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Tierra Del Fuego ©Lonely¨Planet¨Publications¨Pty¨Ltd Tierra del Fuego Why Go? Ushuaia......................489 The southernmost extreme of the Americas, this windswept Parque Nacional archipelago is alluring as it is moody – at turns beautiful, an- Tierra del Fuego ........504 cient and strange. Travelers who first came for the ends-of- the-earth novelty discover a destination that’s far more com- Puerto Williams (Chile) ........................ 507 plex than these bragging rights. Intrigue still remains in a past storied with shipwrecks, indigenous peoples and failed Tolhuin & missions. In Tierra del Fuego, nature is writ bold and reck- Lago Fagnano ............508 less, from the scoured plains, rusted peat bogs and mossy Río Grande .................509 lenga forests to the snowy ranges above the Beagle Channel. Estancias Around While distant and isolated, Tierra del Fuego is by no Río Grande ................. 510 means cut off from the mainland, though the Argentine half Porvenir (Chile) ......... 510 is far more developed than its Chilean counterpart. Ports buzz with commerce and oil refineries prosper while adven- ture seekers descend in droves to fly-fish, hike and start Ant- arctic cruises. Shared with Chile, this archipelago features Best Places to one large island, Isla Grande, Chile’s Isla Navarino and many Eat smaller uninhabited ones. ¨¨Kalma Resto (p502) ¨¨Kaupé (p502) ¨¨María Lola Restó (p498) When to Go ¨¨Chiko (p498) Ushuaia °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨Chez Manu (p502) 40/104 10/250 30/86 8/200 Best Places to 20/68 6/150 Stay 10/50 4/100 0/32 2/50 ¨¨Galeazzi-Basily B&B -10/14 0 (p496) J F DNOSAJJMAM ¨¨Antarctica Hostel (p495) ¨¨Estancia Las Hijas (p510) Nov–Mar Warm- Mid-Nov–mid- Jul–Sep Optimal est months, Apr Fly-fishing for skiing, snow- ¨¨Hostería Yendegaia (p511) best for hiking, season. boarding or dog ¨¨Los Cauquenes Resort & penguin watch- sledding. Spa (p497) ing and estancia visits. 489 88 Getting¨There¨&¨Around History The most common overland route from Patago- In 1870 the British-based South American nia is via the ferry crossing at Punta delgada. Missionary Society set its sights on the Yah- Unlike the rest of Argentina, Tierra del Fuego gan (or Yamaná), a nomadic tribe whose has no designated provincial highways, but has members faced brutal weather conditions secondary roads known as rutas complementa- almost entirely naked – they didn’t have any rias, modified by a lowercase letter. References permanent shelter to keep clothing dry, and to such roads made here are given as ‘RC-a,’ for example. believed that the natural oil of their skin was better protection than soaking wet ani- if renting a car in mainland Argentina, be aware that you must cross in and out of Chile a mal fur. Charles Darwin branded them ‘the couple of times to reach Tierra del Fuego, and lowest form of humanity on earth.’ Mission- that this requires special documents and ad- ary Thomas Bridges didn’t agree. After years ditional international insurance coverage. Most among them, he created a Yahgan-English car-rental agencies can arrange this paperwork dictionary in the late 19th century, deeming if given advance notice. their language complex and subtle. At the time of writing, Chile was building an The mission made Ushuaia its first per- alternate road to the southern end of the island. manent Fuegian outpost, but the Yahgan, it currently links with Lago Fagnano, but a 4Wd who had survived 6000 years without con- vehicle is required. tact, were vulnerable to foreign-brought ill- Visitors can fly into Río Grande or Ushuaia. nesses and faced increasing infringement Buses take the ferry from Chile’s Punta delgada; by sealers, settlers and gold prospectors. all pass through Río Grande before arriving in Four Yámana, including a teenager dubbed Tierra del Fuego Ushuaia. ‘Jimmy Button,’ were kidnapped by the naval captain Robert Fitz Roy and shipped back to England to be educated and paraded as examples of gentrified savages. One died of Ush Uaia disease. After months of public criticism, % 02901 / PoP 57,000 Fitz Roy agreed to return the rest to their A busy port and adventure hub, the city homeland. of Ushuaia is a sliver of steep streets and The tribe’s legacy is now reduced to shell jumbled buildings below the snowcapped mounds, Thomas Bridges’ famous diction- UshG U s E TT Martial Range. Here the Andes meet the ary and Jimmy Button souvenirs. At the h U southern ocean in a sharp skid, making i A time of writing, one elderly Yamaná woman N i G way for the city before reaching a sea of was still alive on Isla Navarino, the only na- A lapping currents. tive speaker of the language. Th It’s a location matched by few, and chest- Between 1884 and 1947 the city became a E RE beating Ushuaia takes full advantage of its penal colony, incarcerating many notorious end-of-the-world status, with an increas- criminals and political prisoners, both here & A ing number of Antarctica-bound vessels and on remote Isla de los Estados. Since R calling in to port. Its endless mercantile 1950 the town has been an important naval OUN hustle knows no irony: the souvenir shop base. named for Jimmy Button (an indigenous d man kidnapped for show in England), the 1¨ Sights ski center named for a destructive invasive Paralleling the Beagle Channel, Av Maipú species…you get the idea. That said, with becomes Malvinas Argentinas west of the a pint of the world’s southernmost micro- cemetery, then turns into RN3, continuing brew in hand, you can happily plot the 12km to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. dazzling outdoor options: hiking, sailing, To the east, public access ends at Yaganes, skiing, kayaking and even scuba diving are which heads north to meet RN3 going north all just minutes from town. toward Lago Fagnano. Most visitor services Tierra del Fuego’s comparatively high are on or near Av San Martín, a block from wages draw Argentines from all over to re- the waterfront. settle here, and some locals lament the loss The tourist office distributes a free city- of small-town culture. Meanwhile, expan- tour map with information on the historic sion means that haphazard development houses around town. The 1894 Legislatura¨ is advancing in the few directions the mad Provincial (Provincial Legislature; Av Maipú 465) geography allows. was the governor’s official residence. The .
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