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TKTKTKTK whole different world as you venture down the rabbit hole. And, for this issue, to Wonderland we traveled, assembling atrove of treasures along the way. Compiled by America and Britain may be connected by acommon language, but it’s a Here is our collection of favorite things from the kingdom where no man REASONS WE LOVE R. Kurt Osenlund, Julien Sauvalle, Jesse Steinbach, and James McDonald Out editors Brandon Presser, Aaron Hicklin, Matthew Breen, Jerry Portwood, is an island, but there is an Isle of Man. BRITAIN 99

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NOVEMBER 2015

49 ALBERTO E. RODRIGUEZ/GETTY IMAGES (ANDREWS). CHRIS JACKSON/GETTY IMAGES FOR SENTEBALE (MCKELLEN). CHRIS JACKSON/GETTY IMAGES (DENCH). GABE PALACIO/IMAGEDIRECT (SMITH). RUTH BLACK (TEA) BLACK RUTH (SMITH). PALACIO/IMAGEDIRECT GABE (DENCH). IMAGES JACKSON/GETTY CHRIS (MCKELLEN). SENTEBALE FOR IMAGES JACKSON/GETTY CHRIS (ANDREWS). IMAGES RODRIGUEZ/GETTY E. ALBERTO

50 NOVEMBER 2015 O U T 2.-5. DAMES & SIRS Lancelot could swing a sword, but could he throw a zinger like Maggie 1. Smith? JODIE HARSH For Britain’s best-known it’s all in the music.

DAME JULIE ANDREWS Whether it’s bringing the hills to life with a tune or helping to revive Lady Gaga’s o lip-syncing, no singing, Osbourne, and John Galliano were career, the woman no dancing, no jokes. regulars; Winehouse would many remember as 6. But if that makes British usually rock up f or the last fi ve Fräulein Maria or Mary Poppins has a knack for AFTERNOON N performer Jodie Harsh minutes,” recalls Harsh. “It was a emitting regal vitality. sound like she wouldn’t last the real moment.” TEA fi rst round in, say, a televised But it’s as a DJ and producer that search for the next drag superstar, Harsh has really pushed the limits Tea drinking has been popular think again. of what a drag queen can do. She in Britain since the 17th Harsh is the hottest drag DJ was too busy to organize her 30th century, when the great diarist going. Her current gay club night, birthday party in February this Samuel Pepys recorded Room Service, has requests year because she was playing SIR IAN MCKELLEN drinking his fi rst “Cupp of This gay legend had a from people from the other side Madonna’s U.K. launch of Rebel banner year in 2015, Tee,” in September 1660, but of the world, desperate to get Heart. She’s DJed the MTV and Brit giving the performance it was a 19th-century duchess photographed there. “I get people Awards. Her remixes of Beyoncé’s of his career in Mr. who popularized Britain’s Holmes, and serving from Australia going, ‘I want “Blow” and “Pretty Hurts” both hit as a grand marshal signature ritual. Anna Russell, a Room Service picture,’ ” she number 1 on the Billboard dance for New York’s Pride Duchess of Bedford, was parade. But he’ll always reacting against the pesky explains, referring to the ultra- charts, and she’s been number 1 in be the world’s fi ercest airbrushed, wildly sexy shirtless her own right in Europe on an EP wizard to us. Victorian trend of eating shots the club takes of its patrons, featuring former Spice Girl Mel C. dinner at 9 P.M. when she which inevitably end up as slightly All of this, you’ll note, way before instituted a mid-afternoon disingenuous profi le pictures on any of RuPaul’s children heard of stopgap of tea with rounds dating apps. “They can get a bit iTunes. “I don’t on stage and of bread and jam that quickly cartoonish sometimes, but I don’t perform. DJing has always been caught on with the neighbors. care.” my hook,” she says. “I get booked DAME JUDI DENCH It took the gregarious A journalism graduate of because I’m a really good DJ, and She ended her stint in Edwardians to elevate this the Bond series as the the College of Fashion, I have this look. And there aren’t other divine Miss “M,” humble snack into a social Harsh—real name Jay Clarke, any other drag queen DJs. Well but Judi Dench is still an event, by taking tea out of the actress to be reckoned home and into the lobbies drag name adapted from “a there are, but…” with at 80. crappy British celebrity called Right now Jodie Harsh is at a of London’s fashionable Jodie Marsh”—started working pivotal point in her career, her hotels, such as the Savoy in club night doors but quickly trajectory headed onward and , which still became queen bee at Circus, upward. She will be a judge on does it best, and Claridge’s her champagne– and celebrity- the U.K. version of Drag Race, and in Mayfair. Wherever you end fueled noughties club. Circus ran there’s a publishing deal, with her up, if you don’t fi nd cucumber for six years from 2006, featured co-writing with ex- DAME MAGGIE SMITH sandwiches, and scones with credible DJs (Robyn, Róisín star Nicola Roberts and Ray of Whether she’s bringing clotted cream (always from audiences to their feet Murphy, and the xx all played), Light producer William Orbit. She in the West End, or Devon or Cornwall), you’re and drew incredible guests: Kate doesn’t rule out stepping in front questioning the con- doing something wrong. cept of a “week-end” Moss brought the paparazzi, the of the mic herself either. “That’s on Downton Abbey, Geldof girls were regulars, and kind of up for negotiation at the this drama queen can actress Jaime Winstone and pop moment. I would like to be command a room without lifting a fi n- star Paloma Faith became proper in a wig. That’s where I’m aiming ger—save the extended

ALBERTO E. RODRIGUEZ/GETTY IMAGES (ANDREWS). CHRIS JACKSON/GETTY IMAGES FOR SENTEBALE (MCKELLEN). CHRIS JACKSON/GETTY IMAGES (DENCH). GABE PALACIO/IMAGEDIRECT (SMITH). RUTH BLACK (TEA) BLACK RUTH (SMITH). PALACIO/IMAGEDIRECT GABE (DENCH). IMAGES JACKSON/GETTY CHRIS (MCKELLEN). SENTEBALE FOR IMAGES JACKSON/GETTY CHRIS (ANDREWS). IMAGES RODRIGUEZ/GETTY E. ALBERTO pals. “Alexander McQueen, Kelly for.” —COLIN CRUMMY pinky at tea time.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM BARNES OUT NOVEMBER 2015 51 52 mugs to armchairs. Warning: Warning: tomugs armchairs. from on anything available they’re and to tradition, twist a fresh bring patterns Moorish and trees, palm leafy birds, But HoH’s exotic institution. West fashion End the Liberty, by were dominated prints 2010, in it opened British Until 10 page 87). on recipe the (find delicious pudding—beyond toffee sticky you forroom savethe enough sure make Just toable handle. youhow decide much you’re to help trained skillfully are waiters the here, and gram by the served is Beef to match. cocktails and ever sampled, we’ve chateaubriand tastiest ofsome the boasts Hawksmoor The tavern, lit a dimly in lover’s A meat haven tucked 9 [email protected] completely. disappear they before toonown) your find tricky are pieces (some acolytes his and forhunt Banksy to go on a fascinating Martinez Pepe awith tour Book facades. neighborhood’s the preserve to back fighting is community local the Luckily, masterworks. art over street its flats luxury who favor developers, estate of real threat under been increasingly has 8 affordable grounds in and beyond. Still, there’s fun to there’s fun beyond. Still, and Dalston in grounds affordable artists to desert the West End in favor of the East, where they where West they the favor in End to desert ofEast, the artists find more livable space to let their creativity fly. the But with creativity to let space more their find livable Shoreditch hubs for design and nightlife are now looking for now are looking nightlife hubsShoreditch forand design . THE HAWKSMOOR THE . . STREET ART STREET . EAST LONDON 2012 Olympics and the new Overground rail came yuppies yuppies came rail new Overground the and 2012 Olympics and hipster families, and those who made Spitalfields and and whoSpitalfields made those and families, hipster and . HOUSE OF HACKNEY OF HOUSE .

London’s lofty rents have forced students and struggling struggling London’s haveand rents forced students lofty NOVEMBER be had when you go and East, we’ve got the lowdown. The East End has come a long way since since way long a come has End East The TheHawksmoor.com

2015

T U O Jack the Ripper. 7 . OneFineStay.com the area’s mod-artist vibe. embrace really pads End East service. hotel-like to offering gofers committed of dedicate a legion and digs upscale with on Airbnb spin a luxury puts service hospitality savvy the London, in Headquartered 13 CerealKillerCafe.co.uk won’tMommy bill. pay the time this except supermarket, a in a kid feel like you’ll menu, expansive cafe’s the you peruse As nostalgia. 1980s but sugary isn’t affordability, draw main Killer’s bowl here, Cereal small of a price box for the entire an buy you can Even though not much else. cereals—and in specializes which bar, this than get more hip You hardly could 12 AlbamClothing.com jeans. denim made-in-U.K. and outerwear, outstanding tees, cut forperfectly its Look city. the across outpost third its upSpitalfields, set shop in recently brand menswear British go-to. your The is Albam closet, your tostop refill one quick make youIf must 11 handed. impossible to leave empty- it’syouIf govirtually in, . ALBAM . . ONE FINE STAY FINE ONE . . CEREAL KILLER CAFE KILLER CEREAL . HouseOfHackney.com

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VISITBRITAIN (STREET SCENES). COURTESY OF LOCATIONS (CEREAL KILLER CAFE, HOUSE OF HACKNEY, THE HAWKSMOOR, ALBAM). TRISTAN FEWINGS/GETTY IMAGES (CRAIG GREEN). JOHN PHILLIPS/GETTY IMAGES (AGI & SAM) .com TheVintageShowroom tion. styling inspira- personal designand near Hill, forNotting at the showroom, ing anappointment and consider book- of goods downstairs, out the additional racks you cancount. Check green army coats than leatherera jackets and trying onmore 1960s- wear will have you military–, andsports- 20th-century work–, ofcollection mid- vibe andextensive This shop’s museum 16 London.com NaturalSelection 46 Monmouth St.; dotted white shorts. for apair of navy- in the store, butsettled just abouteverything tailoring. We wanted and relaxed, slimming bined lines with clean grays, blues—com- color palette—whites, label features aneutral essentials. The young to includeall men’s to-wear collection itsready-expanded hassince Selection brand in2009, Natural Founded asadenim 15 Sunspel.comSt.; ing. whatever is Craig wear- tees—and, of course, and super-soft Pima of the boxer shorts 1860. We’re bigfans knit apparel since in high-quality cotton has beenspecializing boutique. The brand yourself at this Soho then grab onefor in Riviera poloshirt donned the navy when Daniel Craig If you admired Sunspel 14 SHOWROOM SELECTION WE LOVE LONDON STORES . NATURAL . Casino Royale . THE . VINTAGETHE . SUNSPEL . MENS- 40 Old Compton 40 OldCompton WEAR 14 14 Earldom St.; - 16 , . playful runway shows are shows runway a always playful Topman in 2013 raised their status Topman status intheir 2013 raised shed lightshed on a new of generation U.K.-based talent. Meet the wild creatives. or abstract art, or perhaps a of bit or perhaps art, or abstract not, Green has made hishas made Green way into not, His designs defy the conventions conventions the defy His designs worldwide. Now their smart and and smart Now their worldwide. both? Whether he catches on or he catches both? Whether edgy editorials for of ready-to-wear: Is this fashion Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton’s Cotton’s and Sam Agi Mdumulla FKA Twigs FKA in her wore his label 2012, London returned changer asagame on the global stylemap. It also print-tastic collaboration with with collaboration print-tastic When itintroduced aseparate menswear fashion week to itscalendar in CRAIG CRAIG GREEN seasonal must-see. must-see. seasonal latest music video. Craig-Green.com AgiandSam.com AGI & SAM & AGI 17 THE NEW GARDE 19 17 and new architecture.” new and the most incredible combinations of old “It is the world in one building. It is one of Museum British The are in the center of London.” of center the in are “It is beautiful and vast. You forget you Park 21 J.W. ANDERSON . . GQ Style .- 22 . MY. FAVORITE HANGOUTS , and 17 - 20 20 Balenciaga, but with a very British British a very with but Balenciaga, CHRISTOPHER KANE His love for geometric patterns patterns His love for geometric East, whichEast, all echoed his taste and deconstructed silhouettes silhouettes and deconstructed Master of androgyny Jonathan Jonathan androgyny of Master bringing back an unabashedly unabashedly an back bringing infl fall new the in felt is uence collections, from collections, Gucci to Baja queer totwist menswear. His Anderson can be credited for . Ghesquière’s best work at work Ghesquière’s best OUT J.W ANDERSON recalls some of Nicolas of Nicolas some recalls ChristopherKane.com retro-futuristic feel. feel. retro-futuristic for gender bending. J-W-Anderson.com

Great Russell St. Russell Great NOVEMBER 20 18 19 Green Lanes Green . . 2015

53 18 Amy Beth Hayes in Mr. Selfridge

Men’s personal shopping lounge

23. & CO.

At a glance, Selfridges & Co. looks more museum piece For more exclusive attention, try the personal-shopping than contemporary hub. The sole majestic presence on the experience. As you search for the perfect blazer or fitted British ’s congested , the London store pants, lounge in the sitting room, with its comfy sofas and opened in 1909, and the building retains much of its period ample fashion reference materials. Three suites are used for charm. The Queen of Time, a 1931 bronze-and-blue clock, private fittings, where natty royals and movie stars are known sits grandly above the front entrance, crying out for couples to show up regularly, according to Joe Ottaway, the stylist who to meet under it. But if the architecture speaks of bygone heads up the service. romance, Selfridges’ shopping is a much more contemporary Once you’ve exhausted yourself browsing, head to the experience. A fashionable vision runs throughout the project, rooftop to refuel at Vintage Salt. Inspired by a Cornish fishing from luxury goods to hip restaurants. village, the concept restaurant is relaxed and perfect for At Selfridges, commerce is raised to an art form. The lounging on a summer afternoon. Along with great fresh shopfront window displays, whether sending political seafood (try the harissa-roasted sea trout), don’t pass up the messages (the current campaign, Project Ocean, raises water Chocolate Burger for dessert; it’s a confection that mimics pollution awareness) or Christmas cheer, are set as if in a bun and fixings with sweet surprises, along with a side of picture frames in an art gallery. A Selfridges shopping is a sugary churros as “fries.”—COLIN CRUMMY graphic design dream of block black text on egg yolk yellow. COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES (LOUNGE). COURTESY OF BBC (MR. SELFRIDGE). COURTESY OF BOOKSTORES. SARAH CRUMB (SCARFES). FRANCESCO TORQUATI GRITTI (). COURTESY OF TING AT THE SHARD (FOOD)

24.-27. FOYLES MR. B.’S EMPORIUM OF The new Foyles flagship READING DELIGHTS WORD location on London’s A claw-foot tub book ON THE is an display, Tintin comic STREET impeccably designed liter- wallpaper, and toilets Good reads in ary . The 112-year-old covered in reviews make Great Britain bookstore, which once held Mr. B’s Emporium in the record as the world’s Bath a standout go-to biggest, still claims the for bibliophiles. Head to largest range of books in the the shop for an author U.K. It’s a welcome place to discussion, or opt for some get lost. 107 Charing Cross quiet time in a rentable Rd., London; Foyles reading booth. 14-15 John St., .co.uk Bath; MrBsEmporium.com

54 NOVEMBER 2015 O U T 28. 30.-33. LOVE IS SCARFES BAR FREE A homoerotic art tour AT ROSEWOOD HOTEL of London’s many public museums The Rosewood London, a gorgeous heap of marble, was once the stuffy headquarters of an insurance company. Today the Venus and Mars by 5-star property is a favorite of pop and movie stars (Taylor Sandro Botticelli (c. 1485) This Renaissance Swift, Cameron Diaz, and Leonardo DiCaprio among them), masterpiece depicts and its bar is the center of the action. Located in Holborn, the goddess of love desperately trying to Scarfes—named for artist Gerald Scarfe, whose cartoons get the attention of adorn the walls—serves up classic cocktails and bottles Mars, who would rather of bubbly in what feels like a stately library in a baronial lie there, flaunting his flawless bod. mansion. Behind the bar, the sexy guys filling your drinks want to make you feel like a regular. Let ’em. 252 High Holborn, London; ScarfesBar.com

Man in Shower in Beverly Hills by David Hockney (1964) Hockney’s famed male nude gives serious competition to the other contemporary works in the museum’s dizzying collection, including 29. those of Warhol, Rothko, and Mapplethorpe. THE SHARD Triptych—August 1972 Move over —London’s got a new phallic by Francis Bacon This homage to human progress: more than a thousand harrowing series painted feet of spiking glass. Britain’s 21st-century response after the suicide of Bacon’s partner, George to Paris’s Eiffel , the Shard has dramatically Dyer, shows the pair in changed the city’s landscape, pulling away from a pose that suggests a sexual encounter. its museum-like center. Visitors can tour the tower with a ticket straight to the top, but we prefer the full experience at the Shangri-La Hotel, which lives high in the translucent structure. Try dinner at Ting, the signature restaurant, and enjoy a menu of elegantly prepared food that mirrors the chic simplicity of the Shard itself. At sunset, sip cocktails that draw upon the

COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES (LOUNGE). COURTESY OF BBC (MR. SELFRIDGE). COURTESY OF BOOKSTORES. SARAH CRUMB (SCARFES). FRANCESCO TORQUATI GRITTI (THE SHARD). COURTESY OF TING AT THE SHARD (FOOD) brand’s Asian roots. 31 St. Thomas St.; Shangri-La.com

Discobolus by Myron PAPERSMITHS RICHARD BOOTH’S (c. 450 B.C.) There’s no The airy light-wood BOOKSHOP shortage of naughty bits aesthetic will remind you Tucked in the center of Hay- in room 69 of the , but this athletic of a Scandinavian shop. on-Wye (page 60), Richard nude by Myron might be You’ll find beautiful desk Booth’s Bookshop offers a our favorite. Look also accessories at this Bristol comprehensive selection of for marble busts of gay gem—everything from brass reads. Peruse new and vin- Roman emperor Hadrian, displayed next to his lover pencil sharpeners to dyed- tage collections (we found a Antinous. The Warren fabric notebooks—as well first-edition James Baldwin!) Cup, embossed with as an impressive array of before grabbing toast with man-on-man sex scenes, local and international zines. jam at the café followed by adds an extra X-rated touch to your visit. 6A Boyces Ave., Bristol; a movie in the cinema down British Museum Papersmiths.co.uk the hall. 44 Lion St., Hay- on-Wye; BoothBooks.co.uk

OUT NOVEMBER 2015 55 CAPITAL DIGS 56 SQUARE

NOVEMBER THE W LONDON, LONDON, W THE Best for... Design

2015

T U O 34 . admittance to an opium den with a buffet. Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s chic Spice It’s Market restaurant: like is at served a kitchen Breakfast island. structure—like a central vanity,distinctively, and deskthe sink, space are condensed into In some and glass. rooms, hidden rather walls mirrored behind Showers designsex-forward and is toiletsall are minimalism: and are greeted by a phalanx of hanging mirrorballs. The iceberg. ametropolitan room giant Guests step off the lobby elevator district—design is the star of the show. The exterior is frosted like the doorstep London’sof and central Chinatown so-gay Soho At the outpost of W the urbane hotel brand—on tea-infused cocktails. cocktails. tea-infused in specializes and a favoritethat’s locals, among bar a Spot, semi-hidden welcomed to Blind the be will of a drink search in owl. Those night the for chips thin-cut and ice cream and bird early for coffee the and fresh with convenient, it is as vast menu as is room service 24-hour ontheir ice, and candy and champagne with VIPs greet Staffers but minimalistic. anything however, service, is The mounted plant. small, a single display walls suite many and imagery, grass Asian-inspired their with soothe Elevators decor. modern touches with natural merging simple, and slick things keeps but Martins St. West its location, End considering dramatic, the hotelYou’d would havefor this a penchant think ST. MARTINS LANE Best for... Hospitality StMartinsLane.com 35 WLondon.co.uk .

COURTESY OF W HOTELS. NIALL CLUTTON (ST. MARTINS LANE, MONDRIAN). COURTESY OF ATHENAEUM

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NOVEMBER $45; found along the way are Pajamas byPajamas TO BRING TO FROM EDINBURGH 1 oz., $44; the extra fee.the extra $275; Set, $325,available at Triangle-weave throw by FROM WYE VALLEY Mug by Scotland; Shave oil by National Museum of These souvenirs we FROM LLANDEILO Isle of Lewis Chess worth coughing up THINGS FROM LONDON 38 Toast HOME HalcyonDaysUSA.com Associates.com FROM BATH FIVE Derek-Rose.com .- , $380; Halcyon Days Aromatherapy NMS.ac.uk Derek Rose 42 2015 Refinery Toa.st .

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STYLING BY JUSTIN HAMILTON. GROOMER: JOHN CHRISTOPHER JOHN GROOMER: HAMILTON. JUSTIN BY STYLING

58 NOVEMBER 2015 O U T STYLING BY JUSTIN HAMILTON. GROOMER: JOHN CHRISTOPHER F Brixton, where I live, completelyis Brixton, and completelyis Asian, road, the me,” down she “Tooting, just says. surrounded that not for culture the if tomusic make inspired as nearly I would have “I don’t been think voice cities. to Britain’s distinctive much of her attributes London, in Welch, AdeleFlorence from and and “Tropical Chancer.” cool, disco-inflected “Sexotheque,” Club in “Kiss and Not Tell,” to the the bouncy invocation of Tom Tom andsongwriting hooks, slinky from but the result is an epic of muscular Langmaid parted ways en route— was long and arduous—she and follow-up, account, the road to her 2014 Human League. By her own and with the early Eurythmics synth-pop that found comparisons exponents of a refurbished ’80s Ben onLangmaid, the map as and her then-collaborator, 2009 debut, The first, her Grammy-winning expression in two terrific albums. has foundauthoritarianism anti- playful, spiky, Jackson’s it people find refreshing.” “Actually,few very sidering. recon- shebefore says, quickly it some me, find refreshing,” in and itsome people find infuriating and everything, questioned just always “I’ve teachers. the for challenging out of classes thrown being recalls there.” She attitude an definitely women,” she “There’ssays. ballsy one“We’rein key regard: quite except of course, Winehouse, Amy or Bush Kate like nothing is Roux, La as known better Jackson, Elly musicians. female iconoclastic PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMUEL BRADLEY Jackson, whoup grew not far Jackson, Away from the classroom, of strong, singular, and and singular, of strong, long proved a wellspring has Britain Winehouse, torom Bush Kate Amy Trouble in Paradise in Trouble La Roux, Singer Elly Jackson is a girl on fire. on girl a is Jackson Elly Singer LA ROUX put Jackson , 43 . —AARON HICKLIN —AARON lose mine.” Don’t worry; she won’t. mine.” Don’tlose worry; fire,their and I don’t ever want to diminished. I’ve seen people lose and with get fiddled do, it will you believe 100% in what you live at with all,” she says. “Unless a catchy melody, which I couldn’t offersome movesthan dance and not with astar great deal more to me to be seen aas female pop possibility, ‘Bulletproof,’after for her.faze “There toowas much success—but don’t expect that to a commercial than of a critical Paradise in Trouble have lost fans in the interim— sophomore La Roux mayalbum. years for Jackson to release her it’s not to easy as live with.” common ground of success—but fine—that’s ofthe mark having a is which of all sexually, people, for who represented else something who didn’t have her out, tits and another woman to look up to, one represent,to be or I that trying was didn’t know what I was trying to knew the song,” “They she recalls. my but La Roux, was name they even know who didn’t people meet what “I’dmade her distinctive. butfans threatened to overwhelm edged swordher earned newthat double- a proved Celebrity 100. number 8 onHot the Billboard reached number 1 in the U.K., and 2009 herafter “Bulletproof” single drop of a hat.” in She struggled happiness at with the Icry can very easily, I get very emotional, had a fire,” she says. “I get angry her, too. “I definitely have always off rubbed on and vitality—has of the city—itsdynamic brashness white hippies from ’60s.”the from derived of thinking left-wing kind liberal a very with in mixed that all and African, and Jamaican That’s one reason it took five It’s tempting tothe that suggest was morewas carrying the Girl Power torch. forever with their five-spiced Direction, Direction, these R&B-belting We fell head-over-platform- Girls 2.0) have beendutifully Our Pick: “Cruel Summer” Hit Song: “What Hit Song:“What About Us” This British-Canadian quartet bolstered by Vanessa’slegit This five-some (think Spice X-Factory that created One way for legionthe of afore of them; tracksuits and flag 57 seconds of spoken-word singing arguably paved the Manufactured in the same Girl Power will reign ( The original flavor oflady- Our Pick: “Pure Shores” Our Pick: “Black Magic” cranking outradio fodder Our Pick: “Missing You” sign-wielding queensof Our Pick: “2 Become 1” The high-kicking,peace Bratz dollsare currently Hit Song: “Never Ever” mentioned chanteuses. mentioned heels in loveheels in with each for last eightthe years, recipe of zig-a-zig-ah. Hit Song:“Wannabe” gifted us with the best Our favorite Union dresses bedamned. Hit Song:“Venus” Hit Song: “Wings” THE SATURDAYS POWER 44 BANANARAMA BANANARAMA Jackies of pop SPICE GIRLS ALL SAINTS vocal chops. (never) ever. GIRL .- 48 viva! .

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) OUT Lance is in London, raining. Each time particularly if it’s great romantic spot, the city. It can be a the best views in accompanied by to-ceiling wrap-aroundfloor- Tower, with on the 40th floor of restaurant in the U.K., “It’s the highest Duckand Waffle 49 PolariLiterarySalon.co.uk ever since. scene literary London’s invigorating been of and has room a inbar Soho, in 2007 inupstairs began the Centre, Southbank at the salon, The folk. and theater sailors adapted from slang used by gaylanguage for the code salon—named literary Polari ofmonthly the an outgrowth Children for Lost Diriye Osman for writer was Somali-British year’s winner (last nonfiction or fiction, prose, in poetry, LGBT topics tackles book first whose towriter a U.K.-based top honor awarding its been in has October, announced Prize, Book First Polari the For running, five years 50 110 The Heron Tower, dinner.” for once and breakfast least twice, once for we eat there at LOVERS DUSTIN LANCE BLACK DUSTIN LANCE TOM DALEY & SALON LITERARY POLARI . LONDON FOR LONDON .

. NOVEMBER

windows, ). is prize The Fairytales Fairytales 2015

59 54

51. WALES

For a tiny country, Wales can feel surprisingly spacious, particularly in the Wye Valley, where hills ripple in all directions, and in the West, where the dramatic Pembrokeshire coastline rises and tumbles through a series of prismatic coves. Like much of Britain, Wales has become adept at mixing old-school charm with contemporary savoir-faire. And there’s a strong locavore trend that animates restaurants and hotels alike. You’ll likely end up eating Welsh lamb, drinking Welsh cider, and being reminded by locals at every turn that Wales is like . Only better.

52. LLANGOED HALL can drop 50 pence in the slot A sprawling Edwardian manor, and grab as you go. Llangoed Hall is straight out of

the board game Clue, though 54. TINTERN ABBEY instead of finding Miss Peacock This massive Cistercian abbey with the candlestick, you’ll overlooking the river Wye discover feather-stuffed couches has inspired poets including and dripping chandeliers. The Wordsworth, Tennyson, and immaculately manicured 17 even Ginsberg, who wrote of acres feature a farm the “clouds passing through (pick out your egg for breakfast!) skeleton arches,” in his poem and organic gardens with just “Wales Visitation.” Founded about every green you can in 1131, it’s an imposing stone imagine—obscure edible flowers carcass of its former grandeur, alongside traditional herbs like the church’s hallowed interior sage and mint. Don’t miss the and gaping windows exuding a hedge maze—impossible to creepy but majestic spirit. navigate after a few cocktail- hour whiskys. 55. LUNCH Let your nose guide you deep 53. HAY-ON-WYE into the countryside to find Like some kind of holy land Wright’s Food Emporium, for bibliophiles, Hay-on-Wye one of Britain’s most legit is a village in which nearly farm-to-table establishments. every establishment has been House-made pickles, vats of transformed into a bookshop, wine (for regulars to replenish from the church to the local their own bottles), locally cinema. It’s a secondhand smoked meats, a cake buffet, shopper’s dream. Don’t miss the and freshly baked bread woo

Honesty Bookshop, where you discerning eaters from all over JULIEN SAUVALLEWRIGHT’S) (VIEW, AARONHICKLIN (TINTERN ABBEY, LLANGOED MANOR). BRANDON PRESSER (TENBY, ROCH, ST. BRIDES, LLANGOED GATE).

60 NOVEMBER 2015 O U T 56 58. TENBY With all the British whimsy of Mary Poppins, and the oceanic charm of the French Riviera, Tenby is a bolthole for summer- seekers looking for sociable beaches dotted with shade- bearing umbrellas, throwback ice cream parlors, and a small town center hemmed by old fort ruins.

59. BARAFUNDLE BAY The snaking hedge-lined road 59 grows thinner as the smell of sea salt fills the air, and when the path peters out in Stackpole you’re a short walk away from Wales’s most prized beach. Follow the scores of towel-toting locals along the unmarked path up the bluff, and at the far side of the cliff walk, the haunting ruin of a medieval fortification points the way down into the idyllic sandy basin. The thick green foliage and curling blue tide seem practically Caribbean, though the water remains refreshingly cool, even on the sunniest day. 58 57

60. ROCH CASTLE the island. Try the rarebit Towering above the village sandwich, an elevated version of Roch, its namesake castle of the Welsh original, and wash is an elegant relic from more than over 800 years ago. Until it down with a regional cider. recently, the site was just 56. CARREG CENNEN another structure haunting the Wales’s most compelling countryside. Then a locally born crumbling castle sits atop architect bought the property a grassy mound with an and transformed the castle espansive view of rolling into a six-room boutique hotel. meadows. Once it was a Though the exterior remains turreted stronghold; all that antique, the interior is positively remains today is the elaborate modern, with stark black-and- bones of a multi-story white stylings throughout. fortress—a jungle gym for 55 curious tourists. Don’t miss the 61. ST. DAVIDS cave below, signposted with a The burial place of the patron small arrow. The grounds are saint of Wales, the settlement of perfect for a picnic lunch. St. Davids is the U.K’.s smallest city—a designation traditionally 57. ST. BRIDES SPA HOTEL given to any civic area that Perched above the village possesses a cathedral. Hidden of Saundersfoot, the hotel away at the very western edge welcomes guests with sweet of the rambling Pembrokeshire staff and marine-themed coast, it was a place of worship decor. The rooms on the second so coveted that it was believed floor have beautiful views of a pilgrimage twice made to St. the harbor below, but the pièce Davids should equal weight de résistance is the on-site spa’s to one visit to Rome.

JULIEN SAUVALLEWRIGHT’S) (VIEW, AARONHICKLIN (TINTERN ABBEY, LLANGOED MANOR). BRANDON PRESSER (TENBY, ROCH, ST. BRIDES, LLANGOEDoutdoor GATE). infinity pool.

52 52 OUT NOVEMBER 2015 61 62 our favorites: our of Afew characters. queer some introducing even and roles, female bolstering date, to up thoroughly for known best T. Davies, Russell screenwriter gay the air, the off was show the when 1990s, the through period a fallow After theirs. losing is else everyone while head his keep to ability his on rests success character’s the of much Holmes, Sherlock and Bond James sleuths British great Like Capaldi. Peter incarnation current by played as particularly cranky, frequently and impatient, sardonic, also is He TARDIS. the as known box phone police a1950s via time and space through traveling and babies, jelly down wolf to a tendency scarves, colorful oversized included have charms various whose sleuth atime-traveling features series franchise, TV ever greatest- its of episode premiere the broadcast BBC the 23 November on and singles, first their released Stones Rolling The and Beatles the Both culture. pop British for year abanner was 1963 that out turns It enigmatic time-travelerenigmatic hasbecome aqueer icon. A cultfavorite for more than 50 years, the BBC’s

Queer asFolk Queer NOVEMBER ? Doctor Who Doctor

. Davies has brought the series series the brought has . Davies 2015 Doctor Who Doctor by seven million Brits. on-screen kissinanepisode watched even shared asexy lesbo-reptilian Victorian asa chambermaid wife. They The prehistoriclizard-queen took a known as The Mistress, or Missy. regenerated asa woman andisnow ways the Doctor’s archenemy, until he The Master, a fellow Time Lord, was al series, immortality andasteamy spin-off ing naked hide-and-seek,andearned have dated Marcel Proust, enjoys play This pansexual space hopper claims to positive representation?positive marrying hisboyfriend. How’s that for Nixon to offer hisblessing to Canton’s save the earth. Then the Doctor asks this former FBI agent from 1969helps In a2011episode,“Day of the Moon,” CANTON DELAWARE III MADAME VASTRA THE MASTER/MISTRESS CAPTAIN JACK HARKNESS 62

- T U O Torchwood 66 was revived in 2005 by by 2005 in revived was . The long-running long-running . The . .

- - The Original Bromance 68 that middle-aged lady, gay boy or girl. to ofbe ait baker,what recipes means be old-fashioned challenging in lies when misogyny she outcame as gay in April. to judgewith appearing flirt as Hollywood, simply unmasked an accusation Tandoh’s journey. Pretty, young, popular, and female, she for was vilified circle.” But perhaps the power of I did mywith mum, so doing it on the show feltalmost it like bringing full up, was a and bitbaking of an escape for me,” he says. “It was something winners, both of whom are gay. “I wasn’t the sporty the kitchen.or Like Edd Kimber, popularthe season 1 champion and one ofkid two male growing women, the show bakers allowsof aspiring persuasions toall come out in globally. to over territories 20 sold worldwide, favorite LGBT an become show has reality the that wonder it’s little bears), the with (a hit big Hollywood Paul judge silver-bearded with And Perkins. Sue presenter, lesbian on “hot baps,” and asked to refrain from “fiddling with [their] pirates.” cake, contestants are marked down for their “soggy bottoms,” congratulated imaginable, where drama is concocted out of amaking sponge outlet:surprising a BBC competition.baking Here, in the most genteel setting For a master class in double entendres, the British public tune in to a FLEMING IAN HEARTS COWARD NO While was onceThough baking thought the preserve of middle-aged straight prominent most BBC’s the by out doled routinely is innuendo spicy The . Ë GREAT BRITISH L Bake Off BAKE OFF BAKE revels in cheeky, old-fashioned innuendo, its freshness freshness its revels innuendo, cheeky, in old-fashioned Britain’s sauciestexport Coward would sign his toletters Fleming “with smacking great when he sought pastures new. The men were so close that himsetting up forwith women—then affairs them comforting womanizer. Typically, Coward would asact Fleming’s wingman, and Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond, and a notorious like plays, (whose Noël between Coward, the gay bard of middle England class One of the more unlikely friendships in English wasletters that Bake Off 67 Brief Encounter — . COLIN CRUMMY is exemplified in runner-up Ruby , made him a household name), baker Ian Cumming Sue Perkins and and Perkins Sue

TIMOTHY GREENFIELD-SANDERS (WATERS) TIMOTHY GREENFIELD-SANDERS (WATERS) sexuallife. Absolutely un-putdownable. offers extraordinary insightsinto Victorian memoirThis erotic anonymous multi-volume My Secret Life ing “Oh, Whistle and I’ll Come to You, My Lad.” contains This collection the supremely unnerv James’s supernatural tales are among the best. I’ve alwaysloved agood ghoststory, and Ghost Stories of an Antiquary masterpiece. readers. past, even while bringing it lifeto for modern able to do justice to the strangeness of the Renault was oneof the great historical novelists, The Persian Boy find somethingnew init. turned to itmany since times then, andalways blew meaway when readI first it,at18. I’ve re ofThis fabulous collection reworked fairy tales Angela Carter The Bloody Chamber andOther Stories queer. slightly and vivid and troubling work: place. of evoker Du Maurier was a brilliant storyteller, and a great Rebecca in writing, ways I never expect. affected memost. popsupinmyIt often own class, guilt,shame,anddesire is the one that’s I admire all of Dickens’s novels, but this story of Great Expectations classics. sixidentifies British literary Man Booker Prize. Here, the writer that werefor the shortlisted prestigious The Night Watch including six three— novels, Waterssuccessful authors, has published One of Britain’s most accomplished and 69 SARAH WATERSSARAH lavish parties. at louche friends, and and their Hollywood Goldeneye—andone another,entertained in the hiscalled Caribbean—Fleming that time both men had bought homes his lover, Cole, who were By witnesses. second time in 1952, it was Coward and kisses;” and when Fleming married for a -

75 The Persian Boy , Daphne du Maurier .

Rebecca , Anonymous, “Walter” , Mary Renault , and , and , Charles Dickens

The Little Stranger , I think, was her is far and away her best Fingersmith , M.R. James

, , - — -

Total Bondness: Total Sex appeal: swimsuits!) short those wigs, boy, those ex-chorus Gayness: Style: over.won soon was he boys, fan of Bond generations and girls, Bond those like all But Grant. for suave Cary instead hoping casting, Connery’s Scottish working-class, wasn’tbeefy, on the keen too Ian Fleming creator Bond James Pussy!” “You’re of amany parts, woman (1962-1971) CONNERY SEAN Total Bondness: Total Sex appeal: Gayness: Style: two too many. was that say Some movies. Bond two only made angst—Dalton much too and hair, shirts, polo plus Picard Bond—Jean-Luc Company Shakespeare Royal The Daylights) with a knife.” (1987-1989) DALTON TIMOTHY “I’ll do anything for a woman for a woman do anything “I’ll 007 004 004 (Goldfinger) 006 (Ex-bodybuilder, (Ex-bodybuilder, 006 003 003 007 007 001 001 (The Living Living (The

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SCORING MR. BOND the world’s highest-paid models the world’s highest-paid models Aussie was The one craggy of Majesty’s Secret Service) with young women.” tomuch had never do “I’ve GEORGE LAZENBY (1969) Total Bondness: Total Those calves! That !) Sex appeal: point) to gay at be one pretends Gayness: Style: in atmovie the time. the the famous kilt he fills out nicely known he whether was wearing Broccoli at the hairdresser. It’s not bybeing spotted producer Cubby tocast Mr.play Bond—after inworking Europe when he was Total Bondness: Total Sex appeal: Gayness: Style: noughties computer game. a inside trapped model catalog knitwear an ’80s resembled By aesthetically. not but feminism by politically updated antihero Fleming’s played Brosnan Bond, an antiseptic but actor A good ( James. werelinguist, a cunning You Moneypenny: Miss always a new tongue. learning I enjoyed always Bond: (1995-2002) BROSNAN PIERCE Tomorrow Never Dies Never Tomorrow Die Another Day 006 005 005 006 (He even (He even 006 001 001 007 (That chin! chin! 007 (That 005 76 019 011 . (2002), he he (2002), (On Her (On Her

) Let Die) a chicken.”with fight a lost who means of limited to a man belonging hat small It’s a just “Don’tdarling. worry, (1973-1985) MOORE ROGER Total Bondness: Total arse in high-waisted those flares?) Sex appeal: quips, the arched eyebrows) Gayness: and a Style: Noël Coward. armed well- heterosexual, like a bit very A laughs. camp for largely Bond played Moore elegant always the physical, least the also and Bond, longest-serving The Total Bondness: Total Sex appeal: his M4M past) about out come Gayness: Style: can’t keep their handshim. off No Andress. wonder the villains his finally became own Ursula Casino Royale And what a Inbody! that famous since the a’60s tobody. possess andthe first sincealso Connery The first working-class Bond think this is my first time? you makes : What Bond James for everything. time ...first chest] and thighs Bond’s restrained a Silva: [Caresses Raoul (2006-present) CRAIG DANIEL OUT Saint 007 007 (He was a was (He 007

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find his WINNER!

63

64 of sawtooth fjords. Each glen has its its has glen Each fjords. of sawtooth sequence a dramatic between tucked Antrim the first stop is the nine filming location for why a region as the used is frequently to it’s see easy escarpments, seaside to towering valleys From lonely grassy U.K. of the all in scenery stunning some most ofin the takes Ireland Northern in road site, coastal the WorldCauseway, a UNESCO Heritage Giant’s for legendary Named the As you follow the road from , you Belfast, As from road follow the

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Game of Thrones T U O Glens ofGlens . giant Benandonner (according to local to local (according Benandonner giant Scottish the to battle MacCool hero Finn Causeway the sea cliffs climb higher near King.” of the “Hand the and brooches, dragon Daenerys the pendants, lion Lannister the are missed Not tohit. HBO be the in used jewelry to outoriginal check the Glenarm in at cafés, and B&Bs. shops, charming to several mention not legend, fairy-tale and name own The winding glens straighten out as out as straighten glens winding The Steensons . Built by the gargantuan gargantuan by the . Built ( TheSteensons.com GoT 77 fans should pause pause should fans . Giant’s ) a mammoth shoe). a mammoth like oddly shaped a boulder (including formations geological curious these edge for of a bird’s-eye perspective Shepherd’s Steps ago. Follow years the 50 million than more region the rocked that activity volcanic to intense the ais testament stone of lore),hexagonal collection the summer, the town has a pleasant a pleasant town has the summer, the During ledges. rock surrounding the through trek the after reward perfect stone, the is of basalt realm Portstewart , farther beyond the beyond the , farther up along the cliff’s cliff’s the up along

CHRIS HILL (BEACH, RUINS). ARTHUR WARD (GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, COWS). BRENDAN PRESSER (MARINA, ROAD). MATTHEW BREEN (). COURTESY OF THERMAE BATH SPA. COURTESY OF THE PIG-NEAR BATH CHRIS HILL (BEACH, RUINS). ARTHUR WARD (GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, COWS). BRENDAN PRESSER (MARINA, ROAD). MATTHEW BREEN (HAMPTON COURT PALACE). COURTESY OF THERMAE BATH SPA. COURTESY OF THE PIG-NEAR BATH of recipes inside for DIY drinking. for drinking. DIY inside of recipes a slew with comes and purchase for available is which a book, as contents its printed and bound have managers the so longis that menu bar The fabrics. sumptuous upholstered with chairs lounge and chandeliers Baccarat with elegance, much original of the retains bar the old bank, an in — ( Hotel Merchant at Cup Pimm’s a with yourself reward and toback Belfast hits. biggest the are Caramel Salty of Honeycomb Scoops Sea and day itthe opened. since styling Formica its shop changed hasn’t much-loved the seems ice cream before World War I, it immigrants by opened Italian institution local co.uk Morelli’s flaky. and soft unfailingly are chips and fish the bone, and the off right falls megrim juicy The completely food. on the focuses decor, its but instead with itself noto attempt distinguish makes Harry’s Awards, Restaurant National U.K. ofby the the all in Voted eats oneseating. best of the table picnic with scattered and wooden boards light in framed Shack to point find access public street. seaside belowmain the stretching of peach-toned sand long its spread vibe, vacation TheMerchantHotel.com BRANDON BRANDON PRESSER Follow the interior highway Followhighway interior the Leaveat room for dessert the via to down beach Head the ) in the center of the )A town. in , a bustling lunchtime joint joint lunchtime , a bustling ( MorellisOfPortstewart. 79 enough cover to hide if it rains.” it if hide to cover enough with the weather here, there’s just gay and straight all together, and It’s such an amazing atmosphere, and popcornand show outdoors and they have wings and Tavern, the oldest bar in Belfast. It’s takes place twice a month at White’s “Courtyard Cinema Game of Thrones HANGOUT KRISTIAN NAIRNKRISTIAN . MY. FAVORITE BELFAST ’s cocktail bar bar ’s cocktail Ghostbusters ). Situated Harry’s Harry’s The The , Hodor on and stuff like that.

The Irish Catholics. island), away from the had resettled on the English people who (mostly Scots and ity in Northern Ireland out a Protestant major largelyin 1921 to carve The division was made the Republic of Ireland. other three are apartof Kingdom, while the belong to the United which are divided:six ofthe ninecounties province of Ulster, represent the Irish still used today to of hisrule. served as the emblem his bloody appendage made himking, while won him the race and gesture of bravery the shore. His badass his handand threw itat hesevered petition, he waslosing the com aspiring kingsaw that land. the When one be the first to “touch” line—the winner would determine in the next tribal overlords to was organized among Ireland), soaboatrace (present-day northeast kingdom of Ulster no rightful heir to the time when there was long ago there was a As the story goes, 78 ULSTER OFHAND THE RED

Goonies The red handis .

- - whose whose ghost (actually an the actor portraying corpulent monarch) still roams royals since 1760, Hampton Palace was Court once a favorite of VIII, Henry Who doesn’t love a costume drama? Though it hasn’t been a home to the Bath Spa natural hot springs were used to cure various Todayailments. the A student hub,popular Bath was colonized during Roman times when its On your way to stop inBristol, Bath forpampering. some well-deserved mask the stench of many unwashed bodies. floor, on the were that to and sprinkled flowers herbs the toilet—and ponder one might have found in the public dining room, the royal bath, and the royal scents Court—featuring map ofGeorgian the to pick up a scratch-and-sniff the monumental gardens include the world’s grapevine. Don’tbiggest forget drawing rooms, and royal tennis (also Henry’s)court are spectacular, and the massive wine keptcellars in Thegood spirits. private apartments, kitchens builtHenry to feed his entire court—some 1,000 people, whom created in both Tudordomestic and baroqueare architectural styles, the and Anglophile. Among the can’t-miss spots of the massive construction, palace, now celebrating its 500th anniversary, will excite any theJust halls. a 35-minute train ride south of London’s Waterloo the station, wave hello to the resident swine before ongetting your way. Try the homemade juices and pizzas toflatbread refuel, and don’t forget to of the furniture andis cutlery mismatched, but in the most beguiling way. Bath at over shelter, and pull food For city. the of views with roof treatment rooms, four scented saunas, and two pools—including one on the HAMPTON COURT PALACE ( ThePigHotel.com ( ThermaeBathSpa.com TURNS ), a charming wherefarm-to-table experience all BATH ) taps still the ancient source to supply its 80 81 . . 500 OUT

NOVEMBER The Pig-Near Wolf Hall Thermae Thermae 2015 fan

65 1 2 3

4 5 6

82. this meat house one of the best bites 83. in Britain, and the National Restaurant BRISTOL 24 HOURS IN BRISTOL Awards agree. Slather your rib-eye You’ll only need a day to discover why the European Green Capital of 2015 is also in the homemade béarnaise, and cut ARTIST our pick for the U.K.’s beating heart of creativity. through the heaviness with the savory JOE burned carrot salad (see page 87 for the MAGEE 11 A.M. as we were, you may catch the annual recipe). Wash it down with the Quick Fix Start with a heart-pounding view from Naked Bike Ride, the theme of which (Tanqueray gin, lemon, rhubarb syrup, British artist and the atop filmmaker Joe Magee suspension bridge Clifton is “as bare as you dare.” rosé vermouth), the signature cocktail. blends typography with Village [1], Bristol’s most picturesque bold colors and designs neighborhood. Admire the bewitching 4 P.M. (see his original piece 10 P.M. on page 48). “We’re Georgian and Regency-style row Bristol’s docklands have been lov- Owned and operated by the Ox in an era of infinite houses throughout, then book a “Swim ingly overhauled into a hive of public clan, The Milk Thistle [6] hides its images that are and Lunch” package at the Lido [2] projects, like prim parks and inven- available via digital sprawling space behind an unmarked, capturing,” Magee, who spa ($54) to enjoy fresh smoked salmon tive sculptures—don’t miss the metal speakeasy-style door. Once inside, studied graphic design on sourdough or Turkish poached eggs. tree made from solar panels that also climb the Escher-like staircases to at London College Don’t forget to wait 30 minutes before of Communication, charges your phone! Tour the SS Great find four floors worth of large lounges explains. “The trick is your dip in the open-air pool flanked by Britain, an impeccably preserved with dark-wood moldings, gilded oil to know how to sort retro shuttered changing booths. passenger steamship from the mid- portraits, and taxidermic game. Try through them and pick ones that tell the story 1800s, then check out Watershed the Long Walk Home (brandy, sherry, you want to tell in the 3 P.M. [4], a haven for artists across all media chocolate bitters) or the Plum Bum most economical way.” Follow Park Street down the slope that doubles as an indie movie theater After living all over (whiskey, Somerset Pomona, plum the U.K., Magee names back into the city center, noting the and café. Sample the brownie—made syrup). Reservations are recommended. Bristol as his favorite neo-Gothic Wills Memorial Building from a secret recipe that uses espresso place to live and visit. before window-shopping amid the “The city combines the beans to enhance the rich flavor. 12 A.M. prettiness of the har- eclectic row of boutiques. Fopp offers Get your gay on in the blink-and-you’ll- bor—with its cafés and a deftly curated selection of books, 7 P.M. miss-it “,” where you’ll find bars—and the vibrancy that comes with a big music, and films at bargain prices. The Hidden in a metal-lined basement bank Bent and Queenshilling directly arts sector. There are Bristol Guild is stocked with locally vault, The Ox [5] is so much more across the street from each other. cool and interesting made ceramics and glassware. There is than simply Bristol’s best steakhouse. people who are opting swill and electro-pop thump to live just far enough plenty of street art to discover as well— Sure, the mains are superlative—and tracks come in different iterations away from the grinding like Banksy’s Well Hung Lover [3] at the waiters offer a crash course on depending on the evening (revenge of aspects of London, the intersection with Frogmore Street. but who can visit and beef cuts and cooking styles—but the the ’90s, anyone?) and draw in a steady work there easily on a If you’re wandering around in late June, side dishes and savvy cocktails make stream of the local folk until dawn. day trip.” DAVE PRATT (BRIDGE). SARAH CRUMB (PRESTONFIELD, ROSE STREET). IMAGESEF (EDINBURGHVIEW). COURTESY OF LOCATIONS

66 NOVEMBER 2015 O U T 84. EDINBURGH

When a city’s New Town is roughly 300 years old, you know there’s a lot of history to absorb; it’s the perfect spot to find great new takes on haggis or a cozy café where you can curl up with a book. The annual Fringe Festival—when the city’s population swells with jugglers, comedians, actors, and oddballs—brings in culture vultures, but Edinburgh has something for just about any visitor, any time of year. After traipsing the Royal Mile, from its imposing castle on a volcanic mountain to the Queen’s Holyrood Palace, be sure to wander through Haymarket’s bohemian thrift shops and pop into a pub. With all those bare men’s legs peeking from below their kilts, Scotland’s capital never disappoints.

85. PRESTONFIELD HOUSE Located just outside the city center in a quaint neighborhood, the lushly decorated former Lord Provost’s home (erected in 1687) is awash in crushed red velvet and gilded detail. The crimson aesthetic spills into the suites, giving it the feel of a chic, baroque bordello. The lavish breakfast spread will make you feel as pampered as past guests Grace of Monaco and Elton John. A framed portrait of Charles II hangs alone in an alcove since he’s reported to have wanted a room to himself. Who can blame him? Prestonfield.com

88. ROSE STREET A 10-minute walk from Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is Rose Street, or the “amber mile”—a stretch of pedestrian-only alleyways between the larger Princes Street and George Street in Georgian-era New Town. What was once a lineup of servants’ quarters and entrances—and, for a time, the red-light district— is now chockablock with restaurants, shops, and pubs 86. ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN 87. CC BLOOMS (hence “amber”). We liked the Let us count the reasons to make time for Edinburgh’s Named after the beloved Beaches Element pub and restaurant beautiful garden (founded in 1670). First: The elemental slate character (played by Bette Midler), (ElementEdinburgh.co.uk) cone by environmental sculptor Andy Goldsworthy sits in CC Blooms remains Edinburgh’s for its seafood and bite-sized perfect equilibrium with the surrounding lawns and trees. foremost gay meeting point. It’s in haggis balls (complete with Second: the Victorian Temperate Palm House, which—at 72 fact so iconic that “Do I know you neeps and tatties), and there feet—is the tallest glasshouse in Britain. Then, sniff the New from CC’s?” is local code for “Are were indeed more pubs than Reekie—the Scots’ nomenclature for the titan arum, one of the you gay?” Less of a dive than a you could sample in a month. world’s largest and smelliest flowers. We also love Inverleith glittery gay beacon, it’s the anchor Try the student-popular House, the 18th-century mansion at the center of the estate, for the city’s gay scene. completist pub-crawl at your one of Britain’s loveliest galleries of contemporary art. And CCBloomsEdinburgh.com own risk.

DAVE PRATT (BRIDGE). SARAH CRUMB (PRESTONFIELD, ROSE STREET). IMAGESEF (EDINBURGHVIEW). COURTESY OF LOCATIONS finally: It’s free. RBGE.org.uk

OUT NOVEMBER 2015 67 68 swimmers unafraid of the bracing, clear waters and magical surroundings. The lift? a of instead dip a Want hikers. trail for must-do a is around, miles for and cliffs, 19 miles of Thethe northernmost peninsula. 20 The hours. Hotel the range—a rough seven miles from traversing Climbers sea landscape. level British other any from departure todramatic the bar of the houses tours.are accessibleearth via walking sites) Iron Age subterranean and or burial (stone memorials cairns ancient Many communities. covered been hasn’t bedroom up byand motorways settlements of human oldest evidence the mean inhospitability agricultural dramatic and ripe for Instagramming. aren’t that metersa offew land square hardly are There surface. the scratch only could days of sightseeing that means islands tidal and waterfalls, bays, coastlines, jagged lakes, ranges, of mountain but immensity the Highlands. Scottish the of coast the off place romantic misty, a It’s (“island”). BosvilleHotel.co.uk at midnight. out we stumbled when sky the glow left barely had late—the ‘til bright stay skies In summer, Scottish the night. into the well swill sipping and stone, of wood walls the Travelers unite between isles. and its Scotland and gins from kies but you should set your sights on the whis cocktails, and craft wine serves inside Bar Merchant harbor. smart The picturesque town’s the a overlooking hotel at Bosville, up and ended settlement, of Skye’s biggest Isle the to Portree, We our noses followed 92 ably, with no natural forpredators miles. peep chubby seals that flop around ador gardens, hop touron aof soggy the loch to destroyed the entire place. a out firehave could put that even helped maybe to win used battles—and has been the flag possesses magical properties and has it that Legend feel. ethereal certain a castle the lend Fairy Flag and tattered setting loch-side idyllic The in Scotland. castle inhabited continuously is oldest the Castle Dunvegan years, for 800 MacLeod of Clan ofchiefs the home ancestral The 90 largest island probably comes from the Norse words Hebrides’ Inner of the name The by chance. didn’t getmoniker Skye its THE ISLE OF SKYE For sheer camera-ready topography, the the topography, camera-ready sheer For the remoteness relative and hunters—the for great is history Skye widest, at its 25 miles just long and 50 miles approximately is island The After oglingAfter the antiques and formal

. MERCHANT BAR AT THE BOSVILLE BOSVILLE AT THE BAR MERCHANT . . DUNVEGAN CASTLE DUNVEGAN . NOVEMBER Fairy Pools of Glen Brittle Glen of Pools Fairy ( Sligachan.co.uk The OldThe ofMan Storr

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SARAH CRUMB (DUNVEGAN, KINLOCH, CLAN DONALD, THISTLES, CAMERON). KEN HANLEY (HEILAN COO, SEALS). DANIEL BARQUERO (PORTREE). LUIS ASCENSO (QUIRAING). COURTESY OF G&V HOTEL. VISITSCOTLAND (GLENFINNAN). COURTESY OF INVERARAY CASTLE. DENNIS HARDLEY PHOTOGRAPHY (ERISKA) 90 90 Quirang 93

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But you won’t from us. any hear complaints TO BREAK THEM TO BREAK Downton Downton G&V Hotel ), who will fi), who youwill design a new one, tartan—or nd your clan lake. on the land and off take tours seaplane Cessna watch and seafood, fresh for Boathouse breezier,a to nip bit the down For something available. kies there are more than 200 whis- Bar, where Scots Great the and Grill Cameron at the continues swagger The Crawford. Gavin designer to Scottish thanks chic, of masculine epitome Lomond near are the on Loch mansion baronial informer this rooms The 98 . CAMERON HOUSE CAMERON . ( QuorvusCollection.com PreferredHotels.com 95 . 21stCenturyKilts.com ghillie brogues ghillie OUT www. fantasies. castaway of place the take details posh getaway, where anti-island is This the contemporary). is notably design, wood sleek its with spa, (the touches modern and service classic by of wowed Eriska’s mix We were list. wine 40-page a with restaurant starred epic hotel and a Michelin- an include accommodations of luxury acres 350 The 99 HOTEL ; pictured above).; pictured . ISLE OF ERISKA ERISKA OF ISLE .

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