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Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya 2009

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Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya 2009 REGIONAL NOTES e HARISH KAPADIA Expeditions Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya 2009 SIKKIM Kellas Kellas Peak (6,680 m) Team :British, Leader: Jeremy Windsor For For the first time in more than 75 years a party of climbers obtained permission to retrac巴 the footsteps footsteps of historic British explorers such as Douglas Freshfield, Alexand巴r k巴llas and Frank Smythe, Smythe, visiting the mountains in th巴 northwest tip of Sikkim. Gr油am Hoyland, Mark Lambert , Anindya Mukh巴り巴e, George Rodway , Dukpa Tsering She叩 a, Phurba Phurba Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa and Jer巴my Windsor, a team that had received an Alpine Club grant and BMC approval for its innovative v巴nture, headed north from Gangtok by 4WD to the district capital of Lachen , then on to the roadhead just beyond Thangu. With the help of the In do-Tibet Border Police and a number of b巴mused yak herders，出巴 P訂ty moved west across the Lugnak la to the Lhonak vall巴y, then made a series of camps up vall巴y in an attempt to make the first ascent of Kellas Peak (6,680 m) on the Tibetan Tibetan Border north of Jongsang (7 ,462 m). During During the 1930 Kangchen unga expedition , Gunter Dyhrenfurth, Frank Smythe and other members had named 出is shapely mountain after 白e highly prolific Scottish explorer ,Dr Alexander Kellas .Kellas, who visited visited the mountains of Sikkim from 1907 to 1921, made a prodigious numb巴r of climbs in the region region and in 1910 completed no less 出an 10 first ascents over 6,000 m, including 7,125 m Pauhunri in northeast northeast Sikkim, at that time the highest summit in the World reached by man. Through his professional interest in chemistry , Kellas became an authority on the effects of high altitude altitude on th巴 human system, and questioned whether Everest could be climbed without the use of supplementary supplementary oxygen. In 1921 he explored approaches to Kabru (7,338m) to th巴 south of Kangche吋 unga and returned to Darjeeling just a few days before joining the first British Everest expedition. expedition. Sadly , during the approach through Tibet, he suffered a heart attack and died .One of 出e great British British mountain explorers of the tim巴， Kellas was a r巴tiring character, who most often climbed with local Sherpas Sherpas and, unfortunately, wrot巴 almost nothing about his mountaine巴ring experiences . This This au佃mn Jeremy Windsor’s party was able to reach Kellas Col (6,380m) a, snow saddle on 由巳 border ridge ridge south of Kellas Peak first r巴ached by Alexander Kellas during one of his unsuccessful attempts to climb climb Jongsang. Members of the party also made the first ascent of Pt 6,252 m , but frequent avalanches avalanches and di妊icult hidden crevasses put them off making a serious attempt on k巴llas Peak. However, However, the exp巴dition was able to id 巴ntify a large number of attractive unclimbed peaks in the Lugnak ,Muguthang and Lhonak valleys, which should attract mountain巴巴rs for many years to come providing providing access to this 紅巳a remains possible. ( Lindsay Griffin) Tingchen Khang (6,010 m) Team: Indian, Organisers: Chakram Hikers, Mumbai, Leader; Mangesh Deshpande A team of five mountaineers was on an expedition to attempt 出is peak in the Sikkim Himalaya. On 19 133 e JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010 October, October, Mangesh and Sekar along with two Sherpas reached the summit by 1.30 p.m. After d巴scending around 100 m on the slopes b巴low th巴 summit, they slipped and fell about 50 m. Both the members were fatally i町ured 組 d died. Sherpa 1但ngma and Sherpa Ang Dorj巴e were also severely I吋 ured. On receiving the news of the accident, rescue operations were launched with the help of local government government authorities, high altitude Sherpas and military authorities. The remoteness of the 紅ea and weather weather conditions made the rescue operations difficult. Both the Sherpas were evacuated by Indian Air Force Force helicopters and were subs巴quently admitted to the hospital and survived . UTTARAKHAND KUMAUN HIMALAYA Nanda Devi East (7,434 m) (1) (1) Team: Polish, Leader: Jan Lenczowaski Since Since the first ascent of this peak in 1939 by a Polish team the climb ers from this country has a special special affinity w1由自is high peak. The 10 member Polish te釘 n established base camp at 4,3 00 min the Lawan valley. They followed the south ridge and put up Camp 2 at 6,400 m on 22 May 2009 . They reached reached 6,900 m on th巴 route. Constant bad weather, insu伍cient time and sickness of one member made them call off the attempt. Changuch (6,322 m) (1) (1) T1巴am: British, L巴ader: Martin Moran Many teams had made attempts to this unclimbed peak in Kumaun and some of them ended in disast er. At last th巴 mountain selected its climbers and th巴 six member British team was succes sful in reaching reaching the coveted summit in the pre-monsoon season . After establishing their base camp at 4,2 75m in in the Lawan Gad, ABC at 5, 150 m and the summit camp at 5,800 m , they :followed northwest ridge of the the mountain .On 9 June 2009, Martin Moran with Robin Jarvis, Paul Guest, Leon Winchester with LO Ludar Ludar Sin gh reached the summit. They estimated the climb to be of techni cal gra de Alpine D. The y al so att巴mpted Nanda Devi east but too mu ch snow, lack of campsites 担d i出iess of two members stopped their attempt attempt at 6,050 m. (2) (2) Team: Indian, Organisers: Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar, Leader: Basanta Singha Roy Unlike Unlike the British, the seven member team from W巴st Bengal was not successful in iclimb ng the peak. peak. They crossed Trail’s pass en route and entered Lawan g ad from Pindar valley. Th巴y 巴stablished 出eir summit camp at 5,640 m on 29 August on the north west ridge connectin g Changuch with N andakhat. Technical Technical difficulties stopped the attempt at th a t point. (3) (3) Team: Indian ,Organisers: Altitude High Adventure ,Le ader: Anit Sah This This 14 m emb er Indian team also fai l ed in the post -mon soo n season due to bad we a ther and sno wfa ll. They reached 300 m above their Camp 2, which was esta blish ed at 5,180 m. Kalanka (6,931 m) Team: Netherland (Dutch), Leader: Michael Robert van Berkel From Jumm a,the 也氏e men Dutch team re a ched the base camp at Bagini Kh紅ak (4,400 m) on 19 August 2009 .They reac hed ABC at 5,000 m but could not proc ee d due to lots of s now. As a consolation, th巴y climbed climbed an unn am ed peak (6,505 m) near th eir bas e ca mp on 21 Sept emb er . 134 REGIONAL NOTES e GARHWAL HIMALAYA GANGOTRI AREA Bhagirathi Bhagirathi II (6,512 m) and III (6,454 m) Team: Slovenian, Leader: Marco Prezelj The well-known super alpinist from Slovenia visited Garhwal Himalaya with two young climbers, Rok Blagus Blagus and Luka Lindie in the post monsoon S巴ason of the year. They climbed both the peaks in alpine alpine style. Bhagirathi III was climbed by southwest face and all th巴 thre巴 reached the summit on 22 Sept巴mber 2009 .Bhagirathi II was tackled from its south face followed by south ridge and all the three climbers climbers stood on the top on 01 October 2009 . Kedarnath (6,968 m) Team : Italian , Leader: Giordani Maurizio On 12 August 2009 all the eleven m巴mbers of this Italian expedition successfully reached the summit of 出is high peak in the Gangotri glacier. They followed the むaditional route 企om their base camp at Tapov如． Meru Shark’S Fin (6,450 m) Team: Slovenian ,Leader : Silvo Karo Another well-known name from Slovenia , Silvo Karo attempted Shark’S Fin of Meru with two friends, friends, Andr巴j Grmovs巴k and Marko Lukic in August - September 2009. They established ABC at 5,160 m . But 出ey could reach only up to 5,800 m on their intended rout巴 on 出巴 east face. Lots of snowfall called for for the retr巴 at. Unnamed (6,172 m) and Swachand (6,721 m) Team: Italian ,Leader : Giambattista Villa This This unnam巴d peak is located on the left bank of Swachand glacier having geographical coordinates latitud巴 30 ° 47’ and longitude 79 ｰ 11 ’46" . In August 2009, this a member Italian team followed the traditional traditional path from Gangotri - Bhojbasa -Tapovan to Sunderban following the Gangotri glacier and established established base camp at 4,600 m .Bad weather stopped any further progre ss. CENTRAL GARHWAL Chaukhamba I (7,138 m) Team: Indian , Organisers: Summiters, Kolkata, Leader : Satyajit Kar 古田 large team from Kolkata approached 出is high mountain 企om Mana .After re a ching Bhagirath Kh紅ak glacier , th巴 y established their base camp at Ghoracha (4200 m）.百rree high camps were established .Camp 3 was established at 6100 m above th巴 icefall . They att巴mpted north face and reached just 40 m below the summit on 25 June 2009 .Bad weather stopped them from reaching the top. Deoban (6852 m) Team: Indian ,Organisers : Ordinance Factories Mountaineers & Trekkers, Leader : Samrat Basu τbe nine member te 釘n approach巴d Deoban located m 出e Amrit Ganga valley m 出e post monsoon s巴ason . They established bas巴 camp at Eri Udiyar on the right bank of Amrit Ganga .Camp 3 was established on Upper Bidhan glacier and summit camp was put up at 6,320 m. Th巴 y started climbing northw巴st ridge 佃d finally finally reached via the west ridg巴 . Leader with Ashim Ghosh, Tapas Dey, Pro s明 it Bagchi along with four high high altitude supporters r巴ach巴d th巴 summit on 28 August.
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