my 25 cents nor never will. In 1888, Pinchbeck borrowed money from Gang Ranch to buy out Lyne, but times were November 16, 1862 hard and he died in 1893 before he could replay I have saw many strang seens many strang faces of the loan. He was buried in what is now Pinch- evry nation sence I saw yours. beck Park by the Stampede Grounds. Thair is plenty of gold in Cariboo no doubt but it is Robert Borland bought the property and oper- onley one out of 100 can find it thair is onely 3 months ated a roadhouse at the Lower House and leased of sumer thair and it is rainey wether mostl.y You the Upper House land to Chilcotin pioneer Mike want about 5 or six hundred dolers at least to find Minton. The two farms slumbered along until the any gold. Pacific Great Eastern Railway arrived in 1919 and Williams Lake was reborn as a major cattle I have a claim on the far famed Williams Creek. shipping point. The Borland wheat field became Thair is gold in it if I can onely get gold anough to an instant town as entrepreneurs arrived by the get it out. I am determin to try though like thou- score and scurried about throwing up tents and sands I may not sucseed it is 600 miles from hear to shacks to house banks, stores, hotels and res- Wm. Creek. taurants. Almost sixty years after the first try, Joseph Halpenny Williams Lake became Cariboo’s main trading and service centre. It is still a major cattle shipping point. The Museum of the Cariboo Chilcotin in downtown Williams Lake focuses on the area’s rich ranching and rodeo heritage, and showcases the BC Cowboy Hall of Fame which honours the province’s working and rodeo cowboys, along with cowboy writers, poets and artists. contributed by Diana French Page 12 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 13

“CANNIBAL” ... CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 on three miles... where bag containing bullets we cooked our repast a attracted their atten- of voice, “Who owns ing, weary, and snow- la mode Cariboo.” tion and saved my dust, this shebang?” Step- blind; was unable to which being tied in the ping to the door and proceed. Helm left him, Some have reported old shirt pocket... was looking out, I saw a tall, and continued on for that Boone befriended not seen. They emptied cadaverous, sunken- the Fort. Sokolosky & co. in my pistol, gave it back eyed man standing over Antler Creek, although to me and told me to me, dressed in a dirty, Reaching the fort, he this seems unlikely ‘git’ and not look back. dilapidated coat and found it without an given Collinson’s account. As my road was down- shirt and drawers, and occupant. He then More probable is that hill, I lost no time.” moccasins so worn that returned to Burton, after passing Collinson they could scarcely be reaching him about on the road, Helm and A. Browning had just tied to his feet. Having dark. When out in the his associate met the arrived in Quesnelle invited him in and willows procuring fire- three men either at Forks the day after the inquired his business, wood, he heard the Keithley Creek or murders had been com- he told me substantially report of a pistol. Run- somewhere between mitted and saw the the following:— ning back into the there and Heck’s ferry. bodies brought in. He house, he found Burton After an exchange of gives the following illu- His name was Boone had committed suicide lead slugs, in which mination: Helm. In company with by shooting himself. the three gold-laden five others he had left Helm decided to try and miners were slayed, “The trail leading down Dalles City, Oregon, in find his way into Salt Helm & friend, buried the mountain to the October, 1858, intend- Lake valley. Cutting off, the greater portion of Forks of Quesnelle was ing to go to Camp well up in the thigh, gold and left the bodies a mile long and as I Floyed, Utah Territory. Burton’s remaining leg near the road. Boone came near... I saw on Having reached the (having already eaten Helm and his partner the trail... a procession Raft river they were the other) he rolled turned back to of men carrying three attacked by a party the limb up in an old Quesnelle Forks in stretchers. I found on of Digger Indians, with red flannel shirt, tied haste, intending to meeting them that they whom they maintained it across his shoulder, retrieve their cache at were carrying three a running fight for sev- and started. a later date. dead men. They were eral miles, but none of found on the trail the party was killed or Boone Helm eventu- Collinson continues: coming from Cariboo, severly wounded. Late ally made Salt Lake City robbed and murdered in the evening they where he was again “We stayed at the Forks for... each of them [had reached the Bannack driven out of town for his next day and saw the been] carrying bags of river, where they atrocious deeds. There murdered men brought gold... Who was the camped, picketed their is good reason to believe in. They had made a murderer, or who were horses near by, and that before Helm fled brave fight, every man’s the murderers? Every- stationed two sentinels. from that town, he mur- pistol (good six shoot- body said in whispers During the night one of dered two citizens in ers) was empty, and it was Boone Helm, a the sentinels was killed, cold blood. each man had a bullet gambler and cutthroat the savage who com- through his head. who had escaped the mitted the deed escap- From a letter pub- Boone Helm and his San Francisco Vigilance ing on a horse belong- lished in the Colonist chum killed these three Committee...” ing to the party. newspaper on April 4, men, took and hid the 1864 we learn that dust, and if no stranger “Pursuit down the trail (Eventually) … they Helm has made his has found it, it is there was determined on, and reached Soda Springs way to Cariboo. yet. For Boone left the $700 raised to pay the on Bear river... and country, I have proof of cost of pursuers. Boone, travelled up that river In July of 1862 the vil- that... I imagine, got wind of until they reached lain is reported to be all this, and escaped Thomas’s fork... where at Antler Creek, some “After leaving the across the line...” they found a comfort- sixteen kilometres from Forks, I … journeyed able cabin and went Barkerville over the on down, stopping at From Browning, we see into winter quarters. heights of Prosperpine Beaver Lake, Deep that the case was Their provisions soon Mountain. Here our Creek, and Williams viewed with grave sin- being all gone they story picks up in the Lake. I met Boone Helm cerity by the commu- commenced subsisting words of W. T. Collin- and his chum at Little nity of Quesnelle Forks on their horses, killing son, a miner of the era Bloody Run ...a few and that every effort one after another... who had the misfortune miles above Cook & was made to capture making snow-shoes out of meeting Boone that Kimble’s Ferry (now “CANNIBAL” CONTINUED ON of the hides of the fateful spring, and the Spence’s Bridge).” PAGE 14 horses... and started good luck of surviving towards Fort Hall. to tell the tale some 31 “The first thing I heard years later. was, The party kept together until they had got “Throw up your hands!” beyond Soda Springs, “Tommy Harvey, alias ‘Irish Tommy’ and where some had and looking up, I saw myself left Antler Creek become so exhausted the muzzle of a dou- with Sokolosky and two they could scarcely ble-barreled shot-gun Frenchmen for Forks travel. With their meat about four feet from Quesnelle. This was on supply getting low, my head. It took his or about the 18th of Helm and a man named partner about five min- July, 1862. We jour- Burton concluded not utes to cut my pack- neyed together until we to endanger their own straps, after taking my arrived at Keithley lives by waiting for the six shooter and purse. Creek, where the three wearied ones, so they The latter contained aforementioned gentle- left them behind. three Mexican dollars men, carrying on a mule and three British shil- and two horses about When they had reached lings. One of my old $32,000 in coarse gold, the site of Cantonment shirts contained a good stopped for dinner. Loring, Burton: starv- wad...” but a “small Harvey and I, continued Page 12 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 13

several crude cabins dead than alive; but a the town in such a state THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME Jessop with the presumptuous hearty meal of newly that he was comic relief ... CONT. FROM PG. 6 title of Fort Kootenay, baked bread and rash- for the troops. His hat rode to a larger camp just south of the U.S.- ers of bacon soon resus- was just a rim, his boots 100 MILE HOUSE of 14 to 15 lodges. In Canada border on the citated me.” tattered moccasins; his this camp was a Kute- Kootenay River. HBC There was a pack pants had no legs below nai Indian returning to trader John Linklater train leaving Fort the knees and not much he origin of 100 Mile House goes back the Tobacco Plains west greeted them warmly, Colville for B.C. the next above; and his shirt had even further than the well-known of the mountains. For a explaining that they day so John hustled the gold rush of the 1860s. Even before were only the second T gift of blankets, cloth- 20 miles north, reaching JESSOP CONT. ON PAGE 16 the discovery of gold at Barkerville, 100 Mile ing, a rifle, ammuni- party to pass through in House was known as Bridge Creek. It was tion and tobacco he his six winters at the agreed to act as guide. fort. The season was too During the night Jes- late for a direct route sop’s horses disap- to the Fraser, he told peared. After several them, so they would hours of searching a have to head south into reward was offered, the Washington Territo- and in short order ries. He had few pro- several young braves visions but could trade rode the “lost” horses them some grizzly meat into camp. Pack sad- and berries. By October dles were made from 15, after a few days’ the abandoned carts, rest, they were on their and the westward pro- way. cession continued, the Progress was steady easterners fully aware now. At the Pend Oreille that this chance meet- a popular camping and resting place for fur River half the party ing had likely saved headed north to Fort brigades travelling between Fort St. James them from starvation. Shepard in British and Kamloops via Bridge Lake and the North They followed the Columbia while Jessop, Thompson River. Waterton River into Duff and two others When fur trading gave way to gold fever what is now Waterton continued south and many of the fur company factors took up acre- National Park, where west toward the Colville ages along the Cariboo Road and built log the mountain freshness, Valley. Food ran out cabins and barns. Tom Hamilton and his wife, green grass and spar- again, but a handful of dried salmon skins Christine, were the first to settle legally at kling water gave their at an Indian camp saw Bridge Creek. Their house became a series of dejected spirits a lift. Their new-found exu- them through to the log cabins joined together in an ingenious way berance was spiced end of their journey. to make it more convenient and comfortable with the relief of having Jessop arrived at a set- for travelers. a guide and knowing tler’s house, “…more As the Hamilton home changed hands over their location for the the years more additions and alternations first time in months. were made. The late Marquis of Exeter pur- On October 2 they chased the property in 1912 and by the time zigzagged up Blakiston the house was razed by fire in 1937 it had Creek beneath cloud- become a great labyrinth of pantries, parlours covered peaks and and alcoves. crossed the South Koo- tenay Pass in falling The name 100 Mile House and all the other snow to reach a west- “mile designated” placed along the Cariboo ward flowing river. In Road were all derived from the Gold Rush six days they left the days when the only route from the Lower Rockies and arrived at Mainland and coast to the B.C. Interior was from Harrison to Lillooet. Lillooet came to be known as the starting point for the 300-mile trek to the Barkerville gold Xats’ull Heritage Village • Site 12, Comp. 62, RR #4 • Williams Lake • B.C. • V2G 4M8 • Canada fields. The number of miles away from Lil- looet designated stop- overs along the route. So 100 Mile House was 100 Miles from Lillooet, one-third of the way along the road to riches and considered a most suitable place to stop for the night.

compliments of the 100 Mile & District Histori- cal Society Page 14 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 15 “CANNIBAL” CONTINUED and two securities in made for his surren- Fort Yale on the Fraser it? I ate him up, of FROM PAGE 12 And on the 17th. 20 each; in default, der, but as nothing River, and handed over course.” Helm and bring him to suffer one month’s transpired, he was in due form to the cus- to justice for his evil “Boone Helm.- … was imprisonment.” released and three days tody of a Mr. Brandian, “The man who accom- deeds. Strangely, Boone brought before the afterwards the demand a special offecer sent panied him has not Helm did not go ‘across Police Magistrate yes- Boone defaulted and came.” across for the purpose been seen or heard of the line’, or at least, terday on a remand spent the next month by the U.S. Authori- since, and from what not for any length of from Monday last. The building and repairing By that time, Helm was ties...” while another we have been told of time. The Victoria Col- prisoner was defended the streets of Victoria gone and it wasn’t until BC paper reports “He this case-hardened vil- onist next reports him by Mr. Bishop, by in a chain gang. the spring of 1863 that was brought into the lain’s antecedents, we showing up in that city whom it was urged he was again arrested, city last night strongly are inclined to believe on October 13, 1862. that a prejudice had As another historian this time at Fort Yale in ironed. The first clue he told the truth. It is been created against echoes before me, “It the Fraser Canyon. of the detectives was said this is not the first “Boone Helm, said to him in the minds of the seems odd that in the the report that two time he has been guilty be a dangerous char- residents. The Police newspaper articles at W. T. Collinson says men had been seen of cannibalism.” acter, was arrested by officers present denied the time of Helm’s court this: trudging up the Frazer Sergeant Blake last that any such arrange- hearing in October river on foot... Helm’s Boone Helm was trans- evening.” ment existed so far 1862, that no reference “The next I saw of Helm conduct on the road ported from Victoria to as they were aware, is made to the suspicion was at Sumas in the is conclusive evidence Port Townsend where And on October 14th: and the Chief of Police that he was responsi- spring of 1864 (Collin- that he was aware he Collinson reports he swore that he was ble for the three deaths son has his year con- was being pursued. He “dug out of Townsend “ S u s p i c i o u s known as a bad char- in the Cariboo that fused, it was 1863). passed around the jail and once more Character.- Boone acter. The proprietor summer.” Victoria was He was along with a more populous set- made his way to the Helm, represented as of the Adelphi Saloon a popular wintering packtrain owned by tlements, or through hills, finally fetching up a bad character, was testified that he had place for miners who Dan Harris (alias Dirty them in the night time. in...” either Boise, taken into custody on procured drinks there, had ‘made their pile’, Harris)... Helm was on When overtaken, he Idaho or Bannock, Sunday night last, and then when pay surely there would have his way to get the dust was so exhausted by Montana. upon a charge of was requested, been those in Victoria hid at Quesnelle and fatigue and hunger drinking at saloons replied, who had heard of next day I got on my that it would have Here begins the final and leaving without Helm’s involvement in way to intercept Helm been impossible for chapter of Helm’s settling his score … “Don’t you know that the slayings at at Yale, him to have continued depravity. Having Sgt. Blake, who made I’m a desparate char- Quesnelle Forks? many hours longer… teamed up with the the arrest, said that acter?” From the Colonist: Upon being asked notorious Henry Plum- he understood the The Colonist reports what had become of mer, who was sheriff accused had killed a Sergeant Blake said that authorities held “...a notorious charac- his companion, he of Bannock and a thief man at Salmon River that people who knew Boone Helm in “safe- ter named Boon [sic.] replied with the and murderer on the (Florence), and fled to the accused best, were keeping for some three Helm, who it is said utmost sang froid:—” side, Boone and his British Columbia. afraid of him. The or four weeks, in the to have committed a friends raised the ire Helm was remanded Magistrate ordered expectation that a murder somewhere on “Why, do you suppose for three days in order Helm to find security charge would by pre- the Salmon River, has that I’m a — fool CANNIBAL ...CONTINUED ON to see what account he to be of good behavior ferred against him by been arrested by the enough to starve to PAGE 16 can then give of him- for the term of six our cousins on the other British Authorities at death when I can help self.” months, himself in 50, side, and a request

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CARIBOOWIDE CARIBOOWIDE DOT.COM DOT.COM Page 16 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 17 HORSEFLY PETER C. DUNLEVY Jessop Cannibal HISTORY SINCE 1858 FIRST TO STRIKE GOLD IN CARIBOO ... CONT. FROM PG. 13 ... CONT. FROM PG. 14 no sleeves. His jacket of the local communi- was traded long ago ties in Bannock and Vir- April 1859 Mining Records show the Cariboo’s first gold Peter C. Dunlevy, a miner from Pittsburgh, discovery ten miles above the mouth of the Horsefly River, for food so the whole ginia City to the point pre-dating the Barkerville gold rush. Many miners flocked Pa. is credited with making the first major outfit was covered with where a vigilante com- here, including the Chinese, and a small village rose rapidly gold strike in the Cariboo, in June 1859. a Scotch plaid. It was mittee was formed to to meet their needs. Early buildings included motels, store, November 5, Guy deal with the public post office and several cabins. Fawkes Day. John menace. After captur- Earlier that year Dunlevy and four compan- Thaddeus Harper obtained leases in the area starting Jessop had arrived in ing five of the gang- a second gold rush in 1887. He employed many men and ions were digging in the Fraser River, near the the frontier west. leaders, Helm amongst operated the first hydraulic mine. This town became known mouth of the Chilcotin, River, when a young The weather turned them, the Committee as “Harper’s Camp.” Other hydraulic mines also operated; Native named Tomaah came upon them. When too severe for the pack tried these men in the Horsefly Gold Mining Co. (R.T. Ward), Miocene Gravel he learned they were looking for gold, he told train and the Columbia secret. Mining Co. (R.H. Campbell), the Discovery Co. (Dan McCal- them where they could find some “as big as River froze, so while lum). The latter was leased by John B. Hobson for the C.P.R. beans.” Guided by a friend of Tomaah’s to Elijah Duff got a job On February 15, in 1892 and operated as the Horsefly Hydraulic Mine. It was splitting shakes for $60 1864, the Victoria Col- situated approximately 4.5 miles from Harper’s Camp, down the Little Horsefly River, Dunlevy’s party did a month plus room and onist writes “Hung the Mitchell Bay Road. The large cluster of buildings there indeed find nuggets as big as beans. board—not exactly the at Last.- The Notori- included bunk and cook houses, assay office, blacksmith El Dorado—indefatiga- ous Boon [sic.] Helm, and carpenter shops, and became known as “Horsefly.” This who so long suceeded mine ceased operation in 1902 because of difficulty break- In 1960 Dunlevy and his friends turned their ble Jessop struck south in escaping the ends ing up the compacted gravel. attention to operating another kind of gold 250 miles to Walla Walla, then on to Fort of justice, has been Times were hard but many miners stayed on ranching mine, roadhouses, on the brigade trail in the Vancouver and finally, lynched, with twelve or trapping. The first actual family in the area was the Beaver Lake and Mud Lake area. When the on New Year’s Day, others, at Bannock W.P. Hall family from Iowa. The first documented birth was Cariboo Road was completed, Dunlevy moved Mines.” Minnie Hazel Walters, daughter of Harry Walters who wed 1860, reached Victoria to Soda Creek, the bustling southern terminus on Vancouver Island. In Miss Alva Youngker in 1895. The first automobile arrived in for river boat traffic on the Fraser River. He 1910 and was owned by Alec Meiss, the local hotel operator, eight months he had most famous for his peg leg and his pet bear! acquired a store and hotel in town, and a 1000 traveled over 3000 Epilogue ... acre farm on the bench above where he raised miles, though not all on With the closure of the mine at Horsefly and the eventual His grave, marked by dwindling of the site, the residents of Harper’s Camp voted cattle and produce until his death in 1904. He British soil as he had a well-kept metal head- to change their town site name to Horsefly. is buried at St. Joseph’s Mission cemetery. hoped. He was a tem- pered man now, one of stone and flanked on The oldest existing building today is the Tommy Peterson singular mettle, unique; either side by two of cabin built in 1902, which has been moved to its present site Little remains of the city of Soda Creek, an Overlander. The the ‘oreniest’ at the local museum. Extensive photographic and archival cutt-throats that ever records are stored there, along with an interesting variety but the Dunlevy Ranch is still in operation. grandest adventure of graced a gallows, sits of local artifacts. Owned and operated by the Kaufman family, his life was over, but the modern operation is about three times there were many chal- on a little knoll Present day Horsefly is a diversified community with a overlooking the town. its original size. The water rights to Dunlevy lenges to come. forestry, tourism and ranching based economy. Fisheries These five were Duff joined the Amer- and Oceans operates a spawning channel in the village area Spring, taken up by Peter Dunlevy, is still a planted there, plenty where sockeye salmon return each August & September to ican-British Boundary water source for the homesite. deep, on January 14, reproduce. The Horsefly River watershed is highly rated Commission that winter contributed by Diana French 1864, by the vigilan- fish habitat and is very well suited for canoes, kayaks, etc. and the following sumer tes who tried them There are many recreational possibilities and accommoda- worked as a transit man. in secret and hanged tion available ranging from modern rooms at resorts, B & In the spring of 1861 them in public from B’s or the motel, to full service camping, to back country he was joined by is a cross beam in an adventure tours. The village is served well with general two brothers R.H. and uncompleted building stores, service station with licensed mechanic, hardware Thomas Duff and began and antique stores, cafe and bakeries, churches, library, running pack trains while in the centre of town. and a neighborhood pub. by Chris Gruhs JESSOP CONT. ON PAGE 20 Page 16 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 17

To plan your Cariboo Chilcotin Coast visit the C.T.A. at 118A North 1st Ave., Williams Lake, B.C. V2G 1Y8; tel: 1-800-663-5885; fax: (250) “Dear Mother, Here I 392-2838; or e-mail: [email protected] am in Victoria! Have seen For free information on additional provincial travel & reservations call the “Elephant” as cariboo is Tourism BC at 1-800- HELLO BC or visito www. HelloBC.com called here: bought into a claim on Lightning Creek, got “played out” and arrived here per Steamer yesterday evening in the remnants of my clothes and without a cent in my pocket. I had to leave my watch in deposit for my Steamboat fare, as I left Cari- boo without a change of clothes, here I am without a shirt to my back; what remains being only a collar and the tattered front; in a dilapidated coat and with one boot between two feet and all things considered in a pretty respectable plight to present myself at Church; in fact having rather a wild appearance for beside my rags my hair has not been cut since I left England in May.” “It is now between nine and ten o’clock here and I reckon you are at dinner: I often picture to myself what you are all doing at home; and many a time when I have been cold, hungry, wet and tired, my thoughts have centered on a quite cup of tea at Paddington: to walk in and see you all just then would have been the highest pinnacle of happiness; of course to make it complete it must be in the short days with closed curtains and a comfortable fire and then to my ideas there is something superlatively cosy about it.” Harry Guillod, Introductory letter to his Mother

“We amused ourselves with the gun on the way; I shot a squirrel – my first shot with that gun; and George got several small birds and missed more. We camped and cooked the squirrel, which we did not find anything extraordinary.” digital Harry Guillod imaging “Four or five miles further on our way we came upon another grave, with a board over it, on which was written, ‘William S__, aged 23.’ This saddened us, for we specialists recognised the name as that of one of our fellow-voyageurs from Panama…We found that it had only just occurred…and was owing to his incautious use of fire- arms. On arising from his night’s rest on some blankets (under which he had placed a cocked revolver before sleeping), he had in drawing it from its position, caught the trigger in the folds. By the discharge of the weapon he was shot dead instant- ly…Accidents with fire-arms are of frequent occurrence in this country, through the inexperience of their possessors.” W. Champness, 1862 Page 18 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 19

I am going, William and John Halpenny together, 4 THE HALPENNY LETTERS more men liked joined our party so out of 21 of the Barkerville Fiction CONTINUED FROM 5 Ottawa party thair onley 8 going over the moun- For the most part, law and cart or more if thair means allowed them but tain. Thair is all of some companeys going over. I and order were well main- one is sufisant for too men. Each man provides 200 think about 50 shall remain in the Saskatchewan tained in Barkerville during the gold rush, but on occa- lbs of flour, 50 lbs of pemican -- that is Bufflow -those staying are chiefly city men. The trip is too hard for any one but a stout robust person. We sion Judge Begbie lived up to meat choped up dried and the tallow mixed and his reputation as “The Hang- some times had to waid through 3 or 4 feet of milled in to bags maid of the skin of 2 bushel bags ing Judge”. In Moses, Me one of which will weigh 224 lbs. This is very dis- water for a distance of 50 or 60 rods -ford rivers and Murder! and The Doc- gustfull loocking food mixed with the hare of the and creeks. tor’s Apprentice (from which animal and grass. It has been maid by Indians on The mornings is very cold hear some days we the following selection is the planes and choped up on the ground acounts ware … coats mostly all day. Thair is no large taken) author Ann Walsh re- for its bad appearance, never the less you must (tree) trunks, here the principal wood is poplar tells the exciting story of a murdered miner, an oddly shaped gold nugget and the take it … To cross the planes you may bring some and willow in some places so thick that you could trial and eventual punishment of the convicted man. dried ham, but it wont keep long 3 or 4 lb of tea not go through it and some places miles without each, some dried apples, some suger, some ginger a twig. The ground is strewed with Buflow carkus or peperment - it is good for giving bad water a fla- and bones. Your ears sometime … with wolves fol- August 8, 1867 vour which we met in abundance stagnate and salt lowing our tail to pick up crums whare we camp. I heard the heavy trap door of the gallows lakes and some time none good or bad. Each cart Thay are large white … looking . I shot some of crash against its supports, heard the crowd brought a water keg we kept it filled with water. them. gasp, heard a woman cry out. This is onley required in the commencement of the The black snake and the adr are the onely rep- “It is done,” said a man’s voice. “He is dead, journey. We find to mutch in the later part. tiles we saw the aders are plenty in Minesota but hanged by the neck as sentenced by Judge not in the HB Teratory. I killed one with a club The things we provide … at the highest figer some shot them we saw som Antilope the Buflow Begbie.” from 8 lbs to 10 lbs starting for an oxen cart with … in large drove of 1000 or more. You must shoot out a nale nor a bolt of iron of any sort on it the The August heat covered me, thick as wool the leader then thay devide until the train pass. harness without a buckel or a stitch in it. It been blankets, and I could feel the sweat standing I wish I could hear from you I cannot tell you to made solely of green buflow skin. Our cart covred out on my face. The others who had come to (write) to me for I dont know yet whair I shal bee. over with cotton on a piece of raw hide tied to the watch the hanging had not noticed me sitting You need not Espect a letter from me untill I reach oxes horns as a ranes to guide him and a stick in under a tree, hidden by its branches. Ma and caraboo and I dont know when that shal bee. If we our hand for a whip. Pa had forbidden me to come here today, but get gold in the head waters of the Fraiser we will something, I knew not what, had drawn me to We mounted the carts and went a days drive a stop for a time on it and go down … our oxen will distance of 30 miles to a place called White Horse be food for us. the Richfield courthouse. planes. Thair we camped for half a day formed our I am yours dutifully and affectionately untill Now I hid --and listened. Although I could selves into companeys. The each companey went death not see was was happening, I could hear by the name of the place the party was from. Ours Joseph T. Halpenny everything. I desperately wished that I had was the Ottawa company. Each man was of librty obeyed my parents, that I had stayed safely at To his Parents sisters and Friends to join what companey he liked and each com- home. I wanted to leave, to flee down the road paney formed a captain and the captain of evry towards Barkerville, but I could not stand. I company met in the eavening after camping and maid rules for the next days travel. We camped in could not move. From behind me, someone spoke. at about one quarter of the I jumped, and my heart began to beat rap- distance to Edmington ... our idly. Who was calling my name? I leaned my “ Read the complete set of Halpenny letters at face against the pine tree, feeling the rough- guide ... stole a duble barl gun www.barkerville.com/letters The Halpenny let- ness of its bark against my cheek, and put to kill game, we nevr saw him ters are a true connection to the brave struggles both my arms around its trunk. I clung tightly since. We ware alone than with of early Canadian pioneers who endured terrible to the tree, refusing to look at the unseen hardships, starvation and desparate loneliness. person who spoke to me from the shadows of out a guide on a baren trackless Their adventurous spirits were the essential fibre the forest. of the fledgling nation that became Canada. land.” “Who is it?” I asked, my voice so low that I could scarcely hear the words I spoke. “Who a sircle, carts close to gether and tents out side. is there?” Pitched our tents at 6P.M. If we found water let our cattle out untill sundown tuck them in to midle “A friend,” he said, and laughed.... of the ring til morning but a centry of 6 men … for the knight. Our companey was composed of 11 men which I repsent in the ring. It increased to 21 men 11 carts, in all were 100 carts we hired a half breed to guide us …

We came to Carlton house at about one quarter of the distance to Edmington. Our guide left us stole a duble barl gun to kill game, we nevr saw him since. We ware alone than with out a guide on a baren trackless land. We must go on. To go back is ucless. Our party tuck the lead the rest in the rare struck a norwesterly course … After 7 days hard travling through a very rough prarie we saw the banks of the Saskatchewan. In 4 hours we gained the fort hired a nother guide who brought us faithfully to Edmington house. Hear we have to hire another guide to take us to Jaspr house whare we shal have to get another to take us to caraboo. Hear we have to abandon our carts and pack our animals to cross the mountains. We traded guns old close carts for more horses. Money is no use hear. We can take our oxen across the mountains and down the Frasur on to caraboo … It will take us 30 days yet to Caraboo. We … 6 weeks … this fall. Som will go no further than hear. The Ottawa men staie hear the … remain hear too.

Page 18 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 19  The Halpenny Letters 

his letter from Joseph Halpenny ces was paid and allowing me 10$ per day for was written by him in the winter taking charge of the claim as thay wair not of 1867, near the end of his time very expert miners themselves. On those con- T ditions I took charge and commenced runing searching for gold in British Columbia. a tunnel at the end of four weeks we struck Expressing tangible disappointment at his gold. Worked on for 3 days longer and tuck continuing bad luck he is longing for home out $300. Then the frost forsed up our pumps but feels unable to return empty handed. and we could work no longer. So we must quit Nonetheless he is a man still strong in untill spring. heart, with profound spiritual conviction This is the first claim I have ever had that I always taking the honourable, if not more found gold in. It is time after nearly five years difficult path. In this brief letter, after no faithfull serching. I have spaired no pains, correspondence for five months, he relates incountered every thing, endured all the hard- an incredible experience of a narrow ships of a miners life. Spent nothing foolishly, escape from a freezing death when he and disapointed in all most everything, up to the his companions encounter a life saving fire time we found the gold, and then I was disap- burning “fresh and lively” in the wilder- pointed. I was in hopes the weathe r would ness. have kept fine untill we would have taken out some more or at least for another week so Dear friends at home: that I would have been able to have sent some home. Time has swept fastly by cence I sent you a This is what has kept me from writing. So letter -allmost five months. Forgive me it was long I wanted to send something or go home. not carlessness, nor has fleeting time born This is all I have being trying to acomplish and with it the fond recollections of parents and could not suckseede but the way seems britr. sisters with that dear old home which I long I hope that another sumer will finish my wan- for to see and will if the lord spares me. … you dering and with the helpe of the lord see you ask why am I silent so long. I shall tell you the all ere another winter pases. I am afraid to truth and the truth onley that I might wright make promises. It is to you I was wating for some better news to hard if thay cannot be send you than I have been sending. ful filled but I have a resolution formed and I was on french Creek all sumer in big bend … firmly to meet you I prospected faithfully sunk three shafts to the all next fall if god is bead rock and found no gold. Then I went willing. a building houses and putting in machinery in claims. The grater portion of this work I had HALPENNY 1867 to take what is here called bead rock . That ...CONTINUED ON PG. 20 is to take your pay when it comes out of the claim. At home it would be called giving time for payment. I worked in this way untill November the weather was getting cold and people com- menced going down. But I … when I went down to go home I tryed to collect some money. I could not doo it every one com- plained of hard times and verey little gold comming out so I must keep on doooing some- thing. A man who owed me for putting in his pumps asked me if I would buy an intrest in his claim. I told him I would if I got a good bargin. I bought the claim for five hundred dollers after all espen- Page 20 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 21

JESSOP ... CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20 mining at Pierce City. Duff 1868 he married Marga- In March 1901 John settled in Washington ret Fausette who arrived Jessop, adventurer and State. in Victoria on the brideship teacher, was walking Jessop reached the gold- Tynemouth., and together up Government Street they took an active part in from his office when he fields of the Cariboo the While negotiating his road next spring, but like many the Methodist Church. In suffered a massive heart contract north of Clinton others he retreated in debt. 1872 he became the first attack. He died on the Journalism kept him in Superintendent of Schools street, and it’s likely he in 1862, Gustavus Wright and bed and board for a time for the province, where his would have preferred that, his partners in the newly formed while he helped found the early adventures served dying on the trail as it Douglas Navigation Company, had Times in New Westminster him well in the require- were, with his boots on. It quietly arranged construction of a steam- and the Press in Victoria, ment to visit each school was fitting for a trailblazer, driven sternwheel riverboat at Soda Creek, but both had financial dif- yearly. He was effective an Overlander. south of Fort Alexandria, the northern terminus ficulty and had to be sold. and popular in this ... from “This Hard Land” of Wright’s contract and of the road proper. By 1861 he was ready to appointment. Perhaps he by Richard Thomas Wright. become a teacher again. was too trusting, for in Further information on the In May of 1863, Wright penned a note to Col. Moody: Like everything he tackled 1878 he was forced to journeys of Overlanders My Dear Colonel, resign, a victim of a change will be found in Over- he was determined. We have accomplished what we undertook, the building of a steamer on in government. For a landers, Richard Thomas When the free school the upper Fraser and made successfully, a couple of years Jessop Wright, Winter Quarters system was introduced on Press, Williams Lake, trip from Fort Alexandria to the Mouth returned to newspaper Vancouver Island in 1864, 2001 of Quesnelle, and down the river to Soda with the Colonist, until Jessop was appointed prin- Creek… the little boat performs to our 1883 when the winds of cipal of Victoria schools. As perfect satisfaction, the river much better political fortune blew his such he was instrumental than anticipated… We shall make two trips way again and he was in framing the first Educa- a week… We have reduced the price of appointed Provincial Immi- tion Act of B.C. In March of gration Agent. freight from 5cts. to 2 1/2 cts. From Quesnelle Mouth to Barkerville the trail worsened considerably and the accounts and manifest condition of returning miners spoke of the deplorable conditions. Traveler, W. Champness, recounts the following story. Whilst waiting here we saw two packers return from the mines. One of them car- ried with him a bell, such as is fastened to the foremost mule of a pack. Sus- pecting some disaster, we inquired after their animals, and received for reply a state- ment that they had started hence to Antler Creek with a train of thirty mules, not one of which had reached the destination, all having fallen down, at different places, into the precipitous ravines, along the perpen- HALPENNY 1867 dicular sides of which the narrow trails led ...CONTINUED FROM PG. 19 them. Sometimes a single such stumble William Halpenny is involves a fall of a thousand feet. This, still in big bend pros- to an animal burdened with three hundred pecting. He did nothing pounds weight of goods, is, of course, cer- untill late in the fall. tain death. Yet many of the poor creatures He had no money and I do not die immediately after falling, but had to keep him untill linger awhile in horrible torture, far beyond he got work which was the possibility of aid or access by their not easley to be had. owners, who are compelled to leave them to He was living with me I die, and to suffer the utter loss of the think for three months property fallen with them. before he got anything to do. It costs consid- erable to keepe a man for that lenght of time hear. I had to pay from $2.00 to $1.50 per lb. for bacon $2.50 for tea, from $1.00 to 50 cents per lb. for flour and every thing elce in pre- portion. I have had considerable work to do since I caim to this coun- try but thair is no use in complaining -it is hard to see a friend want in a straing land. Big bend is a rough mountainous country half incircled by the Columbia River. On going in the spring we

CONTINUED ON PAGE 21 Page 20 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 21 thay would ask me not out how the fire came beleave. Tell me what this may find you all in HALPENNY 1867 to go so fast. Finally one thair I have not spaice thay fenians is dooing. I good helth which god in ... CONTINUED FROM PG. 20 of them said he could go here to describe it would lik to have been his tender mercys had no further. I toild him I minutley but after we with the brave fellows kindly bestowed on me. each took 100 lbs of pro- stop thair was onely to thought I saw the woods wair warmer I went that met them when visions a distance of 60 perish. It soon git dark Joseph Halpenny to a head. He called again back. The others would thay came to Canada. miles over the highest and seemed posable and his parents and sisters a litttle further and we not come with me to Let me know in purticu- peeks of some of those not yet across tossing tumbelled through some find the 4 behind. The lar how you are all get- ...visit our website: mountains. We judged through that dept of srubery. Never was night became lighter so ting along. Now I must www.barkerville.com/ the snow was from 30 snow thay commenced brush more welcome a I could see our tracks. I bid you good bye for letters to read the com- to 100 feet deepe. Thair stay behind -we com- fiew … furthre on we found the 4 standing in the preasant hoping that plete set of 12 letters writ- was a grate number was menced to get further ten by J.T. Halpenny wair in the woods but a lump 3 trying to hold forced to leave thair and further apart. Soon on going to make a fire up one thay wair glad load behind. I left Sea- we could only hear a we found that the men to see me and said thay more with 20 stout faint respond to our call be hind had the axe and would try to walk to matches. This was still camp if I would carry I cannot tell you the sensation fearfull -we loocked for him. Thay wair hold- “that crept over me at those a big tree to shelter us ing up -he could hardly from the falling snow speak when I get him words. To remain thair was when one said I am on my back -still he sertain death ... chilled allmost to death kept trying to curse and I cannot stand it mutch swair let me down -I loocking men. Onley 5 and latter not a sound. It longer we may as well might as well go to hell of us brought our loads get allmost jet black the stop under any tree we now as any other time. through so you may man in frunt threw him meet. I went a little dis- We got all to camp the judge that I am not yet selfe down declaring he tance from him and saw next day got to …built mutch the worse of the could not see nor could a light -told them -they a boat crossed the lake mountain life. go no further. Thair was said it was imposable no a distance of 100 miles. Coming out over those 3 of us and 4 behind. one had been over since I saw John Halpenny in mountains thair was I cannot tell you the the snow fall. I went to Westminster on my way seven of us in com- sensation that crept over paney. In one day we me at those words. To I am chilled allmost to tryed to cross over one remain thair was sertain of those bald mountains death and was a sroud “death I cannot stand it a distance of 7 miles of snow. I must never mutch longer in order to get into the see parents sisters nor thick woods on the other friends any more. Those the place and found a down -he is well -he is a cide of the summit to wair my thoughts at that nise fire down 10 feet little lame and I feel he stop overknight. Com- moment when I started in the snow a large tree will always be so. ming up towards the to the frunt and asked for a roof and snow Thair is grait rumers top the snow had fallen them if thay could follow for a walls not a brees hear about gold being about 10 feet deep and me. Thay was both Eng- could come thair. The found in Canada let me still kept poring down lishmen thay said thay fire was fresh and lively know if it is true for thicker and larger than I would follow me untill nevr was fire more wel- I have lerned to know have evr saw. We had thay would fall to rise come to human beings. that thay half of a gold no track. Som began no more and kept limp- We never could find storey is a nough to to get tired and stay ing through the snow. behind. The stronger I fancy I get stronger ones kept in frunt brak- and could keep on untill ing the snow and incu- daylight now and then riging them on -for to

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as well as your faces, rubbing them all over with a coarse cloth. If you cannot wash thus every morning, pray do so once a week.” • “Wholesome food is needful for your health. Buy the most strengthening. Pieces of fresh beef and mutton go the farthest. Eat plenty of fresh salt with food; it prevents disease.” • In the present age, when education is within the reach of all, both rich and poor, every lady will endeavour to become, not only well educated, but accomplished. It is not, as some will assert, a waste of time or money. Not only the fingers, voice, and figure are improved, but the heart and intellect are refined, and the happiness greatly increased. • Do not accept an invitation to visit any place of public amusement, with a gentleman with whom you are but slightly acquainted, unless there is another lady also invited. You may, as a young lady, go with a relative or your fiancee, without a chaperon, but not otherwise. • In the theatre ... to flirt a fan, converse in whispers, one but an excessively ill-bred person will ging of shoulders, raising of eyebrows or hands. indulge in extravagant gestures of merriment or admi- allow her attention to wander from the ration, laugh loudly or clap your hands together, are all person with whom she is conversing. • Wear no jewellery in the street excepting your watch excessively vulgar and unlady-like. Never turn your head and brooch. Jewellery is only suited for full evening dress, to look at those seated behind you, or near you. No truly polite lady ever breaks in upon a conversation or when all the other details unite to set it off. If it is real, it is • If you return at an early hour from an y place of amuse- Ninterrupts another speaker. too valuable to risk losing in the street, and if it is not real, ment, invite your escort into the house upon your arrival • Never use the phrases, “What-d-ye call it,” “Thing- no lady should wear it. Mock jewellery is utterly detest- there, and lay aside your bonnet and shawl. If you leave ummy,” “What’s his name,” or any such substitutes for a able. them on, he will conclude that you expect him to shorten proper name or place. If you cannot recall the names you • There is no accomplishment more graceful, pleasing, his visit. If it is late when you reach home, he will probably wish to use, it is better not to tell the story or incident healthy, and lady-like, than that of riding well. To ride well decline your invitation to enter. If, however, he accepts it, connected with them. is undoubtedly an admirable qualification for a lady, as she do not lay aside your shawl, and he will soon leave you. • In conversation, avoid affection; it is the sure test of a may be as feminine in the saddle as in the ball room or • A lady in the street, boulevard or park may not be saluted deceitful, vulgar mind. home circle. by a gentleman, unless he has received a slight bow from • Avoid restless movements either with the hands or feet; • The best way to overcome selfishness and rudeness you the lady; he may then raise his hat with the hand farthest to sit perfectly quiet, without stiffness, easily, yet at the sometimes meet with on public occasions, is, by great from the lady, bow respectfully and pass on, not under any same time almost motionless, is one of the surest proofs of politeness and disinterestedness on your part; overcome consideration pausing to speak, unless the lady pauses in high-breeding. evil with good, and you will satisfy your own conscience, her promenade. • Observation, reading, and study, will form the ground- and, perhaps, touch theirs. • Ladies walking on the street are not expected to recog- work for good powers of conversation, and the more you • “Light and sunshine are needful for your health. Get nize gentlemen or friends on the other side of the road; to read, study, and see, the more varied and interesting will all you can; keep your windows clean. Do not block them do so would necessitate habits of observation inconsistent be your topics. up with curtains, plants, or bunches of flowers; - these last with ladylike repose. • Never gesticulate when conversing; it looks theatrical, poison the air, in small rooms.” • “Pure water is needful for your health. Wash your bodies The Ladies book of Etiquette, Fashion and Manual of and is ill-bred; so are all contortions of the features, shrug- Politeness Page 22 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Summer 2001 The Gold Rush Trail Journal ~ British Columbia, Canada Page 23

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