SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, ETC., IN SKYE. 373

V. NOTES OF SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, AN UNDESCRIBED SYMBOL STONE, STANDING STONES, BROCHS, AND OTHER ANTI- QUITIES IN SKYE FREDY B . . T. MACLEOD, F.S.A. SCOT. presene sprine th th f n go I t year, Isle whil visif Skyea th e o n o et o t , I too opportunite kth f inspectino y g four burial-grounds \vithi radiuna s of 16 miles of Castle—at , Kilmuir (Dunvegan), , and Glendale. In each case my search was rewarded by the discovery of several stones of considerable interest, and furthes, in the cases of Glendale, Trumpan, and Skeabost, by the discovery of an ancient copan-baistidh, or baptismal font. In general characteristics the Skye burial-grounds do not differ from thos n othei e r parishes. Unkemp d neglectean t d places, situated in the midst of barren moorland, or upon some rocky headland, they form a striking contrast to our city cemeteries.

SKEABOST BUKIAIJ-GBOUND. Skeabost burial-groun s situatedi d withi a nstone's-thro f Skeaboswo t Bridge post office, abou mile6 t s from . Adjacen t i ther o t et are ruins which indicate the existence in early times of a church of considerable sizd importancean e e burial-grounth e sitf o Th e . d itself is upon land which, under normal conditions, is a small peninsula, but whic timen hi f heavso y flood d severan s e weathe s quicklri y converted into an island. The absence of access in times of flood involves great self-sacrifice, whe e coffinth n s have f necessityo , e e bornth b y o t b e, followers through water many feet deep. firse tTh ston f intereso e I fount d monumentaa hers ewa l slab with a full-length effigy in relief, resting in a recumbent position in a little square building , e timewhicon t , a hobviously , formee d th par f o t church. The stone was of such a size and the effigy stood out in such strong relie s impossiblf wa tha t i t o procurt e ea rubbin d f ito gan ; ,374 PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH 9Y F , O S1910 MA , .

e buildin confineo th s s d darwa gan d k tha a satisfactort y photograph e obtainedb coul t e sculptureno dTh . n i dn figurma a s thai ef o t armour, both hands grasping a sword of considerable size. Just outside this little building was another monumental slab, so much broken that it was impossible to recognise anything except that it contained a similar figure of a warrior grasping a sword. About twenty south-wese yardth o st thira s dwa t monumen f similao t r e besth tr design a specimefa n e i threey e ston th b s , Th f wa o e.n

Fig. 1. Slab with Effigy at Skeabost.

recumbent position, but I had it lifted on end and photographed (fig- I)- The figure of the man in armour is enclosed in a Gothic niche, and is excellently carved in the usual style of the West Highland effigies. This monument (as doubtless also the other two) was doing duty to mark a not very ancient burial, and on it there were comparatively modern initials, whichinformeds wa I , , refefamila o t rMacSweensf yo . Ther alss ei o another stone carve primitiva n di curioud ean s manner, to whic interestinn ha g traditio s attached i nrecumbena s i t I . t monu- men n memor i t s kille e carve a bull a womawa y Th f b do .o y d wh n figur e skeleto thas th i e f womana o tbein x f no se ge indicateth , e th y db SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, ETC., IN SKYE. 375

presenc f whao e t appear"mutcha e b o st " roun e skulleithen dth O . r e skeletoth sid f hoof-marko eo tw n carvee ar s indicato dt mannee eth r of death. Having been informed that an ancient copan-baistidh or baptismal beefond ha tn see n thii n s burial-ground I mad, e inquiries located an , d the place where it lay. Until comparatively recently it was entire, but now e weathe , e th effecowin th f d neglect o o tan t rgs gradualli t i , y s simpli breakin t I a rough-hewy . up g n hollowed-out stone, wito n h ornamentation.

Tig . Kilmui2 . r Burying-grovmd.

KlLMUIB BUBIAL-GROUND. This burial-groun s situatei d risinn o d g land overlooking Dunvegan Loch, about three hundred yards from the hotel, on the left-hand side of the road leading to Portree. Here there are also the roofless ruins of an old church (fig. 2). Above one of the entrances is the date 1694, but, judging fro e obviou msomf th o e emonumentae sag 'o th f l stonen i s close proximity ,little therb n e edoubca t that burial-grouna ther s ewa d long anterio thao t r t date. Local tradition indicates thae presenth t t ruined church, is not the original church erected upon the site, and that e burial-grounth s muci d h d earlieol n e dateportioe i r th On f . o n 6 37 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE TH 9 Y , F 1910O SMA , .

building has been enclosed with railings, and now forms the burial- ground of the of Dunvegan. One portion of this enclosed building bears the date 1836, at which time evidently this portion of the old church was reserved as the burial-place of the MacLeod family. adjacene th n I t churchyard well-knowe therth s ei n monument (fig) 3 . erecte Simoy b d n Erase f Lovao r n memori ts father hi o die f o ywh d,

Lovae Th . t 3 Monumen . Kg t Kilmuira t .

in in 1699, when on a visit to the chief of that day. The inscription;(whic interestinn a s hi g one carves )i marbla n do e slab, which unfortunately, some years ago, was broken across. The monu- ment generall s becominwa y g e ruinouspresenth t bu t, chies ha f renovate d replacean e t i inscriptiondth d e monumentTh . . is t i , believed, was erected in or about 1699. There are three interesting recumbent slabs in this churchyard. One e memor th e Rev th o t f . o s yi Norma n Macleods ministewa o f o rwh , SCULPTUKED MONUMENTAL SLABS, 7 ETC. 37 SKYEN I , .

Durinish about 150 years ago. Another (fig. 4) is to the memory of a member of the MacLeod family, on which the various emblems are well indicated e thira recumben Th s i d. t stone whicf o , hI too rubbinka g s finel. i 379)p (fig t , I 5 y.. sculpture n reliefdi , havin ga lon g sword with lobated pomme reversed an l d quillon e centreth n si , surroundey db foliage ornament, designed more naturalistically than steme usualth r , fo , from one side of which the branches proceed, goes up the left-hand side e slaboth f , quite margine closth o et , bends sharply across the topd an ,

Fig. 4. Recumbent Slab with Emblems at Kilmuir.

proceeds reversely dow e right-hanth n d side s angle showa ,th t ey a nb which the branches on that side meet the stem. There are one or two other old stones of interest which I had not time to examine, one in particular being, I am informed, the oldest in the churchyard, and representing, among other things, an angel holding an open book. In examining the old stones, I was surprised to find tha a goot d e ornamenta manth f o y l portion e churcth f so h have been utilised to form the bases upon which rest many of the recumbent stones. Burials froe surroundinmth g districts, embracinr o n radiua g te f o s twelve miles e stilar ,l commo n thii n s churchyard A somewha. t 8 37 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE , 19109 TH Y F . O SMA ,

striking featur n connectioi e n with burial n thii s s place s alsa n , i o connection with burials in other churchyards in Skye, is the fact that there are no recognised gravediggers, nor is a grave prepared prior to arrivae funerae th th f o l l partymemberr e custofo Th s i .thim o y t ssda e deceased'oth f s famil d friendyan s themselvegrave th eg aftedi o t rs the arrival of the body at the churchyard, and to do all the necessary offices which'jare performed by recognised officials in districts on the mainland. It may be mentioned that Boswell records the fact that during the visit of Dr Johnson and himself to Dunvegan in 1773 he wa a witness e identicath o t s l practic o whict e I hhav e just referred. Upwards of 100 years prior thereto, the kirk-session of Rothesay recognised the inconvenience of such a proceeding, and passed a minute ordainin e "hockinggth f grave"o s e arriva e corpsprioth th r f o t ro el fo burial. It is a somewhat striking circumstance that a practice which was condemned as far back as 1660 in one district of the Western Islands should remai e recogniseth n d metho f proceduro de th n i e year 1910.

TRUMP AN BURIAL-GROUND. This burial-ground, still used for interments, is situated about 13 mile4 o1 r s north-wes f Dunvegano t e nearesth , t villag t i bein o t eg Stein, in the district of . In this case also there are ruins of an old church (fig. 6, p. 380). It is difficult to conceive a situation more remote and more exposed, commanding, as it does, a magnificent sea-view and a considerable portion of the coast of Skye. There are here two recumbent stone f considerablso e interest f whico , hI too k rubbings. e centrth n i a Onetwo-hande s e ha (fig ) 7 . d sword with straight quillons, terminating in rosettes. The top of the stone above the sword a squar s ha e desig f foliageo n , with eight branches radiating froma common centre n eitheO .e rsword-hil th sid f o e e nondescripar t t animals, whose tail e prolongear s d int oa wav y scrol f foliageo l , with large leafage proceeding down each side of the blade to the bottom of the stone.

380 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 9, 1910.

The other stone (fig. 8) is a more elaborate monument, evidently commemorating an ecclesiastic, who is shown fully vested, and with

Fig. 0. Trumpaii Church.

Fig. 9. "Baptismal Font" at Trumpan. hands joinel in the attitude of prayer, standing in a Gothic niche, which surmountes i circla y f foliagdb eo e ornament. I also observed an undressed boulder or standing stone, with a hole in it, to which a certain interest attaches. Tho tradition of the

2 38 PROCEEDING E SOCIETY , 19109 TH Y F .O SMA ,

countr s thai y t those peopl wero wh e desirou f knowino s g whether t theiono r r soul se future saveth h wer n o i t ed shut their eyes and advanced with outstretched finger from a distance of several feet towards this hole. If they succeeded in finding the hole with their finger a sur, e s thaetakeh wa indicatioo tt n f o salvationn . It was also used as a "swearing" stone. After searching for a con- siderable time I found a copan-baistidh or baptismal font in excellent preservatio n . 380)f similap (figo , 9 d . .an r constructio thao nt t founn i d Skeabost. This burial-ground possesses considerable interesf to because on f o e the most persistent and widely known traditions current in the Island of Skye in connection with the burning of Trumpan church. The tradition is that a party of worshipping Macleods were surprised by a part f invadino y g Macdonalds e latteTh .r secure e buildingth d , con- fined the worshippers, and thereafter set fire to the building, with the result, tradition says, that only one person escaped, namely, a woman, who succeede througy forcine n windowsd wa i oe th fr s i on hhe gt I . said that she managed to crawl a certain distance, when she expired on the moor. To this day the spot where she expired bears the name of Margaret's Bog. The tradition further states that the Macdonalds, ere they had returned to their boats, were surprised by a party of Macleods, wit resule hth t thae Macdonaldth t s were defeated with great slaughter. The successful Macleods arranged the bodies of the vanquished under- neat htura f dyke, and simpla s ,a e mean f effectinso g burial, overturned dyke th e upo corpsese nth e sit eTh .wher e Macdonaldth e buriee li s d bear f e nam"o Milleadth s thio y t e da s h Garaidh," which meane th s destructio walle th f . o n Quite recentl s informewa nativa yI y db f o e the distric occasioe t on tha n o t ns diggin whewa e nh g abou localite th t y of this dyk e camh e e acros a humas n skull. Trumpan churchyars i d als f intereso o t becaus e face reputeth th t f s thao ei dt i t burial-placf eo the unfortunate Lady Grange. While her body was buried by stealth n thii s lonely churchyard a coffi, n filled with stone d s sodan swa s ostentatiously buried in Dunvegan churchyard, SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, ETC.3 38 SKYEN I , .

KlLCHOAN BUKIAL-GROUND, GrLENDALK This burial-groun situates di Glendalen di , abou mile9 t roay sb d from Dunvegan. There are two items of interest here : first, an ancient font, similar to those already described; and second, an erect stone over a modern grave, which is quite evidently a recumbent monumental slab of some consequence. The slab itself (fig. 10, p. 381) is peculiar in shape, havin triangulaga r terminatio e bottom borderes th i t t a nI rola . y ldb moulding all round, which is imperfectly shown by the rubbing. The principal figure on the slab is that of a sword in the centre, having a lobated pommel and reversed quillons. Over the hilt of the sword, in the space between it and the top of the stone, is the figure of a man seate d playin e spacan d th e harp eth gn I abov. e e quilloth th e n o n right-han e figur a mande hilth f sidth s o i tef , eo apparentl n ecclesii y - astical vestments d holdin s righan ,hi n ti g hand whaa t seeme b o t s crosier, the crook of which is faintly indicated in the rubbing. Below the quillon, on the same side, is a chalice, and below that three panels, one otherf squarth eo f d oblono s ean g e shapelefte spacth -Th n o e. hand side of the sword is occupied by a running scroll of foliage. There are no indications, beyond a slight accumulation of stones in the centrchurchyarde th f eo f thero , e having bees a churchnwa I t bu , informed tha e stoneth t s whic t presena h t for e boundary-walmth f o l the churchyard were taken from the churchyard itself, which, and the presence th fac f o tr man efo y generation e ancienth f o s t baptismal font, point to the former existence of a church. According to the Origines Parochiales and Bishop Forbes' Calendar of Scottish Saints, Kilchoan in Glendale was dedicated to St Congan, brother of St Kentigerna, the mothe s t alsFillanS wa o f o s Kilchoara ,o tw e n nStrathi th d an , Kilchoan Ardnamurchan si Knoydartd nan . The local traditioorigie name th th thaf s o ei nt o s tna Choan princa , e of Danish blood, while engaged upoe Wester th a nrai o t d n Isles, perishe Mainisn di h e fring Bayth f whicn o e,o h Kilchoan churchyars di situated n ancienA . t tree still remains, which, accordin o traditiont g , 4 38 PROCEEDING THF O SE SOCIETY, MA , 1910Y9 .

mark e sposth t where Choa s buriedwa n . Choa s stil i nn objec a l f o t superstitious fear among the people of Glendale. The story goes liveo e occasioon wh dtha e churchyard n n closth o n olt a nma o d t e , being anxiou o prevent s s henhi t s from doing damag s newlyhi o t e - planted seed, went to the churchyard and removed some of the branches e treth ofe upo e sitf th Choan'o ne se dea graveth f nigh o dn I .t s awakene wa e sudde e th n poo th y ma b rdn entranc a mysteriou f o e s spectre, who, with uplifted han d menacinan d g gesture, demandeo t d

Fig . Standin11 . g Stone near Skeabost Bridge.

kno s resting-plac e reasohi w th y nwh d bee ha edisturbedo s n fean I .r explainen ma d store e reasonol th d th e yd th goe an ,forces s wa tha de h t returo t n wit e spirihth f Choao t d replacan n e brancheth e s whice h had removed, under the threat of dire catastrophe.

STANDING STONE WITH INCISED SYMBOLS. Having been informed whe t Skeabosna t tha t a standin thers wa e g stone known as Glach Ard in the moor not far distant, upon which there were traces of circles, I went and examined the stone (fig. 11). It is situated abou mile2 t s north-eas Skeabosf to t Bridge standd ,an slightln so y rising ground, entirely b-rougha y s i itself t I , undresse. d boulder stone, bearing upo face non e distinct indication f whaso e b t o appearet e m o dt SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, ETC. N SKYE,I . 385 e symboth l knowe double-disth s a n d zigzaan c e gth floriatef o d ro d sculptured stoneease th tf coasso f Scotlando t e rubbingTh . , however, showed t firsa t t ,no apparen whas e stoneth wa t n ,o t that there were two symbols incised upon it (fig. 12) — the crescent, with the V-shaped

. «5K?.v, i»** .-*'- •• • '

Fig. Symbol12 . Stone th n eso near Skeabost Bridge.

floriate towardd dro uppee sth e rstone parth underneatd f o an t, e th t i h symbol with the two discs and zigzag floriated rod. Unfortunately the left-hand lower portio s beeha n n completely broken off, thus rendering the lower of the two discs incomplete. I understand that this is the first occasio whicn no h these symbols have been noticee Islf th o e n i d Skye I coul. d gathe locao n r l history attache thio dt s stone. VOL. XLIV. 25 386 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 9, 1910.

PLAIN STANDING STONES. I took photographs of two standing stones (figs. 13-14) a mile or two distant, each situated within a few yards of the other, facing the sea. Therornamentatioo n s ei n upon either stonelane s cultivateTh di . n do all sides except between the stones and the sea, where there are distinct remains of a rampart, now turfed over.

CIST. Having been informed that a few years ago workmen had come across a stone chamber containing e midsbonesa fair-sizeth f o n ti , d cairn Glasse,m knowo awayCa tw a mils a I nr visite, o e e d spoth dan t located the cist. Roughly taken, the measurements were 3 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet. The cist was formed of flat stones on end, with a covering- stone, which was broken by the workmen at the time of the discovery. I conversed with one of the workmen, who informed me that no implements or pottery of any kind were found.

THE BBOCH AT DUNOSDALE. . This is one of many similar brochs scattered over the western main- land of and the Western Islands. So far as I have been able o ascertaint e brochth , n Skyei s f whico , h ther e severalar e , havt no e been particularly noted. Speaking generally, thos I ehav e examined l possesal s similar features, being place n risino d g land, mor r leso e s precipitou n three o gatheresb en sidesca s da ,fro r andfa m o s thei, r present ruinous condition f theo r witl m (o n al occasiona, a h l exception) e morsam th r les o f ee o s circumference e brocTh t Dunosdala h. s i e situated on a knoll on the left-hand side of the road leading from Dunvega o Glendalet n , abou 3 milet s from Dunvegan villaget I . overlooks Dunvega s ninformed wa ha Locha perso I o y b d. wh n visite e brocdth h some years ago. whe a les n nsi ruinous condition, that e portioe bace circlentrancth e th th kt th t f a a e o n(treatins ewa e gth front as that portion facing Dunvegan Loch). The portion at the back SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, ETC., IN SKYE. 387

is the only portion which, assuming the configuration of the ground to be the same to-day as it was in the days when the broch was occupied, required protective defences therd distince an , ear t indication f rampartso s

Fig. 13. Standing Stone.

Fig. 14. Standing Stone.

at -this place. I have not taken any measurements, owing to the fact withous thawa I t t assistance, but, speaking generally e circulath , r wall is in some places at least 6 or 7 feet high, and of considerable thickness. In what was originally the central courtyard, and also round the base of 8 38 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE , 19109 TH Y F .O SMA ,

the external wall, there are considerable numbers of tumbled-down stones. When one takes these facts into consideration, and the further fact that it has been the practice for generations past for the crofting community to construct their houses and their marches out of the materia f whico l h these brochs wer fairly e ma builty e assumon , e that thi sf considerabl o broc s hwa e height. Thert leasa e chambe s i on et r which can be distinctly traced, indicative of a guard-chamber, complete t formin no itselfn i d an portioga , gallerya f no . Ther e alsar eo certain flat stones which indicat e existencth e a galler f o e y running through the thickness of the walls. I have been more than once informed that, withi livingw recollectioe nth no n , thid e otherSkyme th f an s n o f e o s brochs were in a much better state of preservation, and that there were well-formed galleries, whic schoolboye hth s use deligho dt penetrateo t t . It may be of interest to note that Mr Mackenzie, factor for MacLeod of MacLeod, a brocinforme f o he neam d r Struan, whic s e saih wa d in excellent condition, because of the fact that there are few crofters' dwelling e vicinityth n d therefor i se saman ,th t e no opportunite r fo y its demolition. He further mentioned the existence of two ancient tumuli, near Eoag whic t hbee havye nt investigatedeno Mackenzie'r M . s belief is that if a proper and systematic investigation were made of these tumuli e brochs th d als f an o o, , many interesting relics would be found. N HALLANDU . This broch (fig. 15 s differeni ) t from e otherislandth n i s, in respect of it being the smallest in diameter of any I have seen. It is situated in Waternish, and is easily recognised from the road between Dunvegan and opportunit o Trumpann d ha I takmeasurements.o y t ean . There is one distinct chamber on the right-hand side of the entrance, and indications of one corresponding on the left-hand side. The entrance e broc th e cas t f th Dunosdalea he o broche n sidth e i th o s et a ,n o s i , furthest from the road. The broch occupies the top of a knoll, which is pretty steep on three sides. Another difference is that, so far as I could gather, there was but one single wall, 8 or 9 feet in thickness. SCULPTURED MONUMENTAL SLABS, ETC. SKYEN I , 9 38 . *' e othe th e cas f th r Ao e n brochs si e internath , l courtyar filleds di with a great mas debris of smasonr The . thiof y s broch wil as ,see be l n from the photograph, is at least 14 feet in height, and the stones are symmetrically placed one on the top of each other, without any cementing t oncsubstancea s i e e weighe strucd sizth On an e y f .individua b ko t l stones.

. FigBroc15 . Duf ho n Hallan, Skye.

While on the subject of brochs, I may mention that I also visited Dun , situated about 3 miles due west from Dunvegan Castle, and Dun , about 4 miles from Dunosdale, on the same side e samth of e road t furthebu , r froe roadmth , which possess charac- teristics closely resembling those brochs I have noted. ' I also saw in distance th n SkirinisheDu districe th n f i Borve,o t ,mile 6 abou r o s5 t west of Portree, and heard of others in the island.