Pigalle and Montmartre

Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy – starting point

15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins 28 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons 26 rue Lepic – Epicerie du Terroir

35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre D38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de Montmartre

44 rue Lepic – Espace W 42 rue Lepic – A La Pomponette 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta

83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette 11. 85 rue Lepic -- La Divette du Moulin*

11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali

2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee Montmartre)

Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre

51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia

16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave-Moreau

35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere de la Famille 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage Verdeau 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau 6 Passage Verdeau – Librarie Roland Buret Passage Jouffroy – Hotel Chopin

Passage Panoramas 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin

40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps

of Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb stands out. If it is a hot day, this walk is best done in the morning and will last 4+ hours or more As you continue up rue Lepic, to the left you’ll depending on your pace. Go slow and see one of the two remaining windmills of Mont- make a day of it. martre set on top of /H0RXOLQGHOD *DOHWWH83 rue Lepic (see Dining section) at the corner of rue Girardon (01 46 06 84 78) is a lovely place for lunch or dinner and open every Begin at 0pWUR%ODQFKHin the 18th and day. The owners also have a movie theatre travel up the hill on rue Lepic heading north keep- showing art films around the corner. Across the ing the 0RXOLQ5RXJHon your left. We do not street from Le Moulin is recommend going to the Moulin Rouge as it is /D'LYHWWHGX at 98 rue Lepic which is another solid dreadfully tacky but its history is interesting. 0RXOLQ restaurant you might want to book for dinner (01 Pass by the &DIpGHV'HX[0RXOLQVat 15 46 06 34 84). Their Côte de Boeuf is popular. rue Lepic (01 42 54 90 50), from the movie Amélie, and have a coffee if you like. Continue on Lepic and Turn right on rue Norvins then left on rue des Saules to avoid the masses of tourists in the check out the eSLFHULHGX7HUURLU, 28 rue Le- Place du Tertre, a place we avoid like the pic, which is good for specialty food gifts at the cor- plague, but if you want to take a detour then ner of rue Véron. The artisanal tartes at /HV venture in at 11 rue Poulbot 3HWLWV0LWURQV, 26 rue Lepic, are worth mention- (VSDFH'DOL it is worth a look (take a right just before you ing. Follow Lepic up to the left as you come to rue enter the square and follow the signs). This is des Abbesses; if you turn right on Rue des Abbesses not a spectacular museum, but a fun stop if you you’ll find some wonderful bars such as /H6DQ are a Dali fan. Otherwise continue down rue FHUUHat 35 rue des Abbesses (01 42 58 08 20) and des Saules until you reach rue Saint-Vincent interesting food shops on this market street. At 38 where you’ll see the last of the remaining grape rue des Abesses you’ll find D/H*UHQLHUj vines in Montmartre. These are the vines they 3DLQ, 2010 winner of the Grand Prix for best ba- harvest and celebrate during the guette in Paris. Plus there is a notable Arts and )rWHGHV in October. Turn right here, noting Crafts style church at 19 and 21 rue des Abbesses 9HQGDQJHV the beautifully picturesque /D0DLVRQ called 6DLQW-HDQGH0RQWPDUWUH. Le San- restaurant on your left at 2 rue Abreuvoir cerre stays open very late so you can join the fun 5RVH later on. But if you don’t have extra time for the (01 42 57 66 75), which we hear is quite nice. Also across the street from the small vineyard is diversion, continue up Lepic to the left, passing 22 rue des Saules (01 44 Lepic, which is a cutting edge art gallery called $X/DSLQ$JLOH 46 06 85 87) a venue famous for its patrons (VSDFH:. (Picasso and Modigliani) and old-fashioned OD3RPSRQHWWHat 42 (01 46 06 08 36) & cabaret music (think Edith Piaf). /D5XJKHWWDat 41 (01 42 23 41 70) are fairly good restaurants worth noting on Lepic if you want Continue along Saint Vincent stopping if you like at the at 12 to come back for dinner. As you turn and begin 0RQWPDUWUH0XVHXP rue Cortot, with another entrance on Saint- marching up the big hill, you’ll see the top of Vincent. The museum which houses the history 6DFUp&±XU(the famous church on the mount). of Montmartre is not going to blow you away, At the corner of Lepic and rue Tholozé look to your but the garden is lovely and it’s a nice respite right for a wonderful view of Paris. The gold dome from the tourists. Stay on St. Vincent until it

ends and take a right at rue de la Bonne and you’ll rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette to the Musée de la see the 6DFUp&±XU. Take another right at Vie Romantique at 16 rue Chaptal (01 55 31 95 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre and left on Cardinal 67). Rue Chaptal will be off to your left just after Guibert to enter the church. Depending on the sea- you come to rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle where son, cool off or warm up in this impressive cathe- the road forks. The museum was the home of dral, built from 1875 - 1914 in the Romano- Ary Scheffer and a frequent stop for the writer Byzantine style. George Sand. It gives you an idea of what life was like during the 1830’s but it’s not a must- Exit the church and behold the most amazing view see unless you are visiting in good weather of the entire city of Paris. Follow the hordes of peo- when the garden café is open. The outdoor café ple down the stairs on either the right or left side is an absolute delight. ending up at rue St. Pierre where you’ll take a left. Note: Be careful here of men trying to sell you Exit the museum to the right and turn left on rue bracelets. Walk away from them if they do as their Blanche. Follow this street down until you can method of putting a bracelet on you and then de- turn onto Rue de la Tour des Dames which you manding payment is a bit too aggressive for our will follow until it dead-ends. 0XVpH*XV liking. Take another left at rue Ronsard if you would WDYH0RUHDX is on Rue de La Rochefoucauld like to visit +DOOH6W3LHUUH at 2 rue Ron- at number 14 (01 48 74 38 50), which you sard (01 42 58 72 89), which is dedicated to emerg- should see to your left. This museum is worth ing artists. The little café here is a nice place to visiting in winter or summer as it is both an hide from the crowds near the church and have a atelier full of the French symbolist painter’s quick tea or lemonade. Exit left out of the Halle and work as well as his home. The furnishings and turn down rue Seveste and take a right on rue his artifacts are in place and well preserved and d’Orsel. This street has some cute shops further really give you a feel of Paris in the late 1800’s. down. Take note of the lovely Theatre at Place A visit will have you in and out in under an hour. Dullin. Follow d’Orsel until rue des Martyrs where you’ll turn left. Continue on Martyrs, which is one of Exit the museum to the left, and take another our favorite streets, as you enter the 9th passing left on Rue St. Lazare until you reach the across Boulevard Clichy. church again (Notre-Dame de Lorette) which is worthy of a quick visit although the church’s ex- On Martyrs you can lunch at O·(SLFHULH terior could use some renovation. Cross the )X[LDat 51, which is a charming little Italian place. Place here to find rue du Faubourg-Montmartre. Here you can order a plate of mixed antipasti and Down this street is OD0qUHGHOD)D charcuterie or sardines and octopus, knocking it PLOOHat 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, down with a glass of Italian wine. For fancier dining, which is a famous old candy and chocolate the same owners have another Italian restaurant shop for gifts ‘extraordinaire’. further down the street at 25 rue des Martyrs called simply )X[LD. Follow the rue until you reach 3DVVDJH 9HUGHDX at 31 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre Perhaps you’d like to wait to lunch in the garden (if (04 47 70 83 69), which is one of the old pas- it’s nice out) at 0XVpHGHOD9LH5RPDQ sages couverts (covered passageways). This WLTXH, which isn’t too far away. To get there, con- one was built in 1847. Shop for antique chil- tinue along Martyrs until it ends at l’Église Notre- dren’s books at /LEUDULH5RODQG%XUHW Dame-de-Lorette. Turn slightly right here and take 6 Passage Verdeau. Continue through Verdeau

until you enter Passage Jouffroy which hosts 6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de mainly bookstores but where you can find the well Montmartre known 3KRWR9HUGHDXat #47 (it recently 7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W moved to Jouffroy from Verdeau) (01 47 70 51 8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pompnette 91) . Also note the charming little +{WHO&KR SLQif you are looking for a quaint if simple room. 9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta Follow this Passage until it ends and cross the 10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette Blvd Montmartre into the final Passage and the oldest of them all, named 3DQRUDPDVbuilt 11. 98 rue Lepic – La Divette du Moulin in 1799-1800. This passage is home to restau- 12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali rants and cafés. Two are particularly noteworthy — /H9DOHQWLQfor tea at number 30 or 13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose at number 8, which offers a wide selec- 5DFLQHV 14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile tion of organic wines and Italian charcuterie plus a small selection of market choices each day. This 15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee place is a find. Reserve for dinner if you like (01 Montmartre) 40 13 06 41). 16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur

Exit the Panoramas onto the Blvd Montmartre and 17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre end your day on a very kitsch note if you are the 18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia type, and go to the 0XVpH*UHYLQ(the wax museum) at 10 Boulevard Montmartre. This is a 19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia place we would avoid like the plague, but it can be 20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique fun if you’ve got kids along. The metro station 21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave- Grands Boulevards is right nearby. If you still have Moreau energy you can turn right onto Blvd Montmartre which turns into Blvd Haussmann and hit 22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere *DOHULHV/DID\HWWH, 40 Boulevard Haussmann de la Famille and 3ULQWHPSVat 64 Blvd. Haussmann for 23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage a bit of department store shopping. Verdeau

24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau

25. 6 Passage Verdeau - Librarie Roland Buret 3RLQWVRI,QWHUHVW$GGUHVVHV 26. Passage Jouffroy - Hotel Chopin 1. Begin at Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy 27. Passage Panoramas

2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins 28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin

3. 28 rue Lepic - Epicerie du Terroir 29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines

4. 26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons 30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin

5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre 31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette

5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain 32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps