Friuli Venezia Giulia
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Trieste © Lonely Planet Lonely © Giulie Alps Udine Palmanova
del Friuli San Daniele
Sacile AREA : 7845 SQ KM 7845 : AREA
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Sample one of Italy’s – and the world’s – finest hams in San Daniele del Friuli cured Unravel the intricacies of the Friulian language Unravel in multifarious Udine and culture Uncover a less-frenetic version of Venice in of Venice version a less-frenetic Uncover watery Say ‘good morning’ in three different lan different Say ‘good morning’ in three guages while hiking in the magnificent Giulie Alps Seek out the literary ghosts of Joyce, Saba Seek out the literary of in the Viennese-style cafes and Svevo Trieste Walk along the star-shaped rampartsWalk along the star-shaped of heavily fortified Palmanova
POPULATION: 1.2 MILLION POPULATION:
HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Contrarians keen to draw up an alternative Italian wish list should include hiking around Contrarians keen to draw up an alternative Bordered by Austria, Slovenia and the Italian region of Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia is an Friuli Venezia Veneto, of and the Italian region Slovenia by Austria, Bordered One of Italy’s five semi-autonomous regions, Friuli Venezia Giulia has its spiritual home in Friuli Venezia regions, semi-autonomous One of Italy’s five While Friuli’s culture may not be as internationally renowned as that of Rome or Venice, as that of Rome or Venice, renowned may not be as internationally While Friuli’s culture
world-class glass of white wine underneath the Venetian arches of Udine. Udine. arches of wine underneath the Venetian world-class glass of white Tarvisio, some beach time in sunny Grado, a cup of Illy coffee in enigmatic Trieste and a in enigmatic Trieste some beach time in sunny Grado, a cup of Illy coffee Tarvisio, pography dominating the land around Trieste in the east. pography dominating the land around Trieste guarding the northern borders, Venetian-like lagoons in the south and a curious karstguarding the northern to borders, Venetian-like eclectic region, and the physical terrain is equally varied, with the Giulie and Carnic Alps is equally varied, with the Giulie and Carnic and the physical terrain eclectic region, rule), Cividale del Friuli (under the Lombards) and ultimately Udine (under the Venetians). Udine (under the Venetians). and ultimately rule), Cividale del Friuli (under the Lombards) cultural melting pot, added in 1920. Friuli’s early power was anchored in Aquileia (under Roman in Aquileia (under Roman in 1920. Friuli’s early power was anchored cultural melting pot, added Udine and its administrative capital in Trieste. However, Trieste is a relative newcomer to this is a relative Trieste However, in Trieste. capital Udine and its administrative and three different dialects. dialects. different and three language, Friulian, a Romance tongue related to Ladin with about 600,000 native speakers to Ladin with about 600,000 native tongue related language, Friulian, a Romance pong history and plethora of jealously guarded traditions. The region even has its own even region The of jealously guarded traditions. pong history and plethora its underlying essence is no less potent, and this is reflected in its complex cuisine, ping in its and this is reflected is no less potent, its underlying essence off the influences of numerous meddling outsiders and developed a flavour of its own. a flavour meddling outsiders and developed off the influences of numerous turbed by the lack of fawning visitors, this far-from-boring northeastern corner has shrugged visitors, this far-from-boring turbed by the lack of fawning largely peripheral enclave that fits rather awkwardly into the modern Italian mix. But, unper that fits rather awkwardly into the modern enclave peripheral largely Friuli Venezia Giulia is the hardest of the country’s 20 regions to nail down, an overlooked and nail down, an overlooked to 20 regions is the hardest of the country’s Giulia Friuli Venezia Friuli Venezia Giulia FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA single native namethatanyoneknows’,yetit cuisine,hardlya melody, nounmistakable forgettable landmark,nouniversally familiar writer Jan Morrisonceopined,‘offers noun New Yorkorsomewhere Trieste, else. astravel with hundreds like himdreaming of Dublin, bars,buffet jointswhere along Joyceoncesat desiècleits famousfin coffee shopsanddark travellers out first viewing.Extra-savvy seek ous lackof intimacy,Trieste rarely inspires on the coast7kmtonorth. diMiramarehome, therhapsodicCastello on Maximillian I,constructed anill-fated dream earlier doomedHabsburg Emperorof Mexico, early chapters of camped here intheearly1900sanddrafted the undergoing James identitycrises. Joycede escape hatch forexiles,misfitsandwriters as an a nowhere landthat haslongserved peripheral totherest of peninsula– theItalian and theAdriatic,cityfeels isolated and plateau andalmostsurroundedbySlovenia after WWI.Scattered across athinkarstic it washandedover toanascendantRome until Austro-Hungary’s soleoutlettothesea legacyoftalgic as Mitteleuropa thatserved is oneof mostcrypticcities,anos Italy’s historicbutnotlegendary;not sad, Trieste melancholyGrand butnotspectacular, 402 pp 205,526 pop TRIESTE With itschilling FRIULI VENEZIAGIULIA OUR TOPFIVESMALL TOWNSIN
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA •• Trieste Trieste •• FRIULI VENEZIAGIULIA its evocative ruinsandintricate mosaics. of theRomanEmpire thathas laidbare Aquileia ( p415 cornerstone ) One-time peninsula. settlement ontheprimarilySlavicIstria fishing villageandtheonlyItalian Muggia ( p412 ) BeguilingVenetian tri-point ofItaly,Austria andSlovenia. Carnic andGiulie Alpsandclosetothe ern townsandwichedbetweenthe Tarvisio alternativequillity-seeker’s toVenice. asatran rivers andgardensthatserves Sacile ( p417 ) Anattractive melangeof veyor ofoneItaly’sfinestcured hams. centre ofFriulian culture andproudpur San DanieledelFriuli
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Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Mon-Fri, Internet cafe. d’Assisi 15a;per20min €2.50; day) of theUdineand Friulian populace. Venezia Giulia,much(tothis totheirritation ofcapital thesinglemixed region of Friuli (under Alliedcontroluntil1954)wasmade the thencommunistYugoslavia, andTrieste mostofWWII saw Venezia Giuliapassto Udine, PordenoneandCividale).Defeat in the region of maincitiesare Friuli(whose gion of Venezia Giuliawascreated alongside were after assignedtoItaly WWIandthere territory inwhatisnowSlovenia andCroatia accepted theoverlordship of Austria. won itsindependence,butin1382voluntarily 1202, thecityfell totheVenetians. Trieste Byzantines andLombardsfollowedand,in and rapidlybecameawealthyport.TheGoths, colony of Tergeste in178BC wasestablished Argonauts fame).More theRoman prosaically, toTergeste,status acompanionof Jason (of while anotherlegend grantsfounding-father founded byJaphet, sonof thebiblicalNoah, According toonemistylegend, Trieste was History Mail Boxes Etc Boxes Mail Hospital Information di SanGiustoandits15th-century castle. watched over fromthe southeast bytheColle isthe heartofdell’Unità d’Italia thecity, Grande.photogenic ThevastPiazza Canal plateau. TheBorgo Teresiano centres onthe theCarso andtotheeast rises Adriatic Sea edge of town.Tothewestlies the portand areThe busandtrainstations atthenorthern Orientation and the Meaning of Nowhere. writer Jan memoirTrieste Morris’evocative intricacies were revisited in2001travel were premiered inthecity.Trieste’s cultural two of Verdi’s operas Svevo camehere tothinkandwrite, while port. SigmundFreud, James JoyceandItalo Habsburgperous eraforthecosmopolitan else remotelyelse like it in Italy. that –forbetter orworse–there’s nowhere of isolation,orpossiblyit’s thethought sense airandtheall-pervading it’s thebracingsea still somehow sticksinyourmemory.Maybe The 18thand19thcenturieswere apros Trieste (alongwithGorizia)andextensive (
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