A buyer’s guide to fit, function, and fashion BY MARGARET FREEMAN CHOICES, CHOICES: If you can dream it, you can probably get it 40 October 2013 t USDF CONNECTION ith dressage coats becoming more fash- ion-forward over the last few years, tall dressage boots are marching right along with them. WTe catalogs are still mostly flled with smooth-leather black boots, but colored leather is now fairly common for training wear and even occasionally at shows. If you are willing to spring for custom, you can get pretty much any color you want, with interesting detailing as well. Patterned leathers—ridges, swirls, or even crocodile—are also crop- ping up. For further interest, custom boots ofer cufs at the top of the boots in contrasting colors and patterns. But selecting a pair of riding boots is about much more than fashion. A well-ftted boot protects a rider’s feet and legs and can even enhance her leg position. Popular op- tions, such as zippers and elastic gussets, ease the task of getting into and out of snug-ftting boots. In this article, we’ll explain how to fnd the best ft, cut, and options for your needs—and then we’ll delve into the latest fashion trends, in and out of the show arena. What’s a Dressage Boot, Anyway? Most tall riding boots seen in dressage competition are what’s known as dress boots—boots without laces. Tall boots that lace across the instep are called feld boots, so named because they were originally used in fox hunting at informal meets. Away from the hunt feld, feld boots are more common in the hunter and jumper rings, although they are often seen in lower-level dressage and are permitted at all levels. (See “Boot Rules” below for more on what’s allowed in com- petition.) Some catalogs and manufacturers make a further dis- tinction between a “dress boot” and a “dressage boot.” “Dressage boot” usually indicates more rigid leather, with the boot shaft set on the foot at a slight forward angle be- cause the ankle is less fexible. Dress boots used to have round tops, but preference for a Spanish top (outside higher than inside) has evolved. Tere can be a diference of up to 7 cm (almost 3 inches) between inside and outside. Te Spanish top is popular be- cause it makes the rider’s leg appear longer. Boot Rules For schooling, you can wear any kind of footwear you want—but always choose boots or shoes with heels for safe- ty reasons. If you plan to compete at a dressage show that operates JENNIFER BRYANT under US Equestrian Federation rules (this includes many USDF CONNECTION t October 2013 41 through First Level if they match the color of the paddock boots, are made of smooth leather or leather-like material, and don’t have fringe. Note: Black boots are required for tests above Fourth Level at USEF-licensed/USDF-recog- nized shows. At FEI-recognized shows (CDIs), boots must be either black or the same color as the riding coat. Shopping Options Boot shopping can rank right up there in frustration level with the search for saddles and breeches. If local choices are limited, you need to either travel or take a chance with mail order. If the boots you order aren’t quite right, you might be stuck with boots that are uncomfortable or that you can’t wear at all. Tat’s why, whether you’re looking for fashion options or just trying to fnd boots that ft, we advise frst tapping local resources. Te ideal is a nearby tack shop that stocks a wide selection of boot sizes so that you can try them on ALWAYS CORRECT: Te traditional black boot is allowed in all right there. Tat’s a big advantage because “You don’t al- dressage competition. Olympian Guenter Seidel is wearing dress boots ways ft into what you measure,” according to Beth Haist, (boots without laces) with Spanish tops that extend above the outsides of the knees. owner of Te Horse of Course tack shop in Claremore OK, whose mobile unit travels to Florida and to major shows in schooling shows), then you need to know the USEF dres- the East. sage rules regarding attire. Te reason: Working with a natural material like leather Tall boots or jodhpur boots (paddock boots) are re- can result in variations, as you undoubtedly know from try- quired for tests through Fourth Level. (Jodhpur boots and ing on leather shoes. In boots, which have not only shoe jodhpurs are usually seen on younger children, although sizes but calf widths and heights, the variables are multi- riders of any age may wear them.) Color is not specifed. plied. Te time of day and the temperature and humidity Half-chaps (leggings) in solid black or brown are allowed levels at the time that you are measured can afect your “size” and result in a diferent ft when your boots fnally arrive. If it takes a couple months for the boots to arrive and I Hate My New Boots! you’ve lost or gained several pounds in the meantime, that’s Now What? also a factor. Next best would be a tack shop that employs a boot- efore you place an order, make sure you measuring specialist who can order what you want. Such understand the seller’s return policy—and Bwhether returns are allowed at all. For ex- retailers often represent specifc manufacturers. Be aware ample, you may be able to return boots in a limited that your “custom” order may not be bespoke in the true amount of time if you’ve only worn them inside your sense: In many cases, what you get is a ready-made boot home on a carpeted foor, but not if you’ve ridden pulled from a wider stock of measurements than the shop in them. Find out whether the seller will take back a itself can carry. stock boot or even custom-ordered boots. If a ready-made boot doesn’t suit your measurements, or If you decide to keep the boots (or you’re stuck if you are seeking custom detailing, you may need to delay with them) but they don’t break in to your satisfac- your boot shopping until you can visit a boot haven like the tion, know that some tack shops have resources to Wellington, FL, area or a major dressage show that attracts make ft adjustments. Failing that, fnd out if there a variety of boot vendors, such as Dressage at Devon (PA). is a tack shop or a shoe-repair shop in your area that If local resources aren’t available and a visit to a boot can insert or repair zippers, add elastic inserts, cut Mecca isn’t in the cards, then you’ll need to resort to order- down the back of the knee, and stretch boots. ing boots online or from a catalog. Be aware that there is little 42 October 2013 t USDF CONNECTION consistency in sizing personal preference: among brands, and Some dressage each maker has its riders love very own size chart. Fol- stif riding boots, low our ftting pro- while others can’t tocol (see “Measur- stand them. ing guide” below), A boot’s stif- and study the charts ness depends on carefully before you the type of leather order. used and whether the boot is lined. Tradi- Measuring tional dressage riding boots have a “whale- Guide bone” stifener in the Here’s how to measure for shaft to minimize riding boots, based on in- the amount of drop. formation from several Tat’s why many dres- boot makers. You’ll need sage boots with zip- the following: pers have the zipper in • Chair the front rather than • Friend up the back. • Flexible measuring tape FASHION-FORWARD: With today’s custom boot options, you can get whatever Elastic gussets at • Your regular breeches you can dream up. A custom-boot vendor at Dressage at Devon (PA) ofered the tops of the boots (clockwise from top left) an array of colors and top/toe options (the blue boot at and socks. right is a feld boot, with laces), patriotic tops, and a variety of styles in today’s can relieve calf strain. If your calves tend to hot color: brown. Some boots have an swell in the heat or at cer- elastic insert all the tain times or circumstanc- way up the back, so es—say, in the late afternoon or after you’ve been sitting for precision ftting is not an issue. Some higher-end boots a while—that’s when you’ll want to measure. have a “window” of softer leather on the insides of the Wearing your regular socks and breeches but without calves for those who want a less-rigid connection with the shoes on, sit in a chair with your legs bent at a 90-degree horse’s sides while retaining the stifness of the boot shaft. angle. Have your friend measure the circumference of both If you plan to purchase ready-made boots, you will need calves at the widest part. Ten measure the leg length from to determine whether the models you like have the options the foor to the crease at the back of the knee. Check to see you require. Besides color and stifness, available options whether the ftting chart uses inches or centimeters, and may include type of leather, lining, ankle cut, sole material, note measurements accordingly. Most measuring tapes list gussets, spur rests, zipper placement, toe design, and spur inches on one side and centimeters on the other.