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© and thevisitorwillmisspoint,Qatarintobargain. foranythingless,ortrytopickovercome toQatarlooking thebonesof19th-centuryArabia, sophisticated nationofthe21st-century, cladinrusticated brick,polished steel andglass: tournaments;andEducationCity.Qatarisa fabulous shoppingmalls;international sports rapid economicexpansionbarely bytheglobalrecession; brooked businessconferences; unforgiving modernbuildings; spectacular pieceofGulfandtheywillsayDoha;Al-Corniche; and cultured endeavour. of yearsgrazing,agriculture, oilexplorationandotherno-longer-visible humanactivity remotely ‘savage’.Even theinterior, ofthousands which lookswildenough,istheproduct or the‘real’ isn’teven amongwhatremains ofthecountry’shistory–anditmostcertainly life.‘noble savage’nature ofdesert hintattheruinsofempire;nature; andtheoddlow-slungBedouintent forts suggeststhe stereotype: there testifying are tohumanenduranceagainsttheadversities of rockcarvings centuries ofbeguilingOrientalism.Qatarhasameagre share oftheelementsthatsatisfy for signsof‘Arabia’withalltheexoticbaggagethathascollected tothatterm over three chances are you’llmissthecountryaltogether. It’salwaystempting in thePeninsula tosearch for Go looking plainand Qatar initssouthernsanddunesorthewindsweptnorthern Qatar 258

L Ask theQataris,Bedouinrootsnotwithstanding,whattheyare mostproudofintheir But Qatarisn’taboutWestern forthe‘old’ misconceptionsofArabia. Itisn’taboutlooking FS FACTS FAST o n          e Surprises Stereotypes Annualnumberoftourists HeadofState HamadbinKhalifa Sheikh Countrycode Population838,100 Area 11,586sqkm Capital OfficialnameQatar money thansense than money al-Thani l y

P l a n e t An oilrichstate withmore sense An oilrichstate withmore x 974 1 million ﻗﻄﺮ QATAR 259 Ras Abu Abboud Al Safliyeh T H E Al-Wakrah Ras Al Allak G U L F Airport International Doha Al-Dakhira DOHA Al-Khor Sumaismah 00 20 km 12 miles Al-Khisah Al-Huwailah Al-Khor Gardens Jebel Jassassiyeh Fuwairit Al-Ghariya Al-Wukair Khor Umm al-Adaid Salal Ali Al-Rayyan Mukeinis EMIRATES Madinat Al-Shamal Al-Ruweis Mohammed UNITED ARAB Al-Jumailiyah Al-Zubara Al-Shahaniya Al-Jumail Al-Ghuwairiyah Uqlat Zuawayed Dawhat al-Husayn ha n e l Duk Ras Abu Amran b Al-Arish Je Al-Khuwair Salwa Bir As for when to go, that’s a different mat- for when to go, that’s a different As escarpment at Bir at Bir escarpment and search for oys- washed-up of full on a shore a pearl interior the historic Cast over an eye ters. ) and 280 (p Mohammed at Umm Salal ), or 280 Salal Ali (p Umm neighbouring sports at Sea- R&R and water enjoy some something ). For 279 line Beach Resort (p at the stay overnight adventurous, more sea inland Khorenchanting al-Adaid of and in the gossiping dunes ), picnic 279 (p sand.sleep of on a magic carpet Salwa QATAR Dawhat Hawar Islands (200km) To Al-Hofuf Zekreet of Qatar is unforgiving. During summer (May During summer (May Qatar is unforgiving. of average generally to September), temperatures for the mercury 35°C, but it’s not uncommon to rise to 50°C. The 90% humidity that comes the Peninsula year sags over with this time of sandstorms and frequent a bad hangover, like months an added irritation. The winter are milder, with pleasant, even much chilly are evenings and the odd rainy day, especially in December and January. international For the sports-minded, key ter. CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO CLIMATE across the plains climate half the year, the For Absorb the best of Doha Doha the best of Absorb •• Highlights QATAR (p 279 ) Take a dune for a a dune for a ) Take 279 (p (p 269 ) Step into the past in into the past in ) Step 269 (p (p 269 ) Step into the future by into the future ) Step 269 (p (p 282 ) Set a up camp under 282 (p After a day exploring modern a day exploring modern After Take a trip around the en- Take (p 280 ) Discover there is more to is more there ) Discover 280 (p

the city’s most labyrinthine souq, with its labyrinthine souq, with the city’s most textiles. spices and shimmering tire peninsula, calling in on the fishing tire ) and 281 Al-Ruweis (p communities of ). Camp out under the 282 Al-Zubara (p central Doha, go in search of the city’s go in searchcentral Doha, of for bangles in the origins by bartering ). Spend the discount 278 Gold Souq (p want at on something you didn’t really ); spare 278 (p the Secondhand Market in the dirhams for a pink chick a few ); and then 277 (p Animal & Bird Market shop for falcons at the Thursday/Friday a car and imagine ). Hire 277 (p market the falcons flying in the shrubby interior them as ), or watch 280 near Al-Khor (p the camel races at Al- they circle over Shahaniya (p 282 ). pillow and the stars for a blanket, at this for a blanket, pillow and the stars beautiful ‘inland sea’. ), 269 (p corniche by promenading the skyline dance stellar the city’s watching at the Museumin the heat. Cool down priceless Doha’s ), 269 (p Islamic Arts of a seeking house, of before gems treasure among the pots and pans, kind different bunnies silks and spices, and bargain for ). Pause 269 for sale in Souq Waqif (p juice in Arabian-style Al- pomegranate ) and watch 275 MourjanRestaurant (p Doha’s the sun put a glint in the eye of at by the beach bay. Recharge pretty ) and hit the 275 Continental (p Doha Inter night running at the convivial hotspot, ) – or at the city’s equally 276 (p Paloma friendly cool-spot, the City Center-Doha ). 278 ice rink. (p Qatar than Doha in this former pearl- in Qatar than Doha coast. on the northeastern fishing village desertthe waders mushroom or watch in nearby shallows. walking along Doha’s sparkling seafront, Doha’s walking along finest mod- the region’s with decorated ern buildings. For Expats Three Days Qatar Stopover Khoral-Adaid Al-Khor Bir Zekreet Souq Waqif Al-Corniche        

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