1 The Best of Japan

Long ago, Japanese ranked the three best of almost every natural wonder and attraction in their country: the three best gardens, the three best scenic spots, the three best waterfalls, even the three best bridges. But choosing the “best” of anything is inherently subjective, and decades—even centuries—have passed since some of the original “three best” were so designated. Still, lists can be useful for establishing priorities. To help you get the most out of your stay, I’ve compiled this list of what I consider the best Japan has to offer based on years of traveling through the country. From the weird to the wonderful, the profound to the profane, the obvious to the obscure, these recom- mendations should fire your imagination and launch you toward discoveries of your own.

1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Making a Pilgrimage to a Temple or then soaking in near-scalding waters. Shrine: From mountaintop shrines to Hot-spring spas are located almost neighborhood temples, Japan’s religious everywhere in Japan, from Kyushu to structures rank among the nation’s most Hokkaido; see the “Bathing” section popular attractions. Usually devoted to under “Minding Your P’s & Q’s” in a particular deity, they’re visited for chapter 2, and the regional chapters for specific reasons: Shopkeepers call on more information. Fushimi-Inari Shrine outside Kyoto, • Participating in a Festival: With Shin- dedicated to the goddess of rice and toism and Buddhism as its major reli- therefore prosperity, while couples gions, and temples and shrines virtually wishing for a happy marriage head to everywhere, Japan has multiple festivals Kyoto’s Jishu Shrine, a shrine to the every week. These celebrations, which deity of love. Shrines and temples are range from huge processions of wheeled also the sites for Japan’s major festivals. floats to those featuring horseback See chapter 3, the regional chapters, archery and ladder-top acrobatics, can and “The Best Temples & Shrines” sec- be lots of fun; you may want to plan tion, below, for more on Japan’s temples your trip around one (and book early and shrines. for a hotel). See the “Japan Calendar of • Taking a Communal Hot-Spring Bath: Events,” in chapter 3, for a list of some No other people on earth bathe as enthu- of the most popular festivals. siastically,COPYRIGHTED as frequently, and for such • Dining MATERIAL on Japanese Food: There’s duration as Japanese. Their many hot- more to Japanese cuisine than sushi, spring baths—thought to cure all sorts and part of what makes travel here so of ailments as well as simply make you fascinating is the variety of national and feel good—range from elegant, Zen- regional dishes. Every prefecture, it like affairs to rustic outdoor baths with seems, has its own style of noodles, its views of the countryside. No matter special vegetables, and its delicacies. If what the setup, you’ll soon warm to the money is no object, order kaiseki, a ritual of soaping up, rinsing off, and complete meal of visual and culinary

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 2 finesse. See “Eating & Drinking in Kyoto, Kanazawa, Takayama, Hako- Japan,” in chapter 2; the “Where to date, and Okinawa are among my Dine” sections in the regional chapters; favorites. See the “Shopping” sections and “The Best Culinary Experiences,” of the regional chapters for more infor- later in this chapter, for more on Japa- mation. nese food. • Attending a Kabuki Play: Based on • Viewing the Cherry Blossoms: Noth- universal themes and designed to appeal ing symbolizes the approach of spring to the masses, kabuki plays are extrava- so vividly to Japanese as the appearance ganzas of theatrical displays, costumes, of the cherry blossoms—and nothing and scenes—but mostly they’re just plain so amazes visitors as the way Japanese fun. See “Japanese Arts in a Nutshell,” in gather under the blossoms to celebrate chapter 2, and the kabuki section of the season with food, drink, and dance. “Tokyo After Dark,” in chapter 6. See the “Japan Calendar of Events,” in • Strolling Through Tokyo’s Nightlife chapter 3, for cherry blossom details. District: Every major city in Japan has • Riding the Shinkansen Bullet Train: its own nightlife district, but probably Asia’s fastest train whips you across the none is more famous, more wicked, or countryside at more than 290km (180 more varied than Tokyo’s Shinjuku, miles) an hour as you relax, see Japan’s which offers everything from hole-in- rural countryside, and dine on boxed the-wall bars to strip joints, dance 1 meals filled with local specialties. See clubs, and gay clubs. See “Tokyo After “Getting Around Japan,” in chapter 3. Dark,” in chapter 6. • Staying in a Ryokan: Japan’s legendary • Seeing Mount Fuji: It may not seem service reigns supreme in a top-class like much of an accomplishment to see ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. You’ll Japan’s most famous and tallest moun- bathe in a Japanese tub or hot-spring tain, visible from about 150km (100 bath, feast your eyes on lovely views miles) away. But, the truth is, it’s hardly past shoji screens, dine like a king in ever visible, except during the winter your tatami room, and sleep on a futon. months and rare occasions when the air See “Tips on Accommodations” in is clear. Catching your first glimpse of chapter 3 and the “Where to Stay” sec- the giant peak is truly breathtaking and tions in the regional chapters for more something you’ll never forget, whether on ryokan. you see it from aboard the Shinkansen, • Shopping in a Department Store: a Tokyo skyscraper, or a nearby national THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCESTRAVEL BEST THE JAPAN OF BEST THE Japan’s department stores are among the park. If you want to climb it (possible best in the world, offering everything only in July–Aug), be prepared for a from food to designer clothing to elec- group experience—400,000 people tronics to kimono and traditional crafts. climb Mount Fuji every summer. See Service also is among the best in the “Climbing Mount Fuji,” in chapter 7. world: If you arrive when the store • Spending a Few Days in Kyoto: If you opens, staff will be lined up at the front see only one city in Japan, Kyoto should door to bow as you enter. See the be it. Japan’s capital from 794 to 1868, “Shopping” sections throughout this Kyoto is one of Japan’s finest ancient book. cities, boasting some of the country’s • Visiting a Local Market: Tsukiji Fish best temples, Japanese-style inns, tradi- Market, in Tokyo, is Japan’s largest, but tional restaurants, shops, and gardens. there are local seafood and produce See chapter 9 for extensive information markets virtually everywhere. Those in on the city.

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 2 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 3 2 THE BEST TEMPLES & SHRINES

• Meiji Jingu Shrine (Tokyo): Tokyo’s leading to the shrine is lined with pot- most venerable and refined Shinto tery and souvenir shops, and the temple shrine honors Emperor Meiji and his grounds have open-air pavilions, where empress with simple yet dignified archi- you can drink beer or eat noodles. tecture surrounded by a dense forest. Don’t neglect a visit to the smaller Jishu This is a great refuge in the heart of the Shrine on its grounds—it’s dedicated to city. See p. 184. the god of love. See p. 329. • Sensoji Temple (Tokyo): The capital’s • Sanjusangendo Hall (Kyoto): Japan’s oldest temple is also its liveliest. longest wooden building contains the Throngs of visitors and stalls selling spectacular sight of more than 1,000 THE BEST OF JAPAN both traditional and kitschy items lend life-size wood-carved statues, row upon it a festival-like atmosphere. This is the row of the thousand-handed Kannon of most important temple to see in Tokyo. Mercy. See p. 330. See p. 185. • Kinkakuji (Temple of the Golden • Kotokuin Temple (Kamakura): This Pavilion; Kyoto): Constructed in the temple is home to the Great Buddha, 14th century as a shogun’s retirement Japan’s second-largest bronze image, villa, this three-story pavilion shimmers which was cast in the 13th century and in gold leaf and is topped with a bronze sits outdoors against a magnificent phoenix; it’s a beautiful sight when the 1

wooded backdrop. The Buddha’s face sun shines and the sky’s blue. See THE BEST TEMPLES & SHRINES has a wonderful expression of content- p. 331. ment, serenity, and compassion. See • Todaiji Temple (Nara): Japan’s largest p. 232. bronze Buddha sits in the largest • Hase Kannon Temple (Kamakura): wooden structure in the world, making Although this temple is famous for its it the top attraction in this former capi- 9m-tall (30-ft.) Kannon of Mercy, the tal. While not as impressive as the Great largest wooden image in Japan, it’s most Buddha’s dramatic outdoor stage in memorable for its thousands of small Kamakura (see above), the sheer size of statues of Jizo, the guardian deity of Todaiji Temple and its Buddha make children, donated by parents of miscar- this a sight not to be missed if you’re in ried, stillborn, or aborted children. It’s a the Kansai area. See p. 353. rather haunting vision. See p. 234. • Horyuji Temple (Nara): Despite the • Toshogu Shrine (Nikko): Dedicated to fact that Todaiji Temple with its Great Japan’s most powerful shogun, Tokugawa Buddha (see above) gets all the glory, Ieyasu, this World Heritage Site is the true seekers of Buddhist art and history nation’s most elaborate and opulent head to the sacred grounds of Horyuji shrine, made with 2.4 million sheets of Temple with its treasures and ancient gold leaf. It’s set in a forest of cedar in a buildings. See p. 354. national park. See p. 239. • Ise Grand Shrines (Ise): Although • Kiyomizu Temple (Kyoto): One of there’s not much to see, these shrines are Japan’s best-known temples with a the most venerated Shinto shrines in all structure imitated by lesser temples of Japan, and pilgrims have been flock- around the country, Kiyomizu com- ing here for centuries. Amazingly, the mands an exalted spot on a steep hill Inner Shrine, which contains the Sacred with a view over Kyoto. The pathway Mirror, is razed and reconstructed on a

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 3 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 4 new site every 20 years in accordance island called Miyajima, it’s considered with strict rules governing purification one of Japan’s most scenic spots. At in the Shinto religion. Follow the age-old night, the shrine is illuminated. See route of former pilgrims after you visit p. 473. the shrines, and stop for a meal in the • Kotohiragu Shrine (Kotohira, on Shi- nearby Okage Yokocho District. See koku): One of Japan’s oldest and most p. 373. popular shrines beckons at the top of • Myoryuji Temple (Kanazawa): This is a 785 granite steps on the Yashima Pla- temple of a different kind, popularly teau with great views of the Seto Inland known as Ninja-dera and fun to visit Sea, but for most Japanese, it’s the “I because of its hidden stairways, trick made it!” that counts. See p. 481. doors, traps, secret chambers, and other • Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine (Fukuoka): Feudal-Era devices meant to thwart Established in 905 to deify the god of enemy intruders. See p. 387. scholarship, this immensely popular • Itsukushima Shrine (Miyajima): The shrine has a festive atmosphere and is huge red torii (the traditional entry gate popular with students wishing to pass of a shrine), standing in the waters of school exams. The road leading to the the Seto Inland Sea, is one of the most shrine is lined with souvenir and craft photographed landmarks in Japan and shops; the Kyushu National Museum is signals the approach to this shrine. an escalator ride away. See p. 501. 1 Built over the tidal flats on a gem of an

3 THE BEST GARDENS

• Rikugien Garden (Tokyo): It’s not as enclosed by an earthen wall. It is said centrally located as Tokyo’s other gar- that it’s impossible to see all 15 rocks dens, but Rikugien stands out not only from any vantage point; see if you can. for its quintessentially Japanese setting Come early in the morning for some

THE BEST GARDENS BEST THE but JAPAN OF BEST THE also because its vistas are unmarred peaceful meditation and to beat the by surrounding skyscrapers. Created in crowds. See p. 331. 1702 and later donated to the city by • Katsura Imperial Villa (Kyoto): the founder of Mitsubishi, it boasts a Designed by Japan’s most famous gar- strolling path around a pond complete dener, Kobori Enshu, the garden sur- with islets, teahouses, and arched rounding this imperial villa is, in my bridges. See p. 190. view, Japan’s most beautiful. A “stroll- • Sankeien Garden (Yokohama): His- ing garden,” its view changes with every toric villas, tea arbors, a farmhouse, a step but is always complete, perfectly pagoda, and other authentic buildings, balanced, and in harmony. It’s well all set in a century-old landscaped gar- worth the extra effort involved to see it. den with ponds and streams, make this See p. 341. one of the most interesting and pictur- • Saihoji (Kyoto): Popularly known as esque gardens near the capital. See the Moss Temple, Saihoji boasts Japan’s p. 247. most famous moss garden, with more • Ryoanji Temple (Kyoto): Japan’s most than 100 varieties spread around a famous Zen rock garden, laid out at the pond and giving off an iridescent glow. end of the 15th century, consists of moss- It’s especially beautiful after a rainfall. covered boulders and raked pebbles See p. 342.

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 4 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM • Kenrokuen Garden (Kanazawa): Con- and incorporates the surrounding hills 5 sidered by some to be Japan’s grandest and Okayama Castle into its design. It’s landscape garden (and rated one of the definitely worth a visit if you’re in the “three best”), Kenrokuen is also one of vicinity, though personally, I like Ken- the largest. The garden took 150 years rokuen (see above) more. See p. 438. to complete and consists of ponds, • Ritsurin Garden (Takamatsu): Dating streams, rocks, mounds, trees, grassy from the 17th century, this former pri- expanses, and footpaths. Best of all, no vate retreat of the ruling Matsudaira tall buildings detract from the views. clan is an exquisite strolling garden that After Katsura (see above), this is my top incorporates Mount Shiun in its land- choice. See p. 383. scaping and boasts 1,400 pine trees and • Koko-en (Himeji): It isn’t old (it was 350 cherry trees. Stop for tea in the laid out in 1992), but this is a wonder- Feudal-Era teahouse and contemplate THE BEST OF JAPAN ful surprise package of nine small gar- the view at leisure. See p. 479. dens, each one different but typical of • Sengan-en (Kagoshima): Laid out gardens during the Edo Period, which more than 300 years ago by the Shi- lasted from 1603 to 1867. Upon seeing madzu clan, this summer retreat with a what can be accomplished with skill 25-room villa was known for its poem- and money in little more than 18 years, composing parties, held beside a rivulet some gardeners may turn green with that still exists. After touring the garden envy. See p. 434. and villa, be sure to visit the nearby 1 • Korakuen Garden (Okayama): Rated museum with relics belonging to the

one of Japan’s three most beautiful gar- Shimadzu family. This garden is one of THE BEST CASTLES, PALACES & VILLAS dens, Korakuen was completed in 1700 my favorites. See p. 537.

4 THE BEST CASTLES, PALACES & VILLAS

• Tamozawa Imperial Villa (Nikko): guides stand ready for personal tours. Comprised of a 1632 villa and an 1899 See p. 268. expansion, this 106-room villa was the • Nijo Castle (Kyoto): One of the few home of a prince who later became castles built by the mighty Tokugawa emperor. You can learn about tradi- shogunate as a residence rather than for tional Japanese architectural details and defense, Nijo Castle is where the sho- lifestyles of the aristocracy on self- gun stayed whenever he was in Kyoto. guided tours, and unlike Japan’s other It’s famous for its nightingale (creaking) imperial villas, it does not require a floorboards that warned of enemy reservation. See p. 240. intruders. The castle is considered the • Matsumoto Castle (Matsumoto): Pop- quintessence of Momoyama architec- ularly known as the Crow Castle due to ture. See p. 327. its black color, this small castle boasts • Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto): Home the oldest donjon (keep) in Japan (more to Japan’s imperial family from the 14th than 400 years old). A moon-viewing to the 19th centuries, this palace is room was added in 1635, and exhibited praised for its Heian design and grace- inside the castle is a superb collection of ful garden. Good news for travelers: Japanese matchlocks and samurai armor Guided tours of the palace are free. See dating from the mid–16th century p. 326. through the Edo Period. Volunteer

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 5 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 6 • Katsura Imperial Villa (Kyoto): Built • Matsuyama Castle (Matsuyama): Occu- in the 1600s by a brother of the pying a hill above the city, this 400-year- emperor, this villa and garden are con- old fortress boasts good views over sidered to be among the best—if not Matsuyama from its three-story donjon the best—in traditional architecture as well as a collection of armor and and landscape gardening. More than swords of the Matsudaira clan. See anyplace else, the villa illustrates the life p. 489. of refinement enjoyed by 17th-century • Kumamoto Castle (Kumamoto): nobility, when leisurely pursuits Although a ferroconcrete reconstruc- included such activities as moon view- tion not nearly as huge as the original, ing. See p. 341. this massive castle is still an impressive • Himeji Castle (Himeji): Said to resem- sight, especially at night when it’s illu- ble a white heron poised in flight over minated. It’s famous for its curved the plains, this is quite simply Japan’s walls, which made invasion virtually most beautiful castle. With its extensive impossible. The interior houses a gates, moats, turrets, and maze of pas- museum with palanquins, armor, sageways, this UNESCO World Heri- swords, and other artifacts of the for- tage Site has survived virtually intact mer ruling clans. See p. 527. since feudal times. If you see only one • Shuri Castle (Okinawa Island): One of castle in Japan, make this the one. See nine historic structures in Okinawa that 1 p. 433. collectively make up a World Heritage • Matsue Castle (Matsue): This 17th- Site, this castle with Chinese and Japa- century castle features a five-story don- nese influences was the center of the jon with samurai gear and artifacts Ryukyu Kingdom, which thrived for belonging to the ruling Matsudaira about 500 years. See p. 561. clan, with many Edo-Era attractions just outside its moat. See p. 453.

THE BEST MUSEUMS BEST THE JAPAN OF BEST THE 5 THE BEST MUSEUMS

• Edo-Tokyo Museum (Tokyo): Housed best place in Japan to view Japanese in a high-tech modern building, this antiques and decorative objects. If you ambitious museum chronicles the fasci- visit only one museum in Japan, this nating and somewhat tumultuous his- should be it. See p. 186. tory of Tokyo (known as Edo during • Hakone Open-Air Museum (Cho- the Feudal Era) with models, replicas, koku-no-Mori, Hakone): Beautifully artifacts, and dioramas. Volunteers landscaped grounds and spectacular stand ready to give free guided tours in scenery showcase approximately 400 English. See p. 180. 20th-century sculptures, from Giacomo • Tokyo National Museum (Tokyo): and Rodin to Henry Moore. Here, too, Even professed museumphobes should is the Picasso Pavilion, housing 200 of make a point of visiting the National the artist’s works. See p. 254. Museum, the largest repository of Japa- • Japan Ukiyo-e Museum (Matsumoto): nese arts in the world. Lacquerware, One of the best woodblock-print muse- china, kimono, samurai armor, swords, ums in Japan, this museum displays the woodblock prints, religious art, and largest collection of prints in the world more are on display, making this the

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 6 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM on a rotating basis. A must-see in Mat- • Disaster Reduction Museum (Kobe): 7 sumoto. See p. 269. You can’t tell by its name, but this excel- • Hida Folk Village (Takayama): Pictur- lent museum is devoted to Kobe’s 1995 esquely situated around a pond with earthquake, with films, dioramas, and flowers, more than 30 shingled and exhibits detailing the city’s destruction thatched farmhouses—many trans- and rebirth. See p. 421. ported from the surrounding Japan • Ohara Museum of Art (Kurashiki): Alps—are filled with farm implements Founded in 1930, this museum just keeps and objects of daily life, providing fasci- getting bigger and better, with works by nating insight into the life and times of both Western and Japanese greats spread the extended families that once inhab- throughout several buildings. Its location ited them. See p. 278. in the picturesque Kurashiki historic dis- • Museum Meiji Mura (Nagoya): This trict is a bonus. See p. 446. THE BEST OF JAPAN open-air architectural museum is an • Adachi Museum (Matsue): This absolute treasure, with more than 60 museum near Matsue combines two of original buildings and structures dating my passions—art and gardens—mak- from the Meiji Period situated on 100 ing it a winner. Japanese modern art is hectares (250 acres) that are beautifully the focus indoors, while the perfectly landscaped on the shore of a lake. landscaped garden—one of Japan’s Western-style homes, churches, a best—comes into view through framed kabuki theater, a bathhouse, a prison, a windows, making it part of the art in a 1 brewery, and much more are open for very surreal way. See p. 456.

viewing and filled with furniture and • Peace Memorial Museum (Hiro- THE BEST NATIONAL PARKS household items. Mail a postcard from shima): Japan’s most thought-provok- an authentic post office, buy candy ing museum contains exhibits from an old candy store, and drink tea examining Hiroshima’s militaristic past, in the lobby of the original Imperial the events leading up to the explosion Hotel, which was designed by Frank of the world’s first atomic bomb, the Lloyd Wright. See p. 365. city’s terrible destruction, and its active • Ishikawa Prefectural Museum for antinuclear movement. See p. 464. Traditional Products and Crafts • Benesse Art Site Naoshima (Taka- (Kanazawa): Kanazawa is famous for its matsu): This is not a single museum, handcrafted items, including gold leaf, but rather an island in the Seto Inland umbrellas, stringed instruments, Bud- Sea that’s devoted to cutting-edge art, dhist altars, pottery, and more. English- with two museums (both designed by language explanations and an audio Tadao Ando) and interactive art instal- guide explain how they’re made. See lations in traditional Japanese build- p. 384. ings. There’s no other place in Japan quite like this. See p. 482.

6 THE BEST NATIONAL PARKS

• Nikko National Park: This 80,000- • Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park: hectare (200,000-acre) national park Boasting magnificent Mount Fuji at its centers on the sumptuous Toshogu core, this popular weekend getaway Shrine with its mausoleum for Tokugawa beckons vacationing Tokyoites with its Ieyasu, majestic cedars, and lakeside many hot-spring spas, stunning close- resorts. See p. 236. up views of Mount Fuji, sparkling

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 7 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 8 lakes, historic attractions relating to the • Unzen-Amakusa National Park: At famous Feudal-Era Tokaido Highway, western Kyushu’s high-altitude national and coastal areas of Izu Peninsula. One park, you can climb Mount Fugen of the best ways to see Hakone is via a (1,360m/4,462 ft. above sea level), relax circular route that involves travel on a in a hot-spring bath, and take a walk two-car mountain streetcar, a cable car, through the Hells, the park’s extra- a ropeway, and a boat; the delightful steamy sulfur springs. See p. 521. journey offers wonderful scenery and • Iriomote National Park: Japan’s south- interesting sights along the way. See ernmost national park includes Irio- p. 251. mote Island, 80% of which is blanketed • Japan Alps (Chubu Sangaku) National with subtropical forest and mangroves, Park: Encompassing Honshu’s most as well as coral reefs and coastline. Part impressive mountain ranges and the site of the Okinawan island chain, it’s a of the 1998 Winter Olympics, this mecca for nature enthusiasts and scuba national park offers skiing and hiking as divers alike. See p. 570. well as unique villages worth a visit in • Towada-Hachimantai National Park: their own right. See p. 265. Tohoku’s most popular park beckons • Ise-Shima National Park: Boasting a with scenic lakes, rustic hot-spring spas, rugged seascape of capes, inlets, and hiking, and skiing. See p. 585. islets, this park is the birthplace of cul- • Shikotsu-Toya National Park: This 1 tivated pearls. It’s famous for its bays 987-sq.-km (381-sq.-mile) park in east- dotted with pearl-cultivating oyster ern Hokkaido encompasses lakes, volca- rafts, its female divers, a pearl museum, noes, and famous hot-spring resorts plus a top-notch aquarium and the Ise such as Noboribetsu. See p. 612. Grand Shrines, Japan’s most venerable • Daisetsuzan National Park: The larg- shrines. Two theme parks are also est of Japan’s 28 national parks—and located here. See p. 372. some say Hokkaido’s most beautiful— • Seto-Naikai (Inland Sea) National Daisetsuzan boasts three volcanic Park: Covering 650 sq. km (251 sq. chains, fir- and birch-covered hillsides, miles) of water, islands, islets, and impressive Sounkyo Gorge, and plenty coastline, this sea park stretches from of skiing and hiking opportunities. See Kobe in the east to Beppu in the west. p. 618. THE BEST NATIONAL PARKS NATIONAL BEST THE It’s JAPAN OF BEST THE studded with numerous islands of • Akan National Park: Popular for hik- all sizes, the most famous of which is ing, skiing, canoeing, and fishing, Akan Miyajima, home of the Itsukushima National Park in Hokkaido is character- Shrine. Cruises ply the waters of the ized by dense forests of subarctic prime- Seto Inland Sea, as do regular ferries val trees and caldera lakes, the most sailing between Honshu, Shikoku, and famous of which are Kussharo, one of Kyushu. The adventuresome can even Japan’s largest mountain lakes, and cycle across the Seto Inland Sea via the Mashu, considered one of Japan’s least- Shimanami Kaido route linking Hon- spoiled lakes and one of the world’s shu with Shikoku (see “The Best Out- clearest. See p. 622. door Adventures,” below). See p. 472.

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 8 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 9 7 THE BEST OF OLD JAPAN

• Splurging on a Night in a Ryokan: If carried out in teahouses throughout the you can afford to, splurge on at least 1 country, including those set in Japan’s night in one of the country’s best ryo- many parks and gardens. Several Tokyo kan, where the service is impeccable, hotels offer English-language instruction the kaiseki meals are out of this world, in the tea ceremony, but my favorite and glorious views outside your tatami locale is Gyokusen-en in Kanazawa. See room are of miniature landscaped gar- p. 188 and 384. dens. You’ll be pampered in a manner • Getting a Shiatsu Massage: Shiatsu, or befitting an emperor; many of the pressure-point massage, is available in nation’s oldest ryokan were indeed born virtually all first-class accommodations THE BEST OF JAPAN to serve members of the imperial court in Japan and at most moderately priced and feudal lords as they traveled Japan’s ones as well. After a hard day of work or highways. See “Tips on Accommoda- sightseeing, nothing beats a relaxing tions,” in chapter 3; the “Where to massage in the privacy of your room. Stay” sections in the regional chapters; • Relaxing at a Hot-Spring Resort: No and “The Best Traditional Ryokan,” country in the world boasts more natu- below. ral hot springs than Japan, which has • Attending a Sumo Match: There’s 19,500 different springs. Hot-spring 1 nothing quite like watching two mon- spas are found in virtually all regions of

strous sumo wrestlers square off, bluff, the country and feature everything THE BEST OF OLD JAPAN and grapple as they attempt to throw from hot-sand baths to open-air baths. each other on the ground or out of the See the regional chapters for more ring. Matches are great cultural events, information. but even if you can’t attend one, you • Spending a Day in Asakusa (Tokyo): can watch them on TV during one of Asakusa is the best place to experience six annual 15-day tournaments. For Tokyo’s old downtown, with its popular more information, see “Spectator Sensoji Temple, Nakamise shopping Sports,” in chapter 6, and “Sumo,” in lane with crafts and kitsch, and casual chapter 2. traditional restaurants. As in days of • Strolling Through a Japanese Garden: yore, arrive by boat on the Sumida Most of Japan’s famous gardens are rel- River. See chapter 6. ics of the Edo Period, when the shogun, • Exploring Kyoto’s Higashiyama-ku daimyo (feudal lords), imperial family, District: Kyoto’s eastern sector is a lovely and even samurai and Buddhist priests combination of wooded hills, temples, developed private gardens for their own shrines, museums, shops, and traditional viewing pleasure. Each step in a stroll- restaurants, making it one of the best ing garden brings a new view to die for. neighborhoods in Japan for a stroll. See See “The Best Gardens,” earlier in this “Walking Tour 1: A Stroll Through chapter, and the attractions sections in Higashiyama-ku,” in chapter 9. the regional chapters to see which are • Watching Cormorant Fishing: Every heaven on earth. night in summer, wooden boats gaily • Attending a Traditional Tea Cere- decorated with paper lanterns will take mony: Developed in the 16th century as you out on rivers outside Nagoya for an a means to achieve inner harmony with up-close look at cormorant fishing. The nature, the highly ritualized ceremony is birds, maneuvered by fishermen in

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 9 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 10 traditional garb, have tight collars followers have followed him to their around their necks to prevent them graves—and now tomb after tomb lines from swallowing their catch. Drinking a 1.5km (1-mile) pathway to Daishi’s and dining on board contribute to the mausoleum. Cypress trees, moss-cov- festive air. See p. 365. ered stone lanterns, and thousands • Walking to Kobo Daishi’s Mauso- upon thousands of tombs make this the leum on Mount Koya: Ever since the most impressive graveyard stroll in 9th century, when Buddhist leader Japan, especially at night. See “Explor- Kobo Daishi was laid to rest at Oku- ing Mount Koya,” in chapter 10. noin on Mount Koya, his faithful

8 THE BEST OF MODERN JAPAN

• Visiting Tsukiji Fish Market: One of the never-ending parade of humanity. the largest wholesale fish markets in the See “Walking Tour 2: In the Heart of world, this indoor market bustles with Trendy Tokyo, A Stroll Through Hara- activity from about 3am on as frozen juku & Aoyama,” in chapter 6. tuna is unloaded from boats, auctions • Shopping for Japanese Designer are held, and vendors sell octopus, fish, Clothes: Japanese designer clothing is 1 squid, and everything else from the sea often outrageous, occasionally practical, that’s edible to the city’s restaurants. Be but mostly just fun. Department stores sure to bring your camera. See p. 186. and designer boutiques in Aoyama are • Attending a Baseball Game: After the places to try on the styles if you sumo, baseball is Japan’s most popular have both the money and the figure for spectator sport. Watching a game with them. See “Shopping,” in chapter 6. a stadium full of avid fans can be quite • Spending an Evening in an Entertain- fun and can shed new light on Ameri- ment District: A spin through one of ca’s favorite pastime. See p. 206 and the Japan’s famous nightlife districts, such “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” box, on as Shinjuku or Roppongi in Tokyo or p. 502. Dotombori in Osaka, is a colorful way • Seeing Tokyo from the TMG: On the to rub elbows with the natives as you 45th floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan explore narrow streets with their whirls THE BEST OF MODERN JAPAN MODERN OF BEST THE JAPAN OF BEST THE Government Office (TMG), designed of neon, tiny hole-in-the-wall bars by well-known architect Tange Kenzo, and restaurants, and all-night amuse- an observatory offers a bird’s-eye view ment spots. See “Tokyo After Dark,” in of Shinjuku’s cluster of skyscrapers, the chapter 6, and “Osaka After Dark,” never-ending metropolis, and, on fine in chapter 10. winter days, Mount Fuji. Best of all, it’s • Seeing Fish Eye-to-Eye in an Aquar- free. See p. 195. ium (Nagoya, Toba, Osaka, Kagoshima, • Hanging Out in Harajuku: Nothing Beppu, Okinawa): Because Japan is sur- beats Sunday in Harajuku, where you rounded by sea, it’s no surprise that it has can begin the day leisurely with brunch more than its share of aquariums, many and then stroll the promenade of with innovative displays that put you Omotesando Dori, shop the area’s eye-to-eye with the creatures of the deep. many boutiques, take in a museum and My favorite is the one in Osaka. See perhaps a flea market, and then relax p. 363, 377, 403, 538, 553, and 562. over drinks at a sidewalk cafe and watch

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1010 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 11 9 THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

• Climbing Mount Fuji: Okay, so actually comprises seven bridges and six climbing Japan’s tallest—3,766m-high islands in the Seto Inland Sea and fol- (12,355 ft.)—and most famous moun- lows a well-maintained, dedicated bik- tain is not the solitary, athletic pursuit ing path. See “Cycling the Shimanami you may have envisioned—but with Kaido,” in chapter 11, and “Exploring 400,000 people climbing it annually, Sights of the Seto Inland Sea,” in chap- it’s a great, culturally enriching group ter 10. Another favorite: Cycling activity. Many opt to climb through the through the historic, rural Kibiji Dis- night with a flashlight and then cheer trict in Okayama Prefecture on a path the sunrise from the top of the moun- that takes you past paddies, ancient THE BEST OF JAPAN tain. See “Climbing Mount Fuji,” in burial grounds, temples, and shrines. chapter 7. See p. 492. • Hiking the Old Nakasendo Highway: • Shooting the Kumagawa Rapids: You Back in the days of the shogun, feudal can glide down one of Japan’s most lords were required to return to Edo rapid rivers in a long, traditional (now Tokyo) every other year, traveling wooden boat, powered by men with designated highways. Nakasendo was poles. See “Shooting the Kumagawa one of these highways, and an 8km Rapids,” under “Kumamoto,” in chap- 1 (5-mile) stretch through a valley still ter 12.

exists between the old post towns of • Fishing: Most foreigners laugh when THE BEST TRADITIONAL RYOKAN Magome and Tsumago. It’s a beautiful they see Japanese fishing spots—a walk, and the towns are historic relics. stocked pool in the middle of Tokyo or See p. 274. a cement-banked river, lined elbow to • Skiing in Honshu & Hokkaido: Host elbow with fishermen. For more sport- of two winter Olympics (in Sapporo in ing conditions, head to Lake Akan in 1972 and Nagano in 1998) and riddled Hokkaido’s Akan National Park, with mountain chains, Japan is a great where you can fish for rainbow trout or destination for skiing, the most popular white spotted char. See “Akanko Spa & winter sport in the country, and for Akan National Park,” in chapter 15. snowboarding. The Japan Alps in Cen- • Scuba Diving and Snorkeling: Oki- tral Honshu and the mountains of nawa, an archipelago of 160 subtropical Tohoku and Hokkaido are popular des- islands, is blessed with coral reefs, tinations. See chapters 8, 14, and 15. schools of manta rays, and operators • Cycling: Hard to believe, but you can offering excursions for all levels, not to bike between Shikoku island and Hiro- mention some of the best dive spots in shima Prefecture via the 70km (43- the world. Favorites include the Kerama mile) Shimanami Kaido route, which Islands and Iriomote. See chapter 13.

10 THE BEST TRADITIONAL RYOKAN

• Hiiragiya Ryokan (Kyoto; & 075/ old Kyoto, it’s the ultimate in tatami 221-1136): If ever there was an exam- luxury: a dignified enclave of polished ple of the quintessential ryokan, wood and rooms with antique furnish- Hiiragiya is it. Located in the heart of ings overlooking private gardens. Six

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1111 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 12 generations of the same family have • Iwaso Ryokan (Miyajima; & 0829/44- provided impeccable service and hospi- 2233): The setting here is as romantic tality here since 1861. See p. 304. as any you’ll find in Japan. If you can • Tawaraya (Kyoto; & 075/211-5566): afford it, stay in one of the ryokan’s This venerable inn has been owned and 80-year-old cottages, where you’ll have operated by the same family since it a view of maples and a gurgling brook opened in the first decade of the 1700s; on one of Japan’s most scenic and it’s now in its 11th generation of inn- famous islands. If staying here doesn’t keepers. Located in old Kyoto, its guest make you feel like a samurai or a geisha, list reads like a who’s who of visitors to nothing will. See p. 475. Japan, including Leonard Bernstein, the • Hakusuikan Ryokan (Ibusuki; & 0993/ king of Sweden, Alfred Hitchcock, and 22-3131): I’m usually partial to historic Saul Bellow. See p. 305. Japanese inns, but this sprawling com- • Ryokan Kurashiki (Kurashiki; & 086/ plex right on the coast, with manicured 422-0730): Located right beside the lawns dotted by pine trees, offers an willow-lined canal of Kurashiki’s famous assortment of accommodations (the historic district, this ryokan occupies an oldest building is 45 years old), along old mansion and three 250-year-old with one of the best hot-spring spas I’ve converted warehouses, yet it contains ever seen, modeled after a public bath only five elegant suites, each with a tat- of the Edo Era, as well as a museum 1 ami living room and sleeping quarters filled with antiques. See p. 547. with Western-style beds. See p. 448.

11 THE BEST WESTERNSTYLE HOTELS

• Park Hyatt Tokyo (& 800/233-1234 • Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan- in the U.S. and Canada): Occupying So (& 800/819-5053): Surrounded by the 39th to 52nd floors of a skyscraper a lush, 7-hectare (17-acre) garden, this designed by Tange Kenzo, this gorgeous top-rated hotel is a wonderful respite in property offers stunning views of the one of the world’s most crowded cities, city, one of Tokyo’s hottest restaurants, with its impeccable service and a terrific rooms you could live in, and legendary spa and health club. See p. 132. service. No wonder it was the hotel • Nikko Kanaya Hotel (Nikko; & 0288/ 54-0001): Dating from the 19th cen- THE BEST WESTERNSTYLE HOTELSWESTERNSTYLE BEST THE featured JAPAN OF BEST THE in Lost in Translation. See p. 130. tury, this rambling, old-fashioned hotel • The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo (& 800/241- combines the rustic charm of a Euro- 3333 in the U.S.): Occupying the lofty pean country lodge with design ele- reaches of Tokyo’s tallest building, this ments of old Japan—and it’s just a luxury property in Tokyo Midtown 15-minute walk from Toshogu Shrine. ranks as one of Japan’s best hotels, with See p. 241. Tokyo’s largest rooms and coolest bath- • The Fujiya Hotel (Hakone; & 0460/ rooms (the two sinks and counters are 82-2211): Established in 1878 and at opposite ends, making them perfect nestled on a wooded hillside, the Fujiya for couples). It cocoons guests from the is one of Japan’s oldest, grandest, and mad whirl of central Tokyo, yet Rop- most majestic Western-style hotels. pongi’s hopping nightlife is just outside Resembling a ryokan from the outside, its doors. See p. 132. it boasts a comfortable interior of

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1212 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM detailed woodwork, old-fashioned make this a winner. There’s even an 13 antiques-filled guest rooms, and a annex with Japanese-style rooms as delightful 1930s dining hall. It also well. See p. 311. offers indoor/outdoor pools, extensive • Nara Hotel (Nara; & 0742/26-3300): landscaping, and hot-spring baths. A From far away, this 1909 building just a stay here makes you feel like you’ve short walk from Nara Park resembles a traveled not just to Hakone but to palace. Rooms in the main building another century. See p. 257. have high ceilings, antique light fix- • Shima Kanko Hotel Bay Suites (Ise- tures, and old-fashioned decor. See Shima; & 0599/43-2111): Its secluded p. 355. setting on a hill overlooking a bay, • Unzen Kanko Hotel (Unzen; & 0957/ hushed atmosphere, attentive service, 73-3263): This rustic mountain lodge and Zen-like decor make this 50-suite of ivy-covered wood and stone was built THE BEST OF JAPAN property seem more like a Japanese inn in 1935 to cater to foreigners in search than a hotel. Enjoy the stunning views of Mount Unzen’s cooler climate. It from the rooftop garden or from the offers a casual and relaxed atmosphere, privacy of your own bath or balcony. hot-spring baths, and comfortable, old- See p. 380. fashioned rooms not far from the Hells. • The Westin Miyako (Kyoto; & 800/ See p. 524. 937-8461 in the U.S. and Canada): • Towada Hotel (Lake Towada; & 0176/ First built in 1890 but completely 75-1122): This Japanese-temple-meets- 1 remodeled, this smartly appointed hotel Western-lodge property occupies a

sprawls across more than 6.4 hectares secluded wooded hill overlooking Lake THE BEST AFFORDABLE JAPANESESTYLE PLACES TO STAY (16 acres) of hilltop on the eastern edge Towada. Its oldest wing, built in 1938, of town near many famous temples. was crafted by shrine and temple car- Good views, a free shuttle service from penters. It offers both Japanese- and the train station, indoor/outdoor swim- Western-style rooms, all facing the lake. ming pools, and a Japanese garden See p. 591.

12 THE BEST AFFORDABLE JAPANESESTYLE PLACES TO STAY

• Homeikan (Tokyo; & 03/3811-1181): registered as national cultural assets and Although it’s a bit far from Tokyo’s situated around a river-fed pond, com- main attractions, this is my top pick for prise this sprawling ryokan, in business an affordable, authentic Japanese inn in since 1872. See p. 263. the capital. Rooms do not have private • Ryokan Fujioto (Tsumago; & 0264/ bathrooms, but pluses include a Japa- 57-3009): This 100-year-old inn is nese garden, nice public baths, and nestled back from the main street of detailed tatami rooms adorned with Tsumago, a delightful village on the traditional architectural features. Meals Edo-Era Nakasendo Highway. Meals (optional) are served in your room. feature local specialties, and the father- Another great plus: The owner speaks daughter team running it speaks perfect English. See p. 144. English. See p. 275. • Arai Ryokan (Shuzenji; & 0558/72- • Antique Inn Sumiyoshi (Takayama; 2007): Fifteen historic structures, all & 0577/32-0228): Located in the

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1313 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 14 heart of Takayama on the banks of the at the crack of dawn, head for the reli- Miyagawa River, this 90-year-old for- gious sanctuary atop Mount Koya, mer silkworm factory features an irori where some 50 Buddhist temples offer (open-hearth fireplace) in the high- tatami accommodations—some with ceilinged communal room, antiques garden views—and two vegetarian and painted screens throughout, and meals a day. See “The Temples of simple but delightfully old-fashioned Mount Koya” in chapter 10. tatami rooms overlooking the river. See • Miyajima Morinoyado (Miyajima; p. 281. & 0829/44-0430): This public peo- • Minshuku in Shirakawago’s Ogima- ple’s lodge, on picturesque Miyajima, is chi: Nestled in a narrow valley of the modern yet traditional and would easily Japan Alps, Ogimachi is a small village cost four times as much if it were pri- of paddies, flowers, irrigation canals, vately owned. See p. 475. and 200-year-old thatched farmhouses, • Tsuru-no-yu Onsen (Nyuto Onsen; about two dozen of which offer simple & 0187/46-2139): This rustic inn, tatami accommodations and meals fea- with a history stretching back to the turing local cuisine. This is a great, Edo Period, thatched-roof building, inexpensive escape. See “Rural Shi- and outdoor hot-spring baths, is as rakawa-go & Ogimachi” in chapter 8. close as you can get to time travel. To • Temple Accommodations on Mount really save money, opt for the self- 1 Koya: If your vision of Japan includes cooking wing and prepare your own temples, towering cypress trees, shaven- meals. See p. 588. headed monks, and religious chanting

13 THE BEST CULINARY EXPERIENCES

• Experiencing a Kaiseki Feast: The most famous is Inakaya in Tokyo, ultimate in Japanese cuisine, kaiseki is a where diners sit at a counter; on the feast for the senses and spirit. Consist- other side are two cooks, grills, and ing of a variety of exquisitely prepared mountains of food. You’ll love the and arranged dishes, a kaiseki meal is a drama of this place. See p. 170 as well multicourse event to be savored slowly. as “Eating & Drinking in Japan,” in Both the ingredients and the dishes chapter 2.

THE BEST CULINARY EXPERIENCES CULINARY BEST THE they JAPAN OF BEST THE comprise are chosen with great • Dining on Western Food in Modern care to complement the season. There Settings: Japan has no lack of great are hundreds of exceptional kaiseki res- Western food, and some of the best taurants in Japan, from old-world tradi- places to dine are its first-class hotels. tional to sleek modern; a standout is The New York Grill, on the 52nd floor Kagetsu in Nagasaki. Traditional ryo- of the Park Hyatt in Tokyo, epitomizes kan also serve kaiseki. See p. 518 as the best of the West with its sophisti- well as “Eating & Drinking In Japan,” cated setting, great views, great food, chapter 2. and great jazz. See p. 162. • Spending an Evening in a Robatay- • Buying Prepared Meals at a Depart- aki: Harking back to the olden days ment Store: The basement floors of when Japanese cooked over an open department stores are almost always fireplace, a robatayaki is a convivial devoted to foodstuffs, including take- place for a meal and drinks. One of the out foods. Shopping for your meal is a

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1414 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM fun experience: Hawkers yell their Kamakura. See p. 235 as well as “Eating 15 wares, samples are set out for you to & Drinking in Japan,” in chapter 2, and nibble, and you can choose anything the “Where to Dine” sections in from tempura and sushi to boxed meals. regional chapters. See chapter 6, the regional chapters, • Rubbing Elbows in a Izakaya: Izakaya and “Eating & Drinking in Japan,” in are pubs in Japan—usually tiny affairs chapter 2. with just a counter, serving up skewered • Slurping Noodles in a Noodle Shop: grilled chicken, fish, and other fare. You’re supposed to slurp when eating They’re good places to meet the natives Japanese noodles, which are prepared in and are inexpensive as well. You’ll find almost as many different ways as there them in every nightlife district in the are regions. Noodle shops range from country. See the regional chapters and stand-up counters to traditional restau- also “Eating & Drinking in Japan,” in THE BEST OF JAPAN rants; one of my favorites is Raitei in chapter 2.

14 THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR SERIOUS SHOPPERS

• For Everything: Japanese department memento shopping are the Oriental stores are microcosms of practically Bazaar (p. 211) in Tokyo and the 1 everything Japan produces, from the Kyoto Handicraft Center (p. 345), THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR SERIOUS SHOPPERS food halls in the basement to the both of which offer several floors of departments selling clothing, accesso- everything from fans to woodblock ries, office supplies, souvenirs, pottery, prints. household goods, and cameras, to roof- • For Traditional Crafts: Japan treasures top garden centers. What’s more, ser- its artisans so highly that it designates vice is great and purchases are the best as National Living Treasures. beautifully wrapped. You’ll be spoiled Tokyo’s Japan Traditional Craft Cen- for life. See “Shopping” in chapter 6. ter (p. 211) offers a varied inventory of • For Designer Fashions: Tokyo’s everything from knives and baskets to Shibuya District has the most designer lacquerware, but there are many boutiques in town, while Aoyama renowned shops in Kyoto and Kanazawa boasts main shops for all the big-name as well. Department stores also offer an designers, including Issey Miyake and excellent collection of traditional crafts. Comme des Garçons. Department See “Shopping,” in chapter 6, and the stores also carry big-name designers; shopping sections for Kyoto in chapter their annual summer sales are mob 9 and Kanazawa on p. 387. scenes. See “Shopping,” in chapter 6. • For Antiques & Curios: Flea markets • For Souvenirs: Japanese are avid souve- are great for browsing; you’ll see every- nir shoppers when they travel, so souve- thing from used kimono to Edo-Era nirs are sold literally everywhere, even teapots for sale. Japan’s largest and one near shrines and temples. Nakamise of its oldest monthly markets is held the Dori, a pedestrian lane leading to 21st of each month at Toji Temple in Tokyo’s Sensoji Temple, is one of Japan’s Kyoto. (A lesser flea market is held most colorful places to shop for paper there the first Sun of each month.) umbrellas, toys, and other souvenirs. Tokyo also has great weekend markets. The two best places for one-stop See chapters 6 and 9.

004_541296-ch01.indd4_541296-ch01.indd 1515 66/25/10/25/10 88:22:22 PPMM 16 • For Electronics: Looking for that per- folk toys and foodstuffs. Cities with fect digital camera, MP3 player, calcula- kanko bussankan include Kanazawa, tor, or rice cooker? Then join everyone Okayama, Matsuyama, and Kuma- else in the country by going to one of moto. See chapters 10, 11, and 12. the nation’s two largest electronics and • For Porcelain & Pottery: Porcelain electrical-appliance districts. In Tokyo, and pottery are produced seemingly it’s Akihabara, where open-fronted everywhere in Japan. Some of the more shops beckon up to 50,000 weekday famous centers include Nagoya, home shoppers with whirring fans, blaring to Noritake, Japan’s largest chinaware radios, and sales pitches. In Osaka, head company; Kanazawa, known for its to Den Den Town. Be sure to compar- Kutani pottery with its distinctive col- ison-shop and bargain. See “Shopping,” orful glaze; Matsuyama, famous for its in chapters 6 and 10. Tobe pottery (white porcelain with • For Local Specialties: Many prefecture cobalt-blue designs); and Kagoshima, capitals have a government-owned exhi- with its Satsuma pottery, which comes bition hall where local products are in white (used by the upper class in displayed for sale. Often called a kanko feudal Japan) and black (used by the bussankan, the hall may have every- common people). See chapters 10, 11, thing from locally produced pottery to and 12.

1 THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR SERIOUS SHOPPERS SERIOUS FOR DESTINATIONS BEST THE JAPAN OF BEST THE

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