Preface Both editors of this book are analytical chemists who have been working together for more than eight years on the development and validation of analytical methods for cosmetic products, and particularly in the field of sunscreen products. In this multi-author book, we would like to share our experience in this field with our readers and give them advice, with the help of the other authors participating in this book, on the choice, which is often difficult, of suitable analytical methods for production mon- itoring and quality control of cosmetic products according to their composition. To do this, we have tried to give the reader extensive and varied information on the topic, so that the reader can gain insight into the aspects related to the world of cosmetics from the viewpoint of Analytical Chemistry. We have divided the book into three parts. PART ONE PART TWO PART THREE GENERAL CONCEPTS INGREDIENTS. SAFETY AND EFFICACY AND LEGISLATION ANALYTICAL METHODS EVALUATION I Efficacy B PART ONE This part (Chapter 1) sets out the definitions and general concepts regarding cosmetic products, current legislation in different countries is discussed as well as specific legisla- tion on ingredients. PART TWO The central body of this book is dedicated to analytical methods for monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products. x Preface The fundamental objective of this part of the book is to put at the reader's disposal sci- entific reviews, carried out by experts in Analytical Chemistry, about existing methods to be found in the bibliography for different types of analytes and/or cosmetic samples, their use, potential, etc. also indicating the sources where one can find the original article, with the idea that the reader him/herself will be the one to choose the method that he/she con- siders most suitable to tackle a specific analytical problem. To begin with, Chapter 2 offers the reader information about the official methods for cosmetic product analysis and how to access the corresponding reference documents, and also gives a global vision of published analytical methods as a whole, which are later dealt in greater depth in subsequent chapters. Later, a detailed revision is given of the published analytical procedures specific to the different analytes and cosmetic samples, including sample preparation, analytical tech- niques to be used, particular methodologies, etc. The first chapters (Chapters 3-5) are devoted to those ingredients to which specific legislation applies in some countries, i.e. UV filters, colouring agents and preservatives. We have dedicated two chapters (Chapters 6 and 7) to other types of ingredients that, like the former, are of great interest in cosmet- ics and are fragrances and surfactants. The last chapter in this part (Chapter 8) is dedicated to other active ingredients used for personal hygiene and face and body care products. In these chapters not only usual ingredients are considered but also forbidden ones and contaminants. At the beginning of all these chapters (Chapters 3-8) either introductions or special sec- tions have been included in which we have tried to give a classification and/or global vision of the types of products in which the corresponding active ingredients are used, to introduce readers to the topic before they go on to read the chemical-analytical part. PART THREE To conclude, in Chapter 9 we have included a small review of the alternative methods by using animals for cosmetic product evaluation that, although they do not refer to chemical analysis of these products, we still consider this to be of interest to our readers. We sincerely hope that this book is useful both for scientists and technologists special- izing in cosmetic research, manufacturing and quality control as well as for students of cosmetic science and related topics and other people too, who are connected with the field of cosmetics (practitioners, consultants, etc.). We are at the entire disposal of our readers, and will be delighted to answer any ques- tions about the topics dealt with here, insofar as we are able, via electronic mail. Alberto Chisvert Sanfa Amparo Salvador Carrefio University of Alicante, Spain University of Valencia, Spain Foreword Everyone is aware of the unstoppable growth in the use of cosmetics worldwide. In recent years, men have come to use them almost as much as women. Cosmetic uses among babies and children have also expanded at an increasing pace and now provide easy solutions for needs which could not even be envisaged only a few years ago. Everybody, of course, is aware of the exorbitant amounts of money handled in the world of cosmetics. Few people other than dedicated scientists are aware of the extremely wide range of general and specific cosmetics currently available for purposes such as (a) facial treatment (lips, eyes and hair included) and body care (hands, nails and feet included), which is pro- vided by creams, emulsions, lotions, gels, oils, lipsticks, face masks and antiwrinkle prod- ucts, among others; (b) personal hygiene products for which include toilet and deodorant soaps, bath and shower preparations, deodorants and antiperspirants, depilatories, shaving creams and gels, after-bath powders, hygienic powders, make-up cleansers, teeth and mouth care products, external intimate hygiene products or hair cleansers; and (c) sun- screens and related products (e.g. sunbathing lotions, products for tanning without sun, skin whiteners). In addition, these products vary in composition according to skin type (normal, oily, dry, mixed or sensitive), age (baby, child, young, adult, elderly) and ethnic group (white, east- ern, black). Also, each cosmetic manufacturer uses their own traditional ingredients, and there is a growing trend of adding vitamins and a wide range of other compounds within nutraceuticals. The wide range of products and the complexity of their composition present a formida- ble challenge to the analytical chemist, as well as to the toxicologist and the formulation scientist. A glance at the very complicated mixture of ingredients listed on the label of a popular sunscreen liquid gives a good indication of how challenging is the analysis of such a product and how important it is to employ officially validated methods. This book pres- ents a thorough description of the analytical methodology applicable to cosmetic products. The scarcity or even absence of officially endorsed analytical methods for the control of cosmetics and their ingredients, however, together with the dispersion and poor documen- tation of available methods, is an important reason for producing a book such as this. Edited by analytical chemists well known for their expertise in cosmetics analysis, the book is extremely timely for cosmetics specialists, and also for non-specialists with some scientific curiosity about this topic. The book includes updated legislation on cosmetics and an assortment of tables that illustrate the state-of-the-art analysis for individual cosmetics, ingredients, surfactants, etc. Particularly important is the inclusion of articles by industrial professionals involved in such analyses. Most of the authors are from France, Italy and Spain, with other from Switzerland, the USA and Argentina. xii Foreword The Editors' engagement with the world of cosmetics is clearly reflected in the large number of references to their own publications- which is now expanded and diversified with the release of this book. This has facilitated careful selection of its contents, which will no doubt bridge existing gaps in this area. Maria Dolores Luque de Castro Alan Townshend University of C6rdoba, Spain University of Hull, UK Acknowledgements While preparing the second edition of the Encyclopaedia of Analytical Chemistry (pub- lished by Elsevier in 2005), its editors Prof. Dr. Paul Worsforld, Prof. Dr. Alan Townshend and Prof. Dr. Colin Poole, placed their trust in our research group and gave us the oppor- tunity to participate by writing the articles "Cosmetics and Toiletries" and "Perfumes". On the basis of this participation, Dr. Gilles Jonker (Publisher of Elsevier), proposed that we should prepare a book dealing with perfume analysis, which we finally decided to extend to encompass analytical methods for cosmetic products in general, with the Editor first assigned to this project being Mr. Derek Coleman (Development Editor), and later the con- tact persons becoming Ms. Joan Anuels (Administrative Editor), Drs. Anita Koch (Manager Editorial Services, Books), Andy Gent (Acquisition Editor), Paul Penman (Production Editor) and the production and editorial team of Macmillan India Limited. We would like to express our most sincere thanks to all of them for placing their trust in us, for their help and their contribution to the satisfaction we now feel on seeing this project finished. We thank the authors from the different universities and international institutions for their participation. They have done a splendid job in all the sections--those with analytical- chemical content, those concerning legislation, alternative methods, etc., and we would like to give them special thanks for their patience in beating with our many revisions and adap- tations of the texts until finally managing to complete the book, with a uniform structure, an up-to-date content and of interest for all our readers. We wish to thank equally the enthusiastic collaboration of the authors belonging to the different companies in the cosmetic sector, who have participated in writing the non- analytical