Caribbean Compass September 2017

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS SEPTEMBER 2017 NO. 264 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Participate in the Compass Readers’ On-line Survey 2017 CLICK LINK BELOW TO TAKE PART http://bit.ly/2eU3zsL

See story on page 17 CARRIACOU REGATTA 2017 DAVON BAKER SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 CHRIS DOYLE

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com

SEPTEMBER 2017 • NUMBER 264 CFUMEUPAULETTE LEE GCRF-USM.EDU Old Salts’ Top Tips … for Caribbean first-timers ...23 DEPARTMENTS CHRIS DOYLE Satellites Info & Updates ...... 4 Book Reviews ...... 36 Business Briefs ...... 8 The Caribbean Sky ...... 38 vs Sargasso Eco-News ...... 10 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 40 Predicting weed invasions .....13 Y2A ...... 18 What’s On My Mind ...... 41 Meridian Passage ...... 19 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Soberana Destinations ...... 21 Calendar of Events ...... 45 Yacht Rally Look Our For… ...... 34 Classified Ads ...... 46 Cruising Colombia in company .14 Island Poets ...... 35 Advertisers Index ...... 46 SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., The Valley, P.O. Box 727, Anguilla, British West Indies. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Publisher...... Tom Hopman Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Doyle on Editor...... Sally Erdle Administration...... Shellese Craigg Moorings [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Advertising Pros and cons ...... 28 [email protected] [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Carib-Asian We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Goals for Yoles Cuisine no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2017 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, Tour de la Martinique ...... 15 Island ingredients, Thai twist! ..40 except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998

On the cover: Carriacou’s mighty decked sloops race for glory in the Caribbean’s longest-running regatta. Photographer Davon Baker was on the water. See story on page 17

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘Compass has entertained and enlightened the Caribbean sailing community (indeed, the world-wide sailing community), inspired writers of all ages and abilities to share their stories, and provided the info that we all need.’ — William Pringle

Santa Marta

Cartagena

Click Google Map link below to ﬁ nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info stories, usefultoolsandlinks,perhapsbestofall,aseparatepageforevery will findguideupdates,sailors’hikes,GPSwaypoints,printabletownmaps,recycled and designedtobeusedontabletsphonesaswellcomputers.Inityou Digital GrowthinGrenada,helpedbyourownLexiFisher.Itiseasiertonavigate our website,www.doyleguides.com.ThenewdesignwasdonebyCoryZuteof Chris Doylereports:Publishingispleasedtoannouncetheredesignof Free MapsatDoyleGuides’NewWebsite

and technologicallyadvancedsailspossible. Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuildingthefinest,mostdurable CHRIS DOYLE’S CRUISING GUIDES CRUISING DOYLE’S CHRIS and ensure that group members follow the program. and ensurethatgroupmembersfollowtheprogram. people travel.Theorganizationwillneedtoprovideaprogramofqualifyingactivities It statesthatanyorganizationmaysponsoragroupforthepurposesofpeople-to- additional guidancewithregardstothetravelCubabypersonsunderUSjurisdiction. keep ourcommunitysafeandwellinformed. hand reportusingtheeasyonlineCSSNincidentreportingform,anddoyourpartto tunate circumstanceofbeingavictimyacht-basedcrime,submittimelyfirst- including thedailyKPKHFneton8104kHzat0815AST(seestorypage7). and delivertheinformationcruiserswant—when,wherehowtheyit Association (SSCA),andourall-volunteerteamcontinuestoworkhardcollect well-informed decisionsandstaysafewhileenjoyingcruisingthroughouttheregion. Get allthefactualinformationcaptainsandcrewsdependontoassessrisk,make (and ofcoursefree!)“E-mailALERTS”orfollowusonsocialmediatostayupdate. easy tonavigateandresourcerich.Wemakeiteasy.Subscribetheverypopular mation aboutcrimesagainstyachtsintheCaribbean. decades andisthego-tosourceforup-to-date,comprehensivereportsinfor- Security Net(CSSN).CSSNhasservedthecruisingcommunityformorethantwo print orcopy.Printthemoutanduseonyourshoretrips! ing thoseintheLeewardguidesthatarecurrentlybeingprinted).Theyeasyto country orislandwecover. Visit A furtherupdateisexpectedonSeptember15th. In July,theUSOfficeofForeignAssetControlDepartmentTreasuryissued Cuba RulesforUSCitizens Visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.orgformoreinformation. CSSN makesiteasyto“Knowbeforeyougo!” We alldependoneachothertoself–report,soshouldyoufindyourselfintheunfor- CSSN haspartneredformanyyearswithNoonsiteandtheSevenSeasCruising Visit theCSSNwebsitetoreviewallthatweoffer;ourisdevicefriendly, Kim Whitereports:“Knowbeforeyougo!”isthetaglineforCaribbeanSafety& Data onCrimesAgainstYachts Visit www.doyleguides.comtocheckoutthenewdesign. The townmapshavebeencompletelyupdatedandarethelatestversions(includ- Eight Bells True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda www.treasury.gov/…/Programs/…/cuba_faqs_20170725.pdf formoredetails. [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands www. Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique Kingston PJG Jamaica * DacronandHydraNet only DOYLECARIBBEAN

[email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip Six Crossroads Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados Amel ketch, down theWindwardIslandsintheir frequently seencruisingupand time residentsofGrenada,were for 49years.PatandDave,long- and wasmarriedtoDaveHadley Canada onFebruary23rd,1929 family. ShewasborninMontreal, away onJune28th,surroundedby (Pat) Hadley,aged88,passed • PATHADLEYNoreenPatricia Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix Chaguaramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent * —Continued onnextpage Tiempo .com . SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

CASSIE CORNISH Spanish , before sailing , herself nearly 50 Iolaire —Continued on next page Petrana was off in far-flung corners of the far-flung corners of was off in , their “swift Bulldozer 50”, in the early , their “swift Bulldozer Petrana Petrana performance uplift in underwater cant and finally, while and finally, rmed new Seajet 038 Taisho offers a offers Seajet 038 Taisho rmed new only three . Petrana Katina . ® Blue Peter and then Given his passion for sailing, Peter, along with Desmond Nicholson and Howard Nicholson and along with Desmond for sailing, Peter, Given his passion • JOHN “BOB MARLEY” MASON • JOHN “BOB MARLEY” Rasta Laurie Corbett reports: he no longer had the use of a container After the major changes at the marina, her around the world during summers off from the hotel. her around the world in years old, is now raced Paul. Peter Classic Week by son Life and Ann were active and Members of the AYC in the ended their sailing days Caribbean on years of Race Week, dueling intensely against Don Street on dueling intensely against Don Street on years of Race Week, world, tourist sea- mark the end of the racing event to to start a friendly Hulford, decided and chaired Peter co-founded This event, which and charter yachts. son for hotels its 50th recently celebrated Sailing Week, which became Antigua multiple times, Ann raced anniversary. Peter and Harbour, which, at the time, was a very impoverished, undeveloped and little-visited and little-visited undeveloped very impoverished, was a at the time, which, Harbour, Peter is affection- and was significant on the community impact Their positive area. a small to run dream was Peter’s village. English Harbour “Papa” in known as ately be, but Peter The flying was not to to fly and sail. he could teach guests hotel where on out for sails first delight in taking guests yachts and took always owned Main years ago at the ripe old ages years ago at the ripe of 89 and 82 respectively. known as John Mason, better name, Jahman or by his trading Bob Marley, died on August 13th, apparently of drowning. He was a daily visitor to almost every sailor who anchored in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia and to the major upgrade — for at least the past most who made use of the marina before with Bob Marley posters and memo- 20 years. The interior of his boat was decorated a constant partier at the Gros Islet Friday rabilia. When his health was better, he was him, socialized with him, and enjoyed his Night Jump Up. Many of us bought from as a service provider to yachties and tour- company over the years. During his time girlfriends). ists, he made many long-term friends (and told by officials that his larger boat was not on previously unused property and was was attempting to manage the deficien- properly fitted out for a water taxi. As he repairs began to mount. These difficul- cies, his engine began failing, and his boat efforts usually attributed to the ties, along with the tempering of constructive with his bad leg and general health Rastafarian culture and increasing difficulty life. Still, he would be out in the smaller decline, had significant impact on his later the late-arriving French ones) until dusk, boat, going from yacht to yacht (especially way back to the marina and the bus sys- then slowly, laboriously, paddling all the of the paddle. His positive attitude, will- tem, regardless of the weather or the quality deity, never wavered. ingness to socialize, and his belief in a benevolent ” in (596) [0]596 68 21 28 www.wind.mq (596) [0]596 68 21 28 Tiempo ’Tis all a Chequer- , which they raced suc- Next generation eco-responsible antifoul for yachts is now here! is now antifoul for yachts eco-responsible Next generation www.seajetpaint.com in the Caribbean Distributed + by WIND, Martinique: + (590) [0]590 99 27 69 www.wind.gp by WIND, Guadeloupe: Antifoul tests in Caribbean waters have conﬁ have in Caribbean waters tests Antifoul Taisho SEAJET 038 100% eco-responsible alternative with a signiﬁ alternative 100% eco-responsible of slime. and the prevention of plant and shell growth the infestation against by applying environment your and protect conscience your to Listen with ECONEA Seajet 038 Taisho Kelpie , published in 2005. He was predeceased, in January, Born in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex in 1924, English Harbour Yacht Club, later renamed the Antigua Yacht Club. by his wife of 62 years, Ann. Peter and Ann led a very full and interest- ing life, which he documented in an autobiography, Board Peter briefly attended Oxford University before being sent to Canada to train as a pilot for the Royal Air Force in 1942. He flew for the RAF until 1947, ending up as a captain in command of a B24 Amor, salud y tiempo para disfrutarlos para salud y tiempo Amor, The future is clean future The while at anchor in Martinique. while at anchor Tiempo Use Biocides Safely. Always read read Always Use Biocides Safely. use. before information the label and product Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Pat is survived by and will be sadly missed by her brother, her four children, her will be sadly missed by her brother, her Pat is survived by and in time. Donations service in Grenada at a future point There will be a memorial • PETER DEETH we announce the reports: It is with great sadness that The Antigua Yacht Club Dave’s work as a young man had involved traveling in Europe and Latin America. in Europe and Latin had involved traveling as a young man Dave’s work was spent in the focus of Pat’s life. Her childhood Family and friends were The boat was named for the Spanish toast, “ the Spanish for was named The boat conversation with friends. She sailed and traveled widely throughout her life and She sailed and traveled widely throughout conversation with friends. like a master storyteller. shared these experiences in Grenada and her great-granddaughter, and all her friends grandchildren, and throughout the islands. Rotary Club of Grenada. may be made to The on August 9th. Peter of 30-plus years, Peter Deeth, who died death of our Admiral avid supporter of the commodore several times, and was the founding member, to India to join his father’s import-export bomber in the Far East. Peter then moved his first boat, business where he met Ann and bought moved to Trinidad in 1957, with daugh- cessfully together. They married in 1954 and airline pilot and was hired by British ter Alison, after Peter retrained as a commercial an early retirement from flying and West Indies Airlines. A detached retina forced and Astrid, to Antigua in 1960 where Peter brought Peter, Ann and daughters, Alison opened The Inn at English Harbour. They and Ann added a son, Paul, and built and bring tourism and employment to English operated The Inn for 30 years, helping to After the birth of their first two children, Dave and Pat moved to Venezuela, where a Pat moved to Venezuela, children, Dave and of their first two After the birth friend with the help of their they discovered, While living there, third was born. whole fami- time in Venezuela the During their the island of Grenada. Jeanne Fisher, for months in the kids staying vacation, with Pat and to Grenada for ly often came and the island and its people their love for There they developed rented homes. one day, plan of moving there, formed itself into the life. And this love their way of an emphasis on sailing. to start a new life with was a collection of was Grenada. The tapestry of her days Montreal, but her home cockpit of and precious moments sitting in the music, prodigious reading — “Love, health and the time to enjoy them”. In 2000, Dave died of natural causes of natural died In 2000, Dave them”. time to enjoy and the health — “Love, aboard — SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 be aroundRandywastoaboardaCalypsopartythatlastedformanydecades, same time,inthebed.AndyetIfeltnoenvy,really,justmaleadmiration.To with oneofthoseyoungladies—Iwonderedifhe’dsleepallthree,atthe that firstnightofour35-year-longfriendship,Ididn’twonderifRandywouldsleep help bloom. sometimes more). women andadoredRandy.Itwasamutualadmirationsocietyoftwo(well, that RandywasacocksmanorDonJuan—I’msayingadored Randy lovedmostwaswomen.Now,pleasedon’tgetmewrong.I’mnotsaying really definedRandywashisloveoflife.Heatruebonvivant.Andthething wonderful ship’shusbandto helmed mostoftheGunboatcatsthatventuredintotropics.Sure,hewasa catamaran neededtobedeliveredanywhereintheworld,he’ddoit.Certainly,he pered OlafandPeterHarken’sexperimentalbipod-rigged Randy’s smileisbrighterthanthesun.) exaggerating. Thus,Iflippedthrough100+photosofRandyingroups.Ineachone, ful jokeandRandywasjustabouttoshareit.(Whilewritingthis,Iworriedmightbe he speak spoke French. ing mytwosternlines. dialect) whileseamlesslytend- a Rastafarian(inWestIndian and Spanish)jokingwith chicks (inFrench,German, was flirtingwiththreeEuro Gustavia inthelate’70s.He met himwhilegoingstern-toin cockpit-cushions-smile. Ifirst weed-stuffed-between-the- I-just-found-an-ounce-of- lowed-the-canary-smile, an watt smile,acat-that-swal- Smile. Randyhadamega- think ofRandy,IThe on August15th.WheneverI reports: D.RandyWestdied winds andfast,irresponsibleboaters. could notstandtoseehimdisappearingintothedusk,riskingdangerfromhigh buying hisproducts,andespecially,runninghimbackintothemarinawhenwe — When RandyfinallystaggeredoutofLeSelectwiththosethreelovelylovelieson Each womantoRandywasabeautifulpuzzlebeunlocked,uniqueflower Sure, Randywasanexcellentsailor,yachtsman,andyachtracer.Sureheskip- Randy wasn’tmerelyhappy—Godhadjusttoldaveryfunny,insight- “Some menzeespeak‘menu’French,”shetoldmewithasensuoussmile.“Randy, Later thatevening,drunkatLeSelect,IaskedtheFrenchgirlhowwellRandy Captain FattyGoodlander • DRANDYWEST Many ofustooktolookingoutforJohnovertheyears,helpinghimwithlunches, Continued frompreviouspage boudoir The enginesarenowdiscontinued butwehaveastockofthelastthem. French. AndGerman.Spanish.” ekn 15Mrn niePerkinsM225Ti MarineEngine Perkins M135MarineEngine Ppalu The PerkinsM135andM225Tiare thelastnewnon-electronic . Yes,hewasanexpertmultihullsailor.Butwhat 6 cylindermarineenginesavailable onthemarket. Contact Parts& Power todaywhilststockslast! Procyon The LastoftheirBreeds... . Yes,ifaSpronk surf abitcloser.Finallyourfranticskipperbarked,“Don’teven stock-market guy,wasgettingnervous.Witheachwave,theovertakingboatwould astern, whichweowedtimeto,wasreelingusin.OurNYskipper,averyaggressive One yearduringASW,IwastrimmingmainonaJ/35fromNYC.Graduallytheboat aligned withthescene,tofeedmyhead,learnwhowasinrehab,jail,orheaven. decades. Eachtime,oneofthefirstthingsI’ddowasfindRandytogetmyself to beintheinnermostof‘in’crowdLesserAntilles. cated tosailorsturnedintoonemorefor-profitboozedispensary. to theSt.MaartenYachtClub.Mostly,itmadeussad—seeacluboncededi- wasn’t ameanboneinhislanky,freckledbody. fun guytobewith,alwaysdeeplyconsiderateofthepeoplearoundhim.There Randy, Ineversawhimmisbehave.Hewasalwaysaperfectgentleman, wife usedtoexploreinnerandouterspaceinthefastlane.ButaszonkedIsaw Lazy, DavidWegman,JeanClaude,HarrytheRasta,FastEddyandTimothyLeary’s Paul Johnson,MadDogMark,thePirateQueen,UncleFoot,LesAnderson,Lovik blue fenderlights—well,I ful nightatAutourDuRocherwhenIwasabductedbyaliensinapick-uptruckwith him “RandyWasted”occasionally—allingoodfun.Andhewaswithmethatfate- sleep whenweweredead—andmostofusaredead.And,yeah,Iusedtocall on heavyfuelbackinthosedays—everyoneatLeSelectdid.Wefiguredwe’d Randy explain“howdeseislandswork,meson”totheaudience. turned toRandy.AndIcanstillrememberthecrowdhowlingwithlaughteras sailor whokneweveryyachtracerintheCaribbean,EastCoast,andEurope—he When SirRobbieFerronneededanonstagefoiltohelpMCtheHeinniewith—some him abeer.”(Averyfamouslocalstoryfromtheyachtingannalsof’70s.) his boatandsailbacktoLeSelectwhereweallhelpcutoffde’cuffsbuy Street. Whenhehitdepavement,thatchairdoneshatterandrunbackto moment andsohehopdatchairovertodewindowtosshimselfoutontoMain Police DepartmentinSintMaarten—onlydesillyDutchpolicemanlefthimfora in Philipsburgtheearly’80sandentirebarwouldhangoneveryword. crew easedthemainandsailedcleanlythroughourlee. and thatwouldn’thavebeensobadbutthenheadded,“…nof’nway,MFer!” I attendedeveryHeinekenRegattaandAntiguaSailingWeekformorethantwo Two monthsago,uponcompletingourthirdcircumnavigation,mywifeandIwent Anyway Randy,I,LuluMagras,MadMurphy,ChrisCrawford,Thorpe,JohnFrith, Now, tobeperfectlyhonest,Randy,I,andmanyother“oldCaribbeanhands”ran Oh, yes,Randywasaraconteur—andcouldevenholdpeninhishandaswell. “Andden,”Randywouldsay,“Datfellowfoundhimselfshackledtoachairinde Oh, Randywasblessed.He’dstarttotellastorysolitarygirlattheRustyPelican And Isaidbackinawe,“Irie,Randy,Irie!” “IsdatdeFatMon?”heasked. And asheacceleratedaway,Randyspottedmewascheckingoutourrailbeef. He’d justtotallyhumiliatedourskipper—inamostgentlemanlyway. And thestockbrokerguyturnedsharplyintowindtoblock—justasRandy’s There wasthesoundofsailsflapping,sheetstwanging,winchesspinning. Then Randylookedathiscrewandsaid“Let’sgoup… Randy Westslowlystoodupatthehelm,grinned,andsaid,“…uptight,arewe?” I, andalmostallthelocalcrew,winced. think theywerealiens. —Continued onpage33 up think !” aboutit,fellow!” SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 La , in . Tothill S/V La Luna , who had just S/V Sunrise .] See more information about CSSN in Info &See more information about CSSN in Info questions prior to their arrival in Mexico. CSSN’s primary mission is the collection and dis- CSSN’s primary mission KPK can assist with radio checks, float plans, tele- float plans, checks, with radio can assist KPK & Caribbean Safety partnership with the Through a How KPK Helps all ves- Although KPK is a service provided by SSCA, to beOne of the first “customers” of KPK happened Comments or suggestions regarding KPK may be sent Recently, KPK assisted a cruiser who departed from Recently, KPK assisted a cruiser who departed vessel Also, recently, KPK was contacted by a fishing These are just a few of the dozens of times when KPK Glenn Tuttle, an amateur radio enthusiast (K9TUT), is on semination of accurate information relating to crimessemination of accurate cruisers toagainst yachts in the Caribbean, enabling where theymake intelligent decisions about how and cruise. [ phone contact with family and friends, boat-to-boat boat-to-boat and friends, with family contact phone professionals, or mechanical medical access to relays, any other assistance Internet searches, or marinas, be able to provide. that we may any Net, (www.safetyandsecuritynet.com) Security the nature occurring in safety and security report of a pro- will be immediately and made to KPK Caribbean any recent incident the CSSN. Likewise, vided to be announced during the CSSN website will posted on KPK’s broadcast. Updates on page 4 also welcomes sels are welcome to participate. KPK relay assistance. SSCA members cruising on their boat, Panama. They were returning to the States via thePanama. They were returning to the stop inYucatan, and needed to make an unscheduled on the morn- Isla Mujeres, Mexico. They contacted KPK on anchoring net and asked if we had any information in Islaages and Customs and Immigration procedures to anotherMujeres. I was able to make a phone patch SSCA member, Bob on to [email protected]. returned from Mexico. Bob was able to answer all of returned from Mexico. Bob was able to answer it to an Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, only to make his injector anchorage near Isla Margarita where this cruiser pump failed. KPK stayed in touch with and contact throughout his difficulty, lending support in case of an emergency. stays in out of Roatan, Honduras. The captain usually off fishing for HF contact with his family while he is was having weeks at a time. The HF radio on shore his base problems and the captain could not contact station. KPK was able to make contact for him and pass the necessary information for his family to restore service to the shore-based radio. has been of assistance to mariners, or to the United States Coast Guard in locating overdue vessels. All vessels are welcome to the assistance of KPK. the Board of Directors of SSCA, and serves as the Net Manager for SSCA Radio Station KPK. He is also the immediate past Commodore and Net Manager of the 52-year old Waterway Radio & Cruising Amateur Radio Club and a member of the Cruising Club of America. Glenn is active in the US Coast Guard Auxiliary HF Program and the Department of Homeland Security’s SHARES HF Program. He and his wife, Eddie, and boat dog, Peppino, cruise aboard their 46-foot Grand Banks, Luna’s , Bahamas Chatter and others. Right: The Tuttles cruise aboard their Grand Banks Right: The Tuttles cruise aboard their Grand What is KPK? Two years ago, SSCA applied for and was granted a The purpose of this service is to: • Pass emergency and priority traffic, as well as traf- • Provide current news updates of interest to cruisers • Provide any vessels needing assistance with land- Often times, the US Coast Guard asks that reports ofOften times, the US “on-the-ground” support SSCA currently provides which widens the support of cruising stations over which widens the support of cruising stations over the air, extending a helping hand to any cruiser with an HF radio. Public Coast Station License, call sign “KPK”, by the FCC. At the present time, KPK broadcasts on frequency 8.104 for 15 minutes beginning at 1215 hours UTC, or 0815 EDT, and 0745 EST. The KPK Service is purposely sched- uled to immediately follow the Coconut Telegraph Net, and come immediately before the Cruiseheimers Net. fic related to safety and security. from such sources as the Caribbean Safety & Security Net, Noonsite, The Salty Southeast Cruisers Net, Caribbean Compass based resources. kHz), or participating on regional nets such as the nets such regional on or participating kHz), Net Telegraph kHz), Coconut Net (8.152 Cruiseheimers kHz), NW (8.107 Net Connection kHz), Panama (8.170 the (6.209 kHz), and and SW Caribbean Nets Caribbean the kHz), this is how Doo Dah Net (8.152 afternoon on a daily basis. communicates cruising community well- of several nets are the equivalent These daily the Radio nets servicing respected Amateur known and &the Waterway Radio such as cruising community the Maritime Mobile (7.268 kHz), and Cruising Club Times, and further infor- (14.300 kHz). Service Network other maritime nets, may be foundmation on these and at www.docksideradio.com.on a printable format to navigation, and other seri- overdue vessels, hazards be relayed via these nets. But it isous matters of safety themselves who must useoften the vessel operators a Mayday, broadcast a Pan-Pantheir HF radios to send safety messages, or requestmessage, report routine from land-based resources.some form of assistance our worldwide network of cruising to cruisers through recently initiated a SSB Voice Net, stations. SSCA has Above: Here to help: Glenn and Peppino at the KPK station Above: Here to help: Glenn and Peppino at

by Glenn Tuttle

KPK

SSCA SSCA

Station Station Radio Radio even Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) is the even Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) sup- oldest and largest worldwide organization SSCA porting the full-time cruising lifestyle.

Whether tuning in to weather router Chris Parker of HF/Single Sideband Radios It is not an overstatement to say the majority of off- With the advent of the Internet, e-mail, cell phones, S the Marine Weather Center for weather forecasts (8.137 shore bluewater cruisers have a high frequency radio on board their vessel. While many cruisers are licensed Hams (Amateur Radio License holders), the majority rely on the use of marine HF/Single Sideband (SSB) radios. Each morning these cruisers start their day by listening to, and participating in, SSB radio nets, and often end their day checking into nets as well. and social media, most people have the capability of being connected 24/7. This is not the case for a vast majority of the cruising community who elect to cruise in remote locations of our globe. For those cruisers, the principal way to remain connected is through high frequency (HF) radio. focuses on promoting safety and fellowship among the focuses on promoting safety and fellowship cruising community. A primary means of promoting these objectives is through communications. SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Marine andabout theimprovementsthathave beencarriedoutrightaway. informed youabout thechangeofownership andmanagementofCuraçao However, ourtaglinestillremains “Weloveboats”! forms providedtothemforthe season—Tees,shirts,polos,coverallsandboots. green ontheirbrandnewlogo andbuildings.Thestaffproudlywearsthenewuni- electricity andIWWchandlerywhichisbasedonsite.Grenada MarineisaPortofEntry. dry, avegetablemarket,deliciousrestaurant(Laura’s),washrooms andshowers, ing application/hullpolishing/brightwork. canvas/sail loft,woodworkandcarpentry,metalworkfabrication, andantifoul- ing, Awlgrip/Awlcraftpainting,electrical/electronic/HVAC,mechanical, riggingand hot-vac system,specializedsteelboatprojectsforrustremoval treatmentandseal- use ofourdustlessblastsystem,hulldryingforosmosistreatment withtheuseofour ites, Coppercoatapplication,coatingremovalandsurface preparation withthe out andstorageareasbyboattype. and maintenance. standing technicalworkandextendedqualityservicesin boatstorage,repairs plete refit,GrenadaMarineistheidealchoiceforyou! for summerstorage,atopsidere-spray,simplebottomjob,re-powerorcom- tems andmechanicalworkshops.Inaddition,wehaverelocatedtheadministrative Engineering Buildingatthetopofyard,whichhousesmetalshop,andsys- that allowsustohandlemanyjobswithouthaulingtheyacht.GMhasalsoaddedan and althoughnotcompletewehaveaddeda100-metre(330-foot)dockextension of Life.” proud togiveourcustomersaproductthatenablesthemlivetheSuzukiWay Rosario, salesandmarketingmanagerofSuzukiintheCaribbean.“Wearevery ity ofourproductsandthereputationthatbrandhasinindustry,”saidErving fresh airflowtoeachcylinder. tem, whichprovidesabetterengineperformancewithdesignthat shaft, andbearingsinthelowerunit.Finally,thereisSemi-DirectAirIntakesys- regular andcounterrotationbyincorporatingaspecial,unifieddesignofgears, tioned theSuzukiSelectiveRotationsystem,whicheliminatesneedtostockboth tem thateliminatesfrictionandresistanceinthecontrols.Themagazinealsomen- features. OneofthemistheSuzukiPrecisionControl,acutting-edgeelectronicsys- the industry,innovationandimprovementstocustomerexperience. DF175AP and150APoutboardswiththeTopProduct2017Awardfortheirimpacton BUSINESS BRIEFS Nicole vanBeusekom reports:Inpreviousissues of Improvement andInvestment Plans forCuraçaoMarine For moreinformationonGrenada Marineseeadonpage19. Effective thisseason,“one-stop shop”issportingmarineblueandelectriclime We alsooffer24-hoursecurity,moorings,afuelstation,WiFiconnection, servicedlaun- Our repair,refitandmaintenanceservicesincludefiberglass andexoticcompos- For specialtystorage,weofferone-piecesteelcradles,tie-down anchorsthrough- The professionalandexperiencedteamatGrenadaMarine providesout- Tracy St.Louisreports:GrenadaMarineisintheprocessofrestructuringitsentireyard Check OuttheNewGrenadaMarine! For moreinformationonSuzukidelCaribeseeadpage7. “This isthethirdtimethatSuzukihaswonTopProductAward,showingqual- Both enginescapturedtheawardthankstoseveraltechnicalandperformance Luriel Laboyreports: Suzuki OutboardsWinTopProductAward Boating IndustryMagazine recentlyhonoredSuzukiMarine’s Caribbean Compass or small. for yourboat,beitlarge all aspectsofwhatisbest who canadviseyouon on experiencedcaptain yard managerisahands- S&S 48.Ourmultilingual refits, orsailingonhisown on diveships,managing sailing vessels,engineer industry ascaptainon experience inthemarine Zealand, has25years’ yard managerfromNew the sizeofsailloft. allowed ustoincrease dlery. Thismovehas Island WaterWorldchan- building isnowhometo The formeradministration team allinonebuilding. agement andbackoffice supervisors, projectman- can meetthetechnical office, wherecustomers —Continued on nextpage Whether youarelooking Dale Selvam,ournew we SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 —Continued on page 32 [Caribbean Sail Cargo Initiative] is offer- we would like to introduce the new man- Ruth Ruth The Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina family would like to

Caribbean Compass will set sail from Barbados on September 20th, with five trainees Ruth Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Schooner Do you wish to have a career at sea, train as a yacht captain or join the racing Do you wish to have a career at sea, train as a yacht captain or join the racing The Barbados-built trading schooner For those who could not secure a haulout with us this year, we encourage you to For those who could not secure a haulout with us this year, we encourage you to We encourage customers to stay connected with us on Facebook, Instagram and For more information on Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina see ad on page 18. Training Aboard the Schooner At the end of 2017 - Reinforcement of the asphalted terrain to sustain heavier At the end of 2017 - Reinforcement of the supply connections will be placed at In early 2018 - New electricity and water offer duty-free shopping to sailors in transit 2017/2018 - Working on the possibility to to be able to offer customers the 2018/2019 - Building on-site accommodation improvements planned at the yard; These are just a few of the major and minor In the next issue of For more information on Curaçao Marine see ad on page 27. For more information on Curaçao Marine Clarkes Court Thanks You for a Fantastic Summer 2017! Arlene Telesford reports: In this issue, as promised, we share some of the future improvement and investment and investment future improvement some of the we share issue, as promised, In this will be arriving at the marina shallow spot just before The visibility of the This month! will be and 60-ton trailers on both the 40- - Further maintenance During 2017 ing Boatmaster Offshore 1 training with a pathway to Master of Yachts 200 Commercial Endorsement ticket. (aged 18 to 24 years) and six guest crew for 20 weeks and 4,500 nautical miles through the Eastern Caribbean, with 21-day return voyages to and stops at Barbados, Grenada, the Grenadines (White Island, Saline, Savan, Canouan, and Bequia), St. Vincent (Wallilabou), Montserrat, Saba, St. Kitts, St. Martin and Dominica, culminating in January 2018 with the Mount Gay Barbados Regatta and the Barbados to Antigua Ocean Race. crew of a Grand Banks schooner? book early for the 2018 season. Twitter for what we have coming up. loads. With the addition of the 60-ton trailer a few years ago the yachts being loads. With the addition of the 60-ton trailer bigger! hauled out at Curaçao Marine keep getting the marina. at Curaçao Marine. to opt for a comfortable stay in one of choice of living aboard their yacht or the apartments. to the to-do list along the way. The new points of improvement might be added to keep looking at the opportunities to raise new managing board finds it important level. As you can read, improvements are the quality of Curaçao Marine to a higher aspects of the business. All changes and being made and will be made to various the customer experience. The improvements will directly or indirectly benefit is looking forward to welcoming new Curaçao Marine managing team and crew and returning customers to the yard! agement to the readers, so stay tuned for that! If you don’t want to wait for the next agement to the readers, so stay tuned for the website www.curacaomarine.com, or issue, look up Curaçao Marine online! Visit Instagram. You can also subscribe to our follow Curaçao Marine on Facebook and in your mailbox! quarterly News Flash to receive yard updates take this opportunity to thank all our customers who hauled out with us for summer 2017, which allowed us to be fully booked for the season! We appreciate that persons allowed us to show them why they are the reason we haul boats. — with you. plans and reflec- or welcome sign are placing a warning For safety reasons we improved. the water. tive lights in carried out. SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

SONIA JIND the effectsofoceanwarming.Itsaidvariousthreats in thePacificbecauseofhumanpressuresaddingto overall Caribbeanreefsareinworseshapethanthose threatened withextinctionintheregion,although by fishers. threatened speciestargeted thynnus bluefin tuna( and theendangeredAtlantic ( vulnerable redsnapper many species. feeding groundsfor which providehabitatsand of coralreefsandestuaries, dation andthedegradation ing, invasivelionfishpre- are threatenedbyoverfish- shorefishes intheCaribbean five percentofmarinebony report notesthataround ciated withreefhabitat.The fishing arecommonlyasso- Species threatenedbyover- countries andterritories. shore across38Caribbean species foundnearthe assessments of1,360fish Red Listreportincludes towards extinction. including foodsourcesliketunasandgroupers, Caribbean andPacificislandsarepushingmanyfish, fishing andthedegradationofcoralreefsacross (IUCN) announcedinanewreportJunethatover- Caribbean [email protected] www.barefootyachts ECO

Lutjanus campechanus IUCN saidthatfewerindividualcoralspeciesare In theCaribbean, The GreaterCaribbean The InternationalUnionforConservationofNature Marine Species Well-Managed MPAsOfferHopeforEndangered Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS -FULLYCREWEDCHARTERSASASAILINGSCHOOL ) areamongthe Thunnus -News

) Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144 Fax.1-784-456-9238 PO Box39,BlueLagoon,StVincent,West Indies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurfShop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant&Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •Refrigeration Work • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters MPA management is akeypartof (www.agrra.org), AGRRA program that donebythe reefs’ health,suchas Careful monitoringof and businesses. Environment (ANAP),localcommunityorganizations the NationalProtectedAreasAgencyofMinistry through ahighlycollaborativeprocessthatinvolved non-government organization,andacontractor oped byTheNatureConservancy,FoProBiM,alocal for thesurroundingcoastalcommunities.Itwasdevel- Protected Areaandtosupportsustainablelivelihoods marine andcoastalenvironmentalongtheThreeBays ernment. Thepurposeoftheplanistoconserve plan forThreeBaysNationalParktotheHaitiangov- Pacific inthefaceofmountingthreats.Inanextreme- resilience ofmarinespeciesintheCaribbeanand aged marineprotectedareas(MPAs)canincreasethe Critically Endangered,”itadded. and vitalforthesurvivalofreefs,arebothclassedas important reef-buildingcoralspeciesintheCaribbean endemic, branchingcorals,whichareamongthemost mata particularly affectingtheElkhorncoral( are flatteningreefsacrossmuchoftheCaribbean, Jeantel Joseph,DirectorofANAPtheHaiti There ishope,however.“Weknowthatwell-man- ) andStaghorncoral( present thefirstmanagement in PortauPrince,Haitito (CMBP) heldapublicmeeting Marine BiodiversityProgram Presented Management Plan for moreinformation. island-fisheries-–-iucn-reports er-caribbean-and-pacific- ing-reef-decline-threaten-great- secretariat/201706/overfish- Biodiversity Unit. of theIUCNMarine Kent Carpenter,themanager practices areminimized,”said tively, anddestructivefishing ed areasaremanagedeffec- be boostedtoensureprotect- tion betweencountriesshould inter-governmental coopera- nated bysmallislandstates, ly species-richregiondomi- Acropora cervicornis On June20th,theCaribbean Haiti’s FirstMPA See www.iucn.org/news/ National Park Haiti’s ThreeBays Caracol Bayin Acropora pal-

). “These WWW.ACCOUNTABILITYCOUNSEL.ORG work allovertheregion.” lar challenges.Thechancetoshareideasimprovesour different culturesandlanguages,butweallfacesimi- brought peopleherefromdozensofislands.Wehave diversity ofourmembersisevenmoreimportant.We Sorenson. “Welovethevarietyofbirdshere,but Diversity,” explainsBirdsCaribbeanDirectorLisa ly 150presentationsandworkshopsoverfivedays. 21st InternationalConference.Theeventincludednear- servationists cametogetherinCubaatBirdsCaribbean’s events intheircommunities. profits, schools,parksandotherorganizationsdevelop by BirdsCaribbeaneachspring,anddozensofnon- regional eventsaboutbirdsandnature.Itisorganized Endemic BirdFestivalisoneoftheCaribbean’sonly and manyarealreadyindanger.TheCaribbean tion. TheCaribbeanishometomanyendemicspecies, or withinasmallrange—areatspecialriskofextinc- bird feeders. festival attendeesplantedcoconuttreesandpainted birds touseinclassesyear-round.OnSt.Martin, training workshopgaveteacherslearningtoolsabout stand atalocalmarket.InPuertoRico,special was broughttothestreetswithabirdeducation lives onlyonHispaniola.InTrinidad,birdeducation celebrated theendangeredRidgway’sHawk,which In theDominicanRepublic,Ridgway’sHawkDay view ofbirdsthroughbinocularsorascope. For many,itwastheirfirstchancetogetanup-close out intonaturetoseetheseamazingbirdsfirsthand. region. Guidedbirdwalksbroughtpeopleofallages birds thatliveonlyonspecificislandsorinthe many islandstohelppeopleunderstandtheunique dents, adultsandfamilies.Birdtalkswereheldon birds thatliveonlyhere. events tookplaceondifferentislandstocelebratethe Caribbean EndemicBirdFestival.Dozensoffestival experiences withbirdsandnatureduringJune’s ment-plan-of-the-three-bays-national-park.html 21297-haiti-environmentpresentation-of-the-manage- lation alongthecoasts.” Haiti —withthepotentialtoregeneratefishpopu- become amodelforallthemarineprotectedareasof posed zoningandtheFisheriesSectorActionPlanwill fishing communities.Ifproperlyimplemented,thepro- between ANAP,thefisheriesdepartment,andlocal effectively managetheParkwillrequirecollaboration ment inthisareafortheirlivelihoodsandincome.To Park dependonahealthymarineandcoastalenviron- and othercommunitymembersatThreeBaysNational and AquacultureDirectorate,added,“Localfishers USAID fortheirsupport.” ment planandweareverythankfultoTNC during thisprocessofdevelopmentmanage- the successofthisplan.ANAPhaslearnedsomuch in closecollaborationwiththelocalcommunitiesfor port tothisprocess—recognizingtheneedwork of Haitistandsreadytoprovidethenecessarysup- Park andamodelforthecountry.TheGovernment for effectivemanagementatThreeBaysNational one forHaiti—isamajorstepandanimportanttool noted, “ThisMPAmanagementplan—theveryfirst Ministry ofEnvironment,whoattendedthemeeting, “This year’sthemewasCelebratingCaribbean In July,morethan200scientists,teachersandcon- Endemic birds—thosethatliveonlyononeisland Other activitieswereasdiversetheregionitself. Activities wereheldforpre-schoolandprimarystu- Thousands ofpeoplethroughouttheregionhadfun Throughout Caribbean Thousands EnjoyBirdExperiences Read thefullstoryatwww.haitilibre.com/en/news- Jean RobertBadio,DirectoroftheHaitiFisheries —Continued onnextpage .com SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 This year, you can also bid on various other items, Visit www.stcbfundraising.org and This year’s camp received support from a diverse from a diverse camp received support This year’s is the way to go, it has to start “Working with kids “It was rewarding to see how Robin Ramdeen said, is a great Camp leader, Veta Wade said, “This camp Contact Robin Ramdeen Bonaire Fundraiser for Sea Turtle Conservation Did you know that the Sea Turtle Conservation such as a spa weekend at the luxurious Santa Barbara Resort on Curaçao (including a 60-minute Yucahu massage for two!), and a two-night stay at the charm- ing El Encanto Boutique Hotel on Bonaire. www.bonaireturtles.org for more information. tions and habitats. Its approach is to engage stake- is to engage Its approach and habitats. tions locally to design needed the tools provide holders, pro- policymaking the facilitate policies, appropriate effective implementation build capacity for cess, and success and long-term Children had lessons agencies. group of government Roy Doug Beazer and Fisheries staff from Barbuda Education Officer of Environment Morris, Department Kendra Beazer Barbuda Council members Arica Hill, school teacher Sophia Hope, and secondary and Asha first time the Antigua & Barbuda Charles. This was the participated in the Blue Department of Environment Halo Kids Ocean Camp. to work,” said Doug Beazer of with them for things Asha Hope added, “I hope that the Barbuda Fisheries. importance of the ocean, in terms children realize the food, in terms of our survival as of jobs, in terms of is great because it really teaches people. This camp the ocean clean and the overall them about keeping importance of the ocean.” were about the ocean lessons and excited the children this experience will have a beach cleanups. I believe children and will grow their inter- lasting effect on the are our est in marine conservation. These students continue to future and with their passion we can improve our marine environment on Barbuda,” and collabo- example of how shared love of the ocean and edu- ration between islands can empower, inspire I look for- cate the future generation and our people. throughout ward to seeing more partnerships like this most valuable the Caribbean as we work to protect our resource: The Caribbean Sea.” information. at [email protected] for more will take Bonaire (STCB) Fundraising Auction, which than beau- place on November 25th, will include more tiful artwork? The Waitt Institute has has The Waitt Institute boat trip to the Frigate Bird to the Frigate Bird boat trip and a pier clean- Sanctuary, camp provided 31 up. The seven through students ages the Holy Trinity 12 from the opportunity School with Barbuda’s marine to explore first-hand environment activi- through ocean-themed trips. ties, lessons and field The Waitt Institute sponsored led by this weeklong camp, of Aqua Veta Wade, founder Fins. Montserrat and Fish’n Ocean organized the Kids since Camp every summer a starting Blue Halo Barbuda, and comprehensive ocean project, coastal management get in 2012. “These camps students out of the classroom The Waitt Institute endeavors to ensure ecologically, The Waitt Institute endeavors to ensure and encourage hands-on learning about the ocean, in and encourage hands-on Robin the ocean,” said Waitt Institute Site Manager, with govern- Ramdeen. “The Waitt Institute partners ocean ments to develop and implement sustainable We strongly policies through Blue Halo Barbuda. the ocean is believe that educating communities about leaders and key to fostering a generation of ocean the long run,” ensuring sustainable resource use in Manager. added Ute Zischka, Waitt Institute Program use of ocean economically, and culturally sustainable governments resources. The Institute partners with compre- committed to developing and implementing solutions hensive, science-based, community-driven goal is to ben- for sustainable ocean management. Its fish popula- efit coastal communities while restoring taught children about ocean conservation and marine and conservation about ocean children taught included also Activities Barbuda. around biology a to local beaches, trips field snorkeling, swimming, Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Kids’ Ocean Camp Held in Barbuda annual Kids The Waitt Institute hosted the fifth For more information visit birdscaribbean.org or find For more information visit birdscaribbean.org Researchers sharing their work give ideas that can Researchers sharing their work give ideas BirdsCaribbean is the region’s largest conservation conservation largest is the region’s BirdsCaribbean Ocean Camp from July 24th to July 28th. The camp Ocean Camp from July 24th to July 28th. BirdsCaribbean on Facebook. help save birds. Members learn how birds recover after help save birds. Members learn how birds shade trees hurricanes or prosper when farmers plant tools over their coffee. Then they can bring bird-saving back to their own islands. Festival, which highlights birds found only in the Festival, which highlights year. At the region, reach over 100,000 people each islands conference, festival coordinators from different inspired to share ideas and activities. Others are first time. launch festivals on their islands for the group. Programs like the Caribbean Endemic Bird Endemic Caribbean like the Programs group. — SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 See why theCaribbean To ﬁndouthow youcanmake alasting impactonconservationintheCaribbean andto reefs onwhichwealldepend.We needyourhelptoprotect ourwaters andourwayoflife. worksthroughouttheregion toprotectThe NatureConservancy seas, coastlines, andcoral is worth defending. Join The Nature Conservancy andhelpusDefend Paradise. join ourcampaigntoDefendParadise, visit nature.org/defendparadise . SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 e GRENADA ell! is available Parts & S we s ne Compass hat Genui ce w es cannot be matched. vi Marine Insurance My claims settlement record Vehicle Sales & Service Vehicle ser www.caribbeanhorizons.com www.street-iolaire.com [email protected] e Discover Grenada with Discover Yamaha Certified Technicians Certified Yamaha insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. We service what we sell! We W insurance, but there is no good cheap free online, just drop a note to Honda, Mazda and Ford Dealership No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap on the list — it’s as easy as that! “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] INTYRE BROS. LTD. BROS. 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M Grenada St George’s Blue, True

USF.EDU —Continued on page 32 which could provide early

These data are used to model the movements of sar- Another effort to provide a satellite tracking applica- Heavy mats of sargassum along the shoreline, such asHeavy mats of sargassum and keeping informed about the Becoming proactive as that Some Caribbean island governments, such Satellites Spot Sargassum facili- Over the past several years, several research on-the- While this seems simple, it has required eral years, private “citizen scientists” including cruisers have reported their sargassum findings to the Gulf Coast Research Laboratory’s (GCRL) sargassum research group headed by Jim Franks of the University of Southern Mississippi. gassum in the tropical North Atlantic, as well as within the Caribbean region. These data have also been used to determine the source of the massive blooms. GCRL research indicates a sargassum source region of equatorial origin, rather than connection to the Sargasso Sea. The GCRL research conducted by Franks and oceanographer colleague Dr. Don Johnson is ongoing. tion was being developed by Dr. Chuanmin Hu’s group at the University of South Florida. We are happy to announce there is now an internet site with satellite imagery views of sargassum, ing through the islands need to be prepared to deal ing through the islands plus possible loss of power or with gear complications the safety implications of this, steering, and plan for at night. especially when underway coast of Barbados in 2015, canoccurred on the windward turtles from reaching the water. prevent hatchling sea mats of seaweed will be the location of these floating islanders and new reality for those in the Caribbean — not go away, sailors alike. This sargassum issue will is something and as one observer says, “This problem us. All of us which will ultimate adversely affect all of in this mat- should be working together to be proactive ter, rather than merely reactive or inactive.” tracking to in Tobago, are already looking at satellite (see www. help cope with sargassum inundations ipsnews.net/2017/07/tobago-gears-fight-sargassum- invasion for details). on satel- ties have been developing technologies based weed masses. lite imagery to identify the location of (See (https://eos.org/features/sargassum-watch- warns-of-incoming-seaweed). of where vol- ground, or in this case sea, knowledge comparison to umes of weed occur. This then allowed For sev- satellite data to develop suitable applications. warning of where or when this seaweed will arrive or impact an area. While still in the development stages, this is a huge step forward for projecting where the weed will be and could allow countries in the impact areas time to prepare. Basically, there is an online Sargassum Watch System (SaWS) at http://optics. marine.usf.edu/projects/saws.html

GCRF-USM.EDU by Joan Conover Tracking Sargassum Sargassum Tracking Seaweed via Satellite Seaweed

and acidity in seawater, a 2 Sargassum also has impacts on fishing gear and In cases where sargassum accumulates and decom- A first-hand report last month A first-hand report last month The actual sargassum route It will be during this upcom-

Starting primarily in 2011, massive quantities of Starting primarily — And How Boaters Can Help How Boaters — And By sending reports of sightings, boaters can help By sending reports of sightings, boaters sargassum verify satellite imagery showing rafts of drifting through the Caribbean motors; for example, engine cooling-water intakes get clogged and rudders get jammed. Some fishers and other boaters are coming up with devices to free rudders of weed and to deflect sargassum from propellers, and are using strainers across water intakes to prevent blockage and engine overheating. Those navigat- poses in large quantities, the smell of rotten eggs can occur. This is the odor of hydrogen sulfide gas, which is given off as part of natural decomposition. The US Occupational Safety and Health Administration notes that when the smell is described as “more offensive” (three to five parts per million), prolonged exposure might cause effects such as nausea, tearing of the eyes, headaches and loss of sleep. Asthma sufferers may experience airway problems. Full details are at www.osha.gov/SLTC/hydrogensulfide/hazards.html. from the southern Caribbean from the southern Caribbean mentions, “The smell at the moment is near intoler- able; the build-up has increased massively in the last week or so, and now there is too much aggre- gated for the tide to remove it. Furthermore, there is so much ashore already that the new influx can only sit on and in the water. The wet sargassum rots on the shore, and sea life dies on the mass floating at the shoreline.” and cycle are not well known, but amounts do seem to be increasing with each season’s cycle; the- ories for this include increasing heat and/or additional nutrients introduced into the Atlantic that create or enhance massive blooms of this foliage. Recent research also suggests that Atlantic algae responds positively to increased C0 major change in the former theo- ry of slower growth. ing season of 2017-18 when ing season of 2017-18 when Caribbean governments and private citizens — including local boaters and visiting cruisers — will again need to develop procedures to address the problems that have been experienced in past “Sargasso Seasons”. lessened since the large influx of October 2015, however this pro- cess is cyclical and the coming season is projected to see a significant increase of this ocean- carried weed. pelagic (floating) sargassum seaweed, also known as pelagic (floating) sargassum the Caribbean, impact- sargasso, floated throughout fisheries, shorelines, water- ing marine resources, Similar events have occurred ways, and tourism. amount of observable weed has since that time. The Early Warning of ‘Invasions’: Warning Early SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Minister ofTourism, SandraHowardTaylor; the boat life atseaandundersail.The Colombiannavalpatrol participating intherallygave crewsabetterideaof Naval Academy.LieutenantDiego Salgedonotedthat by officers,aswellcadetsfrom theAlmirantePadilla associated withtheColombian Navyandwerecrewed Club dePesca.Threeoftheparticipating sailboatswere National Navy,withthecollaboration ofCartagena’s the NationalTourismFoundation (Fontur)andthe Colombia’s MinistryofCommerce,Industry&Tourism, variety ofsailingdestinationsColombiaoffers. the idyllicAlbuquerqueCaysdemonstratingwide contrast betweenthebustlingharborofCartagenaand 1,054-nautical-mile routevisitedsixports,withthe returned totheirmarinaswithoutmishaps.The plete therallyowingtominorbreakdowns,but Colombian andinternationalsailboatsdidnotcom- returned toCartagenaonJuly6th.Fiveofthefleet Toro andtheSanBlasIslandsinPanama,finally the AlbuquerqueCays;sailedonwardtoBocasdel the islandsofProvidenciaandSantaCatalina;visited began inhistoricCartagenaonJune17th,sailedto through Colombia’swatersandneighboringPanama privateer SirHenryMorgan,thiscruiseincompany ticipating yachts. rable momentaftertheothertocrewsof18par- annual SovereignColombiaRallyprovidedonememo- iting theremoteAlbuquerqueCays—second honorary citizenshipontheislandofProvidencia,vis- one oftheCaribbean’slargestcoralreefs,receiving Colombian Yacht Rally At theopening ceremonyatClubdePesca, Deputy The RallyColombiaSoberana2017wasorganizedby Retracing routesoncesailedbythe17thcentury Being presentedwithColombianflags,snorkelingon ARC SanAndrés Second Annual accompaniedthe fleet. RALLY COLOMBIASOBERANA2017 forces forabeachclean-upatPlayaAlbuquerque Visitingsailorsandmilitarybasepersonneljoined DivingatIslaProvidencia Rallyentry Carlos delCastillowelcomedparticipantstotherally Sandra HowardTaylor,andNauticalTourismAdvisor RearAdmiralGabrielPerez,Vice-MinisterofTourism Clockwise fromleft: to thecaptainofeachsailboat. Fontur, CarlosdelCastillo,presentedaColombianflag Gabriel Perez;andtheNauticalTourismAdvisorof Caribbean NavalForceCommander,RearAdmiral Bernardo Bent, recognizingthissecondedition ofRally Isla Providencia inasymbolicactoffered by Mayor sailing catboats.* dances, inadditiontoraces ofthetraditionallocal ades, afloatparade,musical concerts andtraditional lore festival,whichincludeda queenshow,masquer- flora andfauna.Theyalsojoined intheisland’sfolk- McBean Lagoon,togetaglimpse oftheprotected Cayo Cangrejointheisland’s ParqueNacional activities includingdiving,snorkeling andvisiting June 20th,wherethesailorsenjoyedavarietyof fleet arrivedatProvidenciaandSantaCatalinaon The rallysailors weredeclaredhonorarycitizens of After a390-milepassagefromCartagena,therally Shakira

, anchoredattheAlbuquerqueCays CARLOS DEL CASTILLO (ALL) CASTILLO DEL CARLOS international participation.” to welcomealargergroupofsailorsandevenmore oping the2018editionofrally,andwearelooking participating inabigbeachcleanup. showed theirrespectforthemarineenvironmentby small militaryoutpostthere.Therallysailorsalso national anthem,togetherwiththepersonnelof hoisting theColombiannationalflagandsinging the There allthecrewsofrallyboatsandcrew reefs thatmarkthewesternmostpointofColombia. Albuquerque Cays,twosmallislandssurroundedby from ProvidenciaonJune23rdboundforthe and herteamfromFonturembarkedwiththerally that encouragesnauticaltourismandsports. Colombia Soberanafortheimportanceofanactivity january15compass_online.pdf www.caribbeancompass.com/online/ pass_online.pdf and“OldProvidence”onpage 33at www.caribbeancompass.com/online/august14com- Catalina see“Colombia’sTrio of Gems”onpage16at manager JoanMacmasterabout theevent. stop byClubdePescainCartagena, chatwithclub Ramirez [email protected]. Ifyou [email protected], orCoast GuardCFArmando Soberana? ContactrallymanagerCarlosdelCastilloat ing thecountry’ssailingdestinations. accessible, inclusiveandmoderntourismbypromot- de Pesca—isanexampleofencouragingsustainable, the NationalNavyandclubssuchasCartagena’sClub Ministry ofCommerce,IndustryandTourism;Fontur; This rally—thankstothecombinedeffortsof strides butissetforconsiderablefuturedevelopment. wide andnauticaltourismhasnotonlymadegreat of civilwar,thedoorstotourismhavebeenopened in PanamaandthereturntoCartagenawentsmoothly. remained thereuntilJune26th,andtherally’sportcalls embodiment of“Colombianmagicalrealism”.Thefleet green coconutpalmsshimmeringinthewind—an pleasant murmurofthewavesandcharacteristic texture ofitssands,thefreshnessbreezes, at thevaryingcolorsofitswaters,whitenessand was asourceofdelightforallthesailors,whomarveled The DeputyMinister,whogrewuponProvidencia, * FormoreinformationonProvidencia andSanta Interested injoiningnextyear’sRallyColombia Carlos delCastillotells With thearrivalofpeaceinColombiaafter50years The beautyoftheislandlandscapeinAlbuquerque ARC SanAndrés carriedoutthesymbolicactof Compass , “Wewillbedevel- SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

PAULETTE LEE (ALL) Zapetti/ copped the overall victory, e was second overall and c i ill t a

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n e i Visit www.yoles-rondes.com for more information. Although L’Appaloosa Robert; Robert to La Trinité; La Trinité to St. Pierre; and St. Pierre to Fort de France. Robert; Robert to La Trinité; La Trinité to is the longest and most tactical — going The sixth leg, from La Trinité to St. Pierre, heavy-air gybe, and contending with over the top of the island, requiring a sometimes is often decisive in the overall results. possible williwaws from Mont Pelée — and France, the last leg’s third-place winner, France, the last leg’s third-place winner, massed on the beach offered a very warm as it had done in 2014. A jubilant crowd welcome. The 2013 overall winner, This round-the-island race for indigenous sailing boats This round-the-island race for indigenous is Martinique’s largest annual sporting event u W Wins 33rd 33rd Wins q i e n g i for canoe) comes jol n t — 35-foot, open, sprit- r a dugout canoes used for fishing. a r yoles rondes gommier O / M

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Round Martinique Race Yole Martinique RRound RRosette/Orange The 33rd Annual Tour, organized by the Fédération des Yoles Rondes, was held The 33rd Annual Tour, organized by the Fédération des Yoles Rondes, was held Carrying enormous sails, being steered with an oar rather than a rudder, and Carrying enormous sails, being steered The Tour de la Martinique des Yoles Rondes is a weeklong, multi-legged race The Tour de la Martinique des Yoles July 30th through August 6th. After a round-the-buoys warm-up in Fort de France July 30th through August 6th. After a round-the-buoys warm-up in Fort de France — a Bay on the 30th, the fleet raced seven legs around the island, counter-clockwise total course of more than a hundred miles (180 kilometres). The legs were as follows: to Fort de France to Anses d’Arlet; Anses d’Arlet to Marin; Marin to Vauclin; Vauclin rigged racing craft developed from the older rigged racing craft developed from the older employing crewmembers hiked out on poles for balance, the yoles rondes are a chal- employing crewmembers hiked out on poles can consist of a dozen or more; all are lenge to sail and thrilling to watch. Crews sport” of Martinique, and the round- athletes. Yole racing is considered the “national sporting event. The boats are coastal- the-island race is the island’s largest annual the competition and drawing passionate community-based, giving extra spice to sponsorship is intense. spectator interest. Municipal and commercial The term yoles rondes or “round yawls” (from the Norwegian The term yoles rondes or “round yawls” While traditional in form, technological from their round — no keel — bottom. being made. improvements to the boats are constantly around the island of Martinique in traditional around the island of Martinique in traditional SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16

ANNA LANDRY (2) place, AndySmelt’sSpencer44, Slipway Restaurant. sponsored byBudgetMarine,andtheprizegivingwasheldat that startedoffHillsboroughandfinishedinTyrrelBay.Itwas Hillsborough andwatchthefamouslocalboatsrace!(Seepage17.) Gallery CaféandTheOldRumShop. Tyrrel Bay.RaceresultsandactivitieswereatTwilightRestaurant,the sored byIslandWaterWorld.StartingoffHillsborough,itfinishedin Turtle Pizzeria. race resultswerepostedandfestivitieshostedthateveningatLazy sored byDoyleOffshoreSails,startedandfinishedatTyrrelBay.The point, schoonerscanbereallyfast—andbeautiful. Sciarelli-designed schooner,showedtheworldthatwhiletheywillnot as muchsailaWindwardsloop, that suitedtheHughes38 doubt wesawmorethan16knotsoverthelongweekend,conditions Beneteau, the42.7 38s5, entries wasanewcomer, Guiding Light his firstvisittoourregatta.RoyBoughtoncamewith1935cutter, yacht!”) intheformofJuddTinius’s65-foot Carriacou, hadachallengerintheawesomestakes(as“Lookatthat and fairwinds. that ranfromthe4ththrough7th—encounteringbenign,rain-freeracedays there wasaforecastformoreofthesame. tors inthefollowingday’sDouble-HandedRoundCarriacouRace,particularlyas start ofCarriacouRegatta2017—dampenedtheenthusiasmpotentialcompeti- World, WestIndiesBeer,theSlipwayRestaurant,GrenadaMarine, Doyle OffshoreSails,MountGayRum,BudgetMarine,IslandWater featuring short,interestingcourses.Weweresupportedthisyearby an annualoff-seasonplaytimeforcruisersandlocallybasedyachts, third, Tumultuous Uproar The overallresultsthen.InFunClass, The lastrace,ontheMonday,wasanotherFullyCrewedRace Sunday wastheyachts’LayDay—agreatchancetogo On theSaturday,RaceTwowasaFullyCrewedYachtRace,spon- Yacht RaceOne,theTwo-HandedRoundCarriacouRace,spon- Mike BingleyreturnedtoCarriacouRegattawithhisBeneteauFirst For thefirsttime,SuzyStanhope’s56-foot But bracedforweatherthatnevercame,15yachtsenteredtheyachtraceseries The delugethatgreetedCarriacouonThursday,August3rd—thedaybefore One ofthefewCaribbeansummerraceseries,CarriacouRegattais Off-Season Playtime Bloody Mary Tulaichaen II Johnsons Hardware , tojoinusonceagain.AndroundofftheClassic secondand wonfirstprize.InCSAclass, , stillingoodform,aswastheotherpopular Rodney Bay, St.Lucia Tumultuous Uproar Free Spirit Bloody Mary for Yachts Tulaichaen II , aLuders27from1955. Yellow Bird, Samadhi by JerryStewart , lookingnewlypainted.With sailedbyRussWhitfield.I Galatea wasfirst. Spirited Lady , FrankPearce’s54-foot Spirited Lady placed second,and

, builtin1899,on Free Spirit z CARRIACOU REGATTAFESTIVAL2017 FOR YOUR MARINE SUPPLIESANDSOMUCHMORE Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope tookthird , aregularcompetitorat

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the benignconditions; Galatea Clockwise fromtopleft: from JamesBenoitinGrenada.GusPierredrovethemarkboat. Tim Sudellsuppliedaraceofficerandcommitteeboat,withlongdistanceguidance Lazy TurtlePizzeria,LambieQueen,andNorth&SouthTrading.Atthe11thhour, Thank youeveryoneforhelpingtomakethisplaytimeregattawork! z [email protected] goes forthehighsideatstartofRaceTwo;smallestentryenjoys Antifouling Paint Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners Bloody Mary sneaksupon Galatea Marine Plywood Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2017

Carriacou Regatta has run DAVON BAKER (ALL) since 1965, making it the THE longest-running annual sailing Local Boats: event in the Caribbean. The regatta was started in 1965 by Jamaican yachtsman J. Linton Rigg, who, upon arriving in Carriacou in the late 1950s, found that boatbuilding there had all but ceased. While in THE HEART the Bahamas, Rigg had founded the Out Island Regatta with similar aims — encouraging the building and development of the small cargo and fishing boats he saw as endangered species. He reasoned that if FROM boats were built to race, they would find useful work the rest of the year. In the early days the event was for workboats only, THE START but over the years the scope of the regatta was enlarged with the addition of a series of yacht races (see page 16). Most recently, races for Lasers and Optimists have been included. The yacht and dinghy races are well-run and great fun, but it is still the local boat races — especially the decked sloop races — that make Carriacou Regatta unique. This is a favorite regatta for all as it offers a relaxed, friendly sailing festival experience to be enjoyed by not only the participants but also those on land. This year’s edition took place from August 4th through 7th. Perhaps the most spectacular class, next to those in the Decked Sloops division, is the Long Open Boats — 28 feet of pure sailing muscle. Interestingly, this year that class featured five boats from the neighboring island of Bequia — and none from Carriacou. But Carriacou makes up for any defi- ciencies in other classes by her perennial decked- sloop dominance.

A separate round-the island race for the decked Above: Descended from inter-island cargo vessels, the Carriacou sloops are swift and sea-kindly SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 sloops was won by Free in St. Barth, with Mageta O II Below: Bequia’s Eclipse, one of the Long Open Boats that evolved from whaling and seine-fishing boats second and Zemi third. A stand-alone open boat race was won by Black Berry, with Slip Away second and Eclipse third. The Laser Class winners were an exact repeat of last year’s results.

CARRIACOU REGATTA 2017 WINNERS Optimists 1) Orion Ollivierre, Bequia 2) Drew Mitchell, Bequia 3) Eltino Bynoe, Bequia Lasers 1) Rufus Vesprey, Carriacou 2) Ray-J Joseph, Carriacou 3) Akim Compton, Carriacou Small Open Boats A Below and left: Laser and Optimist racers spearhead the new generation of sailors in the Grenadines 1) Y Knot, Reon Ollivierre, Bequia 2) Ark Royal, Oreko Joseph, Bequia 3) Lightning, Alexander Adams, Mayreau Small Open Boats B 1) Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau 2) D Shark, Hudson Williams, Canouan 3) God Angel, Victor Hazell Small Open Boats D 1) More Worries, Jojo Adams, Bequia 2) Camille, Kimani James, Bequia 3) Galaxy, Elmore Snagg, Canouan Stern Boats B 1) Savvy Baby, Shahim Island, Petite Martinique 2) Press Play, Javal Charles, Petite Martinique 3) Trouble, Alan Noel, Petite Martinique Woburn Class 1) Unity, (skipper unknown), Grenada 2) Progress, Ceran, Grenada 3) Champion Boys, Skylo Smith, Grenada Long Open Boats A 1) Slip Away, Arnold Hazell, Bequia 2) Black Berry, Orson Ollivierre, Bequia 3) Bequia Pride, Kimani James, Bequia Small Decked Sloops 1) Maris-Stella, Michael Bethel, Carriacou 2) New Moon, Dave Goldhill, Carriacou 3) Small Pin, Paul Martineau, Carriacou Large Decked Sloops 1) Glacier, Calvin Patrice, Carriacou 2) American Eagle, Winsley McLawrence, Carriacou 3) Free in St. Barth, Carl Enoe, Carriacou

Thanks to Sheena Bristol, Secretary of the Carriacou Regatta Committee, for information in this report. Apologies for any missing details in the winners’ list. Contact [email protected] for more information. SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 rigged together. often thannotbambooandjury- wood. Themastandsparsaremore traditionally madefromlocalhard- huge partyinprogress.Eachboatis finish line,wherethereisalwaysa male crewsscrambletocrossthe race aboutthebayasmostly ful event.Thebrightlypaintedhulls February, isanexcitingandcolour- held attheendofJanuary/early some seriousracing.Theregatta, Petite Martiniquegettogetherfor its sisterislandsofCarriacouand faring villagesaroundGrenadaand Grand AnseBeach.Boatsfromsea- Festival, anannualeventheldon boat seasonistheGrenadaSailing boats. Theclimaxofthelocalwork- very competitiveGrenadianwork- of thefewwomenwhocrewon as shecould. loved beingoutthereracingasfast quick learner,verycompetitiveand sail Mosquitodinghies.Shewasa Clarkes CourtBayandlearnedto run outofthevillageWoburnin into thejuniorsailingprogramme out onthewater,shefoundherway that too.At11yearsold,keentoget and decidedshewasgoingtodo pretty sailboatsaboutinthebay, Grenada, watchingothersrace on thejettyinLowerWoburn, is RosieBurr. children. Thismonth’sguestwriter in youthdevelopmentforCaribbean of articlescelebratingsailing’srole Twenty yearsonandKeraisone As ayounggirl,KeraMessiahsat Youth2Adult —Y2Aisaseries —Continued onnextpage Woburn Women Y2A: YOUTHTOADULT Boats Work by RosieBurr of Grenadian sailorSidneyCollins-Nimrod,center,racingontheworkboat ISIS SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 crew at the Grenada Sailing Festival El Tigre www.facebook.com/Grenada-Sailing-Festivalwww.facebook.com/Grenada-

Sarah Baker, event director for Grenada Sailing Festival Westerhall White Jack Sarah Baker, event director for Grenada out on the water and sailing some Meanwhile both girls look forward to getting Visit Kira Messiah and the rest of the Workboat Regatta says, “It is great to have young Grenadian women racing as part Workboat Regatta says, “It is great to have been men only. Both Kera and Sidney of a workboat crew, which has traditionally and we look forward to more girls fol- have come through the junior sailing program lowing their example in the future.” she will get to take part in Grenada Sailing more; and Kera hopes that in the future Week, the island’s yacht regatta. racing in Grenada. Sailing-Festival for more information on workboat are important not only to nurture and encourage a love of sailing on an island that that on an island of sailing a love and encourage nurture only to not are important friendly teamwork, sense of to instill a but also industry, yachting on the depends its young among the sea respect for and responsibility leadership, competition, people today. 11 12 13 0443 14 0543 15 0639 16 0734 17 0837 18 0917 19 1005 20 1052 21 1140 22 1223 23 1309 24 1355 25 1442 26 1529 27 1617 28 1704 29 1752 30 1840 31 1927 2015 2103 , the boat she cur- El Tigre (full moon) 21 22 23 1258 24 1334 25 1430 26 1515 27 1602 28 1648 29 1736 30 1824 1912 October 2017 2000 1 2 3 4 2049 5 2137 6 2226 7 2316 8 0000 9 0005 10 0057 0151 0247 0344 at this year’s regatta and hopes she will be racing at this year’s regatta ISIS OF THE MOON (full moon) SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2017 MERIDIAN PASSAGE Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will September 2017 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 2032 5 2121 6 2210 2258 2347 0000 7 8 9 10 0035 11 0124 12 0214 0305 13 0358 14 0453 15 0550 16 0648 17 0746 18 0837 19 0939 20 1032 1123 1211 Continued from previous page previous page from Continued The program has five Mosquito dinghies built locally in the town of Gouyave, which The program has five Mosquito dinghies The aim of the Woburn Wind Warriors, established in 2015, is to bring The aim of the Woburn Wind Warriors, Similarly, 16-year-old Sidney Collins-Nimrod is another keen young Sidney Collins-Nimrod is another Similarly, 16-year-old Perhaps Kera’s passion is unique. She says there were several other girls is unique. She says there were several Perhaps Kera’s passion Mostly without any deck hardware such as winches, these boats require skill and require skill boats these such as winches, hardware any deck without Mostly charts. Fair tides! running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. are similar to but more robust than the popular Optimist, and one Laser for the older are similar to but more robust than the popular between eight and 16 regularly attend kids. Approximately 12 junior sailors aged older ones sail on the workboats at the each Saturday morning. A number of the as the Fisherman’s Birthday race. Recently Sailing Festival and at local regattas such take part in the dinghy regatta held at the a group even traveled up to St. Lucia to not many girls sail with the Woburn Wind St. Lucia Yacht Club in Rodney Bay. Sadly that this sailing program and others like it Warriors at the moment. It’s easy to see junior sail training back to Woburn, much like the program Kera was part junior sail training back to Woburn, much Island Dreams yacht services, who of over a decade ago. Anita Sutton of is open to the residents of Woburn, helps run the sailing, says, “The program is entirely funded by industry contributions a village rich with sailing tradition, and who have raised money through and by the efforts of the young sailors themselves, very community-based and Sidney’s family two successful car-washing events. It is lunch and drinks mid-session. Sidney’s helps support the program by providing train the young sailors. Currently Kevin brother, Shakeem, has previously helped sailing coach, is instructing the team.” Banfield, who is Grenada’s senior junior again next year. Sidney was first introduced to sailing as a young teenager was first introduced to sailing as a again next year. Sidney Woburn. They the famous Nimrod’s rum shop in Lower by her father, Sep, of Island. Sidney Cat around Clarkes Court Bay and Hog sailed on his Hobie sailing program, the Woburn Wind Warriors junior then got involved with of Petit Calivigny Marina in Benji sailing Mosquito and Laser dinghies out being out on the water. While there Bay. She says she has always enjoyed turn up, the group is primarily are a couple of other girls who occasionally made up of boys. Grenadian female sailor who raced her first workboat regatta last January. who raced her first workboat regatta Grenadian female sailor the jib on the enjoyed sailing and helping handle Sidney said she really Woburn workboat rently races on, to let her sail with his team — always showing up ready and her sail with his team — always showing rently races on, to let and would help if small jobs or repairs were needed eager. She would assist demonstrating just how keen she was. pretty the boat up — who sailed with her on the junior boats but none of them followed it through. on the junior boats but none of them followed who sailed with her mind set on the program 11 years ago she had her When she left the junior Raymond, the owner of workboats. She pestered a strong crew to handle them. But Kera believes that given the chance an all-female all-female an the chance that given Kera believes But handle them. crew to a strong She says she to help work the jib. role onboard is sail these boats. Kera’s crew could noth- over and enjoys while the boat heels of water on her back loves the feel is exhilarating. finish line — the excitement getting over the ing more than said out on the water she few young women why there were so When asked real- get older and don’t lose interest as they imagine that girls she can only their are worrying about out on. Too many they are missing ize the adventure worry her. The only But this doesn’t concern their hair, she says. looks and the boat. line and not swamping crossing the finish she has is — SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 evident in the mari- —Continued on next page cambios The marina is still in its infancy, but ready The marina is still in at It is possible to cruise and anchor Francisco Hubrit has been the dockmaster The marina now houses the Cardenas (53 45) 66 4115, after dialing the US exit two sections of slips is the dockmaster’s two sections of slips an airport control office, which resembles is very safe and secure. tower. This marina officials and specifically A note: Except for is wise never to permit approved workers, it your vessel. This is a a local person to board strict Cuban policy. up to 40 feet pay 25 for customers. Yachts to 22.50 if staying a CUC a day, reduced are 55 CUC per vessel month. Entry rates (All prices are in and 15 CUC per person. CUC. There were no CUC: US$1 equals .87 banks or legal bring cash. ATMs na or the hotels. Always will not accept US credit and debit cards.) Cayo Blanco after getting a special permit. sea- Diesel is available, but due to the slow son you may have to wake the attendant. gal- As usual in Cuba, it is best to stuff the ley before you visit. The village of Varadero had some groceries available, but not much of a selection. since the project began. He takes personal pride working with every boater. Francisco pointed out that this marina is the second largest in the Caribbean — only Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic has more slips. is He also mentioned that fishing in the area excellent. They initiated the first marlin five tournament here last year with only boats; a 200-pound blue took the prize.

Left: At Meliá Marina, the dockmaster’s office Left: At Meliá Marina, the dockmaster’s office resembles an airport control tower Below: Two swimming pools are available for anyone in the marina to enjoy The size of the Meliá Marina is shocking — 1,100 yacht slips. Everything is new, yacht slips. Everything shocking — 1,100 the Meliá Marina is The size of Shoreside Sights The marina provides double-decker buses that cost 5 CUC to ride all day — save your To make reservations at the Meliá-Graviota Marina, connect by e-mail at reserva@ and a port of entry, with Customs and Immigration. This marina is completely full- is completely marina This and Immigration. Customs with port of entry, and a bottom and electricians, mechanics, ice, fuel, water, to have advertised service, no work but I saw are advertised, All services travel lift. 100-ton with a cleaning yacht we were yachts. The power evidently foreign, on any of the few, being done service man. had a private hired to deliver Marina Meliá- a quaint flavor, Hemingway has old. Where Marina only two years and the new wall is completed The northern sea is the future. Gaviota Varadero construc- are still under Customs and Immigration will eventually house offices that it is the expected megayachts; dock space for seawall will also provide tion. This divides the the concrete spit that vessels. Along accommodate 200-foot planned to code 011. taxiticket so you can get back on. These make a circuit to the village of Varadero. A one way is 20 CUC. The town is quaint and pretty with friendly people and a bank. Catamaran fleet for daysailing and weeklong charters. There also is a massive sport- cats. fishing fleet. We saw boatloads of international tourists taking advantage of the we Highrise apartments, shops, and restaurants surround the marina. Every night great were entertained by talented dance troupes and excellent musical groups with vocalists. Two pools are provided for anyone in the marina to enjoy. marinagav.co.cu. The phone contact is

DESTINATIONS by Ralph Trout of choice. Then came the money exchange:

cerveza igh school guidance counselors never mention great occupations such as great occupations mention never counselors guidance igh school runs, of long sea share made my crew. I’ve captain or delivery yacht But have faded. those days but storm season, during to hide boats mostly him if I’d accompany recently asked of coincidences, a captain by a series

VARADERO, CUBA VARADERO, IN AND OUT OF OUT OF IN AND Meliá Marina The official entry point is Meliá Marina. It is the mega five-star marina of the area Meliá Marina, operated by the Gaviota group, rests at the very tip of the long pen- What is termed “Varadero” is nothing like anything I’d previ- Ernesto, the Yellow Taxi-man, had a placard with the captain’s Flying In At the Miami airport it took only minutes and a Ben Franklin to On the southern shore of Matanzas Bay, just west of Varadero, is

Google explained that Varadero is a long peninsula east of Havana, sticking out east of Havana, is a long peninsula that Varadero Google explained H insula at Hicacos Point, as the crowning achievement of Cuba’s modern marine insula at Hicacos Point, as the crowning achievement of Cuba’s modern marine tourism. Chapelin Marina, a smaller docking facility, lies in the eastern side man- be groves, but can be seen from the road and appears to be packed. This area could a good place to hide if threatened by bad weather. Havana’s fun, with raucous crowds moving to street music. In Varadero everything Havana’s fun, with raucous crowds moving to street music. In Varadero everything lead- is new — opulent, but tasteful, almost quiet and reserved. The main highway are ing through the thin spit of land is Avenue of the Americas. Vintage US cars evident, as are horse-drawn carriages, and the typical Cuban coco taxis, but Yellow Cabs seem to rule. ously seen in Cuba. It is a long, narrow peninsula that lies between ously seen in Cuba. It is a long, narrow peninsula that lies between Matanzas Bay and Cardenas Bay. Many tall, modern hotels sit between a dozen miles of beautiful white sand beaches on the west and lush mangroves on the east. These monumental hotels/ resorts are reminiscent of Isla Margarita in Venezuela before the Old Chavez crash. This is Cuba’s jewel of modern tourism. It is the opposite of a beer for two pesos, not CUCs. Two pesos equal about eight cents, while a CUC is a bit more than a dollar. I already liked this place even before I had the second beer. name and off we went. Immediately it was beer o’clock. A cold Cristal is Cuba’s get our two visas. No one seemed to care about the purpose of our visit. The American Airlines flight wasn’t crowded, as not many tourists were going to Cuba during the summer. On arrival in Cuba, the Santa Marta airport was very efficient. As we disem- barked we were scanned by a doctor and asked if we had any diseases. (I wonder why Immigration agencies in other countries aren’t concerned about the health of those entering.) No one seemed to want the letter we’d written explaining that we were delivering a US-flagged yacht to the US. Once the luggage belt started moving the drug-sniffer dog appeared. We had no problems. the final destination of the Hershey train that runs from Havana, but we didn’t need it as transport because we wouldn’t be flying into Havana. Varadero has its own airport, Santa Marta, very close by, and everything was prearranged by the yacht’s owner. The big questions remained: since we didn’t have return tickets, would we be given visas at the airport in Florida; how much hassle would it be flying into Cuba with only a one-way ticket; and what would happen on the return without the required Coast Guard yacht permit? This was four days before President Trump’s first Cuba proc- lamation. That was our time frame: three days to get the yacht and go before the curtain might fall… again. than Hemingway to mainland Florida. to mainland than Hemingway into the Straits of Florida. On some maps it is named Hicacos, and that is also the Hicacos, and that some maps it is named of Florida. On into the Straits miles nearer it was about 20 The GPS determined northernmost point. name of its to deliver a power yacht from Varadero, Cuba to Florida. Not long before, I’d sailed Florida. Not long before, Varadero, Cuba to a power yacht from to deliver and didn’t harbor to Havana, the closest yacht to Marina Hemingway, from Florida island. to return to the attractive jump at the chance hesitate to SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 with tastyfood. — very pay about10CUCforeverything. and animals,alongwithgettingasenseoftheisland’sindigenoushistory.Expectto places inCubatohike(withplentyofdrinkingwater)andviewthelocalflowers concrete edifices,thisareahasbeenprotectedsince1974.Itisoneofthebest Ambrosia CavesarewithinVarahicacosEcologicalPreserve.Surroundedbymodern a cavewherehumanremainsestimatedtobe2,500yearsoldwerefound.The include Patriarca,anenormous500-year-oldcactus,andtheCuevadeMusulmanes, ings. Aflashlightisprovided,andbewarned—watchoutforthebats.Highlights caves, discoveredin1961,arespectacular,with47prehistoricred-and-blackdraw- golf course,saidtobethebestinCuba. the bestofeverything,frompreciouswoodworktoahugepipeorgan.Italsohas 1920s. ReminiscentofClubHavanainthecapital,it’snowachichotel.Xanaduhas Sights toseeincludetheseasideDuPontmansion,Xanadu,builtinmid- There areplentyofdealsonleathergoodsandsomereasonablypricedrestaurants Leaving CubafromMeliáMarinabyboatwaseasy.Youareexpectedtoembark Boating Out A fascinatingarchaeologicalsiteisCuevasAmbrosia,notfarfromthemarina.The Continued frompreviouspage shortly aftercompletingthepaperwork.AlwaysprotectyourCubanvisa,other- reported totaketenfeetofdraft,yetoursonarreaditasshallowfive. is verywellmarked,butwatchyourdepthsounder.Payattentiontothetides.It officers waitednearbyuntilwecastoffthedocklines.ThechanneltoMeliáMarina wise youmustpurchaseanotherjusttogetoutofthecountry.TheImmigration www.caribbeancompass.com/backissues.html the previousarticles,findtheminouronlineBackIssuesArchiveat our Americanflag.Somebody’salwayswatching. details andournames.Therewasnoproblem,exceptthatwehadforgottentoraise circled usseveraltimes.Theywereincommunication,wantingourregistration version ofCubanpolicy.EvenbeforewewereinUSwaters,ourCoastGuardplanes Left: Amuralshowsthelayoutat1,100-slipMeliáMarina Above: Newmarina,oldcars… • August2017issue—FindingHappinessinHavana • July2017issue—FunonaBudgetNearMarinaHemingway • May2017issue—Cuba,AtLast.PartTwo:BeingThere • April2017issue—Cuba,AtLast.PartOne:GettingThere This isthelastinaseriesofarticlesaboutCubabyRalphTrout.Ifyou’vemissed The returntoFloridacoincidedwithPresidentTrump’sannouncementofhisnew

SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

—Continued on next page , is available at Amazon.com I carry out every time I drop anchor. That is, I pull on snorkelling gear and dive down to see how well it’s holding. This both saves me any doubts about the hold… and gives me a perfect alibi to have a dip every time I come to a new place. I would recommend anyone who comes to sail the Caribbean to join me in this tradition, no matter the bottom or the weather (both can vary greatly over just a short bit!) and no matter what location you are anchored at. It saves you from both worry and from potentially dangerous situations. And you did come here to enjoy the water, after all! Mermaid of Carriacou Sweet Sensation Little Fish Big Pond traditional island sloop is in Fruit Bight Harbour, is in Fruit Bight Harbour, aboard the aboard the Prout 38 catamaran Prout 38 catamaran aboard the NEVER TOO MANY ANCHORS! NEVER TOO would just wonder why anyone since 1969 and I the Caribbean I’ve been sailing my 44-foot Right now [early August] — John Smith John’s collection of non-fiction essays, — Kevin and Christine Gooch — Kevin and TAKE A DIP, DIVE THE ANCHOR a habit — a ritual, one might say — thatWhen I cruise in these lovely waters, I have — Lena Padukova sails tropical and polar waters alike. She Lena is a professional adventurer who USE SPACIAL AWARENESS Tenable bays for anchoring are filling up or being put off limits by marine parks One aspect of this — only one aspect of it — is anchoring interval. Yachts wanting There is a standard anchoring practice in vogue in which a crewmember drops At the outer fringe of the anchorage The “outer reaches” in the bay that Out here the water is deeper and we are hanging to a longer rode. Also, the wind the So if you value elbowroom over the downsides of being out here, take a look at At a guess, my little yacht is about half the size of yours, which makes it look farther ask this old curmudgeon for cruising advice! I am thrilled nevertheless to do my to do my thrilled nevertheless cruising advice! I am curmudgeon for ask this old vessel and is relevant to your cruising lifestyle whether or not my small part, of my time in have spent most past ten years I example, for the lifestyle. For only vessel present for Oftimes, mine has been the nearly deserted anchorages. of the Bocas del Los Roques, Los Aves, the remote corners months at a time in as well as Toro area of Panama, the Bay Islands remote corners of there are no of Honduras where shore lights, roads, no traffic, few no malls and limited internet, are, how- scarce cold beer. There and crystal- ever, lots of silence clear nights for compensation. Carriacou sloop, wooden, engineless Mermaid, right on track to Guanaja, Honduras, Tropical Storm get smacked by Harvey. I’ve got two hooks down, and be that a vessel cruising the Caribbean can a third ready. So my best advice would the crew have too much practice in laying never have too many anchors nor can them down. goes light at night. The last thing you want is to be rudely awakened because your your because awakened is to be rudely want thing you The last light at night. goes light at an anchor show boat. Always to another close or swinging is dragging boat is useful. at dusk automatically that lights a sensor one with night; writes about her adventures on www.adrenalena.se writes about her adventures on www.adrenalena.se have and MPAs. Sigh. And while some sailors are here for peace and quiet, others But come to party and play. To some extent, everyone can still be accommodated. that takes technique, awareness, and empathy. the elbowroom, peace and quiet, privacy or whatever, anchor at the outer fringe of anchorage and beyond, where we give each other 50 metres or more. Those wanting quick access ashore, WiFi, camaraderie, and the presumed security of close neighbors anchor close in. will their anchor ten metres abeam of another yacht then falls back to where they lie. In high-density areas of an anchorage where a 20-metre interval is common, this is an efficient way to use the space available. Farther out, as water depth increases, the anchoring interval needs to increase: six-to- one scope becomes a longer rode. and beyond there are different con- siderations. First are the reasons why those who choose the outer reaches are out there, but there are operational factors as well. I most frequent have moved outward over the years. I now anchor twice as far from shore as I used to. I’m where the tugs and barges used to moor — they have moved farther out to well accommodate us yachts. And others who want their elbowroom are anchored outside of me. extra has a long fetch from shore, there’s more wind and chop, so we may be on in scope as well. Furthermore, we are now out in eddies of current, which, especially light winds, can move us every which way. Finally, out here, the bottom is mostly but grass. One should find a patch of sand to anchor in — not just to save the grass, so the anchor will hold. And I should also mention that out here the swell is worse… usually, not always. in a existing interval and anchor accordingly. Welcome. But anchoring like you do crowd is too close. away. Some people fall for that, so I get more than my share of close neighbors. Often ait is a bareboat: people on vacation. If I don’t see a problem I let it pass. Sometimes I canyacht really is too close and I run them off — polite and calm works best. But be insistent too — the captain of a vessel is responsible for its safety. , his and keep Iolaire . This month it’s on page 19. On another subject, considering seamanship information that is of tremendous value. This information is presented nowhere else except in my four guides, which together cover the entire Eastern Caribbean. Use my guides as pilots (piloting information is timeless), but also make sure you have on board one of the other guides that will give you up-to-date information on shoreside facilities. the total number of yachts in the Eastern Caribbean the crime rate When you leave an island’s lee, you enter the open sea. You must contend not only with sea states there, but also with big currents. Check your degree of drift and compensate. The slow equatorial current flows westward. Tidal current — water entering and exiting the Caribbean Sea from the Atlantic — can be intense. The worst currents, I’ve found, lurk close to the ends of islands. Here, local currents and gusty winds add fierce S/V Panda , his 28-foot engineless yawl. Compass Li’l Iolaire The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South, use your chart plotter to enter or leave Caribbean harbors! Use the www.street-iolaire.com aboard the Morgan 41 Out Island Tortola do not

HONE YOUR ANCHORING SKILLS Perfect your anchoring technique — you’ll need it for those idyllic away-from-it-all When using Imray Iolaire charts, read the back of the chart for tidal, piloting and When using Imray Iolaire charts, read the back of the chart for tidal, piloting and — Don Street, cruising guide author Don has spent well over half a century cruising, racing, chartering, charting and But ELECTRONIC AND EYEBALL NAVIGATION Use electronic navigation and chart plotters for inter-island passages to make sure — Michael Rosner IF COMING FROM SOUTHEASTERN US Read Bruce Van Sant’s book Editor’s note: To help time your channel crossings with favorable tides, see the MeridianEditor’s note: To help time your channel crossings — Susan Chaplin Words of encouragement for beginning Caribbean cruisers: If I can do it on a tiny Words of encouragement for beginning Let me remind cruisers who would venture out into the big inter-island channels:Let me remind cruisers who would venture A CURRENT AFFAIR through the open Caribbean for the past 23 years. I paddle I have cruised in the We received a wealth of information, ranging from the objective and practical to the of information, ranging from the objective We received a wealth Planning your first Caribbean cruise? One of the best things you’ll find is the willing- cruise? One of the best things you’ll Planning your first Caribbean anchorages you’ve been dreaming about. Always avoid anchoring over coral; it takes anchorages you’ve been dreaming about. Always avoid anchoring over coral; it takes years to grow but seconds to destroy. Put out appropriate scope for the conditions (anchor chain is no use in the locker!), and make sure the anchor is securely dug in by going astern and/ or snorkeling over it. Allow enough swinging room; boats will swing in different directions, especially if the wind 46-foot engineless yawl, and on writing about the Eastern Caribbean. The majority of this was done on paper chart and eyeball navigation. Over-reliance on electronic navigation supports paper chart and eyeball navigation. Over-reliance on electronic navigation supports the local salvors. (See an article on this subject at www.caribbeancompass.com/ at online/september14compass_online.pdf, page 27.) The use of chart plotters total Spithead Channel in Antigua, and at Laborie in St. Lucia has caused four losses and at least a score of groundings. against cruisers is not that great. However there are pockets where armed robbery have sometimes occurs, and other anchorages where there are very good thieves who sneaked on board when the crew is asleep, stolen money and gear, and departed into without waking anyone. One deterrent is to install a motion-sensitive light tied the an audio alarm. Before going to bed, activate the system. If anyone approaches boat, the light goes on, the alarm goes off, the potential intruder departs in a hurry. you stay above the rhumb line, all the way from your departure point to your landfall. it on board. It was invaluable to us during our trip south. it on board. It was invaluable to us during Passage of the Moon table in every issue of Passage of the Moon table in every issue of hand-driven paddleboard, you can do it in your yacht. Just be careful. Never over- hand-driven paddleboard, you can do it sea. Most important, have fun! estimate your abilities, or the power of the bursts of energy. You may find an hour or so added to your ETA. bursts of energy. You may find an hour ocean on my 14-foot-long, two-foot-wide fiberglass paddleboard. I use a GPS, carry ocean on my 14-foot-long, two-foot-wide propel me along, no paddle, motor or sail. I food, water and my passport. My arms major cruising routes in the Caribbean. have, in effect, a tiny yacht. I have completed My nemesis has not been wind, waves or My favorite took me from Grenada to Saba. due to current. sharks, but current. I have gone backward subjective and offbeat. Thanks to everyone who so generously shared the wisdom of Thanks to everyone who so generously subjective and offbeat. will find many helpful hope all you first-time Caribbean cruisers their experience. We your experience. hints here to enhance ness of the Caribbean cruising community to give advice! We asked a wide selection cruising community to give advice! We ness of the Caribbean you. cruisers for their top tips — just for of experienced Caribbean CRUISERS CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN FOR FIRST-TIME FIRST-TIME FOR TIP-TOP TIPS TIPS TIP-TOP SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 panionway isasimpleandeffectivedeterrenttowould-beboarders. cockpit toconfrontanunknownnumberofassailants,whomaywellbearmed. that youremainsafelyinsideyoursecuredcabinratherthanrushingoutintothe happening inyourcockpit.Shouldyoueverbeboardedatnight,it’sveryimportant light fromasolarpatioisusuallynotsufficient. retire tobunkinyourunlockedboatwithacompletelydarkenedcockpit.Thefeeble away fromthatlittleboat;hethinksownsthebay.”Andshowthempicture. on topofmeandIgotinsistent,youshouldwarnotheryachtscomingmyway,“Stay — safe atanchoraswellsea.Havefunandbesafe. tions thatwedoonallislands. There arebadguysinGrenada,asanywhere,sowetakethesamesecurityprecau- police tofindandprosecutethesemen,mostofthestolenitemswererecovered. are injail.Thankstomembersofthelocalcruisingcommunityworkingwith beach isinjail.Thethreemenwhobrokeintoanumberofboatsstoredonmoorings ally putcriminalsinjail.Themanwhokilledafemaletourist2016onsecluded St. VincentbutwespendmonthsinGrenada?BecausetheGrenadaofficialsactu- crimes againstcruisersin2016.Sohowonearthcanwesaythatwillnotgoto Ironically, SafetyandSecurityNet.orglistedGrenadaashavingthemostreported like thepeopleandislandformanyreasonswefeelfairlysafethere. any othersingleislandinourlastfiveyearsofcruisingtheCaribbean.Wereally there inthesummermonths.WeprobablyhavespentmoretimeGrenadathan of thoseharbors. we sleepwithhatchesclosed,theboatlockedupanddefensivedevicesreadyinall coming onboardourboatandattackingusorstealingstuff.Wemakesurethat but wegothereknowingthatarerisksandtrytominimizetheriskofsomeone regular CoastGuardpatrols.WereallylikecruisinginBequiaandtheTobagoCays, responsible fordinghythefts,butincidentstherearefewersincehavebeen guys werearrestedbutnotconvicted. though therewasaviolentboardingin2012andagain2016.Eachtime,thebad persons whoassaultedthecruisersatFrigateIslandwerecaught,butneverjailed. on UnionIslandbecauseofseriousassaultsagainstcruisersin2013and2016.The repeated boatbreak-insandthefts.WeavoidstayingovernightatCliftonFrigate Blue LagoonMarina,whichhassecurityguards. during arobberyaboardyachtatWallilabouBayin2016,withtheexceptionof renowned forboatbreak-insandharassmentofcruiserswhoventureashore. Southern St.LuciaalsoincludestheareaneartownofSoufriere,whichis have notincarceratedthemenresponsibleforkillingaBritishcruiserin2015. attacks oncruisers.Wetendtoavoidthoseareas. for theSafetyAlerts.Thenreadtheirpastreportsonareaswheretherehavebeen on cruisingsafely.MyTopTipistologSafetyandSecurityNet.organdsignup chat, and23folksshowedup.Itwasalotoffunwehadspiriteddiscussion for safetyreasons.ThisyearwethoughtthatsixpeoplewerecomingtoLagoonies Maarten forthepasttwoyears,givingadviceonfunplacestogoandavoid memory. You’ll learnfromthehardknocks, it’s allpartofcruising. ties. Alwaysknowwhere’sthe closestembassy. present location.Ifyoumiss a check-in,theycancontacttheappropriateauthori- someone onaregularbasis, by phone,Skypeore-mail,todetailyourtravelsand Ziplock toavoiddamage. cards, paperwork,etceterain themostsecureplaceonboat,insideadouble ID, abankcardandlittlecash arenecessarywhenyougoashore.Keepallother of whatIshouldhavekeptsomeplaceelse.Unlessyou’reclearing inorout,onlyan bit ofpersonalinformation.Beverywarywhereyouexpose your pinnumbers. several safelocations,includinginanotebookandonyour laptop. Butprotectevery down everyaccountandpassword.Listphonecontact number.Keepthelistin by memory. and everyaccounthasapassword.It’salmostimpossibleto keepeverycrucialitem words controlourexistence.Youraccountnumbersrangefrom bankstoinsurance, — A moderatelybright12-voltLEDcockpitlightcombinedwithawell-securedcom- When sleepingforwardinaV-berth,youarequiteisolatedfromwhatevermightbe Security isaprimaryconsiderationwhereveryoucruise.Whenatanchor,never SECURITY MATTERS — JimHutchinson Local knowledgeisgoodstufftoaskforandshare.Ifyouhappenedanchor — GeorgeTodd Be awareofthesafetyproblemsandtakeprecautionsoravoidproblemareas. We followtheUSStateDepartment’sadviceanddonotgoanywherenearVenezuela. We spendalotoftimecruisinginGrenada,andstoreourbigbluecat, In Bequia,policeneverhavecaughttheinfamousboatcatburglarorpersons We doovernightintheTobagoCaystojoinlobstercookoutonbeach,even In theGrenadines,weavoidstayingovernightatCanouanandMayreau,owingto We avoidallofmainlandSt.Vincent,whereaGermancharterguestwaskilled We avoidthesouthhalfofSt.Lucia,includingVieuxFortwhereauthorities There aretoomanygreatplacestogointheislandslistthisarticle.At My wife,Jan,andIhavegivenalittlefreetalkforsouthboundnewbiesinSt. BE SAFEATANCHORANDHAVEFUN — RalphTrout Take cruisingseriously. Thereisalottoenjoy; everythingwillbecomeacherished Who reallyknowswhereyou are? Anotherimportantsafetytipistoconnectwith This isfreshinmymindhavinglostwallet.Theaftermath isaharshreminder Cruising takesyoutoforeignterritory,andthat’swhywedo it.Becareful.Write Not longago,weatherwasthemainconcernofeverysailor. Nownumbersand The boat’sallcheckedout,andyouarereadytocruise. NUMBERS andWORDS Continued frompreviouspage Ken Goodings aboard theBristol24 aboard theNiagara35 aboard theLagoon570 formerly aboard Sea Cow Ambia Silverheels III

catamaran

Wildcat Enjoy thebaguettesandpastries. every nightandlockeverythingup. avoid. Pullyourdinkoutofthewater Net willletyouknowwhichdocksto to passup.ThelocalCruisers’VHF from goingthere.Thefoodistoogood Caribbean. Thatdoesnotkeepus be thedinghy-theftcapitalof know beforeyougo. areas thatweavoid,soyouwill post theabbreviatedlistofriskiest the riskofbeingtoonegative,Iwill

The FrenchsideofStMartinmay

Wildcat , with Kids,PacificCrossingNotes,LessonPlansAhoy including twoseasonsintheCaribbean.Sheisauthorof sailing fromGreecetoAustralia, natural delights. enveloped inNature’ssoundsofwind,surf,birds,Coquifrogs,silenceandother of conservation,stickingwiththebasicsand,aboveallelse,lettingusbecome that isnottheintent.Instead,wehopenewcruiserwillconsiderbenefits peutic todowithout.Ithasbuiltanattitudeofgratitudethatwetreasure. iced drinkoricecream,werelishsimpletreatsallthemore.We’vefounditthera- heater onlyrunwhenthedieselison. use oflightsandfansatnight;refrigeration24/7.Ourwindlasswater Dufour35 from marinasaslongwewanted. allowed ustoextendourtimeaway funneling. Ourbiminiraincatcher and tugdownthemiddleforoptimal bimini slightly,attachathinline, the nozzlesowecouldloosen basin. Wesewedashortstrapbeside able babypoolweusedasalaundry into bottles,abucket,ortheinflat- to, sothatwatercouldbedirected shower waterwillbewarm!) water aftertreatingit.(Tip2:Getasolarshower—shorttimeinthesun,your to collectwaterfrompassingshowersanduseitforshowers,laundry,orasdrinking rencies topurchaseit(EasternCaribbeanDollar,US Euro,Guilder). pairs ofshortsandshirts,butyoudoneedloadssunscreen. my part. much moreIhaveyettolearn.Nevertheless,thisishomenow andIwillgladlyshare Caribbean watersdoesn’tgivemeawholelotofcredentials. Ican’tevenfathomhow it withcrimpedconnectors.Indeed,Iamtemptedtotryonacracker. problems, prematurebulbandfusefailure,heatdeteriorationoffixtures.Ialsouse but doesstopthegrowthofcorrosionbyproductsthatdocauseheatproblems,bonding ing ofdielectriconthecontactsdoesnotprovideanysignificantdamaginginsulation, years, andIhavemoresparefusesbulbsthancaneverneed.Apparently,acoat- using itonthecontacts.Whatadifference!Ihavenotchangedbulbmastin dried, crackingplasticandfixturessufferingfromheatdamage. thing, strugglingtogetbulbsandconnectorsloosethathadfused,replacing per yearforbulbfailure,replacingbulbsandfusesthroughouttheboatasaregular a lotofsparebulbsandfuses,resignedmyselftoclimbingthemastatleastonce I soondiscoveredthatmaintenancemeantalotoflittleelectricalnuisances.bought adventure novel. lived aboard powering upcomputers,phonesandcamerasfromabout9:00 on theirpowerneeds.Ourpanel’scombined215wattsblenders,grinders, that remainedoftheburglar’sfailedattempt. The bloodstainsofhisescapeasbodyslidoffthe generator oncerepelledawould-beburglarwhowascaughtunawareinthedark. issues thansolarpanelsdo.Iwillsaythatthebladesofafriend’strimaran’swind tions throughthehull,andwindgeneratorshavemorebreakagemaintenance (anchorage) while adorn theirboatbutthezzzzzsnakingsoundofwindgeneratorfillsair noisy generatorand/orruntheirdieselenginedaily.Additionally,solarpanelsmay watermakers orairconditioning,we’venotoncebeenjealous.Forthat,theycarrya solar overwindgenerators.Whenothercruiserstouttheiricecubes,frozengoods, Odyssey 40comingoutofcharterintheBVItoourliveaboardhome,waschoose in outfittingyourboataccordingly. natural worldandofferyouareprievefromnoise,lightairpollution;bedeliberate is more.”Inacomplicatedworld,yourselfcanplanyournewlifestyletoembracethe consider thatjusttheoppositeiswhatmakeslifeaboardsatisfyingandserene.“Less certainly recognizetherearemanyconsiderationsbutit’stimeforthesetwo: um, weurgesailorsnewtolivingaboardintheCaribbeanconsidertwothings.We — EllenBirrellandJimHutchins If we’veoffendedcruisingfriendswhohavehostedusforcocktailsontherocks, We cameupwiththeterm“deprivationtherapy”.Truly.Whenwegoashoreforan — NadineSlavinski We hadabiminimadewithscrew-onnozzleinthemiddlethathoseconnected Have arain-catchingbimini.Evenifyouhavewatermaker,itisboontobeable CATCH THERAIN You mayavoiddutytaxesonalcohol,butyouneedatleast fourdifferentcur- You don’tneedaheaterorheavysheets,butyousecure mosquitoscreens. There isafunnydualityofneedsintheCaribbean.Youdon’t needmorethanafew I’m nottheoldsaltyseadogthatIsometimespretendtobe. Ameretwoyearsin EMBRACE THEDUALITY — LaurieCorbett Then somebodysaidtogetatubeofdielectricgrease,andignoreanyadviceaboutnot This soundsboring,butitwasbigtome.WhenIadoptedthecruisinglifein2004, TRY DIELECTRICGREASE Nadine, husband,andyoungson Solar powerfora30-to50-footsailboatonlyworksifthecrewiswillingconserve One ofthebestdecisionswemadein2009whileconvertinga2001JeanneauSun 2. Solarpower. In aworldburgeoningwith“Theonewhodiesthemosttoyswins,”besureto 1. Simplify.Don’tneeditall.Downsize. As theanchoragesbecomemorecrowdedandsharingserenespaceisatapremi- SIMPLIFY! aboard theJeanneauSunOdyssey40 aboard the1981 aboard the35-footFountainePajotcatamaran Namani Boldly Go Namani for fouryears, restsquietly.Attheleast,evensilentbladessendvibra- Sparrow ismade outtobe. aren’t assweet asCapt’nJack unfortunately, Caribbeanpirates Jimmy Buffett,andRihanna. goes muchfurtherthanBob Marley, you needtoknowCaribbean music come toIslandTime! to becompletedonschedule — wel- being late,butdon’texpectanything You You don’thavetolikereggae, but You don’thavetoworryabout Boldly Go do , and ama need tobeawareofcrime; —Continued on nextpage Cat Tales The SilverSpider intothewaterwereall

Cruising theCaribbean AM to4:00 PM ; limited , asea SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 — Merengue. Freebird So, if you want to successfully So, if you want to It worked for us. We gathered down the drain. cruise as a family, visit popular cruisers’ gathering places to meet other kids. Your kids will have company along the way and can revisit them in other Caribbean ports. (Same method is true for a solo woman without kids; she needs a network of friends too.) our own personal posse of kid buddies before we embarked on the voyage to the Caribbean. Every year, families gather in Georgetown, Exuma, Bahamas to meet and voyage together, giving their children the social interac- in the Bahamas. Merengue Freebird

aboard the Beneteau aboard the aboard the 42-foot Grainger catamaran aboard the 42-foot Grainger catamaran Grenada and Montreal aboard the Island Packet 27 Premier Cru Currently circumnavigating the circumnavigating the Currently A NOTE TO ‘KID BOATS’ cruise. places, who make a successful Caribbean It’s the people, not the boxes to return a large catamaran in St. Thomas, packing I once met a father on sour the trip so quickly?” I asked. “What happened to wife became upset. kids got lonely without them and my “No other kids. My and effort and it breaks my heart. Years of planning I hear that all the time — Michael Magee — Michael Tina an award-winning author of two books, travel memoirs of her world cruise Tina an award-winning author of two books, We held morning kids’ nets via SSB radio when on passage, took tours togeth- We held morning kids’ nets via SSB radio of all those on board. Ditch “the So, before you cast off, consider the happiness — Tina Dreffin Jim and Wendy are beginning their 12th year aboard Want more advice? Check out the various Caribbean islands’ cruisers group on DON’T MISS GRENADA Since the 1970s, I’ve cruised the Eastern Caribbean from the US Virgin Islands Here’s my Top Tip: When cruising the Caribbean, be sure to venture south to (For more about Hog Island, see page 28 at www.caribbeancompass.com/ — D’Arcy O’Connor FINALLY — MAKE YOUR OWN DECISIONS! In our first years of cruising we benefited from the experience of our fellow Just remember that the cruis- Make your own plan, don’t be afraid to change it and enjoy the journey! — Jim and Wendy Ulik Caribbean after 15 years as a after 15 years as Caribbean Caribbean vaca- regular Eastern the Michael is now in tion cruiser, Guatemala for hurri- Rio Dulce, and bottom painting cane season through prior to heading north into Cuba, Belize, past Mexico, and onward to Haiti. reached the French cruise had ended before they even Stateside. Their Caribbean said it all. islands. His sad face am leaving, too. Bugger it all.” They left and now I ping plastic getting into the the getting into plastic ping Sea.) Caribbean 42 with kids. She has sailed down the Caribbean island chain a dozen times for hur- with kids. She has sailed down the Caribbean for winter activities and kids’ groups. In ricane season, returning to the Bahamas years, completing a circumnavigation in addition, she has cruised the globe for 40 2008. Her homebase is aboard tion they need. Armed with this magical method of er, and built beach bonfires in new ports. the world with them — interacting with keeping the kids happy, we sailed around and a blast! other boats with kids the entire way. Remarkable, place your family’s needs first. goals”. The goals will happen easily if you Facebook — or just join the nearest Happy Hour! south to Trinidad, as well as the western Caribbean through the Dutch Antilles, south to Trinidad, as well as the western Caribbean through the Dutch Antilles, Colombia, the San Blas Islands and Panama, usually as crew on various sloops, ketches or yawls. I now spend winters “on the hard” in Grenada while occasionally crewing on friends’ yachts, or racing Hobie Cats at my local sailing club. Grenada, which I consider to be the most friendly and beautiful of all the Windward Islands. While there, drop your hook off Hog Island, where you’ll meet sailors from all over the world, including some who (perhaps like you) have recently crossed the Atlantic. On any Sunday afternoon and evening you’ll hob- nob with fellow yachties at Roger’s Barefoot Beach Bar while drinking cheap beer and rum and dancing to live reggae or soca music. online/june16compass_online.pdf). cruisers. The wealth of information was invaluable. You’ll find that there will be no end to the opinions offered you — whether solicited or not! “Make sure you visit this island, don’t go there, that weather window looks perfect, this anchorage is better.” You’ll find that the opinions will be as varied as the number of rum drinks at your favorite bar. ing lifestyle is not a “one size fits all”. There is more than one way to do it. Gather the information, ask for opinions and at the end of the day make your own decisions. The weather forecast that one cruiser feels comfortable with might be more than your crew or boat can handle. Your buddy boat might want to keep moving and you would like to stay and enjoy your current location a little longer. The list goes on and on. Don’t feel pressured to go with the flow or do anything you’re not comfortable with. by . George’s Wildcat

above all else. Conari we need This also applies to arranging to Many cruisers we have met have the best places to stay if you the best places to stay if you take it slowly. take the boat to meet incoming guests in specific places at speci- fied times. Cruising weather can interfere with best-laid plans. Let the guests get to you — it’s part of their adventure. told us they regret not having had more time to explore further before moving on. Sadly they may never return. . We do not like being on a sched- . We do not like being Wildcat Wildcat schedule catamaran catamaran

Nai’a island attitude going. Start singing “Don’t Worry, Be

can be downloaded from iBooks, Smashwords, Kindle and schedule, not your guests’. Or better yet, don’t have a schedule. schedule, not your guests’. Or better yet, Island Sailing is NOT all Rum and Bananas Vol 1: Humorous Stories your aboard the Lagoon 570 very slow sailors aboard the Shannon 38 aboard the Lagoon 570 aboard the CSY 44 aboard the CSY 44 Continued from previous page previous page from Continued George and Jan Todd are testing their marriage for the fifth season in the George and Jan Todd are testing their marriage for the fifth season in the OF PACE AND PLASTIC My single most important piece of advice is this: to maximize your enjoy- — George and Jan Todd He was right. Stuck in St. Somewhere? No problem, mon! Would you rather He was right. Stuck in St. Somewhere? No problem, mon! Would you rather One spring, we spent two extra weeks in the BVI waiting for a weather window One spring, we spent two extra weeks in the BVI waiting for a weather window Take my advice if you want to stay married and not get voted off of the boat. Take my advice if you want to stay married and not get voted off of the boat. Every passage between every two islands is an offshore adventure. The timing Every passage between every two islands is an offshore adventure. The timing We have a suggestion. Get rid of that stuff. Don’t throw it away, because you We have a suggestion. Get rid of that stuff. Don’t throw it away, because you — Mike and Ineke Davies SLOW DOWN AND SMELL THE RUM Are you the type of organized person who has your entire trip to the Caribbean Whether you are a Caribbean newbie or a seasoned cruiser, you will learn or a seasoned cruiser, you will learn Whether you are a Caribbean newbie TAKE IT EASY sail fast”, and maintaining the phi- Contrary to the popular T-shirt, “live slow, — Jan Todd Run on There is a cruising adage that George and I learned to live by: We can tell you There is a cruising adage that George and Medical Warning: Schedules which require beating into 25-knot winds can lead Medical Warning: Schedules which require The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South: The Thornless Path to Windward Path to Windward South: The Thornless Guide to Passages The Gentleman’s My crew of three usually sticks to the French isles, as they tend to be cheaper to be cheaper they tend isles, as the French sticks to usually of three My crew mini- we can be true the Caribbean because nomads, we enjoy As low-budget — Chelsea Pyne The real problem involves the word The real problem involves DON’T RUN A CRUISE SHIP DON’T RUN A CRUISE and visit once you many friends and relatives want to come Isn’t it amazing how Eastern Caribbean onboard Admiral Jan’s blue Lagoon 570, ment, relax into, and adopt the pace of life presented in its various and different regions and embrace it from the onset. (And please be proactive in stop- first e-book from the Bahamas most e-book sites. beat your brains out offshore or slow down and smell the rum? The island is beat your brains out offshore or slow down and smell the rum? The island bound to have a rum distillery on it somewhere. Go find it. When the wind dies off and the gods aren’t looking, go, go, go! so we could make the 80-mile upwind passage to St. Martin. We told one of our so we could make the 80-mile upwind passage to St. Martin. We told one of our friends back in Texas that we were “stuck in the BVI for two extra weeks” while waiting for the wind to die down. Our friend said, “You must be the luckiest people on earth to be ‘stuck in the BVI’, on a beautiful boat, together. I have no sympathy for you.” Happy” instead of “Against the Wind”. Keep the overall plan — but throw away Happy” instead of “Against the Wind”. Keep the overall plan — but throw away your schedule. Get that “mañana, maybe” of a sailing passage is best determined by a weather window. Why not wait and of a sailing passage is best determined by a weather window. Why not wait and go when the wind gods say you can go? Bashing into 20 knots of wind and six- foot waves all day because we have to get to St. Somewhere on a schedule does not make Jan happy. put a lot of work into it. Maybe file it away at home so that when you stumble put a lot of work into it. Maybe file it away at home so that when you stumble across it two years from now you can laugh at the fact that your actual (wonderful stress-free) cruise calendar had no resemblance to your original timeline. printed on a timeline? Have you prepared a Power Point presentation for your printed on a timeline? Have you prepared a Power Point presentation for your Is friends and family, covering the entire route and all of the island destinations? your ship’s clock a chronometer synced to the atomic clock? If so, the wind gods will be watching and lying in wait for you. more of the different cultures and cuisines, meet more local people, and find meet more local people, and find more of the different cultures and cuisines, losophies of Doyle and Street, sail slow. Isn’t that the point of cruising? where we will be, or we can tell you when you can come down to sail with us, but where we will be, or we can tell you when we cannot tell you both. to loss of appetite and sexual desires. In serious cases, the side effects can last to loss of appetite and sexual desires. In to the duty free jewelry store. Extreme for months. Treatment may require a trip followed by divorce and the sale of cases can lead to a shortened cruising season the boat. ule, especially someone else’s. Schedules can get you into big trouble because we else’s. Schedules can get you into big ule, especially someone that beating into weather. There are few things less fun cannot schedule the because your friends are flying in Christmas Winds from St. Martin to Antigua months in advance so that they could tomorrow. They booked their flights three want them to fly into St. Martin. save $50, and do not understand why you and easier to clear in and out of. We use noonsite.com to double-check the clear- the to double-check use noonsite.com out of. We in and to clear and easier before setting sail. ance fees bar- the fast-growing continuously scrubbing If you like sweating, malists here. this is the for a living, and swatting mosquitoes on your hull, nacle community Cool off. jump in the water. all of the above? Just My solution to place for you. blue skies water and style. Warm, translucent to it later — Caribbean Come back never tire of — something are something you just — invaluable resource. Sant has been an Bruce Van get the boat to the Caribbean? The very same people who were too busy to help The very same people who were get the boat to the Caribbean? asking when you miles upwind to get to Antigua are now you sail the boat 1,400 one week (or two or they can fly in and be entertained for will be there so that to book too many people onboard. But it is too easy three...). We like having you are running a and the next thing you know, people in on tight schedules, charity cruise ship. SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26

JOAN CONOVER ANNA LANDRY offshore —there isnothinglikeapetwhorefuses tousethecorrect“facilities”. should I,doIwant to”dancesonshore.Practice yoursanitaryplanbefore youhead Labradors, theHavanese aretrainedtopeeon command, whichcanshortenthe “where Other cruisershave adesignatedspotondeck thatcanbehosedoff.Likemy fieldtrial we carrywashablepads,aspads arenotitemsfoundinjustanylocationthetropics. a littlemorechallenging.Ourdogs havebeentrainedfrombirthtouse“petpottypads”; pet shampoo,conditionerand brushesarealsoonboard. flea control,andBenadrylforallergies (knowyourpet’sdose),justincase.Ofcourse, haven’t hadproblemswithheartworms orintestinalworms. this combination,wehavenothadfleaissues,eveninourlong-coated dogs,andwe required asanentrypretreatmentforalmosteverycountry intheCaribbean.With that theheartwormmedicationprovidessomeadditional flea control,andFFPis worm medication(Sentinel)andFrontlinePlus(FFP)foreach dog.Wehavefound pet mightbeneeded,soplanforthat.Welikethesoft,foldable kind. allowing animals),togetyourpetfromtheboatvet’s office.Acarrierforyour ahead oftimeviae-mail,justtomakeanappointmentlater easier. additional locationsonSt.JohnandintheBVI.Wesendall ourpetrecordstothem Another veterinaryoffice,“Canines,CatsandCritters”,is near RedHookandhas distance fromthedinghydock,butaveterinarianinwalking distanceaswell. Walmart-type storesaswellexcellentveterinarians. British VirginIslandsorPuertoRico,wherewefindtheobligatoryKmart- eight monthsinthetropics,pickingupnewsuppliesUSVirginIslands, food theyareaccustomedto,anddecidehowwilluse“facilities”onboard. before youraisetheanchorandheadoffshore.Carryanadequatesupplyofpet your cruisingcompanions;theydeserveproperattentionandcare. come inallsizesandtypes! requirements orcanevenbedeniedentrytosomecountries.Likecruisers,boatpets ments, youwillsoonfindthatbirdsandevenhedgehogshavespecialrules — boatpetsallsharetheircaptains’adventures.Ifyoureviewpet-importrequire- pit ofhisvesselatCharlotteAmalie,tolittleZoe,aParsonsTerrieron the largeBengalcatwhohadaspecialfive-footdiameterexercisewheelincock- F Cats are fairly dependable as to using their designated bathroom facilities; dogs are Cats arefairlydependableasto usingtheirdesignatedbathroomfacilities;dogsare We alsohaveafirstaidkitwith eye/earantibiotics,Capstartabletsforemergency Obtain criticalpetmedicationsaheadoftime.Wetakeayear’s worthofbothheart- A considerationistransportation,suchasarentalcarortaxi (don’tcountonbuses On St.Thomas,CrownBayMarinahasnotonlyagoodpet storeinclosewalking For petfood,wecarryseverallargebagsofkibbleforthefirstlegsourusually It’s besttoletyourfurrycrewmemberstravelafewtimesonshorttripsaboard Plan aheadforpetcarewhileonpassageandislandhopping.Thesepetsare Plan Ahead Hassle-Free Caribbean We’ve seenpetsaboardalotofvesselsinthetropics,and—rangingfrom through Cuba,theVirginIslands,andWindwardLeewardIslands. our pets—threelittleHavanesedogssailingwithusaboard or thepastseveralcruisingseasons,myhusbandandIhavebeentaking Cruising withPets Plan Ahead for Plan Ahead by JoanConover S/V Sapphire Growltiger

JOAN CONOVER put acopyinourditchbag. well asleavingsomewithatrustedfriendashore.Asourhumanpassports,we receive documentationofallthisbeingdone,andbringseveralcopieswithyouas July/August -titertests;endofOctoberUSDAExportCertification.Makesureyou line: May-heartwormtestsandgeneralcheckup/dentalcare/vaccinesifneeded; foreign countries. our casePetPassportswithphotoandmicrochip,wedonothaveissuesentering Certification paperworkforeachdog,copiesoftherabies-vaccinationrecord,andin most stringentrules(i.e.thosefortheBritishVirginIslands),andwithUSDA more restrictivecountries(see“ANoteonRabies-FreeIslands”below).Wefollowthe necessary fortheCaribbean,andaspecialrabiestitertesttoallowentryinto ties, weaddressourpets’health-certificateneeds.Thisincludestheimmunizations for yourUSDAcertificatenumberduringCustomscheck-in),andCuba. for usintheBVI,USVI,St.Maarten,Guadeloupe,Dominica,PuertoRico(theyask copy ofyourdocumentationtocoveranylast-minutechanges.Thishasworkedwell veterinarian firstandgete-mailpermission.Makesureyouhavesentbya and donothavetoimportexportpaperwork.Butcheckwiththegovernment pets offthevesselortouchlandwiththem,youcanquarantinethemon Bahamas, andBermuda),ifyoucontactpriortoentry,donotplantakeyour cruising itinerary. cess providesyouwiththepaperworknecessarytoenternextislandonyour health certificates,forimportingandexportingapet.Eachentryexportpro- every countryyou’llvisitrequiresdocumentation,includingrecentlyobtained on arrival,andthen,justlikethecrewboat,exportingthemleaving.Nearly place, cruisingwillbemuchmorecomfortable. cated tocruising withpets:www.facebook.com/groups/CruisingwithPets country’s siteon theinternet;rulesdochange. There’salsoaFacebookgroup dedi- of thevariousnations andterritoriesthatmake uptheCaribbean.Check foreach veterinarians, asthisisthefirst avenueforgettingyourpetssmoothlyintoandout could beintrouble.Sothink ahead, always! another countrywithapetbut noexitpermit,andaCustomsagentchecks,you spread ofdiseasetoothercountries. IfyouleavetheBahamasandtrytoenter island groups.Theyareserious aboutvaccinesandexitpermitstopreventthe years agoaparvooutbreakoccurred andthediseaseisnowactiveinseveralof cessing; weusedavetintheAbacos.TheBahamashave real challengeasseveral tificate toCustoms. we justpresentthee-mailedpaperswithpermitand acurrenthealthcer- (Expect theprocesstotakeseveralweeks;startitnow!) Then,whenwearrive, Bahamas beforeweleavetheUSA;entrypermitsare e-mailedbacktous. all ourpets’healthrecords,withtheimportformand moneyordertothe this issomethingtoarrangepriorleavingonyourtravels. Wesendacopyof one year,foreachanimal,andsincetheyonlytakemoney ordersinpayment, your homebase.Forexample,theBahamasrequirean entrypermit,goodfor the tropics. lenges regardingrabies,heartworm,feralanimalsandother diseaseissuesfoundin guys! EachcountryintheCaribbeancanhavedifferentand specialhealthchal- prevent thespreadofdiseasebothintoandouttheirborders; theyarenotthebad expense) andpossiblefinesorworse.Thisisserious—thesecountriesaretryingto comply, yourisklossofyourpet,quarantineatagovernmentfacility(at not complicated—ifyouplanaheadandfollowtherules.Ifarewillingto to crewentryandexit,isusuallyassociatedwiththeCustomsprocedure.It’s and documentation,whenyouarrivetoclearintoanewcountryit’ssimilarprocess tive program,itjustmeansplanningaheadforacruise. immunized. Sincewedothesevaccinesandtitersforourdogsanywayasaprotec- unless youareintheNorthernCaribbean,mighthaveissuesgettingyourpet to theboatbeforeyouheadoffshore find aqualitylifejacketthatfitswell,andgiveyourpettimetobecomeaccustomed Have allofthenecessarymedicationsandpaperworkorganizedinadvance, Our plantotakepetsonacruisebeginninginNovemberincludessimpletime- Good documentationmakesallthedifference.So,aspartofourpre-cruiseactivi- For someislands(nottherabies-freeonessuchasBritishVirginIslands, When sailingfromonecountrytoanother,youwillbeineffectimportingyourpet The Paperwork With yourpet’sfoodsuppliesandmedicationsonboard,asanitaryplanin Thank goodnessfortheinternet ande-mailcontactwiththevariousgovernment Exit fromtheBahamasrequiresavisittoprivatevet,and severaldaysforpro- Be suretocheckeachcountry’sregulationsontheirwebsites beforeyouleave While import/exportrequirementsforpetsneedcarefulattentiontohealthrecords We makesurenoneofourpetsneedsavaccinationwhileinthetropics,because, —Continued on nextpage SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

TOM LANE At anchor, the dogs love roaming topside and making sure no arrivals are ignored are sure no arrivals making and roaming topside dogs love the At anchor, we have but just in case, to stay in the cockpit, our pups are trained Offshore, on the pet, Plus, depending be a joy on your travels. planning, pets can With a little run on the side deck have permission while at anchor to Our dogs do know they getting vaccines for our pets, just in caseNow we once more are doing paperwork and — they sit on the cabin top and observe the harbors. Like toddlers, our pets are pets are our Like toddlers, harbors. the top and observe the cabin sit on — they for tod- rules commonsense following In fact, deck alone. or on in the cockpit never do for your pets. to what you should dlers is similar changes, the and during sail During bad weather, from bow to stern. lifeline netting soft carriers being in their foldable they love below and kept contained; dogs are sent travel. for taxi or airline carriers are also suitable captain’s cabin. The and in the boat. No one our dogs do on our of visitors — at least an early warning they can offer we know there us, making sure little dogs alerting at least one of our nears without an alert, look at us for They are not yappy; they simply sound is company coming. deterrent for unwanted sit and observe. Boat dogs can be a confirmation, and then with three dogs. can be a type of warning system, especially boardings, or at least pass and make wakes. stern — for exercise, chasing dinks that — 51 feet from bow to sometimes use the is okay, according to our boy Ace.) They (A five-knot speed major reason for put- dinghy for a trampoline, which is one upside-down inflatable ting netting on the lifelines. be prepared and to make sure our compan- the winds blow us south again. It’s good to health risks we are beginning to seeions are healthy and protected from the increasing if you don’t travel, ticks are carrying morewith the vicissitudes of climate change. Even are increasing, and diseases are spreading.diseases, heartworm is spreading, fleas our pets for Dog Flu. So it’s not just aboutThis year, for the first time, we immunized for day-to-day life. They are your friends andcruising, it’s also taking care of your pets as they give you theirs.companions — give them your love and attention On deck or in the dinghy, training and precautions for pets’ safety — and your On deck or in the dinghy, training and precautions sanity — help everyone have a happy cruise

JOAN CONOVER Agents for: Long 62º 50.1’ W Lat 17º 20.3’ N W Lat 17º 20.3’ Long 62º 50.1’ Haul & Storage Haul and Launch $ 11 / ft. Haul and Launch $ 11 - ! Like your own lifejacket, they have to fit and ! Like your own lifejacket, they have to FREE high speed Wifi. . Beat the Hurricane season rush. Have access Our 164 ton Travel Lift has ability to lift boats up to 35 ft Our 164 ton Travel “QUALITY SERVICE AT A GREAT PRICE” GREAT A AT SERVICE “QUALITY BOAT YARD YARD BOAT tested by each pet LOCATED AT NEW GUINEA, ST. KITTS NEW GUINEA, ST. AT LOCATED LO St. Kitts Marine Works SS www.skmw.net E-mail: [email protected] Cell: 1 (869) 662 8930 REGULAR HOURS FOR HAUL: Thurs 8am to 3pm, Fridays 8am to Noon Monday to 24 hr manned Security, completely fenced property with CCTV. completely fenced property with CCTV. 24 hr manned Security, and electricity available. Water We allow you to do your own work on your boat. No extra charge for Catamarans. We Payments – Cash (EC or US$) Visa, Mastercard, Discover & travellers checks (must sign in front of us with ID) Special - 5% discount for full payment. wide and 120 feet long. Tie down available ($3/ft), backhoe available ($100/hr) to dig hole to put keel down Tie and in etc. Pressure wash, Mechanics ($45/hr), Electricians ($45/hr), Welding Carpenters available. Storage $ 8 / ft / month to your vessel to be launched at any time and not get stuck behind other boats. Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Safety Aboard on the boat. Safety offshore includes We follow some commonsense rules while A Note on Visiting Rabies-Free Islands Rabies-Free on Visiting A Note and you exists), rabies where another country USA (or from the are coming If you We also use our dogs’ lifejackets as a lifting method to get the pups into and out of We also use our dogs’ lifejackets as a lifting fitted lifejackets — are going to visit islands such as the British Virgin Islands that are rabies-free, your Islands that are rabies-free, as the British Virgin visit islands such are going to FAVN rabies levels. In the USA, for rabies vaccine special blood testing pets need take about six a calendar year) up, and good for (US$180 dollars and titer tests laboratory University of Kansas veterinarian to the turnaround from your weeks for that time is this involves, realize everything that While I will not cover and return. plus the cor- yearly. With a titer, test needs to be done and the rabies the real issue, rabies, Lyme/leptospirosis, (distemper/parvo, for each animal rect vaccinations from your it’s possible to obtain treatments, flea and heartworm/worm etcetera), It’s a few-days’ form for submission for export certification. veterinarian the USDA on paperwork US Department of Agriculture site for information turnaround. See the foreign country regulations: and information on www.aphis.usda.gov/aphis/ourfocus/animalhealth/export — the dink, and even up and down when the boat is on the hard. Our dogs’ names are the dink, and even up and down when the with leads, at an easy-to-reach location. on each jacket, and we have them placed, work. Get your pets accustomed to wearing the jackets before you start your cruise. work. Get your pets accustomed to wearing muzzle of the dog; some don’t have that fea- Be sure to obtain a jacket that lifts the quickly. ture. A dog’s head could be underwater SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 ings, makingsure theyarepaidfor,andkeeping tabsonmaintenance. time, checking to seethatusersareproperly securedandnotoverloading the moor- keeping records ontheageofcomponents, and makingsuretheyarereplaced on in mostplacesyouwillhaveto payifyouwishtousethem.Managementincludes pay foryourmooring.Inmarine parks,theentryfeessometimescovermoorings,but some places,suchasSt.Barts, asmallchargeaddedintoyourclearancefeehelps come first-servedbasis.(Deshaies inGuadeloupeisanexcellentexampleofthis.)In by theEUbutwhichareunregulated quicklybecomeprivatemooringsonafirst- not alwaysdonebythesame people. Thiswillhavetobepaidfor.Mooringsfunded short spaceoftimeinSt.FrançoisandatAnsesd’Arlet,to name justtwo. ure eveninForce11storms.Comparethiswithwholemooring fieldsfailingina thousands ofmooringsand,intheharborIlivedin,donot rememberasinglefail- is notlikeithasneverbeendonebefore:allovertheUKport officersmaintainmany airplanes withfewermishapsthanwehavetryingtotetherayachttheseabed.It cent safe.Somethingiswrongwhenhumanscanflymillionsofmilesincomplicated asking cruiserstodo. would bepreparedtobettheirhomethatitissafe.Becausewhattheyare asset. Iwouldlikeanyonelayingormaintainingamooringtoaskthemselvesifthey depending ontheintegrityofmooringsareoftenpeople’shomes,theirmajor two catastrophiconesinSaba.Theyachtsthatgetwreckedordamagedwhile Bay recently,andoneoffLePhareBleu.TherehavebeenseveralinDominica, inevitable. Forexample,inGrenadatherehavebeenthreemooringfailuresPrickly I considertopofthelinehavefailuresandmooringscompaniesthem propylene inbetween;they,too,areallgone. Another setinMartiniquehadchaintopandbottomsomeratherskinnypoly- didn’t gettotakealookatthembecausetheyhadallsnappedbeforeIgotthere. the craziestweremooringsinSt.François,Guadeloupethathadrubberrodes.I one broke,IhopePAYSpaysattentiontothisarticle. she sawthreemooringsbreakononedaythatgotmyattention.Ifitistrueeven PAYS project,butwhenacruiserpostedrecentlyonFacebookcruisers’groupthat some newmooringfields,suchastheoneinPortsmouth,Dominica.Isupport necessary toprotecttheenvironment,andinthesespotsanchoringisnoteasyeither. Martinique. MooringsintheSMMASt.Lucia,Saba,andothermarineparksare have createdanorderlysolution.MooringswouldbeequallyvaluableinSt.Pierre, moorings intheSainteshelpful,asanchoringtherewasnevereasyand limited anchoringskillsfindamooringtosecuretheirboat. places thereisstillplentyofanchoringspace,andweareallgladwhenthosewith space isbeingused,themooringsareapopularconvenienceforothers.Inmost mercial sectorand,whilesomecruisersobjectonthegroundsthatprimeanchoring legal mooringfieldsclosetomarinasseemsmeanaturaldevelopmentofthecom- which hasbeenbothgoodandbadformostofus.Theinstallationprivate,fully Asking thatmoorings beatleastassafehouses isnotanunreasonable request. If amooringistobesafeithas tobeactivelymanagedandmaintained,whichis Given thatmooringsareinessencesimple,theyshouldbewithinahairof100-per- It worriesmewhenmooringsthatareprofessionallylaidandmaintainedbypeople Many ofthemooringsinotherplaceshavesimplybeenwackydesign.Ithink There is,however,asignificantmooringsafetyproblem.Iamconcernedabout Safe asHouses? In someanchorages,mooringscanbeabighelp.Tociteexamples,Ifindthe There hasbeenaproliferationofmooringsintheEasternCaribbeanrecently, MUSINGS ON MOORINGS DECK VIEWFROMTIKANOTBYCHRISDOYLE too, willneedto beremovedandreplacedfrom timetotime. sary. Mantasand sandscrewsseemtowork well, butnothinglastsforever andthey, up. Achaincan beslippedthroughthepipe atalatertime,ifthatbecomes neces- ever sohavingawaterpipeembedded throughthecenterofblockisagoodback rebar isplacedintheconcrete asanattachmentpoint.Therebarwillnotlastfor- and unlikelytodrag,butifthey do,theywilldragslowly.Usuallyaheavypieceof mooring anchorslikemantasand sandscrews.Adequateconcreteblocksaresecure, Professionally placedmoorings usuallyconsistoflargeconcreteblocksorpatent anchor itself,butitisworth mentioningwhatyoumightfinddownthere. marking mooringsthatmustnotbeused,andchangingparts. They dohavetheadvantageofworkinginclearwater.I have seenthemactively grab. LesSaintesMultiservicesbringindiverstodoinspections threetimesayear. a scheduledreplacementprogram.Ialsoliketheirbuoys,which aretallandeasyto Most problemshavetodowith whatcomesupfromthemooring,ratherthan to putalinethough Left: ThebuoysintheSainteshaveatallringthatiseasy Note correctshackleloading Above: Thecomponentsofatypicalmooringsystem. main bodyandiseasilyvisible.Isuspectthattheyalsohave this cord,butifonestrandbreaks,itspinsoutfromthe ester monofilament.Idoubtthatthereisalotofstretchto Deltex, comprisedofatwistedropesinglestrandspoly- a mooringscompanyforyachtsandships.Thecordusedis on thebottomthatwasprofessionallydesignedbyMobilis, tem showninthediagram.Theyhavealargeconcreteblock they use?Thelayoutissimilartothegeneralmooringsys- ment, anditcanbesubjecttohighwinds.Whatsystemdo is sometimessubjecttoswells,therealwayssomemove- there hasnotbeenasinglefailuretodate.Themooringarea times havetowaitforone.Theyweredeployedin2011and moorings. Thesearesoheavilysubscribedthatyousome- In theSaintes,LesSaintesMultiservicesmanagearound80 —Continued on nextpage SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Note: For exact dates check with our booking agencies. For further information please visit our website or call us to discuss your speciﬁc needs. In at least two cases of failure, the rope had In at least two cases

Upcoming sailings 2017 St Thomas Martinique Martinique 2017 Nov. Dec. 2017 St. Thomas 2017 Nov. 2017 Nov. Central America Golﬁto Dec. 2017 Papeete Auckland Brisbane Dec. 2017 Dec. 2017 Jan. 2018 Jan. 2018 Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale 2017 Nov. Dec. 2017 giving warning, it must be replaced at safe intervals. The best must be replaced at safe intervals. The giving warning, it i i i i i i i i i i i without Also, it looked like a cheap, generic brand shackle. Would you trust your home to your you trust Would brand shackle. generic like a cheap, it looked Also, due to scary: rope just parting ABRASION. This is WITHOUT • ROPE FAILURES use in water it can weaken with for its load and, as must be oversized So, the rope ABRASION. • ROPE FAILURES WITH system (see the Mooring System diagram) One essential feature of a rope mooring all chain, which has a lot of advantages Many moorings in northern countries are or stop putting them down. When We in the Caribbean need to have safe moorings, everyone on board. In the meantime, let It will probably be a while before we get such a thing? All professional mooring fields should use stamped, rated shackles. shackles. rated stamped, should use fields mooring All professional a thing? such their very which by shackles, super-oversized not available, are rated shackles And if be used. to break, should bulk are unlikely used. I have of rope was being I don’t know what kind be specific, as strain. I cannot because it is cushion loads, and to stretch and because of its ability favored nylon realized that article, I had not researching for this strong. Until I was extremely see this as a 20 percent. I don’t nylon rope up to in water can weaken immersion just a reason to upsize. deterrent, over time be replaced within is that an oversized nylon rope should estimate that I’ve found five years. boat, left unattended for to its weakness. In one case the been abraded, contributing managed to catch deep water, and subject to two-way current, some days in rough, the keel of another boat rope on its own keel. In another, and abrade the mooring area that was I had a mooring once in a shallow, high-traffic had abraded the rope. cured by going to all day-charter cats’ props. This was frequently cut by passing will be within ten mooring users, this kind of damage chain. Luckily, for occasional mooring fields used by and easily inspected. But those with feet of so of the surface, System diagram. should consider the fix given in the Mooring long-term customers rope, making it less or so from the mooring is chain, not Here, the first ten feet in case it is hit. passing boat. Plus chain gives some protection likely to be hit by a be replaced by a five- suggested that the initial chain could Cruiser Kenn Stepman help keep the mooring out of the way of kilo weight about ten feet down. This will if there is an encounter. passing propellers, but gives no protection too easily snag on the concrete block of the is the lifting or riser buoy. Rope can all I have broken an anchor line that way — or mooring, or round the eye of a screw — needs to be added to the PAYS moorings on coral or junk on the sea bed. This feature already done so. before the coming season if they have not inspected and measured for wear. But and is probably significantly safer if regularly will see that all over the Caribbean. Also, in chain is expensive and I don’t think we However, as moorings in the Saintes have sharp sand it can wear down rapidly. designed moorings can be safe. proved, properly maintained professionally and steps need to be taken to make there are failures, these need to be investigated and ethically wrong to assume that it sure they are not repeated. It is economically ashore because that is the best we can do. is okay if every year we cast a few yachts has proved it. A few places are occasionally We can do better. The Saintes example Saba, Statia, and Roseau in Dominica are subject to exceptional swells and wind. — or should we say mooring — watch good examples. In such conditions an anchor should be maintained until conditions moderate. make sure there is no damage in the the user beware. Always dive on your mooring, okay as far as you can see. Avoid moor- first ten feet or so and that everything looks down and maintained. ings that have not been professionally put MEDITERRANEAN – CARIBBEAN Palma de Mallorca Oct. 2017 2017 Palma de Mallorca Nov. Genoa FLORIDA – CARIBBEAN Ft. Lauderdale 2017 Nov. 2017 Nov. FLORIDA - SOUTH PACIFIC Florida Florida Florida Florida Dec. 2017 Florida Dec. 2017 Dec. 2017 Dec. 2017 Dec. 2017 Palma de Mallorca Palma de Mallorca Oct. 2017 Genoa 2017 Nov. [email protected] E Palma de Mallorca Palma de Mallorca 2017 Nov. Ft. Lauderdale Dec. 2017 Ft. 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YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM MEDITERRANEAN – FLORIDA Turkey Tuzla, Sept. 2017 CARIBBEAN – FLORIDA Martinique 2017 Nov. CARIBBEAN – MEDITERRANEAN St. Thomas 2017 Nov. FLORIDA – MEDITERRANEAN Ft. Lauderdale Sept. 2017 Martinique Dec. 2017 Palma de Mallorca Sept. 2017 Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale Sept. 2017 Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale Oct. 2017 Genoa Oct. 2017 Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale 2017 Nov.

DYT USA: SAILING SCHEDULE Continued from previous page previous page from Continued • SHACKLE FAILURE: From the pictures I saw of the shackle failure on the I saw of the shackle failure on the • SHACKLE FAILURE: From the pictures Some Causes of Failures Causes of Some know of Two I be done. what might and see the failures at some of us look Now let Always dive on your mooring; otherwise you have no idea what is down there Always dive on your mooring; otherwise internet, it looks like the shackle may have been side loaded (see the inset on the have been side loaded (see the inset on the internet, it looks like the shackle may deliberately place a shackle like that, Mooring System diagram). No one would the joining shackle might manage to but if there is too much room in the links, make sure this cannot happen by sizing turn to that position. It is essential to components correctly. have been shackle failures, two have been unexpected line failures (meaning the line line failures (meaning have been unexpected shackle failures, two have been chafe. line failures due to and two have been and looked fine), was inspected — SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 was forecasttostartaroundmidnight. be restedincaseitturnedouttoanall-nighter.It were cominginandsettled.Iturnedearlyto water, notanaturalslick. slick formedonthesurface:machineryandbilge board-powered dinghiesrunningbackandforth.A local diesel-poweredfishingfleet,andtherewereout- the stern. ran linesdiagonallyintothetreesfrombothsidesof nosed myboatintothetreeswithtwobowlines,and advertising onitsbows.Iputoutasternanchor, locally built,andakitesurfingcatamaranwithbig between spots werealreadytakenbutIfoundaniceberth before Imademymovearoundnoon.Myfavorite into theholeonce,byBret.Herewegoagain. expected tohitaroundmidnight. Don. Wearedeadcenteronitsforecasttrack.Donis mon. Doesn’tseemtobemuch. than tendegreeseastofus,shortnotice.Wewatching, also alotofworkbutlessstress. storm. NowadaysImoveintoastormhole,whichis storm… andsometimesafter. calm. Icould up atmidnighttopee(prostate,youknow)ithadgone which continuedforacoupleofhours.ButwhenIgot In myexperience,thereisoftenacalm apart. Thereistheproverbial“calmbeforestorm”. ing strength.OrmaybeDonwasweakeningorfalling gone stationarysoutheastofBarbadosandwasbuild- started up-islandtotheeastofus.Orperhapshe’d north, asmanystormsdoaroundthislongitude,and net, Icouldonlyguess.Hehavehookedtothe was overcast,darkandquiet. the east,butitwascalminmangroves.Thescene At 8:30 As eveningcame,thingsquieteddown.Thosewho The restofthefleetwasstillcomingin,including A largefleetofearlybirdshadalreadygonein It’s onlymid-Julyandwe’vealreadybeenchased By TuesdaymorningithasbecomeTropicalStorm Monday. We’vegotapop-upweathersystemless 0230 pee.Calm.WherewasDon?Havingnointer- I PM of stress(andsomeexcitement)duringthe ’02). Itwasalotofworksettingupand storm inAdmiraltyBay,Bequiaonce(TSLili, survived adirecthitbyfull-blowntropical Free thewindbegantopickupandgustsome, hear , abeautiful,heavywoodensloop, wind,probablyoverthehighhillsto —Continued onnextpage beauty of the Marina. Marina. the of beauty natural the with Aruba in facility shopping and entertainment largest the combining community waterfront picturesque this of much over stretches It marina. beautiful most island‘s the is Marina beside the Located at 12° 31' 2.3124'' N 70° 2' 16.8'' W, Renaissance W, Renaissance 16.8'' 2' 31' 12° at N70° Located 2.3124'' The Renaissance Marina, located in the heart of heart the in located Marina, Renaissance The Casino and can accommodate more than 50 yachts. yachts. 50 than more accommodate can and Casino Oranjestad is part of the Renaissance Aruba Resort and and Resort Aruba Renaissance ofthe part is Oranjestad by JimHutchinson TROPICAL STORMDON NOAA Operating Hours: Mon - Sat, from 8am to6pm 8am from -Sat, Mon Hours: Operating www.renaissancemarina.com website: our visit or +297 at 588-0260 byphone us Contact available. machines ice and showers are there convenience your aday. For 24hours duty on guards security with TV satellite electricity, 60Hz 110/220/360V and water running fresh supplies marina The in theforecasttrack the blueline—deadcenter We areonthelowerendof SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

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and be part of our family. our webpage “But they say there’s a storm coming. And they say And they coming. a storm they say there’s “But all everyone went to read an article where “Ha! I just VISIT US! 787.863.0313 787.863.5282 [email protected] The mangroves at Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou remain The mangroves at Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou was taken a popular refuge from storms. This photo in the summer of 2007 ¡ peared — the forecast was wrong. This storm could peared — the forecast was wrong. This hit some- fizzle like Don did. Besides, it will probably one else — they usually do — that’s a fact.” still trying to fix the exercise machine.” the exercise to fix still trying know really the new models using the forecasts that will do.” what the storms the storm simply disap- of preparing and the bother open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm DIFFERENCE IS T: F: E: Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera, Fajardo, Puerto Rico • 282 Fixed Slips • Wide Concrete Finger Piers • On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel Delivered on all Slips except on Dock “A” • Safety, Cleanliness and Service is our Primary Concern • Whole Area Patrolled by 24 Hour Security • Camera Surveillance • Official Cruising Station of SSCA

THE what we do and the way we do it.what we do and the way we do it. the flags that were in the bay.” Close to: are “Sheep. One of them ducks for cover, the others fol- “Sheep. One of them ducks for cover, the “Well, yes, those And weren’t “Besides, don’t you have noodling today? It’s good when people can come away from a storm from come away people can when It’s good later.) (Some months into the hurricane the yachts are moving “Honey, all and it is going to hit us dead center.” or French… all low. Mostly Americans, I’ll bet. Or Brits those Europeans, sheep, all of them.” And I’m you going shopping with the girls tomorrow? threat with a sense of humor. with a sense threat a tropical storm forecast says it is already hole. The Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Tropical Storm Don had a lot of people worried. Don Tropical Storm Don had a lot of people worried. I wait for those who want out in a hurry to leave. I wait for those who want out in a hurry Diesel engines begin to rumble and occasionally Diesel engines begin to rumble and A passing shower. Sun becomes evident behind the A passing shower. Sun becomes evident The first human voices carry across the water. The first human voices carry across Remarkably, there have been no mosquitoes or or Remarkably, there have been no mosquitoes There is a low layer of broken cumulus moving west- There is a low layer The growing light fades the curtain of darkness cov- The growing light fades Nature’s morning chorus begins with its loudest with its loudest chorus begins Nature’s morning 0400 pee. Calm. I’m well rested, so I stay up. Now I stay up. rested, so I’m well pee. Calm. 0400 started out blustery and made us consider our options. started out blustery and made us consider and fizzled But he didn’t actually amount to much early. There are some who have observed/suggested/ of anoth- hoped that this might be symbolic/prophetic er Donald. Then I mosey out about noon, roam the nearly empty Then I mosey out about noon, roam the bay and pick my spot at the outer fringe. roar. Man’s day has begun. clouds above high hills to the east. The low clouds are clouds above high hills to the east. The is begin- becoming patchy. The altocumulus overcast of pale blue ning to break. There are isolated patches to the east. Humanity has begun to stir. sand flies. erly at 15 to 20 knots and a solid overcast above. The erly at 15 to 20 knots surface has wind on the water is five to ten knots; the begun to ripple. ering the black hills, grey shapes begin to form then ering the black hills, yellows to browns in the family of faint hues of color, that seem to deepen as the green, mottled in shadows colors emerge. voice first, a soloist — high on the hills behind the on the hills behind a soloist — high voice first, he for a while, then a rooster crows. Silence mangroves to of the sky seems Overhead the black crows again. first light begins. A broad be fading. Imperceptibly, in the mangroves: pigeons, chorus of cooing begins solo singers in this slow-motion doves. Presently the tropical mockingbirds with their opera come in: the clever tunes. All else is silence. diverse repertoire of the air begins to move, barely at Then, amid the calm, and a light rustle of upper first, then a light breeze the chorus. mangrove leaves accompanies begins the finest time of day aboard a yacht in the a yacht day aboard time of the finest begins to are in the prelude maybe anywhere. We tropics — it The sky is overcast; It is calm and quiet. first light. first I’m sipping my is peacefully waiting. is dark. All in the cockpit. cup of coffee — SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 GCRL scientists andcolleaguesthroughout theregiontoidentifysource and and tropicalNorth Atlantic.Dataprovidedto thissitewillcontinuetobe usedby website designed forreportingpelagicsargassum observationsintheCaribbean vide contactinformation indirectresponse toyourreport),andcomments, toa and dataincludinglatitude longitude,photographsifpossible(Jimwillpro- from avastsolidmatofweed more thanafootdeep.) trapped insargassumweedoff Africa;shehadtouseamachetecutherboatfree ous impacts.(SolosailorDonna Lange,duringher2015-2016circumnavigation,was atlantic sailors,suchasthose intheAtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC),canfaceseri- cruising regionsfromWestAfricatoSouthAmericaandthe Caribbean, wheretrans- parts ofthetropicalAtlantictobeadded.Thisisespecially critical fortheequatorial validation arecritical. now thereisaworkingprototypefortheearlywarningsystem, andmoretesting continue toreportwhenandwhereyouseetheweed!Thisis especiallyimportantas warning systemforthesargassum?Getwordouttoother concernedpeople,and general webelievethatfutureyearswillalsohavesimilarevents.” because wedon’tknowwhatcausedinter-annualvariations inthepast,although and thisturnedouttobetrue. this yearwepredictedthatwillbeanothersargassum yearfortheCaribbean, months oflead-timetorespondbeachingevents.Forexample, backinFebruary Eastern Caribbeaninspringandsummer.Sothispredictiongivesatleasttwo the AtlanticinFebruary,wecanpredictthattherewouldbemajorblooms allow betterunderstandingofvariationandaggregationpatterns. and patternsofsargassumweedarebecomingbetterknown;ongoingresearchwill sargassum aggregationandmovementdirections. — her seventhworldcircumnavigationvoyageunderthecommandofCaptainDaniel studies leadingtopracticalandwrittenexaminationsbyRYAexaminersinGrenada. sea instructiontocomplementtrainees’onlineRYAYachtmasterOffshoretheory — Trudi Inglisreports:StartinginMarch2018,thetallship Tall ShiptoCircumnavigatefor7thTime Contact schoonerruth@gmail.comforinformationonjoiningthefullprogramorlegs. Captain GerritScheper,MasterofYachtsandanRYAInstructor,willbeproviding GCRL’s SeniorScientist,Jim Franks,askscruiserstoinputtheirobservations By reportingdata,cruiserswill allowDr.Hu’steamtofine-tunetheprocessingtools. More datapointsmeanmoreaccuratepredictionmodels,and therearestillother What cancruisersandotherboatersdotoassistinthedevelopment ofthisearly How CanBoatersHelp? “Longer-term prediction(e.g.nextyearorfutureyears)is currently notpossible According toDr.Hu,“…ifthereisalargesargassumaggregationin‘hotspot’ Thanks tothisinformation,alongwiththeworkofJimFranks,migrationpaths It distributesdailyimageswithsurfacecurrentssootherscanvisuallyestimate otne rmpg 3 …TrackingSargassum Continued frompage13 …BusinessBriefs Continued frompage9 Picton Castle willsetsailon

It’seasytouse this sitetoreportsargassumsightings page 36formoreinformation. Amazon.com. Seeadon cruisingoutpost.com Outpost Island Fever your seat!” will haveyouontheedgeof Caribbean, andthefirststory stories andarticlesfromthe reviews itgarnered: are justacoupleofthe became aninstanthit!Here was published,andit from CaribbeanCompass Cruising Life:theBestStories trainees onboard vide proofofgoodhealthandparticipateinaninterview. Scotia, Canada. age bothstartsandendsintheUNESCOWorldHeritagetownofLunenburg,Nova Helena, GrenadaandDominicaintheEasternCaribbean,Bermuda.Thevoy- the SouthPacific,Bali,Mauritius,Reunion,Madagascar,Africa,Namibia,St. climbed MountEverestthanhavecircumnavigatedtheglobeinsuchawindjammer.” Due toourvoyagesthatisnolongertrue.Butitstilltruefarmorefolkshave who hadwalkedonthemoonthansailedaroundworldinasquare-rigger. has mademorearound-the-worldvoyagesinasquare-riggerthanMoreland. the Caribbean.” beautiful islandsof visited orplanstovisitthe have’ foranyonewhohas book. Thisbookisa‘must any cruisingguideortravel arrive intheCaribbeanthan what youwillfindonce more first-handknowledgeof tions dothesame. their networkof membersviawebsiteandpublications. Wesuggestother organiza- Association —the world’slargestassociation of cruisingsailors—isactively notifying satellite observations. e-mailed toPhDstudentMengqiu [email protected] a reportingsystemwheredetailed informationcanbefilledinareportingcardand http://gcrl.usm.edu/sargassum/sargassum.observation.form.php examine themovementsandcausesofextraordinarysargassumevents. tion personally,includingsevenincommandof Ships Americain2016.Theupcomingvoyagewillbehiseighthglobalcircumnaviga- ing vesselrigging,andwasrecognizedwithaLifetimeAchievementAwardbyTall nized internationallyasaleadingauthorityonsquare-rigsailingandtraditionalsail- Castle’s seven, isthatwhileCaptainDanielMorelandhasbeenincommandofall experience, traineesgettimeoffinthevariousportstoexploreashore. diesel engineoperationforthosewhoareinclined.Whilethisisprimarilyaseafaring making, rigging,marlinspikeseamanshipandcelestialnavigation,evenlearning help withcleaningandmaintenance.Theywillhavethechancetolearnsail- compass, tohandlelinesandsails,steertheship,smallboats, enced crew,theship,andsealiterallyteachthemropes.” Coordinator. “Somehavesailedbefore,somehaven’t.Ineithercase,theexperi- “Trainees comefromallovertheworldtosailwithus,”saysMaggieOstler,Voyage staff crewandupto40trainees,manyofwhomhavenosailingexperienceatall. Moreland. Onboardwillbe52crewmembersincluding12experienced,qualified Cruising Life “ — BettyKarl,authorof “This isagreatcollectionof Four yearsago,thee-book Cruising Life! Happy Anniversary, Visit www.picton-castle.comformoreinformation. In thepast20years,over1,500peopleofallagesandnationalitieshavesailedas Trainee applicationsarenowbeingaccepted.Candidateswillberequiredtopro- Some oftheportsvisitedonvoyageincludePanama,anumberislandsin Says Moreland,“WhenIstartedout,weusedtosaythatthereweremoremenalive — Making thisparticularvoyageparticularlyspecial,otherthanbeingluckynumber Alongside theprofessionalcrew,traineecrewstandwatches.Theylearntouse In support of this data-collection effort, the international Seven Seas Cruising In supportof this data-collectioneffort,the internationalSevenSeasCruising Likewise, Seakeepers.organd theSargassoSeaCommissionhavealsodeveloped Please fileyourreportontheformat Cruising Life Bob Bitchin, magazine,www. previous voyagesaroundtheworld,thiswillbehislast.Morelandisrecog- is available from isavailablefrom ispackedwith Cruising Picton Castle

. Picton Castle . Nobodyalivetoday Picton SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 Caribbean Caribbean Contact was founded in 1995, was founded in 1995, We look forward to seeing you all Readers, Take Our Survey! Ever since the Show Sponsorship can the Marine Vendor bring more show participants; please contact us for more information. Sponsorship Information can be found on the website.) at the show, December 4th through 10th. [email protected] or [email protected] for more information. Compass every three years we’ve asked our readers for their input via a Readers’ Survey. The results, thanks to your informed, intelligent and sometimes iconoclastic responses, have allowed us to increase “customer satisfaction” on an ongoing basis. You do a great job of plotting the way- points that keep us on course! http://bit.ly/2eU3zsL Registration Open for Antigua Charter Yacht Show The Antigua Charter Yacht Show reports: The 56th Yacht charter companies can now make multiple Participate in our Compass Readers’ Survey 2017 Annual Antigua Charter Yacht Show’s new registration is now open and fully operational at https://registration.antiguacharteryachtmeeting.com. We now have full online credit card payment facilities for both VISA and Mastercard. registrations within their account for both agents and yachts. Marine Vendor registration defaults to maximum of two participants per company. (Only with now at Perhaps it is the tiny island custom — to go out of your way to help others, even Perhaps it is the tiny island custom — these critters are usually harmless, washing pillow covers regularly could help pre- these critters are usually harmless, washing to do when your boat doesn’t come with venting spreading them around. Not so easy a washing machine! just wanted to get rid of the creepy yellow- strangers. Or maybe the Union Islanders making sure we get to where we need to be, eyed girl wandering their streets. From us the best gems a Russian could find to inviting us into their homes, to offering our — Union Island was a pleasure. Although I’m certain to have more fun next on return sail, when I can take on a few margaritas and see clearly (until the margaritas till kick in). So thank you, Union Island, for piecing together this wandering sailor — next time! contacts, I can still stretch out their lifespan to last a week. If even the slightest slightest even the a week. If to last lifespan out their still stretch I can contacts, to clean trick is Another no problems. and have fresh pack I open a is felt, irritation and soap. water in very hot soaked be fully The case must often. case the contacts However, the or mites can thrive. in which bacteria to eliminate any area The goal is Although most causing itchiness. and eyebrows, at live in people’s ears mites also Tropical eye allergies aboard — who knew? ‘My new nickname was Six Eyes’ Tropical eye allergies aboard — who knew?

next to Nai’a Carriacou Corn Festival Experience a family friendly mixture of food and Visit [email protected] for more information. music on October 29th at the inaugural Carriacou Corn Festival at Footprint Behind Sands, which explores the variety of ways corn, a crop indigenous to Carriacou is prepared for eating. There will be a local string band and steel pan playing, Quadrille dance performances, domino competitions, and much more to keep everyone entertained.

we easily strolled along the Windward strolled along the we easily

WWW.STLUCIA.ORG Nai’a,

by Chelsea Pyne by Chelsea

Continued from page 6 & Updates … Infos ‘UNION-EYES’ Since, I have not experienced any eye allergies. Although I now have one-a-day Since, I have not experienced any eye allergies. Although I now have one-a-day For the next week I took eye drops, avoided alcohol and wore sunglasses over my For the next week I took eye drops, avoided I approached the woman at the counter to ask if she had eye medication and I approached the woman at the counter We were delightfully surprised with the main street storefronts offering homemade We were delightfully surprised with the In our 44-foot 1977 CSY cutter, 1977 CSY cutter, In our 44-foot Thanks to my Irish heritage, I am usually the palest person in the room. The sun person in the room. am usually the palest my Irish heritage, I Thanks to We got underway for an island that was not solely a resort. Only three miles long an island that was not solely a resort. We got underway for St. Lucia’s Arts & Heritage Month St. Lucia will be celebrating Arts & Building on the celebration of Visit www.stlucia.org/summerfestival/arts-heritage- But, while waiting in line to buy Carolyn a drink, I heard It was Randy West and he was wasted — but in a It was just like old times. Rest in peace, Randy. The Heritage Month from October 1st through 29th. Creole Day, which began in St. Lucia in 1981, this month-long Festival is a celebration of the rich- ness and diversity of the island’s cultural, ethnic and artistic heritage. With musical, theatrical and other performances, with seminars and lectures, with varied culinary experiences, with street parties and with art exhibitions, this Festival will culminate on the weekend of October 28th and 29th with a celebration of International Creole Day in designated communities, marking the end of St. Lucia’s first Summer of Festivals. festival for more information. — a familiar laugh — a deep, rich laugh from my youth. most delightful way. And he was soon hugging Carolyn and me as we traded stories, swapped tales, and exchanged salt-stained triumphs. And then he told us about painting a monkey red on St. Kitts and we were writhing around on the floor, laughing and screaming, “No more, Randy, no more… our laugh muscles are cramping!” Caribbean’s loss is Fiddler’s Green’s gain. thick eyeglasses. My new nickname: Six Eyes. It took us a few weeks to sail back to thick eyeglasses. My new nickname: Six He told me that many people develop St. Martin, where I finally saw an optometrist. irritation was due to microscopic mites allergies in tropical climates. This particular conditions and enjoy room and board and parasites in the air. They thrive in humid wasn’t powerful enough to zoom in and see on eyelashes. Although his microscope up. I showed him the antibiotics that I them himself, all the symptoms added lacked English, French and German). He received from Union Island (its directions find found a better prescription for me, with directions in French, but at least I could A help with French. The next step was to avoid wearing contact lenses for too long. fresh pair every few days would help reduce redness — and this worked very well. explained my situation. She told me to wait while she phoned the hospital. We explained my situation. She told me to was on her way home. Luckily, the doctor learned that the doctor had just left and there. Another woman arrived at the door lived down the street and would meet us grateful for her kindness, we set off on to walk us to the doctor’s home. Incredibly in an overgrown apartment complex, another adventure. After waiting 15 minutes in fact, not a doctor, but could still check we were invited upstairs. The woman was, sat in her kitchen, surrounded by Dora the my eyes and write me a prescription. I at myself. I was told to take antibiotics Explorer tidbits, and couldn’t help but laugh I paid my EC$60 bill (about US$25) and and to see an optometrist in Grenada. another EC$45 for the prescription. I could returned to the pharmacy to lay down to happen this way, but I was very happy have never imagined getting a prescription that it worked out. yogurts, gourmet products, fresh produce galore — but all at a fancy price. After yogurts, gourmet products, fresh produce nationality (believing that we were Russians having a local gentleman question our buying his gemstones), we made our way and wondering if we were interested in directions to a pharmacy. We weaved our towards the nearest bar. There I was given across people’s yards avoiding their goats, way down dirt roads with no street names, if we were headed in the right direction. The and poked our heads into shops to ask the tiny room had shelves stocked with pharmacy was one like I’d never seen before: shoes, school supplies, diapers and wigs. Happy Island in Clifton Harbour. The water was a classic Caribbean turquoise full Harbour. The water was a classic Happy Island in Clifton Turning left, then made the dinghy ride to shore a labyrinth. of coral heads, which costs. again — avoiding dark spots at all a sharp right, then back Islands last March. My eye trouble started on a crossing from Mayreau to Union My eye trouble started on a crossing Islands last March. sensitive to light. For Like my skin, my eyes are also very Island, in the Grenadines. doesn’t like me. Which is why I’m usually the one at the beach in a big hat, a long- at the beach in a big I’m usually the one me. Which is why doesn’t like like a madwoman. and reapplying sunscreen sleeve shirt and one mile wide, Union Island is small, but mighty. We anchored Union Island is small, but mighty. We and one mile wide, about a week, I experienced eye irritation — redness, itchiness, and overall pain eye irritation — redness, itchiness, about a week, I experienced lenses in a matter I went through an entire pack of contact when I closed my eyes. went without them and I just needed a fresh pair. Finally, I of days, thinking that And it did, for about a a week to see if the irritation would heal. wore my glasses for went bloodshot and my to my contacts my eyes immediately day. When I returned a photo to send to my This was shocking. I sent my mom left eye turned yellow. text, “Get to a doctor!” to get his opinion. I soon received the childhood eye doctor Island. given my location — teeny, tiny Palm Easier said than done, SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 by Lynn Kaak or even,yes,“vomitfruit”. names. Itisalsoknownas“cheesefruit” it doeshavesomeredeemingqualitiesintraditionalmedicine.Thisisagoodthing,astheripefruitknownforbeingrathe be desired.Theverypalegreen,bulbousfruitwiththelittlespikes—lookingabitlikeyoungpineconemadeofwaxisn Hey, Noni! LOOK OUTFOR… oxidant andantibioticproperties;possiblyanti-cancerpropertiesaswell.Thislastapplicationisbeinginvestigated fur being soldcommercially.Thepurportedbenefitsincludeincreasedmentalalertness;helpinstrengtheningthenervous, skeletal prized bysomeasahealthtonic,andis treat dysentery, poultices ortomakeaninfusionused the leaveshavereportedlybeenusedfor medicines. InsomepartsoftheCaribbean, and barkareallutilizedintraditional medicinal properties.Thefruit,leaves is foritspossiblehealthbenefitsor of food. fruits orleavesasamorecommonsource have developedrecipesthatutilizeNoni tion, butothers,suchastheThaipeoples, only intimesofdesperationandstarva- peoples seeitasa“faminefood”,eaten as well.Granted,someofthePolynesian cultures, andtheroastedseedsareedible Noni iseateneitherraworcookedinsome Polynesian batiks. a purpledye.Bothhavebeenusedin dye, whilethebarkcanbeboiledtocreate growing sourceofshade. ple leaves,itmakesforagood,quick- age heightofninemetres,andlargesim- can startbearingfruit,andwithanaver- maturing quickly.Within18months,it known forbeingafastgrower,and seeds, orfromacutting. happily growfromoneofitsmultitude too cold.It’sjustthatkindoftree.Itcan its rootsinto,justaslongitdoesn’tget grow prettymuchanywherethatitcandig shade, sun,sand,rocks…well,itcan and cantolerateafairamountofsalt, throughout thetropics.Itisquitehardy, by theEuropeanswhopropagatedit often thecase,itsterritorywasincreased Southeast AsiaandAustralasia,butasis REPOWER FORREPOWER A BOAT RENEWED LIFE insint martin maarten /saint All necessary infrastructures at lower prices (Boatyards, intl. airport, hotels, shipchandlers...) technicians. qualiﬁed level high our with time save and installation your Improve Save time and costs with engines +drives directly imported from USA. island. a in FREE DUTY Save money : Martin /Saint Maarten in Sint torepower Beneﬁt value. resale boat’s your boost you’ll least, not but last And You’ll also cut costs and reduce environmental impact, thanks to lower fuel consumption. increase performance and maneuvering, as well as reliability, on-board safety and comfort. Volvo Penta’s complete repowering kits make it easier to install a newengine, which will Repowering your wi boat withanew engine Maybe thisoneisworthholdingyourbreathfor! Morinda citrifolia You mightnoticethisodd-lookingfruitonbushesinplacesrangingfromwell-keptgardenstodesertedbeaches.Asfarasaesth As youtravelthroughtheCaribbean,everymonththere’ssomethingspecialtolookoutfor. The juiceoftheNonifruitishighly Where Nonimightbebestknownnow While itmaybetheLimburgeroffruits, The rootscanbeusedtomakeayellow This memberofthecoffeefamilyis wasoriginallynativeto ll improve your overall boating experience. experience. boating overall your ll improve

ther. 'LHVHO6HUYLFHV &DUDwEHV Contact Contact us forany quote orinformation ot goingtowinany“BestinShow”prizes,but r odorous,whichcontributestoitstwoother E mail : [email protected] [email protected] : E mail anddigestivesystems;skincare;highanti- etics go,thefruitofNonileavemuchto Phone : (+ 590) 590 870 373 www.caraibesdiesel.com www.caraibesdiesel.com SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

d s n t la e IIslands o PPoets

JANE GIBB — Nan Hatch We cruise in the Grenadines. It’s my belief my It’s cruise in the Grenadines. We reef! of every conjugal knowledge have We them all well, know we Union Island, End, World’s that is easy to tell. us, like really And they want us to leave, don’t grasp at our bottom, They up their sleeve! have trick that they And use every abated, has never adventure Our lust for in our eighties, now still sail the Grenadines We a dream. was but when development And recall he cannot it seems When man sees perfection, not let it be, he will as it is, Let it stay to see I am glad I was able But Lord and the lazy old ways Those deserted coves, days! wonderful were The old PSV — they a thrill can still feel it, still love we And today still We or moonlight. see crimson sunsets, When we and clear, Exult in an ocean so turquoise just to be near the thrill simply Still feel spectacular views, perfection, This planet’s need some news! the Compass when we always And there’s Untitled

— Vanessa Simmons

No tourists will come today; No tourists will come islands this time of year the are for the locals, with big rum bellies from teeth sucking goat meat after noonday meals. the T-shirts Nobody here to buy square wind, sailing the market Quashie straining to hear Miss gossip to Queenie, and her week-old since then, as nothing happen so what to do? Taxi drivers doze in afternoon heat, lunch weighing heavy under almond trees. Restaurant workers meditate on stillness, their only customers shooed and flapped with hand and cloth with an energy inspired by long-dead gods. Fishermen and lobstermen stay home and fix up old cars, play the radio loud and lime like young boys while under the sea populations boom. The beaches are quiet and bare (like bank accounts this time of year) because locals only take sea-baths early mornings, Sundays and holidays, and too-besides, is only white people who need a tan. Only the rumshop keepers have business on their stools, and is rum and coke with ice — save the beers for the tourists and the tourist season when they come back and the locals have to drink on the run. OFF SEASON OFF SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

Lesser Antillesin Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Cuba Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic www.freecruisingguides.com The BestStoriesfrom CaribbeanCompass The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine, The SpiceNecklace,says,“Givenanewlifebeyondthemagazine, CRUISING GUIDES is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more than is acollectionof49outstandingstoriesselectedfrommorethan Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes and Ann Vanderhoof,authorofAnEmbarrassmentMangoesand

Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass Cruising Life:TheBestStoriesfromCaribbeanCompass Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked — Beyond itsentertainment—thefirstpiecehadmehooked Compliments of: the pieces in this collection resonate and sparkle the piecesinthiscollectionresonateandsparkle Read apreviewandorder in a very different way, offering new pleasures. in averydifferentway,offeringnewpleasures. Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com, Now availableasaneBookatAmazon.com, the collection is sure to spark ideas in both the collectionissuretosparkideasinboth cruising sailorsandarmchairdreamers.” 200 issuesof www.marinazarpar.com atwww.amazon.com! FREE US$8.95 Caribbean Compass Marina Cruising Life 3 volumes Zar-Par . now BOOK REVIEWBYBOBBERLINGHOF parsons andcalled meawaysaying:“You’re losing yourreputation.” cess ofeating. Once theadministrator’swife caughtmechattingwithtwo Methodist at mostparties,therewasrigid segregationofthesexesexceptduringactualpro- name termsinDominica.Itmakes itsoawkwardwhenwequarrel.”…Atpicnics,as should callmebymyfirstname, sheanswered:“WeareagainstbeingonChristian though inarace,scissorsopen, eachhopingtoasserttheirrankbycuttingthetapefirst. formally opened,theserepresentatives ofbigbusinessandthestateranforwardas manager andtheotherof magistrate anddistrictofficer.Whenalocalbridgewas case offemalejealousyinthematter ofprecedence,oneladybeingthewifeaplantation neighborhood ofPortsmouthandthesewererigidlynotonspeaking terms.Thiswasa easily dissipatedintheopenair.Twowhitecouples,andtwo only,werelivinginthe not onfriendlytermswitheachother,andthemiasmaofillfeeling wasdoubtlessmore which oneneverdrinkscocktails,wasbyelaboratepicnic.The fewwhitefamilieswere elected), becomingthefirstwomantositinParliament WestIndies. honored tohavebeenaskedassumethoseresponsibilities (forwhichshewaslater became amemberoftheColonialLegislature,andwhenhe died,in1940,shewas an earlyenvironmentalistconcernedwithsavingtheforests. HusbandLennox articles forthe did haveatypewriterandshewrotetwomemoirsofAustralia, anovel,andmany radio orelectricityinherhome.Whenthesunwentdown, lampswerelit.Butshe the ColonialServicewivesinRoseau.Shewasacountrygirl whoeschewedhavinga but thoughshehadservants,neverlivedthewhite-gloved teapartyexistenceof them SomersetMaugham,NoelCoward,PatrickLeighFermorandPrincessMargaret, Lennox Honychurch). and daughterPatricia(whowouldonedaygivebirthtotherenownedhistorian land andbuiltLennox’sdreamhousenearby,undeterredbyayoungson,Michael, es closeathand—onewithblacksand,theotherwhite.Beforelongtheybought Knapp nearCalibishie,withviewsofGuadeloupeandMarieGalantetwobeach- mountain streams. first timetheunhappynoteofsiffleurmontagne;andfordedagainswift Atlantic spray;rodethroughdeepforest,silentsaveforthecallofbirds;heard days weclimbedprecipitousridgesorfollowedredclaytrackswithinreachofthe way ofacratercalledtheFreshwaterLaketodistinguishitfromBoilingLake.For horseback hiringquadrupedsfromthebarber,crossingbackboneofislandby people weshouldhavehadaverydulltime. the rulingwhitecolonials, ments faithfully,andadmitsthat,despitesegregationofthesexesracesby out eventakingtimetounpack. lured somepeopletostayinDominicaforever,andfromwhichothershavefledwith- beauty. Ithasneverbeeneasytoanalyse,definethemysteriouscharmthat Sadness anddecay,aflavorofold,unhappyfaroffthings,underlaytheisland’s capital, afterfirsttravelingforhoursalongmuddytracks.Theauthorcontends: in thenorthofislandhadtocatchaferryfromPortsmouthgetRoseau, any otherfallinginlove.” first sight,aninfatuationwithouttangiblerhymeorreason,yetnomoreirrationalthan Caribbean cruise—takenonaccountofLennox’sfragilehealthand“fellinloveat neighbor onDominica’snortheastcoast). many post-Gauguinartists(oneofwhom—HollyKnappwouldbecometheir her secondhusband.HehadtraveledtheSouthPacificandrubbedshoulderswith her ownadulteryanddivorce. scandals: thesocialostracismofheraristocraticfatherfromEdwardiancourt,and danced withthefutureEdwardVIII.Moresignificantly,shehademergedfromtwo Scottish highlands,livedintheAustralianoutback,visitedSouthSeas,and talented andfearlesswomanhadspentherchildhoodonagrandestateinthe that theauthorwasofScottisharistocracy,buttaintedbytwinscandals. On anotheroccasion,shewrites, Social intercourseintheNortherndistrict,beforeinvention ofthecocktailpartyat Shewriteswithwickedwitaboutherwhiteneighbors. Over theyearsElmaentertainedmanyinfluentialartistsandaristocrats,among The authorandherhusbandsettledinanArawak-stylehutbelongingtoHolly The islandbecamealandofwondertothenewcomers. Though poor,theislanderspossessedarichCreoleculture,whichElmadocu- The islandwasdesperatelypoorandneglectedbythecolonialauthorities.Those Lennox Napier,anEnglishmanshemetandfellinlovewithAustralia,became By thetimeshearrivedinDominicawithherhusbandandchildren1932,this Manchester Guardian A LoveSong to Dominica if wehadnotdancedanddinedlaughedwithcoloured When Isuggestedtooneofour neighborsthatshe . Shewaswellacquaintedwithpoliticsand The couplehad“discovered”Dominicaona Introduction byPollyPatulla,welearn apex ofrespectability.Inthewell-written the ColonialLegislativeCouncil— became thefirstwomantobeelected life, sheworkedextremelyhardand rounding her.Thoughsheleda“Bohemian” workers, neighbors,andthewonderssur- and theutmostappreciationofherfriends, of self-pity,onlyresolutedetermination great distances,butthereisneverasense and rudimentaryamenities,walked Arawak openhutwithmud,cockroaches, their homewasbeingbuilt,shelivedinan tuberculosis inonlyeightyears.While ing husbandwhowouldsuccumbto Dominica withayoungfamilyandanail- sharp senseofhumor.Shemovedto with lucidity,akeenwit,andrazor- ates everypassage.ElmaNapierwrote island penetrateshermarrowandperme- death in1973.Thestunningbeautyofthe author movedin1932andliveduntilher to theislandofDominica,where and Index.ISBN:9780953222445. 260 pageswithphotos,plusIntroduction Napier, ©2009,PapillotePress,nonfiction, Life intheColonialCaribbean There ismuchtoloveinthissong Black andWhiteSands,ABohemian —Continued on nextpage We madeexcursionson , byElma SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

Other guides are best for shore-side information & are provided to the charter & anchorages what harbours so fleets they do include are more crowded. Street’s pilots include: south east & east coast Grenada, the south & east coast of eastcoasts of& the Can- Carriacou, nouan & Martinique. These are not cov- ered by other guides but Street considers Caribbean the eastern best in the them Venezuelanow is no longer safe. The perfect pilotage companion for all the other guides at any of these locations (advertisers in Order online online Order USA/Caribbean: iUniverse or Amazon (search Donald M. Street) UK/Europe: www.imray.com Street) Don (search: ): bold Caribbean Compass Readers! When in Colombia and Panama, pick up your free PICK UP! Compass The best anchorages are only Marina Santa Marta Bocas Del Toro Yacht Club & Marina in Don Street’s Caribbean pilots Inter-island and harbour pilotage information Tidal anchorages Caribbean eastern All Ahoy, When cruising the Caribbean be sure sure be Caribbean the cruising When as board on guides Street’s have to Only PILOT. primary Street has: your x x x Street’s pilotage information is time- a is quiet and night’s key your to less sleep in unspoilt anchorages!

this issue appear in monthly copy of the

COLOMBIA PANAMA Red Frog Marina Shelter Bay Marina

. Dominica is the written in dialect, is , it does come out soft and Force Ripe, Beta is right there with the best of is right there with , daughter, only when Mammy wanted Beti Grenadian born and bred Cindy McKenzie’sGrenadian born and debut novels written, Among the amazing wrote in my signed As the author herself The political climate of the book thun- The author also gives readers an insight debut novel, which she has created aa work of fiction in child abuse.true-to-life scene of Force Ripe book. It is a touching them. It is an important up to society, showing tale. It is a mirror held and how they suffer what is done to children, and indifference of by the cold heartedness and caregivers. both family members it breathes life into the copy, “The Reading, find themselves quickly story.” And readers protagonist/narrator immersed in the book’s Lee’s story from the time she was three years old to her mid-teen years. ders at the end of the Eric Gairy gover- who nance and when Maurice Bishop, from overthrows Gairy, in turn is removed power and executed. way into the Rastafarian movement and their her of life, which Lee experienced when father, who was in the army that overthrew born with the instincts of a gentleman but very seldom . And when she say come Beta She also relates the foibles of locals with equal élan — the supersti- , by Cindy McKenzie, Published by Cindy McKenzie 2015, fiction, 314 pages by Cindy McKenzie 2015, McKenzie, Published , by Cindy is about one child’s desire for a loving home, which, as McKenzie, with is son in Hindi. Lee was called LEE’S STORY LEE’S described by a friend as Beta , Continued from previous page … Book Review Force Ripe Lee experiences one ordeal after the other, until she is finally vindicated. Her Lee experiences one ordeal after the other, until she is finally vindicated. Her “Ah TELLIN me mother! Ah tellin me mother!” a Lee’s mother goes away again and her father takes the children with him to live “AH tellin me mother! AH TELLIN me mother! AH TELLIN ME MOTHER!” It make “AH tellin me mother! AH TELLIN me mother! AH TELLIN ME MOTHER!” It make “Me eyes turn to fire and I give her one cut-eye; I sure it burn up she fudge skin, “Me eyes turn to fire and I give her one cut-eye; I sure it burn up she fudge skin, Eventually, Lee’s mother returns from Aruba and her parents get married in lavish Eventually, Lee’s mother returns from Aruba and her parents get married in lavish When Mammy has to spend a night away from home, she sends for Ken, who helps When Mammy has to spend a night away from home, she sends for Ken, who helps Reading about the modernization of Dominica after the war is quaint indeed. Her Reading about the modernization of Dominica after the war is quaint indeed. Her Her wit and wisdom shine throughout. There was the island Administrator, Andrew Women talked servants and cake while men discussed politics and planting. (Once, Women talked servants and cake while men discussed politics and planting. (Once, “Mammy spit out Peeya so hard, some of she food pitch out from she mouth with “Mammy spit out Peeya so hard, some of For Lee, the highlight of life with Mammy was when her father, whom she adored, For Lee, the highlight of life with Mammy From the very beginning Lee was aware of Mammy’s preference for Rally, and dis- From the very beginning Lee was aware Lee begins her tale at the age of three with “first memories”. Her bus driver father Lee begins her tale at the age of three with Reading Lee’s story we learn some of her family background, her sexual abuse and Reading Lee’s story we learn some of her ISBN-13: 978 1517069681, ISBN-10: 1517069688. 1517069681, ISBN-10: ISBN-13: 978 Force Ripe mother, Gloria (who is seldom called by her name in the story, as is Lee’s father, mother, Gloria (who is seldom called by her name in the story, as is Lee’s father, except for his Rasta name) tells off Mammy in no uncertain terms about her treat- in ment of Lee, when she returns home for good and takes Lee to live with her Mammy and Papa’s home. Rally comes and goes as he pleases. her superb attention to detail, shows is not easy for Lee to attain. But “Lee’s journey continues…” as the author’s last words in the novel suggest. life roaming the hills, and smoking ganja. Her father is now I-Trad; Rally, I-Rally; life roaming the hills, and smoking ganja. Her father is now I-Trad; Rally, I-Rally; and Lee, whom her father used to call “little princess”, is now I-Lee. me jump up. And stamp up. Daddy try to hold me but I fling meself flat down on the me jump up. And stamp up. Daddy try to hold me but I fling meself flat down on floor. I roll. I bawl. and melt up she Glow Spread voice. And if cut-eye could kill, she dead dead! style. They live in a little house next to Mammy and the family is happily united for style. They live in a little house next to Mammy and the family is happily united a while, until her father starts his womanizing ways. One day Lee sees another woman coming out of her mother’s bedroom and she has a meltdown. Mammy and Papa sometimes, to stay the night in the house with Papa and the two Mammy and Papa sometimes, to stay the night in the house with Papa and the children. That night Lee experiences her first shame. Lee to do something special for her. island where the impossible always happens, and the inevitable never takes place tireless lobbying in the Legislature helped connect the north and south of the island tireless lobbying in the Legislature helped connect the north and south of the island the with a paved road, a huge accomplishment now taken for granted. But through of depredations of the Second World War or even through bouts of malaria, her love an nature and of the island itself never waver. This is a truly remarkable memoir of amazing woman, a worthwhile read for island lovers everywhere, for nature lovers, now feminists, and history buffs, describing in loving detail several eras that have long passed. Green I asked why, in the West Indies, persons practicing agriculture were always called I asked why, in the West Indies, persons practicing agriculture were always called “planters” and was told: “because they plant and never reap.”) giving way to them. tions and folklore that complicated their lives are chronicled lovingly. — it. I don’t even know what Peeya mean. I used to wonder if it is somebody who does it. I don’t even know what Peeya mean. I used to wonder if it is somebody who that. pee in bed. But I does not pee in me bed. Mammy never call Rally names like She does call him came to visit her and her brother, announcing his arrival with his special whistle. came to visit her and her brother, announcing does leave anything I doing and run full “Me special whistle,” as Lee called it, “I chagrin, who shouted, “Eh eh! What taking speed,” much to her great-grandmother’s you so, Peeya!” like for her. does not come home so much and her mother goes to work in Aruba, leaving Lee and does not come home so much and her mother Mammy, and her husband, Papa, who Rally in the care of their great-grandmother, Lee any real kindness. is one of the too few persons who show shame, and, the hypocrisy of those charged with caring for her. We learn about her shame, and, the hypocrisy of those charged too what Lee wanted most of all was for life in the ghetto, school days, and we learn happy family life with attendant mother and her brother, Rally, and herself to have a were too few, and too long apart. father. The times they spent all together Prime Minister Gairy, said, “After Rasta pick up gun and fight for the Revolution, Prime Minister Gairy, said, “After Rasta the army,” and became a Rasta man. now they turn against Rasta. So he leave nice.” BOOK REVIEW BY J WYNNER BY REVIEW BOOK SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Above thismixisasliverMoonmakingitsslowpro- Leo, willbevisiblerisingshortlybeforesunrise. the brighteststarinScorpius. in theMilkyWayisSaturnlocatednearAntares, the southwesttonortheast.Amongthosestars stars thatmarksthegalacticplaneextendsfrom the MilkyWaystretchingoverhead.Thisbandof lation Virgo.Ifthenightskyisclearyouwillfind ball ofgasispositionednearSpicaintheconstel- above thehorizoninwesternsky.Thisgiant more than1,000asteroidsdiscoveredin2017. we maynotseeitcoming.Sofartherehavebeen asteroids changeor,liketheasteroidoverRussia, miss thepotentialforanimpactbutorbitsof orbital pathsareunknown.Itmaybeeasytodis- about 20metreswide. people anddamagingover7,000buildings,was Chelyabinsk inFebruary2013,injuring1,500 meteor thatexplodedovertheRussiancityof (2.85 km)and2,650feet(806metres)deep.The ters). Theresultingcraterwouldbe1.77mileswide could befeltatadistanceof311miles(500kilome- (595 kilometersperhour).Effectsofthisimpact maximum windspeedwouldbe370milesperhour miles (16km)fromimpactwouldbesetonfire.The with third-degreeburns.Everythingelseuptoten and animalsthatsurvivedimpactwouldbecovered would appear28timeslargerthantheSun.People Within 3.1miles(5km),theapproachingasteroid would resultinasignificantamountofdamage. 41,000 milesperhour(66,000kilometershour) Caribbean. Actually,thatasteroidtravelingat ic viewoftheeffectsanasteroidimpactin com/online/june16compass_online.pdf Compass Look backattheJune2016issueof a bigdealandnothreatbecauseitwassosmall. mation containedinthee-mail.Oneresponseclaimedanasteroidthatsizewasnot approaching Earth.WhilehavingaconversationwithfriendsImentionedtheinfor- asteroids andtheirorbitalpathsthatcanpotentiallythreatenourplanet? safely passby?Willyoutrusttheconclusionsofscientistswhofindandanalyze toMid-October Mid-September The Skyfrom Venus, Mars, Mercury and Regulus, the heart of Venus, Mars,MercuryandRegulus,theheartof Sunday, September17th After duskJupiterwillbeshiningbrightlyjust Saturday, September16th New asteroidsarediscoveredeverydayandtheir I receivedane-mailthatreadasteroid246feet(75metres)indiameterwas An asteroidisapproaching.WillitimpactEarth?Orwillbeacloseapproachand BOAT PAINT&STUFF [ page 34atwww.caribbeancompass. Epoxy primer+Polyurethane TopCoat Fiberglass +Epoxy &PolyesterResins Time OutBoatYardSaintMartin Phone: +(590)690221 676 [email protected] www.boatpaintstuff.com Next totheFrenchBridge by JimUlik ] foragraph- Caribbean THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST PPG Amron Astronomers didnotseethismeteorracingtowardsRussiauntilitexplodednearChelyabinsk Permanent Antifouling (10 yearsandmore…)

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constellation Ophiuchus. there isaconjunctionbetweentheMoonandSaturn.Theyarebothlocatedin above thewesternhorizon.ThatobjectisJupiter.Lookinghigherintonightsky beneath thepointwhichliesduewest. Sun willappeartorisefromthepointonhorizonthatliesdueeast,andset Autumnal equinox.Forusinthenorthernhemisphereitisfirstdayoffall.The Earth’s equatorat1602hours.ThatisthemomentthatmarksSeptemberor maximum rateofmeteorsexpectedisaroundfiveperhour. These celestialobjectswillsetquicklyandonlybevisibleforafewminutes. Among thisgroupingisafaintsliverMoonthatjustpassedtheNewphase. above thehorizon.ThismorningMercurywillbebrighteroftwoplanets. and Mercury.MercuryMarsappearveryclosealmostindistinguishablejust gression eastward.TomorrowmorningtheMoonwillbelocatedrightbetweenVenus • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings As youwatchthesunsetthiseveningwillseeanobjectgraduallybrighten Tuesday, September26th The Sunwillcrossthecelestialequatororimaginarylineinskyabove Friday, September22nd The Piscidsmeteorshowerwillreachitsmaximumrateofactivitytonight. Jupiter andSpicawillbelowinthewesternskyimmediatelyfollowingsunset. Thursday, September21st Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Tel: 809523 5858VHFChannel 5 THE FOCALPOINTFORCRUISINGYACHTSMENT &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinafor clearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity Dominican Republic —Continued onnextpage 69.36.67W 18.25.50N — Continued from previous page Saturday, September 30th It’s Astronomy Day! Astronomy Day is a worldwide event observed each spring and fall. Check any local astronomical soci- eties such as the Sociedad de Astronomia del Caribe in Puerto Rico, the Cayman Islands Astronomical Society or Barbados Astronomy for available programs. Wednesday, October 4th The United Nations General Assembly declares October 4th to 10th World Space Week “to celebrate each year at the international level the contributions of space science and technology to the betterment of the human condition.” The theme for 2017 is “Exploring New Worlds in Space”. The mission of the World Space Week Association (WSWA) is to strengthen the link between space and society through public education, participation, and dialogue on the future of space activity using World Space Week as a focus. Thursday, October 5th This morning a conjunction between Mars and Venus will shine brightly in the east. Both planets are illuminated nearly 100 percent. The planets are nearly in line so they may appear as one. Tonight there will be a Full Moon rising at 1807. Sunday, October 8th Tonight is the peak of the Draconids meteor shower. Even though the Moon is a few days past full it will unfortunately rise relatively early, masking many of the shooting stars. Keep an eye out for any meteors before the Moon gets too high overhead. The volume of meteors is variable but numbers could reach more than 700 per hour. Radar observations detected up to 1,000 meteors per hour in 2012. These slow-moving meteors will radiate out of the north from the constellation Draco. The meteor shower will be active from October 6th through October 10th. When the Moon becomes a prominent feature take a look Above: Conjunction of celestial bodies on September 17th at 0530 hours around that area of sky. Antares and the Seven Sisters can be found nearby. Below: The path of asteroid 2012 TC4 with its close approach location on October 14th Thursday, October 12th The orbit of asteroid 2012 TC4 is still being calculated. There is some difficulty in determining the orbit because the asteroid has SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 been out of range of telescopes since its discovery in 2012. What is known is that the orbit of the asteroid does intersect with Earth’s orbit. However, follow-up observations are necessary to assess the risk of impact. Even though scientists cannot yet pre- dict exactly how close it will get, they are certain it will come no closer than 4,200 miles (6,800 kilometers) from the surface of Earth. For reference, satellites in a geosynchronous orbit are at an altitude of approximately 22,236 miles (35,786 kilometers) above mean sea level. The asteroid is estimated to be no larger than 100 feet (30 metres) in diameter. In the News Calculations of asteroid 2012 TC4’s orbit were determined with only seven days of observation. It has been too distant and too faint to be detected over the last five years. The worldwide asteroid detection and tracking network will use this asteroid to assess their ability to work together in finding a potential real asteroid threat. This network is comprised of more than a dozen observatories, universities and labs across the globe. This will also assist NASA’s preparedness drills rehearsing various aspects of an asteroid impact, such as deflection, evacuation and disaster relief.

All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The times are based on a viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few minutes in different Caribbean locations.

Jim Ulik of S/V Merengue is a photographer and cruiser.

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9°20’.05”N, 82°14’.45”W SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 lime juice.Keytodressingtaste:sweet,spicy,sour,andsalty. leaves andgreenbeans. Pour dressingoverandtoss.Serveeachplatewithasprinkleofpeanuts,cilantro and addremainingingredientsexceptforpeanuts,cilantroleavesgreenbeans. 5 minutes.Rinseundercoldwaterandsetasideforgarnish. them inhotwatertosoftenthem,thenslicethem) that theyarequick,easyandhealthy,havebrilliantcolor,tasteyummy! you mightenjoyanice-coldbeertoputoutthefire.Thejoyinmakingthesedishesis time. Youcandrinkhotgreenteawiththesedishes,butsincetheyaresomewhatspicy, our senses.Belowaretwosuper-easyandsuper-beautifulrecipesyoucanmakeany cooking techniques.Thishasbeenanamazingadventureanddefinitelyfilledallof variety ofAsianstreetdisheswhenwegetbackaboard EAST MEETSWESTABOARD Ultra’s Carib-AsianCuisine: Note: Sweetnessforthissaladbalancesoutthesharpnessofpapayaand Using juliennepeeler,peelenoughpapayatomeasure6Cups.Placeinlargebowl Place beansinmediumsaucepanofveryhotsaltedwateruntilcrisp-tender,about Whisk firstfiveingredientstogetherinmediumbowl.Setthisdressingaside. 1 Cupchoppedfreshcilantroorculantro 3 Tablespoonscoarselychoppedroastedpeanuts 1 freshredThaichiliwithseeds,thinlysliced(ifyouareusingdriedchilis,soak 2 tomatoes,quartered 1 mediumgreenpapaya(ormangos),peeled,halvedandseeded 2 mediumcarrots,grated 1 mediumcucumber,cutintomatchstick-likepieces 3 greenonions,slicedintomatchstick-likepieces 12 greenbeans,cutinto2-inchpieces 4 garliccloves,minced 2 tablespoonsplusteaspoonsfishsauceorsoy 3 Tablespoons(packed)goldenbrownsugar 1/2 Cupfinelychoppedfreshbasil 5 Tablespoonsfreshlimejuice Prep time15minutes.Serves6. Ultra GreenPapayaSalad While hereinAsia,wetookcookingclassestolearnmoreoftheSoutheastAsian by BillandJoAnneHarris COMING SOON! That’s greatnews—wecanmakea we haveathomeintheCaribbean. in Asiaaresomeoftheverysame the ingredientsweareseeinghere sine. Thebestpartisthatmostof between AsianandCaribbeancui- have noticedmanysimilarities and travelingthroughAsia recipes onourguests? have apartythantopracticefun masterpiece. Whatbetterwayto ents canactuallycreateafusion creative. Thesubstitutionofingredi- with theflowandnotbeafraidto to rememberinthegalleyisgo the next.Themostimportantthing moment andpracticallynon-existent gies. Theycanbeplentifulone lenges toobtainfreshfruitsandveg- Caribbean, thereareconstantchal- and more. ties, too:Sushi,Tex-Mex,Lionfish our boat,wehostlotsofthemepar- Caribbean cruisinglifestyle.Aboard easy transitiontothefull-time Our passionforpartiesmadean aboard ourcruisingtrimaran, We arecurrentlytakingabreak When livingaboardinthe We havealwayslovedtoentertain PRODUCE MEAT FRESH YOUR FOR STORE Ultra ! & Ultra . Master licenses.Checkouttheir and topwithcilantroorculantroleaves. chilis andchilisauceforTomYum.Whencookedthrough,pourintoservingbowls until itiscooked. galangal (orfreshgingerroot),andlemongrass.Whenboiling,addseafoodwait www.jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com YACHTULTRA1 toseevideosoftheiradventures.Theirblogis works wellinbothplaces culinary inspirationthat visited Thailandfor cruise, JoAnneandBill open-ended Caribbean Taking abreakfromtheir JoAnne andBillHarrisarefromClearLake,Texasbothhold100-tonUSCG We lookforwardtomakingmoreofthefunrecipeswehavelearnedalongway. Add mushroomsandtomato.limejuice,fishorsoysauce,lightbrownsugar, Place thecoconutmilkinapotoverhighheat.Addkaffirleaves(orlimezest), 1 smallbunchcilantroorculantro 1 teaspoonroastedchilipasteforTomYum,orsauce 2 wholefreshredchilis(ifusingdried,soakinhotwatertosoften) 1 teaspoonlightbrownsugar 1 Tablespoonfishsauceorsoy 1 Tablespoonfreshlimejuice 1 tomato,quartered 2 ouncesdriedstrawmushrooms/oystermushrooms raw seafood(shrimp,squid,octopus,conch,fish,etc.) 1 leaflemongrass,sliceddiagonally 2 slicesgalangalorfreshgingerroot 3 Kaffirlimeleavesor11/2teaspoonsoffinelychoppedzest 1 Cupcoconutmilk Prep time30minutes.Serves6 Ultra CoconutMilkSoup(TomYum) [email protected] Mobile: 1(473)417-7995 Fax: 1(473)443-7995 Tel: 1(473)443-7994 Tyrrel Bay, HarveyVale CARRIACOU Yacht Ultra videosontheYouTubechannel SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 : is available The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass Read in Dinghy Security for Caribbean Cruisers free online, just drop a note to on the list — it’s as easy as that! Compass … and much, much more! If you’d like to receive notification by e-mail Enjoying Conch Sustainably HEY, READERS! [email protected] and we’ll put you when each month’s new Next Month’s Next Month’s Another Opinion on Anchoring Stock Up the on the widest selection and our two best prices in Grenada at conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd.

Ciboney Ciboney just sat on the Ciboney by Arthur English . Ciboney after the old boat. sitting accusingly sitting accusingly the boat, will seek out a new owner. The memories Ciboney Ciboney found a new owner more than the buyer sought out a boat. Ciboney Ciboney WHAT’S ON MY MIND MY ON WHAT’S after the supposed first inhabitants of the West Indies. She was perfect for a family after the supposed first inhabitants of the and off on a new adventure’ and off on a new Ciboney

at anchor off Pinney’s Beach. Almost every day we went to the construction site to check on at anchor off Pinney’s Beach. Almost every day we went to the construction site on her mooring, bobbing her head on her mooring,

Ciboney with an anxious desire to be underway to be underway with an anxious desire ‘We could see could ‘We

ANCHOR ANCHOR IN NEVIS SWALLOWING THE THE SWALLOWING When we moved off the boat into the house things changed. Living aboard spoils you for just “using” a boat, When we moved off the boat into the house things changed. Living aboard spoils We visited lots of islands and with each one Judy would say, “I think I could live here when we stop sailing.” But We visited lots of islands and with each one Judy would say, “I think I could live For the next few years we continued to sail in the Chesapeake, with one trip to Bermuda. On that trip For the next few years we continued to The sale happened quickly. Perhaps We retired, sold our house and everything in it, and became full time liveaboards in 2001. In the fall of that year, We retired, sold our house and everything and we were getting older. All We told ourselves we were getting tired of sailing. It was becoming too much work We visited the factory — this time, in Texas. We swore we would not agree to have a boat built on that trip. We We visited the factory — this time, in Texas. is at hand. This time it is about Like our decision to leave St. Maarten so many years ago the time to leave Nevis We named the boat at the boat show in Atlantic City, New Jersey, I went aboard the Valiant Then it happened. In the winter of 1994 always be prepared to let One lesson from all this is that whenever you reach out for a dream you should The island life was over but we held on to a piece of the lifestyle with a new dream when we had a 30-foot lifestyle with a new dream when we had over but we held on to a piece of the The island life was Dreams are fleeting but memories always remain. Our first big dream was to live and work in the Caribbean. My big dream was to live and work in the Caribbean. but memories always remain. Our first Dreams are fleeting especially in a place like Nevis with no marinas. We had a great mooring; you could see the boat from our pool especially in a place like Nevis with no marinas. We had a great mooring; you to get the boat ready when we deck. We even had use of a carport on the beach for our dinghy. But now we had and more wanted to go somewhere. When you live aboard, the boat is always ready. More progress. There was no heady smell of resin but we were lucky enough to have our son Andy, who is in the busi- progress. There was no heady smell of resin but we were lucky enough to have to do the tile and granite work ness in Wilmington, North Carolina, bring down a work crew and all the materials bit as exciting as seeing custom in the house. Watching the stone being fabricated and polished on site was every boat furniture being fitted. Nevis became our favorite. One year, somewhat to our surprise, we bought some land. The next year we built a Nevis became our favorite. One year, somewhat to our surprise, we bought some the house was being built we house. Maybe we were reliving our St. Maarten experience of 30 years before. While lived aboard spent a lot of time in St. Maarten. It had changed beyond imagination since we used to live there. Each year we spent a lot of time in St. Maarten. It had changed beyond imagination since we stopped in Nevis. right after 9/11, we joined the Caribbean 1500 rally and headed for the BVI. We cruised in the Eastern Caribbean right after 9/11, we joined the Caribbean in the Chesapeake some years, were on the hard in Grenada for for six years. We spent hurricane seasons was in the water at Crews Inn in Trinidad, then back to Grenada. We Hurricane Ivan in 2004, the next summer so much. It was our dream and of that was true but it was also a rationalization for the guilt. We loved that boat an old dream. We were once again we had been fortunate to have lived it. Now we had a new dream that was also guilt. We sold the boat. living on an island in the West Indies. There was only one way to deal with the would think about it for a while. We were true to our word. As soon as we got back to New Jersey we called up, would think about it for a while. We were We went to Texas to check on progress. The smell of resin as they laid up said “yes” and put a check in the mail. the new boat the fiberglass was wonderful. We named told us where she wanted to be. sit well. They do so much better mooring and we could not stand seeing her just sitting there. No boat seems to house that we loved on an island when they are moving. An idle boat is the definition of entropy. We had a new every day we could see similar in size and population to the St. Maarten we knew 30 years before. And to be underway and off on a new sitting accusingly on her mooring, bobbing her head with an anxious desire adventure. But we were having a new adventure without her. for our children. Sometime, health care and convenience for us. The last time it was education and opportunity hopefully soon, “Ciboney’s Retreat” the house, like 42. It was devastating. It was like the Seidelmann on steroids and to me it was beautiful. With the Seidelmann I 42. It was devastating. It was like the Seidelmann Bay. Now I dreamed of the ocean, open water, off shore. We had been never wanted to go beyond the Chesapeake happy, now what? A new dream. name of our house is Ciboney’s it go. So it is that for seven years now we have been living in Nevis. The the view from the anchorage. We Retreat. Although it is only a dot on the mountainside our house is part of and the lights from Basseterre still see the sun setting in the Caribbean Sea with an occasional green flash and monkeys (so we don’t at night. At 600 feet it is a bit cooler than sea level. We have mangos and bananas dinghy ride. This next dream is have the mangos and bananas very long.) Provisioning no longer involves a will soon have the next anchor as wonderful as the last. But like in the last dream we are getting older and house in paradise. The house is to swallow and hopefully the next dream to pursue. So we are selling our Selling a house is nothing listed with a realtor. There are pictures on the internet. All of it is a bit strange. like selling a boat. Seidelmann sailboat built in 1984. Every week we would drive down to the factory in Berlin, New Jersey, to look down to the factory in Berlin, New built in 1984. Every week we would drive Seidelmann sailboat of resin as they laid up the fiberglass hull was wonderful. Watching the for real or imagined progress. The smell fastened to knees that were glassed to the hull, hand-pouring the lead construction was such a treat. Chainplates coin donated by Frit Cherubini placed under the mast as it was stepped for the fin keel, building the furniture, a the Delaware River through the C&D Canal into the Chesapeake, it to the keel, a first sail from Riverside down was all magic. Bay. But the best thing about that boat was that it was the only of four to cruise on weekends in the Chesapeake great complacency. There were bigger, newer, faster and even more beau- boat I wanted. I went to boat shows with but none that I loved like tiful boats to be crawled over and admired, wife, Judy, and I managed to do that in St. Maarten in the 1970s. But the dream changed, or at least we did. As 1970s. But the dream changed, or at least to do that in St. Maarten in the wife, Judy, and I managed to come up wished for them would better allow them it was time to leave. The education we our children got older and not saddle them with ours. with their own dreams remain and we continue to dream. SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Jeff Fisher –Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthecharter trade well-built sailsthatarewell suitedtothe for acompetitivequoteon rugged and Check outourwebsiteorcontact usdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, stainless steelandaluminiumitems. Engineering, fabrication and welding. Engineering, fabricationandwelding. TechNick Ltd. TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES www.midatlanticyachtservices.com - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.neilprydesails.com Fabrication andrepairof Nick Williams, Manager EU-VAT (18%)importation [email protected] Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! 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EXNER went to press — but plans change, CALENDAR Compass [email protected] Virgin’s Cup Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC, www.royalbviyc.org Public holiday in Jamaica (National Heroes’ Day) Country & Blues Music Festival, St. Lucia. Country & Blues Music Festival, St. Lucia. Start of Nereid’s Rally, T&T to the Guyanas. marinaslm.com/rally Start of Nereid’s Rally, Green Moon Music Festival, San Andres, Colombia. Green Moon Music Festival, All information was correct to the best of our knowledge name and contact information of the organizing body to

so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.

Jeff Campana Trophee, Guadeloupe, [email protected] Vieques Rally, Fajardo, Puerto Rico. BrISA E, Arts & Heritage Festival, St. Lucia. www.royalbviyc.org Back to School Regatta, Tortola. RBVIYC, BVI Aruba, https://caribbeanseajazz.com Caribbean Sea Jazz festival, Bonaire International Sailing Regatta, www.bonaireregatta.org 50th Annual Conference, Antigua, http://caribbean-sailing.com CSA World Creole Music Festival, Dominica, www.wcmfdominica.com 20th Puerto del Rey Billfish Tournament, Puerto Rico. [email protected]

BrISA, Around Culebra Race, Puerto Rico.

calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the at the time this issue of Public holiday in Curaçao (Curaçao Day), Suriname (Maroons Day) Public holiday in Belize (PanAmerican Day), Public holiday in Haiti (Anniversary of the Death of Dessalines) Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago and Guyana (Festival of Lights) Public holiday in BVI (St. Ursula’s Day) Public holiday in Grenada (Thanksgiving Day) Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (Independence Day) Foxy’s Halloween Catfight (catamaran regatta), Corn Festival, Carriacou. [email protected] Autumnal Equinox Autumnal Day) Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (Independence Public holiday in Belize (Independence Day) Public holiday in Dominican Republic (Our Lady of Mercy) Day) Public holiday in Belize (St. George’s Caye Day) Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (National Heroes’ If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly FULL MOON FULL Public holiday in St. Lucia (Thanksgiving Day) Public holiday in the Bahamas (National Heroes’ Day) FULL MOON FULL in Bonaire (Bonaire Day) Public holiday in Guyana (Eid-Ul-Azha observed) Public holiday in Suriname (Eid-Ul-Azha) Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI (Labor Day) Public holiday 5 9 10 11 - 14 and in Puerto Rico and USVI (Columbus Day) and Cuba (Independence Day) 2 12 13 - 15 14 16 and Venezuela (Indigenous Resistance Day) 17 19 20 25 27 27 – 29 27 - 29 27 - 29 28 28 – 29 www.facebook.com/pg/BrisaSailing/events 28 – 29 Jost Van Dyke, WEYC, [email protected] www.stlucia.org/summerfestival/arts-heritage-festival 29 OCTOBER 19 21 22 22 – 23 24 27 - 30 www.stlucia.org/summerfestival/country-blues-festival Tobago (Republic Day) and Trinidad & 6 10 16 16 – 17 6 1 2 2 – 4 5 SEPTEMBER www.facebook.com/pg/BrisaSailing/events 2 – 9 www.facebook.com/Green-Moon-Festival 4 SEPTEMBER 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 55’ TRIMARANHELLEMAN1993 gmail.com E-mail: cataladyanne4@ and Martinique.US$225,000. seen betweenSt.Maarten ourselves. Theboatcanbe same ownerfor22years&by tion asmaintainedbythe high speed.Inperfectcondi- Combines greatcomfort& LAGOON 47CATAMARAN1993 [email protected] 403-9622, E-mail: US$400,000. Tel:(473) St Georges,Grenada. options tolist.LyingPortLouis, on warranty,toomany Verado 300hp,<100hrs,still OUTRAGE 3703xMercury BOSTON WHALER2016 [email protected] (868) 684-7720(Luc)E-mail: One MarineSuppliesLtd.Tel: Guides. US$70,000.Marc his CaribbeanCruising by thefamousChrisDoylefor sister ships"TiKanot"owned Fast &easytosail.Oneofher weight cruisingcatamaran. 41’ ROGERSIMPSON [email protected] [email protected] 268-6865 US$79,000.E-mail: els. LyingGrenada.Tel:(868) new anchorchain,solarpan- compressor, watermaker, plotter, 6.5KWgenset,dive 5 cabins,110hpdiesel12" DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER ol fsoeSis otl 4 36 27 MP 18 Tortola MP SVG Curaçao MP Grenada Grenada 44 Dominica Doyle OffshoreSails Down IslandRealEstate 2 34 Dominica YachtServices SVG Tortola Curaçao Marine St.Maarten St.Maarten Cruising Life MP 38 Clarkes Court MP 39 Caraibes DieselServices St.Maarten 35 Captain Gourmet 11 BVI YachtSales 10 C/W Grenada Panama Budget Marine Bocas YachtClub&Marina Boat Paint&Stuff SVG Bluewater Walkabout SVG SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina Bequia PlantationHotel Barefoot YachtCharters Art Fabrik YOUR CLASSIFIED BOATS FORSALE ISON-LINE! Light Light

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e e o l l b b -w e.e.ee.ee. a r lia r d orororororor r e a mmmmm R m m m Du n H rnrnrnrnrnrnrn √ a √ √ eaeaeaeaeaee lll l TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS & Sons Sherlock Walkin Providenciales +649-946-4411 VENEZUELA A&F MAarine Center Maracaibo +261-752-9511 Alba Corporcion Valencia +241-842-1644 Engine Service Marine Caracas +212-267-9398 C.A. Protienda Barcelona +281-286-5843 VIRGIN ISLANDS U.S Marine Inc. Tropical St. Thomas +340-775-6595 oo totototototo m m m mm mmm o cococococococo e.e.e.e.e. n ininininii ararararaaar ymymymymymymymy ururururururu c rcrcrcrcrcrcr ee memmmememe w.w.w.w.ww wwwwwwwwwwwww St. BARTS MADCO St. Martin +590-590-510-540 SURINAME Sports Outdoor Tomahawk Paramaribo +597-422-682 & TOBAGO TRINIDAD Corsa Marine San Fernando +868-657-4880 SAINT LUCIA A1 Island Marine Supplies Inc. Castries +758-452-9404 SAINT MARTIN MADCO St. Martin +590-590-510-540 SAINT VINCENT & THE GRENADINES Marine Center Inc. St Vincent Kingstown +784-593-BOAT(2628) t t t tt sisisisisisi ViViViViViViV PANAMA International Chikos +507-225-6331 PUERTO RICO Marina Costa Azul Lajas +787-899-1179 Marine LLC Powerboat Baja Toa +787-510-2550 Marine Center Vita’s Aguadilla +787-691-0669 HAITI Matelec S.A. Port-au-Prince +509-2813-0829 JAMAICA and Offshore Jamaica Marine Supplies Ltd. Kingston 5 +876-383-4809 NETHERLANDS ANTILLES Boat and Fishing Paradise Aruba +297-588-1316 Caribbean Nautical Ltd. Curacao +599-9-563-7478 GRENADA Agencies Ltd. Anro St. George’s +473-444-2220 GUYANA Marine W & H Rambaran Georgetown +592-226-4523 Marine & Loisirs cedex Cayenne +594-594-35-97-97 FRENCH WEST INDIES MADCO St. Martin +590-590-510-540 Maximarine SAS Martinique +596-596-63-75-49 S.A.D Guadeloupe +590-590-269-797 DOMINICA Dominica Marine Center Inc. Roseau +767-440-BOAT(2628) DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Marina S.A. Auto Santo Domingo +809-565-6576 FRENCH GUIANA BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Service Marine Power Tortola +284-494-2738 ISLANDS CAYMAN Scotts Industries Ltd. Cayman Grand +345-949-4186

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