IRELAND 2019

www.liberoguide.com 2019 www.liberoguide.com in t r o

connections to surrounding towns. Direct

Tallaght Stadium services from Airport also run to most cities and main towns.

With 2018 champions losing features four clubs from the capital. Since pitch. Local support is equally passionate State-owned Bus Éireann has the manager Stephen Kenny after the most the days of the A Division in 1921-22, in , though major silverware has not most comprehensive and competitively successful period in the club’s history, Shamrock Rovers are record champions been won since the last-gasp FAI Cup win priced public-transport network around City keen to wrest back the title and – but last won the title in 2011. of 2013. Ireland, reaching areas bereft of any rail FC revived under ambitious connection. Tickets can be purchased in owner Lee Power, the Fellow Southsiders St Patrick’s Athletic For the intrepid groundhopper, Ireland is advance, online. Premier Division is perfectly poised for hired Rovers legend Harry Kenny as the perfect destination, with affordable, 2019. coach to get the side back in pay-on-the-day admission, bars at many Seven grounds, including Waterford Sister company Dublin Bus covers the Europe. While the redevelopment saga grounds and an easy-going atmosphere and Dublin’s and UCD Bowl, capital, complemented by the Luas light The domination of the domestic game by of venerable drags on, at most matches. And while some will be hosting the Euro Under-17 rail and DART coastal train, operated by Dublin clubs has been consigned to the Bohemians remain mired in mid-table. facilities may need improving, the game Championships in May 2019, a total of state-owned Irish Rail, Iarnród Éireann. past. Since Ireland’s switch to summer here isn’t a sanitised product played out 32 games, including qualification for the soccer in 2003, almost as many provincial Renamed after influential club captain for the profit of some offshore oligarch. Under-17 World Cup in October. Rail travel is generally dearer and less sides have been crowned champions. Ryan McBride, who passed away This is football at its most raw and, extensive around Ireland, though this is suddenly in 2017, City’s Brandywell possibly, romantic – what other reason Station to stadium changing. The journey between Dublin With the promotion of University College Stadium is now redeveloped, with an could there be to visit , home of There are half-a-dozen airports in Ireland and Cork is now a comfortable experience Dublin in 2018, the ten-team top division impressive main stand and a 3G artificial the once mighty Finn Harps? with links to the UK and regular bus and online ticket deals can be attractive.

liberoguide.com 1 IRELAND 2019 www.liberoguide.com in

derry t r

ballybofey o

UCD sligo rounds. The 20 League of Ireland clubs dundalk enter at the Second Round stage, plus four teams from Ireland’s lower leagues, given a bye as the draw is made.

dublin The three main regional leagues of

Cork City Leinster, Munster and Ulster form a de facto third tier but there is no direct promotion or relegation with Motorways connect Dublin with all major penalties decide if aggregate scores are the League of Ireland, whose reserve towns. Distances are given in kilometres level. sides compete at this level. The Ulster and toll charges are paid in cash. Senior League mainly features sides Clubs play each other four times in a from . Teams from these Tables & trophies 36-game season. three regional leagues compete in their The League of Ireland consists of two Waterford own knock-out tournament, the FAI divisions, Premier and First, of ten clubs The 2019 Premier Division champions Intermediate Cup, previously known as in each. gain access to the first qualifying round the FAI Qualifying Cup. of the Champions League 2020-21. cork Alongside, the LoI runs four youth Teams finishing second and third enter The 16 that reached the Fourth Round in divisions, at U19, U17, U15 and, as of the first qualifying round of the Europa the previous season’s competition go into 2019, U13 levels. League for the same season. the First Round of the senior FAI Cup. decided by yet another meeting of raising President’s Cup a week before They are joined by the four semi-finalists At senior level, at the end of the season, The winners of the FAI Cup join them goal Cork City and Dundalk in front of the regular league season. from the FAI Junior Cup, a wide-reaching the team bottom of the Premier swaps – or the fourth-placed side nips in if a 30,000-plus crowd at Dublin’s Aviva amateur tournament involving some 600 places with the winners of the First. the trophy goes to a team finishing Stadium. The FAI Cup is decided over one-leg ties, teams. Runners-up play off with ninth-placed above it. Ireland’s main knock-out including the semi-finals, with replays finishers from the Premier over two tournament, currently sponsored by FAI Cup holders and LoI champions from the quarter-final stage onwards, Of these 20 clubs, four receive byes to legs, home and away. Extra-time and the Irish Daily Mail, was most recently traditionally meet at the curtain- extra time and penalties in earlier the Second Round of the FAI Cup.

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Shamrock Rovers in t r o

Au Celtique

Aviva Stadium CONTENTS supporters usually have their own 4-6 Dublin turnstile and area of the ground. 7 The final of the FAI Intermediate Cup and 2003. The 2019 season kicked off on Saturday night fixture. Town 8 Bohemians FAI Junior Cup are now both played at Friday, February 15 and runs until the prefer 7.30pm, Ramblers 7pm. Welcome to liberoguide.com! 9 St Patrick’s Athletic the Aviva Stadium. end of October, bookended by the FAI The digital travel guide for football 10 Shamrock Rovers Cup final on November 3. Entry level fans, liberoguide.com is the most 11 UCD There is one more knock-out trophy, At most grounds, admission is cash-only up-to-date resource, city-by-city, club- 12 Ballybofey involving the 20 senior teams and There’s a short mid-summer break the at the turnstiles, prices around €15, €10 by-club, to the game across Europe. 13 Finn Harps four invited from the lower leagues. weekend of June 21-22. for seniors and students, €5 for children. Using only original photos and first- 14 Cork The , aka EA hand research, taken and undertaken 15 Cork City Sports Cup, with its four-pool regional Friday night football is now firmly Shamrock Rovers, St Patrick’s Athletic, over five seasons, liberoguide.com 16 Derry structure earlier on, is decided over a established, games usually kicking off Dundalk, Cork, Derry and Waterford offer has been put together to enhance 17 Derry City one-leg final. The winners do not qualify at 7.45pm. One evening fixture is often advance sales for individual matches, every football weekend and Euro 18 Dundalk for Europe. Current holders Derry City reserved for Saturday while Monday can either online or from the ticket office/ night experience. From airport to 19 Dundalk FC are far and away record winners. be used for midweek rounds. club shop. arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, 20 Sligo liberoguide.com helps you get the best 21 Sligo Rovers Season’s dealings Kick-off times in the First Division are Availability is rarely a problem and out of your visit to football’s furthest 22 Waterford Ireland introduced summer football in also Friday 7.45pm, with the occasional pay-on-the-day is the norm. Visiting corners and showcase stadiums. 23 Waterford FC

liberoguide.com 3 IRELAND 2019 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

Blooms Hotel d ublin

the Dublin monopoly on the domestic a new stadium in Tallaght, south-west league from the 1930s onwards, the Dublin, stalled. national side has only played four home games outside Dublin since the first in Making up Dublin’s Big Four, St 1924. Patrick’s Athletic share southside loyalties with Shamrock Rovers. Irish In a seminal decision, temporary champions in 2013, FAI Cup winners permission was granted for soccer to in 2014, never-relegated St Pat’s are be played at Gaelic football stronghold based at Richmond Park, Inchicore, Croke Park. in south-west Dublin, bringing tifo colour and choreography to Dublin Across town, another stadium saga had derby games. These same fans were

The Back Page long been unfolding in . the first to protest when a potential While the Bohs had been formed groundshare with Shamrock Rovers at near the North Circular Road in 1890, Tallaght was mooted in 1996. popularity of England’s Premier League internationals after the national side Shelbourne and Shamrock Rovers Dublin and dominance of Gaelic football. It had gained mass support from the late hailed from southside Ringsend. This Construction started on Tallaght wasn’t until 1971 that Ireland’s national 1980s onwards, the Dalymount was simple north v south dynamic was Stadium in 2008. Set near the Dublin is where 50,000 gather to roar team started to share abandoned to its remit of hosting the skewed when the former Ringsend terminus of the light rail line from on Ireland’s national side in a modern with its rugby counterparts. Bohs. residents were forced to groundshare town (and direct from St Pat’s, arena chosen to co-host Euro 2020. northside from the late prompting the term ‘LUAS derby’), Across town from the Aviva, half-a- Until then, Dalymount Park had With no Dalymount, no Lansdowne 1980s onwards. For Rovers, it followed the new arena witnessed Cristiano dozen clubs, four a century or more old, been the home of the round-ball Road after its demolition in 2007, and the controversial sale of their revered Ronaldo’s debut for Real Madrid in a strive to attract 3,000-plus crowds in a game, hosting its first match in 1901 the Aviva three years away from being Glenmalure Park in southside Milltown. friendly that July. two-division, 20-team domestic league. between Dublin’s most enduring built on the same site, Ireland’s soccer clubs, Bohemians (the Bohs) and team needed a stadium. Other towns Ireland’s most popular and most titled A year later, Manchester United strode Attempts to increase gates are gradually Shelbourne (the Shels, currently in the have rarely been an option. Though club, Rovers remained homeless for out against a League of Ireland XI before succeeding but not helped by the First Division). Unfit to host competitive Dundalk, Cork and Waterford broke more than 20 years as development of a newly opened and packed Aviva.

liberoguide.com 4 IRELAND 2019 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

The Auld Dubliner d ublin

The Shelbourne

Other buses into the city from the airport easy hop to and from the city centre. are the Nos.16 and 41 via Drumcondra, Lansdowne Road lodgings such as Ariel and the 24hr aircoach to the centre (€7 House and Butlers Town House offer single, €12 return, €6/€11 online, every old-school hospitality in lovely historic 15min, 30min journey time). properties.

Airport Taxi (+353 1 290 9090) quotes In the new Docklands development, €24 for the city centre. For a taxi in town, still walking distance from the Aviva, The main home games for Ireland’s thanks to the promotion of UCD, based Tickets are €6 single/€10 return. The call NRC on +353 1 677 2222. The Marker is the suitably upscale, successful qualification campaign for at University College Dublin in Belfield, multi-transport Leap Card (€5 plus €5 contemporary hotel, with spa and cool Euro 2016 attracted 50,000 crowds, as south Dublin. credit) is valid but offers no savings on Bed bar, where FC Barcelona stayed before the domestic league improved. Summer the airport bus. It does offer reductions Visit Dublin has a database of hotels at the pre-season game with Celtic in July football, Friday night games, the Bearings on all other Dublin buses, the LUAS www.visitdublin.com/dublin-city-hotels. 2016. supporter-focused FanPoweredFootball Dublin Airport is 10km (six miles) north light-rail line and DART & commuter campaign and promotion by league of the city. Dublin Bus Airlink 747 leaves rail lines. On the bus, tell the driver Note that rooms are booked Just over the river Dodder from the sponsors Airtricity (‘Real Football, Real every 10-15min for Heuston rail station your destination for him to deduct fare early around the Aviva Stadium and stadium, the family-run Sandymount is Fans’) have all helped to raise gates. (off-peak journey time 50min) via the once you touch into the ticket machine. the city centre for rugby weekends in another reliable and convenient choice. main bus station, BusÁras (off-peak Journeys over 13 stages are a flat €2.60. February and March. Though Bray Wanderers, down the journey time 30min) near Connolly rail On the LUAS and Dublin short-hop Nearer to town but still only a stroll coast from Dublin on the DART rail line, station. Allow more journey time in DART & Commuter rail zone (including For the rest of the year, there is plenty from the Aviva, the Landsdowne Hotel were relegated in 2018, the capital has rush hour, especially when coming from Blackrock and Bray), touch in and touch of choice within walking distance of the garners loyal repeat custom thanks to four teams in the top flight for 2019 town. off as you board and alight. national arena and its DART station an the Quinn family welcome. Its Den Bar

liberoguide.com 5 IRELAND 2019 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

tends towards the oval ball – note the The Living Room d largest collection of rugby ties in the ublin world.

Beside the aircoach bus stop south of town, a 15-minute walk from Lansdowne Road, the landmark, 502- room Clayton Hotel Burlington Road was completely refurbished in 2014.

In the same family as the Ballsbridge Hotel, the maldron group runs a number of mid- and upper-range hotels at key locations in downtown Dublin, as well as five minutes’ walk from , where you’ll also find the Glashaus, all sleek and contemporary but affordable.

For an authentic Dublin pub experience combined with an affordable, The Marker ones, and The Living Room, which comfortable room, O’Donoghue’s is shows almost every league known perfect. The greatest names in Irish to man and whose outdoor screen is music have all played in the illustrious claimed to be Europe’s largest. The 3 bar below. Spirits, Dublin’s first Brazilian bar, is lined with screens for soccer watching On the other side of the street is combines contemporary comfort with In the heart of Temple Bar, the Auld – the food can be hit and miss, but that’s the most famous hotel in town, The live music in its bar every night of the Dubliner always gets mobbed on big- not why you’re there. Shelbourne where the Free State week. Nearby, the refurbished Fleet match weekends while the Bad Ass constitution was drafted in 1922. Street Hotel is also handy for a bar-hop. Temple Bar is now more pub-like than A fairly recent addition to the sport pub Here you can book a genealogist, a when Sinéad O’Connor worked here scene, up in , The Back therapeutic spa or table at The Saddle Beer back in the day. trendy spot that goes big on rarer beers Page comprises a chatty front bar, Room restaurant. Its Horseshoe Bar is Pubs are why people come to Dublin while showing TV sports and providing a larger back one featuring a wall- equally renowned. – which is why the Temple Bar area on Back on the south side, further down shelfloads of board games. length mural dedicated to Italia ‘90, an the south bank of the Liffey is mobbed towards St Stephen’s Green, Sinnotts alcove casually scattered with stacks If you’d rather stay an easy stagger from every night. For TV football, the party- is mobbed on big-match nights, with 14 North of the river, you’ll find a more of cult soccer publications (Austrian the many pubs of Temple Bar, then the centric Trinity Bar has a huge screen large screens. Between Pearse station international style of sports bar, such Ballesterer, anyone?) and an astroturf- Blooms Hotel is a handy mid-range while O’Neill’s in nearby Suffolk Street is and Merrion Square, The Square Ball as the antipodean Woolshed, with three decked garden and picnic area. Screens choice while the Temple Bar Hotel itself a more traditional bet. on Hogan Place is a relative newbie, a vast screens and 15 smaller plasma abound.

liberoguide.com 6 IRELAND 2019 Aviva Stadium www.liberoguide.com/aviva-stadium

Crowe’s at No.10 has been linked with Aviv rugby for generations.

On Pembroke Road, that forks off a

from Shelbourne Road, the Den Bar St downstairs from the Lansdowne

Hotel is again more rugby-focused but ad offers a relaxing spot for a pre-match Guinness. More spacious but not as iu

authentic, The Dubliner nearby at m the Ballsbridge Hotel is closer to the stadium. being stuck on the narrow waterside pathway is no fun. More contemporary in vein, The Gasworks in the Bay Brewery For away fans, there’s no pedestrian family is an excellent pre-match access down the narrow streets and choice, with a score or more choices cul-de-sacs behind the North Stand of beer on tap in an urban-style bar, furthest from the DART line. Head decent food and a pool table. It’s about for the red-ticket entrance from Bath 100 metres from the main pre-match Avenue. bar hub that orbits around Slattery’s.

Transport At the junction of Bath Avenue, The stadium is right by Lansdowne Shelbourne Road and Haddington Sponsored by insurance company Aviva Road station on the DART line (every Road and Grand Canal Street Upper, Aviva for a reported €40 million-plus sum, 15min Mon-Sat, every 40min Sun) with Slattery’s is the busiest of the many the €400 million-plus stadium opened a direct link from Connolly (10min), establishments that surround the The Aviva is Ireland’s national in 2010 with the visit of Manchester Tara Street (6min) and Pearse (5min) Aviva, its glassed-in packed stadium, the home of its soccer and United – who had also been the first stations. before the game. On Bath Avenue, rugby teams whose associations share team to play football at Lansdowne the former classic stadium pub The 50-50 ownership of this gleaming Road against Waterford in 1968. Bars Lansdowne has gone gastro – but The arena. By the banks of the Dodder, there’s Old Spot is still used on match days as Impressive in appearance, its a row of three pubs on Merrion Road a drinking haunt. Unveiled in 2010, venue of the Europa undulating, translucent roof designed Tickets and entrances are colour- – just cross over the water and head League final a year later and for four to allow maximum light to the pitch coded: purple on the corner of Herbert up Shelbourne Road for the stadium Along Haddington Road, Ryan’s fixtures for Euro 2020, the Aviva stands without obstructing surrounding and Lansdowne Road, blue, orange a 7min walk away. Paddy Cullen’s Beggars Bush sets up for mobbed on the site of the old Lansdowne Road residencies, the Aviva comprises five and green via Shelbourne Road. It may goes big on pub food and TV football. match days with a large outdoor area, ground that performed the same tiers, the fourth dedicated to corporate be an idea to familiarise yourself with Attached, Mary Mac’s is lined with three indoor bars, a barbecue and TV function until its closure in 2006. spectators. the geography beforehand because screens for sports action. Century-old screens everywhere.

liberoguide.com 7 IRELAND 2019 Bohemians www.liberoguide.com/bohemians

Pay-on-the-night admission is at the bohemi main entrance through the alleyway off the North Circular Road, near St Peter’s Church.

Prices are set at €15, €10 for over-65s a

and students, €5 for under-12s. n s Shop Merchandise available on match nights includes a selection of club badges, scarves, home shirts and tracksuit The old-school feel is accentuated by jackets. the floodlights, installed at Highbury in 1951 and shipped to Dublin a decade Bars later. Traditional pubs have been in place at Doyle’s Corner by Dalymount Park Transport for over a century. The Bohemian (66 Several buses run to Phibsborough Phibsborough Road) was built for owner from the city centre. No.4 (direction John Doyle in 1907. Facing it at No.160, Harristown) and No.9 (direction John Doyle’s is similar in style and Charlestown) leave from diagonally heritage and has TV football. opposite the Savoy Cinema on O’Connell Street and take 10-15min to Beside Doyle’s at No.159, The Hut dates Last winning the title in 2009, shopping centre also needs addressing reach Phibsborough Shopping Centre. back to 1852 and does honest pub food Bohemians Bohemians secured their future – The Bohs play at what was a The No.46A stops 50 yards further of beef stew, roast lamb and the like. when Dublin City Council purchased 40,000-capacity stadium. Here Brady up O’Connell Street at Cathal Brugha Ireland’s oldest league club still in Dalymount and announced a €20 and Giles made their Ireland debuts Street and continues to St Peter’s continuous existence, Bohemian million phased rebuild. and Beckenbauer, Gullit and Paolo Church, closer to Dalymount’s main On match nights, three bars operate FC are based at equally venerable Rossi played international matches. entrance, accessed down a narrow under the main Jodi Stand. With its Dalymount Park in Phibsborough. Ireland’s national football stadium for alleyway from the North Circular Road. three large-screen TVs, jukebox and more than half a century, Dalymount is Today’s capacity is around 4,000 and pool table, the Members’ Bar is open to Eternal rivals of Shamrock Rovers, in dire need of a rebuild. This is exactly only the newest, main Jodi Stand is These services run every 15-20min, the all. It also operates Friday and Saturday The Bohs are all about longevity and what it will be getting, with a realigned in full use, roofed and all-seated. No.4 hourly Sun. nights, and Sunday lunchtimes. For tradition. Owned by its members since plastic pitch, a new main stand and Away fans in small numbers will be home fans and neutrals, the Phoenix being founded at Phoenix Park in seating behind each goal. accommodated here – for derby games Tickets Bar puts on post-match live acts and 1890, the club played its first game at with Dublin clubs, the open seating in Tickets are available online DJs. Renovated in 2017, the Jackie Dalymount in 1901, against northside With planning still ongoing – the the Des Kelly Carpets Stand, aka the (bohemianfc.com/?page_id=10770) for Jameson Bar is a more comfortable neighbours Shelbourne. adjoining faceless Phibsborough Shed End, is allocated. all home games. spot for Bohs fans.

liberoguide.com 8 IRELAND 2019 St Patrick’s Athletic www.liberoguide.com/st-patricks-athletic

under-12s. No childrenK’S A are allowed in S otherwise. T PA Shop An outlet for St Pat’s merchandise T R

opens by the main stand on match I nights, selling home and away tops, C scarves, hats and tracksuits, plus DVDs of recent triumphs.

Bars THL Three key pubs line Emmet Road. Nearest the ground, venerable Richmond House/McDowell’s was ETI taken over by the club in 2006 and flies the flags of St Pat’s outside. Inside, C it’s pretty standard, with surprisingly few red-and-white souvenirs or this well run, community club with a on the narrow open Carmac Terrace paraphernalia. solid fan base. opposite. On the same side of the street at No.97, Suitable for staging European fixtures Transport Coffey’s has the space to contain a pool since supporters clubbed together to The quickest way to Richmond table, DJ decks at the back, old 45s on fund the installation of the Patrons’ Park is to take the LUAS red line to one wall and Celtic, United and Villa St Patrick’s Stand in 2013, a block of open seats Goldenbridge (25min from Busáras shirts on another – Paul McGrath is still behind the Inchicore End goal, by Dublin bus station, 10min from a hero around Inchicore. Athletic Richmond Park has a capacity of 5,340. Heuston station). Walk over the canal, More than half of that is seating, 1,800 taking Connolly Avenue to the end. It Opposite, arguably the best choice The pride of Inchicore, west Dublin, in the Main Stand nearest to Emmet veers left to meet Emmet Road, with pre- and post-match is Tom Tavey at St Patrick’s Athletic won the league Road. the ground opposite, tucked in behind No.118. More bar than traditional pub, at their first attempt in 1952 and have terraced housing. it features a large mural signalling St never been relegated since. One half is allocated to visiting Pat’s affection and, somewhat bizarrely, supporters, nearest the Shed End, in Tickets a framed programme and match ticket Often capable of stellar performances block A. If more space is required, say Tickets are sold during the week from the 1963 FA Cup Final. Three Irish in Europe – a 0-0 draw at Celtic in 1998 for the LUAS derby with Shamrock of the game from the office at 125 internationals – Dunne, Cantwell and stands out, plus more recent wins over Behind the 2013 win and other notable Rovers on the same light-rail line, away Emmet Road near the Richmond Giles – played for Manchester United teams from Sweden, Russia and Bosnia achievements at Richmond Park, both fans are placed behind the east goal, House pub, and on match night itself. that day although there’s no story & Herzegovina – St Pat’s are also the as a player and manager, too. The most vocal home support is in It’s €15 for adults, €10 for over-65s behind the display, discovered when last side from Dublin to lift the Irish title. serves as an exemplary figurehead at the St Pat’s half of the Main Stand and and students, €5 for accompanied clearing out some old junk.

liberoguide.com 9 IRELAND 2019 Shamrock Rovers www.liberoguide.com/shamrock-rovers Sh a m r o ck

r o ve rs

find the kind of traditional pub that you would around Dalymount or St Pat’s.

Transport On a home-match week, it opens The main pre-match haunt is the bar Tallaght is at the end of one branch of noon-4pm. The club also distributes at the Maldron Hotel, Stir, accessed the LUAS red line, directly linked to online (https://shamrockrovers.ie/ through the restaurant of the same Heuston Station (30min journey time) match-tickets) on a match-by-match name, which has had the good grace and the bus station, Busáras (45min). basis. to create a Rovers area in one corner. Team line-ups from the 1940s and Shamrock Rovers Bradley, as the manager to bring the Make sure the train is going to There’s pay-on-the-night general 1950s, pennants from games with title and crowds back to south Dublin. Tallaght and not Saggart, the other admission from a kiosk also behind Real Madrid and Hibernian, and a Shamrock Rovers are Ireland’s most branch – the line divides at Belgard the main stand at €15. Seniors and photo of Alex Del Piero in a hooped titled team. Rescued from dissolution The council-owned Tallaght consists shortly before. From Connolly station, students are charged €10, under-14s shirt are all on display. by their fans who now own the club, of two stands, East and West along it’s a 2min walk round the corner to €5. The Hoops returned to their spiritual each sideline. Behind the goals, Busáras. Retail strips between the LUAS stop home of south Dublin, moved into the temporary seating can be installed Shops and the stadium contain chain outlets. new-build Tallaght Stadium and won for any showcase European fixture. Trains run every 5-15min until The Shamrock Rovers Megastore On Cookstown Way, the family-run back-to-back Irish titles. Capacity is otherwise an all-seated midnight, 11pm on Sun & bank (Mon-Sat noon-4pm) behind the main Blazin’ Grill is the nearest to the 6,000. holidays. stand carries home shirts, away ground, with a ‘Shamrockers Gather Rovers have been overshadowed by shirts, even third shirts, plus hooded Here’ sticker and the floodlights Dundalk, who have since bettered the Atmosphere is provided by the most From the Tallaght stop, head towards tops, scarves and hats. On match in view. Steaks and seafood are its Dublin club’s Europa League group- raucous home fans in the East Stand. The Square shopping centre – the nights, another outlet sets up at the stock-in-trade. Nearby, the more stage achievement of 2011. Away fans are allocated one side of stadium is straight ahead. car park end of the stadium. bar-like Aussie Outback is a BBQ the main West Stand, sections H-J spot serving monumental burgers Average gates, too, have dipped below on the corner of Kiltipper Road and Tickets Bars and standard draught lagers. Spicy Dundalk’s. Rovers now look to former the dual carriageway, opposite the The ticket office is near the club shop Tallaght is a new-town suburb, all ho- Mexican eaterie Perios Grill has seats midfielder, 34-year-old Stephen Maldron Hotel. on Kiltipper Road, beside the car park. tels and shopping centres – you won’t outside in summer.

liberoguide.com 10 IRELAND 2019 UCD www.liberoguide.com/ucd

over the Liffey from O’Connell Street in town, bus Nos.39A and 145 takes 25min to reach it – nearby stop 334 is U CD where you catch the No.46A that also comes this way from the city centre. From Lower O’Connell Street, bus No.11 takes you down Clonskeagh Road to stop 860/UCD, the other side of the campus.

If you’re coming from the airport, aircoach 700 stops at the UCD Slip Road, one after RTÉ, journey time 50 minutes. Three years later, UCD returned to the Premier after a league showdown with Tickets Finn Harps ended in a 1-1 draw, Conor Admission is sold on the day from the Davis scoring another crucial goal in windows by the turnstiles, €15 for the title-winning campaign. adults, €10 for seniors and non-UCD students, €5 for under-14s and UCD Of decent enough standard to host students. This entitles you to sit in the Europa League football, the UCD Bowl main stand or stand behind either goal. is shared by the university’s soccer and rugby teams. It consists of one Shop mark. In 1984, the striker came close main stand, with open seating and A modest selection of souvenirs is UCD to creating a sensation when UCD, grass banking either side of the central usually available behind the main making their European debut, nearly covered area. Half the capacity of 3,000 stand on match days. Promoted back to the Irish Premier in notched a late equaliser at Everton. A is seated. 2018, University College Dublin are 1-1 draw would have sent the Students Bars based at the huge campus in Belfield, through on away goals. Visiting supporters are allocated a Open every day until 11pm at least, the south of Dublin city centre. few hundred seats furthest from the Clubhouse Bar alongside the Student In 2015, UCD made an unexpected turnstiles and ticket hut. Centre is just other side of the car park Since 1983, the Students have operated return to Europe after 30 years thanks from the main stand. The TV screens the same as any other football club to their Fair Play record in 2014. A Transport set up over the bar counter are tuned in Ireland’s top two divisions, on a single goal in each leg by Ryan Swan Swan scored again in the home leg at The UCD Bowl is on the other side of to sport. semi-pro basis, although a college was enough to see off multi-titled the UCD Bowl but by then the record Stillorgan Road from the RTÉ studios. scholarship scheme similar to the Dudelange of Luxembourg before Slovak champions were already 2-1 up. The nearest bus stop is the next one Basic hot and cold refreshments are American model has allowed the second-flight UCD kept Slovan Two stoppage-time goals then skewed down, Donnybrook, Belfield Court. otherwise available by the main stand likes of to make their Bratislava to a late 1-0 win in Slovakia. the aggregate score to 6-1. From D’Olier Street (stop 335), just on match days.

liberoguide.com 11 IRELAND 2019 Ballybofey www.liberoguide.com/ballybofey

Bonner’s There’s a taxi office (087 262 0446) b Corner Bar near the Villa Rose Hotel. a llybofey Bed Go Visit Donegal (govisitdonegal.com) has a database of accommodation across the county.

Ballybofey has two high-standard hotels. By the Finn, Jackson’s is a four-

Villa Rose star with a heated indoor pool, sauna and gym, plus the Garden Restaurant. Nearby, the four-star Villa Rose also A new stadium is slowly being built has its own spa and restaurant, Fara’s. over the Finn in but it’s now ten years since planning permission Further along Main Street, Rockvale was granted. House offers wallet-friendly B&B digs. All six rooms are en-suite. Bearings Bus Éireann runs services to Bally- Beer bofey from Sligo (every 2hrs, 90min Anyone’s first port of call should be journey time, €12 single) and Derry Barrett’s, opposite the Villa Rose, an (hourly, 1hr journey time). Sligo has honest haunt for hard-drinking sports good connections with Dublin, with fans. hourly buses (4hr journey time) and County Donegal as a whole. Way a hint at Harps’ fans rural pastimes, regular trains (3hr journey time) but Further down Main Street, Harleys Ballybofey up in Ireland’s top left-hand corner, The Candystripes maintained Premier there’s no way of getting back to the Cheers Bar likes a good party and puts Ballybofey rivals Derry in the North- Division status with an extra-time capital via Sligo from Ballbofey after on DJs. Opposite Alexander’s store, J Few football fans outside Ireland know West Derby, one of the most colourful winner. an evening game. Via Letterkenny, you McLaughlin’s is a regular local, handy where Ballybofey is – or why they in Irish football. Matters came to a can leave Ballybofey at 10.30pm and for a quick jar. might have to find it. Older Everton, head at a 2003 relegation play-off. Back hosting top-flight football, reach Dublin at 5am but it means a 3hr Derby and Aberdeen supporters, Derry had been in the top tier since Ballybofey – one Main Street, one stopover. All bus connections between Behind its bright tangerine exterior, though, will remember the name of 1987 – Finn Harps were looking to bus stop but no train station – is, in Dublin and Ballybofey (4-5hr journey Bonner’s Corner Bar shows live sport Finn Harps, generous opposition on rejoin the elite. An absurdly late fact, two towns in one. The river that time, €15) require one change, at and offers micro-brewed beers from random European adventures in the equaliser from Kevin McHugh, later to divides Ballybofey from neighbouring Letterkenny, Lifford or Donegal Abbey independent Bog Hopper from Muff. 1970s. join Derry, gave rise to his infamous Stranorlar gives its name to Finn Hotel. greyhound impression in celebration, Harps. The capacity at dilapidated Nearby on Glenfin Street itself, The Harps are based in Ballybofey but, mocking the opposition. As inflatable is roughly equivalent to the Ballybofey bus stop is by McElhineys McKelvey’s is another live-match spot, as their badge suggests, represent sheep floated over Derry’s Brandywell, population of the town it serves. store/Butt Hall Centre on Main Street. with DJs on Saturday nights.

liberoguide.com 12 IRELAND 2019 Finn Harps www.liberoguide.com/finn-harps

Finn Harps finn h

A long-lost romantic name on the

European football scene, fan-owned arps Finn Harps are from Ballybofey, with a supporter base across County Donegal.

Though it’s been a while since the likes of Derby and Everton notched up double-digit aggregate scores against them, The Harps are at least back in the top flight. In 2015, dramatic late winning goals, first against UCD, then after extra-time against , gained the Donegal side a first promotion in eight years.

The setting for these victories was run-down Finn Park, the club’s home since before the glory days. It chargrilled burgers and steaks, and is hoped that in another eight years, framed photos from Finn Harps history any future triumphs will take place at around the large flat-screen TV. the new stadium being built over the river Finn at Stranorlar, Ballybofey’s uncovered River End and/or Gantry Tickets Bars Further down, right by the ground, adjoining town that houses the local Side opposite the main stand. Some The club has a simple policy of pay-on- With Finn Park so close to Main Street, the ever popular Barca Bar has been schools and churches. home fans still like to occupy the the-night from the gates on both Naven- and Ballybofey so compact, any of the serving Harps and away fans for years, narrow section of open terracing at ny Street and Chestnut Road. It’s €12 half-dozen pubs and bars in town is a a lively, honest drinking haunt with Back in Ballybofey, Finn Park is a the Town End, backed by residential in, €10 for seniors and students, €5 for handy stroll pre- and post-match. occasional live acts and a superfriendly short walk from Main Street, where housing. secondary pupils and €3 for under-12s. staff. the buses come in. The ground is If you’d like a seat, then it’s an extra €3 The two nearest Finn Park, on Navenny effectively one main stand, partly Transport once you’re inside. Street itself, are also the most convivial A visit to Finn Park is not complete filled with seating, allocated to all Buses from Letterkenny, Donegal, Sligo choices. The first one you come to, without sampling its famous soup, spectators except in cases such as and Derry pull in at McElhineys store/ Shop Heeney’s U Drop Inn, has been family- dispensed from beside the clubhouse the derby with Derry or any play- Butt Hall Centre on Main Street. Head A modest selection of blue-and-white run for the best part of 60 years. Today by the main stand. There’s more off game. Around the main stand for the Villa Rose Hotel then turn next souvenirs is available from the portak- Michael runs a tidy but eminently hot food available at the Gantry Side are open sides – if segregation is left down Navenny Street. The ground abin outlet near the home Town End on friendly ship, part bar, part restaurant, – handy for away fans exposed to the required, then away fans stand in the is about 200 yards on the left. match nights. with an extensive menu featuring elements.

liberoguide.com 13 IRELAND 2019 Cork www.liberoguide.com/cork

Gothenburg, CSKA Kyiv have all left c

Cork without a win. o rk Bearings Cork Airport is 6.5km (four miles) south of the city. Bus Éireann Nos.226 and 226A run every 30min to Parnell Place station in town (lowest fare €5 single online), jour- ney time 30min. They also stop at Evergreen Road, near and terminate at Kent Station, Cork’s train hub.

The hourly train from Dublin Heuston takes 2hr 30-45min, cheapest online single €20. The last one back is at 8.20pm – and it’s not direct. There’s a bus every 2hrs (journey time 3hr 45min, cheapest online single €13) – the last one back With views over another side of the Nearby Costigan’s has a covered is 6pm. Lee, the Imperial Hotel combines smoking area with a TV showing centuries of tradition with a quality spa live games – plus plenty of other Cork Taxi (+353 21 4 27 22 22) is a and upscale dining. screens. reliable local firm. eight clubs in all, including Cork City, Convenient for the bus station, Jurys Also traditional, Jim Cashman’s Cork formed in 1984, Irish champions in Bed Inn is reliably upper mid-range. is located on the edge of Cork’s 2017 and runners-up behind Dundalk Cork’s hotels are clustered near the Huguenot Quarter, close to a Ireland’s second city of Cork has the last four of five seasons. river, in the city centre. The Gresham Beer selection of decent restaurants. long been successful at national level Metropole is a cut above, a four-star With plenty of tourists and students, in and Gaelic football but its City have embraced professionalism, with access to a pool, sauna and gym. Cork is awash with pubs and bars On the north side of town, soccer history is one of short-lived summer football and all-seated Just on the other side of MacCurtain showing sports. Almost all, though, convenient for the train station, The clubs wresting occasional silverware spectatorship. It hasn’t always been Street, the Hotel Isaacs Cork is a will prioritise a Gaelic football game Shelbourne is a handy option with from the clutches of Dublin. smooth, with complex shenanigans handy mid-range option with equal (if over English Premier League action all-day TV sport and food. needed to extricate the club from paid) access to a health centre. Nearby, – with the welcome exception of SoHo, There has been a team from Cork in financial disaster in 2010, but the the Brú is a contemporary hostel with a contemporary spot with a panoramic Busy in term-time, the student- the League of Ireland almost every Leesiders have been exemplary private rooms as well as dorms, a hop- rooftop deck and terrace overlooking friendly Washington Inn also brings season since its inauguration in the representatives of Irish football ping little bar that shows big-screen the main drag of Grand Parade. SoHo in punters with its HD big-screen TV early 1920s. But this has involved in Europe. Bayern Munich, IFK sports and live music most nights. also sells tickets for Cork City games. sports action.

liberoguide.com 14 IRELAND 2019 Cork City www.liberoguide.com/cork-city

supporters have a separate outlet by

the St Anne’s Park entrance.ty c o

There’s an across-the-board pricing rk system of €15, €10 for under-18s, €5

for under-13s and seniors. c i Shops Souvenirs are sold at the club shop in the Douglas Village Shopping Centre. There’s also a match-night outlet at the Curragh Road end of the ground.

Bars There’s a handful of pubs along Evergreen Road a reasonably short stroll to the ground.

all but bankrupt, City returned and within From the city centre, and stopping The party-centric Evergreen Bar at a decade began to develop it. Now all- closer, the No.203 runs every 15-30min No.35 shows TV football while nearer seated, Turners Cross comprises four to Curragh Road (Turners Cross), the ground, the Mountain Bar is a stands: Donie Forde houses the press and journey time 15min. Buses leave from St traditional spot with horse racing its family sections, opposite the Derrynane Patrick’s Street, near the Father Mathew focus. Road Stand, where visiting fans are statue, by Marks & Spencer. In 2017, Cork gained revenge, winning allocated two sections nearest the St Closer still at No.10, The Beer Garden Cork City the title with a 0-0 draw in front of nearly Anne’s End. Tickets has the best selection of beers, 6,000 home fans. Advance tickets are available at the club decent, good-value food and a pool League champions in 2017, runners-up Curragh Road, built in 2007 on The Shed shop in the Douglas Village Shopping table. It’s also an outlet for match from 2014 to 2016 and again in 2018, All-seated and all-covered, Turners terrace, remains home to the Rebel Army. Centre on the outskirts of town, as well tickets. Cork City are one of the biggest clubs in Cross is the most impressive soccer as fro mthe SoHo bar/restaurant on Ireland in terms of support, professional stadium in Ireland outside Dublin. A Capacity is 6,900. Grand Parade and The Beer Garden pub Now smart and urban, the Turners status and infrastructure. sports ground since the 1890s, ‘The at Turners Cross. Cross Tavern shows TV matches and Cross’ was home to Cork Celtic until the Transport offers upscale pub food. In 2015, fan-owned Cork attracted the late 1970s before Cork City took it over Turners Cross is too far to walk from Tickets are also distributed online highest average league gate, boosted in 1986. either Kent rail or Parnell Place bus through Ticketmaster (www. Right by the ground, between the by a near 7,000 crowd for the visit of stations. Bus Nos.226 and 226A that ticketmaster.ie). main Donie Forde Stand and home Dundalk, their nearest provincial rivals Not considered part of the ambitious run between the two every 30min call end on the Curragh Road, the in terms of attendances and recent club’s future, it was abandoned for at Evergreen Road, reasonably close to On the day, ticket huts open at the main Horseshoe Inn is invariably packed on silverware. unloved Bishopstown in 1993. By 1996, Turners Cross stadium. entrance on the Curragh Road. Visiting match nights.

liberoguide.com 15 IRELAND 2019 Derry www.liberoguide.com/Derry

The Lyric dErr y

The waterfront Buscentre is in town by Saddler’s House on Great James the Peace Bridge, the same side of the Street is convenient, comfortable and river as the stadium. The train station affordable. Breakfast is a feast. is across the Foyle. The hourly service from Belfast (£12.50) takes 2hrs. Beer Pubs surround the Richmond Centre Belfast International Airport is 92km mall. Football is screened in one of the (57 miles) away. Take Ulsterbus three bars that comprise the historic No.300a to the Europa Buscentre River Inn, revamped in 2016. Belfast then Translink Goldline 212 to Derry the Buscentre in Derry, overall journey On the other side of the mall, the time around 3hrs. Bentley is a six-bar complex, one that shows matches. Formerly the Translink Goldline Bus X3/X4 runs Diamond Hotel, where Institute FC Derry Football has been played here since Bearings from Dublin Busáras to Derry (£11) were formed in 1905, Granny Annies 1900. Derry City moved in shortly Derry has its own airport 11km (7 seven times a day via Dublin Airport, has revived this prominent space with Despite overwhelming difficulties, after their foundation in 1928. miles) north-east of town. Currently journey time 4hrs. live music, TV sport and communal football has survived, in fact thrived, Loganair and Ryanair provide links banter. in Derry, second city of Northern Ninety years later, and a with London Stansted, Liverpool, Bed Ireland. After a gap of 13 long years 7,700-capacity Brandywell is Manchester and Scotland. A City Cabs Visit Derry (visitderry.com) has a For an old-school community pub, out of the senior game, Derry City attracting gates of 3,000-plus. The taxi (+44 28 7126 4466) costs £11 into hotel database with reservations via The Derby on Great James Street is a have been competing with teams stadium has also taken the name of town. booking.com. revered spot with TV football. from south of the border in the former club captain Ryan McBride, League of Ireland since 1985. who died suddenly in 2017. Goldline Express bus No.234 runs The four-star Maldron is close to the The Oakgrove Bar (88 Bishop Street) every 2hrs to the Buscentre in town, bus station, with 90 rooms, a gym has TV sport, live music and sells After a £7 million redevelopment, The ground also hosts home games journey time 30min. Other bus and sauna. Its Lyric bar shows TV tickets for Derry games. City’s Brandywell Stadium, close to of Institute FC, promoted from journeys require a 10min walk to football. Also nearby is superior B&B landmarks such as the Free Derry ’s second tier in Longfield, Eglinton, where you can Townhouse No.8. Waterfront four-star Across the Foyle, near the train station, Corner and the Bloody Sunday 2018 to compete in the top division pick up the Nos.143 or 152, run by City Hotel Derry, with a pool and gym, the Glen Bar (28 Dungiven Road) Monument, reopened in 2018. north of the border. Ulsterbus. offers attractive weekend breaks. shows games on two big screens.

liberoguide.com 16 IRELAND 2019 Derry City www.liberoguide.com/derry-city

Corner. You’ll see the floodlightsty d e

ahead. rr

Tickets y c

The club sells tickets online i (derrycityfc.net/online-ticketing) to both home and away fans and distribute through outlets around town such as the Oakgrove Bar (88 Bishop Street).

On match nights, tickets are sold from The other major change to the ground the Long Tower Youth Club on Lecky since its redevelopment in 2017 has Road, by the stadium car park, past been in its name, the Ryan McBride the greyhound track. Brandywell Stadium commemorating the club captain who died suddenly Prices are set at £15, £12 for seniors that same year. and students, £4 (not available online) for 5-15s, under-5s free. Away fans enter through the turnstiles on Brandywell Avenue to Shop Blocks A and B of the East Stand, A basic range of red-and-white facing the main one. merchandise is sold from a hut by the main stand on match nights. Derry City Derry Celtic played here in the Large crowds greeted the return of Transport 1890s. Derry Celtic moved across football to the Brandywell in 1985, If you’re coming in by train, turn right Bars Derry City are a club apart. The to the Brandywell in 1900, before Derry having joined the League of out of the station, along the river to Sport-focused bars near the ground Candystripes of the Brandywell have folding in 1913. Newly founded Derry Ireland south of the border. the bridge, then left at the roundabout include the Brandywell Sports Bar been crowned champions on both City moved in 15 years later. up Abercorn Road. As it veers right, where Brandywell Road meets Lecky sides of the border, their acceptance The treble win of 1989, another you’ll see the floodlights ahead. Allow Road and, nearby, The Bluebell Bar at into the League of Ireland in 1985 With the Brandywell close to chilling league title in 1997, FAI Cup 15 minutes altogether. 130 Lecky Road. Slightly further away, coming 20 years after winning the title scenes of civil unrest during The victories and high-place finishes other Candystripe haunts include the in the North. Troubles, not least the Bloody have brought the likes of Benfica, It’s about the same from the bus Celtic Bar, the other side of Celtic Sunday massacre in 1972, Derry Gothenburg and Paris Saint- station – you won’t have to cross the Park where Stanleys Walk meets the The ground sits near the Bogside, next City found themselves forced to play Germain to the Brandywell, recently river but cut through town. Head for end of Elmwood Street and, behind to Celtic Park, home of Derry’s GAA home games in Coleraine from 1971, equipped with 3G artificial pitch The Diamond, right down Butcher it, Mary B’s at 42 Elmwood Terrace, team but also the first to stage soccer before being reduced to Saturday- and a new main stand, expanding Street by the Maldon Hotel, then left where Lone Moor Road meets Blighs in town when St Colomb’s Court and morning football for 13 years. capacity to 7,700. down Fahan Street, past Free Derry Lane.

liberoguide.com 17 IRELAND 2019 Dundalk www.liberoguide.com/dundalk d Welcome to un Dundalk da l k

Dundalk town centre is compact. If you need a taxi, call Sevens on 042 93 77777.

Bed Dundalk Tourist Office has details of Liverpool in major European fixtures. local hotels and B&Bs at louthholidays. Dundalk With Dundalk now forging ahead in com. Europe further than any Irish team Halfway between Dublin and Belfast, before them, more and more foreign Close to , across Beer Craft brews are also served at The Dundalk is Ireland’s soccer town. visitors will be taking the convivial Carrickmacross Road, the Innisfree Anne Street and Park Street are Bar Tender that recently celebrated While the rest of the Republic goes in train journey up the coast from Dublin Guest House offers comfortable rooms lined with pubs and bars. From the its tenth anniversary. Nearby stands M for Gaelic football, hurling and rugby, Connolly station. in an Edwardian townhouse. railway station end, Jockeys focuses Courtney’s, an old-school pub barely Dundalk displays the lilywhite shirts on racing but has a back room for changed since the 1800s. of its local soccer team across town. Bearings On the town centre side of the train football. Quality home-made food is Barber shops, grocery stores and pubs From Dublin airport, an hourly Bus Éire- station, Glen Gat House is another another bonus. Across the road, the Corner sports bar Jimmy’s proudly bear the three mythical martlets of ann service takes 1hr 15min to reach welcoming and affordable lodging while Big House/McGuinness also goes big displays Dundalk shirts in the current Irish champions Dundalk FC. Dundalk’s Long Walk station (online round the corner, the Lismar is a B&B on TV sport – though sadly its beer windows. On the other side of the €9 single/€13 return), right by central with serviced apartments. signs (Harp, Macardles) are nods to a road, the Phoenix features traditional The Lilywhites were the first to break Market Square. moribund local industry. music. Below the Hotel Imperial, the capital’s monopoly on the domestic The main hotel in the town centre is the Parkes Bar is still regular haunt for game, and are now Ireland’s most titled The train from Dublin Connolly runs old-school Imperial, recently put up for On the same side, popular sports-watching students – though any club outside Dublin. every 1-2hrs, journey time 1hr, online sale at €1 million-plus but currently still Brubakers is more bar-like and hotel sale might change this. single €20, online return €30. Dundalk accepting guests in its 50 rooms and keeps longer hours. Alongside, Dundalk’s Oriel Park is considered (Clarke) station is a short walk from Parkes sports bar downstairs. If you’re Russell’s Saloon is a tasteful revamp In a quieter part of the town centre, the Home of Football. This venerable Oriel Park – Long Walk bus terminus is barhopping along Park Street, you of a much-loved old bar, with craft McKeowns is a great spot for sports ground once hosted Celtic, Spurs and around 15min. couldn’t be better placed. and German beers. and communal imbibery.

liberoguide.com 18 IRELAND 2019 Dundalk FC www.liberoguide.com/dundalk-fc d un da l k f c

‘C’Mon the Town’ among the replica shirts, scarves and hats.

Bars Kennedy’s, aka the Railway Bar, has been in place for generations. Set at the junction of station walkway While staging major European and Carrickmacross Road, it has Dundalk FC fixtures in Dublin – 30,000 witnessed been modernised by the current the 2016 Champions League play-off Those arriving by bus to the Long Walk management, and is now a comfortable Dundalk FC have boldly gone where no with Legia Warsaw at the Aviva – should head towards Market Square, and spacious place to watch the game other Irish team has gone before. From Dundalk consider revered Oriel Park past the pubs of Park Street and Anne on the big screen, warm yourself by one 2012 to 2018, ambitious young manager as the Home of Football. Street, then towards the train station of two fires and tuck into a home-made Stephen Kenny transformed the from the roundabout. meal – Dundalk manager Stephen Lilywhites. Astonishing results in both Since the much-needed 2005 revamp, Kenny is a regular diner. European competitions in 2016 took capacity is 4,500, 3,000 seated in the Tickets the Irish champions to within touching stands facing each other across a Cash-only tickets are available on the A photo of his team is posted by the distance of potential Champions League FieldTurf artificial pitch. The Main day at the turnstiles on Carrickmacross bar, lined with taps of Peroni, Carlsberg match-ups with Barcelona, Real Madrid Stand is nearest Carrickmacross Road, €20 (€15 discounts) for the and Hop House 13 lager. Old prints of or Juventus. The subsequent win and Road with turnstiles for home and There are also standing places at each Main Stand, €15 (€5-€10) elsewhere. Dundalk also feature. A beer garden draw in the group stage of the Europa away fans, visiting supporters end. Although there are no online sales, opens in summer. League represent unprecedented accessing standing and seating advance purchase is usually available in achievements for any League of Ireland places through the gate furthest from Transport the week running up to match day. At the ground, the Lilywhite Lounge club. town. Oriel Park is less than ten minutes from under the Main Stand and Enda McGuill Dundalk (Clarke) train station – turn Shop Suite open on match days and for Three days after taking Zenit St The South Side, aka The Shed, has also right up to Kennedy’s and the main road, A merchandise outlet opens on match special occasions. Drinks are also Petersburg to the wire in the Europa covered seating. Oriel Park now meets then right again. The stadium is on the days below the town end of the Main served at the Town Bar outlet by the League, Dundalk sealed a third UEFA requirements for an overall same side of the road as the pub, past Stand, with items such as Jim Murphy’s merchandise shop at the station end of consecutive Irish title. 3,000 within any given ground. the petrol station. recently published Dundalk miscellany the Main Stand.

liberoguide.com 19 IRELAND 2019 Sligo www.liberoguide.com/sligo Sligo

and the N4 dual carriageway that links with the M4 motorway and the M50 around Dublin. You arrive south of the river Garavogue, a short walk to the town centre and even shorter to the Showgrounds. Six buses run daily from Dublin (4hrs, €14 single). If you’ve come for an evening kick-off, Football was first played here at there’s a service back at 1am. The Sligo Forthill Park in the 1890s between train from Dublin Connolly is quicker sauna, and the Orient Express bar. To carry the night on, cross the teams of British Army soldiers (3hrs) but more expensive, cheapest The family-run Railway Hostel offers footbridge over the river to the Facing out to the Atlantic from its stationed nearby. There are still advance singles €18, regular price dorm beds, twins and doubles. Garavogue Bar, Sligo’s prime party vantage point on Ireland’s west coast, pitches there today. After watching around €25. The last service back is spot, with big-screen sport as well as the county town of Sligo has long these early games, locals formed 7pm, the first in the morning 7am. In the town centre, the newly DJs, live acts and cocktails. flown the flag for football rather than Junior teams such as Sligo Town and renovated Sligo City Hotel encourages rugby or GAA – surfing is also a major Sligo Blues. For a cab call Sligo Taxis on 086 121 football-weekend stays with its Don’t leave Sligo without visiting activity these days. 9111. Quays bar/restaurant. Nearby chic, Hargadon’s, part pub, part wine store, In 1928, Town and Blues became the contemporary Glasshouse, lapped part Michelin-praised restaurant, all dark Run as a people’s co-operative, Sligo Reds of Sligo Rovers, nicknamed Bed by the Garavogue, offers cocktails in wood and dating back to 1868. Alongside Rovers have a fan base that extends thereafter as The Bit o’Red, in fact. Six Sligo Tourism (www.sligotourism.ie) has the upper-floor View Bar and award- on O’Connell Street, Tricky McGarrigle’s across the North West and beyond. years later they joined the League of a database of local accommodation. winning cuisine. is a local focal point for music. Support at the age-old Showgrounds, Ireland – in 1937 they became the first the club’s home since its foundation, club from outside Leinster to win it. The best-located lodging for the Beer Round the corner on Wine Street, is colourful and choreographed, visual Showgrounds is the landmark four- Cavernous riverside Fiddler’s Creek is The Swagman is football-friendly and vocal. It will have impressed visitors Bearings star Great Southern Hotel, a classic the main Rovers bar in Sligo, big on TV and late-opening, with a beer garden from Trondheim and Trnava, here for Sligo’s train and bus stations are at former railway hotel by the bus and football, live entertainment and home- and the occasional BBQ. Craft brews, European fixtures relatively recently. the junction of Lord Edward Street train stations, with a pool, gym and made food at its adjoining restaurant. too.

liberoguide.com 20 IRELAND 2019 Sligo Rovers www.liberoguide.com/sligo-rovers

Showgrounds Rove Sligo rs

to a Ryder Cup bib signed by Paul McGinley.

Rafferty’s, the station bar opposite the bus ramp, is fine to slake a post- journey thirst, though it might be worth holding out until O’Neills sports bar Things have calmed down since – at the corner of Wolfe Tone Street and Sligo Rovers though not, of course, in the Jinks Church Hill. Around a large main bar Avenue Stand, half a riot of red created and cosier lounge with a pool table, Community-run Sligo Rovers have a by the Forza Rovers ultras, half Street, walk up Wolfe Tone Street, Shop no position is too much of a stretch fan culture second to none in Ireland. competing away support. Opposite, the turn right at O’Neill’s and continue up As you enter through the turnstiles, to clock a TV screen with Sky Sports Rewarded relatively recently with a main stand is similarly covered and all- Church Hill. The ground is five minutes you’ll see a match-day shop to your News on stream. Bonus points for the league title and FAI Cup, these fans seated. At the Volkswagen-sponsored ahead. Don’t approach via Lord Edward left, stocking replica shirts, scarves Mona Lisa clad in Rovers scarf. provide the venerable Showgrounds Railway End, a further 1,300 open seats Street – this sends you round the and sundry souvenirs. with colourful displays in the club’s brings the total to 4,000. Beyond tower houses into the Treacy housing estate With no alcohol at the ground, Mooneys signature red. the peaks of Benbulbin – you’re in Sligo before re-emerging further up Church Bars is the designated and thankfully country. Hill at Mooneys bar. If not rushed for time before kick-off, spacious supporters’ bar, just past the Rovers, aka The Bit o’Red, were cross the busy N4 dual carriage- turnstiles on Church Hill. A treasure galvanised in 2012 by ex-QPR defender The Showgrounds are three-sided Tickets way to the left of the station exit trove of signed jerseys, scarves, . A full house here of – the former home Shed End is now an Advance purchase is usually for for Donaghy’s, the bar attached to pennants, like any good Irish pub, it 5,600 saw his side beat St Pat’s to lift open space. European matches and title deciders. award-winning restaurant Coach Lane. features an old bike hanging from the Sligo’s first Irish title for 35 years. A Pay cash at the turnstiles on Church Plastered in battered bric-à-brac, old ceiling. Waiting at the bar allows you year later, a heartstopping climax to the Transport Hill – separate for home and away fans. Bovril and Colman’s Mustard signs, a to brush up on Rovers history from FAI Cup final saw Sligo lead The Showgrounds are near Sligo’s train Admission is €15, €10 for seniors and Rovers scarf here and there for good the newspaper murals painted on the 2-1, get pegged to 2-2 then win 3-2. and bus stations. Cross Lord Edward students, €5 for under-12s. measure, the bar gives pride of place wall.

liberoguide.com 21 IRELAND 2019 Waterford www.liberoguide.com/waterford

Waterford o W a te The former soccer stronghold of

Waterford welcomes the return r of European football in 2019 after f an absence of more than 30 years. Promoted to the Premier Division rd in 2017, flagship club Waterford FC claimed a fourth-place slot in 2018 to enter the Europa League. range Treacys comes with a spa, gym and heated pool. For ex-Ireland U-21 international Lee Power, this major turnaround On Bridge Street, the Fitzwilton is a confirms the faith he showed when contemporary choice. taking over the moribund club in late 2016. Restoring the original name of Beer Waterford FC, Power understood the Waterford has scores of drinking spots. pride felt by many older fans in the club On O’Connell Street, quality pubs that won six League of Ireland titles in attract a sensible but hard-drinking eight seasons, between 1966 and 1973. fraternity. There, the tremendous Tullys offers a buzzy contrast to the Bearings indelibly old-school Thomas Maher Dublin Airport is 175km (109 miles) including €5 travel credit), €1.68 Nearby, a row of B&Bs on the main opposite. away. From Zone 11 Stop 2, a direct Bus deducted per journey, touch in when road towards down includes The Éireann Expressway coach takes 3hrs to you board – or pay the driver around Hazelbrook, The Vee and St Albans. The Hub is both the name of an Irish Waterford bus station (every 2hrs, €20). €2 cash. drinkerie with TV football, and the The quicker service (2hr 45min) is less Near pre-match pub Norris’s, The Bermuda Triangle of bars nearby, frequent. Waterford Taxis (+353 51 33 10 33) Barley Field (35-36 Barrack Street) where John and Parnell Streets cross. have their own app and online booking, comprises 21 guestrooms and a Here the late-opening Kazbar offers The train from Dublin Heuston to including airport transfers. friendly bar. On main Parnell Street TV sport and live music, while the Waterford Plunkett takes 2hrs, online leading to the stadium, the upper mid- Market Bar (11 John Street) opposite is tickets €16. Once arrived, walk over the Bed range Tower Hotel is also a leisure a mecca to rock’s rich tapestry. bridge to town. Waterford bus station is Visit Waterford (visitwaterford.com) centre, with a pool, gym and sauna. Nearer the bridge, Dooley’s has been by the city centre but a long walk to the has a hotel database. in the same family for 80 years. Nearby, The best football bar in town is stadium – use public transport or a taxi. The main hub of hotels is across from affordable Sal’s is ideal for a drinking Alfie’s, just up Bridge Street over to Across the roundabout from the the bus station, where the historic weekend – pub downstairs, hearty Ballybricken. The decor offers a lesson Local buses in Waterford run on the ground, the Travelodge Waterford four-star Granville Hotel is one of breakfast one floor up. The Anchorage in local football history, revered Irish Ireland-wide Leap Card system (€10 offers free parking. Ireland’s oldest. is also good value. Alongside, mid- internationals all depicted and framed.

liberoguide.com 22 IRELAND 2019 Waterford FC www.liberoguide.com/waterford-fc o W a te r f rd

F C entrance opening just over an hour Waterford FC before kick-off. There’s an all-in-one price of €15, €10 Enjoying their best league season for students and seniors, €5 for under- since the 1970s and back in Europe 14s. after 30 years, Waterford FC have also reenergised their loyal fan base. Shop To the left of the main stand as you Behind this long-needed revival is approach from the main entrance, the owner/chairman Lee Power, who played main match-day shop is a hut just large in the same promising Ireland U-21 side enough for a rail of replica shirts in blue, as the man he quickly appointed as his away tops of yellow-and-blue stripes. Director of Football, . events – there are no ends as such, just Up to 800 away fans can be allocated (from bay 7/8 by the bus shelter) and Bars Relegated in 1989, the then named empty spaces. half the Tramore Road Stand, lively for takes 10min. The nearest stop is the There are no pubs near the ground. Fans Waterford United moved to the newly the visits of Cork City and the bigger Kilbarry Centre behind the ground. If gather at Norris’s Bar where Barrack built municipal Regional Sports Centre Blues fans generate a noisy clubs from Dublin. you’re on main Parnell Street in town, Street, Slievekeale Road and Morrison’s in 1993, leaving former ground Kilcohan atmosphere in Block E at one end of jump on any Cork-bound bus and touch Road meet. Of its two bars, one is Park to the greyhounds. the main stand on Cork Road. From its In May 2019 the RSC will co-host the in with your Leap card – ask the driver covered in Waterford sports memorabilia. unveiling in 1993 until 2008, this old- European U-17 Championships. Later to let you off by the RSC. Stuck out way south-west of town on school grandstand with its distinctive in the summer, it should witness The only outlet near the stadium is the old main road to Cork, the RSC is glass windshields held the stadium’s Waterford’s return to European football. Tickets Rockin’ Joes aka Shake Dog, a burger- one of Ireland’s best grounds despite entire seating capacity of 1,300. With The club now has online purchase and-shakes joint done up like an its obvious use as an athletics stadium. the opening of the lower but longer Transport (waterfordfc.ie/tickets) for all American diner, on the main road by the Separating its two facing sideline stands Tramore Road Stand, this figure The stadium is way south-west of town upcoming home games. Travelodge hotel. from the football action, a running rose to over 3,000, allowing for the and too far to walk. The main service track is complemented by all the accommodation of 5,500 spectators, there is the No.360 which leaves Admission is otherwise a simple cash- There’s no bar at the ground, only hot accoutrements of jumping and throwing including standing ones. Waterford bus station every 30min only affair, the ticket office by the main and soft drinks, and filled rolls.

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