Epic India

Tuesday, January 26

Early wake-up this morning for travel... as usual. We had coffee as we cleaned up and finalized our packing of the luggage. This was hampered by the fact that we have internal India flights which limit weight restrictions to 15 Kg (33 Lbs). We will not be able to pack the international limit.

The flight went well and we were in San Francisco by 09:45 with time to shop the concourse and then have lunch before we met Jane after her mid-afternoon arrival. Our China Air gate was a two level gate and after I checked that she was in the terminal I still couldn't find her. She was in the upstairs lounge area rather than in the boarding area. No matter, we joined her and had a glass of wine before reporting to the passenger waiting area.

Our China Air Flight left at 13:50...

Wednesday, January 27 and arrived in Beijing at 17:55. Then we processed through the International connecting flight section which passed through immigration and a security check. Then we could make our way to the boarding area for CA 947. Our flight departed at 20:40...

Thursday, January 28 and arrived at the Indira Gandhi International Airport at 01:40. We processed through immigration with Liz and me going through the foreigner line because we had 5-year visas. Jane had a new E-visa which has been newly authorized and uses a different process. We re-met her after we collected our luggage and then went out to the passenger terminal.

We were met by Devendra Singh Guleria, our guide. As we gathered we met the others from our group of 22 people who made up or Epic India Tour. Several of the group would continue with follow-on extensions to Bhutan. Once assembled we proceeded to our bus and after the driver and bus boy loaded the luggage underneath, we boarded and took our seats.

“My name is Devendra but please call me Dav[e].” Then he describe that he has been a tour guide for seven years. He would serve as our primary guide in most instances but stated that guides are licensed for certain areas and in two of our excursions we will be in an area where he is not certified. However, he would be with us and able to clarify questions.

As we drove the 23 kilometers to our hotel we learned that we would cross a state boundary and that our bus would have to pay a nominal tax. Our bus assistant then crossed a barrier and then made

195 his way through six lanes of traffic to a small concrete building which served as the tax office. Then he negotiated his way back trough the traffic. This process would be repeated every time we passed through this state border in the next few days.

I took almost 1½ hours to make it to our hotel. We arrived at Crowne Plaza Gurgaon where the hotel staff took our collected passports from Dav and began checking us in to the hotel. Others collected our luggage and would deliver the bags to our rooms. Once the front desk finished their procedure we were issued our keys and could secure our passports before we retired to our rooms. Our luggage was soon delivered and we could partially unpack and get ready for bed. By this time it was almost four in the morning and we would next meet with Dav at ten o'clock for our first excursion.

We set our alarm to be up in time to enjoy breakfast at eight o'clock. The breakfast area featured oriental, occidental, and Indian options. We decided to sample all the Indian specialties featured. There were platters of Naan , Paratha , and Chapati (Indian bread). Then we could help ourselves to Idli (traditional breakfast in South Indian households; a savory cake made by steaming a batter of fermented black lentils and rice); Sambhar (lentil-based vegetable stew or chowder based on a broth made with tamarind); Chicken Curry (chicken stewed in an onion and tomato-based sauce, flavored with ginger, garlic, chili peppers and a variety of spices); Semiya Upma (cooked vermicelli, carrots, beans, peas, corn, mustard, curry leaves, ginger, garlic, green chillies); Chole Paneer Curry (white chickpea, paneer, tomato paste, grated onion, chopped green chilies, garlic ginger paste, clove, cinnamon, star anise and bay leaf); Allo Pyaz Paratha (whole wheat Parathas stuffed with mashed potatoes flavored with green chilies and onions); and Medu Vada (crispy fritters made with urad daal and enjoyed with sambar or chutney). Of course, we augmented the Indian dishes with fruit and even with Congee and Lamb dim sum from the oriental servings.

This would be typical of our meals, with varying levels of culinary skills as we traveled through India. We understood that buffet meals gave us choice and that al la carte meals would not be understood as we were unfamiliar with the menu listings. Overall we were quite pleased with Indian cuisine.

We boarded the bus at ten o'clock and Dav initiated a seat rotation which would allow couples to occupy the front seats and then proceed through different assignments as the week progressed. The driver and bus boy were re-introduced. They would coordinate our transportation, handle our luggage, and provide paanee (water) and other beverages as we traveled over the next eight days.

We set out for Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest markets in Old Delhi. It is located close to Old Delhi Railway Station near the Red Fort. It was built in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, and designed by his daughter Jahan Ara. The market was once divided by canals to reflect moonlight, and it remains one of India's largest wholesale markets.

196 Dav led the way through the side streets and many stalls. Food vendors, clothing, gold smiths, optometrists, dental supplies and dentists seemed to be concentrated together. I had just had a temporary crown placed on my tooth the day before we left on this trip and I was fascinated to see three blocks of dental providers and equipment shops all in one area.

Dav stopped at one stall to purchase Jelebi for us to try. This confection was supposedly introduced during the Mughal Empire (1526-1857). It is made by deep-frying a wheat flour batter in pretzel or circular shapes, which are then soaked in sugar syrup. It made me think of funnel cakes but much sweeter.

After sampling the sights of Chandni Chowk we continued on past the Red Fort. The Red Fort was the residence of the Mughal emperor of India for nearly 200 years, until 1857 (British Raj). The outer courtyard was full of people and there were stages with performers. We did not stop at this fort but continued on and re-boarded our bus to drive to Jama Masjid.

The Masjid-i Jah ān-Num ā (World-reflecting Mosque), commonly known as the Jama Masjid, is one of the largest mosques in India. Mughal emperor Shah Jahan built the Jama Masjid between 1644 and 1656. It was constructed by more than 5000 workers.

"The courtyard can accommodate 25,000 worshipers and occupies 408 square feet. The mosque is about 261 feet (80 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide. The prayer hall measures 61 meters in length and 27.5 meters in breadth. It is made up of high cusped arches and marble domes. The cabinet located in the north gate has a collection of relics of Muhammad – the Quran written on deerskin, a red beard-hair of the prophet, his sandals and his footprints implanted in a marble block."

In keeping with tradition at mosques and temples throughout India, we removed our shoes or sandals

197 before we reached the temple. The main reason is to keep the temple premises clean. In a Hindu temple, as an act of devotion and respect, people kneel down with their hands and head touching the ground (known as Panchanga Namaskaram) or prostrate by lying down on the floor (known as Sashtanga Namaskaram). One would not like to do that on a dirty floor. Also taking of shoes is a normal custom in India in not only temples but also homes. This is out of respect and also appreciating the effort taken to keep the house clean.

We had forty-five minutes to tour the mosque and reflect on 25,000 people assembled in the courtyard at one time. We were informed that we would be welcome to return tomorrow evening to observe such a gathering.

We returned to our hotel and were able to finish unpacking as we could, keeping in mind that we would be leaving the day after tomorrow. We will be living out of suitcases with frequent changes between cities so we need to keep this in mind to time our laundry needs and layer our luggage.

We were not overly hungry so we did not want a full dinner in the hotel. We met Jane in the lounge and listened to a young woman sing ABBA songs as Jane enjoyed a glass of wine and Liz and I sampled Bombay Sapphire gin and tonic. We also had some snacks as we discussed the flight to India and our first day of adventure. Then we went to our rooms to try to catch up with missed sleep.

Friday, January 29

This morning we returned to New Dehli and I noticed we passed the confinement area for the Indian Army Signal Corps. I had spoken to Dev earlier and he told me his father was a Signal Corps major and because of that their family lived in many areas because of various postings throughout the country. His family was originally from Kashmir but now reside in Jaipur, Rajasthan.

As we drove Dev talked a little about India's history and the Mughal Empire because we would see many architectural examples of their influence over the next few days.

The Mughal Empire was an empire established and ruled by a Muslim Persianate dynasty of Turco-Mongol origin that extended over large parts of the Indian subcontinent and Afghanistan.

The beginning of the empire is conventionally dated to the founder Babur's victory over Ibrahim Lodi, the last ruler of the Delhi Sultanate in the First Battle of Panipat (1526). The Mughal emperors were Central Asian Turco-Mongols belonging to the Timurid dynasty, who claimed direct descent from both Genghis Khan (founder of the Mongol Empire, through his son Chagatai Khan) and Timur (Turco-Mongol conqueror who founded the Timurid Empire). During the reign of Humayun, the successor of Babur, the empire was briefly interrupted by the Sur Empire. The "classic period" of the Mughal Empire started in 1556 with the ascension of Akbar the Great to the throne. Under the rule of Akbar and his son Jahangir, the region enjoyed economic progress as well as religious harmony, and the monarchs were interested in local religious and cultural traditions. Akbar was a successful warrior. He also forged alliances with several Hindu Rajput kingdoms. Some Rajput kingdoms continued to pose a significant threat to the Mughal dominance of northwestern India, but most of them were subdued by Akbar. All Mughal emperors were Muslims; while Akbar was Muslim most of this life, he followed a new religion in the latter part of his life called Deen-i-Ilahi, as recorded in historical books like Ain-e-Akbari and Dabestan- e Mazaheb.

The Mughal Empire did not try to intervene in the local societies during most of its existence, but

198 rather balanced and pacified them through new administrative practices and diverse and inclusive ruling elites, leading to more systematic, centralized, and uniform rule. Newly coherent social groups in northern and western India, such as the Marathas, the Rajputs, the Pashtuns, the Hindu Jats and the Sikhs, gained military and governing ambitions during Mughal rule, which, through collaboration or adversity, gave them both recognition and military experience.

The reign of Shah Jahan, the fifth emperor (1628–58) was the golden age of Mughal architecture. He erected several large monuments, the best known of which is the Taj Mahal at Agra, as well as the Moti Masjid, Agra, the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid, Delhi, and the Lahore Fort. The Mughal Empire reached the zenith of its territorial expanse during the reign of Aurangzeb and also started its terminal decline in his reign due to Maratha military resurgence under Shivaji Bhosale. During his lifetime, victories in the south expanded the Mughal Empire to more than 3.2 million square kilometers (1.2 million square miles), ruling over more than 150 million subjects, nearly one quarter of the world's population at the time.

By the mid-18th century, the Marathas had routed Mughal armies, and won over several Mughal provinces from the Punjab to Bengal, and internal dissatisfaction arose due to the weakness of the Mughal Empire's administrative and economic systems, leading to the break-up of the empire and declaration of independence of its former provinces by the Nawab of Bengal, the Nawab of Awadh, the Nizam of Hyderabad and other small states. In 1739, the Mughals were crushingly defeated in the Battle of Karnal by the forces of Nader Shah, the founder of the Afsharid dynasty in Persia, and Delhi was sacked and looted, drastically accelerating their decline. During the following century Mughal power had become severely limited and the last emperor, Bahadur Shah II, had authority over only the city of Shahjahanabad. He issued a firman supporting the Indian Rebellion of 1857 and following the defeat was therefore tried by the British East India Company for treason, imprisoned and exiled to Rangoon. The last remnants of the empire were formally taken over by the British, and the Government of India Act 1858 let the British Crown formally assume direct control of India in the form of the new British Raj.

We drove past the India Gate but there was some sort of event taking place so Dav suggested we would be might be able to check it out more closely later.

The India Gate, (All India War Memorial), is a war memorial located astride the Rajpath, on the eastern edge of the ‘ceremonial axis’ of New Delhi, formerly called Kingsway. India gate is a memorial to 82,000 soldiers of the undivided Indian Army who died in the period 1914–21 in the First World War, in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, East Africa, Gallipoli and elsewhere in the Near and the Far East.

That put us on Rajpath (King's Way) which is the ceremonial boulevard in New Delhi. This area is the political center of India and was carefully planned by the architect Edwin Lutyens when the British decided to move the capital here from Calcutta in 1911. The avenue is lined on both sides by huge lawns, canals and rows of trees. Considered to be one of the most important roads in India, it is where the annual Republic Day parade takes place on 26 January. As we crossed the road we could see bleachers on both sides of the boulevard. These had not yet been removed from the parade three days

199 earlier. Continuing through this area we saw Embassy Row and noted the opulence of Parliament House and the Presidential Palace.

For lunch we went to the Hotel Broadway and the restaurant Chor Bizarre. We ordered Kingfisher beer and the waiter brought platters of Naan and spicy cheese to each table. Our Indian dishes were served family style. As he set down a dish he would describe the contents. I particularly enjoyed the tandoori chicken (roasted chicken prepared with yogurt and spices), and black lentil soup. For dessert we were served Gulab Jamun (a delight made with khoya (milk solids), fried golden and finally dipped in saffron induced sugar syrup and topped with almond slivers). When we told the waiter how much we enjoyed this treat he came back and added some ice cream to our dishes. It was a lovely lunch.

Our next stop of the afternoon was at Humayun’s tomb, an elaborate complex of tombs constructed in the 16th century, set within beautiful gardens as the final resting place for Humayun, the second Mughal Emperor, and members of his family. The site is a World Heritage listed by UNESCO. The tomb was commissioned by Humayun's son Akbar in 1569-70. It was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. It was also the first structure to use red sandstone at such a scale and was a key influence to the more famous Taj Mahal.

The tomb proper is constructed over a huge and elevated platform 6.5 m in height, the face of which is relieved by a series of arched openings on all four sides, except four entrance stairs, one each at the center of four sides. There are 17 arched openings on each of the four sides, and the corners are champered. The combination of the arched openings and the champered corners gives an aesthetic look to the whole monument.

200 The building medium in the Humayun’s Tomb is of three kinds of stones, viz., red sandstone, while marble and quartzite. The enclosure walls and the two gateways are constructed of local quartzite with red sandstone dressing and marble inlay. The stairs of platform of the main tomb is also dressed with quartzite. The quartzite is locally available in the ridges of Delhi, while the red sandstone came from the mines of Tantpur near Agra and white marble from the famous Makrana mines of Rajasthan.

The Humayun’s Tomb complex also houses many other prominent buildings which are examples of architecture of the period preceding and succeeding Humayun. Notable is a tomb located at the southeast corner in the garden complex. The tomb is dated to 1590-91, through an inscription found inside. The person interned in this tomb is unknown, the local name of the tomb is Barber’s Tomb (Nai ka Gumbad).

The Humayun’s Tomb is also famously associated with the tragic capture of the last of the Mughal Emperors, Bahadur Shah Zafar, along with the three princes Mirza Mughal, Mirza Khizar Sultan and Mirza Abu Bakr by Lieutenant Hodson in 1857. The Mughal Emperor along with the princes was captured by Hodson on 22 September, 1857.

Next we drove to Gurudwara Bangla Sahib,a Sikh Temple, where we had the opportunity to attend a welcome briefing.

“Sikhism is the youngest of the world religions, is barely five hundred years old. Its founder, Guru Nanak, was born in 1469. Guru Nanak spread a simple message of "Ek Ong Kar": we are all one, created by the One Creator of all Creation. This was at a time when India was being torn apart by castes, sectarianism, religious factions, and fanaticism. He aligned with no religion, and respected all religions. He expressed the reality that there is one God and many paths, and the Name of God is Truth, "SatNam".

Guru Nanak's followers were, had been, are and will ever remain seekers of nothing but TRUTH (god). He taught them to bow only before God, and to link themselves to the Guru, the Light of Truth, who lives always in direct consciousness of God, experiencing no separation. Through words and example, the Guru demonstrates to followers how to experience God within themselves, bringing them from darkness into light. Guru Nanak was a humble bearer of this Light of Truth. He opposed superstition, injustice, and hypocrisy and inspired seekers by singing divine songs which touched the hearts of the most callous listeners. These songs were recorded, and formed the beginnings of the Sikhs' sacred writings, later to become the "SatGur".

The grounds include the Gurudwara, a kitchen, a large (holy) pond, a school and an art gallery. As with all Sikh Gurdwaras, the concept of langar is practiced, and all people, regardless of race or religion may eat in the Gurdwara kitchen (langar hall). The Langar (food) is prepared by gursikhs who work there and also by volunteers who like to help out. At the Gurdwara, visitors are requested to cover their hair and not to wear shoes. Assistance to foreigners and visitors with Guides, head scarves, and shoe-minding service can be found inside the compound and are available free of charge. Anyone can volunteer to help keep the shoes in the shoe-minding room, and cleaning the precincts of the Gurudwara.

The complex also houses a higher secondary school, Baba Baghel Singh Museum, a library and a hospital.”

201 As we entered the grounds we crossed a small wading pool designed to let people cleanse their feet before entering the temple area. There was an awning covered entry to the temple and as we entered we passed musicians chanting in the center area. When we came out of the main area we saw a huge holy pond which is under renovation. After walking around the pool we came upon a glassed in booth where people were preparing a dough which was then offered to those who wished to taste, reminiscent of communion I thought. Continuing on through the grounds we came upon a large complex which had a room about the size of half a football field and was used to feed thousands of people daily. Alongside this room was another, about half the size of the first, which was manned by volunteers rolling out dough and cooking it to make naan. Others were preparing a large vat, easily containing 100 gallons, of curry. Liz and Jane joined the other ladies from our group to help make naan and sent the raw dough to others who would then cook the flatbread on a large griddle. This was next to an automated baking process which flattened dough and sent it through a baking conveyor system to also cook flatbread. It was a large operation designed to feed many.

Leaving here we were able to stop at the India gate and take pictures before moving onward to Gandhi Smriti, the former official residence of Mahatma Gandhi. This is where he spent the last 144 days of his life. The residence of industrialist BD Birla has been converted into a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi, where he used to stay during his visits to Delhi. Gandhiji was assassinated here on his way to offer customary evening prayers. A large collection of photographs with a few personal belongings and a series of small dolls houses and terracotta dolls illustrating Gandhijis' life are the attractions at this museum.

We arrived around four thirty and Dav suggested we go directly inside as the museum would be closing at five o'clock. After that we could still walk the grounds for a few minutes as they got ready to close

202 the grounds. When we finished looking at the displays we walked the foot steps laid into the path representing the final steps Gandhi took.

On 30 January 1948. Gandhi was outside on the steps where a prayer meeting was going to take place, surrounded by a part of his family and some followers, when Nathuram Godse, a militant Hindu nationalist and prominent member of Hindu Mahasabha, approached and shot him three times in the chest at close range. Gandhi was taken back inside the Birla House, where he died.

We returned to our hotel and were advised as to when we should set out our luggage outside of our rooms in the morning. We could enjoy dinner in the hotel or walk 200 meters up the road to Sector 29, a series of shops and restaurants. Seven of us decided to try this super-sized food court.

We though we might understand the menu at Hops & Brew and went with easy choices of nachos, a spring roll (but were served a large empanada) and French fries. With the exception of the French fries, the other choices were heavily spiced and yogurt would not soften the edges. Still, it was satisfying and we enjoyed the walk through the shops.

Saturday, January 30

After breakfast we set out on a four hour drive southwest to Jaipur, “the pink city” of Rajasthan. Along the way we had a rest stop conveniently co-located with gift shops. Liz and I were in the front row of the bus and we mentally dodged erratic vehicles in behalf of our very calm and professional driver. We were positive we would crush a auto rickshaw or two or run into vehicles carrying silage and looking like a giant, moving pillow rushing down the road. We do not make good back-seat drivers and we tried to limit our squeaks or show fear. I am sure that Indian drivers do not pay any attention to traffic lines.

We did stop along the way to allow passengers the opportunity to cross over two lanes to the opposite side of the road where a troop of monkeys was begging foreigners to buy fruit from conveniently located vendors They would pose for photographs and Dav did warn our group to enjoy the experience but “do not tease the animals. Offer the monkeys the fruit but do not pull it away from them!”

Jaipur is the capital and largest city of the Indian state of Rajasthan in Northern India. It has a population of 6.66 million (tenth largest in India). Dav pointed out that this "was the first planned city."

The city of Jaipur was founded in 1727 by Jai Singh II, the Raja of Amer who ruled from 1688 to 1743. He planned to shift his capital from Amer, 11 km from Jaipur to accommodate the growing population and increasing scarcity of water. Jai Singh consulted several books on architecture and architects while planning the layout of Jaipur. Under the architectural guidance of Vidyadhar

203 Bhattacharya, Jaipur was planned based on the principles of Vastu shastra and Shilpa Shastra. The construction of the city began in 1727 and took four years to complete the major roads, offices and palaces. The city was divided into nine blocks, two of which contained the state buildings and palaces, with the remaining seven allotted to the public. Huge ramparts were built, pierced by seven fortified gates.

During the rule of Sawai Ram Singh, the city was painted pink to welcome prince Edward VII and Queen Victoria. Many of the avenues remained painted in pink, giving Jaipur a distinctive appearance and the epithet "The Pink City." The wide boulevards were paved and its chief industries were the working of metals and marble, fostered by a school of art founded in 1868. The city had three colleges, including a Sanskrit college (1865) and a girls' school (1867) opened during the reign of the Maharaja Ram Singh II.

The Trident Hotel is across from the Jal Mahal ("Water Palace"), a palace located in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake in Jaipur. The palace and the lake around it were renovated and enlarged in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II of Amber. Many people were walking and picnicking alongside the lake as we arrived. This would be our home for two days.

We arrived just in time for lunch and as we enjoyed our meal the luggage was offloaded from the bus and taken to our rooms. Dav distributed our keys and we collected our passports at the desk before going to our rooms to get ready for the afternoon activities.

Back on the bus, we drove through one of the northern gates to the city and passed by a large excavation for the new Metro being built. Jaipur Metro Rail system is India's sixth metro rail system after those in Kolkata, Delhi NCR, Bangalore, Gurgaon and Mumbai. It is also touted as one of the fastest built metro systems in India.

Continuing on, our driver dropped us off near the Bapu Bazaar. Dav then gave us a quick class on how to negotiate traffic in India. “When you cross through traffic walk steady and do not stop and do not run. Indian drivers will be

204 courteous.” That is good news, now all we have to do is remember to look right instead of left as we step off the curb.

Dev led the way through a couple of side streets until we reached a central location at a shop operated by a friend. “We will meet back here in an hour and twenty minutes. Now this shop is owned by my friend Maharajah, and will serve as a base to walk through the bazaar. It is identified by the number 154 at the top of the door and if you get lost you can ask anyone to show you the way back to this by the shop number. Many of the shopkeepers might say they are 'good friends of mine' and will offer you a good deal. Don't accept that, shop for your own best prices and then decide.”

We walked through the shops and looked at clothes, pashminas, shoes, jewelry, table runners, and tote bags. Each vendor quoted “"Madam, come into my shop. Good bargains for you. Please, it doesn't cost anything to look." They all were courteous and eager to have our business. It was fun and we enjoyed the experience but in the end all we bought were several tote bags. Then it was time to reassemble to attend the evening prayer ceremony at the Birla Temple.

At the foot of Moti Dungri fort is the Birla Mandir, a Hindu temple. It has three domes to represent the three religions of India; a tribute to the secular nature of the country. The temple looks stunning when it is brightly lit at night. The enormous temple was built during the year 1988, by Birla Group of Industries, one of the business tycoons of India. The Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu (Narayan), the preserver and his consort Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth. Due to this reason, Birla Temple is also known as Laxmi Narayan Temple. Birla Mandir is constructed in the finest quality of white marble. Stained glass windows depict the scenes from Hindu scriptures. Ganesh the protector of households, is above the lintel, and the fine quality of marble is evident when you enter the temple and look back at the entrance way. The images of Lakshmi and Narayan attract the attention, being made out from one piece of marble. Many of the deities of the Hindu pantheon are depicted inside the temple, and on the outside walls great historical personages and figures from all religions are shown, including Socrates, Zarathustra, Christ, Buddha, and Confucius. The temple is surrounded by lush green gardens. The fascinating exteriors of the temple are carved splendidly with beautiful sculptures based on mythological themes, while the interiors have a large marble panel portraying mythological events.

The ceremony was almost over when we arrived and we rushed to take off our shoes and enter the temple. It is quite beautiful and I was impressed at how welcomed I felt entering the main chamber. I was surprised to see stained glass windows, typical of Christian churches, but naturally with Hindi figures. Then, when Dav showed us the outside columns and facades I was surprised and delighted to

205 see the representation of other religions.

Then we returned to the entrance and saw our shoes were gone. "We have a saying in India that if you need a new pair of shoes, go to the temple." Dave told us that while we were walking about and it seemed prophetic as we discovered our shoes were gone. They had been bagged up and stored in a cabinet. We all recovered our own shoes.

Concluding a long day, we went to a local restaurant where we took our places at tables set before a small band platform and a puppet theater. This was similar to a folk performance we enjoyed at the Governor's Residence in Yangon in 2012. Puppeteers began the entertainment with amazing skills and then came out of the theater to demonstrate how they manipulate the puppets. Then the musicians began playing while two women danced. At one point one dancer balanced a column of four decreasing sized pots on her head as she twirled about. This she was accompanied by her daughter as they both danced with lit fire-pots on their heads. Then they invited audience participation and Liz went up to try. Despite encouragement from the young woman to take her hand off the burning pot, Liz prudently hung on with one hand as she danced.

Dav had invited his wife, Sony, to join us for dinner so we had the opportunity to meet her. Like Dav, Sony is a tour guide but for Gate One. They wouldn't have much opportunity to work together since they do so for competing agencies. When we finished our dinner and boarded the bus, Sony came aboard to take Dav home for the evening. He would rejoin us at our hotel early tomorrow morning.

Sunday, January 31

It was a bit hazy when we drove the few miles north to the Amber Fort. Passing by a small lake alongside the highway we were

206 dropped off at a courtyard lined with approximately sixty elephants waiting to carry us up the 300 feet or more to the interior of the fort. These elephants had been decorated with chalk designs on their head and trunks. In turn, our group took places, by two, in a Howdah mounted on each elephant. Then the Mahout (elephant keeper) directed his charge to enter the procession. We later learned that a mahout starts as a boy in the "family profession" when he is assigned an elephant early in its life. They remain bonded to each other throughout their lives.

It is easy to mentally transport yourself back in time to when the Raja and his court would ride this way to their castle. But for today we just enjoyed the spectacle and went through the entrance gate, known as the Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) of the fort. Photographers recorded the journey and later tracked you down in the main courtyard to sell you a book of their pictures. Dav had taken a photograph of us with my camera and I had taken photos of the caravan.

Amber Fort is located in Amer, located 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) from Jaipur, Rajasthan state. The town of Amer was originally built by Meenas, and later it was ruled by Raja Man Singh I (December 21, 1550 – July 6, 1614).

Amer Fort is known for its artistic Hindu style elements. With its large ramparts and series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks Maota Lake. It is the main source of water for the Amer palace.

The aesthetic ambiance of the palace is seen within its walls. Constructed of red sandstone and marble, the attractive, opulent palace is laid out on four levels, each with a courtyard. It consists of the Diwan-e-Aam, or "Hall of Public Audience", the Diwan-e-Khas, or "Hall of Private Audience", the Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace), or Jai Mandir, and the Sukh Niwas where a cool climate is artificially created by winds that blow over a water cascade within the palace. Hence, the Amer Fort is also popularly known as the Amer Palace. The palace was the residence of the Rajput Maharajas and their families. At the entrance to the palace near the fort's Ganesh Gate, there is a temple dedicated to Sila Devi, a goddess of the Chaitanya cult, which was given to Raja Man Singh when he defeated the Raja of Jessore, Bengal in 1604. (Jessore is now in Bangladesh).

The current Amer Palace, was created in the late 16th century, as a larger palace to the already existing home of the rulers. The older palace, known as Kadimi Mahal (Persian for ancient) is known to be the oldest surviving palace in India. This ancient palace sits in the valley behind the Amer Palace.

207 This palace, along with Jaigarh Fort, is located immediately above on the Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) of the same Aravalli range of hills. The palace and Jaigarh Fort are considered one complex, as the two are connected by a subterranean passage. This passage was meant as an escape route in times of war to enable the royal family members and others in the Amer Fort to shift to the more redoubtable Jaigarh Fort.

We dismounted from the howda at a platform built into the wall of the main courtyard (Jaleb Chowk) where armies would celebrate with victory parades. A The second courtyard, up the main stairway of the first level courtyard, houses the Diwan-i-Am (Public Audience Hall). Here is the Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) where Dav briefed us about the palace history. We entered through the Ganesh Pol (Ganesh Gate), named after the Hindu god Lord Ganesh, who removes all obstacles.

The third courtyard is where the private quarters of the Maharaja, his family and attendants were located. Here the Sheesh Mahal is separated by a large garden from the Sukh Mahal (Hall of Pleasure). The fourth courtyard is where the Zenana (Royal family women, including concubines or mistresses) lived. This courtyard has many living rooms where the queens resided and who were visited by the king at his choice without being found out as to which queen he was visiting, as all the rooms open into a common corridor.

When the vendors approached us for the final time to buy their pictures we declined, saying we already had photos. As we were finished with our tour I did offer to buy one unique photo for one dollar but the vendor insisted we buy the set for 500 rupees. He lowered his price as we were about to leave but insisted we pay 100 rupees ($0.62) for all eight. What a deal.

Now that we finished our tour of the fort Dav coordinated a vehicle ride back down to the road and Maota Lake and Garden. The rest of us walked the fifteen minutes down to the bus parking lot at the lake. It was time to return back to Jaipur and the Hawa Mahal.

Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) is so named because it was essentially a high screen wall built so the

208 women of the royal household could observe street festivals while unseen from the outside. Constructed of red and pink sandstone, the palace sits on the edge of the City Palace, and extends to the zenana, or women's chambers. Part of the City Palace, the Chandra Mahal, now houses a museum but the greatest part of it is still a royal residence and is not open to the public.

We entered the Diwan-I-Khas, a private audience hall of the Maharajas. It is located between the armory and the art gallery. There are two sterling silver vessels 5.2 ft high (1.6 M), 1,057 gal (4,000 liters) and weighing 750 lbs (340 kg), on display. They were made from 14000 melted silver coins. They are officially recorded by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's largest sterling silver vessels. These vessels were specially made by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II, a pious Hindu, to carry the water of the Ganges to drink on his trip to England in 1901 (for Edward VII's coronation) as he did not wish to commit religious sin by consuming the English water. Hence, the vessels are named as Gangajelies (Ganges-water urns).

As we gathered near the entrance Dav introduced us to two men who would sing a song for us. They were accompanied with a harmonium and Tabla drums. They sang “Welcome To My Home, My Place,” ( मेरे घर म आपका वागत है, मेर जगह mere ghar mein aapaka svaagat hai, meree jagah). It was a very pleasant serenade and led us next to a ride on ten bicycle rickshaws through the city center.

We were in the lead rickshaw an enjoyed our tour of the shopping areas as well as riding under the Palace of Winds. At a couple of points our driver had to get off the rickshaw to negotiate an obstacle but he did so easily and pushed our vehicle around the

209 difficulty. I thought the ride went quite well but when we returned to the bus Jane told us that the rickshaw she shared with Jean-Louis Vigne was operated by a man who did nothing but complain about having to work so hard for the foreign “Maharaja and Maharani.” I suspect he was fishing for a larger tip but I thought that was uncalled for and notified Dav of the incident.

Dav then spoke to our driver, who was apparently the supervisor of the group, and they then tried to identify the specific driver that Jane and Doctor John had chosen. Since our file of rickshaws had been photographed individually to sell us the pictures, Dav and the supervisor could scroll through the pictures and identify the man. He was suspended from driving for the next two days. Jane said she did not wish to cost the man his job but Dav said this was the only way the driver would be disciplined.

Our next place was a visit to Jantar Mantar. This was a most unusual site. I have never seen anything like it and marveled at the ability to demonstrate celestial movement that early. We walked through the instruments without clearly understanding how the king was able to design such instruments as early as 1738.

The Jantar Mantar monument of Jaipur, Rajasthan is a collection of nineteen architectural astronomical instruments, built by the Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh, and completed in 1738 CE. It features the world's largest stone sundial, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Located near City Palace and Hawa Mahal of Jaipur, the monument features masonry, stone and brass instruments that were built using astronomy and instrument design principles of ancient Hindu Sanskrit texts. The instruments allow the observation of astronomical positions with the naked eye. The monument expresses architectural innovations, as well as the coming together of ideas from different religious and social beliefs in 18th century India. The observatory is an example of the Ptolemaic positional astronomy which was shared by many civilizations.

The monument features instruments operating in each of the three main classical celestial coordinate systems: the horizon-zenith local system, the equatorial system and the ecliptic system. The Kapala Yantraprakara is one that works in two systems and allows transformation of the coordinates directly from one system to the other.

After lunch we drove to the promised Jaipur Handicrafts to learn more about the famous Rajasthani textiles and fabrics. This province is known for woven rugs, silk scarfs, and pashminas. As we entered the facility we were briefed about dying cloth with the emphasis of dying layers of color while aligning

210 the block prints to complete a pattern.

Next we moved to another area of the shop where weavers worked at looms making carpet as we watched. After demonstrating the process we retired to the salesroom to listen to descriptions of carpet of varying quality. Sizes and prices were discussed and we found a pattern and size to our liking. We have been looking at oriental carpets to replace the one I purchased in Stuttgart in 1972. We have recently priced several at the Post Exchange at Fort Lewis. Today we found a pattern and price that appealed to us and we ordered. Our choice will have to be created and it will take several months before it can be shipped to us.

Monday, February 01

We left our hotel at 09:00 and returned back north toward Dehli and Chokli Awas, a small village where World Spree sponsors a school. It took about a half hour and an off-road drive on a dirt road. We arrived at a small school house with a dozen children were laughing and giggling at we strangers. One precocious little girl introduced herself as Pandam and we took her picture and showed it back to her. Then, after we looked at the little store near the entrance, we saw Padam and two other girls lead a column of 15 other students through morning prayers, a welcome to us, and the national anthem.

Liz gave a bag of Tootsie Roll Midgees with American flag wrappers that we brought with us to the teacher to later pass on to the children. We circulated through the outdoor class room and then exchanged names with the children. Then it was time to drive on to Ranthambhore. We arrived after almost an hour to give people the opportunity to use an uncooperative ATM. Some were blessed with an operating terminal and some did not. Jane was unable to get cash.

We were on secondary roads much of the way and they bounced and swayed, sometimes a bit violently. When we got to the hotel we had to drive very rough dirt roads up to a very modern representation of a Rajah's palace. This was the Alsisar Nahargarh Ranthambhore. In 2001 it was built by the descendants of Rao Shekhaji who ruled this kingdom five centuries ago. It is a beautiful property out in the middle of nowhere. Probably an early sign of additional properties to be built here.

“Nahargarh, the most luxurious hotel lies nestled at the foot hills of 'Aravali ranges' neighbouring the Ranthambhore National Park. Surrounded by a 16th century style fortress, Nahargarh is built like a traditional Rajput hunting palace complete with a vast "Char Bagh" or formal Mughal

211 garden. The award winning Palace sure is a perfect base to explore Ranthambhore from the lap of luxury filled nature. Nahargarh is a complete habitat in itself as one can see several animals and birds, performing their playful acts in the surrounding grasslands. The proximity of Nahargarh to the National Park makes it a travelers' hub. With 80 ultra luxurious rooms it offers the best-in- the-industry facilities for accommodation and dining. Nahargarh, with its vast gardens, well appointed conference halls and luxurious accommodations is also an ideal location for hosting fairy-tale weddings and conferences.”

After lunch we were taken to the top parapets to our room. Our room and Jane's room are not duplicates of the same design. Each room seems unique. We have a lace covered four poster bed in an elegant tiled room with appropriate, period furniture. We explored the grounds and exchanged money at the desk. Then we went to the hotel souvenir shop. We bought a couple of t-shirts and Liz and Jane ordered tailor made tunics. We had a gin and tonic as we sat in the courtyard.

We were scheduled to view a documentary film at 19:00 followed by dinner. One of the t-shirts had ink marks on the sleeve so we took it back to exchange it. They didn't have another matching color so we chose two others which did match. They advised Liz that her tunic was finished so she picked it up when I returned my t-shirt to complete our original exchange.

Then we sat where the film was scheduled to be shown. It was an education for me. I thought tigers would act like a pride of lions but they are quite solitary and territorial. After dinner we retired to our room as our wake-up call would be at 05:30 and we depart on safari at 06:30.

During the age of the Rajas, Ranthambhore served as a favorite hunting ground and escape from palace life for the Jaipur ruling family. Now a key part of Project Tiger, this vast and renowned reserve has won international acclaim for its role in the preservation and protection of tigers.

212 Tuesday, February 02

The nearby railroad trains did not wake me but when I did wake up they were loud and frequent in the night air. We woke at 5:00 and were given a wake-up call at 5:30. Too early as it turned out because we didn't clean up before we left but just wore yesterday's clothes. At six o'clock we had coffee and biscuits and later boarded the open transportation for our safari. We had a naturalist who guided us through the experience.

We drove out on Trek Route 2 and the ride was a thrill. The vehicles, called Canters, are open top buses for 20 people. The seats are firm and the trail is very rough. We were tossed and bounced as we searched the trails. Liz actually fell out of her seat onto the bed of the bus. It was almost easier to stay there.

We only saw tracks in the morning. When one of the guides noticed any trace, they would radio the other guides and the other vehicles would gather to help in the search. The park offers habitat to a variety of native wildlife including leopards, deer, hyenas, sloth bears, mongoose and, at the apex of the food chain, the Royal Bengal Tiger. We spent a fair amount of time listening in silence for the distress calls of deer and monkeys as guides. But we did not see a tiger.

By eight thirty we were back at the hotel for breakfast. We would have another safari in the afternoon but for now we could clean up and relax. I enjoyed walking around the inner courtyard where I found numerous photos of Indian life at the turn of the 20 th century. Many were of the life of the raja, his family, and his ministers. Other depicted the influence of the British Raj and included pictures of the Prince of Whales and Queen Victoria's visit. Others showed tiger hunting, to include the trophy shot

213 by the Prince of Whales.

At four o'clock in the afternoon we again went back on safari. This time we searched a different track. We were closer to the river and we heard a tiger roar between us and the water. Within minutes we had another five vehicles sharing in the search. We listened and looked as hard as we could and worried that our hopes to see a tiger might fool us into validating a mirage. We knew that a tiger was near but it was better camouflaged in the grasses than our eyesight could penetrate. We knew one was near but we could not see it. For the day we had taken two trips to its' domain. So far I had walked about a mile around our hotel but we remained in the vehicles most of the day in the park. Still, my pedometer recorded our travels. Apparently all the bouncing sent my butt 22,500 steps, 12.5 miles, over 88 aerobic minutes. That was a lot of travel for the day.

Our dinner this evening was an advertised “al fresco” barbecue. This was done in an outside courtyard off the dining room. We enjoyed the atmosphere of a barbecue but this had a different definition than what we are used to seeing. With the exception of chicken kababs, the rest of the menu was similar to the other Indian buffets we have been enjoying. We enjoyed being outside and the cool beer helped.

We then listened to the entertainers in the main courtyard while having a cocktail. Then we retired to our room to ready our luggage for an early departure tomorrow morning.

Wednesday, February 03

Today we would drive to Agra and stop on the way at Abhaneri, a village in the Dausa district of Rajasthan state in India. It is situated at a distance of 95 km from Jaipur, on the Jaipur-Agra road. The place is popular for the Chand Baori step well and Harshat Mata Temple.

Abhaneri is prominent for 'Baoris', step wells which were invented by the natives to harvest rain water. These tanks were used as cool places of retreat and as water reservoirs during parched times of the year. Chand Baori is the most popular of the wells in the region, and it is one of India's deepest and largest. There are three ways to reach the water using the steps, which are divided into stories. This colossal, delicately carved well is located in front of the Harshat Mata Temple. It was a ritual to wash the hands and feet at the well before visiting the adjoining temple.

Harshat Mata Temple, dedicated to the goddess Harshat Mata, serves as the other tourist attraction of Abhaneri. Razed during the invasion of India by Islamic

214 rulers in the 10th century, the remains of the temple still boast architectural and sculptural styles of ancient India. Harshat Mata is considered to be the goddess of joy and happiness. According to myth, the goddess is always cheerful, and she imparts her joy and happiness to the whole village.

As we were riding in the bus several passengers requested that we make a stop at an ATM to withdraw some cash. We did so but the machine was not working properly and no one was able to get money. Continuing on Dav was telling us of a local vehicle, called a Jugaad, and he described its function in rural communities.

“Jugaad (Juggaar) is a colloquial Hindi and Punjabi word that can mean an innovative fix or a simple work-around, used for solutions that bend rules, or a resource that can be used as such, or a person who can solve a complicated issue.

Jugaad can also refer to a low-cost improvised vehicle, which typically costs around Rs. 50,000 (about US$800). Jugaads are powered by diesel engines originally intended to power agricultural irrigation pumps. They are known for poor brakes, and cannot go faster than about 60 km/h (37 mph). The vehicle often carries more than 20 people at a time in remote locations and poor road conditions. Today, a jugaad is one of the most cost effective transportation solutions for rural Indians.

Though no statistical data is available, it is reported that there are a number of instances of failing brakes, requiring a passenger to jump off and manually apply a wooden block as a brake. These vehicles do not have any vehicle registration plate, as they are not registered with the Regional Transport Office (RTO). No road tax is paid on them.

Jugaads are not officially recognized as road-worthy, and despite a few proposals to regulate them, vote-bank politics have trumped safety concerns. The improvised vehicles have now become rather popular as a means to transport all manner of burdens, from lumber to steel rods to school children. For safety reasons the government of India has officially banned Jugaad vehicles.”

Dav then asked if we would like to see one of these vehicles up close. We stopped at a small gathering of locals near a new or almost new Jugaad. Dav spoke with the owner and told us that we could climb aboard and take a ride if we wished. Most of us were curious and we got onto the Jugadd while the bus followed us with those of the group who did not wish to ride in the vehicle.

We drove off and then became the center of attention for the community. Here was a group of foreigners taking a joy ride in a local “work” vehicle. People were pointing and smiling at our group and several people took pictures. Later we found that one of the photographers must have been a stringer for a local newspaper because several of Dav's friends later alerted him that our picture was printed in an online newspaper, Rajasthan Patrika Jaipur, and was then published on Page 12 of the edition of 4 Feb 2016.

Foreign Guests enjoying Indigenous 'JUGAAD' ride

215 On Wednesday morning in Lalsot there were foreigners on their way to Agra. They liked the vehicle and all jumped on it and took selfies. They took a ride as their bus followed it. Photographer Mahish Vehari Sharma

Back on the bus, we continued to Abhaneri, a village in the Dausa district of Rajasthan. It is 95 km from Jaipur, on the Jaipur-Agra road. The place is popular for the Chand Baori step well and Harshat Mata Temple.

These 'Baoris', step wells were invented by the natives to harvest rain water. These tanks were used as cool places of retreat and as water reservoirs during parched times of the year. Chand Baori is the most popular of the wells in the region, and it is one of India's deepest and largest. There are three ways to reach the water using the steps, which are divided into stories. This colossal, delicately carved well is located in front of the Harshat Mata Temple. It was a ritual to wash the hands and feet at the well before visiting the adjoining temple.

Harshat Mata Temple, dedicated to the goddess Harshat Mata, serves as the other tourist attraction of Abhaneri. Razed during the invasion of India by Islamic rulers in the 10th century, the remains of the temple still boast architectural and sculptural styles of ancient India. Harshat Mata is considered to be the goddess of joy and happiness. According to myth, the goddess is always cheerful, and she

216 imparts her joy and happiness to the whole village.

We had time to tour this famous “Step well” lined with stair steps which led at least sixty feet to the well. On the sides of this well were partitions where people could stay and get cooled during parched times.

“The small village of Abhaneri has one of India's deepest and largest step wells (also known as tank gardens). Step wells are unique to India. They were used as cool places of resort, as pools for ritual cleansing before a temple visit and as a water supply for dry weather. There is a temple adjoining the step well.”

Along the way we stopped at Umaid Lake Palace for lunch. It is landscaped to reflect the gardens of an ancient Mughal palace. They grow their own produce for use in their restaurant. We were the first of three bus groups to gather for lunch. Dav asked if anyone would like to take the opportunity to knead, roll out, and then cook naan at our table. Liz seized the opportunity and cooked some while we lined up for the buffet.

After lunch we continued on to our final destination today, Agra, set on the banks of the Yamuna River, now a sprawling metropolis but previously served as the capital of the vast Mughal Empire for many

217 years. This rich history is reflected in the city's status as part of India's famed Golden Triangle, drawing tourists to visit the Taj Mahal and the other historic sites.

We arrived at Courtyard by Marriott Agra and went straight to the dinning room for dinner. While we ate Dav coordinated room assignments and obtained keys to our rooms. As before, he issued keys and aw collected our passports after dinner. Then we retired to our rooms to prepare for tomorrow morning and a visit to the Taj Mahal, the Jewel of India.

Thursday, February 04

We had been alerted that if there was fog this morning we might alter the time we drive to the Taj Mahal but the weather was clear so we began there. The bus parked about a half mile away and Dav had coordinated auto rickshaw rides for us to go to the entrance. As we assembled he introduced a professional photographer who would take group and individual photos for us throughout the morning. Later we would be able to purchase as many or as few as we wished.

“The Taj Mahal (Persian for "Crown of Palaces") is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south bank of the Yamuna river in the Indian city of Agra. The Taj Mahal was commissioned by Shah Jahan (ruled from 1628–1658) in 1631, to be built in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, a Persian princess who died giving birth to their 14th child, Gauhara Begum. Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632. The imperial court documenting Shah Jahan's grief after the death of Mumtaz Mahal illustrate the love story held as the inspiration for Taj Mahal. The principal mausoleum was completed in 1643 and the surrounding buildings and garden were finished about five years later.

The tomb is the centerpiece of a 42-acre complex, which includes a mosque and a guest house, and is set in formal gardens bounded on three sides by a crenelated wall. The tomb is the central focus of the entire complex of the Taj Mahal. It is a large, white marble structure standing on a square plinth and consists of a symmetrical building with an iwan (arch-shaped doorway) topped by a large dome and finial. Like most Mughal tombs, the basic elements are Persian in origin.

The base structure is a large multi-chambered cube with chamfered corners forming an unequal eight-sided structure that is approximately 55 metres (180 ft) on each of the four long sides. Each side of the iwan is framed with a huge pishtaq or vaulted archway with two similarly shaped arched balconies stacked on either side. This motif of stacked pishtaqs is replicated on the chamfered corner areas, making the design completely symmetrical on all sides of the building. Four minarets frame the tomb, one at each corner of the plinth facing the chamfered corners. The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan; the actual graves are at a lower level.

Construction of the mausoleum was essentially completed in 1643 but work continued on other phases of the project for another 10 years. The Taj Mahal complex is believed to have been completed in its entirety in 1653 at a cost estimated at the time to be around 32 million rupees, which in 2015 would be approximately 52.8 billion rupees (US $827 million). The construction project employed some 20,000 artisans under the guidance of a board of architects led by the court architect to the emperor, Ustad Ahmad Lahauri.

The Taj Mahal was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 for being 'the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage'. Described by the Nobel laureate, Rabindranath Tagore, as 'the tear-drop on the cheek of time', it is regarded by many as the best example of Mughal architecture and a symbol of India's rich history.”

218 As you walk up to and through the main gate to the complex there is an optical illusion which makes the Taj Mahal seem to grow larger in the distance. Then when you proceed you are in the garden overlooking the walkways beside a reflecting pool leading to the mausoleum.

The grounds of the complex are walled in on three sides with the side behind the Taj Mahal open to the south bank of the Yamuna River. As we walked through the gardens taking pictures we were approached by many people who offered to take pictures with our camera. I did agree and one man took about six photos for me and then I took the camera back and offered him 100 rupees. He asked for 500 but that was too much. Even that turned out to be wasted because when I later saw the few pictures he took they were all blurred. I suspect he pushed the shutter button so quickly it did not have time to reset the focus. So the photos from my camera were of Liz and Jane at the Taj Mahal. I would only be in the pictures of the three of us that the professional photographer took.

We had been charged by Dav to look for the sole example of the mausoleum which was not symmetrical. This was easy to find. The cenotaph of Mumtaz Mahal is in the center and that of Shah Jahan is off center.

“Muslim tradition forbids elaborate decoration of graves. Hence, the bodies of Mumtaz and Shah Jahan were put in a relatively plain crypt beneath the inner chamber with their faces turned right, towards Mecca. Mumtaz Mahal's cenotaph is placed at the precise centre of the inner chamber on a rectangular marble base of 1.5 by 2.5 metres (4 ft 11 in by 8 ft 2 in). Both the base and casket are elaborately inlaid with precious and semiprecious gems. Calligraphic inscriptions on the casket identify and praise Mumtaz. On the lid of the casket is a raised rectangular lozenge meant to suggest a writing tablet. Shah Jahan's cenotaph is beside Mumtaz's to the western side, and is the only visible asymmetric element in the entire complex. His cenotaph is bigger than his wife's, but reflects the same elements: a larger casket on a slightly taller base precisely decorated with lapidary and calligraphy that identifies him. On the lid of the casket is a traditional sculpture of a small pen box.

219 The pen box and writing tablet are traditional Mughal funerary icons decorating the caskets of men and women respectively. The Ninety Nine Names of God are calligraphic inscriptions on the sides of the actual tomb of Mumtaz Mahal. Other inscriptions inside the crypt include, "O Noble, O Magnificent, O Majestic, O Unique, O Eternal, O Glorious... ". The tomb of Shah Jahan bears a calligraphic inscription that reads; "He traveled from this world to the banquet-hall of Eternity on the night of the twenty-sixth of the month of Rajab, in the year 1076 Hijri”.

We had the opportunity to walk the grounds for an hour. We marveled at the expanse and design of the mausoleum. "The interior chamber of the Taj Mahal reaches far beyond traditional decorative elements. The inlay work is not pietra dura, but a lapidary of precious and semiprecious gemstones. The octagonal marble screen or jali bordering the cenotaphs is made from eight marble panels carved through with intricate pierce work. The remaining surfaces are inlaid in delicate detail with semi- precious stones forming twining vines, fruits and flowers. Each chamber wall is highly decorated with dado bas-relief, intricate lapidary inlay and refined calligraphy panels which reflect, in miniature detail, the design elements seen throughout the exterior of the complex."

At the crossing of the walkways in the center of the garden is a raised platform (chabutra) of white marble with an ornamental pool (hauz) containing five fountains. It was claimed that it held the water of the celestial Kausar, the Propher's river in Paradise, which fills the pool at which believers bench their thirst on arrival. The four marble benches around the tank were put in 1907-08. The four main walkways are identical, but they are differentiated through their context. The enclosing wall is lined by a peripheral walkway and articulated by large pointed arches which support a narrow elevated walk running in front of ornamental crenelations. These elements of fortification architecture give the garden

220 wall substance and a character of display. At the place where the subsidiary walkway of the south- western quadrant meets the garden wall, a drinking fountain of a design “in accord with its surrounding” was put up in 1909-10 by the British government “for the use of soldiers and other visitors to the mausoleum”.

We walked out of the west gate of the Taj Mahal and gathered at the equestrian statue of Maharaja Shivaji is located at the Purani Mandi crossing. Dav called our driver and we boarded the bus. We had already purchased our pictures from the professional photographer but Dav opened the “bus bazaar” for the local vendors. We did this at most stops. It gave the vendors the opportunity to show their wares and offer a price. The items were then passed through the bus and if one of us wanted the item we would pass our money forward to Dav to pay to the vendor. This concentrated the effort, limited the exchange between the vendors and us, and saved time.

Next, we visited the famed Red Fort of Agra. This vast fort was the home of the Mughal Emperors and their many courtiers during Agra’s era as capital. Enjoying an important position on a bend of the Yamuna River, Emperor Akbar the Great initiated construction, building a vast sandstone fort.

However, it was his grandson Shah Jahan, the creator of the Taj Mahal, who added to it and embellished it using the finest marble, intricate carvings and inlaid precious stones. This architectural largess was not entirely appreciated by his son, Aurangzeb, who thought Shah Jahan was wasting the Empire’s fortune. When Shah Jahan became ill in in 1658 Aurangzeb deposed his father and kept him under house arrest in Musamman Burj - a large, octagonal tower within the fort - until his death in 1666 - his one consolation, a view of the Taj Mahal, the resting place of his beloved late wife.

221 Touring the fort, we walked through the outer courtyard as well as the The Diwan-i-Am (a communications ground between the public and the aristocracy and once housed the Peacock Throne). This led to the Diwan-i-Khas (hall of private audience, it was used to welcome kings and dignitaries). At the Sheesh Mahal (Glass Palace) we discovered the royal dressing room adorned by tiny mirror-like glass-mosaic decorations on the walls.

Outside of this section we could see the Taj Mahal, a half mile to the southeast along the Yamuna River. While we were admiring the view a young man came by with his infant son in his arms. The boy smiled and reached for Liz who held him while he cooed and giggled. Then his mom and grandfather joined us as they all beamed over the boy.

In keeping with today's events, we drove to the Taj Mahal Restaurant for lunch. We were greeted by a doorman in a colorful dark red tunic with a red and black striped hat. This was the buffet menu.

Tajmahal The Multi Cuisine Restaurant

Veg Soup / Tamoto Soup Dal Makhani Mix Raita Butter Chicken / Chicken curry Steamed Rice Assrted Naan Palak Paneer Veg Matar Pulao Papad Seasonal Vegtable Veg Hakka Noodle Salad Dal Tadka Spring Roll / Chilly Patoto Kheer / Gulab Jamun

After lunch we went to a local marble and leather market, to explore and shop for marble souvenirs, miniature Taj replicas, leather shoes and more. At the "Pietra Dura Workshop", we could watch master craftsmen at work on this traditional Indian handicraft - highly polished colored stones, particularly marbles, along with precious and semi-precious stones, are carefully cut and inlaid to create beautiful images. The technique evolved to its peak during the construction of Taj Mahal and is still passed on from generation to generation.

"Taj Mahal, one of the wonders of world. It's known for exceptional inlay work and architecture. Monarch Crafts presents, the wonders of same inlay work for your interiors. We capture the beauty of Taj Mahal as inlay designs on White Makrana Marble & Kudappa Black stone to guard the royalty of the Great Mughal's era.

Inlay is one of the most intricate and complicated arts. It is originated in Florence, Italy in 16th century known as Pietra Dura. It was introduced in India in 17th century by the Mughals. The art

222 of inlay is called "Parchin Kari".

Monarch Crafts is located in Jaipur but their “factory / workshop” is in Agra. We first took seats in a room where four craftsmen demonstrated a portion of their marble carving and inlay work. A supervisor described what they were doing and when the briefing was finished we were ushered to a showroom where we could see, and buy, pieces which ranged from coaster size to huge dining room furnishings. We wondered how anyone traveling with airline luggage restrictions could purchase much of anything from this workshop. The supervisor assured us that would not be a problem. The Indian government subsidized this art and paid for the shipping anywhere in the world. We just window shopped.

Friday, February 05

After breakfast our luggage was loaded on the bus for our transfer to the Agra Cantonment Railroad Station. Today we say goodbye to this driver and bus boy as we will have different drivers later. When we got off the bus we were quickly approached by beggars, but today even this was different.

There was a young girl, a teenager, holding an infant and missing a right hand. Next to her was a man of about thirty years old and sitting on a cart made up of a flat platform with four wheel-chair like wheels. His arms and legs appeared normal but his hand and feet were three times normal sized. His fingers were the size of bratwurst! I have no idea what may have caused the affliction but I had never seen anything like it before. And after the line of beggars there were lines of vendors trying to sell trinkets.

The railway station processes 180 trains daily which accounts for the parking lot full of taxis, auto- rickshaws, tempos and cycle-rickshaws that are available for local movement. Our group was scheduled for Train 12002 Bhopal Shtbdi and assembled on Track 1 (of 6). We split into a group of six and a group of 16 passengers, four cars apart. During the 2½ hour ride to Jhansi Junction we were offered bottles of water and sandwiches. The ride through the beautiful countryside was refreshing. The fields were lush and green.

At Jhansi I was surprised at a presence of Military Police. Dav said that Jhansi was a cantonment area. “It was never really subdued by the British or any other authority. And there are bandits here.” Crossing the parking lot, we met our new driver and bus boy and loaded into our bus for a drive to Orchha, a medieval city.

"Orchha is one of the medieval cities built during l6th century by Bundel Rajput King Rudrapratap on the banks of rocky Betwa

223 river in Bundelkhund region of Madhya Pradesh. It is situated on Jhansi-Khajuraho road, 170 km from Khajuraho and l6 km from Jhansi. Bir Singh Deo, the successor of Rudrapratap developed the city during l7th century and what it is today is a memorable rich legacy of the ages that attracts many tourists. The very word 'Orchha' means 'hidden' and, verily, the small town of Orchha in Madhya Pradesh (India) stands for it. It is a hidden archaeological legacy of medieval India, it is a hidden 'throb' of romance and emotional rupture, it is a hidden face of history, a hidden treasure of spiritual tranquility, a hidden poetry written on stones.

Orchha is most famous for its beautiful fort palaces (mahals), temples, gardens and cenotaphs (chhatris-memorials). The Iahangir l\/Iahal, which was built by Bir Singh Deo in the early part of the l7th century to mark the visit of the Mughal Emperor, is 70 m square palace and has a smaller interior courtyard with a central fountain around which are apartments and terraces in three storeys. The palace of Hardaul is another important monument of romance.

The Ram Raja Temple, also within the fort, was originally a palace but turned into a temple with its soaring spires and palatial architecture. The Chaturbhuj Temple was built by Madhukar Shah for his queen Kunwari. Laid out in the form of a cross on a large stone platform, it has delicate exterior ornamentation With lotus emblems and religious symbols. A stone path links the Ram Raja Temple to the Lakshminarayana Temple, which fuses elements of fort architecture in temple moulds. The interiors contain some of the most exquisite murals and wall paintings of the Bundela School of painting."

We parked near the market and then crossed over a multiple arched bridge to the Orchha Fort. This then opens into a quadrangle surrounded by palaces such as Raja Mahal or Raja Mandir, Sheesh Mahal, Jahangir Mahal, temple, gardens and pavilions. There are balconies, battlements and latticed windows.

Our local guide informed us the Jahangir Mahal dates back to the 17th century A.D. when the then ruler of the region named Vir Singh Deo built the structure as a symbol of warm reception of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir, during the latter’s first visit to the city. “The emperor only stayed in this palace one night but as it was a gift, Vir Singh Deo would not reclaim nor ever set foot back into this palace.”

The Raja Mahal was the royal residence of the kings of Orchha. Beautiful towers decorate the exterior of this magnificent palace, and outstanding mural paintings adorn the interiors. The palace houses two rectangular courtyards, which follows the ancient Indian concept of the mandapa (pillared outdoor hall or pavilion for public rituals). The most important feature inside the palace is the Diwan-i-Khaas, which is widely admired for its fantastic motifs of Hindi gods.

The Sheesh Mahal is an annex of the Jehangir Mahal, full of stairways winding through the thick walls accessing curious little rooms, a couple of courts and a few large rooms. One of them had mirror chips in the ceiling and a strategically-placed, full-length, cheval mirror which, from the enormous double bed, gave uninterrupted views of the huge stone tub in the bathroom. The Palace is now taken over by the MP Tourism Development Corporation and is run as a hotel and restaurant. We did not go inside.

224 Our bus then set out on a three hour drive to our next stop at the Radisson Hotel Khajuraho. We did stop at a way station for a rest stop and an opportunity to shop for crafts. By the time we reached the hotel we joined up with another tour group and went directly to the restaurant. The staff had difficulty copying all the passports and while we did receive our keys to our room we had to return to the desk several times to secure those passports.

Saturday, February 06

After breakfast Dav introduced by Govind, our regional guide, as we drove to the Temples of Khajuraho, whose name stems from the Khajur tree (the date palm tree), which grew abundantly in the locality. Here we would see Hindi and Jain temples. We also learned more of India religions.

Indian religions, also termed as Dharmic faiths or religions, are the religions that originated in the Indian subcontinent; namely Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism and Sikhism. These religions are also classified as Eastern religions. Although Indian religions are connected through the history of India, they constitute a wide range of religious communities, and are not confined to the Indian subcontinent.

Hinduism is mankind's oldest living religious tradition, which has practiced since time immemorial. One English missionary in India, comparing Hinduism with other world civilizations long since dead, paid tribute to its endurance “...but Hinduism lives on. Age has not decayed it, rivals have not destroyed it."

The term ‘Hindu’ is related to the word Sindhu – the name of a river, which is known in English as the river Indus. Because of the difficulty in pronunciation by the Persians the river Sindhu became the river ‘Hindu’. And the inhabitants living across the river ‘Hindu’ became Hindus and the land became to be known as Hindustan. Hence, the major religion of India (Latin derivative of Hindu), became to be known as Hinduism.

Hinduism became an umbrella description for the multitude of religious ideas in the Indian sub- continent. Some of these ideas adhere closely to the original Vedic tradition, while over the years many have incorporated local influences with regional, linguistic and doctrinal variations. The proliferation of Hindu denominations fall within three main groups: Vaishnavaism, worship of Krishna and His incarnations; Shaivism, worship of Shiva; and the Shaktas who worship Kali. The all-embracing nature of Hinduism often appears confusing for the Western mind, but despite external variety, much philosophy is common for all Hindus.

225 A notable feature of Hinduism, referred to as Sanatana Dharma (the eternal religion) or Vedic Dharma (pertaining to the Vedas), is that it does not originate from one prophet or teacher. The earliest record of Hindu teaching is found in the Vedas (c. 3000 B.C.), but many authorities claim that Hinduism is as old as the universe, being based upon eternal truths, which have no mortal source. Other great religions - Jainism, Buddhism, and more recently Sikhism - appeared from the Vedic tradition.

“This small and quiet town is famed for its complex of temples and their intricate carvings, many of which depict erotic scenes. Built during the 10th and 11th centuries, this style of temple was prevalent over much of northern India. However, most were subsequently destroyed by Islamic invaders, seeing the carvings as contravening their beliefs. The temples at Khajuraho largely escaped due to the town's remote location.

Our tour focuses on some of the best preserved temples, offering the chance to truly appreciate the intricate handiwork that went into their construction. The temples celebrate many aspects of womanhood and eroticism, reflected in depictions of women writing, applying eye makeup, combing tresses, and dancing and playing with offspring. The temple builders designed and carved each piece to lead the eyes from ground level upward until one sees the heavens above.”

“All temples, except one (Chaturbhuja) face sunrise - another symbolic feature that is predominant in Hindu temples. The relative layout of temples integrate masculine and feminine deities and symbols highlight the interdependence. The art work symbolically highlight the four goals of life considered necessary and proper in Hinduism – Dharma (righteousness), kama (desire} , artha (wealth) and moksha (liberation).

Of the surviving temples, 6 are dedicated to Shiva and his consorts, 8 to Vishnu and his affinities, 1 to Ganesha, 1 to Sun god, 3 to Jain Tirthanks.

The temples have a rich display of intricately carved statues. While they are famous for their erotic sculpture, sexual themes cover less than 10% of the temple sculpture. Further, most erotic scene panels are neither prominent nor emphasized at the expense of the rest, rather they are in proportional balance with the non-sexual images. The viewer has to look closely to find them, or be directed by a guide. The arts cover numerous aspects of human life and values considered important in Hindu pantheon. Further, the images are arranged in a configuration to express central ideas of Hinduism.”.

226 After we finished at the main temple area we got back on the bus to drive to a Jain temple. Here too we were accosted by vendors but they were only outside the temple; they were not allowed into the temple area itself. The Jain temple looked somewhat similar as the stone and architecture of the other temples we had seen this morning but one section of the facility looked as though the stone was cut out of fresh butter... it was that yellow.

The origins of Jainism can be traced back to the Indus River valley civilization of 3000 B.C.

Jains believe that there were 24 great teachers the last of whom was Lord Mahavira who lived during 6th century B.C. These twenty-four teachers are called Tirthankaras-people who had attained all knowledge while living (Moksha) and preached it to the people. Thus, there is not one all-powerful supreme being that controls all.

Jains believe in reincarnation. Their souls, which are believed to be a unique substance in the universe, take different living forms in the cycle of birth, death, and rebirth. This cycle has been going on forever, the universe has no beginning or end, it has always been and always will be. The ultimate goal is to get rid of one's karma on their soul so that they may end this cycle. Once this goal is reached their soul has attained all knowledge and it rests in the heavens forever (Nirvana).

Karma theory is about actions and the results they bring to the soul's path. It is the simply the law of cause and effect with respect to the soul.

E.G. One's actions for today will effect what will happen to them in this or their future lives. The way to get rid of one's karma is to follow certain rules of doing good somewhat similar to the ten commandments. These include the principles of:

Ahimsa - To protect all life (non-violence) Satya - To speak truth Asteya - To not steal Brahmacharya - To not commit adultery Aparigraha - To limit one's possessions

Jains uphold these principles by practicing vegetarianism, non-violence in thought, deed, and action.

We were able to tour the grounds and walk into several of the buildings as Govind explained the significance of what we were seeing and the importance of this site to Indian culture. When we finished our tour we made our way to the Khajuraho Airport for a Jet Airways flight to Varanasi.

227 Upon arrival we transferred to the Radisson Hotel Varanasi, where we quickly secured our rooms and accepted our luggage before re-boarding the bus to go to the river to view evening prayers. Sitting on the crescent-shaped bank of the holy Ganges River, has become one of the oldest continually inhabited cities of the world and a major center of learning for India.

Dav said, “Varanasi is considered among the holiest of innumerable Hindu sites, one tenet of the faith holds that death at this place brings salvation from the cycles of reincarnation. As such, Varanasi inspires devotees to flock to ceremonial riverside steps, known as ghats, to perform their ritual aartis (Hindu religious ritual of worship, a part of puja, in which light from wicks soaked in ghee or camphor is offered to one or more deities)”.

The bus parked about two blocks from the river and walked to the shore to board a boat. As we went southwest along the river Dav explained that the wide sets of steps descending to the river were called ghats and were used to enter the water for bathing. Some of the properties at the head of these stairs we maintained by Rajas and wealthy families. Some are now run down but the ghats still give access to the Ganges.

“The city has 87 ghats. Most of the ghats are bathing and puja ceremony ghats, while a few are used exclusively as cremation sites.

Most Varanasi ghats were built after 1700 AD, when the city was part of Maratha Empire. The patrons of current ghats are Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, and Peshwes (Peshwas). Many ghats are associated with legends or mythologies while many ghats are privately owned.

The Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are dedicated to the cremation ritual. Annually, less than 2 in 1000 people who die in India, or 25,000 to 30,000 bodies are cremated on various Varanasi Ghats; about an average of 80 per day. This practice has become controversial for the pollution it causes to the river. In 1980s, the Government of India funded a Clean Ganges initiative, to address cremation and other sources of pollution along the Ghats of Varanasi. In many cases, the cremation is done elsewhere and only the ashes are dispersed into the river near these Ghats.

Untreated sewage is a pervasive source of river pollution in India. City municipal waste and untreated sewage is the largest source of pollution of Ganges river near the Ghats of Varanasi.”

We continued by boat along the river to an area where we could see smoke rising from the shore. This is where the bodies of the dead are washed and prepared for cremation. The family members carry the shrouded body of their loved one and lower it into the river. These are decorated in very colorful fabrics and, after this washing, it is placed on a funeral pyre.

“The cremations in Varanasi and other places are preformed by the Doms, a subcaste that makes their living burning bodies for cremations for a fee that ranges considerably depending on the wealth of the family. The Doms are a caste of Untouchables. Touching a corpse after death is viewed as polluting and thus only Untouchables are designated to do this kind of work. So terrible is this work, it is said, Doms are expected to weep when their children are born and party when death releases them from their macabre responsibilities.

In addition to charging money for performing the cremations the Doms also take a cut from the exorbitantly-priced wood sold near the ghats. The Doms in Varanasi have become very wealthy from their trade and some Indians have accused them of "extortion" because of the high prices

228 they charge and the fact they often take money from poor families that struggle to pay for the cremations. Because they are the only ones allowed to perform the cremations, the Doms have established a monopoly that allows them to charge very high prices.”

Dav informed us, “Today only bones and ashes are supposed to be scattered in the river. Even so the cremation process, especially among those who can not afford the large amount of wood needed to incinerate the entire body, leaves behind a lot of half burned body parts. To get rid of the body parts special snapping turtles are bred and released in the river that are taught to consume dead human flesh but not bother swimmers and bathers.”

While we were offshore we could count seven funeral pyres and we watched three families bring the corpses of their loved one to be washed in the Ganges. We continued on and formed a flotilla of small boats to observe groups of priests line the Ganges to perform their nightly aarti ceremony each evening.

Hundreds of pilgrims and tourists gather along the shore and in boats to witness the 40-minute spectacle, in which surprisingly young and slow-moving priests perform

229 rituals involving blowing horns, throwing flower petals, ringing bells, waving incense and smoking pots.

While we settled in to observe we were surrounded by dozens of boats trying to gain a good view of the proceedings. A larger boat came by ours and was filled with a large family who were there to celebrate the 25 th anniversary of their parents. They, and many of the occupants of the other boats, floated tins of marigolds with candles into the Ganges. Much like floating vigil light.

After the ceremony our boatman returned us up the river to our starting point and we walked back to our bus to go back to our hotel. We were o our own for a late dinner and we went to coffee shop and ordered a small pizza. By now it was nine o'clock, we were tired, and we needed to get out to our bus at 5:30 o'clock in the morning.

Sunday, February 07

Our early morning adventure was to return to the Ganges to observe the morning prayer ritual. This would be unique as only recently women are allowed to become priests and lead the prayers. We were a bit early and the group stopped by a vendor on one of the steps who was selling tea. About half of the group tasted the sweet, beige tea as we observed homeless people laying on to roadway and the steps.

We heard the chanting about half a block from where we were standing and were able to join in and observe the women leading the prayers. We only caught the last few minutes of the ceremony and then took seats near a stage where a well known Indian singer was accompanied by musicians with a harmonium, drum, and sitar.

We walked back to where we had sampled tea on the steps and watched a street barber shave his customer in the very dim light of early morning. Then we walked down to the river to meet our boatmen of last evening. They set out back upriver and we watched as we saw bathers take their morning ablutions with the sunrise. Further there were clothes being washed in the river and laid out on the ghats to dry.

230 Vendors selling souvenirs came and tied up on both sides of our boat and we continued to move against the current with their floating shops. Dav had purchased some of the tins with candles to we could participate in the morning "Puja" (prayer). It took a little thought to move back from the higher bow to place them in the water. A few found the reach was too long and they lost their candles in the river as they flipped over from the drop.

Once we had gone far enough we disembarked near a second cremation site. Or at least it was a supply point for cremation. There were no burning bodies but only stacks of wood available for sale for such cremations. We walked up the steps across several ghats and found our bus and drove to our next stop.

Bharat Mata Mandir (Mother India Temple) is located on the Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapith campus in Varanasi. Instead of traditional statues of Gods and Goddesses, this temple has a huge map of undivided India carved in marble. This temple is dedicated to Mother India and claims to be the only one of its kind in the world. Bharat Mata Mandir was constructed in 1936 and was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi.

By now it was time for breakfast and we returned to the hotel by nine o'clock. After a quick meal we returned to our room to clean up and change to be ready for another ride at eleven o'clock. We were going to Sarnath where Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment about 2,500 years ago.

“Sarnath is a city located 13 kilometres north-east of Varanasi near the confluence of the Ganges and the Gomati rivers. The deer park in Sarnath is where Gautama Buddha first taught the Dharma, and where the Buddhist Sangha came into existence through the enlightenment of Kondanna.

Buddhism, in its natural form, is not a religion; rather it is a tradition that focuses on personal spiritual development. Buddhists strive for a deep insight into the true nature of life and do not worship gods or deities.

Buddhism was founded in Northern India by the first known Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, in 6th century BC, after he attained enlightenment and assumed the title Lord Buddha (one who has awakened).

Siddhartha Gautama, later known as Buddha, was a prince of the Sakya tribe of Nepal in approximately 566 BC. At the age of 29, leaving the comforts of his home, he undertook a journey to seek the meaning of the suffering he saw around him. After six years of arduous yogic training, he abandoned the way of self-mortification and instead sat in mindful meditation beneath a bodhi tree. On the full moon day of May, Siddhartha Gautama became the Buddha, the enlightened one.

The Buddha wandered in the plains of northeastern India for over four decades, teaching the path or Dharma he had realized in that moment. Around him developed a community or Sangha of monks and, later, nuns, drawn from various tribes and castes, devoted to practicing this path. In approximately 486 BC, at the age of 80, the Buddha died. His last words are said to be... “Impermanent are all created things; Strive on with awareness.”

231 We walked the grounds of this large monastery and reflected on how many of the monks were able to study at this place at one time. We also walked around the Dhamek Stupa which is said to mark the spot of a deer park where the Buddha gave the first sermon to his five disciples after attaining enlightenment, "revealing his Eight-fold Path leading to nirvana".

Stupas originated as pre-Buddhist tumuli, in which ascetics were buried in a seated position, called chaitya. After the death of the Buddha, his remains were cremated and the ashes divided and buried under eight mounds with two further mounds encasing the urn and the embers. Little is known about these early stupas, particularly since it has not been possible to identify the original ten monuments.

We returned to the hotel and walked next door to the D. P. Silk Corporation. This is a family operated silk weaving company and craft store which goes back several generations. The current owner (manager?) had two looms on display and demonstrated how the punch card ribbons directed the loom operation in conjunction with the artistry of operator to produce unique patterns.

After the demonstration we to a salesroom where the owner flourished pure silk and silk and other cloth samples of cloth. He then priced the different qualities and offered them for purchase. Liz did find a lovely table runner to take home and I believe Jane bought a filigreed box as a souvenir as well.

On the way out of the shop we stopped at a spice store about 25 meters from the hotel entrance. There I purchased some sandalwood oil as an aftershave. There were a few craft items there as well and Jane looked for a Taj Mahal magnet but they did not have one she liked. We went to our rooms to drop off our purchases and then went exploring.

Lunch was not included today so we set out for the JHV Mall 500 meters to the southwest along The

232 Mall / Cantonment Road. We were not really hungry but we went inside the McDonald's simply to confirm there was no beef in this franchise in India. There was not and the place was impressively busy. Next to the entrance but a section separate from the main store was a McDonald's soft ice cream shop and we each enjoyed a small cup.

We then toured the four floor mall out of curiosity. The third floor consisted of a cineplex and was also busily handling customers. On the second floor we entered The Homemaker, a variety shop. I found a Yardley Gentlemen, a sandalwood aftershave lotion, not as viscous as the sandalwood oil, and bought some to take home. We also looked at some kitchenware but dd not find anything unique enough for us to carry it home. Jane did find some Kit Kats to take on the plane and a can of Indian beer to take home to her son, Mark.

That evening we all gathered in the hotel café for dinner. This would be that last time we would enjoy an evening together. We exchanged notes and email addresses and discussed what we had seen and experienced over the past ten days.

Monday, February 08

We got up and dressed in order to go to breakfast before eight o'clock. That was when a new tour group would be back from the dawn services on the Ganges River. They would then crowd the dinning room as we had done yesterday. Then we were on our own until check out time at 12:30. Of course that only continued our waiting time as we would remain in the lobby of the hotel until we loaded the bus to go out to the Varanasi Airport at three o'clock. This would include considerable dead time today.

After breakfast Liz, Jane, and I walked out of the hotel grounds and turned left to explore the next side street. A dozen vendors along the way offered us rides on their auto rickshaws but we only planned to walk. None of us wanted to entertain a “ride” to a possible unknown destination.

Jane was still interested in finding a magnet scene with a picture of the Taj Mahal tagged with “Agra” but was unsuccessful at several shops and even the airport. She did find one at the Dehli airport but it was tagged “India.” Liz found a found another runner in blue. They both bought silk necklaces with woven knots. We also re-walked the side street in the other direction. Then it was time to return to the hotel and set out our luggage... and sit in the lobby for three hours!

0600 Wake up 1825 Dpt to New Dehli Flight 1 hrs 35 Min 2030 Arr Radisson 2345 Dpt to Indira Gandhi Intr Arpt 0310 Dpt to Beijing 1140 Arr Beijing +2.5 hrs time change Flight 8 hrs 30 Min 1600 Dpt Beijing 1120 Arr SFO +16 hrs time change Flight 10 hrs 51 Min 1424 Dpt SFO

233 1625 Arr SEA Flight 2 hrs 01 Min

The waiting time between interior India flights and our departure flight to Beijing required long delays between checking out of our rooms in Varanasi, going to the airport and waiting for our flight to New Delhi and getting to the Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi. By the time we arrived the dinning room was set up for our last dinner. We would have only three hours to eat, clean up, re-pack our luggage for an international flight, and then drive out to the airport shortly before midnight. Others in our group would leave mid-morning or mid afternoon the next day for their destinations. Our flight was at 03:10 hours!

We arrived home after crossing the International Date Line, a few “long” hours after we left. By the time we picked up the car to drive home we had spent thirty six hours “real” hours in transit with only fitful naps on airplanes. We just dropped off luggage in the garage and went into the house. We reset the thermostat and sat in front of the fireplace for an hour and then we went to bed.

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