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GONDAR CULTURAL HERITAGE CONSERVATION

Introduction To Project In May 2014, the University of Minnesota College of Design students traveled to , for three weeks to study the UNESCO 17th century Royal Palaces Compound and its associated royal facilities. The team collaborated with local governmental agencies, the University of Gondar, and local conservation practitioners to create a database system for the Palace compound.

Utilizing fieldwork survey sheets developed by the team as a reporting procedure for their fieldwork, they then designed a digital database on site for the inventory of individual buildings within and beyond the compound. They expanded their documentation data by analyzing the structures’ functions, conditions, construction, materials and current state of the buildings in order to have an up to date database of information that would facilitate discussions about future management plans.

The University of Gondar organized a capacity building workshop which provided a space for collaboration between local conservationists, stakeholders, and government officials to propose conservation guidelines for urban development. This would help ensure the safeguarding of Fasil Ghebbi, and create strategies for historic urban management as a viable option for conservation. View From Fasil Ghebbi Castle Overall Site History In the early 1600’s Gondar was founded by Emperor as the first fixed capital of Ethiopia. There are many legends which describe the foundation of Gondar, one of them being a hermit’s advice to Emperor Fasilides, which consisted of him building his capital in an area which began with the letter “G”. Fasil Ghebbi would continue being the center of Ethiopian government until 1864. The city would evolve to contain many palaces, churches, monasteries, libraries, and a mix of private and public buildings. Its building styles were influenced by Hindu and Arab designs, and a mixture of baroque style that came along with the Jesuit missionaries that passed throught the country.

The first book on Gondar heritage was published in 1938 during the Italian occupation by Alessandro Augusto Monti Della Corte. His research included documented photos, maps and drawings of historic structures. His work was used in the Nomination Dossier for inscribing the Fasil Ghebbi compound as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Although renovation work has occured on the site, conditions of the walls, buildings and ruins Book cover and site map from I Castelli di Gondar publication. continue to deteriorate without a comprehensive conservation plan. (Augusto Monti Della Corte, Alessandro. I Castelli Di Gondar. Rome: Società Italiana Arti Grafiche, 1938.) People Involved

University of Minnesota and University of Gondar Team (left to right): Tianye Zhou, Kelsey Reinke, Tesfaye Fentaw, Dr. Arthur Chen, Tazebew Amare Chalachew (Charli) Bantiwalu Engdu Gebrewold Sisay Sahle Yenesew Alene, Allison Suhan,Loubna Houri, and Yirdaw Asfaw SITE MAP Location Of Castles And Ruins In Compound Legend

1 Fasil Castle 29 Kobastil Bridge II The collaborating university teams worked 2 Fasil Archive 30 Kobastil Bridge III and Kobastil Berr 3 Yohannes Chancelery 31 Fasil Castle Sauna Extention Complex on updating the existing site map and 4 Iyasu Castle 32 Iyasu To Fasil Extention 5 Dawit Castle 33 Fasil Castle Water Reservoir reflected changes that have occured over 6I Banqueting Hall 34 Fasil Sauna Extention I time. The boundaries used today for the 6II Bakaffa Stables 35 Fasil Sauna Ruins 7 Mintiwab Castle 36 Ruins map of Fasil Ghebbi are labeled as an 8 Mintiwab Sauna 37 Fasil Sauna Extention II 9 Balderas Berr 38 Guard’s Bridge unofficial certification of boundaries, which 10 Dewolt Bet and Michael Church Store 39 Wonber Berr were based on drawings done during 11 Debre Genet Atatami Micheal Church 40 Jan Tekel Berr 12 Shemanewoch House 41 Ruin at Fasil Castle Entrance I the Italian occupation in the 1930’s by 13 Dawit Sauna House Complex 42 Ruin at Fasil Castle Entrance II 14 Embilta Berr 43 Ruin at Fasil Castle Entrance III Alessandro Augusto Monti Della Corte. 15 Debre Tsiba Elfign Giorgh Church 44 Mekane Negest Gimja Bet Mariam Church 16 Elfign Giorgh Church Betelihem 45 Mekane Negest Gimja Bet Mariam Bethlehem 17 Elfign Giorgh Church Store 46 Mekane Negest Gimja Bet Mariam Store 18 Quali Berr 47 Gimja Bet Berr 19 Dockt House 48 Ecka Gimja Bet Berr 20 Dockt House Extention 49 Teskaro Berr 21 Dawit Castle Extention I 50 Elfign Berr 22 Dawit Castle Extention II (Main Reception Hall) 51 Enkoye Berr 23I Lion Cages 52 Gate New 23II Lion Cages 53 Ras Berr 24 Nuptial Ruins 54 Kechin Ashewa Berr 25 Ruins 55 Ergib Berr 26 Iyasu Castle Extention 56 Coronation Bridge 27 Kobastil Bridge I 28 Adenagir Berr

Map of the complex by the Italians in 1938 (Augusto Monti Della Corte) Armed with measuring devices, clipboards, survey and drawing forms, GPS, and a PROCESS site map we set out to the Fasil Ghebbi compound and document over 50 Sites.

Manual Documentation Archival Search Compile and Workshop

The team used laser and tape measures to document While in the Fasil Ghebbi compound they were granted access to the Then, they worked on digitalizing the dimensions of the remaining castles and structures. site’s documentation office and were able to find existing floor and their data and presented it at the They recorded the gathered data on the inventory section plans for many of the structures. They utilized these plans as University of Gondar workshop forms created, and drew out their measurements for references as they continued to document the compound. to develop viable options for the database. conservation. EMPEROR FASIL 1632 - 1667 Fasil Castle During the 16th and 17th century, the Ethiopian Emperor Fasilides claimed Gondar as the Empire’s capital and established a permanent city. Before that time, emperors would move their camps and lived in tents until 1636 with Fasilides establishing his empire in Gondar and naming it Fasil Ghebbi. Fasil Ghebbi would continue being the center of Ethiopian government until 1864. The city would go on to contain many palaces, churches, monasteries, libraries, and a mix of private and public buildings. Its building styles were influenced by Hindu and Arab designs, and a mixture of baroque style that came along with the Jesuit missionaries. Its presence as the capital for the royal empire is said to have pushed its influence over the designs that would become Ethiopian architectural styles.

Fasil Castle was constructed with a medieval exterior appearance in 1632-1667 out of stone and timber materials as a private residence for Emperor Fasilides. Fasil Castle is still in use today as a museum, although public access is only allowed on the first floor. On the main floor, the first room was the court room, followed by the men’s dining room and the women’s dining room adjacent to it. The ceilings and wood floors on the main level have been reconstructed, but details in the walls remain. The second floor consisted of Emperor Fasil’s Exterior view of castle leading towards the entrance. entertainment area as well as his dressing room. The third floor was the Emperor’s bedroom and provided the best views of the compound. Floor Plans and Sections

Locator Map Ground Floor Plan Transversal Section

Detailed Experience

timber framing

timber lintel

red volcanic stone arch

plaster alcove

Fasil Castle Interior Ceiling Detail - Kelsey Reinke, 6.2.14

Interior material details First room entered into from the entrance staircase, View towards women’s banquet hall and shared fireplace. Emperor’s dressing room shows remains of fresco designs. known as the court room. EMPEROR FASIL 1632 - 1667 Fasil Bath Located about three kilometers west of the city center, the bath of Emperor Fasilides is surrounded by a stone wall with seven entrances. It was once used for religious rites as well as sporting events and was connected to Fasil Ghebbi by a stone bridge so the Emperor did not need to go through the city to access his bath house. It was filled with water from the Qeha River nearby. Today, the site is filled annually for the epiphany ceremony that attracts locals and tourists alike.

Overgrowth is enveloping the stone wall around the perimeter.

Underside of main floor.

The top two levels were inhabitable while the ground level View of main facade of Fasil Bath from entrance. would be filled with water for the baths. Chuches Within Fasil Ghebbi Emperor Fasilides built three churches on the Fasil Ghebbi compound- Debre Tsiba Elfign Giorgh Church (St. George’s Church), Debre Genet Atatami Micheal Church (St. Michael’s Church) and Mekane Negest Gimja Bet Mariam Church (St. Mary’s). Over time Gondar came to be known as the “city of 44 churches” with some of the earliest residing inside the compound walls. Ethiopian Orthodox churches have either circular or rectangular floor plans that mandate that women enter the church from the right while men enter from the left.

Inside is a square room in the center known Location of the Elfign Giorgh Church. Floorplan of the Elfign Giorgh Church. Exterior of the Elfign Giorgh Church. as the “holiest of holies” or “debir.” Only priests and deacons are permitted within this chamber where a replica of the Ark of the Covenant is housed.

Location of Atatami Micheal Church in Floor Plan of the Atatami Micheal Church. Exterior of the Atatami Micheal Church. Fasil Ghebbi.

The priest of Elfign Giorgh Church who showed the team the history of renovations done to the site. EMPEROR YOHANNES 1667 - 1682

Yohannes’ Chancellery Emperor Fasil’s son, Emperor Yohannes is best known for not collecting taxes and being an early advocate for animal rights. He installed a bell in a tree behind the castle for people to ring when they believed any injustice had occurred. It is also said that a donkey abused by his owner came to the bell in the tree during a rainstorm and rang it. This alerted Yohannes and he subsequently punished the owner for his behaviors and began his animal rights movement.

Main facade of Yohannes’ Chancellery Yohannes’ Chancellery originally had a library on the main floor and his chambers on the second floor where the exterior stairs lead to. The Chancellery has been greatly altered through its history of restorations, the most prominent change being the stuccoed exterior and insensitive window installation done by an Italian team in the 1930s. Today the building is used as the site’s archives and proved to be invaluable for the team’s research.

Yohannes Chancellery - Allison Suhan, 6.3.2014 The Chancellery sits northwest of Fasil’s Castle. Details of roofline, including a Gondar Cross adorning the center. EMPEROR IYASU 1682 - 1706 Iyasu’s Castle

Emperor Iyasu built his castle directly behind Emperor Fasil’s castle and cistern and he elaborately decorated the interior with silver, gold, precious stones and ivory. Unlike his father Yohannes, Emperor Iyasu collected taxes from Ethiopia as The remains of the arched ceiling. well as and Egypt to fund his extravagant taste.

The castle contains a double spiral staircase on the northeast corner capped by a egg-shaped cupola. Inside, the arched ceiling is embellished with red stone that compliments the details around the arched windows.

Iyasu exterior & interior spiral stair detail - Kelsey Reinke, 6.3.14 Detail of the double spiral staircase.

View of the main entrance on the southwest facade to Iyasu’s Castle EMPEROR DAWIT 1711 - 1716

Debre Birhan Silassie Church

The Debre Birhan Silassie (Light of the Trinity) Church is seen from the outside as a plain rectangular stone church with corrugated steel and thatch roof. It was constructed in 1711-1716 by the grandson of Fasilidas, Iyasu the Great. The church survived the in 1888 between Egypt and Sudan. Its existence provides researchers with a better understanding of the lifestyle and rituals of the Ethiopian civilization as it is the only church to remain exactly as it was. It is rumored that this is due to a timely swarm of bees intervening in the Mahdists’ attempts to destory the church.

The entrance gate and walls to enter the Silassie courtyard are inspired by a lion. The body is represented in the layout of the gate, with the wall coiling in like a tail with it ending as an entrance to rear of the compound. Within the stone confines of the chuch, the interior walls and ceiling are all painted, showcasing scenes from religious history. View from gate entrance to the church. Around The Site Floor Plan

View of the entrance gate from the interior of the site. Wall materials consisting of mud, hay, and plaster. The top level is the head of the lion, while the four arches Ground Floor Plan represent its paws.

bamboo

metal

masonry

Religious paintings and stories along the church walls and ceiling Roof construction detail Detailed view of painted ceiling EMPEROR DAWIT 1711 - 1716 Dawit’s Castle

Emperor Dawit contributed a music hall to the castle complex that was divided by a thick stone wall to separate the spiritual music played on the left with the secular music that would be played on the right. It appears that the building originally had two stories and entrances in to the hall from all four sides. Unfortunately, Emperor Dawit was unable to enjoy this hall very long as he was poisoned by his brother Bakaffa who became his successor.

Northern lion cages. Lion cages built in to the earth.

Lion Cages

The lion cages, also known as Anbesa Bet, are said to have contained stout, black maned lions, but are a questionable feature in the compound. When reviewing past site maps, it appears that the cages may have been moved or reconstructed, if they even orginally existed on the compound at all. Interior of the music hall facing north west. EMPEROR BAKAFFA 1721 - 1730 Bakaffa’s Banquet Hall and Stables Emperor Bakaffa built a large castle in the back, northwest corner of the compound that included a banquet hall and stables. When facing the structure, the banquet hall was on the right, while the horses resided in the stables on the left. Horses were placed in the individual stable doors in order of their ranking official with the highest ranked in the innermost stable.

Banquet hall exterior (on right).

Stable doors on the left. Rear of Bakaffa’s banquet hall with scaffolding. Interior of stables. Banquet hall under restoration. EMPERESS 1730 - 1755

Mentewab’s Castle Empress Mentewab was the wife of Emperor Bakaffa and was rumored to have poisoned him. She ruled for nearly forty years after her husband died and served another ten years as Queen Regent to her son. She created a school for spinning cotton for women in Gondar situated near her residence. Mentewab also hosted the first beauty pagent in Ethiopia and won, yet it should be noted that she was the only participant.

Her castle sits at the rear of the Fasil Ghebbi and is built in to the compound walls. It is a two-and-a-half story structure adorned with Gondarian crosses above the second story windows made of red tuff while the walls are built of basalt rock . Mentewab also had a residence outside the complex known as Qusquam that is built in a similar style.

Ongoing restoration work is being done to Mentewab’s Castle due to severe structural integrity issues. Large cracks in the walls are being Exterior of Mentewab’s Castle braced as well as entire facades being supported.

Conservation efforts to mitigate cracks on the western wall

Section A-A' Section C-C' Mintiweb Castle - Allison Suhan 06.03.2014 0 1 2 3 4 5 m 0 1 2 3 4 5 m Details of Gondarian crosses and red tuff accents around windows. Mentewab’s Sauna

Empress Mentewab had a private sauna that opened to her courtyard. The compound contained several saunas with them all containing the equivalent of a jacuzzi, pharmacy, and had a safe for visitors’ belongings. Animal horns were placed in the stone and used as hooks to hang clothes.

From top left, clockwise: • Exterior of sauna with wood scaffolding • Rear of sauna facing in to Mentewab’s courtyard • Horns in the wall used as hooks • Storage built in to the wall.

Holes in the roof of the sauna for ventilation. INTERNATIONAL WORKSHOP

Workshop

To conclude the research team’s work and visit, the University of Gondar Department of Tourism Management held an international workshop to present the research findings and provide a space for heritage tourism stakeholders throughout Ethiopia to gather and discuss conservation issues. Guests included staff from the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Authority for Research and Conservation of Cultural Heritage, the City of Gondar Culture and Tourism Department, and Northern Gondar Administrative Zone for Culture and Tourism.

An opening speech was given by Dr. Desalegn Mengesha, the Vice President for Academics at the University of Gondar. Dr. Mengesha presented the overall goal of the workshop was to draft a conservation management plan incorporating views from all the stakeholders present through utilizing the work conducted by the University of Minnesota and University of Gondar research team. She also addressed the current state of tourism within Gondar as well as Ethiopia as a whole. There are many resources to create a successful tourism industry, but tourism remains low. Stakeholders need to create a better correlation between Gondar’s resources and tourism. The research team at the international workshop.

Dr. Mengesha welcoming workshop participants. Open discussion with researchers and stakeholders. University of Gondar faculty at the workshop. University of Minnesota students at the workshop.

Following the opening remarks, the University of Minnesota team presentated their digital inventory of World Heritage sites in Gondar. They also proposed the next steps for the site and research which included identifying exact site boundaries, creating a distinct buffer zone to protect the site from future urban expansion, and integrating the community and the government for an effective management strategy for Gondar’s heritage resources.

Mr. Sisay Sahle of the Gondar City Culture, Tourism, and Sport Department, then presented on the highlights of World Heritage Sites of Gondar. He built off of the research team’s condition assessments of the structures and an overview of all of the heritage sites within the city.

Conservational challenges of heritage sites was presented by Leul Yohannes from the Department of Tourism Management, University of Gondar. He identified factors that threaten Ethiopian heritage sites such as weak proclaimations and poor Allison Suhan, Engdu Gebrewold, and Kelsey Reinke during the tea break. museum management strategies as well as unprofessional conservation practices. He gave examples of past conservation efforts consisting of replacing a thatch roof with corrugated iron sheets, wood and mud buildings being filled in with stone, and urbanization and development activities enchroching on sites. Leul also addressed the underdeveloped fire accident protection strategies and threat of soil erosion that need to be addressed to protect sites. He used the analogy of a mirror to convey the importance of Ethiopian heritage management stating, “Heritage is a priceless mirror. If properly handled and conserved, it will help us see our past, present, and future. If improperly handled, it will dim our past. If not conserved, it will be broken.”

After the presentations, the conference held a lunch followed by group discussions amongst heritage tourism stakeholders throughout Ethiopia to draft a management plan. Closing remarks were made by Mrs. Meseret Getaneh, Dean of the College of Business and Economics at the University of Gondar, that summerized the various group discussions and created an action plan for all involved. Hosted workshop lunch with traditional Ethiopian cusine. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Amesegenallo (Thank You)

This project was conducted by: Special thanks to our friends at: Professor Arthur Chen, Director of the Center for World Heritage Studies University of Gondor Department of Tourism Management: Allison Suhan, M.S. Heritage Conservation & Preservation, University of Minnesota • Yenesew Alene • Ashenafi Tafesse Loubna Houri, M.Arch, University of Minnesota • Engdu Gebrewold • Yechale Mihret Tianye Zhou, M.Arch, University of Minnesota • Solomon Lingerih • Leul Yohannes Kelsey Reinke, BDA, University of Minnesota Yirdaw Asfaw, M.S. Tourism Management, Univeristy of Gondar Fasil Ghebbi Castle Compound: Tesfaye Fentaw, M.S. Tourism Management, University of Gondar • Sisay Sahle • Chalachew (Charli) Bantiwalu • Tazebew Amare GATES & BRIDGES Gate Layout and Ledgend A Wonber (Judges) Berr The walls surrounding the B Guard’s Bridge C Kobastil Bridge III and Kobastil Berr Fasil Castle compound D Kobastil (Remove Your Hat) Bridge II E Adenagir (Confusing/Secret)Berr has 12 berrs (gates) and F Kobastil Bridge I multiple bridges, providing G Quali (Beautician) Berr H Embilta (Flute Player) Berr passage ways between I Balderas (Calvary) Berr J Ergib (Pigeon) Berr the compound and its K Kechin Ashewa (Fine Sandstone) Berr L Ras (Regional/Local Leader) Berr surrounding structures. M Gate New Each Berr and bridge N Enkoye (Nuns) Berr O Elfign (Elfign Giorgh Church) Berr served specific functions P Teskaro (Funeral Celebration) Berr Q Ecka Gimja Bet (Holy Treasures) Berr which are represented in R Gimja Bet (Treasure House) Berr their names. S Jan Tekel (Jan Tekel Tree) Berr The gates and bridges are labeled in a counter- clockwise order starting at the main entrance. Gate and Bridge Views

Kobastil Bridge I with recent repairs and structural supports for the bridge.

Ecka Gimja Bet Berr (Gate of Church Goods), it is also the entrance to the Mariam Church and serves as a local market.

Wonber Berr (Gate of the Judges), it is the current entrance to the castle compound Adenagir Berr (Confusion Gate)

Excursion to the Mountains

The group was able to take in the beauty of the nearby Simien Mountains, another World Heritage Site of Ethiopia about 140 kilometers from Gondar. The area was designated as a national park in 1966, but parts of the forest have been designated as a forest reserve since the 15th century and is the oldest protected area in Africa. It became a natural World Heritage Site in 1978 due to its biodiversity and high number of endemic species as well as its exceptional beauty.

It was a fantastic camping excursion in to the mountains filled with adventure as the team befriended Gelada Baboons, walked amongst the Walia Ibex, sighted the elusive Simien Fox, and endured a powerful thunderstorm in tents as the jaguars and hyenas cried in the distance. AROUND THE CITY City Overview

Following the construction of the Fasil Ghebbi compound, the city of Gondar has continued to grow and has been expanding around the historic complex for more than a thousand years. Surrounding it today is a blend of traditional shops, a small city center, and more modern concrete structures built by the Italians who who occupied Gondar in World War II. View of the city with Fasil Ghebbi surrounded by trees.

Gondar city center with a statue of Emperor Atse Tewodros as the central focus.

Local Saturday Market

Incense stall Coffee roasting pots Market Street

Traditional local wear Shop window A RCHIVING RUINS “Ruins” Layout ARCHIVINGA RCHIVING RUINS LEGEND: There are plenty of ruins There areA. manySHEMANEWOCH ruins HOUSE interspersed throughout the “Ruins” Layout B. DAWIT SAUNA HOUSE COMPLEX Fasil GhebbiC. QUALI compound.BERR In the shadow of Fasil’s Castle intersperse in the Fasil D. DOCKT HOUSE E. DOCKT HOUSE EXTETION LEGEND: There are plenty of ruins which reflectsF. DAWIT CASTLE the EXTETION glory I of the past,A. SHEMANEWOCHthese HOUSE remains are a A Castle compound. G. DAWIT CASTLE EXTETION II (main reception hall) B. DAWIT SAUNA HOUSE COMPLEX intersperse in the Fasil reminderH. ofLIONES the CAGES years of change, turmoil,C. QUALI BERR takeovers, and I. NUPITAL RUINS D. DOCKT HOUSE Comparing with the B E. DOCKT HOUSE EXTETION C J. IYASU CASTLE EXTETION F. DAWIT CASTLE EXTETION I Castle compound. neglect theK. ADENAGIR compound BERR A also suffered.G. DAWIT CASTLE EXTETION II (main reception hall) G D L. KOBASTIL BRIDGE II H. LIONES CAGES I. NUPITAL RUINS gaint Fasil castel which Comparing withF the M. FASIL CASTLE SAUNAB EXTETION COMPLEX H C J. IYASU CASTLE EXTETION E N. IYASU TO FASIL EXTETION K. ADENAGIR BERR G X O. FASIL CASTLE WATER RESERVOIR D L. KOBASTIL BRIDGE II re ectes the glory of gaint Fasil castel which P. FASIL SAUNA EXTETION I F M. FASIL CASTLE SAUNA EXTETION COMPLEX H Q. RUINS E N. IYASU TO FASIL EXTETION I A Shemanewoch (Weavers) HouseX O. MFASIL CASTLEFasil WATER Castle RESERVOIR Sauna Extension re ectes the glory of R. FASIL SAUNA EXTETION II P. FASIL SAUNA EXTETION I the past dynasty, this J S. GARDS' BRIDGE Q. RUINS B Dawit Sauna House ComplexI N Iyasu to Fasil Extension T. RUIN AT FASIL CASTLE ENTERANCE I R. FASIL SAUNA EXTETION II K the past dynasty, this C QualiU. (Beautician) RUIN AT FASIL CASTLE Berr ENTERANCE IIJ S. OGARDS' Fasil BRIDGE Castle Water Reservoir T. RUIN AT FASIL CASTLE ENTERANCE I remnant presents the V. RUIN AT FASIL CASTLE ENTERANCE III K W D Dockt (Flour) House U. P RUIN ATFasil FASIL CASTLE Sauna ENTERANCE Extension II I remnant presents the L W. CORONATION BRIDGE V. RUIN AT FASIL CASTLE ENTERANCE III W N L W. CORONATION BRIDGE V M X. RUINS U E Dockt House Extension N Q Ruins V X. RUINS deterioration that the U M deterioration that theO P O F Dawit Castle Extension I P R Fasil Sauna Extension II

R Q R Q compound suered compound sueredT G Dawit Castle ExtensionT II (Main reception hall) S Gards Bridge H Lion Cages T Ruin at Fasil Castle Entrance I after they fell into I Nuptial Ruins S U Ruin at Fasil Castle Entrance II after they fell into S disuse. J Iyasu Castle Extension V Ruin at Fasil Castle Entrance III disuse. K Adenagir Berr W Coronation Bridge L Kobastil Bridge II X Ruins “Ruins” Views “Ruins” Views

Dawit sauna house complex

Dawit sauna house complex

Fasil sauna ruins

Fasil sauna ruins

Ruins of Gards' bridge, connection with Fasil castle Ruins of Gards' bridge, connection with the exterior wall.

Ruins of Gards' bridge, connection with Fasil castle Ruins of Gards' bridge, connection with the exterior wall.