Lambtime to Run with It

FOOD FANATICS FOOD FOOD PEOPLE MONEY & SENSE PLUS A Good Fry Split Ticket Imported Goods App Assist A menu staple gets How to profit from shared Foreign concepts set up Maximize location-based a makeover, page 5 plates, page 41 shop, page 55 marketing, page 72

ON THE LAMB Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

ON THE SPRING 2017 LAMB TIME TO RUN WITH IT LC_Briks_FoodFanatic2017.pdf 1 1/9/17 10:56 AM

• Lightweight black Japanese denim • 97% cotton, 3% spandex • Longer curved hemline TREND TRACKER • Magnetic apron loop • Double chest pocket • 12 gun metal buttons Stay ahead of the curve, • Mandarin collar • Double-breasted Spring 2017 p. 34 • Left chest pocket FoodFanatics.com • Double-stitched • Darts in back for a contoured fit • MALE XS - 3XL FOOD MONEY & SENSE Eyes on the Fries Why sell winners when your spuds can be champions? PAGE 5

The Way of the Izakaya Chefs fall for the Japanese pub Dear Food Fanatic concept and make it their own Get tips on motivating a seasoned bri ks PAGE 10 waitstaff to upsell PAGE 66

C Beyond the Plate M Size and shape of ice can make Y or break your best cocktail

CM FOOD PEOPLE PAGE 68

MY Time to Split Coming to America

CY Let diners share without losing it Restaurants have plenty to glean PAGE 41 from growing foreign competition CMY PAGE 55 K The Science of Talk Shop Menu Design Is it ever OK to snitch These research-backed methods on a co-worker? lead to better sales PAGE 44 PAGE 63 Don’t Be Sheepish The other red meat is poised to impress a new generation of diners PAGE 16 IN EVERY ISSUE Road Trip! iHelp Kitchen Condimental Trend Tracker Get the lowdown on Asheville’s Be at the ready for Chefs go beyond ketchup, What you need to know now craft beer movement location-based marketing mustard and mayo to deliver PAGE 34 and great eats PAGE 72 full-monty flavors PAGE 52 PAGE 26 Feed the Staff Chef turnover is unpredictable, I’ll Drink to That! but your reaction Must-try methods for being doesn’t need to be part of the “ginaissance” Lost Car Chef Apparel is the antidote for the traditional chef coat. We are injecting style, personality and PAGE 74 identity into the culinary world. As a former chefs with over 35 years of experience, we know we are taught to create eye appealing food. What people are seeing is the art, style, creativity and personality of the chef who made it. We've always asked ourselves why no one has taken that same effort and passion regarding the clothes PR Machine By the Numbers we wear. Lost Car Chef Apparel is the solution to that age old question. Now you can be as stylish as the food you prepare! To see our full line of custom culinary inspired A memorable story can sell Fries add sophisticated seasoning apparel and designs, visit us online or contact your local US Foods sales representative today! Go to FoodFanatics.com for more your food. Here’s how to tell it. and expand their global reach menu inspiration and new ideas. PAGE 60 PAGE 76 www.lostcarchefapparel.com FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 1 View the magazine on the web

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US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD conversation on social President and Chief Executive Officer Pietro Satriano Chief Merchandising Officer Steve Guberman Senior Vice President of Marketing Marshall Warkentin

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CHEF CONTRIBUTORS Jeffrey Bland, Roanoke, VA Rob Komotos, St. Louis John Byrne, Minneapolis Bo Marianowits, Palm Springs, CA 0nly on Matthew Dean, Streator, IL Paul Murphy, San Diego FoodFanatics.com/extras Rob Johnson, Oklahoma City Jeffrey Schlissel, Boca Raton, FL PUBLISHING PARTNER Feedback Publisher We welcome your James Meyers comments. Executive Vice President Please email us at: Doug Kelly [email protected] EVP, Chief Content Officer Write us at: LET’S FRY AWAY Kim Caviness Food Fanatics Magazine Imagination Intrigue diners with pommes soufflees— VP, Content 600 W. Fulton St. Marla Clark Suite 600 potatoes cut thinly that puff up like balloons Content Director Chicago, IL 60661 in hot oil. Chef Thierry Rautureau of Luc in Think your Laura Yee Unless otherwise specified, all correspondence sent to Creative Director Seattle pairs his take on the French dish with recipe is Food Fanatics is assumed Joline Rivera for publication and becomes harissa aioli. the best? Managing Editor the copyright property of US Abigail Covington Foods. Put it Editor Advertising Information BATTER UP Ashley Greene Bernick For rates and a media kit, out there contact Elizabeth Ervin at National Ad Sales Director Izakayas are bringing Japanese pub fare #FoodFanatics (312) 382-7860 or email Elizabeth Ervin [email protected]. front and center. Embrace the trend and Production Director Food Fanatics is the go-to Marissa Wold Uhrina try this recipe for okonomiyaki, a Japanese source for the foodservice pancake, from Chef-owner Curtis Di Fede of Associate Art Director industry and anyone truly Liz Kalkowski passionate about food, food people and improving the Miminashi in Napa, California. Photographer bottom line. Issued quarterly Paul Strabbing and hand-delivered to readers, Contributing Writers the magazine is a US Foods YES, LAMB Kate Bernot publication produced by Peter Gianopulos Imagination, 600 W. Fulton St., Lighten up lamb for spring. Follow Seven Lions Jodi Helmer Suite 600, Chicago, IL 60661 Matt Kirouac (312) 887-1000. Executive Chef Patrick Russ’ lead and serve it Kate Leahy For more information on the roasted on lavash with Mediterranean yogurt Kate Rockwood Food Fanatics program, visit Mike Sula www.FoodFanatics.com and pickled green strawberries. All rights reserved. ©

About US Foods Get US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading SMALL BUT MIGHTY foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 250,000 chefs, recipes restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses Get more insider intel on Asheville, North succeed. With nearly 25,000 employees and more than 60 locations, at US Foods provides its customers with a broad and innovative food Carolina, and taste what’s made this small city FoodFanatics.com offering and a comprehensive suite of e-commerce, technology and a culinary capital. business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, Ill. and generates approximately $23 billion in annual revenue. Discover more at www.usfoods.com. A STORY WORTH TELLING Sharing rich details about menu offerings builds a connection with diners and strengthens the restaurant’s brand. Check out 9300 W. Higgins Rd. five sources of inspiration for menu storytelling. Suite 500 Rosemont, IL 60018 (847) 720-8000 www.usfoods.com

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20628-MCC–FoodFanatics-AdUpdate-SV.indd 1 1/16/17 9:37 AM Executive Chef Franck Loquet sets mashed potatoes on a sheet pan before cutting them THIN IS IN into thick batons that crisp in the fryer and Fries in the second dimension stay pillowy soft inside. Inspiration: A wide ribbon cut on a mandolin Here are three takes on fries and the think- gave Chef-owner Tim Love the standout spud ing behind each. These chefs can attest that a he was seeking for his fast-casual burger champion fry can draw diners in droves. concept Love Shack, which has locations in Fort Worth, Texas, the Dallas Fort Worth Airport and Knoxville, Tennessee. BATTERED IS BETTER “I just started playing around,” he says. “I’d Fries take a buttermilk bath been doing little skinny fries for 20 years, and I wanted something more substantial for Love Inspiration: When owner Bick Brown opened Shack. So I took the same thickness, just wid- Hyde Park Bar & Grill in Austin, Texas, 34 years ened it out and turned it into ribbons.” In addi- ago, he wanted a unique french fry. However tion to sporting a unique look, the fries maintain he also knew battering and flouring the spuds an inner softness and a nice exterior crispiness. could hurt the bottom line. “It’s like a hybrid between a chip and a potato,” “Normally French fries are a low-prep, Love says. low-food cost item,” he says. “I had turned Price: $2.08 and $3.23 them into a high-prep, high-food cost item.” Food cost: 17 percent The solution: an assembly line system capable of filtering the fryer oil three times a day and operable by one cook. Flat Fries “I’ve got a two-well sink that we put a Chef-owner Tim Love bucket of buttermilk in with ice all around, INTO THE OIL Love Shack, Dallas area and I’ve got a cutter right above it, so we’re Whether it’s a neutral-tasting vegetable oil cutting potatoes right into the buttermilk,” he with a high smoke point or an animal fat that 8 russet potatoes, scrubbed and unpeeled says. “Then they go right from the buttermilk adds flavor and grabs diners’ attention, there’s 1 gallon peanut oil Kosher salt, as needed into the breading station.” a frying medium for every type of frites. Price: $4.99 and $7.99 HAMBURGERS ARE Canola oil Slice potatoes on a mandolin using the batonette Food cost: 28 percent 1 blade (or cut into ¼-inch width, /8 -inch thick rib- Smoking point: 468 degrees CUSTOMIZED IN INFINITE bons) into cold water to remove some starch. Drain. WAYS. BUT WHAT ABOUT Flavor: Mild Hyde Park Fries Profile: Low in saturated fat; helps maintain Blanch potatoes in oil preheated to 225 F until Owner Bick Brown THEIR CONSTANT COMPAN- healthy cholesterol levels just tender; drain and cool on a parchment-lined Hyde Park Bar & Grill, Austin, Texas sheet pan. IONS? FRENCH FRIES ARE Refined peanut oil 5 pounds russet potatoes Smoking point: 471 degrees At service, return potatoes to fryer preheated BELOVED BUT THEY TYPI- 1 pint buttermilk Flavor: Rich and nutty to 350 F, stirring to prevent sticking, until golden 2 cups flour CALLY DON’T GET THAT KIND brown and crispy. Season with salt. Salt and freshly ground pepper, as needed Profile: Contains antioxidants OF LOVE. Soybean oil, as needed Maybe they’re taken for granted, or Hyde Park Sauce, recipe follows Duck fat perhaps they’re already winning over customers Smoking point: 375 degrees Flavor: Umami, meaty in their purest form. It’s hard to argue with Cut potatoes into ⅝-inch batons. Soak in cold but- perfectly crispy, right-out-of-the-fryer spuds— termilk for 10 to 15 minutes. Roll in flour generously Fats: Mostly healthy, monounsaturated fats unless it’s about innovation in the French seasoned with salt and coarse ground pepper. fry arts. Lard Par fry potatoes in preheated 300 F oil for 2 To be clear, creativity here isn’t about Smoking point: 360 degrees minutes; drain for 5 minutes. Increase temperature Flavors: silky, meaty smothering fries in gravy and cheese curds— to 350 F and fry until golden brown. Serve with Fats: Lower in saturated fats than butter though there’s nothing wrong with that Hyde Park Sauce. Makes 10 to 12 servings. approach. Both the latest ingenuity and Refined coconut oil enduring methods involve playing with To make Hyde Park Sauce, roughly chop 4 Smoking point: 450 degrees textures, garnishes and unlikely approaches. bunches chopped green onion and 2½ cups jalapenos in a food processor. Blend 4 gallons Flavors: tropical At Al’s Place in San Francisco, for example, mayonnaise with 2 cups mustard powder, ½ cup Fats: High in natural saturated fats that boost Chef Aaron London soaks his fries in a cabbage celery and ½ cup cayenne. Whisk together all “healthy” cholesterol brine for several days to impart a pickled the ingredients until they’re fully incorporated. tang. In Washington, D.C., Blue Duck Tavern’s Refrigerate in an airtight container. Source: Idaho Potato Commission

6 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 7 You’ll find more fries recipes only on FOODFANATICS.COM FAR EAST IS FAR OUT Fries via Japan Inspiration: Andrew Brochu, executive chef at Grant Achatz’s Roister in Chicago, wanted to take an American staple and make it taste—and perform on the plate—unlike anything done before. That determination evolved into one of the restaurant’s most popular items: potatoes cooked three times paired with a Sichuan-soy seasoning, tofu mayo and bonito flakes. Achieving the potatoes’ crispy exterior, which is essential, requires beating them up after poaching. “In the third frying process, they pop and the skin kind of flakes up like a potato skin,” Brochu says. “So you almost have fries, potato skins and mashed potatoes all in one.” Price: $10 Food cost: 16 percent Yukon Fries Executive Chef Andrew Brochu Roister, Chicago

10 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, sliced into wedges Oil, your choice, as needed Sweet soy spice, recipe follows Bonito flakes, as needed Tofu mayonnaise, recipe follows FROM ONE AWARD WINNER TO ANOTHER.

Boil potatoes in lightly salted water until very tender, up to 20 minutes; drain. Potatoes will start to crack and nearly fall apart. Lay them on sheet trays and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours. Chef Seamus Mullen Blanch potatoes in oil preheated to 250 to 275 F for 10 minutes; drain. Slack out on sheet Award-winning restaurateur, cookbook author trays; refrigerate 12 to 24 hours. & three-time James Beard Foundation semi-ﬁ nalist for Best Chef NYC. At service, fry potatoes in oil preheated to 375 F until golden brown and crispy. Season with sweet soy spice, garnish with bonito and serve with tofu mayo.

To make sweet soy spice, combine 100 grams salt, 50 grams soy sauce powder, 40 grams black peppercorns, 40 grams sugar, 30 grams MSG, 30 grams Sichuan peppercorns, 25 grams roasted garlic granules, 25 grams dried shallots, 20 grams smoked paprika and 20 grams togarashi; grind. Makes 1 cup.

To make tofu mayonnaise, combine 350 grams tofu, 45 grams rice wine vinegar, 25 grams mirin, 8 grams salt, 5 grams sugar and 2 grams MSG in a food The crispy exterior of processor and slowly add 100 grams canola oil. Chef Andrew Brochu’s Makes 2 cups. n ® Yukon fries is on full To experience Filippo Berio Culinary Selection Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Olive Oil, and Olive & Vegetable Oil Blends, display in this rendition call 877-376-6250 or visit cargilldso.com to view recipe demonstrations by Chef Mullen. of his signature side. Mike Sula is an award-winning food writer.

8 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 Filippo Berio® and Filippo Berio Culinary Selection® are trademarks of SALOV S.p.A., used under license. ©2017 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved. THE WAY OF THE BOOZE AND BAR FOOD— He worked there for two years, calling it the WHAT COULD BE MORE hardest thing he’s ever had to do, but he came out on the other side a better chef serious PROFITABLE AND ENTICING about his craft. He clocked time in San Diego, THAN PAIRING SMALL at Addison, but was itching to move back to a BITES AND SNACKS city with fine dining prowess. When he and his fiance decided on Chicago, he became the WITH ALCOHOL? Izakaya chef at Momotaro. “I didn’t have any Chefs fall for the Japanese pub concept A drinking destination first and foremost, Japanese experience, so I was hesitant at first,” izakayas are traditionally sake-focused pubs he recalls. But the opportunity to work with IZAKAYA with casual snacks: tempura, bite-sized buns and make it their own Boka Restaurant Group and Executive Chef and a pancakelike dish called okonomiyaki. Mark Hellyar was too good to pass up. BY MATT KIROUAC It’s following the footsteps of Spanish tapas, which had their day of introducing Americans CHEF: Jason Beliveau INSPIRATION: “It’s like cooking profession- to small plates, showing the public that food RESTAURANT: The Izakaya Lounge ally in any other classically trained method; could be small in stature but big in flavor. at Momotaro, Chicago you build this foundation and once you learn Without the stigma of pricey sushi restau- PREVIOUS GIGS: All about how the ‘engine’ works, you find similarities rants, izakayas are tapping into the on- fine dining. and elements that align with what you know as going shift from upscale to casual. Also, unlike your base,” says Beliveau of his happenstance sushi, which requires years of intense training, Currently the chef of the izakaya part of foray into izakaya food. By applying past thus establishing a high entry barrier for bur- Momotaro, this classically trained chef moved experiences and techniques, he establishes geoning chefs, casual Japanese pub fare can to New York City at 18 to train as a chef and newfound inspirations in a cuisine that he be made by a wider cross-section of cooks. learn the art of pizza. He spent time at Insieme initially found intimidating. While izakayas often offer similar food, the under Chef Marco Canora before staging at experience takes different shapes in different Dan Barber’s Blue Hill, where he eventually FAVORITE DISHES: Beliveau is fond of cities, as chefs put their distinct stamp on tra- worked every station at the acclaimed New sharable, large-format dishes like a big plate of ditional Japanese pub food with riffs on every- York restaurant. clams and bread or Berkshire pork tonkatsu. thing from black cod to fried chicken. Borrow Then came his ultimate goal: Per Se. “I He appreciates dishes appropriately sized for a page from these three chefs cooking up their mailed my resume every day for three months, groups, something he takes into account when own take on izakaya culture. and perseverance paid off,” Beliveau says. designing his menu and tailoring dishes for tables. “I want to know how many people are at each table so I can send out what’s appro- priate,” he says, like rounding up to six chicken wings when the table is a five-top, he says. “I IZAKAYA 101 like food that’s not awkward.” Chefs who’ve embraced the izakaya trend agree that it’s a relatively easy and cheap leap to make (and staff). Here’s how to get started: HOW HE OWNS IT: “I love looking at traditional Japanese izakaya dishes and find- 1) Focus on Asian flavors. ing similarities that I’ve seen in the western Dishes that Tracy Chang prepares for Pagu diners include world,” Beliveau says. For example, he might black peppercorns, ginger, dried shiitake and dried shrimp. take an obscure Japanese fruit uncommon on American menus and replace it with locally grown in-season peaches for a riff on an 2) Keep it simple. Highlight the best of Japanese cuisine but remain izakaya staple. “I’ll take this dish, pull the approachable and comfortable for the many guests who inspiration out of it and run with it with what dine on a casual, weekly basis, says Dashi’s Billy Cotter. my pedigree and skill set lend me to.” Exam- ples include deviled eggs with kani king crab, uni chorizo toast, gyoza filled with Berkshire 3) Put your own spin on it. pork and Lake Michigan smoked fish toast with “I think to myself: ‘What can I design that’ll lend itself toward rakkyo, a type of Asian onion. my audience?,’ and ‘What do I want to eat when I’m with The izakaya at my friends in an underground Japanese restaurant?’” says BOOZE SPECIALTY: Japanese whisky, Momotaro in Chicago Jason Beliveau, of The Izakaya Lounge at Momotaro. is a classic rendition beer, sake and shochu, along with American of the real deal. beer and spirits and European wines.

10 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 11 FAVORITE DISHES: Chang likes that izakaya food is finger food, and at some places, Cedar Roasted Black Cod Chef Tracy Chang even eaten while standing. She says communicating with locals has always been important, and she sees food and casual dining, particularly ½ cup sake the izakaya style, as an optimum “icebreaker” ¼ cup mirin opportunity. “Those experiences have led me 1½ tablespoons shiro miso to believe that food is the ultimate launch pad 2 center cut black cod fillets toward greater conversation and collabora- 4 sheets thin cedar grill wraps 1½ tablespoons organic cane sugar tion,” she says, noting the similarities between Flaky Spanish sea salt, as needed izakaya and tapas-style food. Arbequina olive oil, as needed

HOW SHE OWNS IT: Simple ingredients Whisk sake, mirin, shiro miso and sugar together, and techniques, as well as nostalgic flavor heat briefly to incorporate ingredients, cool combinations reminiscent of time and place, and marinate cod 1 hour. Soak cedar grill wraps drive Chang. Some of her go-to techniques in water for 10 minutes. include quick-pickling with different vine- Sandwich black cod between cedar sheets. gars, dehydrating ingredients to make sea- Roast in preheated 400 F oven for 10 to 12 sonings, garnishing with grated ginger and minutes until fillets are cooked through. Remove lightly torching tuna that’s been marinated top cedar sheet. in aged soy. Standouts like uni fried rice with CHEF: Tracy Chang negi and nori, squid ink oyster bao, ikura and Season gently with flaky sea salt and olive oil. ADVERTISEMENT RESTAURANT: Pagu avocado toast, and cedar-pressed black cod At tableside, torch edges of the cedar and then Cambridge, Massachusetts with shiro miso, mirin and sansho pepper are blow out to create cedar aroma, light smoke and glowing embers. Makes 2 servings. PREVIOUS GIGS: Fine dining, among her creations. including Spanish cuisine. PAGE 13 BOOZE SPECIALTY: Cocktails made with Japanese cooking is in Tracy Chang’s blood. local industry experts, housemade vermouth, “I grew up in my grandmother’s Japanese ciders, Japanese and local beers, Japanese restaurant, helping scoop green tea ice cream,” whiskey and coastal Old World wines. Chang says. “I was always surrounded by good food and opinionated aunties and uncles who made their bones in the restaurant industry.” Chang followed suit, working at O Ya, Tim Cushman’s globally renowned under-the- radar temple of Japanese cuisine in Boston, and the acclaimed Martin Berasategui in San Sebastian, Spain. She also studied patisserie at Le Cordon Bleu Paris because she wanted to maximize her culinary education. “Having the discipline, foundation and mentorship of patisserie and fine dining, in addition to the upbringing with my entrepreneurial grandma, has helped prepare me to open my own restau- Find more rant,” she says. Izakaya-inspired recipes INSPIRATION: “I enjoy cooking izakaya only on food not only because I love to eat it, but so do FOODFANATICS.COM most people,” Chang says. “It bodes well with a lot of people, no matter how adventurous or seasoned a diner they may be. It’s like a language that a lot of people can speak, or if Cozy seating at Chicago’s Momotaro elevates the they don’t yet, they can pick it up easily.” communal experience of izakaya dining. 12 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 View the magazine online at FOODFANATICS.COM

Sweet Corn Kakiage Executive Chef Cláudio Cardoso Sushisamba Rio, Miami

1 egg 1 cup seltzer water 1 cup tempura flour 1 tablespoon starch 4 ounces sweet corn kernels Black truffle aioli, recipe follows ½ teaspoon shichimi 1 teaspoon chives, finely chopped Flaky sea salt CHEF: Billy Cotter RESTAURANT: Dashi, Beat egg until frothy and add ¾ Durham, North Carolina to 1 cup cold seltzer. Sift together flour and cornstarch and whisk PREVIOUS GIGS: Classic into egg mixture. Do not over Southern fine dining, Italian whip; refrigerate until service. and Asian cuisine. Combine corn kernels and Cotter has worked in restaurants since he tempura batter. Drop tempura was a teen, washing dishes at his stepmom’s kernels slowly into preheated 375 F fryer. When kernels have restaurant. The Durham native worked with created a structure, push back Chef-owner Ben Barker of Magnolia Grill and into the deeper area of the fryer cooked his way through Atlanta for a few years and continue frying until crispy before returning to his hometown to carve out and lightly golden brown, about an eclectic career. “When I had the opportunity 3 minutes. to work with Asian cuisine at Lantern in Chapel Hill, I immediately took it,” Cotter says. A ingredients that grow in North Carolina,” he Drain and season with salt. Break into evenly shaped discs and few years later, he and his wife Kelli opened a says. The seemingly disparate cuisines share Japanese Fried Chicken arrange on parchment paper. paninoteca called Toast, and in 2014, they commonalities, he adds. Take fried chicken, for Chef Billy Cotter added their Japanese endeavor, Dashi. instance—a standout dish on Cotter’s menu. Using a squeeze bottle, finish For his version, bite-sized pieces of chicken 3 tablespoons soy sauce kakiage with black truffle aioli, INSPIRATION: “The beauty of izakaya are marinated in soy sauce and sake before 2 cloves garlic, grated shichimi and chives. Makes is the seasonal and rotating nature of the getting dredged in potato starch and panko. He ½ tablespoon ginger, grated 2 servings. menu,” says Cotter, who echoes his engrained also serves spicy boiled peanuts with soy sauce 1 tablespoon sake Pinch of black pepper To make black truffle aioli, puree seasonal Southern cooking at Dashi. “There and Fresno chilies, eel-glazed catfish and okra 1 pound boneless chicken thighs 2 cups Japanese mayonnaise, are thousands of creative opportunities since tempura with smoked tomato kewpie. 1 cup panko 1 ounce truffle shavings, 2 cloves we offer a variety of small plates, and I can 1 cup potato starch briefly blanched in milk; present these in a casual, unpretentious atmo- BOOZE SPECIALTY: Specialty Japanese Vegetable oil, as needed 1 tablespoon white truffle oil. sphere,” he says. beers, and an extensive list of sake, shochu and Season with salt and freshly Japanese whisky. n Combine soy, garlic, ginger, sake and black ground black pepper. HOW HE OWNS IT: Izakaya-style pepper and toss with chicken cut into bite-sized pieces. Marinate refrigerated, 30 minutes. cuisine presents a unique opportunity to fuse Given the individual and unique takes on traditional Japanese fare with the food of his izakaya menus, food writer Matt Kirouac Grind panko into a powder and combine with homeland. “I love to take traditional Japanese could eat this Japanese fare all day, every day. potato starch; coat chicken. Fry in 375 F oil until techniques and apply them to the fresh local Follow him on Twitter @Mattsland. golden brown. Makes 2 to 3 servings.

14 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 15 Get this recipe for Roasted Lamb Lavash d o n t b e only on ’ FOODFANATICS.COM SHEEPISH t h e OTHER RED MEAT i s p o i s e d t o IMPRESS a n e w g e n e r a t i o n o f DINERS

Braised lamb served on lavash crackers, topped with yogurt BY KATE LEAHY dressing, feta, spring onion and pickled strawberries is a hit at

PHOTO BY KATHRYN GAMBLE BY KATHRYN PHOTO Seven Lions in Chicago.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17 you add that to any lamb dish, you have an easy LAMB is sporting a new How to Turn Lamb crowd-pleaser,” he explains. Loathers Into Lovers After experimenting with other cuts, he kind of confidence. found that boneless legs of lamb were best Younger diners in particular are digging it. because everything can be consumed. To POSITION IT AS A LUXURY Already gravitating toward global and more prepare the meat for spit-roasting, each leg Elevate lamb’s rep through unique or creative approaches—to which lamb lends is seasoned with salt and pepper. As it cooks more sophisticated preparations, like the itself—they’re also benefiting from the on the rotisserie, juices drip off and baste the lamb tartare appetizer at The Cannibal in protein’s growing presence in fast-casual New York City and Los Angeles. Have a meat. Because the leg is a lean cut, Cervone outlets. The number of menus serving lamb seasonal menu? Even better. Offer lamb marinates the cooked meat in garlic, olive oil, grew 11 percent over the last four years, as an irresistible limited-time offering. lemon juice, oregano and spices. “We have to according to industry research firm add olive oil to give it that moisture,” he says. Datassential. MAKE IT FEEL FAMILIAR At Tava Kitchen, a three-unit fast-casual “People say lamb tastes gamy at times,” says If upscale fare is out of the question, restaurant based in San Francisco, customers Francis Derby, executive chef of The Cannibal, take a page from fast-casuals serving choose the format (burroti, bowl or plate) and a restaurant and butcher shop in New York City lamb in more approachable and afford- then add a protein, such as lamb meatballs. and Los Angeles. “To me, the word gamy means, able formats. “Shanks, shoulder and thigh The menu’s focus on South Asian flavors ‘I don’t like the way that animal tastes.’ But […] are great for kabobs, or you can mince makes lamb a natural fit, says co-founder if you have good product and you know what lamb with some fat to make burgers,” says Hasnain Zaidi. Because diners can see the you’re doing, you can change anyone’s mind.” Maneet Chauhan, executive chef at protein as they order, those wary of lamb can For years, most Americans were divided on Chauhan Ale and Masala House in sample some before committing. lamb, to the extreme: You either loved it or hated Nashville, Tennessee. “One out of 5 [customers] is getting lamb,” it. That’s changing, however, thanks, in part, to a Zaidi says. “Not only are we getting people to heightened focus on quality: Chefs are sourc- BEAT THE GAME try it, but those people are raving about it.” ing better raw material, which often means Cut lamb’s gamy taste by sourcing Pulled lamb shoulder has been on the menu younger meat and less pronounced flavor. younger meat. In addition, season it in the past, but Tava currently serves lamb There’s no better time than now with flavors that balance earthiness and meatballs made from the leg, which offers more freshness. For example, Tava Kitchen, a to change the minds of the holdouts. control over seasoning and fat content. “What fast-casual chain based in San Francisco, Preparations are brighter and more you’re going for is something broadly applica- offers lamb meatballs made with cumin, dynamic in the spring, thanks to spices ble,” Zaidi explains. “You want lamb to taste garlic mint and cilantro. and produce that thrive at this time of year. like lamb, buy you don’t want it to be too gamy. It’s about balancing the freshness.” Neck to Tail: Quality Is Job One Buying top-quality meat can reshape attitudes, Spice Is Nice: Lighten Up Derby says. For a restaurant anchored by a While lamb is often prepared in rich Euro- butcher shop, this means bringing in the whole fat, which he finds adds depth and lets him pean-style braises for winter, warmer weather animal. To do so, he keeps the menu flexible. leverage a byproduct of buying the whole demands brighter preparations. Often this At the Los Angeles location, he offers a rotating animal. To tie the lamb flavor to peas, fava beans, comes from adding spice—and having some collection of cuts, which may include roasted asparagus and ramps paired with the confit fun with it. lamb shoulder, braised belly and neck confit. neck, he dresses the vegetables in a meaty Lamb, spices, crackerlike flatbread and The most popular preparation, however, is vinaigrette enriched with lamb fat and jus. yogurt are a successful combination for raw: the lamb tartare appetizer. Derby minces spring at Seven Lions in Chicago. When a the lamb’s top round and seasons it with A Leg Up: Focus on Flavor wrong delivery from a farmer left Executive lemon oil, chives, salt and lemon juice. Diced Certain restaurants naturally lend themselves Chef Patrick Russ with a goat instead of a green apple and charred leeks add sweetness to selling customers on lamb. lamb, he experimented, coating the goat with and depth, while olive oil and a grating of goat Souvla, a Greek counter-service concept garam masala, braising it, and serving it with cheese impart richness in place of egg yolk. in San Francisco, goes through 16 to 18 legs lavash crackers baked crisp like crostini. “It sells really well,” he says. of lamb at each location every day, says Chef- The goat was a tough sell, but those who got the At Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon, partner Tony Cervone. The restaurant spit- dish loved it. When he changed it to lamb, how- Executive Chef Carlo Lamagna also buys whole roasts lamb, chicken and pork to serve in sal- ever, it took off. lamb for the quality and the creative freedom. ads or sandwiches. The lamb sandwich is the “What do you want to eat when it warms up He especially likes working with the neck. most popular option at all three locations. on the patio?” Russ asks. “You want this.” n Its popularity comes down to flavor, “With the concentration of meat around the Higher-quality cuts bone, it’s one of the more flavorful cuts,” he says. Cervone says. “The staples of Greek cuisine Kate Leahy is an award-winning cookbook are driving greater Lamagna confits the neck in rendered lamb are lemon juice, oregano and olive oil, and if author. Follow her on Twitter @KateLeahy. interest in lamb.

18 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 19 Crispy Lamb Neck with Spring Vegetables, Mint Season lamb neck liberally with salt and pepper; and Lamb Vinaigrette cure overnight. Rinse lamb neck and pat dry. Executive Chef Carlo G. Lamagna Liquefy fat, submerge lamb neck and add garlic, Clyde Common, Portland, Oregon bay leaves and thyme. Cook in preheated 300 to 325 F oven for 1 hour or until meat is fork tender. 1 lamb neck Remove and cool. Salt and pepper, as needed 1 quart rendered duck, lamb or pork fat Combine stock, vinegar, shallot and honey; set 3 garlic cloves aside. Whisk lamb fat into oil and slowly drizzle 2 fresh bay leaves into vinaigrette base to emulsify. Season with salt 1 thyme sprig and pepper. ¼ cup reduced lamb stock ½ cup apple cider vinegar Crisp lamb neck in its own fat or deep fry at 375 F ½ cup shallot, minced until just crispy. 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons rendered lamb fat Saute asparagus and ramps in pan heated with 1 cup blended oil or canola oil turkey neck fat until just cooked and add peas and ½ cup asparagus favas to heat through. Add about 2 tablespoons of ½ cup ramps, chopped vinaigrette to coat and season with salt and pepper. ½ cup peas, shucked and blanched ½ cup fava beans, blanched, shucked, peeled Place vegetables in a shallow bowl, put crisped Creme fraiche, as needed lamb neck on top, and garnish with creme fraiche Mint, as needed for garnish and mint. Makes 2 servings.

Goodn s r Gons Proud supplier of premium quality American Grass Fed Beef, Humanely Raised Veal, and Lamb. Learn more: straussmeats.com

20 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Randy and Tim Strauss Veal Throughout grew up in the meat world, so the Years joining the family business was an expected career choice. Com- pletely unexpected: Their passion > 1937 Brothers Milton, Ed and Ray Strauss start for animal welfare shook up an Strauss Brothers Packing Company. industry and set the standard for sustainable and humanely raised > 1940s to 1950s veal, beef and lamb. Milk-fed veal emerges as a solution to The Strausses successfully lobbied the the scarcity of food in post-war Europe. U.S. Department of Agriculture to establish Powdered milk leftover from the war criteria for pasture-raised veal, essentially shortages in postwar Europe and support- feeds the Holstein bull calves but because it’s unfortified the calves become anemic changing the way calves could be raised. ed sustainability before it was a buzzword and produce whitish meat instead of a The brothers also partnered with farmers by providing a use for the byproduct of the rosy-colored protein. to practice better animal husbandry, a far dairy industry. “No one thought about the The cry from the norm until the mid-2000s. rights of the animal back then—animals “We were brought up in the business, and weren’t even recognized as sentient be- > 1960s Chefs throughout Europe embrace veal we’re very proud of the company that our ings,” Tim says. for its color and neutral flavor, giving grandfather founded and our father grew,” Those benefits translated to the United them a palette for their sauces. Right Randy says. States. “By pairing the then worthless It’s important to understand that the byproducts of the dairy industry—Holstein veal industry started with good intentions, bull calves and liquid whey—our family > 1970s Continental cuisine explodes in the U.S. the brothers say. Veal helped reduce food produced a wholesome product that chefs and turns veal into a staple. The dairy loved and was sought after by consumers,” Way Randy and Tim Strauss (below), co-owners, industry’s other byproduct, whey, now has brothers and best friends, are passionate about Randy says. a use as feed for the bull calves. humane and ethical agriculture. Brothers Milton For the brothers, respecting their father and Ed Strauss (above) pose with one of their and grandfather’s legacy was important, company’s delivery trucks in the late 1930s. > 1980s to but as they grew into the business, they Animal rights group spotlight the veal were impacted by the message of the industry as inhumane. Bull calves are animal rights movement. For Randy and difficult to raise so farmers confine and Tim, it was a personal decision to make tether them for safety reasons. Meat the ethical treatment of animals a part of their company values. They were already > 1989 Values of the embracing a natural and organic lifestyle Brothers Randy and Tim Strauss take over at home and wanted the business to reflect the family business. third-generation those ethics. “By mid-’90s, animal welfare was at the > Early 2000s Strauss family forefront of our thoughts and efforts,” Strauss begins transitioning to all pasture- Randy says. “We wanted to transform the raised or group-raised veal, eliminating drive sustainable company so we could be proud of it and confined pens and tethers. stand behind the business, the way our and humane father and grandfather did.” > 2007 raising practices Strauss becomes the first company DOING THE RIGHT THING to produce USDA-certified pasture- Shifting from the factory farm paradigm raised veal. of raising livestock meant big changes for the brothers, and the farmers who had long > 2017 supplied the family business. Gathering Chefs increasingly return veal to the inspiration from visiting farms around the menu for its delicate flavor, versatility and world, they ultimately developed their own high profit margin.

22 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 23 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

unique “group-raising” system. Working worked with the USDA to define and estab- with independent family farmers, they lish the guidelines for pasture-raised veal. transitioned to 100 percent tether-free, A Cut Above humane raising standards. Today, such LEADING THE WAY animal husbandry remains voluntarily. The Strauss brothers continue to travel the Grass-fed beef from Strauss raises the bar for any restaurant. Whether it’s a fast-casual operation While the brothers transitioned to path of ethically and sustainably raised or a fine-dining concept, there’s a cut with a price point that benefits the bottom line. tether-free, group housing for their animals, and have expanded to include 100 Holstein veal calves, a global shortage of percent grass-fed beef. “The versatility of veal and the delicacy of the meat is stunningly elegant,” says Strauss Corporate Executive whey protein emerged. “Not only did the “Our goal is for our animals to be raised Chef Todd Moore. “It can stretch from classical European cuisine to modern interpretation. cost of our calf feed skyrocket overnight, ethically and humanely,” Randy says. “But It is unlike any other protein I have ever worked with.” If you’re unfamiliar with veal, we were lucky if we could get it at all,” to create meaningful change, consumers it’s time to check it out. Moore offers ideas to get you started. Tim recalls. Unsure of the future, they have to want the products you offer.” began to consider raising veal calves on The brothers were inspired by the envi- THE 411 ON open pastures, eating a natural diet of ronmental and welfare benefits of grass-fed grass and mother’s milk. beef, but frustrated by the lack of quality STRAUSS VEAL DISH: Bone marrow DISH: Veal chop DISH: Offal (sweatbreads, kidney, From this epiphany came the inspira- and consistency. Today’s veal barely resembles what the PREP: Roast PREP: Sear, roast or grill brain, liver) restaurant industry first encountered. tion for the first USDA-approved pas- They sought like-minded farmers who Roast the bones and spread the This cut exemplifies the essence PREP: Saute, fried and pate Humanely raised or finished on open among others ture-raised veal program in the U.S., sim- shared the same philosophy. “We literally marrow on crusty bread with of pasture-raised veal. A simple pasture, veal can be a low-food cost product, parsley and sea salt. Bones also marinade (kosher salt, freshly Best known for its French ply known as Free Raised® veal. Raised had to start at the beginning,” Randy says. giving chefs unlimited and profitable serve as the foundation for ground black pepper, extra virgin applications, veal offal is a true without hormones or antibiotics, Free “This meant going back in time 100 years options—from appetizers to center of the demi-glace and other sauces. olive oil and garlic) and a hot delicacy. With the comeback of Raised calves are sourced from the heri- to how beef was raised before the advent of plate choices. saute pan or grill is all that’s French cuisine, offal provides tage French Limousin breed, renowned confined operations, hormone implants and needed. Cook to medium rare a point of difference. Consider for their leanness and health attributes. unfettered use of antibiotics. WHAT’S CHANGED and allow the meat to rest. pan-fried sweetbreads or calf liver with bacon and aigre-doux. Like most efforts to change institu- The Strausses are confident their en- • Milk-fed: Same liquid whey diet, tionalized methods, the path wasn’t free vironmentally friendly efforts are worth- plus roughage to support good health for of roadblocks. The USDA denied Strauss’ while given the restaurant industry’s group-raised, mother’s milk and grazing for application for pasture-raised veal three growing desire for better products and open-pasture veal. times. The reason? The category didn’t increased supply chain transparency. For • Tethered and confined: Replaced exist. After the third rejection, Strauss over 20 years, they have helped US Foods by tether-free, group housing. chefs serve the highest quality veal and • Antibiotics: Improved calf health has lamb under the Patuxent label. Today, they greatly diminished need for medications; also strive to help chef’s market naturally none for pasture raised. raised meats to consumers, including how • Meat is “white”: Look for a light pink to boost the bottom line. color as a sign of calf health. “We want chefs to discover the ‘new’ veal, apply their creativity and then let their diners taste the difference on the plate and how the veal is raised,” Tim says. Did You Know? Chefs like Adam Siegel are embracing Every kitchen that utilizes DISH: Veal breast the difference. dairy products contributes to PREP: Slow roast or sous vide the existence of veal calves. “We use veal in many different ways,” It could be pork belly’s more Veal is a byproduct of the dairy DISH: Osso Bucco says Siegel, the corporate executive chef for succulent cousin, amazing industry. To give milk, a cow must PREP: Braise, sous vide or when rubbed with fresh herbs, DISH: Veal cutlet Milwaukee-based Bartolotta Restaurants, garlic, golden raisins, fresh have a calf every year. Half of those pressure cook DISH: Classic Italian PREP: Saute or grill which include Lake Park Bistro, the Rum- calves are bulls, which have no use A Milanese specialty that cracked black pepper and sea Meat Blend pus Room and Miss Beverly’s Barbecue. salt. Roast it slow and low for Traditional dishes like veal on a dairy farm. comes from both the fore PREP: Mix equal parts marsala and saltimbocca “In our restaurants, we’ll use veal bones and hind shanks, osso one of the most delicious cuts ground veal, ground beef you’ve never had. put this cut to use. It is also for sauce making, veal chops for grilling or bucco is traditionally and ground pork. Blend great marinated, pounded roasting, cutlets for sauteing, short ribs for The next generation of Strauss family served with risotto and thoroughly and form into and grilled. Season with members (at left) will continue to build on the gremolata. Mix it up and try meatloaf, meatballs, etc. fresh squeezed lemon juice, braising and tenderloin for pan roasting,” the dish with roasted root he says. “The best part about many of the legacy that originated with Ludwig Strauss, extra virgin olive oil, fresh who worked in the Milwaukee stockyards after vegetables and chermoula marjoram and sea salt. cuts is that they are ‘steakier.’ It has great immigrating from Germany in the late 1880s, or salsa verde. texture and more flavor than the old school and his sons, who started Strauss Brothers milk-fed veal. Packing in 1937.

24 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 25 Chefs go beyond ketchup, mustard and mayo to deliver full-monty flavors

BY FOOD FANATICS STAFF

Condiments, such as curry mayonnaise, opposite page, and chile-spiked honey, can set a dish apart.

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 27 through the template of flavors, then try to hit For Timothy Cottini, sweet, salty, sour, umami, bitter. Condiments fill a void, help everything play nice together.” condiments are way more Courses like his PB&J starter that pairs a fire-grilled baguette with ginger-peanut serious than a squeeze sauce, lime-orange jam, chilies, cilantro and red onion pickles highlight the importance of ketchup or a dash of of condiments. Even mains like braised pork belly glazed with mirin, soy and lime served hot sauce. with sticky rice, kimchi, soy-vinaigrette salad and gochujang make the most of what’s “They’re like the straw that stirs a drink,” traditionally considered add-ons. They also says Cottini, chef-partner of Fork and Knife, demonstrate that not all creative condiments two Chicago restaurants. “The right condi- require scratch-made opuses. ment unites flavors.” Jensen’s kitchen buys base condiments like With the definition of condiment broaden- ketchup and mustard in bulk. “They can jump- ing and an evolving global pantry, chefs are go- start a prep,” he says. “Our guests will never see ing deeper, pulling out a shio koji here, a duk- a bottle of ketchup on the table, but it will show kah there and maybe some gochujang, harissa up in something more complex.” paste or Bavarian mustard. So armed, they aim That doesn’t mean diners won’t ask for it. to create a full palate of tastes and sensations “Ketchup on eggs? As a chef, you try to lead for guests. them in the direction you want the food to go,” Jensen says. “But some want to add everything A Balancing Act at the table. ” Of his condiments creations, Cottini is especially proud of Knife’s housemade steak sauce. Rules of the Road “It seems important to have steak sauce at Just one packaged condiment comes into Knife,” he says. “It’s a habit; people reach for it Republic, a farm-to-table restaurant in Detroit: when meat has no baseline flavor. Our steaks French Dijon mustard. Everything else is are full-flavored and properly seasoned, so housemade, says Executive Chef Sarah Welch. the sauce works to create synergy between the “Condiments go a lot farther than typical Avocado Tomatillo Salsa steak and potatoes, or any other side dish.” sauces,” she says. “Pickled and fermented Chef-owner Stephan Pyles Stephan Pyles, chef-owner of Flora Street foods, dry spices, a jolt of vinegar round out Flora Street Cafe, Dallas Cafe in Dallas, agrees condiments are essential dishes.” For instance, duck liver mousse with 2 large avocados, finely diced to balancing dishes. “Our menu uses big, bold fat cap is accompanied by house preserves and 4 medium tomatillos, 2 finely diced flavors made sophisticated, refined, more pickled mustard seeds. 1 tablespoons scallions, finely diced elegant,” he says. “Condiments help complete A framework of fresh and local drives the 1 teaspoons red bell pepper, finely diced the thought.” menu, and condiments are no exception. “We 1 teaspoon green bell pepper, finely diced At Flora Street, powdered mole negro operate best with structure. There are so many 2 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped made from a sauce that’s heavily reduced ingredients out there. We’d get lost if we tried 2 tablespoons cilantro 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice and then dehydrated unifies antelope plated to use them all. Seasonality gives us rules to 3 tablespoons olive oil with a huitlacoche empanada, roasted chan- live by.” Salt, as needed terelles and pickled peaches. “It looks like a Another rule in Welch’s kitchen: The or- sprinkle of paprika,” he says. “Except the chestration of any dish should elicit maximum Combine avocados, diced tomatillos, scallions flavor is completely unexpected.” flavor. “The idea of what condiments are is and bell peppers; set aside. arbitrary, but how we design dishes isn’t,” she Place remaining tomatillos, serranos, garlic, cilan- Adding Up says. “We look to hit all the flavor and textural tro and lime juice in blender and mix until smooth. Condiments can fine-tune flavors in a dish too. notes. A condiment can add acidity, crunch, Drizzle in olive oil. Add to the avocado mixture; “They elevate menu items,” says Mark Jensen, creaminess, balance and a little funkiness. combine gently and season with salt. Let stand at Arugula lemon aioli is chef-owner of Middle Fork Kitchen Bar in Lex- They ensure maximal flavor—that it’s not a least 30 minutes to meld favors; chill. Makes 1½ an easy way to add a ington, Kentucky. “When I create a dish, I walk one-note dish.” n cups. Serve with grilled chicken or chips. sense of spring.

28 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 29 Condiments: What’s Your Definition? The traditional definition of condiments barely THE SAUCEBILITIES scratches the surface. Condiments have moved far beyond tableside ARE ENDLESS. ketchup, salt and pepper.

“As a term, it’s pretty broad-reaching,” says Sarah Welch, executive chef of Republic in Detroit. “You want to say a condiment is a Healthy $1.80 finishing element, but it’s 67% 83% and The amount more specific. I’m pretty tasty delicious of consumers believe of consumers would comfortable saying it is 23 “Flava” are the top three consumers are willing fresh avocados like restaurants to something shelf-stable words consumers to pay to add fresh Barbecue Sauce increase a menu’s add more fresh items or preserved—or at use to describe avocado to their Chef Timothy Cottini overall quality to their menus least not highly perish- Fork, Chicago avocados dishes able.” She gives pickles, crunchy spice blends, 6 cups onions, thinly sliced vinegar-based sauces, ½ cup olive oil tapenade and chutney ¼ cup garlic, minced as examples. 1 ounces thyme sprigs, bundled 2 tablespoons ground coriander Drizzle tangy vocado 1 tablespoons ground fennel For Timothy Cottini, emoulade over tempura- ½ tablespoon crushed red chef-owner of Chicago pepper flakes fried avocado slices and crispy steakhouse Knife, a ½ tablespoon ground cumin popcorn shrimp to transform condiment brightens, ½ teaspoon cayenne the Southern-style po’ boy into adds depth and brings ¼ teaspoon allspice a menu standout. complexity. “It can be 1 cup brandy a spice blend such as 32 ounces Dr Pepper za’atar or dukkah that 10 pounds diced tomatoes Bread-and-butter pickled adds texture, sauce, 6 ounces tomato paste avocados and a splash pickled ingredients, 4 cups light or dark brown sugar of Spicy vocado anch 3 cups molasses honey, tahini, barbecue ressing make this hot fried 2 cups cider vinegar sauce,” he says. “It’s a chicken sandwich oh-so-cool. 10 bay leaves pretty wide field, and it 2½ tablespoons kosher salt keeps expanding; there’s 1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper more to reach for.” Sweat onions in olive oil until soft; add The bottom line? garlic and saute briefly. Add thyme, No other fruit provides menu inspiration spanning all four seasons like “Pretty much anything coriander, fennel, red pepper flakes, that complements and cumin, cayenne and allspice. Add Avocados From Mexico—Available 365/24/7. completes a dish fits my brandy and half of Dr Pepper; heat to idea of a condiment,” a simmer. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, Looking for more avo inspiration? Get all of these recipes and more at says Chef-owner Mark sugar, molasses, vinegar and bay leaves. Simmer 1½ hours. Foodservice.AvocadosFromMexico.com/Sauces. Jensen of Middle Fork Kitchen Bar in Lexington, Remove thyme and bay leaves and Kentucky. “You could add remaining Dr Pepper; puree make it a lot more com- mixture until smooth. Add salt and plicated, but it doesn’t pepper. Taste and adjust tart/sweet have to be.” balance as necessary. Makes 2 gallons.

30 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 Crispy Cured Pork The Sensational Seven Mayonnaise, a mother sauce of Back Ribs with classical cuisine, has a stronghold Alabama White on American taste buds. Thanks to Sauce its many applications as a topping or Chef-owner Jason Alley ingredient, mayo’s the best-selling Comfort, Richmond, Virginia condiment, according to market Ketchup research firm Euromonitor. Here’s how Huitlacoche corn dogs, beer mustard, 3 cups brown sugar it’s playing out on menus along with relish and chorizo ketchup 2 cups kosher salt plus Hog & Rocks, San Francisco 1 tablespoon, divided use the other big sellers. ¼ cup prague powder #1 1¼ tablespoons black peppercorns ¾ tablespoon coriander 2 racks St. Louis cut spare ribs, cut into individual bones 1½ cups Duke’s mayonnaise Soy Sauce 1 cup cider vinegar Mustard ¾ cup sugar Larb tofu with lime, soy sauce, rice Pastrami-cured salmon with 2 large shallots peeled, rough chop powder, chili, cilantro and onion black ale beer mustard, dill pickles 1 clove garlic peeled Night + Market Song, Los Angeles and molasses spread ½ tablespoon black pepper Republic, Detroit 1 teaspoon cayenne Oil for frying

Combine brown sugar, 2 cups salt, prague powder (pink curing salt), Mayonnaise peppercorns and coriander with 5¼ Broccoli crunch with avocado oil mayo, quarts water and bring to a boil; cool. sugar-free bacon, red onion, currants and Brine ribs 12 hours, remove and dry 12 hours. Smoke in preheated hot honey-cayenne chicken smoker until just tender. Picnik, Austin, Texas

Meanwhile, blend together remaining ingredients except frying oil to make a sauce.

At service, deep fry bones in oil preheated to 350 F for about 3 minutes. Hot Sauce Barbecue Sauce Drain and serve with sauce. Marin mussels with chorizo, Seared pork belly with chicharron, cannellini tomato-habanero hot sauce and bean and olive-oil puree, fig-balsamic, Costeaux Bakery crostini bourbon barrel-aged maple barbecue sauce Mateo’s Cocina Latina, Healdsburg, Mise en Place, Tampa, Florida California

Steak Sauce Grilled New York bison strip steak with warmed sour cream and spring onion sweet potato salad, grilled corn and blueberry bourbon steak sauce Alligator Soul, Savannah, Georgia

32 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 33 The heat index on what’s happening

Dear Gin, Yes, it’s sad vodka muscled Farm-to-table TRASH into your martini territory, Restaurant but you’re back with all your as a herbaceous deliciousness, names get COOKING and the whole drinking point of world is game. smart. WON’T Toast is, well, toast. LAST SEEN: Everywhere, Keep the avocado-topped difference. Clever restaurant names that Just dukkah. but standout cocktails versions and the can’t-live- Ingredients from a nearby farm are a reinforce their spot’s brand It’s not just for Egyptian restaurants; this savory mix of nuts, SWEEP THE include God Save the Ice is nice without slices that pop out given; talking about it makes you look deserve props. Dallas has it going dried herbs and spices can cross borders. Chefs are sprin- Queen at Gordon Ramsay’s Whether it’s the right- of a toaster, but deep six dated. Now it’s whatever qualifies as on in spades with Knuckle Sand- kling it on bread, vegetables, grilled meats and anything Pub & Grill in Las Vegas. sized crush, small the wood-fired artisanal the highest-quality ingredients. wich, Cattleack and On the Lamb. else that benefits from seasoning. NATION, With gin, elderflower liqueur, cubes, big cubes, breads served with a daub And seriously, who doesn’t love but reducing kitchen waste bitters and Dubonnet, square cubes, a great of butter and jam and prices TRY THIS INSTEAD: Train servers the name of the Arkansas-based LAST SEEN: Union in Pasadena, California, adds it to should be on everyone’s mind. it’s making people bow to big orb or a super-chill jacked up to the moon. to share the backstory of fast-casual chain Slim Chickens? a housemade goat ricotta crostone served with honey the monarchy. cylinder, matching the your stellar ingredients. dates, pine nuts and chive blossoms, while Oleana in ice to the drink needs TRY THIS INSTEAD: Stop Boston finishes a dish of scallops, golden tomatoes to happen every- charging nine bucks for a and couscous with the heady blend. where. Like, right now. hunk of burnt bread.

Fine dining, reincarnated Sacre bleu! Small is big, from one- bite courses to 30-seat, French restaurants are back intimate dining rooms but they’re not your maman’s with open kitchens that bistros. Charming insouciance, Fermented embrace diners. Not small? Cheer or fear? classical preps and joie de vivre Price, typically starting at Chants of “USA! USA!” are are all there but so are heard loud and clear as foods may more than $100. No matter unexpected ingredients, cross- how the dining landscape diners welcome foreign cultural exchanges and a whole changes, customers will concepts with open arms be good for new layer of excitement. always demand value. from France to the Philip- Go escargot, go! pines. Is this a good thing the gut, for your business? but it’s their flavor, nuance and LAST SEEN: So what if L.A.’s Game over, kale. You’re no longer cool See page 49 complexity that keeps them bubbling Taix uses dry-cured chorizo when you’re on the menu at Chick-fil-A. up as go-to ingredients. Kimchi instead of ham in the quiche— END peaked, but the ages-old process it’s dreamy and so is its veal TRY THIS INSTEAD: Sauteed bitter is pumping up all sorts of blanquette. Chicken liver market greens spiked with chilies and DECONSTRUCTION. unexpected ingredients. mousse and beef tartare served garlic work like a dream at Chicago’s Stop taking everything apart and Bitters? at NOLA’s Bar Frances will Anteprima. Jean George Vongerichten’s huddling a dish’s ingredients in Sweet! Long called digestifs, they have you wondering why the LAST SEEN: Benu in San Francisco The Inn at Pound Ridge in New York their own separate piles. sounded like a sad punishment. Now heat was ever turned down on ferments peppercorns, while advances designer greens with a salad Find the menued as amaro, these balanced of sucrine lettuce supported by French. And Keith McNally’s flame to see Momofuku Nishi in New York City TRY THIS INSTEAD: Ingredients belong bitter liqueurs can go solo or hold Augustine in the Big Apple’s what’s hot. shows the love with hozon, and arugula, avocado and spicy corn together—really, they do. Plate them their own as an ingredient; tame with Beekman hotel is every Franco- David Chang’s fermented ceci beans vinaigrette, proving that life after as a happy family, just as they prosecco and they purr like a kitten. foodphile’s dream joint. #TrendTracker make a magical cacio e pepe pasta. raw kale truly is worth living. were meant to be.

34 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 35 USF ADVERTISEMENT USF ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 36 PAGE 37 USF ADVERTISEMENT USF ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 38 PAGE 39 PREMIUM QUALITY SIGNATURE TASTE EXCEPTIONAL PERFORMANCE FOOD PEOPLE 29VARIETIES ONE-AND-ONLY LET DINERS SHARE WITHOUT LOSING IT APPEAL BY KATE ROCKWOOD

From beef to Angus to turkey, get it all with TNT™ burgers. Whether you’re serving TNT™ premium beef patties, Certifi ed Angus Beef® or tender turkey selections, you’ll soon discover that only the TNT™ brand is worthy of a burger lover’s passion. Choose the grinds, sizes and shapes that fi t your menu and see why nothing satisfi es guests like the taste of TNT™ burgers.

Visit TNTburgers.com or call your local Cargill Foodservice How do you cater North America Sales Representative at 800-373-6515. to sharers? Tell us

PHOTOGRAPHY SEAN MCGILL PHOTOGRAPHY @FoodFanatics.

200-210 AD Food Fanatics v105.indd 2 4/1/16 9:10 AM Menu items must be ample enough to share to prevent Peter Napathalung, senior manager of market portion disappointment. insights for industry research firm Technomic. If It’s Sharable, They Will Come Other operators are simply ceding the Sharing plates allows diners to experience more of your menu. So before you give challenge altogether. “I will give diners extra the stink eye to parties keen on splitting their fare, consider these statistics. plates and let them share, but I won’t split it,” says Greg Baker, chef at The Refinery, in Tampa, Florida. “Labor is my biggest cost, and when we split a dish, it gets more labor-intensive,” he says. As the protein gets smaller, it might require more attention during cooking. Ditto plating a petite portion and asking servers to carry twice as many plates for the same amount of money. “I’m basically splitting my margin in half,” 61% 40% Baker says. Percentage of menus that Consumers who want He’s trained waitstaff to encourage diners include the word “share.” more starters, small plates to do the work. Servers bring extra plates and and diminutive portions utensils to the table but stand firm that the on menus. kitchen doesn’t accommodate splitting.

Make Sides Share-worthy Splitting appetizers is typically encouraged and expected. Restaurants that haven’t beefed up their side items may be missing out. At Basilisk, a la carte sides allow diners to mix and match their sandwich and side, but it also The frequency in which full service restaurants featuresmall plates, PHOTOGRAPHY KATHRYN GAMBLE KATHRYN PHOTOGRAPHY encourages tables to order Myers’ fries, salads an indication that operators can offer more for share-happy diners. 1 in 5 and cornbread to share. Noroeste in Seattle, it should be a nonissue. as tortillas and salsa, to make sharing easier and SHARING MAY BE CARING, Playing to that communal mentality can pay “When people go out for a meal, they want the final product more delicious. “The extra de- BUT SPLITTING PLATES off. The $7 Dan Dan fries, served with peanut their friends to taste what they’re tasting,” she tails go a long way in making the diner feel spe- sauce, chili oil and lime, are only $1 less than CAN BE A GIANT HEADACHE says. “They want to talk about it, and they want cial and more willing to come back,” she says. the signature chicken sandwich. Ordering to remember it together. It’s our job to give Sharing is one of the main draws for guests at Opportuntiies to increase check averages: WHEN DINERS HACK APART both may give a solo diner pause but won’t them that.” The Hairy Lobster in Portland, Oregon, but that A DISH SO EVERYONE CAN have the same effect on a crowd. For some, the solution to overcoming the doesn’t mean all dishes are the same size. “Our Solution: Create side dishes that span hassle of splitting dishes is simple. plates are meant to be shared between two or HAVE A TASTE. all types of eating preferences; they tend “We try to design dishes that can accommo- three people, while the platters are more sub- Just ask Chef Jason Myers about the once to become natural choices for diners who are date the urge to share, without having to make stantial and meant to be shared between four popular Fancy Burger—a hand-formed beef eager to share. At Village Whiskey in Philadel- significant accommodations in the kitchen,” and six people,” says co-owner Mellisa Root. 53% 39% 30% patty cooked in duck fat, topped with Gruyere phia, the menu features not just deviled eggs, Diners who order sides Diners who order Diners who order says Myers, who opened Basilisk, his latest Acquainting new diners with the menu— and white truffle mayo that he served at his first tater tots and fries for sharing but also a robust appetizers small plates restaurant in Portland, Oregon, earlier this year. and making sure expectations are in line with restaurant in Portland, Oregon. lineup of housemade pickles. Gluten-free, Its signature fried chicken sandwich is served what arrives at the table—takes more server “People wanted it cut into five pieces, but paleo, dairy-free and distinctive, the pickles with a steak knife stabbed in the middle, so time than a standard format. However that the structural integrity would fall apart if it range from truffled cauliflower to watermelon diners can cut it however they want. upfront communication, like explaining why was cut in more than half,” he says. For chefs, and fennel, and are served family style, with a the pork shank with barley and cornbread sharing can compromise the flavors of the dish breadboard and whipped ricotta. Prevent Portion Disappointment is twice the size of the barbecue duck with and mess with food costs. It can also disrupt “When people go out, they want to share. A diner may think splitting a piece of quiche with cucumber salad, can prevent an upset later. the flow of the line, complicating plating and That’s a big part of the experience,” says the table is a good idea—until the sad one-eighth increasing the number of plates in the pass. Andreas Muller, executive chef of Revival, a slice appears. Then the disappointing portion Tell Diners to DIY Yet ignoring split plate requests or copping an family-style restaurant in Decatur, Georgia. could become the restaurant’s problem, when a Some split plates just look terrible—especially attitude can mean missing out on revenue from “We want to fill tables with all the different diner who leaves hungry vows to never return. a rib-eye that’s been robbed of its time to rest, 47% 56% diners set on sampling their hearts out. things the diner wants to try, have them put Consumers who say happy Solution: Train servers to talk to share- chefs say. Thanks to the ubiquity of social Chefs who consider Here’s how to feed customers’ need to share— whatever looks good on their plate and then hour deals would encourage small plates a hot trend. happy diners about how hungry they media, more chefs are seeing those sad-looking while still turning tables and keeping food costs box up the leftovers for lunch the next day.” n them to order appetizers in check. are, and to steer them toward enough split plates haunt their online presence. more frequently. food. Martincic employs this practice at Bar Solution: Consider adding a split fee. A writer for a variety of food and business Nororeste. For dishes that are harder to split, Many restaurants do this “so they can round Give to Get publications, Kate Rockwood is always down For Shannon Martincic, executive chef at Bar like tacos, she’ll add extra low-cost items, such out the presentation with more food,” says with sharing. SOURCES: TECHNOMIC, NATIONAL RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION

42 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 43 CUT THE HEARSAY—FAST Suzanne Crouch, executive chef at Ella’s Americana Folk Art Cafe in Tampa, Florida Backstory: Forgoing the culinary school route and earning her chops in restaurant kitchens, Crouch opened Ella’s Americana Folk Art Cafe with friends in Tampa’s growing Seminole Heights neighborhood in 2009.

“I never want to jump to conclusions or only get one side of the story. I take into consideration what the person making the claim is saying, and then I observe the situation myself. If I agree, I critique the situation and offer the person insight into how to do the job better, but not in front of everyone. From experience, I’ve learned to pull people aside and do it privately. People do not like to be talked about, and in most people’s minds, they’re the best. I’ve had people freak out and turn it into a lot more drama than it needs to be because they don’t agree. I like to say, ‘What I’m observing is you’re not do- Q: ing this fast enough,’ or ‘I’ve been watching and noticed these two things. Let’s go down there and do it together, and let me show you how you can improve on that,’ instead of creating ‘He said, she said’ chaos. Otherwise it becomes, ‘I don’t like this person because he said so and so to Boss Lady,’ and then I have a whole other situation to manage on a daily basis. IS IT EVER Do your own investigation and take it one-on-one without naming names. Pettiness will push you over the edge, but if you remain calm and create a very calm, but structured atmosphere, you’ll be surprised that people will work in that flow naturally. Those who don’t will stick out like a sore thumb, and you just eliminate them. OK RESTAURATEURS AGREE TALK IT OUT The energy that you put into your kitchen is what you’ll together and just let them talk openly, THAT EMPLOYEES WHO Craig Hamilton, executive chef for get back. If you create a stressful, very tense environment, one at a time, about what is bothering The Village at Penn State in State if you snap at your employees, if you are not a strong leader, WITNESS HARASSMENT, them. A lot of good can come out about College, Pennsylvania if you’re doing things against your own set rules, it’s obvious why people are upset or how they feel THEFT OR EVEN VIOLENCE that’s what everybody is going to do. Leading by example is Backstory: After culinary school, Hamilton about one another. Sit back, listen and always the best way.” TO SNITCH NEED TO REACH OUT TO worked in fine dining and campus catering then voice your opinion on the matter. MANAGEMENT. BUT FOR and dining before finding a home in Let things settle down for a day or two LESS SERIOUS SITUATIONS, continuing care retirement communities. and then bring them back in and openly He’s going on year 14 with The Village at talk more. Most of the time, only posi- HOW DO OPERATORS Penn State. tive has come out of this, and for this DRAW THE LINE BETWEEN particular situation, both employees ON A “You need to be upfront and honest with figured out who was at fault and why REPORTING A CO-WORKER all employees. Address the issue, learn it happened, and both moved on from FOR THE GOOD OF THE from it, move on and then continue the incident and now work side by side BUSINESS AND FLAT OUT to build on the relationship each day. each day. Once a co-worker put a negative Creating a fun, happy and energetic SNITCHING? comment about another co-worker on work environment with all employees In an industry where staff work in close social media and she found out about CO-WORKER?BY ASHLEY GREENE BERNICK being treated as equals can eliminate quarters and rely on each other, blame is easy it. She reported it to us, and we had to most employees wanting to tattle on to throw around and conflict can spread fast. address the situation with both em- each other and want to address issues Four chefs weigh in on how to cut petty ployees. I think the best way to han- themselves. Keep things positive and tattling without jeopardizing the peace— dle any negative situation between remember why they are here—and that or the business. co-workers is to bring them in a room is for the customers.”

44 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 45 Chef Chrissy Sanderson ZERO TOLERANCE FOR Owner & Executive Chef Mockingbird Kitchen viduals together and talk it out. IMMATURITY Everyone reacts differently to differ- Ryan Mazoff, corporate chef at ent situations. Some people take it in Marzoni’s Brick Oven & Brewing Company, stride and are fine; some people are cry- which has four locations in Pennsylvania. ing in the corner. But if you really need the money, really need the job or really Backstory: After attending the Pennsyl- enjoy what you’re doing, you’ll work it vania Culinary School in Pittsburgh, Mazoff out. Generally the bad eggs work them- joined Hoss’s Steak & Sea House in Altoona, selves out. Pennsylvania, and then its sister company, We have had instances where it’s been Marzoni’s, in 2003. As the corporate chef, more severe, where it’s detrimental to he currently oversees five locations, with the business or another person. Let’s plans for expansion. say someone is spitting in food, which is obviously termination on the spot. If “Staff reporting each other to manage- another staff member knows about it ment happens on a much more regular and is not reporting it to management, basis than most people realize. The se- they’re almost just as responsible. verity of it is what differs one instance We had a line cook come in after tak- from another. ing so many prescription pills that he The petty ones are often about some- was sleeping in front of the fire. His body not performing or somebody co-workers felt the need to address it else’s expectations. It can be anything with management, and we encourage from not bussing a table to the dish- that. We sent the employee home washer isn’t moving fast enough, or immediately and eventually termi- maybe the prep person didn’t prep nated him. When someone comes enough. If somebody comes to us with to us with a severe claim like that, we It’s never just someone’s order that’s on the line. one of these petty claims, we first ask address it with the individual the PRACTICE WHAT YOU PREACH them if they’ve addressed the issue di- claim involves, and we document ev- It’s not just food or a meal. rectly with the individual. Most of the erything. We go through our HR de- Dahlia Narvaez, executive pastry chef at Mozza Restaurant Group It’s everything you put into making your place sing. in Los Angeles, which includes Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza. time, it’s a ‘No.’ They want somebody partment—whether it’s factual or else to resolve issues for them, either not—to cover ourselves, cover the It’s jobs. It’s spreadsheets. And it’s your reputation that’s on the line every time an order comes flying through your kitchen. Backstory: This three-time nominee for the James Beard Foun- out of laziness or fear of confrontation. business, cover the individual and At that point, we try to get those indi- cover the manager.” n dation’s Best Pastry Chef Award served as the executive pastry That’s why we put together the Tyson Restaurant Team. We stacked our team with chef at Los Angeles’ now-closed Campanile before forming and kitchen pros who love the heat and will take a stand for you. heading the pastry department at Mozza Group restaurants. From inventory to insights. From forms to freezers. “Mozza has a no-tolerance policy when it comes to harass- From field to flame. ment. I have had to counsel employees on issues such as sexual and verbal harassment. We work closely with our HR Talk to us about the hot topics burning in your kitchen and your mind. department at the home office in New York. We’ll help you find new ways to keep your cool. For other situations, I do my best to promote open commu- We’re listening. And we want to know, nication. I am a huge fan of sitting down and talking out all gripes on the spot—no festering. We have an open-door policy What’s on the line?™ that is practiced companywide. I sit down the employees involved, and we talk. Everyone gets a chance to speak his or her mind; I mediate. It starts at the top; practice good communication, and treat everyone with mutual respect. It could start small, like stop- ping by a team member and asking, ‘How’s your day going?’ or just saying, ‘Good morning.’ You have to be approachable and your team members need to know that you are open to just talking and that you care. Talk about anything—politics, movies, their weekend or a restaurant experience.” Learn more: tysonfoodservice.com/restaurant

FOOD FANATICS SINGLE_MBK.indd 1 10/10/16 5:07 PM LOSING A CHEF HAS A FAR losing two big-name chefs in less than a year. Since turnover is inevitable, it’s essential to BIGGER IMPACT ON THE know how to handle it. HANDOFF KITCHEN THAN A DEPART- “You can’t let changes at the back of the ED DISHWASHER OR LINE house—even major changes like losing a chef— affect staff morale or the guest experience,” WITH CARE COOK CONSIDERING THAT says Jason Raducha, owner of Noble Eatery COUNTLESS RESTAURANTS in Phoenix. CLOSE AFTER A HIGH-PRO- And turnover in the restaurant industry is CURB TURNOVER high—and climbing higher. The Bureau of Labor FILE CHEF WALKS. Statistics reported a whopping 72.1 percent CHAOS IN In 2011, Avenues, the two-Michelin-star turnover in 2015, up from 66.7 percent in 2014; restaurant at The Peninsula Hotel in Chicago, it was the fifth consecutive year that the turn- THE KITCHEN shuttered after its executive chef left to open over rate in the food service industry increased. his own concept. St. Charles Exchange in When Raducha faced turnover at his own Louisville, Kentucky, called it quits after restaurant after the departure of his execu- its chef resigned amid accusations that the tive chef in August, he knew it would be BY JODI HELMER restaurant failed to pay its vendors. The Durham stressful, but he also knew it was important to ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN TODD House in Houston closed in June 2016 after stay focused.

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 49 Salvaging a Sour Relationship PACKAGED GOODS. Tension in the kitchen? Follow these six tips to repair a chef-owner relationship IT’S ALWAYS DISRUPTIVE that’s on the skids—and know how to WHEN A CHEF LEAVES. let go when it’s time. YOU CAN MINIMIZE THE 1. Talk It Out PACKAGED WELL. Set aside time for a heart-to-heart. DISRUPTION IF YOU HAVE Instead of hashing things out in a corner of the kitchen, seek a quiet A GOOD NO. 2 WHO CAN Smooth Front Panel place to talk through the issues and for Labeling Stacking see if resolution is possible. STEP IN AND TAKE OVER. — David Kincheloe of National Restaurant Consultants. Stabilizers 2. Continue Checking In A single conversation is unlikely to solve the problem. A fractured relationship takes time. Set new expectations and demonstrate ways “We were down a set of hands, so the to improve. promoting from within may not be possible. immediate question was, ‘How are we going to “When a chef leaves, it puts the restaurant make sure there are no hiccups in our service?’” 3. Keep Tempers in Check into a challenging position,” Kleiner says. Raducha says. Oversized egos are everywhere in the “Everyone has to pick up more work to keep kitchen. Don’t fan the flames by yelling the team going.” Lesson Learned: Promote from Within. and humiliating a staffer. Remember, being disrespectful is never justifiable. When the executive chef left The Asbury in Lesson Learned: Over-communicate. Charlotte, North Carolina, last spring, Chef de 4. Take Responsibility Raducha credits communication for keep- Cuisine Matthew Krenz was promoted to the Acknowledging your role in the ing the line functioning after the departure of top spot. conflict is the first step in repairing Claudio Urciuoli, his executive chef. Raducha “Because I was already part of the team, it was the relationship. The tension between and Urciuoli even approached kitchen staff business as usual,” Krenz says. “It wasn’t as big leadership makes it harder for the together to share the news and reassure them of an adjustment for the staff as it would have entire team, and playing the blame that there were no hard feelings. been if someone had been hired from outside.” game doesn’t solve anything. Hitting “I kept staff in the loop about what was going Product It’s always disruptive when a chef leaves, says reset and moving forward can make on to make sure they were comfortable during Clarity David Kincheloe, president of Colorado-based a difference. the transition,” he says. National Restaurant Consultants. But having Keeping the lines of communication open a good staff in place can calm the chaos. “You 5. Know When to Let Go can also make it easier for an incoming chef. can minimize the disruption if you have a good The chef-owner relationship is like At Club Lucky, Kleiner spends time talking No. 2 who can step in and take over,” he adds. a marriage: Separating is sometimes to the potential new hires about their person- Club Lucky in Chicago has lost three chefs the best option. If you’re not happy alities as well as their culinary skills. Audible Click in the last six years. At one point, the restau- spending 80 hours a week with “We try to gauge, to the best of our abilities, Closure rant spent five months without a chef, which someone, the relationship may not be how a new chef will fit in with our team,” he Executive General Manager Thomas Kleiner worth salvaging. explains. “We want a chef who understands admits was challenging. that we rise to success and reap the rewards “Fortunately, we have a great foundation of 6. Offer Incentives together, who has an understanding that we Perfect packaging. It’s what you can If losing a chef would derail the other employees—including a sous chef who are successful because we have great food and ® restaurant, offering him or her a expect from Monogram . Customers will has been with us for 17 years—who keep things a great team.” n financial incentive to stay until a appreciate how our packages store foods running,” Kleiner says. “The stress is not as SmartLock replacement is found may help keep Closure System safely, keeping the heat or keeping it cool. high when we’re in a transition period because the kitchen steady. Communicate this we have a great team.” to the chef, and set expectations as Jodi Helmer is a writer whose work has But transitions don’t always go according well as an end date. appeared in numerous business publications, to plan; chefs leave on bad terms before their from Forbes to Fast Company. Follow her on replacements can be named or trained, and Twitter @HelmerJodi.

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Job Number: 2014071803 Design Manager: ED PETRUCZENKO Released: XX/XX/14 FF Monogram Print Ad Copy Writer: N/A Printed: YES Last Modified:07.24 Designer: JIM DIMITRIOU PDF: NO Modified by: JIM DIMITRIOU Proofreader: JULIA GRANEY FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP! Get a mouthful from our resident expert

THE HIGHLIGHTS Get more Asheville Smoky Park Supper Club recommendations Asheville’s most-talked- only on about restaurant is FoodFanatics.com/extras a shipping container parked on the banks of the French Broad River. Smoky Park Supper Club offers indigenous Asheville—local, unfussy, seasonal dishes— served in a surreal setting. Take a page out of SPSC’s book: Get creative with your surroundings, and let the outside in. Tupelo Honey Cafe This joint started as a humble cafe specializing in Southern dishes. In 16 years, the restaurant has expanded to 13 locations throughout the South—including a foray into college campus dining—and an upcoming opening in Denver. As one of Asheville’s most celebrated success stories, the little cafe that could has stayed true to its crafty, WHY NOT OFFER BREAKFAST ALL DAY, EVERY WAY? homespun dishes. Breakfast sandwiches and breakfast items topped the Rhubarb 1 When Chef John Fleer left his post at the restaurant industry’s list of growing foods. prestigious Blackberry Farm in Knoxville, Tennessee, heads turned. But the daring Get in on the breakfast trend with Gold Medal® and move paid off in spades. Even though he and former pastry chef Cynthia Wong are recent Pillsbury.™ You’ll discover unlimited versatility, endless James Beard semifinalists, it is Rhubarb’s variety and delicious all-day breakfast menu ideas. AshevilleAHH, ASHEVILLE. PROUD and New York City. They’ve come in search of lack of pretense that endears this culinary powerhouse to locals. CAPITAL OF AMERICA’S a fresh start in an open-minded city where the only limit to creativity is what’s in season. Visit generalmillscf.com and become inspired. REVITALIZED CRAFT BEER Asheville’s a town full of artisans, foragers The Admiral and culinary purveyors—people whose liveli- At quick glance, the Admiral looks like a dive 1 NPD Group, June 2016 MOVEMENT AND HOME TO bar. The young chefs and owners rolled the hood depends on the region they inhabit. Each A SLEW OF NEW, MUST-TRY dice when they opened in Asheville’s working- dish, no matter whether it’s Indian, French or class west side, but hearty meals at humble RESTAURANTS IN AN Southern to its core, is affected by local prod- prices made the spot impossible to ignore. ALREADY BURGEONING ucts and people who helped bring it to the table. That’s how the Appalachian influence ends DINING SCENE. up in every bite, including barbecue. By check- Some of the talent is homegrown, but the rest ing out as many barbecue joints as possible, FOOD FANATIC are chefs trading in their big city ways for a you’ll get a sense of true Carolina ‘cue in case Denny Trantham is a bucolic lifestyle in the foothills of Western you want to duplicate it back home. Food Fanatics chef for US North Carolina. Indeed, it’s a battle of the old versus the new Foods based in Fort Mill, Despite its size, Asheville has been batting in barbecue. The historical 12 Bones Smoke- South Carolina, with a soft Scan for Breakfast in the big leagues for years, since Chef Jacob house, which counts former President Barack spot for rich southern, Menu Ideas Sessoms nabbed a James Beard award nom- Obama among its loyal patrons, is a lesson culinary traditions.

ination in 2010 while serving as head chef of in consistency, while the Buxton Hall BBQ, BY TIM MARRS ILLUSTRATION Table—a perennial favorite. which nabbed multiple “Best New Restau- Follow him Now the transplants are hitting critical rant” awards in 2016, proves innovation has a on Twitter mass, ditching cities like Atlanta, Los Angeles place in this once sleepy town. n @denny_trantham

FILE NAME: US Foods Food Fanatics Mag Ad_9x10.5_p1 JOB #: GM 1616 DATE: 8-29-16 COLOR: 4 Process CONTACT: Denny 322 GROVELAND AVE • MINNEAPOLIS MN 55403 • 612-870-3753 Nando’s PERI-PERI brings South African MONEY dining customs and art to locations throughout & SENSE the U.S.

Coming to America

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For more information about Monogram® products, please visit www.usfoods.com or contact your local US Foods representative. © 2016 US Foods, Inc. All rights reserved. FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 55 Nando’s chicken is marinatred in PERi-PERi sauce for 24 hours before hitting the grill.

Locations: More than 200 stores knead, cut and form each bun. mainly in Hangzhou and Shanghai, Each bao is stuffed with a classic China; two locations in the United filling, such as curry beef with States: Cambridge, Massachusetts, carrots, pork with scallions and and Providence, Rhode Island. chicken in a bean sauce, and steamed in bamboo-based bas- Lesson Learned: Showcase kets, hand-woven by villagers in a your authenticity. remote town in Northern China.

The Story: When the China- The physical layouts of its U.S. based Tom’s BaoBao chain stores are encased in glass so opened its first U.S. outpost in that customers can see the Cambridge, in July 2016, it aimed steamers in action, examine the to introduce American consumers intricate baskets and, most to the same food and flavors they importantly, watch the balletlike would encounter in Asia. movements required to create each bun. The transparency of Global influences perme- Because the menu at Tom’s Bao- the chain’s operations has proved ate Nando’s PERi-PERi locations like this one in Bao is comprised exclusively of fascinating for children Washington, D.C. bao buns—1,200-year-old but also appeals to college leavened-dough dumplings— students and urbanites who its new U.S.-based chefs trained gravitate toward brands that for three months, many in China, showcase authenticity and learning how to properly mix, artisanal craftsmanship. AMERICAN RESTAURATEURS BIG AND SMALL CAN BE SURE OF AT LEAST ONE REALITY: IN THE COMING YEARS, SOME OF THEIR FIERCEST COMPETITORS WILL Locations: Headquartered in The chain has gone against the BE INTERNATIONAL CHAINS BREAKING Seoul, South Korea, with more than grain by prioritizing flavors above How to Make a Solid First Impression INTO THE U.S. MARKET. 3,700 outposts worldwide. U.S. all else, says Larry Sidoti, chief ❱ Raise the Bar: Whiskey, tiki and even cider bars have made a The industry has seen an uptick in international brands trying to get franchises only available in development officer. Offerings run show in recent years, but one of the world’s least expensive a foothold here, though the speed and depth of this migration are California, Georgia, Las Vegas, the gamut from chocolate croissants Michelin-star restaurants, the Tim Ho Wan dim sum chain from elusive to date, says Renee Lee, a senior publications specialist at Pennsylvania and Massachusetts. and blueberry yogurt cream cakes Locations: 1,200 locations, includ- genre of dining, one that hovered Hong Kong, outfitted its first U.S. spot in New York City with a tea Datassential. For the most part, it’s been anecdotal. to garlic-cheese baguette and sour- ing Chicago and Virginia, spread between fast casual and premium bar, where guests can learn about and sip rare teas. casual, by fusing traditional dining That’s about to change, though, because American diners are ready Lesson Learned: Freshness and dough soup bowls. What has among five continents. flavor matter. proven most surprising to Amer- expectations with casual dishes. ❱ Create an Exhibit: Kizuki, which recently shortened its name by for international players. Sixty-six percent of respondents to a 2015 icans, Sidoti says, is the layout of Lesson Learned: Everyone loves dropping descriptors ramen and izakaya, built a miniature museum National Restaurant Association study said they’re more likely to eat The Story: Although the origins its stores, which blend self-service dining rooms with a unique ambiance. Customers dining in are greeted inside its Chicago location. Guests can read about the history of ethnic cuisines than they were five years ago, while 85 percent said they of Paris Baguette can be traced displays with traditional counter by a host who reserves a table, ramen, compare different broths and learn about the time- want to eat ethnic dishes at a restaurant that specializes in that cuisine. to a single bakery in South Korea, service. By providing customers The Story: After introducing preventing others from scram- consuming process of making Kizuki’s broths and noodles. Increased economic growth abroad is producing enough excess the chain’s from-scratch products the freedom to select which items much of the world to its famous bling for spots as seats become capital for chains to tackle the American market. In addition, the are as French in spirit as any- they want, Paris Baguette satisfies chicken—birds marinated for at available. In-store diners then order ❱ Don’t Make them Get Up: At the London-based Yo! Sushi, the rising popularity of fast-casual restaurants has created opportunities thing you’d find in an old-world their demand for customization in least 24 hours in PERi-PERi sauce, and head back to the dining area menu of nearly 100 Japanese items, including sashimi, teriyaki fa- for more diverse concepts. Foreign restaurant groups are also boulangerie. The chain bakes its a unique way. In addition, time- made with spicy African Bird’s Eye decorated with South African art vorites and maki rolls, are served on plates color coded to reflect targeting cities with concentrated populations of people who are breads and pastries—all of which stamped sticker tags are placed on Chilli—Nando’s PERi-PERi entered to wait for their food. When their different price points. These items travel through the restaurant familiar with the food. are lighter and airier than typical each item detailing when they were the American market in 2008 with chicken arrives 10 to 12 minutes on conveyor belts, allowing guests to grab their food without To better understand the strategies, history and appeal of these American bakery products—in- baked. Staff constantly checks in- a Washington, D.C., location. After later, guests are encouraged to leaving their seats. Customers don’t seem to mind standing for chains, we’ve profiled five international brands with an eye toward house, imbuing its stores with ventory, baking new items as need- launching in South Africa, the eat with their fingers, following the a while first as they wait for tables in U.S. locations that include what’s been propelling their success. irresistible aromas. ed to ensure maximum freshness. founders wanted to create a new custom in South Africa. Boston and Central Valley, New York.

56 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 57 Kono To-Go’s chicken parm kone offers a new take on an The chain’s transition to the U.S. Italian-American demanded some tweaking. In Brazil, staple. Giraffas is a fast food outlet that com- petes with McDonald’s and Burger Locations: More than 400 loca- King. However, in the U.S., they’re tions in Brazil; 5 locations in Florida, a fast-casual spot, positioned as an including Miami and Orlando. affordable alternative to Brazilian churrascaria steak-houses like Lesson Learned: Stick to what you national chain Fogo de Chao. know best. Giraffas’ take on Brazil’s affinity for The Story: The expansion of the simple grilled seafood, chicken and Brazilian-based food chain Giraffas steak has resonated the most deeply into the U.S. in 2011 was predi- among U.S. diners. Made to order in cated on the unmet need for exotic eight to 12 minutes, these platters interpretations of familiar favorites, can be customized with healthy which the chain calls “approachably sides such as grilled vegetables, unknown” cuisine. At Giraffas’ U.S. simple salads and organic quinoa, all locations, diners can order ham- of which have attracted a swath of burgers made with a picanha blend, health-conscious diners. n Brazil’s famous tri-tip steaks, yucca fries with spicy Sriracha mayo and Peter Gianopulos is a restaurant grilled-to-order salmon dressed with critic and adjunct journalism Bahia butter made with coconut milk professor who’s been covering and Sriracha. food and business for 20 years.

BringI t Diners’ appetite for ethnic foods is booming, suggesting international concepts are poised for success in the United States.

Locations: 130 locations in 20 the pizzas in tissue and set Consumers who are more likely to try ethnic countries; 7 in the U.S. (13 by them in a square base, so cuisine in a restaurant than at home year’s end) they’d be easy to place in car 69% Source: National Restaurant Association holders, carry across malls or Lesson Learned: Focus on mobility. eat while talking on a cell- Adults eat at least one ethnic food on phone. Ruggiero and Ragosa a monthly basis YOUR LINE COOK MIGHT QUIT , The Story: When Italian-born also expanded their offerings, Source: National Restaurant Association Carlo Ruggiero—co-founder of stuffing the cones not only 8 in 10 BUT YOUR QUESO NEVER WILL. Kono To-Go’s U.S. operations— with Italian staples like pep- visited Italy in 2012, he came peroni, chicken parmesan and ® ™ across a cafe selling kono pizzas. meatballs but also American DO THIS: Chefs should add authentic global flavors Land O Lakes Extra Melt White Cheese Sauce brings real dairy deliciousness to queso, mac & cheese They were the brainchild of famed combos like peanut butter and to their menus. and more with hold times that take you from back- to front-of-house. So what’ll you make today? Italian Chef Rossano Boscolo, who jelly, and fudge brownies. shaped crispy high-quality pizza dough into cones and filled them Finding a niche in today’s din- with traditional pizza ingredients. ing market lies in tapping into an increasingly mobile society, TREND TRACKER In Italy, diners often eat kono pizzas says Ragosa. His Kono fran- leisurely in cafe-style settings, but chises include not only brick- Ruggiero and his partner, David and-mortar stores but also LAST SEEN Ragosa, tweaked them for on-the- kiosks and mobile food carts, Philippines-based Jollibee has developed a cult following across the go American consumers. When which he believes will be a hit U.S. with its Chickenjoy fried chicken and spaghetti topped with ham, they opened the first Kono To-Go at events such as concerts, hot dog and ground beef. store in New Jersey, they wrapped festivals and wine tastings. FOODSERVICE

Route# Date: Prod AD Proofer/Writer AE CD Studio Billing # LOL31730 Tracking # LOL32007 Cr. Director S. Martineau File Name Bleed 9.25 x 10.75" Publication: LOL32007_ExtraMeltCheeseSauce_FoodFanatics.ai CMYK Art Director M. Sullivan Food Fanatics Copy Writer M. Brownell Initial Keyline Date: 12.21.16 Trim 9" x 10.5" Account S. Bailey Live 8.5" x 10" (Feb/Apr Issue ‘17) Production A. Wood SIZE

TEAM Product: Tra c C. Bandstra NOTES Extra Melt Cheese Sauce COLOR USE COLOR Retoucher R. Ortiz ALTS

Keyliner R. Ortiz Slug Created: 1/31/12 Printed @ 100% Unless Indicated PR MACHINE Sharp ideas to get butts in seats

latitude around the Willamette Valley area (in Oregon) and then a southern latitude around Russian River, California, and wrapping that 0nly at around the globe to use a common climate but FoodFanatics.com/extras What’s different terroirs,” he says. Even the restaurant’s name Entente, which means amicable understanding or agreement in Get tips on finding inspiration Your Story? French, reinforces the concept of collaboration. for menu storytelling. Lead with the Food A memorable one can sell your All good storytelling starts with elements food. Here’s how to tell it. worth talking about, which, for restaurants, BY ASHLEY GREENE BERNICK means food. concept and menu. When space opened up next door to their “Any server can regurgitate ingredients of uber popular Eventide in Portland, Maine, Arlin a dish,” Fujimura says. “It’s about providing Smith and his partners landed on a noodle bar informed service—being able to convey the A restaurant’s story is more than what fits on concept. Inspired by an ancient Chinese tradi- thought process behind the dish and how that the menu or what shows up on the plate. tion of serving a bear’s paw stewed in honey— plays into our idea of global flavors and differ- Sharing it in a way that resonates with diners deemed a delicacy—to honorary guests and tying ent techniques.” EXTRA AD creates a connection, a bond that can increase it to the concept of a bear emerging from hiber- At Entente, servers and front of the house sales and lead to loyal customers. nation to feast on honey from a wild beehive, staff, including bartenders and food run- But if a restaurant’s story and identity aren’t they came up with the name The Honey Paw. ners, are expected to know the menu, which built off anything genuine, customers won’t The story piqued diners’ interest, but they Fujimura reinforces through tastings and PAGE 61 buy into it. weren’t immediately sold on the menu. encouraging them to ask questions. “Don’t build a restaurant off of trends. Build it “Right out of the gate, the food seemed too off of something that reflects who you are,” says fussy,” Smith says. “We were trying to put our Invest in the Story Ty Fujimura of Fujimura Hospitality in Chicago. best foot forward but realized some of that While diner-facing staffers are expected to know Consider Entente, the concept that fussiness may turn people off, especially in a the menu and its story by heart, it’s even more Fujimura opened with some of the city’s casual restaurant.” important that they believe in the concept. notable hospitality creatives—Chef Brian Smith reworked the menu, offering dishes “It’s about not only mastering the menu Fisher of Michelin-starred Schwa, Mari with wider appeal such as smoked lamb khao but also being able to personally attach your- Katsumura, the ex-pastry chef at fine-dining soi in a Burmese coconut curry with fermented self to a part of the menu,” Fujimura says. Acadia and Angie Silberberg, a beverage expert mustard greens, crispy fried noodle and lime, “It helps when they can get excited about formerly of Acadia and Soho House. as well as a lobster tartine topped with a salad the food because they truly enjoy it and can “We wanted an evolving restaurant that that changes seasonally. represent it personally.” feeds off the sum of its own parts by banding Encourage staff to connect to the menu together a collection of experienced talent in Back It Up—All the Way and how it’s presented, which in turn ensures one room and pushing for a true collaborative Sharing the restaurant’s story shouldn’t stop quality service, Fujimura says. For example, if effort in the kitchen,” Fujimura says. with food and drink. Every element of the your concept uses local purveyors, offer field The team shook up the traditional role of restaurant, from decor to service, should com- trips to the farm, so staff can experience first- the executive chef by sharing the duties. Each municate a cohesive, meaningful message. hand the way produce is grown or protein is person contributes to the menu, which is For The Honey Paw, burnt honey colors raised. For a training session, bring purveyors driven by seasonality and cross-cultural inter- appear throughout the restaurant and custom to the restaurant for show and tell. pretations of global dishes. “We’ll start with handmade lampshades shaped like honey- “If a person’s not enjoying their job or very traditional techniques but use ingredi- comb work as accents. isn’t 100 percent behind the restaurant, that ents from outside of those techniques’ region feeling spreads like cancer. You can’t have [of origin],” Fujimura says. Equip Your Storytellers that,” Fujimura says. “You need to have pride. The wine menu follows a similarly Front of house staffers, who function as the It puts the diner in a place where they feel wide-ranging, yet thematic structure that narrators of a menu’s story, are essential to comfortable, where they trust the server and adds to their story. “We’re taking a northern gaining customer buy-in when it comes to the the chef.” n

60 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 The LOW COST. SCIENCEof Superior QUALITY. Menu WE’LL PROVE IT. design

PLAIN and SIMPLE These research-backed methods lead to better sales BY JODI HELMER Call Team Three Group At 636-730-3707 IMAGES BY THINKSTOCK IMAGES FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 63 It’s important to use Menu engineers colors that believe the top reinforce order dessert. That’s because research suggests right corner of with mostly shorter listings, giving items with logos and the menu is the blue is an appetite suppressant. Red, on the brand sweet spot to lower food costs a longer description will draw other hand, can stimulate the appetite; some imagery catch diners’ the attention to that item, Allen says. restaurants use the hot hue for meals with the attention highest profit margins to encourage sales. Pick the Right Price Urban Food Group uses bright colors on While pricing items requires researching food several of its Raleigh restaurant menus: costs and performing complex calculations, Red ink highlights each section heading at expressing the price on the menu should be Coquette Brasserie; on the Chow menu, much simpler. orange provides a pop of color that makes the Expressing Allen recommends skipping the dollar signs menu headings stand out; and to direct diners the price on and sticking with round numbers. For example, to specific dishes at Vivace, the primi section of the menu an item priced at $10.95 is better expressed as 11. the menu is highlighted with an orange border. should be At Avelina, to make the prices less conspic- Using photos is another way to introduce simple: uous, Jennings places them at the end of each color on a menu. If a concept permits it, rather skip the item description instead of lining them up dollar signs than staged stock photos, Allen suggests a style with the header. and stick similar to the amateur photography diners post with round “These are the kinds of small placement on Instagram. “These authentic food photos are numbers decisions that make a difference,” he says.n more effective than stock photos that are used on hundreds of restaurant menus,” he says. Freelance journalist Jodi Helmer covers the intersection of food and business. Follow her Prioritize Placement Descriptions that on Twitter @helmerjodi. THE FIRST TIME KEVIN JENNINGS DINED AT A JAMES Most diners don’t read menus from top to capture ingredient bottom, left to right. Menu engineers believe the sourcing or prep methods can add BEARD-NOMINATED RESTAURANT IN RALEIGH, NORTH top right corner of the menu is the sweet spot to to a dish’s appeal catch diners’ attention—and Jennings agrees. CAROLINA, HE WAS CONFUSED ABOUT HOW TO ORDER. “A lot of repetitive sales come from that corner of the menu,” he says. HE BLAMED THE MENU. To capitalize on placement, he switches up The Net Net Too tired to read? We pulled out the locations of dishes on all of his restaurants’ “The entree- and appetizer-sized items were Looks Are (Almost) Everything to find it,” he says. “I want to tempt them with descriptions include the names of standout the most relevant points on menu menus. Seasonal, cost-effective items get the placement to encourage better sales. mixed together on the menu and we had no Paper, plastic, cardboard are all materials that coveted top right corner; dishes prepared with some lighter bites to go along with their main farmers and producers. idea of portion size,” says Jennings, co-owner communicate brand image, Allen says. For item.” His approach is backed by science: The “We want the menu to do as much of the pricier ingredients are placed in less visually HOT HUES like red and orange of Urban Food Group, which operates six example, thick paper or menus tucked in serial position effect leads people to remember work as possible of describing a dish to our commanding areas of the menu. stimulate appetite restaurants in North Carolina and Colorado. leather sleeves send the message that the the first and last items in a list best. guests,” Lubin explains. “The more description Lubin takes a different strategy: He knows COOL COLORS like blues suppress “We tried to decipher how much to order restaurant and the food are high-end. the Blind Monk’s bacon and egg biscuit is one we can provide, the fewer questions guests will “Our menu feels good to hold,” says Ben Use Your Words have for our very busy servers who are trying based on the prices and advice from our server of the most popular items on the breakfast Amateur PHOTOGRAPHY (aka, but it was confusing.” Lubin, chef and owner of the Blind Monk in menu, so he lists it last. His rationale? “I want Descriptive titles, like “Nana’s Favorite to balance providing warm, attentive service Instagram) adds color and A menu does more than describe dishes and West Palm Beach, Florida. The aged brown people to read all the way through the menu Chicken Soup and Country Peach Tart,” can to all guests even when we are really crowded.” authenticity list prices. A well-designed menu reinforces a leather sleeves that cradle the restaurant’s help boost sales up to 27 per- restaurant’s identity, improves service times menus makes diners feel like the Blind Monk cent compared to simpler ones, like … But Don’t Spew Word Vomit The SWEET SPOT is the upper right and entices diners to order certain dishes, has withstood the test of time, he says. “Chicken Soup and Peach Tart,” Hit those moneymaking descriptors, but don’t corner of the menu boosting revenue. The menu is so mighty that For Avelina in Denver, Jennings prints according to researchers at the Food and get wordy. “Too much description can be over- global restaurant consultant Aaron Allen calls menus on thick paper with date stamps. Paper, Brand Lab at the University of Illinois (now whelming,” adds Jennings, who says his group’s People remember the FIRST AND it “the most important piece of information a “It helps diners see that the menu changes, located at Cornell University). approach to menu descriptions is “minimalist.” LAST ITEMS of a list best, so put restaurant produces.” that the food is fresh; a date stamp makes those plastic, cardboard Specifically, descriptions that capture ingre- “It should be long enough to describe the slow movers there “It is a product list, price list, guest commu- inferences,” he says. are all materials dient sourcing or prep methods can add to a food, ingredients and how it’s prepared,” Allen nicator and brand differentiator rolled into dish’s appeal. At the Blind Monk, bacon kettle says. “When the descriptions are too long or OMITTING THE DOLLAR SIGN or a single document,” he says. “It should be the Capitalize on Color that communicate corn is described as, “Appalachian heirloom there are too many items on the menu, diners spelling out a price—eleven versus best server you have on the floor.” It’s important to use colors that reinforce brand image. sweet flint popping corn with sea salt,” and need extra time to read through the menu, and 11—works better for pricier items. Sounds daunting? Maybe not so much if you logos and brand imagery, but some tones may the description for warm biscuits highlights it slows down the speed of service.” consider these science-backed tips for getting do more harm than good. Print a menu with the creamed honey and softened farmstead Varying the length of descriptions can help it just right. blue ink on blue paper and diners may not butter served with the dish. In addition, menu highlight more profitable items. On a menu

64 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 65 Seasoned advice on the DEAR FOOD FANATIC front and back of the house

I’m having a tough time motivating my “seasoned” waitstaff to upsell. They tell me, “I’ve been waiting tables for 15 years; I think I know what I’m doing.’ How do I get them to suggest new items on the menu?” Find out what motivates them instead of giving ultimatums. Is it competition? A financial bonus? Maybe it’s a day off or dibs on scheduling. Once you know, run contests and reward top sellers with those coveted prizes. Bring in a sales training service or look to your supplier for marketing or training programs that are effective and fun. HERITAGE Q. How can I save on labor costs without Q. Any tips on building a locally skimping on food quality? sustainable menu? A. Restaurateurs no longer have to guess customer A. Never build an entire menu on local sustainable counts and sales. Software programs consider past foods, or you’ll risk pricing your menu out of your PAGE 67 sales to help operators order smarter and reduce market. Instead, pick a few key items that can be food waste. This tech can also help with scheduling by featured throughout the menu. Spotlight them, and staggering shifts for cooks and other kitchen help. In spread the word using social media. Although locally addition, look at low-tech solutions such as using the produced items make great promotional fodder, be same ingredients in more than one dish. This approach sure you can track the profitability of your purchases. also works with staff. When everyone knows how to do parts of their co-workers’ jobs, your business benefits. Q. Customer counts are down. We used to hit 100 a night. Now, we reach 25 to 50. It seems my Q. Is social media really that important? clientele is aging and not coming as often. A. That’s a loud and clear, “Yes.” Figure out how your A. Our business world has changed. Unlimited FOOD FANATIC customers—not just today’s diners, but tomorrow’s as expense accounts have gone away, and millennials Matthew Dean is a well—are communicating. Certain demographics are on aren’t as loyal as older generations. It may be time to Food Fanatics chef Twitter versus Facebook, while others prefer Instagram reevaluate your model. Update your decor, look for for US Foods from Streator, or Snapchat. If you’re a newbie, consult an expert, but inspiration in your menu and find other avenues to Illinois, with a passion remember that effective social media use is not about generate sales. Be proactive. for teaching. setting and forgetting it. The most successful brands work continuously to keep followers engaged. Q. I’m seeing nonalcoholic beverages more on menus, especially lighter beverages that fit into Q. How should I handle unruly online reviews? healthier lifestyles. How can I work some of those A. Reply to all your reviews, good or bad, but drinks into my menu? especially the bad. Thank the reviewers for their A. Spring is the perfect time to play around with feedback and let them know you’re always looking to ingredients. Freshly juiced fruits and vegetables improve service. Then offer to schedule a time to talk or complemented by muddled herbs, berries and natural For more tips, follow the ask for advice on improving the dining experience. Most sweeteners offer endless possibilities. The health Food Fanatic on Twitter at people will appreciate the response and acknowledge benefits of hot peppers and the popularity of spice @chefmathu. you took the time to address their concerns. can bring some heat into healthy beverages. n

Got a question for the Food Fanatics? Send your challenges, comments and suggestions to [email protected].

66 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 Ice Picks

Size and shape matters for keeping a cocktail cold BY KATE BERNOT

68 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 69 The Bottom The restaurant’s Buzzer cocktail Classic Old at the Townsend Fashioned includes in Austin, Texas, a 1-inch cube to features flake ice. open up flavors.

RockWhen it comes to cocktails, ice is no longer On a one-size-fits-all proposition. Consider these options to move past “on the rocks” from Justin Elliott, general manager at the Townsend in Austin, Texas. Rise of the FLAKE ICE 2-INCH BY Machines BEST FOR: Rapid dilution of viscous, syrup-heavy cocktails and creating a soft, 2-INCH BLOCK BEST FOR: Straight spirit pours or stirred cocktails. Some of the chewable, snowlike texture. These ice blocks have a visual impact that can Townsend’s specialty increase the perceived value of the drink. They ice shapes come also prevent diluting already well-balanced stirred courtesy of a Hoshizaki Bottom Buzzer cocktails that just need chilling. 1½ ounces Aylesbury Duck Vodka flaker and Hoshizaki ¼ ounce green chartreuse cuber ($3,200 to ½ ounce grapefruit juice $17,550). Clinebell ½ ounce lemon juice Lindsay Park machines also produce ½ ounce honey syrup 1½ ounces Wild Turkey 101 Rye crystal-clear blocks 8 drops orange blossom water ¾ ounce Dolin Vermouth Dry from 11 to 300 pounds, ¾ ounce Cynar 70 1 grapefruit peel, which can then be Edible flowers, as needed 10 drops Scrappy’s Cardamom Bitters broken down into smaller shapes. Mix ingredients in a Collins glass, add flake ice to Build cocktail in a mixing glass, add 1-inch cubes fill two-thirds of the glass and swizzle vigorously. Fill and stir until spirits are incorporated, lightly diluted the rest of the glass with flake ice, add a straw and and chilled. Strain the drink into an old fashioned Cocktail-ready and garnish with grapefruit peel and edible flowers. glass containing a 2 by 2-inch block. Garnish with custom-shaped ice lemon peel. can also be purchased in most cities. There’s JustIce in Chicago, Fat Ice in Austin, Texas,

1-INCH CUBE PDX Ice in BEST FOR: Hard-shaking cocktails. These cubes CRACKED ICE Portland, Oregon, infused with air open up flavors and BEST FOR: Splitting the difference between and New York City’s help citrus ingredients shine. flaked ice and cubes, a sort of in-between Hundredweight Ice. shape; it preserves carbonation better than crushed ice. especially because ice’s job is to stabilize 12 minutes. The best ice for that drink holds Classic Old Fashioned TEMPERATURE, FLAVOR a drink. Soft, high-surface-area ice “just its temperature and strength throughout the 2 ounces Wild Turkey 101 Rye AND TEXTURE CAN MAKE absolutely gives up” in cocktails, Elliott duration of the cocktail. ½ ounce simple syrup made with raw sugar 4 to 5 dashes housemade or Angostura Classic Mojito says. So chip ice, the crescents that standard 10 to 12 mint leaves, gently muddled OR BREAK A COCKTAIL, aromatic bitters hotel ice machines spit out, is what Elliott 2. Think about the surface area. The 1½ ounces Caña Brava Rum ¾ ounce lime juice SO THE SHAPE, SIZE AND calls “shi!ty ice,” not because it isn’t sexy or greater the surface area, the faster the drink Build the drink in an old fashioned glass. Add 1 ounce simple syrup QUALITY OF ICE IN A BAR spherical or perfectly clear but because it will dilute, which is why standard crescents 1-inch cubes and stir briefly. Garnish with lemon SHOULD NEVER BE AFTER- doesn’t do its job. And Elliott takes the role water a drink down quicker than a spherical peel; if using bourbon instead of rye, use an Build drink in a Collins glass, add cracked ice up of ice in cocktails seriously—going so far as ice cube, which has a smaller surface area. orange peel. to 2/3 of the glass full; stir briefly. Fill the rest of THOUGHTS. to include the type of ice used in cocktail the glass with cracked ice and top with sparkling T ELL A few years ago, oversized, singular ice descriptions on the Townsend’s menu. To help 3. Don’t be afraid to build drinks in water. Stir briefly again; add straw and garnish with squares landed—solidly, dramatically—in whis- you adapt some of the secrets of a cocktail different ways. You may think your menu a mint sprig. ME A key drinks across the country. Even if those aficionado for your menu, he shares some tips. needs a gin drink on the rocks, but if that ST ORY 3-ounce cubes aren’t ideal for all cocktails, they specific recipe tastes better shaken and served became so ubiquitous that customers started to 1. Focus on the lifetime of the drink. A up, don’t fight it.n take note of the effect on their drinks. cocktail should be equally delicious from start It actually pays to be particular about ice, to finish, and Elliott recommends a good drink An editor at Draft Magazine, beverage PUNCH BOWL ICE BLOCK says Justin Elliott, general manager and should last about 15 minutes. Test your ice by expert Kate Bernot appreciates the right-sized BEST FOR: Punches and large-format drinks, also great for freezing berries, citrus and herbs into for visual impact. Ice managing partner at cocktail bar and music taking a sip when a cocktail is first built, then ice in her cocktails. Follow her on Twitter blocks freeze from one side to another like a wave, pushing trapped gas and other impurities across its length. Large venue the Townsend in Austin, Texas, after three to four minutes, then after 10 to @KBernot. blocks have an advantage; the impure section, which melts faster, can be cut off, leaving behind pure, clear ice.

70 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 71 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time

Pika-Chuhai, a tweak on the Chuhai—a regular Yusho cocktail with a nod to the best-known Be Found Pokemon monster. The restaurant Games aren’t the only way to invited players in to try the drink, embrace location-based marketing. made with a Japanese clear liquor Here are three other apps and called shochu and a lemon peel to technologies that help bring nearby resemble Pikachu’s tail. customers to your door. “It didn’t require a lot of fore- thought, and it worked better than FOURSQUARE we expected,” says Emily Condon, A local search-and-discovery app, general manager at Yusho. Foursquare has clocked more than 10 billion check-ins since 2. Take Manageable Risks launching in 2009. When Pokemon In the world of location-based Go pushed location-based gaming marketing, experimenting doesn’t mainstream in 2016, Foursquare’s check-in rate jumped higher than require a ton of time or money. ever, to 8 million per day. L’inizio’s Pizza Bar in Queens NESTLE became one of the first restau- SPOTLUCK rants to capitalize on the craze by By tapping a spinning roulette diving in with small stakes. Just wheel within this app, users can $10 for “lure modules,” an in-game unlock promotional deals, such as PAGE 73 purchase, helped spike food and up to 35 percent off, at nearby drink sales by 30 percent. restaurants. And behind the “The Pokémon boom seems to be scenes, operators can tweak the promotions based on weather, You Are Here over,” says manager Alex Kuchaska, daypart and foot traffic. Be at the ready for location-based marketing who is no longer buying lures. “But BY KATE ROCKWOOD of course we will jump on the next ILLUSTRATION BY VERONICA PADILLA BEACONS location-based game. If people Small, portable devices that can be want to play, we want to try it out.” placed in a restaurant and communicate with nearby smartphones, Clutching their mobile devices, business front and center. 3. All for One, One for All beacons are also feeding the millions of gamers scoured their While it’s impossible to predict Noting that many other restau- location-based marketing mania, cities for roving virtual critters the next craze, you can be ready to rants in the area had put up “No says Darren Tristano, president of foodservice research and consul- when Pokemon Go debuted, jump on it. Here’s how. Pokemon” signs, Kaune encouraged tancy Technomic. “While beacon boosting sales at thousands of his waitstaff to play the game and technology has been available for restaurants located near the action. 1. Consider Your Environment spent $160 on lures to draw more years, mainstream restaurants are Some operators jumped on the No matter what gaming app fires people to his restaurant’s area. “I just starting to experiment with it,” trend’s marketing potential just up the masses, pay attention to didn’t want people thinking we Tristano says. Beacons can also as fast as the location-based app your surroundings and prepare looked down our noses and thought send alerts on short wait times, caught fire, but most were left to react quickly. When Pokemon Pokemon was dumb,” he says. attracting impatient diners and turning a slow night into a selling point. scratching their heads. Go was trending, the team at The game attracted a wide For those who missed out, now’s Chicago’s Yusho, a Japanese- range of customers, from younger the time to get ready for the oppor- inspired small plates restaurant, diners to people in their 60s try- and beverages, increasing sales by tunities that GPS-based technol- noticed people milling about out- ing to catch Pokemons for their up to 50 percent during Pokemon ogy creates. In real time, they can side and realized the restaurant grandkids, Kaune says. Other Go’s opening weekend, Kaune entice new and regular customers had become a virtual meeting establishments feared players says. And it also contributed to a to come in on the fly, build your place where Pokemons battled. would take up space and just order convivial atmosphere—something restaurant’s brand, and keep the The staff quickly created the water, but every player bought food money can’t buy. n

72 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 MOVE OVER, VODKA. A group in one shot. The bar’s selection nods at “GINAISSANCE” IS UPON US. seasonality and highlights the gin’s unlimited DUTCH COURAGE IS BACK pairing options. The orange fennel punch, for example, blends Death’s Door gin, Galliano, AND TRADING ITS PINE- Italian vermouth, fennel juice, lime and FORWARD AROMA FOR A orange marmalade. To get in on the gin action, follow these tips SMOOTHER BLEND OF from Erik Holzherr. He’s the gintender and FLORAL BOTANICALS AND owner of Wisdom in Washington, D.C., which CITRUS. touts the largest gin selection in the metro D.C. area. Millennials make up the majority of regular consumers, and if they’re buying in, there’s Do Your Homework likely a craft movement close behind. Craft Read about different styles of gin and taste distilling is, in fact, the gin category hero. each. This knowledge comes in handy when While larger brands like Seagram’s, Tanqueray a customer says he doesn’t want a drink that and Bombay Sapphire are posting case feels like getting smacked in the mouth with a sale losses, smaller producers are building pine branch. momentum. Gin represented 23 percent of global craft spirit launches in 2015, up Cover Your Bases from 9 percent in 2011, according to market A well-curated gin collection should include research company Mintel. a classic London Dry, delicate floral, aged, Old “For craft producers, gin has the advantage Tom and navy strength gin. of taking days rather than years to produce, unlike whiskey,” says Jonny Forsyth, global Inspect the Goods drinks analyst at Mintel. “As startups seek to Not all gins are distilled equally. Don’t get balance production of more nuanced spirits suckered into something because of its with the commercial realities, gin is an label. Have a plan, and make sure the product appealing choice.” warrants the cost. Operators are drinking the juice, too.

Gin-centric cocktail lounges and bars are Pair the Right Gin with Each Drink popping up around the country, extending Don’t let a strong bitter crush the flavor of an customers’ options far beyond the standard Old Tom cocktail. Take flavor pairings to heart, Martinez, gimlet or Negroni. At Midnight and let the botanicals shine through, accentu- Rambler, a craft cocktail salon in Dallas, Must-try ated by the right supporting ingredients. drinks feature unique flavor combinations, Consumers who order gin like the Savory Hunter, which pairs lemon- Ditch the Crappy Tonic grass and makrut leaf gin with lime, coconut, Don’t ruin a high-quality spirit with bad tonic. at a bar or restaurant at cilantro and Thai chilies. methods for You’re halfway there—break out the good stuff In addition to an extensive cocktail list, least once a month or make your own. Whitechapel in San Francisco offers gin Source: Technomic punches and bowls—a great way to serve a Get Them Coming Back for More enlivening A gin club or tasting program allows customers to expand their palate. Consider offering a TREND TRACKER discount on gin cocktails for program members It’s Always Sunny or reward frequent purchases with prizes or Bartender Erik Holzherr the bar exclusive tastings. It’ll give customers a reason Wisdom, Washington, D.C. BY FOOD FANATICS STAFF to return, increase sales and build loyalty. LAST SEEN 1½ ounces Bluecoat Gin ½ ounce Luxardo Lemoncello Osteria’s gin and tonic is pretty in pink, Serve Responsibly. ¼ ounce Aperol literally: The Australian restaurant uses Ink Know the alcohol content of each gin poured, Soda water, as needed Gin, a floral- infused spirit with a distinct as well as each serving size. Consider recom- Heed the call for pastel hue. mending the high proof drinks before—and Roll ingredients over ice and serve in a highball innovative gin drinks. not after—two martinis. n glass topped with soda water. Makes 1 drink.

74 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 75 BTN

“The Loaded Greek”

Topped is #Trending

Your patrons look to you for on-trend tastes – so give ‘em a taste of what’s next. Lamb Weston® Sweet Things® are deliciously crispy, deliver true sweet potato flavor and make it easy to reimagine your menu in so many sweet ways. Get ready for more ‘likes’.

Find recipe ideas and see what’s possible with sweet potatoes at LambWeston.com/SweetThings

C = 4 C = 100 C = 0 C = 0 M = 2 M = 45 M = 76 M = 30 Y = 4 Y = 0 Y = 100 Y = 100 K = 9 K = 60 K = 0 K = 0

Route# Date: Prod AD Proofer/Writer AE CD Studio Billing # LAMB31911 Tracking # SAME Cr. Director S. Martineau File Name Bleed 9.25 x 10.75" Publication: Art Director M. Sullivan LAMB31911_SweetThings_DomesticAd_FoodFanatics.ai CMYK Trim Food Fanatics Copy Writer E. Homan Initial Keyline Date: 1.4.17 9" x 10.5" Account L. Rubio Live (Jan Issues ‘17) 1 RO 1.5.17 8.5" x 10" Production A. Wood SIZE

TEAM Product:

2 RO 1.6.17 NOTES Tra c C. Bandstra Sweets Things Domestic COLOR USE COLOR Retoucher M. D'Ouville ALTS

Keyliner R. Ortiz Slug Created: 1/31/12 Printed @ 100% Unless Indicated MAKE AUTHENTIC TASTE YOUR SPECIALTY

You cook to bring people together. And only Sterling Silver Premium Meats delivers the superior beef offering your patrons are looking for. Because when you’re cooking for others, you deserve guaranteed tenderness, juiciness and flavor in every cut. With superior ingredients at your disposal, creating great dishes has never been easier. Learn more at sterlingsilvermeats.com

42100-SS-FoodFanatic.indd 1 7/8/16 1:17 PM

Client: Sterling Silver - Cargill Ad Title: MAKE AUTHENTIC TASTE YOUR SPECIALTY Publication: Food Fanatic Trim: 9” x 10.5” • Bleed: 9.25” x 10.75” • Live: .25” inside margin