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A B ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty

A B ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd tours 677 Rishikesh 420 travel to/from 681-2 673 1213 travel within 682 Ashram 777 Aihole 886 Sivananda Vedanta air travel 1175-6, 1177-9 Dhanwantari Ashram 927-8 575-6 Sri Aurobindo Ashram 1014 Ajanta 772-5, 773, 8 Sri Ramana Ashram 1013 Ajmer 135-9, 136 553-64 Akbar 1091 Asvem 823 Akbar’s Fort 379 ATMs 1168 Akbar’s Mausoleum 357 Attari-Wagah 220, 221 Akbar’s Palace 137-8 Auli 428 A 938-42, 939 Aurangabad 764-8, 766 Academy of Fine Arts 447 Alchi 266 Aurangzeb 350, 1091 accommodation 1160-3, see also Allahabad 377-81, 378 Aurobindo Bhawan 447 individual locations Alleppey, see Alappuzha Auroville 1021 language 1196, 1200 Almora 437-8 autorickshaws 1182 activities 1163, see also individual altitude sickness 1193 avian flu 1191 activities Alwar 129-30 376-7 Adalaj Vav 682 Amar Mahal 227-8 ayurveda 35, 36, 972 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 137 Amaravathi 915 Alappuzha 938 Adina Masjid 482 Amarnath 231 Bengaluru 842 Adivasi Mela 591 Amber Fort 124-5 Calangute 814 Adivasis 667, 668, 1104, see also Chowara 931 tribal peoples amchi 321 amoebic dysentery 1192 courses 36, 707, 814, 842-3 786-7 77 Amritsar 212-20, 214 576-8, 577 814 Ana Sagar 136 Agatti Island 979 Ayurved University 707 Anandgarh Sahib 211 Agonda 831-2 Jaipur 113 Anandpur Sahib 211 Agra 347-65, 350, 360 Kalpetta 972-3 Andaman Islands 53, 1061-78, 1062 accommodation 358-61 Khajuraho 629 53, 891-918, 893 activities 347-57 Kochi 955-6 climate 891 drinking 363 936 festivals & events 892 emergency services 363 928 food 892 entertainment 363 Mamallapuram 1005 highlights 893 food 361-3 Mysore 855-6 internet resources 892 internet services 363 159 medical services 363 travel seasons 891 shopping 363 Anegundi 881-2, 877 sights 347-57 animals, see individual animals B tourist offices 364 Anjuna 818-21, 818 backwaters, 7, 940-1, 978, 7, 18 tours 357-8 Anthropological Museum 666 Badami 884-6 travel to/from 364 Araku Valley 913 Badrinath 429-30 travel within 364-5 Arambol 824-5 Baga 813-18, 815 352-3, 356-7 architecture 1134-8 Bageshwar 440 1096, 1112 area codes 1172 Bagore-ki-Haveli 158 672-82, 674-5 Arjuna’s Penance 1003 1090 accommodation 677-8 arts 19, 1139-45, see also individual Bahmani Tombs 890 festivals & events 677 arts, handicrafts Baijnath 330 food 678-80 564-70 baksheesh 1169 internet access 681 Arunachaleswar Temple 1012 Bala Qila 129 medical services 681 Ashoka, Emperor 1086, 1087 Balasore 608 shopping 680-1 ashrams 35-6 Banbassa 441 sights 673-7 Anasakti Ashram 439 Bandhavgarh National Park 662-4 tourist offices 681 Brahmavidya Mandir Ashram 777 865 414 Bangalore, see Bengaluru 000 Map pages Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission Bangladesh border crossings 484, 000 Photo pages 940 578, 583, 1176-7 Prasanthi Nilayam 918 Bara Imambara 370-1 Baripada 607 Berhampore 481 Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 951 1214 Barkul 602 berries 793 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1008 Baroda 684-7, 686 Betla (Palamau) National Park 525 birth 1102 Basgo 263-4 Bhagsu 327 Bishnupur 479 Basheshar Mahadev 296 Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh 786 Blackbuck National Park 690 Basilica of Bom Jesus 808 Bhaja Caves 783 boat tours 18, 388, 567, 709, 812, bathrooms 1161, 1172 Bhandardara 763 814, 940 Bavikonda 913 bhang lassi 1167 boat travel 1177, 1180 INDEX beaches 10, 17, 10 Bharatpur 126-8, 127 Bodhgaya 516-21, 518 Bodhi Tree 517 Agonda 831-2 Bharmour 336 Bodoland 558 Andaman Islands 1072-3, 1074-5 Bhavnagar 688-90, 689 B Bollywood 734, 1141 Anjuna 818-19 Bhedaghat 660 Bombay, see Arambol 824 291 Bomdila 568 Asvem 823 Bhimbetka 639 books 1080, 1141, see also literature Baga 813 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 608 art 1144 Benaulim 828 Bhojpur 638-9 architecture 1136 Calangute 813 Bhongir 909 cinema 1141 Candolim 812 Bhopal 633-8, 634 Cavelossim 831 dance 1140 Bhubaneswar 587-93, 588 Chapora 821 food 1114, 1115, 1116, 1117, 1118, 1120 Bhuj 710-13, 710 Colva 828 health 1190 Bhujodi 713 Diu 693 history 1084, 1089, 1091, 1092, Bhuntar 296-7 1095, 1096, 1098, 1099 Gokarna 874 Bhuri Singh Museum 334 Life of Pi 922 Coast 780 Bhutan border crossings 484, 505, 1177 music 1140 Mamallapuram 1005 Bhutia Busty Gompa 490 politics 1082 Mandrem 823 Bhutnath Mandir 294 religion 1107, 1108, 1109, 1111, 1112 Mangalore 870 Bibi-qa- 764-5 wildlife 1149 Morjim 823 bicycle travel, see cycling border crossings Palolem 832 Bangladesh 484, 578, 583, 1176-7 Samudra 931 Bidar 889-90 Bhutan 484, 505, 1177 Vagator 821 50, 506-23, 508 climate 506 Nepal 399, 441, 484, 505, 515, Varca 831 1177, 1178 festivals & events 507 Varkala 932 Pakistan 220, 1177, 1179 food 507 Visakhapatnam 911 Botanical Gardens () 456 highlights 508 bears 882 Braganza House 827-8 internet resources 507 Beatles, the 420, 421 Temple 139 travel seasons 506 begging 520 Brajeshwari Temple 329 Bijapur 886-9, 887 977-9 Brihadishwara Temple 1025-6 Belur 863 Bikaner 193-8, 194-5 Brindavan Gardens 861 Benaulim 828-31 Billing 330 British rule 445, 1092-6 Natural History Museum 492 Bir 330 Brokpa people 267 Bengaluru 837-50, 840, 842, 844 birdwatching 24, 1148-9 Buddha Museum 398 accommodation 843-5 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary Buddha Smriti Park 510 608 activities 842-3 Buddhism 317, 910, 1111-12, 1136, see drinking 847-8 Goa 799 also Dalai Lama entertainment 848 559-61 meditation 35, 36-7 food 845-7 Keoladeo Ghana National Park Buddhist temples, see also gompas, 128-9 internet access 848 monasteries, stupas medical services 849 Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary 709 Bodhgaya 517 shopping 848 944 Ellora 769-71 sights 840-2 Mangalajodi 602 Himalayan Nyinmapa Buddhist Temple 304 tourist offices 849 Mumbai 731 Kalachakra Temple 317 tours 843 Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary 683 budget 14 travel to/from 849-50 569 buffaloes 873 travel within 850-1 559 Sanjay National Park 756 Bundi 147-51, 148 000 Map pages Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary bus travel 1180-1 000 Photo pages 699-700 business hours 1163 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 210-11 Bylakuppe 869 C Chandipur 608 Christianity 1112-13 Calangute 813-18, 814 Chandor 827-8 churches & cathedrals 1215 Calcutta, see Kolkata Chandragiri Fort 917 Basilica of Bom Jesus 808 Calico Museum of Textiles 673 Chang La 273 Church of Our Lady of the Calicut, see Kozhikode Channakeshava Temple 863 Immaculate Conception camel safaris 11, 24, 11 chapati 1115 (Panaji) 801 Church of Our Lady of the Bikaner 196 Chapora 821-3, 821 Immaculate Conception Hunder 270 895 (Puducherry) 1014 INDEX Jaisalmer 190-1 Chauragarh 643 Church of Our Lady of the Mount Pushkar 140 cheetahs 1149 808-9 camels 142, 198, 11 Cheluvanarayana Temple 861 Church of St Francis of Assisi 808 C-D Candolim 812-13 Chemrey 273 Notre Dame de Anges 1014 Cannanore, see Kannur 985-1000, 986-7 Sacred Heart Church 1014 Cape Comorin, see accommodation 992-4 Sé Cathedral 807-8 car travel 1181 activities 991 St Francis Church 953 caste system 1103 drinking 996 St Stephen’s Church 1052-3 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Egmore 985-8, 992-3, 994-5, 990 cinema 1081, 1140-1, see also Cauvery Delta 1025 entertainment 996 Bollywood Cavelossim 831 festivals & events 992 Cinque Island 1071-2 caves food 994-6 City Museum (Ahmedabad) 677 Ajanta 772-5, 8 internet access 997 climate 14, see also individual Aurangabad 765 medical services 997 locations Badami 884-5 shopping 996-7 climate change 1152-3 Bhaja 783 sights 985-91 clothes 1102 Bhimbetka 639 tourist offices 998 Cochin, see Kochi Edakal 973 tours 991-2 Coimbatore 1048-50, 1049 Elephanta Island 756 travel to/from 998 Colva 828-31 Ellora 769-72 travel within 1000 communal conflict 1081, 1107 Karla 783 Connaught Place 75, 72-3 Lohani 657 Triplicane 993, 995, 990 consulates 1164-5 Mawsmai 582-3 Chennamangalam 967 Coonoor 1051 Pachmarhi 643 Cherrapunjee 582-3 Corbett Reserve 430-2 Pandav 643 Chhatrapati Shivaji 1092 Coronation Durbar Site 77 Udaigiri Caves 642 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales costs 14 Udayagiri & Khandagiri 590 Museum) 725 courses 1163-4, see also meditation Vijayawada 914 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus courses, yoga cell phones 15, 1171-2 (Victoria Terminus) 726, 10 ayurveda 36, 707, 814, 842-3 Cellular Jail National Memorial 1067 610-13, 664-8, 612 cooking 78, 159, 321-2, 458, 732, Cenotaph of Maharaja Bakhtawar climate 610 1120 Singh 130 dance 115, 421, 732 chai 1120 festivals & events 611 language 78, 322, 389, 409, 493, 732 Chail 290 food 611 massage 322 Chamba 333-6, 334 highlights 612 music 115, 140, 389, 390, 421 Chamba Valley 330-6 internet resources 611 Crafts Museum 70-1 Champaner 687-8 travel seasons 610 credit cards 1168 Chandigarh 202-9, 202 Chhoti Dargah 514 cricket 450, 467-8, 748, 1105 accommodation 205-6 Chidambaram 1021-3 crocodiles 594, 608, 632, 927, 1001-2, activities 202-5 children, travel with 45-7, 737 1072 drinking 207-8 Chilika Lake 601-2 Cubbon Park 840-1 entertainment 208 Chini-ka-Rauza 357 culture 1101-5 food 206-7 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 951 currency 14 internet access 208 Chiriya Tapu 1071 customs regulations 1164 medical services 208 Chitrakote Falls 668 cycle-rickshaws 1182 shopping 208 Chitrakut 381-2 cycling 19, 80, 249, 1179-80 sights 202-5 Chitrasala 148 tourist offices 209 (Chittor) 152-4 tours 205 Chota Imambara 371 D travel to/from 209 Chowara 931 dabba-wallahs 744 travel within 209 Chowmahalla Palace 895-6 Dal Lake 235 Dalai Lama 36, 315, 317, 320, see also 60-1, 62-3, 66, 13, 60-1 E 1216 Buddhism shopping 94-7 East Company 1093 Dalhousie 330-2, 332 sights 62-77 Eastern Indus Valley 276-7 Dalits 1103 tourist offices 98 economy 1082 dance 851, 1139-40 tours 79-81 Eden Gardens 450 courses 115, 421, 732 travel to/from 98-100, 101 Eid al-Fitr 22 Dandeli 875 travel within 100-2, 82 electricity 1164 Dandi 688 Elephanta Island 756

INDEX democratic socialism 932 dangers, see safe travel dengue fever 1191 elephant rides & safaris 525, 558, Darbargadh 710-11 desserts 1117 559, 663, 869 Dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti Devaraja Market 852-3 elephants 19, 1147-8, 12 D-F 136-7 Devarajaswami Temple 1009 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 864 Darjeeling 7, 487-98, 488, 7 Devbagh 873-4 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 945 accommodation 493-4 Dha-Hanu 267 Ellora 769-72, 770 activities 492-3 Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid 636 embassies 1164-5 drinking 495-6 dhal 1115 emergencies 15 emergency services 496 Dhamekh Stupa 396 language 1198, 1201 food 494-5 Dhankar 342 endangered species 1147 internet access 496 Dharamkot 327 environmental issues 1152-4, see also medical services 496 individual issues Dharamsala 315-16 shopping 496 Bhopal 637 Dharavi 736 sights 488-92 Goa 811 Dharmasthala 872-3 tourist offices 497 Leh 258 Dhauli 594 tours 493 McLeod Ganj 325 Dhirdham Mandir 492 travel to/from 497-8 951 Diamond Harbour 478 travel within 498 etiquette 1080, 1081-2 diarrhoea 1192 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway 491, 498 food 1119 Dibrugarh 563-4 Daroji Sanctuary 882 religion 1112 Diglipur 1076 Daulatabad 768-9 Ettumanur 945 Dimapur 570 Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary 606 events, see festivals & events Dirang 568 deforestation 1153 exchange rates 15 Dehra Dun 404-8, 405 disabilities, travellers with 1173 Diskit 269-70 Delhi 13, 48, 56-103, 58-9, 76, F 78-9, 13 Diu 692-7, 694 fair trade 1133 accommodation 81, 83-6 diving & snorkelling Fatehpur 135 activities 77 Andaman Islands 1063-4, 1068, 365-7, 366 Chandni Chowk 67 1071, 1072, 1073, 1074, 1075 festivals & events 12, 20-4, 1142-3, 12 Connaught Place 75, 72 Goa 813-14 Adivasi Mela 591 courses 78-9 health 1192 Ahmedabad 677 drinking 92-4 Konkan Coast 780 Andhra Pradesh 892 entertainment 94 Lakshadweep 978-9, 980 festivals & events 57 Diwali 23, 1142 Beating of the Retreat 57 food 56, 86-92 Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Bihar 507 highlights 58-9 Cultures 579 Chennai 992 history 62 dosas 1120 Chhattisgarh 611 internet access 98 dowry 1102 Delhi 57 internet resources 57 Dr Ramnath A Poddar Haveli Museum Delhi International Arts Festival 57 itineraries 62 132 Diwali 23, 1142 medical services 98 Dravidian culture 992 Durga 23, 457 metro 100, 82 drinks 394, 762, 1120-1, see also Dussehra 23, 151, 300, 684, 853 money 98 lassis, tea Goa 796 New Delhi 67-75, 68-9 driving, see car travel Gujarat 670, 684 Old Delhi 62-7, 64-5 drugs 799, 1167 & 200 Paharganj 83, 88, 92-3, 76 Dubare Forest Reserve 869 279 Rajpath 71-3 Dudhsagar Falls 810 Holi 21, 1143 Durga Puja 23, 457 Hornbill Festival 571 000 Map pages Durpin Gompa 499-500 Independence Day 22, 57 000 Photo pages Dussehra 23, 151, 300, 684, 853 Jammu 223 Dzongri 548 507 836 paan 1117 Gandhi, Indira 74-5, 1082 Karthikai Deepam Festival 1012 Punjab 200 Gandhi, Mahatma 1096-8, 1132 1217 Kashmir 223 105 Anasakti Ashram 439 Kerala 920 527 (birthday) 23 Kite Festival 20 spices 868, 1114 Gandhi Memorial 1041 Kolkata 443 982 Gandhi Memorial Museum 1037 Konark Festival 600 346 73 Kumbh Mela 379, 646, 1103-4 402 Kaba Gandhi No Delo 705 INDEX 223 475 1132 611 Forest Research Institute Museum Porbandar (birthplace) 709 758 404-5 Raj Ghat 67 McLeod Ganj 322 forts 16 Sabarmati Ashram 673 F-G Minjar Festival 333 Agra Fort 352-3, 356-7 Sevagram Ashram 777 Mumbai 720, 734, 736 Akbar’s Fort 379 Gandhi, Rajiv 74-5, 992, 1081-2 Navratri 684 Amber Fort 124-5 Gandhi Smriti Museum 688 Nongkrem Festival 582 Bala Qila 129 Gandhi, Sonia 1081-2 Northeast Tribal States 551 Bhongir 909 Gandhinagar 682-3 585 Bidar 889-90 Ganges River 377, 384, 385-6, 412, Punjab 200 Chandragiri Fort 917 425, 514, 7 Puri Beach Festival 596 Chittorgarh Fort 152-3 Gangotri Temple 425 Qutb Festival 57 Daulatabad 768-9 530-6, 532 Rajasthan 105 Diu Fort 693 Ganpatipule 779-80 Rath Yatra 596 812 gardens, see parks & gardens Republic Day 57 895 Garo Hills 582 Sikkim 527 Fort 614-16 Gateway of India 723 Sonepur Mela 514 Jaigarh 125 Gaumukh 425-6 Tamil Nadu 982, 984 183-5 481-2 Udaipur 160 Fort 383 gay travellers 738, 1165-6 Uttar Pradesh 346 Junagarh 193 Gaya 514-16 Uttarakhand 402 329 Gelukpa Cultural Society Gompa 304 West Bengal 475 Kondapalli 915 geography 1151-2 films 1081, 1140-1, see also Bolly wood Kota Fort 151 Geyzing 543 fishing 310, 861 166-7 ghats Five Rathas 1003 Lohagarh 126 Har-ki-Pairi Ghat 412-13 Maharashtra 758 food 1114-23, 1122, 1123 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat 729-30 173-5 Andhra Pradesh 892 Pushkar 139 Naggar 302 Bihar 507 Raj Ghat 67 Nahargarh 112-13 chapati 1115 Ram Ghat 647 Fort 792-3 Chhattisgarh 611 Ramkund 760 73 courses 78, 159, 321-2, 458, 732, Shanagar Burning Ghat 457 1120 793 385-8, 389 dhal 1115 388 Vishram Ghat 369 dosas 1120 Red Fort 60-1, 62-3, 66, 13, 60-1 giardiasis 1192 Goa 796 791 Gingee 1013-14 Gujarat 670 791 Global Pagoda 731 Himachal Pradesh 279 Taragarh Fort (Ajmer) 137 Goa 10, 52, 795-834, 797, 10 Jharkhand 507 Taragarh Fort (Bundi) 148 climate 795 Karnataka 836 Tsemo Fort 245 festivals & events 796 Kashmir 223 Tughlaqabad 103 food 796 kati rolls 465 Uparkot Fort 701 highlights 797 kebabs 374 1010-11 internet resources 796 Kerala 920 Warangal 910 travel seasons 795 Kolkata 443 French rule 1093 Goa Chitra 829 language 1196-8, 1201 funerals 1102 Goecha La 548 Madhya Pradesh 611 Gokarna 874-6 Mumbai 720 G Golden Temple 13, 213, 1137, 13, 1136-7 Northeast Tribal States 551 galleries, see museums & galleries golf 77, 238, 289, 458, 462-3 Odisha 585 Galta 113 Golgumbaz 887 Gomateshvara Statue 864 Harappan civilisation 1084-5 Basheshar Mahadev 296 1218 gompas 1111, see also Buddhist Haridwar 412-16, 413 Bhimakali Temple 291 temples, monasteries, stupas Har-ki-Dun Valley 426 Bhutnath Mandir 294 Bhutia Busty Gompa 490 Har-ki-Pairi Ghat 412-13 Birla Mandir 76 Durpin Gompa 499-500 Harmal 824-5 Brahma Temple 139 Gelukpa Cultural Society Gompa 304 Haryana 48, 199-211, 201 Brajeshwari Devi Temple 329 Hemis Gompa 273 climate 199 Brihadishwara Temple 1025-6 Karsha Gompa 242 festivals & events 200 Channakeshava Temple 863 INDEX Leh 245 highlights 201 Cheluvanarayana Temple 861 Matho Gompa 262 internet resources 200 Devarajaswami Temple 1009 Namgyal Gompa 317 travel seasons 199 Dhirdham Mandir 492 G-H Pemayangtse Gompa 545 Hassan 862-3 Ellora 769-71 Phuktal Gompa 242-3 havelis Five Rathas 1003 Phyang Gompa 263 Bikaner 193 Galta 113 Sangachoeling Gompa 545 Jaisalmer 185 Gangotri Temple 425 Spituk Gompa 262 Mandawa 135 Hadimba Temple 304 Stakna Gompa 273 Nawalgarh 132 Hanumangarhi 376 Tashijong Gompa 330 Shekhawati 134 Hoysaleswara Temple 863 Tharpa Choling Gompa 500-1 Udaipur 158 Jagannath Mandir 595 Thiksey Gompa 272 Havelock Island 1072-4 Jagannath Temple 523 Thongsa Gompa 501 Hawa Mahal 111 Jagdish Temple 158 TseChokLing Gompa 319 Hazarduari 481 Jakhu Temple 283 Yiga Choling Gompa 490 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah 69-70 Janardhana Temple 933 Gondal 704 head hunters 572 Kailasanatha Temple 1008 Gopalpur-on-Sea 602-3 health 1188-94 Kalighat Temple 456-7 Gorakhpur 397-8 HEH the Nizam’s Museum 896 Kamakhya Mandir 554 Great Himalayan National Park 296 Heliodorus Pillar 642 Kamakshi Amman Temple 1009 Gujarat 51, 669-717, 671 Hemis Gompa 273 Karni Mata Temple 198 climate 669 henna 1144, 1143 Kedarnath Temple 426-7 festivals & events 670, 684 hepatitis 1191 Keshava Temple 861 food 670 Hessaraghatta 851-2 Khajuraho 623-9, 12, 626-7 highlights 671 hijras 1105 Kumari Amman Temple 1041 internet resources 670 hiking, see trekking Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex travel seasons 669 hill stations 18 (Chamba) 333 Gulmarg 238-9 Coonoor 1051 Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Delhi) 76 Gupta empire 1086 Darjeeling 487 Lakshna Devi Temple 336 Gurdwara Bangla Sahib 73 Haryana 209-10 Lingaraj Mandir 588-9 Gurdwara Fatehgarh Sahib 211 Kotagiri 1051-2 Mahabodhi Temple 516-17 Mahalaxmi Temple (Mumbai) 730-1 Gurkhas 487-8, 499, 1097 Mirik 485-6 Manimahesh Temple 336 553-8, 554 Ooty 1052-9 Mata Temple 214 Gwalior 613-18, 614 Himachal Pradesh 49, 278-344, 280-1 climate 278 Nataraja Temple 1022 festivals & events 279 Patalpuri Temple 379 H food 279 Raghunath Temple 300 Hadimba Temple 304 highlights 280 Ram Janam Bhumi 376-7 haggling 1125 internet resources 279 Ramanathaswamy Temple 1034 Haji Ali’s 729 travel seasons 278 Rani Temple 133-4 Hajo 558 Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Rock Fort Temple 1029 HAL Aerospace Museum & Heritage 491 Shore Temple 1003 Centre 842 Himalayan Nyinmapa Buddhist Shri Temple 969 Halebid 863-4 Temple 304 Shri Omkar Mandhata 651-2 Hampi 876-81, 877, 880, 8 Himalayan Zoological Park 531 Shri Hamta Pass 314 490, 1151 922 handicrafts 19, 714, 1128-9, 1128, 1129 language 1195-9 Shri Trayanbakshwar 419-20 Hanumangarhi 376 Hindu temples Sree Vallabha Temple 945 Aihole 886 Sri Durgiana Temple 214-15 000 Map pages Akshardham Temple 75 Sri Ekambaranathar Temple 1008-9 000 Photo pages Arunachaleswar Temple 1012 Sri Jambukeshwara Temple 1030 Badami 884-5 Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple 1015 Sri Meenakshi Temple 1036, 1135, Howrah Bridge (Rabindra Setu) 450 J 1134-5 Hoysaleswara Temple 863 Jabalpur 658-60, 658 1219 Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple Hubli 883-4 Jagannath Mandir 595 1029-30 Humayun’s Tomb 67-8 Jagannath Temple 523 Sripuram Golden Temple 1010 Hunder (Hundur) 270 Jagdalpur 666-7 Sun Temple 600 Hyderabad 894-907, 894, 898, Jagdish Temple 158 Swarg Niwas 419-20 900, 902 Jahan, Shah 347, 350, 354, 356, 1091 Tapkeshwar Temple 406 accommodation 899-901

Jaigarh 125 INDEX Temple of Somnath 698 drinking 904-5 Jain temples Trimbakeshwar Temple 764 entertainment 904-5 Bidami 885 Umananda Mandir 554 food 901-3 Delwara 170 Undavalli Cave Temples 914 H-J internet access 905 Ellora 769-71 Vadakkunathan Kshetram Temple medical services 905 Jaisalmer 183-4 967 shopping 905 Vaikunta Perumal Temple 1009-10 Khajuraho 623-9, 12, 626-7 sights 895-8 Venkateshwara Temple 916 Mahalaxmi Temple (Kolhapur) 793-4 tourist offices 906 Virupaksha Temple 878 Mt Abu 170 Vishwanath Temple 388 tours 898-9 Nasiyan (Red) Temple 137 Vittala Temple 878-9 travel to/from 906-7 Ranakpur 167-8 Yamunotri Temple 426 travel within 907 Sheetalnathji Mandir 456 1106-10, 1135-6 Shatrunjaya 690-1 Jainism 1112 Hirapur 594 I Jaipur 108-24, 110-1 history 1083-100, see also individual Igatpuri 763-4 accommodation 115-17 locations 573-4 activities 113 Akbar 1091 Independence 1095-100 Ashoka, Emperor 1086, 1087 drinking 119 Independence Day 22, 57 Aurangzeb 350, 1091 entertainment 119-20 Indian Coffee House 927 British rule 445, 1092-6 food 117-19 Indian Museum 447-8 Chhatrapati Shivaji 1092 internet access 121 Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum 74-5 communal conflict 1081, 1107 medical services 121 Indore 648-51, 650 French rule 1093 shopping 120-6 Indus Valley 1083-4 Gandhi, Indira 74-5, 1082 sights 109-13 influenza 1191 Gandhi, Mahatma 67, 73, 673, tourist offices 122 1096-8, 1132 inner line permit, see permits tours 115 Gandhi, Rajiv 74-5, 992, 1081-2 insect bites 1193-4 travel to/from 122-3, 124 Independence 1095-100 insurance travel within 123 Jahan, Shah 347, 350, 354, 356, 1091 health 1188 Jaisalmer 12, 182-92, 184-5, 12 Kashmir conflict 1080-1, 1099 motorcycle 1184 accommodation 186-8 Nehru, Jawaharlal 1098 travel 1166 camel safaris 190-1 Partition 1098-100 International Yoga Festival food 188-9 Portuguese rule 692, 798, 1092-3 (Puducherry) 1015 internet access 189 hitching 1181 International Yoga Festival shopping 189 HIV 1191 (Rishikesh) 421 tourist offices 190 Holi 21, 1143 internet access 1166-7 tours 186 holidays 1170 internet resources 15, see also travel to/from 190-2 homestays 1162 individual locations travel within 192 Ganj 622 food 1119 Jaisalmer Fort 183-5 Ladakh 252-3 health 1189 Jakhu Temple 283 Spiti 342 history 1084 Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 484-5 West Bengal 480 volunteering 44 Jalgaon 775-6 Hooghly River 478-9 wildlife 1150 Jallianwala Bagh Massacre 214, 216 Hornbill Festival 571 Islam 1110, 1137 Jama Masjid (Agra) 357 horse riding 158-9, 252, 1045, 1054 Islamnagar 638 Jama Masjid (Bijapur) 888 Hoshang’s Tomb 655 Iswari Minar Swarga Sal 113 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 66-7, 1137, 17, Hospet 882-3 564-5 1138 houseboats Itimad-ud-Daulah 357 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 365-6 Alappuzha 940-1 itineraries 25-30, 62, 114, 445, 722, Jama Masjid (Leh) 245 Kollam 937 735, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, Jama Masjid (Mandu) 655 Srinagar 236 114, 735 Jama Masjid (Srinagar) 233 Jammu 49, 222-77, 224-5, 228 Kanha National Park 661-2 Khetri Mahal 134 1220 climate 222 Kannur 975-7 Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary 709 festivals & events 223 Kanyakumari 1041-4, 1042 Khuda Bakhsh Oriental Library 510 highlights 224 Kargil 240 Khuldabad 769 internet resources 223 Karla Cave 783 Khuri 192-3 travel seasons 222 Karmapa 537 Khusru Bagh 379-80 Jamnagar 706-9, 708 Karnataka 52, 835-90, 838-9 Ki 341 Janapada Loka Folk Arts Museum 852 climate 835 Kibber 341 INDEX Janardhana Temple 933 festivals & events 836 Kinnaur Valley 290-4 Janjira 778-9 food 836 Kisama Heritage Village 571 Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 75 highlights 838 Kite Festival 20 J-K Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 109-10 internet resources 836 Kite Museum 677 Japanese B Encephalitis 1191 travel seasons 835 Kochi 952-66, 953 Japanese Peace Pagoda 490-1 Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath 841-2 accommodation 957-60 Jari 297-8 Karni Mata Temple 198 activities 955-6 Jashipur 607 Karsha Gompa 242 drinking 960-2 Jawalamukhi 329 Karthikai Deepam Festival 1012 entertainment 962-3 Jehangir 1091 Kashmir 49, 222-77, 224-5 Ernakulam 960, 962, 958 Jeypore 604 climate 222 food 960-2 Jhansi 382-3 conflict 1080-1, 1099 Fort Cochin 952, 957, 960-1, 954 Jharkhand 50, 506-9, 523-5, 508 festivals & events 223 internet access 963 climate 506 food 223 Mattancherry 960, 962, 956 festivals & events 507 highlights 224 medical services 963 food 507 history 226-7 shopping 963 highlights 508 internet resources 223 sights 952-5 internet resources 507 travel seasons 222 tourist offices 964 travel seasons 506 Kasol 298 tours 956 Jhunjhunu 133-4 Kathakali 945, 948, 969, 976 travel to/from 964-5 Job Charnock 449-50 kati rolls 465 travel within 965-6 Jodhpur 172-81, 174-5 Katra Masjid () 368 Kodagu (Coorg) region 866-9 Jog Falls 874 Katra Masjid () 481 Kodaikanal 1044-8, 1046 Jorethang (Naya Bazaar) 541 Kausani 439 570-1 Jorhat 561 kayaking 250-1, 420, 832, 843, 875 Kolhapur 793-4 Joshimath 427-8 Kaza 340-1 Kolkata 50, 442-73, 444, 446-7, 458 Junagadh 700-4, 702 Kaziranga National Park 559-61 accommodation 459-63 Junagarh 193 kebabs 374 activities 458 Kedarnath Temple 426-7 BBD Bagh 449-50, 462, 465-6, Keoladeo Ghana National Park 128-9 466-7, 452 K Kerala 53, 919-80, 921, 7, 18 Chowringhee 466, 450 Kabini Lake 865-6 climate 919 climate 442 Kachchh 710-16 festivals & events 920 drinking 466-7 Kadmat Island 979 food 920 entertainment 467-8 Kailasanatha Temple 1008 highlights 921 festivals & events 443 Kakkabe 869 internet resources 920 food 443, 463-6 Kalachakra Temple 317 travel seasons 919 highlights 444 kalarippayat 962, 963, 976 Kerala Folklore Museum 952 internet access 469 Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary 332 Kesariya 514 internet resources 443 Kalighat Temple 456-7 Kesgarh Sahib 211 itineraries 445 Kalimpong 499-505, 500 Keshava Temple 861 medical services 469 Kalpa 293-4 Keylong 338 permits 469 Kamakhya Mandir 554 Khajjiar 332-3 shopping 468-9 Kamakshi Amman Temple 1009 Khajuraho 12, 623-32, 624, 12, 626-7 sights 446-58 Kanadukathan 1033-4 Khalsi 267 street names 454 1008-10, 1009 Khandagiri Caves 590 tourist offices 469 Kangra 329 Khangchendzonga 490 tours 459 000 Map pages Khangchendzonga Trek 548 travel seasons 442 000 Photo pages Khanqah Shah-i-Hamadan 233 travel to/from 469-72 Khardung La 269 travel within 472-3 Kollam 936-8, 936 accommodation 252-6 climate 757 Konark 599-601 activities 249-51 festivals & events 758 1221 Kondagaon 668 courses 249-51 highlights 759 Kondapalli 915 drinking 257-8 internet resources 758 Konkan Coast 778-80 entertainment 258-9 travel seasons 757 Koraput 604-5 food 256-7 Maharishi Mahesh Yogi 420, 421 Korzok 277 internet access 259 Marine National Kota 151-2 sights 244-9 Park 1071 INDEX Kotagiri 1051-2 tourist offices 259 Maheshwar 653-4 Kotla Firoz Shah 77 tours 249-51 Maidan 447 Kottayam 943-4 travel to/from 259-61 Majuli Island 562-3 Kovalam 928-31, 928 travel within 261 Malana 297-8 K-M Kozhikode 970-1, 970 Leh Palace 245 malaria 1190-1 Krishnapuram Palace Museum 938 Lepakshi 918 Malda 481 Kuari Pass 430 lesbian travellers 738, 1165-6 Malpe 873 Kullu 300-2 Life of Pi 922 Malvan 780 Kullu Valley 301 Likir 264-5 Mamallapuram 1002-8, 1004 Kumarakom 944-5 Lingaraj Mandir 588-9 Mana Village 429 Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary 944 lions 1147 Manali 274, 304-13, 306, 308 Kumari Amman Temple 1041 Nandankanan Zoological Park 593 558 Kumbakonam 1023-5, 1024 Lion Safari Park 927 Mandarmani 478 Kumbh Mela 379, 646, 1103-4 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 756 Mandawa 135 Kumbhalgarh 166-7 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary Mandi 294-5 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 167 699-700 Mandore Gardens 181 Kumily 945, 946 literature 1141, see also books Mandrem 823-4 Kundalpur 523 Little Andaman 1077-8 Mandu 654-8, 656 Kurseong 486-7 Lohagarh 126 Mandvi 715-16 Kurukshetra 210 Lonar Meteorite Crater 776 Maner 514 Kushinagar 398 Lonavla 782-3, 782 Mangalajodi 602 Kutch 710-17 Long Island 1076 Mangalore 869-72, 870 Kuttichira Mosque 970 Lothal 683 Manikaran 299-300 Lucknow 370-5, 372 Manimahesh Temple 336 L 573-4 Lachen 539-40 M maps 1168 Lachung 539 Madgaon 825-7, 826 Mapusa 810-11 Ladakh 49, 243-77, 264 Madhya Pradesh 51, 610-64, 612 Marathas 1091-2 Lahaul 337-9 climate 610 Marble Rocks 660 155 festivals & events 611 Margao 825-7, 826 Lakshadweep 978-80 food 611 Marine National Park 709 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex highlights 612 markets 9, 667, 852-3, 9 (Chamba) 333 internet resources 611 Markha Valley 263 Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Delhi) 76 travel seasons 610 marriage 1102 Lakshna Devi Temple 336 Madikeri 866-8 Masrur 329 Lal Bagh Palace 649 Madras, see Chennai Mata Temple 214 Lal Qila, see Red Fort 1036-41, 1038 Matheran 780-1 Lalbagh Botanical Gardens 841 magazines 1162 Matho Gompa 262 Lalitgiri 609 Mahabalipuram, see Mamallapuram Mathura 368-9, 368 Lamayuru 268-9 Mahabat Maqbara 702 952 language 14, 1195-1207 Mahabharata 1108-9 Mauryan empire 1085-6 courses 78, 322, 389, 409, 493, 732 Mahabodhi Temple 516-17 Mausoleum of Ahmed Shah 673 emergencies 1198, 1201 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat 729-30 Mausoleum of Sher Shah 516 Hindi 1195-9 Mahalaxmi Temple (Kolhapur) 793-4 mausoleums, see tombs, shrines & Tamil 1200-2 Mahalaxmi Temple (Mumbai) 730-1 mausoleums lassis 394 Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama 214 Mayabunder 1076 leeches 529 Maharaja’s Palace 852 Mayapur 480-1 legal matters 1166, 1167 Maharao Raja Bahadur Singh McLeod Ganj 316-27, 318 Legship 543 Museum 148 accommodation 322-4 Leh 244-61, 246-7, 249 Maharashtra 52, 757-94, 759 activities 320-1 McLeod Ganj continued Thotlakonda 913 food 720, 741-5 1222 courses 321-2 Udayagiri 609 Fort Area 725-7, 730-1 drinking 325 money 14, 15, 1168-9 highlights 721 entertainment 325 Morjim 823 internet access 751 festivals 322 internet resources 720 food 324-5 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 137 itineraries 722, 735, 735 medical services 326 Adina Masjid 482 Kala Ghoda 723, 725 shopping 325-6 Ahmedabad 673-4

INDEX medical services 751 sights 316-20 Baradwari 482 shopping 748-51 tourist offices 326 Bhopal 633 sights 723 travel to/from 326-7 Haji Ali’s Mosque 729 tourist offices 751-2 M travel within 326-7 Jama Masjid (Agra) 357 tours 732-4 measures 1162 Jama Masjid (Bijapur) 888 travel seasons 719 Mecca Masjid 897 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 66-7, 1137, travel to/from 752-3 medical services 1190 17, 1138 travel within 753-5 meditation courses 35, 36-7 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 365-6 948-51, 949 Delhi 78-9 Jama Masjid (Leh) 245 Murlidhar Devidas ‘Baba’ Amte 778 Goa 799 Jama Masjid (Mandu) 655 Murshidabad 481 Hyderabad 898 Jama Masjid (Srinagar) 233 Murud 778-9 Igatpuri 763-4 Katra Masjid (Mathura) 368 museums & galleries Leh 249-50 Katra Masjid (Murshidabad) 481 Anthropological Museum 666 McLeod Ganj 321 Kuttichira Mosque 970 Bengal Natural History Museum 492 Mumbai 731 Mecca Masjid 897 Bhuri Singh Museum 334 Pune 785-6 Mosque of Dilawar Khan 655 Buddha Museum 398 Rishikesh 420 Nakhoda Mosque 452-3 Calico Museum of Textiles 673 vipassana 763-4 POA Mecca 558 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu 579-83 Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid 102 Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Mehndi 1144 Sunehri Masjid 67 Museum) 725 Mehrangarh 173-5 Mother Teresa 455 City Museum (Ahmedabad) 677 Mehtab Bagh 357 Mother Teresa’s ‘Motherhouse’ 448-9 Crafts Museum 70-1 Melagarh 578-9 motorcycle travel 1182-4 Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Melkote 861 mountaineering 33-4, see also trekking Cultures 579 Mercara 866-8 Darjeeling 493, 499 Dr Ramnath A Poddar Haveli Milam Glacier 440-1 Himalayan Mountaineering Museum 132 Mindrolling Monastery 404 Institute 491 Forest Research Institute Museum 404-5 Minicoy Island 980 health 1193 Gandhi Memorial Museum 1037 Minjar Festival 333 Ladakh 252 Gandhi Smriti Museum 688 Mirik 485-6 Leh 250 HAL Aerospace Museum & Mithila paintings 512 Manali 310 Heritage Centre 842 574-5 Rishikesh 420-1 HEH the Nizam’s Museum 896 mobile phones 15, 1171-2 safety 34 Indian Museum 447-8 Modhera 683-4 Uttarkashi 425 Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum Mokokchung 572 Mt Abu 168-72, 168 74-5 Mon 572-3 Mubarak Mandi 227 Janapada Loka Folk Arts Museum monasteries 11, 11, see also 1059-60 852 Buddhist temples, gompas, 1089-91 Kerala Folklore Museum 952 stupas Mulbekh 240-1 Kite Museum 677 Bavikonda 913 Mumbai 10, 52, 719-56, 721, 724-5, Krishnapuram Palace Museum 938 Lalitgiri 609 742, 10 Maharao Raja Bahadur Singh Mindrolling Monastery 404 accommodation 736-41 Museum 148 Monastery Loop 545-9 activities 731 National Gallery of Modern Art 71 Monastery of St Augustine 809 Churchgate 730-1 National Museum 70 Namdroling Monastery 869 Colaba 723, 728 National Rail Museum 76-7 Palchen Choeling Monastic courses 731-2 Naulakha Museum 704 Institute 542 Dharavi 736 Prince of Wales Museum 725 000 Map pages drinking 745-7 Puthe Maliga Palace Museum 922 000 Photo pages entertainment 747-8 Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum 786 festivals & events 720, 734, 736 Salar Jung Museum 895 Shankar’s International Dolls Goa 799 Nepal border crossings 399, 441, Museum 77 Great Himalayan National Park 296 484, 505, 515, 1177, 1178 1223 Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Museum Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 484-5 New Delhi, see Delhi 793 Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary 332 New Jalpaiguri 482-4 Submarine Museum 911 Kanha National Park 661-2 newspapers 1162 Sulabh International Museum of Kaziranga National Park 559-61 Neyyar Dam Lion Safari Park 927 Toilets 77 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 128-9 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 864-6 Survey of India Museum 405-6 Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary 709 Nilgiri Hills 1051-59, 1053 INDEX Tribal Cultural Museum 786 Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary 944 Nishat Bagh 235 music 1140 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife nizams of Hyderabad 1093 courses 115, 140, 389, 390, 421 Sanctuary 167 Nongkrem Festival 582

Mussoorie 408-12, 410 Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Norbulingka Institute 328 N-O Mysore 852-9, 854 Park 1071 Northeast Tribal States 51, 550-83, Manas National Park 558 552 Mangalajodi 602 climate 550 N Marine National Park 709 Nabadwip 480-1 festivals & events 551 Mudumalai National Park 1059-60 570-3 food 551 865 Nagarhole National Park 865 highlights 552 Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary 683 Nagarjunakonda 907-9 internet resources 551 Namdapha National Park 569 Naggar 302-3 permits 553 Nameri National Park 559 Nagpur 776-7 tours 560 Neyyar Dam Lion Safari Park 927 Nahargarh 112-13 travel seasons 550 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 864-6 Notre Dame de Anges 1014 Nainital 432-6, 434-5 632-3 Nubra Valley 269-72 Nakhoda Mosque 452-3 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary nuclear issues 1080, 1082 Nakki Lake 169 951-2 Nalanda 522-3 664 Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary 683 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 945-8, O Namchi 540-1 946 observatories Namdapha National Park 569 342-3 Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 75 Namdroling Monastery 869 Pobitora National Park 558 Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 109-10 Nameri National Park 559 416-17 Kodaikanal 1044 Namgyal Gompa 317 Ranthambhore National Park 145-7 Vedh Shala 647 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology 530 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 756 Odisha 51, 584-609, 586 Nanak, Guru 1110 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary climate 584 Nandankanan Zoological Park 593-4 699-700 festivals & events 585 Nandi Hills 852 594 food 585 Naqshband Sahib 234 Satpura National Park 643 highlights 586 Narkanda 290 Similipal National Park 606-7 internet resources 585 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 210-11 Nasik 760-3, 761 travel seasons 584 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 477-8 Nasiyan (Red) Temple 137 Old Goa 807-9, 808 Tadoba-Andhari Reserve 777-8 Nataraja Temple 1022 olive ridley turtles 603, 823, 832, 1076 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 776 Nathu La 537-8 Om 1109 Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 951 National Gallery of Modern Art 71 Omkareshwar 651-3 Valley of Flowers National Park 428 National Museum 70 Onkadelli 605 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1008 national parks, reserves & wildlife Ooty 1052-9, 1056 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 972-5 sanctuaries 1150 accommodation 1055, 1057 Wild Ass Sanctuary 716-17 Bandhavgarh National Park 662-4 activities 1054-5 National Rail Museum 76-7 Bandipur National Park 865 drinking 1057-8 National Research Centre on Camels Betla (Palamau) National Park 525 food 1057-8 198 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 608 internet access 1058 Naulakha Museum 704 Blackbuck National Park 690 shopping 1058 Nawalgarh 132-3 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 951 sights 1052-4 Neermahal 578-9 Corbett Tiger Reserve 430-2 tourist office 1058 Nehru, Jawaharlal 67, 75, 380, 1098 tours 1055 Dandeli 875 Nehru Memorial Museum Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary 882 & Planetarium 75 travel to/from 1058-9 Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary 606 Neil Island 1074-5 travel within 1059 Dubare Forest Reserve 869 Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden opening hours 1163 Eravikulam National Park 951 203-4 Orchha 618-23, 620 Orissa, see Odisha Pangong Tso 276 Deshnok 198 1224 Osho 786 Panjim 800-7, 802 709 Osho International Meditation Resort Panna National Park 632-3 Gaya 514 785-6 paragliding 310, 330, 502, 818 Hajo 558 Osian 181 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary 951-2 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah 69 Parasnath 524 Khuldabad 769 P Pardesi Synagogue 952-3 Kushinagar 398 parks & gardens Nasik 760

INDEX paan 1117 Pabbar Valley 290 Botanical Gardens (Kolkata) 456 Omkareshwar 651 Pachmarhi 643-6, 644 Brindavan Gardens 861 Parasnath 524 Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Buddha Smriti Park 510 Puri 594 O-P Park 491 Cubbon Park 840-1 Rajgir 521 Palace 932 Jallianwala Bagh 214 Shatrunjaya 690-1 Padum 242 Lalbagh Botanical Gardens 841 Sivagiri Mutt Pahalgam 231 Mandore Gardens 181 Sripuram Golden Temple 1010 Paigah Tombs 897 Mehtab Bagh 357 Tirumala 915 painting 512, 750, 1144-5 Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden Tiruvannamalai 1012 Pakistan border crossings 220, 203-4 Udupi 873 1177, 1179 Nishat Bagh 235 Pin Valley National Park 342-3 palaces 16 Panchakki 765 Pindari Glacier 440 Aga Khan Palace 786-7 Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens 209 Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens 209 Akbar’s Palace 137-8 Shalimar Bagh 235 Pipli 594 Bengaluru Palace 841 Viceregal Lodge & Botanical Pir Dastgir Sahib 233 Bundi Palace 147-8 Gardens 283 Pithoragarh 440 Chitrasala 148 Partition 1098-100 planning, see also individual locations Darbargadh 710-11 Parur 967 budgeting 14 Hazarduari 481 Valley 297-300, 301 calendar of events 20-4 Jaipur City Palace 109 Pasighat 567 children 45-7 Khetri Mahal 134 passports 1175 India’s regions 48-53 Kota City Palace 151 Patalpuri Temple 379 internet resources 15 Lal Bagh Palace 649 Patan 684 itineraries 25-30 Leh Palace 245 Pathankot 220-1 passports 1175 Maharaja’s Palace 852 Patiala 211-12 trains 31-2 Mattancherry Palace 952 Patna 509-13, 510 travel seasons 14, 20-4 Neermahal 578-9 Pattadakal 886 trekking 33-4 932 Pattan Valley 338 volunteering 39-44 Sajjan Garh () 158 Pavagadh 687-8 plants 1149-50 Stok Palace 262 Pelling 543-4, 544 POA Mecca 558 Suraj Mahl’s Palace 129 Pemayangtse Gompa 545 Pobitora National Park 558 Taragarh Palace 330 Pench Tiger Reserve 664 politics 1080-2 Thanjavur Royal Palace 1026-7 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 945-8, 946 Ponda 809-10 Tipu Sultan’s Palace 842 permits 469, 1173 Pondicherry, see Puducherry Udaipur City Palace 155-8 Andaman Islands 1064-5 population 1080 Ujjayanta Palace 576 Darjeeling 497 Porbandar 709 Umaid Bhawan Palace 175 Kaza 340 Port Blair 1067-71, 1068 Vijay Vilas Palace 715 Ladakh 244 Portuguese rule 692, 798, 1092-3 Palácio do Deão 829 Lakshadweep 979 postal services 1169-70 Palampet 911 Manipur 573 Pratapgad Fort 792-3 Palampur 329-30 Mizoram 575 prehistoric paintings 639 Palitana 690-2 Northeast Tribal States 553 Prince of Wales Museum 725 Palolem 832-4, 832 287 public holidays 1170 Panaji 800-7, 802 Sikkim 497, 529-30 Puducherry 1014-21, 1016, 9 Panamik 271-2 photography 1169 Pudukkottai 1033 Panchakki 765 Phuktal Gompa 242-3 Pulinkudi 931 Pandua 481-2 Phyang Gompa 263 Pune 783-91, 784 000 Map pages pilgrimages 20, 1103-4 Punjab 48, 199-221, 201 000 Photo pages Amarnath 231 climate 199 Bodhgaya 516 festivals & events 200 food 200 Rambha 602 Hampi 878 highlights 201 Rameswaram 1034-6 health 1188-94 1225 internet resources 200 Ramkund 760 Jharkhand 509 travel seasons 199 Ramnagar (Uttarakhand) 431 Kashmir 227 Purana Qila 73 Ramnagar Fort (Varanasi) 388 Mt Abu 172 Puri 594-9, 596 Ramoji Film City 904 Northeast Tribal States 556 Puri Beach Festival 596 Rampur 291 Parvati Valley 298 Ramtek 777 scams 121, 183, 362, 388, 1156-7

Pushkar 139-45, 140 INDEX Puthe Maliga Palace Museum 922 Ranakpur 167-8 trekking 34 Puttaparthi 918 Ranchi 523-5 Sagar Island 478 Raneh Falls 632 Sai Baba 918 Rangdum 241 Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace) 158 P-S Q rangolis 1101 Sakti 273-4 Quepem 829 Rani Sati Temple 133-4 Salar Jung Museum 895 Quilon 936-8, 936 Ranikhet 436-7 Sambalpur 606 Qutb Minar 102 Ranthambhore National Park 145-7 Samdruptse 540 Qutb Shahi Tombs 896 Rath Yatra 596 Samudra Beach 931 Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid 102 609 Sanchi 639-42, 1136, 1138 Ravangla 541-2 Sangachoeling Gompa 545 R Raxaul 514 Sangam 377-9 Rabdentse 545 Rayagada 604 Sanganer 125-6 rabies 1191 Red Fort 60-1, 62-3, 66, 13, 60-1 Sangla 292 Rabongla, see Ravangla Rekong Peo 293, 343-4 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 756 radio 1162 religion 1081, 1106-13, see also Sankaram 913-14 rafting individual religions Sarahan 291-2 Darjeeling 492-3 reserves, see national parks, reserves saris 1102, 1130-1 Leh 250-1 & wildlife sanctuaries 130-2 Manali 310 responsible travel Sarnath 396-7, 397 Northeast Tribal States 568 environment 342, 811, 941 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 699-700 Orchha 620 religious sites 1112 Satapada 601 Rishikesh 420 shopping 1133 Satkosia Tiger Reserve 594 Wayanad district 973 trekking 34 Satna 633 West Bengal 477 wildlife 1147 Satpura National Park 643 Raghunath Temple 300 Rewalsar Lake 295-6 satras 562 Raghurajpur 599 rhinoceros 485, 558, 559, 593, 1147, 688-709 Raigad Fort 793 1148 scams 121, 183, 362, 388, 1156-7 Raipur 665-6 rice 1114-15 Sé Cathedral 807-8 Raj Ghat 67 rickshaws 1182 Secunderabad 894-907, 894, 896 Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum 786 Rishikesh 417-24, 418 accommodation 899 Rajaji National Park 416-17 Rizong 266-7 drinking 904-5 Rajasthan 48, 104-98, 106-7 road rules 1179-80 entertainment 904-5 food 901-3 climate 104 rock climbing 311, 433, 497, 882 internet access 905 festivals & events 105 Rock Fort Temple 1029 medical services 905 food 105 Ross Island 1071 shopping 905 highlights 106 roti 1115 sights 895-8 internet resources 105 Rozabal Shrine 233-4 tourist offices 906 travel seasons 104 Rumbak 262-3 travel to/from 906-7 Rajgir 521-2 Rumtek 536-7 travel within 907 704-6, 706 Self-Employed Women’s Association Rajpath 71-3 S (SEWA) 680 1091-2 Sabarmati Ashram 673 Senji, see Gingee Ralang 542 Sacred Heart Church 1014 Sevagram 777 Ram Janam Bhumi 376-7 safaris, see camel safaris, elephant Shalimar Bagh 235 Ram Rai Darbar 405 rides & safaris, wildlife safaris Sham 265-6 Ramabhar Stupa 398 Safdarjang’s Tomb 73-4 Shang 273 Ramadan 22 safe travel 1157, 1158-9, 1170-1 Shangri La 567 Ramanathaswamy Temple 1034 Bihar 509 Shankar’s International Dolls 1109 Darjeeling 497 Museum 77 Shantiniketan 479-80 skiing 21 Sumur 271-2 1226 Shargol 241 Gulmarg 239 Sun Temple 600 Shatrunjaya 690-1 Joshimath 427 Sunauli 399-400 shawls 304 Manali 311 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve Sheetalnathji Mandir 456 Narkanda 290 477-8 Shekhawati 132-5, 133 Smit 582 Sunehri Masjid 67 Shey 272 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Suraj Mahl’s Palace 129 579-82, 580 Sohra, see Cherrapunjee Surajkund 210 INDEX Shimla 282-9, 284-5 Solang Nullah 314-15 Surat 688 Shivneri 791 solo travellers 792, 1158-9 Suru Valley 241 Shivpuri 617 Solophuk 540-1 Survey of India Museum 405-6 S-T shopping 1124-33 Somnath 698-9 Swarg Niwas 419-20 language 1198, 1201-2 Somnathpur 861 Shore Temple 1003 Sonamarg 239-40 T Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Museum 793 Sonepur Mela 514 Tabo 343 Shri Krishna Temple 969 spas 35, 37 Tadoba-Andhari Reserve 777-8 Shri Omkar Mandhata 651-2 spices 868, 1114 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 776 Shri Padmanabhaswamy Temple 922 Spiti 336-44 Tagore, Rabindranath 454-5, 1139-40, Shri Trayanbakshwar 419-20 Spituk Gompa 262 1141 shrines, see tombs, shrines & Sravanabelagola 864 Taj Mahal 350-2, 353, 354-5, 356, mausoleums Sree Vallabha Temple 945 6, 354-5 Siat Khnam 579 Sri Aurobindo Ashram 1014 Taj Mahal Palace (Mumbai) 723, Sayid’s Mosque 673 Sri Durgiana Temple 214-15 736-7 Sidhibari 327-8 Sri Ekambaranathar Temple 1008-9 Taj-ul-Masjid 633 Sikh temples Sri Jambukeshwara Temple 1030 Takhtog 273-4 Anandpur Sahib 211 Sri Kalahasti 917 Tamil language 1200-2 Chetipacha Gurdwara 234 Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple 1015 Tamil Nadu 53, 981-1060, 983 Golden Temple 213, 1137, 13, 1136-7 Sri Meenakshi Temple 1036, 1135, climate 981 Gurdwara Bangla Sahib 73 1134-5 festivals & events 982, 984 Gurdwara Fatehgarh Sahib 211 Sri Ramana Ashram 1013 food 982 Sri Guru Nanak Ji Gurdwara 299 Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple 1029-30 highlights 983 Sri Guru Singh Sabha Gurdwara 283 Srinagar 231-8, 232 internet resources 982 Sikhism 1110-11, 1137 Sripuram Golden Temple 1010 travel seasons 981 Sikkim 50, 526-49, 528 Srirangapatnam 860-61 Tamil people 992 climate 526 St Francis Church 953 Tangtse 275-6 festivals & events 527 St Stephen’s Church 1052-3 Tanjore, see Thanjavur food 527 Stakna Gompa 273 Tapkeshwar Temple 406 highlights 528 STDs 1191 Tapovan 327-8 internet resources 527 step-wells 679 Taragarh Fort (Ajmer) 137 permits 529-30 stings 1193-4 Taragarh Fort (Bundi) 148 travel seasons 526 Stok Palace 262 Taragarh Palace 330 Siliguri 482-4 street food 1118 Tarkarli 780 Similipal National Park 606-7 stupas, see also Buddhist temples, Tashiding 548-9 gompas, monasteries Singalila Ridge Trek 498-9 Tashijong Gompa 330 Amaravathi 915 Singh, Manmohan 1082 Tattapani 289-90 Chaukhandi 396 Singhik 538-9 tattoos 566 Dehra Dun 404 Sinhagad 791 Tawang Valley 569-70 Dhamekh 396 Sinquerim 812-13 taxis 1182, 1183 Kesariya 514 Sirhind 211 tea 7, 9, 439, 1120, 7, 9 Leh 248 Sirpur 665 Darjeeling 475, 490, 492 Nalanda 523 Sis Ganj 211 Jorhat 561-2 Ramabhar Stupa 398 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari West Bengal 486 Ashram 927-8 Sanchi 639-41, 1136, 1138 teaching 42-3 Sivasagar 563 Vishwashanti Stupa 521 telephone services 15, 1171-2 Sivasamudram 862 Submarine Museum 911 temples 16, 1134-8, see also Buddhist Sulabh International Museum of temples, Hindu temples, Jain 000 Map pages Toilets 77 temples, Sikh temples 000 Photo pages Sule Bazaar 879 Bahai House of Worship (Lotus Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 210-11 Temple) 75 Bishnupur 479 Bibi-qa-Maqbara 764-5 Tashiding 547 Pattadakal 886 Chhoti Dargah 514 Wayanad district 973 1227 tempos 1182 Chini-ka-Rauza 357 West Bengal 477 Tezpur 558-9 Chota Imambara 371 Yuksom 547 Thanesar, see Kurukshetra Dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Zanskar 242, 252-3 Thanggu 540 Chishti 136-7 Tribal Cultural Museum 786 Thanjavur 1025-9, 1026 Golgumbaz 887 tribal peoples 667, 668, 1104 Tharpa Choling Gompa 500-1 Hoshang’s Tomb 655 Andaman Islands 1066 INDEX Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 951 Humayun’s Tomb 67-8 Arunachal Pradesh 565 theyyam 975, 976 Itimad-ud-Daulah 357 Bastar 668 Thiksey Gompa 272 Job Charnock 449-50 Brokpa 267 Thiruvalluvar 988 Khusru Bagh 379-80 Manipur 573 T-U Thiruvananthapuram 922-7, 924 Mahabat Maqbara 702 Nicobar Islands 1066 Thongsa Gompa 501 Mausoleum of Sher Shah 516 Nilgiri 1054 Thotlakonda 913 Naqshband Sahib 234 Odisha 605 Thrissur 967-9, 968 Paigah Tombs 897 Trichur, see Thrissur Tibet Pir Dastgir Sahib 233 Trichy 1029-33, 1029, 1030 amchi 321 Qutb Shahi Tombs 896 Trimbakeshwar Temple 764 Dalai Lama 36, 315, 317, 320 Ram Rai Darbar 405 Tripunithura 966 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology 530 Rozabal Shrine 233-4 576-9 Norbulingka Institute 328 Taj Mahal 350-2, 353, 354-5, 356, Trivandrum 922-7, 924 Tibet House 75 6, 354-5 TseChokLing Gompa 319 Tibetan exiles 320 Tomb of Fateh Khan 482 Tso Moriri 276-7 Tibetan government 315, 317 Tomb of Tansen 616 Tsomgo Lake 537 Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre tourist information 1172, see also Tsopta Valley 540 491 individual locations Tsuglagkhang 316-17 tiffins 744 tours 1185, see also individual tuberculosis 1191 1146-7, 1148 locations, boat tours Tughlaqabad 103 Bandhavgarh National Park 662-4 train travel 31-2, 1185-7, 8 Tuophema 571-2 Betla (Palamau) National Park 525 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway turtles 603, 811, 823, 832, 1075, 1076 Corbett Tiger Reserve 430-2 491, 498 TV 1162 Kanha National Park 661-2 Kangra Valley Toy Train 330 typhoid 1191-2 Madhya Pradesh 613 travel to/from India 1175-7 Manas National Park 558 travel within India 1177-87 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 864 trekking 21-2, 33-4, see also U Pench Tiger Reserve 664 mountaineering Udaigiri Caves 642 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 945 Bharmour 336 Udaipur 154-66, 156 Ranthambhore National Park 145 Darjeeling 498-9 accommodation 160-2 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 756 Gaumukh 425-6 activities 158-9 Sariska Tiger Reserve 130-1 Goa 832-3 drinking 164 Satkosia Tiger Reserve 594 Hamta Pass 314 entertainment 164 644 Hem Kund 428-9 festivals & events 160 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 477-8 Joshimath 427 food 162-4 Tadoba-Andhari Reserve 776, 777-8 Kalimpong 504 internet access 164 Tikjuk 543 Khangchendzonga Trek 548 medical services 164-5 time 1172 Kodagu 866 shopping 164 tipping 1169 Kuari Pass 430 tourist offices 165 Tipu Sultan’s Palace 842 Ladakh 252-3, 277 tours 159-60 Tiruchirappalli, see Trichy Leh 251 Udaipur City Palace 155-8 Tirumala 915-17 Manali 311 Udaipur (Tripura) 578 Tirupathi 915-17 Markha Valley 263 Udayagiri 609 Tiruvannamalai 1012-13 McLeod Ganj 320-1, 328 Udayagiri Caves 590 toilets 1161, 1172 Milam Glacier 440-1 Udhagamandalam, see Ooty Tollywood 904 Mt Abu 171 Udupi 873 tombs, shrines & mausoleums Ooty 1054 646-8, 646 Ahmedabad 673 Pindari Glacier 440 Ujjayanta Palace 576 Akbar’s Mausoleum 357 Pin-Parvati Valley 299 Uletokpo 266-7 Bahmani Tombs 890 Rishikesh 420-1 Ullal Beach 870 Bara Imambara 370-1 Sikkim 529 Umaid Bhawan Palace 175 Umananda Mandir 554 Victoria Terminus (Chhatrapati Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 484-5 1228 Undavalli Cave Temples 914 Shivaji Terminus) 726, 10 Pench Tiger Reserve 664 Untouchables, see Dalits Vidisha 642 Ranthambhore National Park 145 Uparkot Fort 701 Vijay Vilas Palace 715 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 756 Uttar Pradesh 49, 345-400, 348-9 Vijayanagar empire 1090 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 699 climate 345 Vijayawada 914-15 Satpura Tiger Reserve 644 festivals & events 346 vikrams 1182 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 972-5 food 346 vipassana 763-4 wildlife sanctuaries, see national INDEX highlights 348 Virupaksha Temple 878 parks, reserves & wildlife internet resources 346 Visakhapatnam 911-13 sanctuaries travel seasons 345 visas 15, 1173-4, see also permits wine 762

V-Z Uttarakhand 49, 401-41, 403 Vishwanath Temple 388 women in India 680, 1104-5 climate 401 Vishwashanti Stupa 521 women travellers 1158-9, 1194 festivals & events 402 Vittala Temple 878-9 food 402 Vivekananda Memorial 1041 Y highlights 403 volunteering 39-44 Yamunotri Temple 426 internet resources 402 Bhopal 637 Yapola Valley 267-8 travel seasons 401 Kolkata 458 Yiga Choling Gompa 490 Uttarkashi 425 Maharashtra 778 yoga 35, 37-8 McLeod Ganj 323 Anjuna 818-9 Spiti 342 Calangute 814 V Tibet 323 vacations 1170 Delhi 78-9 Vrindavan 369-70, 368 Goa 799 vaccinations 1188, 1189 International Yoga Festival Vadakkunathan Kshetram Temple 967 (Puducherry) 1015 Vadodara 684-7, 686 W Wandoor 1071 International Yoga Festival Vagator 821-3, 821 Warangal 909-11 (Rishikesh) 421 Vaikunta Perumal Temple 1009-10 Ward’s Lake 579 Isha Yoga Center 1050 Vaishali 514 water, drinking 1192 Kolkata 458 Vajpayee, Atal Bihari 1081 water sports, see also individual Maharashtra 758 Valley of Flowers 428-9 sports McLeod Ganj 320, 321 Valluvar Kottam 988 Baga 813 Mumbai 731-2 Varanasi 383-96, 384, 386, 7 Calangute 813 Mysore 856 accommodation 390-2 Devbagh 873 Palolem 832 activities 388-9 Malpe 873 Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga drinking 393-4 Wayanad District 974 Institute 787 entertainment 393-4 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 972-5 Rishikesh 420 food 392-3 weather 14, see also individual Sivandanda Yoga Vedanta internet services 394 locations Dhanwantari Ashram 927-8 medical services 394 climate change 1152-3 Varanasi 389 shopping 394 weaving 326, 437, 653, 705, 713, 714, Yuksom 546-8 sights 385-8 768, 1131 Yumthang Valley 539 tourist offices 395 weddings 24, 1102 Yurutse 262-3 tours 390 weights 1162 travel to/from 395 West Bengal 50, 474-505, 476 Z travel within 396 climate 474 Zanskar 241-3 Varca 831 festivals & events 475 Zingchen 262 Varkala 932-6, 934 food 475 Ziro Valley 565-6 Vashisht 313-14, 306 highlights 476 zoos internet resources 475 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary Himalayan Zoological Park 531 travel seasons 474 1008 Junagadh 702 Western Ghats 945-52, 1044-60 Vedh Shala 647 Kolkata 457 Wild Ass Sanctuary 716-17 Vellore 1010-11 Mysore 855 wildlife 21, 1146-50, see also Venkateshwara Temple 916 Nainital 433 individual animals Veraval 697-8, 697 Nandankanan Zoological Park 593-4 wildlife safaris 11, 19, 11 Victoria Memorial 446-7 National Zoological Gardens 75 Bandhavgarh National Park 662-4 Padmaja Naidu Himalayan 000 Map pages Bandipur National Park 865 Zoological Park 491 000 Photo pages Betla (Palamau) National Park Thiruvananthapuram 922 525 Zoroastrianism 1113 1229

These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Sights Festivals & Events Entertainment Look out for 1 z 3 these icons: 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping Our author’s o recommendation Courses Eating Information/ C 5 8 Transport No payment F required T Tours 6 Drinking A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Beach Entertainment Tollway International Buddhist Freeway State/Province Castle Shopping Primary Disputed Shopping Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park Islamic Bank Lane Cliff Jewish Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Steps Hydrography River, Creek Ruin Internet Tunnel Intermittent River Winery/Vineyard Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Zoo Post Office Overpass Reef Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Canal Toilet Walking Tour Water Activities, Courses Tourist Information Detour Dry/Salt/ & Tours Other Information Path Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier Skiing Airport Hut/Shelter Surfing Border Crossing Lighthouse Areas Beach/Desert Swimming/Pool Bus Lookout Walking Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano Cemetery Windsurfing Funicular Oasis (Christian) Other Activity/ Cycling Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry Pass Park/Forest Sleeping Metro Picnic Area Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground Camping Parking Sight (Building) Petrol Station Population Eating Capital (National) Taxi Top Sight Eating Capital Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Tram Drinking City/Large Town Drinking Other Transport Town/Village Cafe ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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