Shellharbour City Council Heritage Study Volume 2

Thematic History

by Andrea Humphreys and Anna London

November 2005

(Master Copy) CONTENTS Preface 1 13 Lest We Forget 54 Authorship 2 Private Atchison 55 Colonel Fuller 56 1 Tom Thumb-Foolery: The Exploration of the 3 The Diggerʼs Gun 57 “Killer” Caldwell 58 2 The Most Beatuiful Wood 6 Defence Installations 58 3 From Forest to Farm 9 RSL Clubs 59 Large Estates and Small 11 14 Lending A Hand 60 The Osborne Family 14 Housing Commission 61 Tracks Through Shellharbour 15 Social And Welfare Groups 61 Rev. J.D. Lang & The Scottish Families 16 15 Municipal Moments 63 Caroline Chisholmʼs Great Experiment 16 16 Communication 66 4 King Mickey 19 Letters From Home 66 5 Up The Pass 22 Extra! Extra! Read All About It! 67 6 Milk Money 27 Radio Days 68 Co-Operative Marketing 29 17 Seaside Rendezvous 70 7 Sea Lanes 33 18 Modernisation 78 Shipwrecks 35 Electricity 80 8 Living and Learning 37 Water Supply 80 Public Schooling 39 Libraries 80 Denominational Schooling 40 9 Six Feet Under 41 A Final Word 82 10 From A Distant Land 43 Bibliography 83 11 A Village By The Sea 47 Endnotes 87 12 From Here to There 49 Appendix A - Shipwrecks 94 Bridges and Roads 49 Appendix B - Public & Denominational Schools 96 Road and Water Transport 50 Appendix C - Newspapers In & Around Shellharbour 98 Iron Rails 50 Up, Up And Away 52 Appendix D - National, State & Local Themes 100 PREFACE The writing of this history has been a collaborative effort involving the contributions of many people, young and old. When Anna and I were initially contracted to prepare this document, we intended to write in the accepted academic manner, with perhaps a little more colour. As the study progressed and we came to know the people of Shellharbour, it became apparent that such a history would not only be inadequate, it would be inappropriate.

We were privileged to meet the custodians of legends and stories that had been passed from father to son, mother to daughter, through as many as 6 generations. We were also delighted to meet those who had lived through some of Shellharbour’s more interesting recent history and whose memories of the place when it was principally a family holiday destination, were vivid and inspiring. We came to understand that the history of Shellharbour belonged not to us academics, but to the community. Their story was bound up not only in the dusty volumes and papers of archives and libraries, but in the very fabric of life.

Instead of telling a conventional story of the place, we resolved instead to tell the story of the people. The people who traversed the globe to settle here; the people who built the roads; the people who carved a niche in the smothering forests and created a community; the people who farmed the land and fed the colony; the people who lived, fell in love, raised their families and died in a place they called Shellharbour.

This is their story.

Andrea Humphreys November 2005

1 AUTHORSHIP This history was written principally by Andrea Humphreys and Anna London. However, it would not have been possible without the research assistance of community volunteers. We would therefore like to acknowledge the valuable contributions of the following people:

John Bentley Ross Cook Kathleen Sunderland Noel Jones Margaret Keevers Saadia Rich Cr Michele Greig Cr Christine Jeffreys Cr Tim Hore Cr Tom Hawker

We particularly wish to thank Kevin and Dorothy Gillis of the Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Kevin and Dorothy not only made the Society’s archives available to us, but also contributed much of their own research and gave freely and generously of their time. Without their unparalleled knowledge of the district we would have missed important stories from the past and failed to identify relics from those stories in the field. Their enthusiasm and support for the study was greatly appreciated.

We are also deeply indebted to the staff of Shellharbour City Council, whose advice, support and ongoing assitance made the study possible. In particular we wish to thank Leanne Knight, Kylie Fairhall and Jim Tremain whose active participation in the study and administrative assistance was greatly appreciated. Thank you also to Council’s Heritage Advisor, Sue Jackson.

2 1. TOM THUMB-FOOLERY: THE EXPLORATION OF THE ILLAWARRA In 1795, had recently completed a surgeon’s apprenticeship. Established by his mother as a village apothecary Between times, Flinders amused himself by playing the flute and in Lincolnshire, Bass looked forward to an uneventful life marked privately dosing himself with large quantities of mercury, in an effort only by the ailments of farmers. However, a passion for seafaring to cure his ongoing battle with gonorrhoea, (the result of a romantic inspired when a young boy could not be suppressed and he dalliance in Tahiti in 1791). Of the planned voyage itself, Flinders abandoned his shop, obtaining a commission as surgeon to the wrote: HMS Reliance. In addition to Captain Hunter, the Reliance carried a young midshipman by the name of , also from “Projects of this nature, when originating in the minds of young Lincolnshire and whose thirst for adventure was based on a men, are usually termed romantic; and so far from any good being clandestine reading of Robinson Crusoe beneath the bedcovers anticipated, even prudence and friendship join in discouraging, if not 4 at night. A combination of youthful vigour, determination and a in opposing them.” penchant for adventure bound the would-be explorers together and they became immediate friends.1 Flinders would later recount with Within two months of arriving in the Colony, Bass and Flinders, with fierce pleasure his first meeting with “... a man whose ardour for their crew of one (William Martin, the “loblolly boy”), set off in the discovery was not to be repressed by any obstacles nor deterred diminutive Tom Thumb5 on their first expedition to Botany Bay and by danger…” and regarded Bass with great fondness. Bass was a the . At eight feet in length, the Tom Thumb was only burly man with a predilection for crimped wigs; Flinders was slight two feet longer than Bass and had been purchased by Bass from and dark with a gentle countenance. Together, they were arresting the Deptford shipyards before leaving England. With this highly in their contrasts and the duo cut a dashing picture. unsuitable vessel the pair intended to pass through the Heads into the Pacific Ocean, then on to Botany Bay to chart the At this time much of the east coast of was Georges River.6 Despite being ridiculously overburdened, the trio uncharted (with the exception of a few rough and highly inaccurate explored 20 miles further up the river than any European before maps) and although investigative trips had been as far south them and paved the way for settlement at Banks Town as a result. as Jervis Bay and north to Port Stephens, the intricacies of the intervening areas remained largely unknown.2 The energetic Bass The fruits of their initial endeavour made embarkation for their and Flinders were determined to rectify this malady and the pair second trip much easier. Bass and Flinders set off on 25 March whiled away the tedium of their Antipodean ocean voyage dreaming 1796 to explore a large river said to fall into the sea some miles of exploratory escapades: south of Botany Bay.7 This time they sailed in the Tom Thumb II, a “... with this friend a determination was formed of completing vessel hardly superior to the original, which they boldly took straight the examination of the east coast of New South Wales, by all such out to sea “... to be ready for the sea breeze.”8 opportunities as the duty of the ship and procurable means could admit.”3 Matthew Flinders, March 1796

3 Searching for the and caught in the grip of an their guides were more likely to roast them slowly over an open fire unforseen current, the explorers overshot their mark somewhat than lead them to water. With no choice but to follow, they became and ended up near . Not at all flummoxed, the party ever more wary. The explorers were sure they were being led to headed for some small islands further south in the hope of finding the entrance of with menacing intent; coupled with potable water. As Bass swam ashore, (fully dressed as only a 19th the shallowness of the water at the lake entrance and the growing century Englishman would), with cask in hand, the Tom Thumb II number of Aboriginal men walking along the shore, they lamented was caught by a rogue wave and dumped on the beach, wetting their waterlogged weapons. The explorers knew that turning north supplies, equipment and explorers alike. Water was not found, but without fresh water could lead to mission failure, so thirst overcame two Aboriginal men they had exchanged food with earlier at Red fear and they waded ashore to refill their water casks, clean their Point told the party that fresh water could be obtained a few miles guns and repair their damaged oar.10 further on. Guided by these two men the exploration party travelled further south in a by now desperate quest for fresh water.9 The relief granted by fresh water was negated by an ever increasing As adventurous as the Lincolnshire duo were, they were nonetheless hoard watching their every move. Panicking, the men wanted to young and slightly naïve. Fed on a steady diet of sailor’s yarns on depart but feared leaving without the protection of their muskets, the outward voyage about the treacherous “natives” they feared still rendered useless. Forced to stay until the gun powder that lay in the sun was dry, the two Aboriginal guides took it upon themselves to encourage their counterparts to have their hair and beards clipped by the European explorers. Being well pleased with the job Bass and Flinders had done on them during their trip south, the two paraded their shorn look. Although the scissors frightened some, Flinders contrived to become barber to about a dozen men,11 and thus became the first barber in the Illawarra.

Bass and Flinders’ fear of the Aboriginal men increased when the locals became anxious for the explorers to follow them further up the lagoon. The more they gesticulated the more frightened the explorers became, reasoning that surely enticing them further into the lagoon could only be for sinister purposes. Fortunately, Flinders’ barbering activity had afforded sufficient time for the gun powder to dry properly and with some very hard rowing the party was able to move into deeper water and out of reach of the Aboriginal group. They could not move out of lake entrance that evening, and after “Tom Thumb” replica at Shellharbour Festival 2000. The replica gives some repeatedly telling the Aboriginal men that hung around that they idea as to the cramped conditions onboard and the fragility of the vessel. would not go up the lagoon, they fired a shot and the local party and (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

4 their two earlier guides finally left. They moved out to sea late that Following Bass and Flinders’ brief visit in March 1796, the locality evening,12 and away from the Shellharbour locality. was left to the indigenous inhabitants for a few years. From the The return journey was not without its perils, including a severe turn of the 18th century the Illawarra buzzed with Europeans and the electrical storm on the first night at sea, that forced them inland Shellharbour area was not immune. A number of shipwrecks, some in search of shelter. More by good luck than good management, just a bit further south in the Shoalhaven, saw sailors traipsing Flinders steered them through the only gap in the towering cliffs on through the Illawarra back to Sydney; these would have passed that section of coast - the safe harbour of .13 Somewhat through the Shellharbour area.16 Other exploratory crews entered restored, they continued towards their original destination, Port the Shellharbour area in 1804 – 1805.17 In the 1810s further Hacking and the Hacking River, taking two days to map the river exploration into the area was undoubtedly undertaken by early before returning to Sydney. In just seven days they had sailed pastoralists and cedar getters who travelled the rugged Illawarra from Sydney to Shellharbour and back with only the most limited illegally in search of pasture and timber. Explorer George Evans resources; it had been a perilous camped at Barrack Point on his way and triumphant undertaking.14 to Appin in 1812 and Surveyors Oxley and Meehan surveyed the Bass and Flinders exploration of Shellharbour area in 1816, returning the Australian continent did not in 1819 to further traverse the finish there. Both continued to southern Illawarra; Oxley by ship travel and explore, although not and Meehan on foot. It is likely that always together. On instruction from Meehan entered the Shellharbour Captain Hunter, Bass again entered area again at this time. Meehan’s the Illawarra in 1797 in search of surveys signalled the end of local survivors from the wrecked Sydney exploration as the next Europeans Cove, (or their remains if they had to arrive in Shellharbour came to perished), and coal, which was stay.18 reported to be in abundance in the locality. Unfortunately the area searched has not been accurately defined and it is unknown if Bass The coastline from Bass Point to Minnamurra, much as it would have looked to Bass & Flinders. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, no date). returned to the Shellharbour area on this trip. He did sail past on another trip south later in the year, but did not disembark in the Shellharbour area, continuing instead to Kiama and beyond.15

5 2. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WOOD Red cedar (Cedrela toona ciliata) was one of the most widely Colonial administration, its control did not extend to the Illawarra distributed and useful timbers in Eastern . With a natural and they were forced to admit that there were a number of “illegal distribution from Ulladulla in the south to the northern tip of the residents” in the Illawarra “... cutting down, sawing and clandestinely continent, it provided colonists across transmitting from thence large Quantities the eastern seaboard with their houses, of Cedar and other timber, the property of furniture, wagons and other useful the Crown.” It was pointed out that this implements. A lofty tree reaching 150 practice was in direct violation of the Colonial feet (45m) the astringent bark was also a Regulations, prejudiced the revenue and, valuable remedy for fevers and dysentery most alarmingly, “... encouraged desertion and could be used to cure leather (resulting from the public service.” In order to control in a dark purplish hue). The large sprays of the cedar (and general timber) industry (and flowers also yielded a rich dye and the root presumably to curtail the defection of public bark was said to be a powerful narcotic. servants) it became a prosecutable offence The Illawarra was particularly abundant in to be found in possession of cedar, cutting it cedar, providing the perfect humid climate or removing it in the district of Illawarra.2 between the ranges and the sea and to the first Europeans the giant cedar forests In 1821 William Charles Wentworth became seemed limitless. the first official cedar getter in Shellharbour Known as “poolai” to the Wadi Wadi, cedar when he was granted the rights to cut timber was every bit as useful to the indigenous between Mount Terry and the Minnamurra people of Shellharbour as it would be to the River. However, local legend suggests that first European settlers and was exploited for Captain Nicholls was piloting a schooner in much the same reason - its attractiveness and out of Lake Illawarra with illegal cedar and usefulness. James Meehan was the cargoes as early as 1810.3 John Pugh first European to note the presence of cedar in Illawarra cedar forest, Conrad Martens Nicholls was installed as manager of Wentworth’s the Illawarra, near Pig Island, in 1805. The first cedar cutting operations, based at Shellharbour. shipment of cedar from the south coast occurred in December 1811 He, along with most other cutters, complained strenuously about when the Speedwell took a cargo of cedar from Shoalhaven to the regulations, which appeared to founded as much on fear of a Sydney.1 lost Government fortune as prejudice against the men who risked their lives to bring the cedar out. The cedar getters developed a At this time (and indeed up until 1821) it was illegal to cut cedar, reputation for hard living, hard drinking and questionable proclivities the trees (and land) being Crown property. Unfortunately for the fuelled by the Government’s proclamation that:

6 cleared. The cedar-bearing lands rose gradually from the sea to a ... vice of the most abominable kinds was practised amongst these very considerable elevation, and were bounded by rocky precipices; cedar hordes, to the total annihilation of every correct principle.4 the surface was uneven and cut up by numerous small valleys, each having small streams running through them.7 Whether this reputation was deserved is still open to debate but there is no doubt that it was a rough life and that the men lived The principle cedar grounds were at Kiama, but there were active without the softening influence of women for long stretches. With cedar grounds around Shellharbour and Minnamurra as well, little other diversion available when night fell, it is not surprising including Wentworth’s operations already mentioned. Interestingly, that the main evening activity was drinking. Complaints about the Wentworth’s cutting operation in the Shellharbour district predates behaviour of the cedar getters became so numerous that in 1827 the first cutting license in the Wollongong district by some 14 Captain Bishop was appointed magistrate and commandant of the years suggesting that the Shellharbour cedar grounds were more Illawarra in order to: profitable at this time (or that Shellharbour cutters were more law abiding than their Wollongong counterparts). Indeed the ... protect the settlers ... from pillage and the depredations of the Bushrangers and vagabonds of every description who infest it [and] Wollongong cedar grounds were dismissed by Oxley as being of to see that no cedar is taken from the Government Reserves except by “trifling consequence” (although they were being illegally exploited persons duly authorised ...5 as early as 1821).8

It is unclear who, exactly, was making all these complaints, Physically, it was a tough life not only because of the sheer size and particularly as the district was rather sparsely populated. The weight of the trees, but the impenetrable nature of the forest, which nightly carousing of the cedar getters must have been positively first had to be cleared. A run was established by clearing vines and riotous to impinge upon the tranquil enjoyment of the locality by the undergrowth to allow for a clear fall. The fallen trunks were cut into other settlers. It seems likely that the complaints issuing forth from 12 foot lengths and the sections were then taken to the sawpit and residents of Shellharbour were based on a deliberate campaign to cut into planks. The sawpits were about 10 feet deep - to allow evict the cedar getters and annex their cutting grounds for personal for the full length of the saw on the downward stroke - cut into the profit. Not surprisingly, applications for permission to cut cedar forest floor. The planks were balanced on wooden beams above became so numerous that Bishop couldn’t cope, and Surveyor- the pit and one sawyer stood on the plank whilst his mate stood General Oxley was despatched to examine the “unlocated Crown at the bottom of the pit. A third member of the team knocked in a lands” on which the applicants wished to cut timber.6 wedge to hasten the sawing.9 The three men working in concert could cut as much as 2,000 feet of timber in a normal working week Oxley’s report of December 1826 provides us with some of the best and their world was circumscribed by the monotonous rasp of the surviving descriptions of the district in this period, and the cedar saw and the arc of sky wheeling above the pit. getting industry. He depicts a heavily wooded landscape with: The cedar cutters and operators formed a world of their own, segregated into three distinct classes. The first class were Sydney ... brush land, so interwoven with vines, fig trees and cabbage palms residents who employed sawyers to cut for them and who obtained as to be impenetrable for horsemen, without a track first being the rights to cut from a specified area. They owned wagons and

7 employed teams of men to shift the cut from the cutting grounds to When Macquarie toured the Illawarra district in 1822 he was awed the nearest port and also owned large ships to transport the timber by the sheer size of the cedar trees: to Sydney. When their own sawyers couldn’t meet the demand, they purchased cut cedar from other sawyers. The second class I had one noble cedar tree measured on this mountain which measured consisted of the sawyers themselves, most of whom cut for the 21 feet (6.4m) in circumference and 120 feet (36.6m) in height; the size Sydney operators or to anyone else who would purchase from of it being greater, and the tree itself a finer one than I had ever seen before. The part of it which measured 21 feet (6m) in circumference them. They lived in the midst of the cedar grounds, moving only was 10 feet (3m) from the root of it, and continued to be of the same when the supply of timber had been exhausted. The third class size for 60 feet (18.3m) above the ground.12 consisted of men who owned and ran the carts and teams that hauled the cedar from the pits to the loading points, but otherwise By the 1850s these giants of the forest had been ruthlessly felled had no interest in the cedar itself; they were effectively running a and the cedar forests of Shellharbour (and the Illawarra) had all 10 highly specialised haulage business. but vanished. Cedar getting as an industry virtually ceased and even today the cedar stands have not recovered. Although cedar The landed cost of cutting and transporting cedar to Sydney as a species still exists in the district, they are isolated stands and came to around 18 shillings and fourpence per 100 feet of cut individual trees within a more diverse forest mix, and the soaring timber. The haulage operators benefited least from the process, trees of Macquarie’s time are no longer in evidence. Stands can making only 2 to 3 shillings per 100 feet of timber, whereas the still be found in the foothills of the Macquarie Range, on Macquarie cedar ship operators were making nearly four times as much for Pass itself and in isolated pockets around Croome as well as transport from Shellharbour to Sydney. Unfortunately for many of “The Whispering Gallery.” What was thought to be an infinitely the men involved, they were principally paid in spirits, clothing and exploitable resource turned out to be very finite; the cedar getters provisions, so there was little opportunity for advancement or even simply abandoned their camps, turned away from the pits and left leaving the industry. Rum payments added to the cedar-getters’ the forest to its lingering silence. reputations as a rowdy and ill-behaved mob, as one visitor to the district in the 1820s noted:

... [there] might be seen, sometimes half a dozen groups, each gathered round a keg of rum, often of ten, seldom less than five gallons ... a more unlicensed and reckless mob than was thus sometimes gathered on that lonely beach, prolonging day into night in their carousel until all the liquor was gone, it would be impossible to find anywhere. The bushrangers were often mingled with the boisterous assembly, and took their tithe of the revelry; the police at this time rarely penetrated hither in search of them.11

8 3. FROM FOREST TO FARM The Municipality of Shellharbour was declared in 1859 but honour in 1816 and visited Johnston’s farm, known variously as European settlement of the area occurred well in advance of that Johnston’s Meadows and Macquarie’s Gift on the rich northern flats date with the pioneers being unconcerned by such trifling details of . By this time land bounded on the north by Lake as shire boundaries. To European sensibilities it was an appealing Illawarra and Macquarie River and on the south by the Minnamurra landscape of rolling hills clothed with emerald pastures and River had been granted to D’Arcy Wentworth, James Mileham, luscious meadow flats hemmed in on the east by the rugged coast John Horsley, Surveyor Ralph and Lieutenant Colonel Thomas and on the west by the towering escarpment. The foothills of the Davey.4 In 1839, a 1280 acre grant was made to Isabella Croker, Macquarie Ranges were still enclosed by cedar forests melting into eventually becoming the village of Croome. the enfolding rainforest and on the flats the cabbage palms reared their unruly heads against a sky of piercing blue. It is interesting to see how many Sydney notables (and their offspring) were receiving land grants in the district at this time, In 1816 Governor Macquarie ordered Surveyor-General Oxley to a common pattern at the time to the north and south of Sydney. meet with the cattlemen grazing their herds in the Illawarra. The Generally, this pattern of grant resulted in intensive pastoral or meeting took place in that most pivotal of locations – Joe Wild’s agricultural activity but little actual settlement, as the grants were not Hut – for the purpose of negotiating free land grants.1 The first of generally occupied by these gentlemen whose principal interests these grants was made on 24th January 1817 to David Allan, who lay closer to the centre of Colonial power. Unfortunately, history received 2200 acres on the southern shores of Tom Thumb Lagoon, has mostly recorded the names of the noteworthy grantees, not the known as Illawarra Farm. Further grants along Lake Illawarra and anonymous stockmen and labourers who were actually responsible around were made to Robert Jenkins, Richard for establishing and developing pastoralism in the district. Brooks, George Johnston Senior and Andrew Allan.2 Allan’s grant was managed on his behalf by a stockman, who cleared 150 of the The free land grant system was an interesting one and largely 700 acres and ran 35 cattle and 606 sheep on what is now Albion responsible for placing the vast pastoral wealth of the Colony in Park Aerodrome. A mere youth of 16 and a government clerk at the hands of a very few “gentlemen”, many of whom had little or no the time, Allan had benefited enormously by being the son of the experience at farming. They relied heavily on managers, overseers Deputy Commissioner General.3 and stockmen to manage their interests. The procedure for obtaining a grant was fairly simple. Between 1817 and 1831 one had only to Oxley, accompanied by Meehan, returned in December 1819 and make an application to the Governor, who based his decision on the explored the coast further south to Jervis Bay. They noted a “… applicant’s perceived ability to develop the grant (and frequently his small salt water creek called by the natives Meme mora …” – the connections to the Governor and his inner circle). If the application – and laid out grants for Samuel Terry, Thomas was successful, a “promise of grant was made”, followed by a site Hobby and David Johnston. When Macquarie visited the Illawarra survey, which established the grant boundaries and area. The time in January 1822 he travelled as far south as the river named in his between a promise and actual issuing of the grant could be many

9 years – entire governorships could change in the interim – and until follows: 1861 it was possible to still lay claim to a promised grant, made by one Governor and have it issued by another. After 1861 unclaimed We were up by daybreak, worked for about 2 hours, and then had our grants were declared void and, and not surprisingly, 1861 was a breakfast, which was of damper, salt pork fried, and good tea … After boom year for the issuing of grants, including D’Arcy Wentworth’s breakfast we pelted away again till twelve o’clock and then had dinner, which was damper, pork and tea again, and laid down till the heat of 2000 acres in Terragong Parish (Portion 17) which had been the day was over, which was about three o’clock … we then worked promised in 1824 but was finally issued just as this loophole closed for another hour, had a lunch of damper, and tea, and pork and then forever.5 knocked along till night. About 8pm we had our supper, pork, tea and damper, and soon after 9 were under the blankets.7 Of course, waiting for a grant to be issued did not preclude In this manner Shellharbour was tamed. The land clearance property owners and managers from taking up land based on programs served a dual purpose – in the first instance, any usable the Governor’s “promise.” By 1819 Wentworth, who had been timber – especially cedar – was cut for commercial gain and shipped particularly generously endowed with land by Macquarie, was to Sydney and often to England. The secondary purpose was to shipping cattle from his Peterborough Estate, known as Yerrowah clear the way for agriculture and pastoral activity, but the forest (and later known as Shellharbour). The clearance of this land by was so dense that several parties could be working simultaneously largely anonymous stockmen was no mean feat, as the country without ever meeting one another. The same anonymous writer consisted almost entirely of impenetrable vegetation. In 1823, on provides a vivid insight into the landscape behind Shellharbour: a horseback journey from Five Islands to the Shoalhaven, Barron Field picked his way along a track through “… a mass of vegetation requiring pioneers to penetrate it…” and in 1827 Peter Cunningham described it as a forest of “... ferns, cedar, cabbage trees and creeping vines.”6

In the 1820s and 1830s life along the Macquarie River was a monotonous cycle of land clearance and building punctuated by tea breaks and perhaps the most tedious diet ever experienced in the Colony. The first attempts to carve out a life amongst the enclosing forest must have, at times, seemed entirely futile. One tradesman, after walking from Sydney to “Yallah Lake” found, on his arrival, stockmen battling to keep cattle inside unfenced runs and the resident family living “… under a few sheets of bark, leaned together, top to top, tent-like.” It was the crudest form of living and the transformation of this wilderness into a compliant pastoral Clearing the forest at Tongarra in the 1860s. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). paradise was backbreaking work. A typical day was described as

10 The spot where we pitched our tent was a small grassy forest on Large Estates and Small the hill side; and everywhere around it, down below in the endless ravines, and up above towards the insurmountable heights of the By 1829 most of the land grants in Shellharbour were under the range, was thick tangled brush growing amidst lofty trees, so thick control of four families: the Wentworths, Johnstons, Terry/Hughes set that beneath them was perpetual shadow, or rather something and Osbornes. By far the largest of these was the Wentworth’s more gloomy still. The ground was covered with decaying leaves and Peterborough Estate on the southern shores of Lake Illawarra and old water-logged windfall trees, so rotten that the foot could break north of the Minnamurra River and totalling 14,050 acres. its way deep into the substance of that gnarled wood which at one time would have stopped a cannon ball. Wherever you went creeks of crystal ice-like water, plunging down the The Wentworth patriarch, D’Arcy, mountain-side, each in its stony bed, kept was a colourful figure who had been a murmur day and night; never changing indicted and acquitted three times of save when increased by rains into the roar 8 highway robbery on Hounslow Heath of a torrent. (an entirely recreational pursuit, as A typical Shellharbour house of the Wentworth was well-connected and period was constructed by setting 10 independently wealthy). Having earlier foot posts into holes in the ground. earned a medical degree, Wentworth Along the ground between the posts and prudently secured a commission as a across the tops were laid ground and First Fleet surgeon on the Neptune, wall plates with squared sides facing announcing his imminent departure at each other and grooved to receive the his last robbery trial. Upon his arrival ends of the slabs, which were 8 feet in Australia, Wentworth was sent to long and split with a maul. The roof was Norfolk Island and spent the ensuing covered with bark and the floorboards years shuttling between the Island and were usually 6 inches wide and 1 inch the mainland serving as Surgeon and thick. Squares of around 2 feet were left Superintendent of Convicts. He earned open for windows and chimneys were These unknown settlers were typical of the early clearing lease farmers of the Shellharbour Municipality. (Shellharbour Images, a reputation for humane treatment of his of rough stone with a large flagstone SCC, c.1859). charges but was not above exploiting base for baking on. For their time, they the system to his own ends and in 1807 were solidly built and superior to early settler housing elsewhere of was suspended from duties for sending hospital patients to work the period, which did not have the benefit of hard floors or proper on his farm. Benevolent historians have sometimes cooking hearths.9 Homes such as this were built on the runs of the interpreted this as the Colony’s first attempt at occupational therapy, first grantees whose properties were stocked with the cattle that but the central administration took a sterner view. Continually at would lay the foundation for the district’s dairy industry. odds with the irascible Governor Bligh (who kept him at Norfolk Island as much as possible) Wentworth’s troubles ended with the appointment of Macquarie. Wrongly believing Wentworth to be

11 a reformed convict, Macquarie lauded him as an example of the serious man who valued military discipline above all, Johnston benefits of the convict system and showered him with land grants never resided at his Shellharbour grant but left the running of his and government appointments, including head of the Sydney police estate to his son David. Subsequent grants totalling 1300 acres force, which gave him wide magisterial powers.10 adjacent to Macquarie’s Gift were issued to David and known as Johnston’s Meadows. Following Johnston Senior’s death in 1823, By 1828, the Peterborough Estate was running 1600 head of cattle the estates were managed solely by David who put considerable under the management of John Dungan (a free settler), with the effort into breeding and improving Shorthorn dairy cattle.12 David assistance of Hugh Kennedy (also was eventually succeeded by his brother-in-law Captain Weston a free settler) and William Platt (an who continued to breed dairy cattle but also moved into race-horse assigned convict). A stockade and hut breeding. The Estate came to be known as “Weston’s Meadows” were built at Barrack Point and placed and remained in the Weston/Johnston family until 1952.13 under the charge of John Webster (another assigned convict). By the time Rivalling the Wentworth estate in influence, if not in size, was of his death in 1827 Wentworth was the 5300-acre Terry/Hughes estate at Albion Park and Tongarra. the largest landholder in the Colony Samuel Terry, a man who never did anything by halves, was and had acquired all the available land transported for stealing 400 pairs of stockings (presumably not grants between Lake Illawarra and the for personal use). As a convict, he seems to have kept a low Minnamurra River. He left his Illawarra profile, biding his time in the system Estate in trust for five of his children until he could earn his ticket-of-leave. (Martha, Sophia, Robert, Mary Anne Terry’s first business venture as a free and Catherine) and within a year of his man was a combined store, pawnshop death the Estate had been augmented and drinking palace in Parramatta; this An undated silhouette of DʼArcy by the purchase of a 2200 acre estate salubrious establishment set the tone for Wentworth. (Shellharbour on the northern side of Lake Illawarra Terry’s future business dealings which Images, SCC). (purchased by Wentworth’s eldest always dwelt on the dubious side of the son, William Charles, from Richard Jones and originally granted to law. Terry’s sole motivation in life was David Allan).11 the acquisition of money, and lots of it, and he was widely regarded as a mean Despite their stranglehold on the district, the Wentworth’s were not and greedy man whose motto in life was the only landholders and others, equally as wealthy and influential, to never “… give value without obtaining joined them. Notable amongst them was the humourless Scot, value for it and then only as much as to Major George Johnston, whose 1500-acre grant on the northern keep your neck out of the rope and your The Peterborough Estate 14 bank of Macquarie Rivulet was a “gift” from Macquarie in return legs out of the chains.” in 1920. (Shellharbour for Johnston’s imprisonment of Bligh during the 1804 mutiny. A Images, SCC).

12 By 1808 he had acquired a store in Pitt Street, a farm on the tie to Terry by marrying Terry’s step-daughter, Esther Marsh. A Hawkesbury and a wife in the form of the widow Rosetta Marsh, successful cattleman, Hughes owned some 20 cattle stations whose reputation for shrewdness was equalled only by Terry’s. She throughout the Colony and following Terry’s death in 1838, inherited persuaded Terry to sell his Parramatta store and buy a hotel in Pitt the Terry’s Meadow’s estate, increasing his Shellharbour holdings Street, which rapidly became the meeting place for all the Colony’s to 5300 acres.16 small and aspiring settlers and the base for Terry’s lucrative money lending business. In a stroke of rapacious genius, Terry devised a system whereby patrons were encouraged to run up large liquor

“Tongarra” grant of John Terry Hughes. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, 1980).

“The Meadows” grant of Samuel Terry. (Shellharbour Images, Other notable settlers included Dr James Mileham, whose 600-acre Scc, 1980). grant to the south of Lake Illawarra was eventually absorbed into the Wentworth Estate (along with many other small grants). The bills that they could not possibly hope to pay, and then forced them first free settler to actually take up residence on his grant was Henry to assign their land grants to Terry in settlement of their debts. It Osborne, who arrived in the Colony in 1829. A piercingly handsome was in this manner that Terry acquired his Shellharbour grant and man, Osborne would shortly become the only Irish settler in a between 1817 and 1820 he held 20% of all the mortgages in the community of Scots. He named his grant Marshall Mount in honour Colony, even more than the Bank of NSW (of which he was also a of his wife (Sarah Marshall) and in 1839 built the first residence 15 5% shareholder). on the property – a timber house overlooking the spreading green valley and meandering river. This early home was quickly replaced It is not known who managed Terry’s Shellharbour estate, but it by a more substantial homestead of stone and brick with fine cedar seems most likely that his nephew John T. Hughes (who had his joinery. Osborne, along with David Johnston, would play a seminal own 1200-acre estate at Tongarra) would have jointly managed role in the breeding of dairy cattle and the establishment of the dairy the properties. Hughes had wisely cemented his already strong industry in Shellharbour and along the Illawarra coastline.17

13 The Osborne Family which eventually stretched from Mullet Creek to Macquarie In 1785, when the Beauchamp Committee in London first proposed Rivulet, from Lake Illawarra to the mountains and encompassed to establish a penal colony at Botany Bay, their primary motivation the mountain slopes south of (at ) and Kangaroo was to rid England of a sizable population of unwanted convicts. Valley. Throughout the 1830s and 1840s the Osbornes absorbed Secondary to this was the establishment of an outpost of the British land from Charles Throsby Smith and William Browne amongst 19 Empire, ever-expanding the Empire’s dominions. To make this others. happen, the Committee was looking for a population of energetic and morally upstanding yeoman to form the basis of the new Henry and Sarah made their home at Marshall Mount, managing community. Henry and Sarah Osborne were exactly the sort of their estates from this central location; by the 1840s the Osbornes people the Beauchamp Committee was searching for.18 also had extensive land holdings in the Riverina including the 480,000 acre squatting run Brookong Station. Back at Marshall Mount, Sarah Osborne proved to be as tireless as her husband, raising 537/538 14 children, managing the homestead and running a Sunday School (undoubtedly largely attended by her own offspring). In addition to his pastoral activities, Henry was a prominent figure in all local affairs, serving as Member for the Illawarra from 1851 to 1856 and as a Justice Henry and Sarah Osborne of Marshall Mount. (Shellharbour Images, of the Peace. Osborne SCC, no date). died in 1859 and his Born around 1803 in County Tyrone, Ireland, Henry Osborne would estate was divided prove to be a tireless pastoralist and procreator. Accompanied amongst his many by his wife, Osborne immigrated to Australia in September 1828. children, with one The Osborne Family. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, Shortly after his arrival Osborne applied for and received a land of the younger sons no date). grant of 2560 acres (the abovementioned Marshall Mount). From taking over Marshall this humble beginning, the Osborne’s would build their empire,

14 Mount. Sarah, bereft by Henry’s passing, sailed for England, where out under Mitchell’s direction, extending from Wollongong, crossing she lived until her death in 1873 and by 1890 the Illawarra estate the Macquarie Rivulet, entering the flats of Terry’s Meadows and had been broken up and sold into many hands.20 passing to the west of the mountains before quitting on the flats by Foster’s Range. It reached the Minnamurra River, opposite Hyam’s Tracks through Shellharbour Station, but did not extend to Kiama.22 At about the time that the In the 1840s, travellers moving southward from Wollongong had first Osborne’s were carving a niche to swim their horses through the in the forest for themselves, shallow waters of Lake Illawarra wider exploration and mapping before commencing on the track of the Shellharbour district was past Shellharbour to Locking continuing. Maps from the Hill and beyond. The journey 1830s show very few tracks and from Wollongong to Jamberoo certainly no roads, so life for the through Terry’s Meadows Osborne’s was considerably was described in detail by the more isolated that one might biologist and staunch Darwinian suppose from the extent of T.H. Huxley, who was taken to their holdings. The absence live on a farm at Jamberoo as of officially noted tracks does a boy: 1261 not necessarily mean that the Osborne’s and their counterparts From Wollongong to Jamberoo had no way of getting about – it is the road was a mere dray track through a forest of tropical clear that they did; merely that it foliage; gum trees 200 feet was extremely difficult. The first or more in height, gigantic land grants in the district were indiarubber [sic] trees with broad not marked on a published map Marshall Mount House, home of the Osborne family. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, shiny dark green leaves, lofty until 1827 when Robert Dixon’s 1980). cabbage palms and many another kind of tree towered above us so 21 Map of the Colony of New South Wales was issued. that their tops made a twilight canopy impenetrable to the sunlight, save for an infrequent clearing in the forest made by the settler’s axe. The name Shellharbour appeared for the first time on an 1832 Huge lianas, some as thick as a man’s arm, hung down snake-like from map by Surveyor Elliott. Unmarked tracks developed in a chaotic the trees. Magnificent ferns, clinging to the fork or trunk and branches fashion to facilitate the transport of goods to and from the district. were pointed out to me …23 The Osborne’s used a track over the Stony Range to Shellharbour; W.C. Wentworth’s men used a track from Jamberoo to carry timber His mother, a “…slender brunette of emotional temperament …” was to the Shellharbour jetty. The only properly marked track was laid apparently so disappointed with the countryside that she lamented

15 “… with tears the day she ever left England.”24 Most of these families in Sydney.27 Subsequent trips saw the Australian Scottish early settlers concentrated on clearing the forests to encourage community growing steadily and in 1837 Lang settled 14 Scottish the growth of more grass for grazing, but quickly found that their families on the eastern portion of the Peterborough estate. Between numbers were too few and the forest too vast. It would take two 1838 and 1841 more families followed and most took up work on great social experiments to augment the population sufficiently to the large estates including Terry’s Meadows, Marshall Mount and make a real impact on the landscape. more at Peterborough. These families, the Russells, Beatson’s and McQuilter’s amongst them, played a seminal role in the Rev J.D. Lang & the Scottish Families agricultural development of the district as they supplied the labour had a finger in most pies in colonial New South force necessary to bring the district under cultivation. Eventually, Wales. He arrived in 1823, a young Presbyterian minister in search these families acquired farms of their of a pulpit. Fifty years later his funeral befitted a founding father not own and a cloak of neatly fenced and only of the Presbyterian Church in Australia, but of the nation itself. cleared paddocks spread its mantle He established the Scots Church and his own secondary school, over Shellharbour and Albion Park.28 the Australian College. A populist politician whose republican and democrat leanings strengthened during a quarter-century Caroline Chisholm’s Great in the Legislative Council, Lang also found the time to run three Experiment newspapers. He circled the globe eight times; one of his many Caroline Jones was born into a missions was to recruit clerics, along with respectable tradesmen philanthropic farming family in 1808; and small farmers from the British Isles - anywhere but “Papist her early experiences would colour Ireland”. An indefatigable pamphleteer and self-promoter, he wrote her own attitude to people and set a book or two during most voyages and produced a seemingly her on a path of helping anyone who endless stream of monographs and essays.25 needed it. Following her marriage to Archibald Chisholm in 1830, Volatile and vindictive with a head of hair to befit a mad scientist, the couple spent time in India and Janet Beatson, the daughter of Lang loved a fight, answered only to God and was never still. John and Mary Beatson. Born in Caroline established a “… school of Towards the end of a life peppered with church rifts, he was locked 1856 at Albion Park she worked, industry” for the children of soldiers out of the very church he had built. The financial dealings of this along with her family on a dairy stationed at Madras. By 1840 the fierce preacher of moral rectitude were labyrinthine and shady. They farm. (Shellharbour Images, Chisholms were settled at Windsor, twice landed him in gaol - as did a willingness to libel opponents. SCC, no date). NSW, and Archibald had been Yet he was a hero to ordinary workers and a perceptive critic of the recalled to India, leaving Caroline with a large store of energy and treatment of Aboriginal people.26 no master of the house to contain it. She embarked on a program of befriending female immigrants and settling them into proper jobs Lang was first successful in enticing Scottish families to NSW and homes throughout the Colony.29 in 1831, when he arrived with 100 Scottish mechanics and their In 1841 she persuaded Governor Gipps to give her a government

16 building for use as an immigrants home and she promptly left instruct the settlers on land clearance and pasturing techniques.31 her family at Windsor and moved into the home. From there she Every one of these small farms was successful and provided a real personally took parties of girls to branch homes at Campbelltown, impetus for further settlement. From the lofty vantage point of a Maitland, Liverpool, Parramatta and Port Macquarie, settling them century later, Sir Joseph Carruthers remarked that: as servants with farmers and squatters. Over the following six years Chisholm personally settled 11,000 people all over NSW, Works such as this great and an astonishing feat for one woman of limited means, at a time noble woman did ought never be when women had no political voice or influence beyond the merely forgotten, least of all in places like Shellharbour where she did so much social.30 for settlement.32 In 1843 Chisholm convinced Robert Towns (married to Sophia Chisholm’s scheme took advantage Wentworth and part owner of the Peterborough estate) to donate of the clearing lease system that 4000 acres of the estate for the settlement of immigrants. This commenced in 1843. Clearing leases 956 was not Town’s first attempt consisted of no more than 30 acres, at a philanthropic exercise; in generally excised from a much larger 1836 he was responsible for grant, given to immigrant settlers the settlement of 14 agricultural rent -free for 6 years. In return, the families under the Dunmore settlers cleared the land of scrub and Lang scheme, also on the cabbage trees and erected houses (however rudimentary). The system Matthew Dorrough arrived in Peterborough estate. Naturally, Sydney with his wife, Martha Towns (and the Wentworth family) continued well into the 1870s and Jane and family in 1842 aboard benefited by having their land benefited both parties, resulting the “Broom”, as part of Caroline cleared and made productive, in the progressive and orderly Chisholmʼs immigrant settlement so his purpose was perhaps improvement of land for agricultural scheme. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, 1890). not entirely altruistic. However, purposes and the development of Chisholm’s purpose was pure small communities. By 1851 the town of Shell Harbour (subdivided and in December 1843 she set from the Peterborough estate) was recognised as a separate and sail from Sydney to Shellharbour distinct element, although it was still frequently referred to as with 23 families totalling 240 Peterborough, and contained few buildings. It was not so much the people to settle at Peterborough. nucleus of a formal settlement as the nucleus for the possibility of Towns provided rations for the one. It was not until 1885 that the authorities finally caught up and group for 5 months, engaged a gazetted Shell Harbour as a named village and by that time it was 33 Caroline Chisholm, c.1860. schoolmaster to open a school a small but bustling trade centre. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). and employed two bushmen to

17 Land clearance continued at an ever-increasing pace throughout the 1840s, 1850s and 1860s, largely through the system of clearing leases. Wheat, potatoes, dairy and other farm produce all began to appear and agricultural improvement accelerated with the expiration of leases on the big estates. The first to subdivide was Isabella Croker’s Croome estate, which was divided into 16 farms Duncan Beatson (left) was born at Terryʼs Meadows, in 1840. In 1857 the Towns, Darley and Hollings estates were Albion Park on the 5th subdivided into 80 small farms of 50 to 120 acres each, offered for February, 1848. (Shellharbour sale in the first half of 1858.34 Images, SCC, no date).

The lands immediately around Shellharbour were not the only ones to be broken up in this manner. Terry’s Meadows was taken over by John Terry Hughes (whom we last met marrying Samuel Terry’s daughter) and managed variously by Duncan Beatson and Andrew McGill (who had emigrated under the Dunmore Lang scheme). Hughes renamed the estate Albion Park, although the name did not come into common usage until the village first began to appear in 1854, with the establishment of a pound; a post office followed in 1861. Hughes died in 1851 and the estate passed to his son, Samuel Terry Hughes, who continued until his own death in 1865. Hughes Jnr was clearly no idler and had the same acquisitiveness for wealth as his grandfather, for during his tenure he subdivided William Timbs (right) was the entire 3,600 acres into 48 farms ranging in size from 20 to born 10th April, 1804 at 150 acres. Many of the purchasers were “clearing lease men” Buckinghamshire, England and such as Ebenezer Russell, Alexander McGill, Charles McKenzie, married Martha Pittam in 1824. They migrated to Australia and William and Alexander Fraser (all part of the Dunmore Lang with their five children in 1839. venture). The last Crown Land in the parish of Terragong was William and his son, Gabriel were alienated in 1856, bringing all the available land into production.35 employed by Henry Osborne at Marshall Mount. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, c.1870).

18 4. KING MICKEY The indigenous prehistory of the Shellharbour City area has been reported and cultural life. Reports from early settlers note no serious and studied elsewhere and will not be considered in depth here. This section conflicts but comment on the large numbers of people and camps will focus on the historical interaction between the European colonists and the as well as expressing amazement (coloured by the usual European Aboriginal community. misconceptions) at some of their cultural practices: The Wadi Wadi tribe of the Thurawal people occupied the Illawarra in both prehistoric times and after European colonisation. Living “The blacks were very numerous, and fish in the river were plentiful. The blacks used to put a weir of rushes across in family groups within their tribal territory, the river, with a curve at the end, which would be (thought to extend between Picton, left open. When the tide was running out the fish Bungonia, the and would go up stream and return when the tide was Stanwell Park), the group were semi- coming in, when the curve would be closed, and nomadic hunter-gatherers, preferring the a string of bushes put in to enclose them. Then a few sturdy blacks would go in and throw the fish rock shelters of the highlands during the out. It was believed that these blacks had been winter months and spending the summer known to have eaten white men.”2 months on the coastal plains. There was little need for extensive movement It should be noted that there is no foundation in the Illawarra as Nature ensured the for the accusations of cannabilism against local community never had to travel far the Wadi Wadi; this was a common fear to reach food or water; they just had to amongst Europeans at the time, based on move often enough to allow the area to ignorance and superstition. There are a regenerate for their next visit. The Wadi few reports from the Shellharbour locality Wadi left middens of garbage near their of Aboriginal contact with the European Aboriginal camp at Minnamurra c.1890. (Weston Collection, campsites along the coast and estuaries th Shellharbour Images, SCC). settlers in the 19 century. Most meetings which have unlocked the secrets of their seem to have been fairly benign with the lifestyle including what they ate, where they lived and the size Aboriginal groups in the Shellharbour area assisting settlers, pointing of their groups. Lake Illawarra was the focus of summer life, as in the direction of fresh water and bartering or swapping food, which well as Bass Point, which was a major campsite and fishing area fostered general good will. Despite such peaceful relations, the for the last 6,000 years (after the coastline settled into its present majority of the indigenous population retreated from the district configuration); it is recognised as a nationally significant Aboriginal when the Europeans arrived. Made to feel like trespassers on their 1 place on the Register of the National Estate. tribal lands, they found themselves living in an alien imperialist system they did not understand. Some chose to move, some Aboriginal people were numerous in the Illawarra – food and water to stay, working as stockmen on rural properties. Some lived in was plentiful, which facilitated the development of a rich spiritual

19 communities on the outskirts of European settlements - there was further south along the coast known as the Coolangatta. The rival a camp at Minnamurra in the 1890s - but these were simply the tribes met at Albion Park Rail to settle their differences, squaring remaining few that had survived the toll of European disease and up near the site of the station building for a battle that eventually inter-tribal warfare. By 1896 there were only 33 known Wadi Wadi took the life of Hooka. King Hooka was buried where Hooka Creek in the Shellharbour area.3 Road meets Lake Illawarra.5

The earliest recorded formal contact King Hooka was not the only local between local Europeans and monarch. The practice of crowning Aboriginals occurred in January a local tribal elder or leader as “King” 1858 at the annual meeting of the of his tribe was a common practice Presbyterian Sunday School, at the throughout Australia in the 19th century Shellharbour Manse. A group of and was undertaken to secure the Aboriginal people are said to have “… goodwill of the tribe and to ensure that watched with interest the enjoyments the white community had a friendly of civilisation”. They must have point of contact with the Aboriginal found the proceedings intriguing community. A ceremony was although history does not record undertaken by local white authorities their reactions. The opportunity to in which a brass plate was conferred participate probably did not present to an elder on which was inscribed itself that day, but it certainly did later the English word “King”, followed by when they joined in some typical “King Mickey” and “Queen Rosie” before their crowning, c.1890. the Aboriginal leader’s name, often European pastimes, including cricket. (Weston Collection, Shellharbour Images, SCC). an anglicised version of the Aboriginal Reports of Aboriginal people fielding name or an English nickname. This cricket teams to play against Europeans became a common practice that seems so patronising today does not seem to have occurrence in the Shellharbour area.4 been rejected by the Aboriginal community of the time as many accepted the crowning and largely fulfilled its purpose in early Nineteenth century reports of contact between European settlers diplomatic relations. and the Wadi Wadi are varied, but generally suggest a respect for the Wadi Wadi and their life skills by the Colonists. In 1879 the Wadi Prominent in Shellharbour was King Mickey and his wife, Queen Wadi were lauded as saviours when they assisted the captain and Rosie – the most famous of their tribe. In 1896 King Mickey, said crew ashore from the wreck of the Bertha. Interestingly, although to be the last leader of the Wadi Wadi, was crowned by Archibald relations between the early settlers and Wadi Wadi appear to have Campbell M.P., and given his brass plate, (complete with chain so been peaceful, inter-tribal relations were less harmonious. King that it could be hung about the neck). Locally renowned in the Hooka’s mob from Lake Illawarra were friendly with the European 1860s, King Mickey and Rosie were well-liked local figures known settlers, which caused a stir between King Hooka and a horde from to many Europeans. Rosie was named queen after her husband’s

20 coronation and was a caring woman who is remembered for her special relationship with Sam and Chloe Atchison of Bass Point, to whom she would take sick Wadi Wadi to receive medical attention.6 The Osbornes of Marshall Mount also had a good relationship with a group of local Aboriginal people who camped opposite the school each summer. The Osbornes gave gifts of fruit and meat at Christmas further cementing friendships.7

Another famous Aboriginal person in Shellharbour was self-proclaimed medico, Dr. Ellis, an educated man “King Mickey” after he was crowned who spoke English well and was in 1896. a perfect European gentleman in manner and dress. Early residents knew that the Aboriginal population of the locality manoeuvred easily from highlands to coastal plain following a track from Berrima through a break in the cliffs at the head of Macquarie Rivulet. Dr. Ellis is credited as the guide who took a group of Shellharbour aldermen over along the route of the current road in the late 19th century.8 The crowing of “King Mickey” Johnston in 1896. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

21 5. UP THE PASS The search for an “easy” passage up the was used a network of tracks to fraught with difficulty and disappointment. The lip of the escarpment facilitate trade and cultural seemed to form an impenetrable barrier to travel between the coast exchange. Farmers clinging to and the highlands. To stand on the edge of the plateau looking the precipitous shoulders of the seawards was to stand on the edge of an abyss; to stand on the mountain watched with chagrin coastal plain looking up was dishearteningly dizzy. The top of the as their indigenous neighbours escarpment was often lost in mist, further heightening the illusion flitted through the forest on paths of an insurmountable obstacle. Nature seemed to be stating with invisible to European eyes. It unequivocal firmness, “You can’t come up here.” But from the very seemed natural that as the earliest European settlement of the area, men were drawn to the pioneers became accustomed possibilities of travel over the top.1 to their new environment, they would begin to utilise these same paths.2 In time, Macquarie Pass would become the main link between the coastal plain and the rich pastures of the highlands above. It would have a profound impact on the development of Part of Ben Rixonʼs original Macquarie communities on both sides, Pass track in 1998. (Shellharbour both economic and social. The Images, SCC). development of trade routes was by no means the only or most important benefit of opening such a passage. The social isolation of the early 19th century was ever-present in the minds of the pioneers and the ability to move between landscapes was eagerly welcomed. For the coastal settlers it meant leaving the shadowed protection of the escarpment and ascending to the cool clear heights A waterfall at Clover Hill on Macquarie Pass. (Shellharbour Images, SCC, of Robertson and beyond. For the Highlands people it meant falling 1980). off the edge of their world into the humid, salt-scented valley below. That such a path might exist was made tantalisingly clear by the The disparity between these landscapes and climates is just as regular movement of Aboriginal people between the Highlands startling today and the rim of the escarpment still represents a very and the coast. Members of the Bong Bong and Wadi Wadi tribes real climatic, economic and social barrier.

22 The first tracks used by Europeans were opened not by Shellharbour Wild set out by himself sometime in 1818, meeting up with an pioneers, but by a restless Highlander named Joseph Wild. Wild unnamed Gundungerra warrior whom he had befriended on earlier had arrived in the Colony in 1797 and was employed for a time as expeditions. With his help, Wild located several tracks leading a botanist’s assistant. He later accompanied Charles Throsby in down the mountain to Albion Park, Jamberoo, the Pheasant Ground his bid to be the first European settler in the Southern Highlands and Kangaroo Valley. In a journal that is notable for its brevity, Wild and on several of Throsby’s subsequent exploratory expeditions. noted For his services Wild was rewarded with a 100-acre grant close to Throsby’s (near Moss Vale), which he promptly gave up to … brush too thick to penetrate … thick forests with huge trees … another of Throsby’s servants and went off to live in a hut of his mountain tracks too steep, narrow and dangerous, suitable only for own devising on the banks of the . “Joe Wild’s men or stock. 5 Hut” served as a useful reference point for the official surveys that followed and by April 1820 Surveyor The rainforest timber would later prove to be a Meehan had gone as far as Robertson, but dared go valuable commodity, but for the time being it was an no further, turning instead to the Wollondilly Ranges impediment to civilisation. Messmate, bloodwood and southern tablelands. 3 and turpentine would all eventually house the pioneers of Shellharbour, whilst red cedar, sassafras, Wild, it seemed, was not content with life as a hermit leather-jacket and sally wattle made their furniture. and was frequently absent from his riparian paradise Having fulfilled his obligations to Throsby, Wild on exploratory forays of his own. Still in contact with went on to discover Lake George (near Canberra), Throsby and apparently under his instruction, Wild oversaw the construction of the Picton to Goulburn set out to find a way to the coast via the escarpment. road, accompanied Captain Currie on his 1823 Throsby himself subsequently took credit for Wild’s expedition to the Plains, was appointed the work and also credited himself with having found a first constable at Five Islands (near Wollongong) route from what is now Albion Park to Bong Bong, but and then constable at Argyle. His final expedition this appears to be apocryphal. (Throsby did, in fact, was with Backhouse in 1836 (at the age of 77) after find a way to the coast further south, down what is Macquarie Pass c.1890 and prior to which Wild, not surprisingly, retired from the field of now Kangaroo Valley Pass). Throsby even took the the 1897 upgrade. (Shellharbour exploration. Repairing to his hut by the river, Wild liberty of writing to Governor Macquarie in January Images, SCC). lived out the remainder of his days in contemplative 1820: solitude and died at the age of 88, no doubt eminently satisfied with his contribution to the Colony.6 I have the pleasure to inform you that I have fully established the practicability of a short communication between the coast the District Despite Wild’s efforts, the coast remained largely closed from the of Illawarra, and the new country, in the County of Camden, by a pass 4 highlands and it was only a few intrepid souls that made the arduous in the mountains … journey on foot. It was not until 1830 that the Colonial authorities

23 made an attempt to map a route down the Macquarie Ranges. into the sunlit coastal valley. It was Hoddle’s opinion that the cost Stationed at Berrima, Surveyor Robert Hoddle was commissioned of clearing this land for agriculture would be prohibitive. The tracks to survey a route from “… the interior of Camden to the ports of that he and his men eventually cut were quietly reclaimed by the Gerringong and Kiama on the sea coast.” 7 Instructed to look for forest and it continued in its age-old slumber. a double-marked tree at the Bong Bong end of the Wingecarribee Swamp, Hoddle was to plot the form of the swamp and then to A subsequent survey by Burke in 1843 resulted in a track being cut from Dapto, up the escarpment to just north of Kangaloon and Commence a tracing (to follow the ranges as much as possible) across the Mittagong Range. In 1862, based on a survey by Mann, through the brush to that you may gain the cliffs overhanging the a 2-foot wide track was cut from Kiama, up Jamberoo Mountain Illawarra, or at least descend by a gradual inclination to the coast and eventually became Jamberoo Mountain Pass. But it was not 8 between Kiama and Gerringong. until 1863 that the Macquarie Pass track to Albion Park was finally surveyed. By 1869 it had become the principal route for moving Hoddle, who is principally remembered for laying out the town of produce from the Yarrawa Brush country (the Southern Highlands) Melbourne, was clearly impressed but a little disquieted by the to the coast.10 forested slopes of the ranges: The difficulty of surveying and laying this route is hard to appreciate Having surveyed the Wingecarribee Swamp and ascertained the most in modern times, when the journey can be made comfortably in southerly part of it, I commenced to encounter the most formidable less than an hour. In an interesting aside, brush I have seen since I have been in this Guido Weber (a road engineer from colony. It abounds with every species of prickly bush, vine, bramble and nettle. The Wollongong) mapped the present route vines so thickly entwined around the huge of Macquarie Pass in 1894. By this time trees and small as to render the sun obscure, the Pass had been upgraded several [though] at the time it shone with great times to accommodate heavier traffic and 9 brilliancy. was by no means the bush track of its Even now there is a choking, genesis. Nonetheless, it took Weber 10 claustrophobic quality to the Macquarie days to survey the Pass from bottom to rainforest. When it is free from traffic, The top, following what was a comparatively Pass takes on a mesmeric atmosphere, easy walking track.11 Weber did not have amplified by an eerie green light reflected to contend with clearing the forest before from the endless vegetation. The wider him and had the benefit of a formed road world ceases to exist and the inexorable (but sorely lacked a leech repellant); progress of the forest threatens to consume Guido Weber (brother of Carl Weber) and Archie Grieves at in 1863 it was not a journey for the you. There is great beauty in all of this, the Macquarie Pass survey camp in 1894. (Shellharbour fainthearted. Images, SCC). but is with some relief that you emerge

24 By 1869 the road had been sufficiently upgraded to allow horse- An 1887 deputation to the Minister was destined to be unsuccessful, drawn vehicles and the pioneers began to use the road in earnest. largely based on the revised cost of works from £150 to £5,000. The The road itself went Minister deemed the cost to be “… so great that the Secretary for straight up the Public Works would not be warranted in incurring the expenditure … mountain, barely ”. However, Shellharbour residents deviating in its path, were not so easily beaten and in a and terminated second submission in 1889 they beneath the proposed to build 1.5 miles of road steepest part of the themselves, if the Government would cliff overhang. It was agree to construct the remaining necessary to haul 2.5 miles. This arrangement, they wagons and other believed, would result in a cost to goods by rope and the Government of no more than pulley for the final 30 £1,000.13 metres of the ascent, although pedestrians The Minister publicly agreed to give could clamber over the matter serious consideration, but the rocks and ferns was privately alarmed at the prospect with comparative of pioneer farmers constructing a Part of the Macquarie Pass road ease. By 1878 The public roadway over some of the c.1860. (Shellharbour Images, Pass was carrying most difficult and dangerous terrain SCC). so much traffic that in the State. This possibility seemed to spur the government into coastal residents action and by the end of 1896 £3,690 had been voted for the were moved to construction of a new road. A new route was surveyed by William The “new” Macquarie Pass road in the 1920s. approach the Christie in February 1897 and construction, under the supervision (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Minister of Works for of the government engineer Mr Cheffins, quickly followed. In April a major overhaul. The estimated cost of the works – which proved 1898 The Bowral Free Press reported the following: to be wildly optimistic – was £150. At around this time, W.Hamilton of Mount Murray discovered a gap in the Mountain and cut a path Rapid progress has been made with the work on hand, which is through from the main Pass road; this became known as the “Gap of laborious and somewhat dangerous character. The face of the Track” and would later form part of the “new” Macquarie Pass Macquarie Cliff is now showing several newly formed zig-zag roads, 12 cut out of solid rock. The roadway is sand, 14 or 15 feet wide, and is road. of easy grade, so that a horse will be able to trot the whole distance easily.

25 At each turn of the road there is a two chain wide level road space provided so as to render ample room for vehicles, etc., passing in the opposite directions. A large amount of blasting work has been accomplished, and much remains yet to be done. Blasting operations are most actively pushed on, and a series of five or six shots are frequently fired in rapid succession. The formation of this deviation or zig-zag road reflects great credit on the department, and Mr Cheffin’s government.14 The was equally fulsome in its praises but the most evocative accounts are from those who worked on the road’s actual construction. Daniel Rogan, in recounting the tale to his Grand-daughter Joan Allen, told of: … the frightening experience of hurtling head first down the mountain side … breaking up the rock face [and] a blacksmith working at the top of the mountain. Hand drills were used to drill the rock face at intervals, then dynamite charges were placed in the bores and exploded, to break up the rock. The steel bits were sent back up to the blacksmith to sharpen for the next drilling. [There were] teams of men, hand mixing with shovels and in relays, the concrete for the bridges etc., mixing the cement, sand and blue metal together in the blazing sun.15

Scenes from Macquarie Pass 1890-1947. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

26 6. MILK MONEY From the mid 1840s onwards the Shellharbour district was a hive of crop all over NSW. The 1862 drought brought many farmers to ruin rural activity. Wheat and potatoes were the favoured crops closely and those who had survived the rust and drought were faced with followed by beef cattle; dairy cattle existed only for personal use bush fires that swept through the paddocks in 1865.1 and were poorly managed. The meadows of Albion Park were dominated by wheat fields, waving their golden heads in the sunlit But from ruin often comes prosperity and the fires, followed by valley. The wheat fields were laboriously turned over by single- heavy rain, rejuvenated the earth and what grew in place of the furrow horse-drawn ploughs and planted by hand. At harvest time wheat was lush green pasture, more valuable than crops of wheat. the farmers bent to the task, their reaping hooks flashing in the sun In May 1867 it seemed to rain without end and rural life almost as the sweat carved tracks through the wheat dust on their faces. came to a standstill: After threshing, the wheat was taken to mills at Shellharbour, The usual religious services in the respective churches have been Albion Park and Croome and ground into flour. This laborious interfered with and the two public schools in this neighbourhood have process continued until the 1860s when rust devastated the wheat had scarcely any attendance. Our storekeepers have had abundant cause to complain of diminished trade.2

The ground underfoot because “swampy and splashy” and flood relief committees were formed, although getting to the meetings was something of a problem. The heavy rains meant more and better pasture, but increased wheat rust and by the early 1870s wheat had all but disappeared from Shellharbour. Wheat was replaced by oats, barley and rye for green feed, and the beef cattle that had been so dominant in the district were replaced with dairy shorthorns, initially imported from England and later evolving into the renowned Illawarra Shorthorn. Twice daily milking was introduced and dairy buildings began to appear in the fields. The milk was set in large shallow dishes, called kellers, in long shelf- lined milk rooms. The cream was skimmed off the following day and turned into butter in hand-turned wooden churns. The butter was then hand-washed and placed in wooden casks, made by the Robert Wilsonʼs flour mill, Shellharbour 1917. Wilsonʼs flour mill was opened in 1857, powered by a 10 horsepower steam engine. The mill stood at the foot local coopers. When the cask was full, the lid was fixed on and the of Wilson Street on rising ground south of the boat store. It was used for divine cask carted to the boat store, where it awaited the arrival of the next services prior to the building of churches in the village. The mill was closed steamer to Sydney. Sold by a commission agent in Sydney, the when rust caused the abandonment of wheat growing in the 1860s and was butter fetched anything from 6d to 3s6d per pound, depending on demolished in 1922. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

27 the season and the condition of the butter. In the pre-refrigeration days, it frequently melted en route and arrived more in the form of The introduction of refrigeration in 1879 gave an enormous boost oil than butter.3 to the dairy industry and provided the impetus for the formation of the Albion Park Dairy Cooperative. The increase in dairy farms and produce resulted in a natural increase in by-products, particularly skim milk. Piggeries flourished as a natural complement to dairying and most farmers found themselves milking morning and evening and working a piggery in-between. In 1878, with virtually no capital but considerable foresight, the Hicks Brothers established the bacon curing industry in Shellharbour. Always quick to follow the latest technological innovations, they built a refrigerator in 1882 – the first cold-air plant ever used in the bacon-curing industry in NSW. An ammonia machine was subsequently installed and H-brand bacon became famous all over NSW, with pigs being sourced from as far north as Lismore to meet the appetite for their bacon products. By the end of the 19th century, the bacon curing industry was one of the largest industries in the Shellharbour area.5

Bill and John, sons of Hector & Hilda Fraser, and workman George Lucas hand milking at “Seaview” Killalea c.1910. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Marketing was undertaken by individual farmers and they recognised early the need for cooperative organization if they were to be successful in the wider market. The Shellharbour Butter Export Company was formed in November 1869 and the first shipment under its auspices was made in December. In October 1870 a second company was formed with 250 shares and a committee comprising Dunster, Fenwick, Gray, Russell, Thomas, Conway, Evans and Fryer. By this time there were several large dairy farms in the district: Russell (at Croome) milked 120 cows; Clarke (at Macquarie Rivulet) milked 100 and few farmers milked less than The Jersey herd at Ian Greyʼs farm, “The Meadows”, 40 cows. At the height of the butter glut in 1872 Shellharbour Albion Park in the 1950s. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). butter was realising 9.5d on the London market, compared to 13d for Cornish butter, despite being tainted and frequently melted and The fledgling dairy industry was, naturally, dependent upon top falling butter prices.4 quality dairy cows. In the early days, British Shorthorn breeds

28 (mostly Devon and Durham) had intermingled indiscriminately with program, crossing Durham and Devon Shorthorns with Ayrshires beef cattle. The results were less than desirable and a typical scrub resulting in the distinctive Illawarra Red Shorthorn. Along with Evan bull of the 1840s was eloquently described as “all horns and balls.” Evans, McGill took out most of the prizes at the local agricultural Andrew McGill is credited with introducing the first serious breeding shows and was honoured later in life with a banquet at the Albion Park Hotel, acknowledging his contribution to the dairy industry. A self-effacing personality, McGill shared the tribute with William James and the Dunster family, who had also made considerable contributions to the refinement of the Illawarra Shorthorn. Other noted breeders in the district included John Russell, Duncan Beatson, the Bartlett family; Captain Hopkins, John Lindsay, Edward Gibson and the prolific Osborne family.6

Co-operative Marketing The 1850s was a heady period for dairy farmers: advances in breeding and improved pastured meant bigger yields and better quality produce. By the 1860s the market was saturated and butter Delivering milk at the Dunster Farm, “The Hill” in 1916. prices began to fall; by the 1870s a full-blown “butter depression” (Shellharbour Images, SCC). had descended and despite the success of breeding programs, with no viable market for their product, every farmer was preoccupied with “The Butter Question.”7 An elusive figure who dubbed himself the “Dairyman” spoke through the pages of the Kiama Independent about the need for co-operative marketing, calling for the abolition of the “middle-men” – the Sussex Street agents who took 5% (and often more) of the final selling price. The “Dairyman” advocated a “Farmer’s Co-operative Company” in which each member would be an equal shareholder and collectively have control over marketing and profits. Politically, this was heady stuff for the time andit caught on quickly.8

Following an 1880 public meeting at the Kiama Courthouse the Illawarra Shorthorn at Dudgeonʼs Farm, Albion Park c.1955. “South Coast and West Camden Co-operative Company Ltd” was (Shellharbour Images, SCC). formed with a membership of 800 farmers. In its first week, the Co-operative threw the Sydney commission agents into panicked

29 disarray, as consignments were withdrawn and entrusted to the new venture. Agents watched in dismay as their carts returned The Albion Park factory began operations on 10th November 1885 empty from the wharf, whilst carriers for the new company worked and was an immediate success. Designed and erected by D.L. frantically to convey the butter, bacon and cheese from the wharf to Waugh, it had 6 cream separators driven by a 16 horsepower the co-operative floor. Grocers quickly located the new store and steam engine. The building was of weatherboard with a concrete as the first day closed the floor was empty and the price of butter floor and all the milk, water and waste was piped from the factory. had risen to 3d per pound. By the end of the week it had risen to The first 6 months’ profit was invested in the purchase of 300 pigs 9d, its highest price since the boom of the 1850s.9 The Sussex and the farmer’s wives and daughters were finally freed from the Street agents cynically predicted drudgery of scalding and scouring the the new venture would fail within milk pails and dishes. 12 months; within six months prices were stabilised at 1/9 for superior In 1887 a railway line was constructed quality butter and by the end of the from Scarborough to Kiama and the first 12 months had sold £125,000 of following year tunnels cut through consignments, serving 743 regular the mountain connected with the shippers.10 line to Waterfall. The Illawarra line signalled the end of steamer milk Dairy farmers had learnt that together carriage and put the dairymen who did they had power and farmers at Albion not have easy access to the line out Park were quick to form their own of business. But for those who could society. Following a meeting in access the line, the door was opened 1884 sub-committees were formed to the city milk trade and the Albion to select a suitable site, question Park Dairy Co rushed to seize the new the management of the society and Milk carts at the Dairy Co-Op, Albion Park in the 1920s. (Shellharbour opportunity. The milk train had barely canvass for support. The first general Images, SCC). started its run when it was reported meeting of shareholders in October 1884 agreed on a starting that Albion Park was sending nearly 500 gallons of milk a day to capital of £2,000 and the name of “Albion Park Dairy Co.” A year Sydney; Dapto and Shellharbour were quick to follow.12 later the factory was opened on the south bank of the Macquarie Rivulet. David Dymmock, who had returned from Denmark in 1884 Although the new line meant new markets, it also changed the way with his head stuffed full of knowledge on co-operative societies country milk was sold and marketed. The Albion Park co-operative as well as the agency for Laval separators, was present with his was no longer marketing its product directly, but selling it either to wife. It was Mrs Dymmock who opened the factory by breaking a “Fresh Food & Ice” or the “South Coast and West Camden Co- milk bottle on the engine to the resounding cheers of 500 guests. op”. Fresh Food & Ice were paying suppliers in Albion Park and This was followed by a mind-numbing 7 hours of speeches by Shellharbour (amongst others) 8d per gallon in summer and 12d enthusiastic advocates of factories and co-operation.11

30 per gallon in winter. A freer market District meetings took place in the first 2 weeks of January 1900 resulted in falling milk prices and at Albion Park, Dapto, Kiama and Unanderra. At the Albion Park the first rumblings of discontent meeting John Fraser told his jubilant audience that they were “… on began in the district. In 1890 the the warpath; bit it could also be said they had been driven to it.”15 Farmer’s and Dairymen’s Milk Co. Meares bemoaned the Farmer’s & Dairymen’s failure and the need opened as the first city/country for yet another co-operative milk company but there appeared to be co-operative. The Farmer’s Direct little choice if the smaller farmers were to survive in the new market. Supply Co. and the Country Milk At a final climactic gathering at Albion Park on 15th January, the Co. followed hot on its heels and Dairy Farmer’s Co-operative Milk Company was formally endorsed, smaller co-operatives like Albion absorbing the Albion Park, Jamberoo, Dapto and Shellharbour Co- Park found themselves competing ops. The Albion Park factory continued to function, although under rather than co-operating in an the auspices of Dairy Farmer’s, until its closure. Although dairying attempt to stay independent. continues in the district, it is no longer the dominant industry in the Increasingly beleaguered, the area, but rather a quaint reminder of the times past. Albion Park and Shellharbour co- ops awaited the end of the 19th John Fraser, first Chairman of the Interestingly, Albion Park’s most significant contribution to the dairy Illawarra Central Dairy Co. Ltd, century in a state of high anxiety. c.1900. (Shellharbour Images, industry was not its produce or even its role in the formation of One man from Albion Park would SCC). co-operative societies, but the faithful Illawarra Shorthorn cow. So shortly prove to be seminal in the successful was the breed that it infiltrated all dairy-producing areas further development of the local dairy industry.13 first in NSW, then Victoria and the rest of Australia, before taking on the world in a highly successful export program. Today, it is On 29th December 1899, still insulated by Christmas cheer, five one of the dominant dairy breeds in the USA, second only to the men met in the offices of the Farmer’s Co-operative Co. in Sussex Friesan/Holstein. Ironically, it is rarely seen in the Illawarra, where Street, Sydney. They deliberated on how to form a company along the Friesan/Holstein breed spread like a black and white tide across genuinely co-operative lines for the distribution of milk in the city. the land in the mid 20th century. Charles Meares, of the South Camden Co-Op was the obvious leader and the man with all the facts and figures to hand. No less important was John Fraser who had started his co-operative career as director of the Shellharbour Steam Navigation Company. From there, he had moved to the board of the Albion Park Dairy Co . eventually becoming manager in 1886. In 1899 he was chairman of Illawarra Central and he was intent on unifying farmer support behind a new venture – the Dairy Farmer’s Co-operative Milk Company.14

31 Alan Dawes & Audrey Jones survey the milk cans at the Co-Op c.1955. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

Transporting milk cans with a horse and slide, c.1925. Illawarra Dairy Co-Op (Shellharbour Images, SCC). employees with the weekly butter output c. 1909. (Shellharbour Milk wagons at Albion Park in 1913. (Shellharbour Images, Images, SCC). SCC).

The Co-Op loading dock in 1899. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

32 7. SEA LANES The genesis of the Shellharbour shipping industry lies in lime and and the bullockies had a hard battle crossing the Macquarie River cedar. These early industries developed in the area from the 1820s; and would have had a tough time traversing the solidly timbered the news of the bountiful Illawarra travelled quickly and soon the landscape, including the escarpment, to Sydney. Thankfully the area hummed with human industry. From the initial transportation small, protected harbour at Peterborough, (Shellharbour), was of cedar and lime by sea to Sydney, shipping gradually expanded perfect for shipping. The cedar cutters floated their planks from to encompass livestock, agricultural and dairy produce and mined the beach by way of rude rafts out to vessels awaiting their timber materials. Shipping had a relatively short but illustrious career in cargo for transportation to Sydney. Later, Towns and Addison, Shellharbour, securing the future of the municipality and making (sons-in-law of D’Arcy Wentworth), had established a shell-lime the fortunes of many early settlers and businesspeople, until the industry and began transporting their burnt lime to Sydney by boat arrival of the railway in the late 1880s brought its downfall. Without from Shellharbour.1 shipping the area would have languished, beaten by the rugged landscape, which was beautiful and beguilingly lush, but a hard, By the mid 19th century the local harbour was predicted to become unforgiving mistress for bullock wagons. an important port on the NSW coast;2 however the rocky bar at the entrance to the small harbour, which prevented large vessels entering, would have to be removed before this could be realised. Nevertheless, shipping ventures were established and industry related plant was constructed, (jetties and stores), to enable local producers to transport goods to market more easily. The local shipping industry was marked by the formation of various co-operatives in a bid to secure access to the Sydney market for local primary producers and industries. Every few years another company was established to replace the last - usually after the aim of the previous was achieved and the group had moved onto a new project to enhance their possibilities of prosperity in Sydney’s garden, the Illawarra.

The harbour at Shellharbour, c.1905. (Shellharbour The formation of a sea transportation co-operative was first Images, SCC). proposed in 1857; the following year the tender of Mr. W. Groat was accepted to erect a jetty at Shellharbour with a produce store At first, transporting cedar from Shellharbour overland to the port for the movement of goods, (including butter, cattle and stock), at Wollongong for shipping to Sydney was virtually impossible between Shellharbour and Sydney.3 The Macquarie River settlers - the tracks through the Illawarra were barely worn in the 1820s were notified of the arrival of a boat at port by the “...hoisting of a

33 ball on top of a high fig tree on Dunster’s Hill, visible over almost all in 1860 at the Settler’s Arms Inn to construct the new work and four the municipality.”4 Settlers travelled along a track from “… Marshall years later the jetty was completed. The company was justifiably Mount across Macquarie Flats and over the Stony Range to the proud of their 22 bay pier, which ensured that the local producers little port”,5 and the small harbour welcomed vessels, the William could gain access to larger ships to transport their goods to Sydney and Ann, the Elizabeth Cohen,6 and Thomas Hale’s Rapid.7 more regularly and no longer had to rely on the services of smaller vessels. In 1865 Captain Baxter, (who had first skippered the Ships were loaded from the shore before the construction of the William and Ann in the locality), introduced a new schooner, the jetty and although it initially serviced the locals well, eventually trade Peterborough Lass, to service the Shellharbour-Sydney trade suffered due to inadequate services at the port. The rocky bar at the route;9 the Agenoria also traded at the port at this time. entrance meant only small vessels could come into Shellharbour to take produce and these came infrequently.8 The Osbornes, Unhappy with simply the means of loading ships, the local McGills and others watched in frustration while many large vessels traders wanted their own boat at their service and thus another passed their port, plying their trade along the NSW south coast. company was formed – the Shellharbour Co-operative Navigation Without enough access to market, the future of primary production Company – to purchase or build a boat. In 1867 the Dairymaid and industry in Shellharbour was bleak. With economic prosperity was constructed at Huskisson by William Wood and was soon at stake, producers at Shellharbour forced the construction of a put to work. The Shellharbour Steam Navigation Company was generous jetty that could accept larger vessels. A new venture, the formed in 1875, (replacing the abovementioned), almost 20 years Southern Coast Steam Packet Company, was formed at a meeting after it was proposed.10 Two years later the bar was removed from the entrance to the harbour and in 1879 the concrete breakwater was constructed.11 1880 saw the breakwater extended and the bar removed to an even greater depth enabling even better services.12

Remains of the original jetty at Bass Point, 1947. ( S h e l l h a r b o u r Images, SCC).

The Settlerʼs Arms Hotel, Shellharbour, c.1865. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

34 to pay costs and damages the co-operative went into liquidation in Other shipping related structures were constructed in the 1905, thus ending Shellharbour shipping forever, excepting for that Shellharbour area to meet the needs of the local quarries. George relating to mined materials.14 Laurence Fuller built a jetty at Bass Point, (then Long Point), for the Shipwrecks Sea faring along the NSW east coast can be perilous at the best of times. Large waves and strong currents have put ocean vessels at the mercy of nature since ocean navigation began, but even modern mariners are not safe, evidenced by the turmoil of the Sydney to yacht race every Boxing Day. Many ships, new and old, have slipped beneath the waves and found their rest on the ocean’s sandy floor.

Consequently, shipping around Shellharbour has not always been smooth sailing. From the first European explorers to Shellharbour, The SS Dunmore loading blue metal at Long Point, later renamed Bass Point, 1917. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). (who experienced the vagaries of coastal weather and ended up far past their Port Hacking target), many boats have succumbed to transport of blue metal. The quay and quarries thrived, farewelling the treachery of hidden rocks and forceful weather. At least eight vast amounts of mined materials; indeed, it worked so well that shipwrecks have been recorded off the coast of the Shellharbour eventually Fuller could afford his own vessel to service the local municipality, with Bass Point the scene of many of these tragedies. extractive trade and in 1891, the launch of the SS Dunmore was Shellharbour had its fair share with the Amphritrite wrecked there celebrated at Shellharbour.13 on 15 May 1851, the Kiltobranks on 21 February 1924,15 and Blackwall on 20 July 1876. Once the railway traversed Shellharbour in 1887, primary producers and allied industries preferred the "iron horse" to the unpredictability “The boisterous weather of the past week has had the effect of the sea; the local shipping industry collapsed. The Shellharbour of adding two more to the already long list of shipwrecks jetty fell into disrepair and was quietly reclaimed by the seas. The which have occurred on the south coast. Two schooners – the village sank into a quieter existence and although the protected Franz and the Bertha…left Sydney on Monday morning last harbour still saw many boats, they were much smaller and carried for Kiama…..They experienced a storm about four o’clock leisure-seeking human cargo rather than produce. The shipping on Tuesday morning, and the Bertha….being unable to make companies tried to keep afloat by using their ships to trade at other Kiama, put about, and tried to make Wollongong. The wind and sea rose suddenly, and the sails were considerably torn. The ports north and south, but in the end Shellharbour shipping’s death captain finding his vessel would not wear…seeing a light on the knell was sounded by a mere accident at Sydney Heads. The northern side of Point Bass or Long Point ran her ashore, and Peterborough collided with the ketch Jessie, which sank. In order with the assistance of some aborigines, whose camp was close

35 by, succeeded in getting a line ashore, by which means the crew of attacks, (1942 – 1944). Australian soldiers came to the rescue were safely landed…The Franz which had been following in the of the American crew of the SS Cities Service Boston and in doing wake of the Bertha, came so far south, that the Kiama harbour so forfeited the lives of four of their own. A memorial plaque to the light could be plainly seen, but being unable to make the port, wreck and the Australian lives lost is situated at Bass Point where put back, like the Bertha in the hope of getting into Wollongong yearly memorial services are held; another memorial to the wreck harbour…near the entrance to the Macquarie Lake, a light was is located on the war memorial monument in Caroline Chisholm observed on shore which was mistaken for the Bertha’s, and the captain keeping the vessel in shore presently found himself Park, Shellharbour and remnants of the wreck remain at Bass among the breakers…and the captain then endeavoured to lay Point. Other wrecks at Bass Point include: the Echo on 21 March to till daylight, but found this impractionable, so determined as 1863, Bertha on 9 September 1879, Our Own on 21 August 1880, the best way to save the lives of his crew to beach the vessel.”16 the Alexander Berry in 1901,18 and the Comboyne in 1920.

The US Cities Services Boston aground at Bass Point, c.1943. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

The wreck of the Kiltobranks, 1924. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

Whilst WWII raged in Europe and Asia on land, in Australia an Salvaging the almost silent war was waged along our coastline with German screw of the US mines and Japanese submarines taking Australian and Allied Cities Services Boston in 1957. lives.17 The most famous wreck in Shellharbour was the SS Cities ( S h e l l h a r b o u r Service Boston which ran into rocks at Bass Point on 16 May 1943 Images, SCC). whilst transporting fuel for the war effort. Although it was not sunk by enemy fire, the wreck occurred during the most intense period

36 8. LIVING AND LEARNING “Schools were not so much in evidence as now (1901) and the Creek and one at Dunmore known as Fitzgerald’s which was later mastering of the three Rs was made much subservient to the felling of converted to a National School in 1862.2 trees and the clearing of the scrub.”1 When the first settlers and their children came to the Shellharbour For much of the first century after European colonisation countless area there were no educational institutions, so the new immigrants children were not fortunate enough to receive even an elementary set about making a life for themselves, part of which was the education. Without the force of government legislation many development of community facilities like schools for the education settler’s children were taught the skills for their life in the home and of their offspring. By the mid 19th century public and denominational paddock working alongside parents clearing scrub, farming and in schools existed in many areas of the colony including at businesses with barely a nod to literacy and numeracy. Even later Shellharbour, Macquarie River and Terry’s Meadows, which made education more accessible to the local settlers. In 1866 the Council of Education was formed to administer public schools in NSW taking over from the Board of National Education; a similar body, the Denominational Schools Board looked after church schools. However, the introduction of the Public Instruction Act 1880 had the

Minnamurra School, Dunmore, no date. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). when schools were available, periods of busy farm work resulted in a dramatic decline in attendance, conversely during slow times the Macquarie River Church of England School, 1879. schools were packed to the rafters. The children of wealthy settlers (Shellharbour Images, SCC). were often educated at home using private tutors while others were lucky enough to be taught reading and writing skills by their parents most profound effect on education in NSW, establishing compulsory at home or attended church schools, but just as many never had a instruction and withdrawing government funding from private and 3 chance. Small private schools existed in the early period at Stoney denominational schools.

37 The history of each small local school is mirrored many times over most materials sourced from the locality. The local builders and in Shellharbour. The late 1850s and 1860s saw a boom in local committees did their best to provide reasonable buildings but educational facilities with many new schools opening to cater for by today’s standards most would be considered intolerable. All the increasing population brought about by the region’s prosperity. were simple structures frequently following model designs for Schools were often moved around the landscape with changing educational buildings of the time, (especially public schools); most settlement patterns. Enlarged as the population grew – they had a residence attached for teacher and family. Regardless of were often inadequate in size, comforts and materials by the time the fabric, each type brought different trials to the pupils forced to construction was completed. Schools opened and closed to cater endure the extremes of weather within its walls. Students shivered for the quirks of 19th century population waves, for example the in winter when the gusts of wind blew through the cracks in the school at Tullimbar opened in 1881, closed in 1896, reopened in weatherboard walls; the stone buildings refrigerated the local youth. 1922, closed in 1942, to open yet again in the 1950s.4 The majority Summer was easier to bear in stone and brick classrooms, but of teachers were men of which the married ones were often lucky the weatherboard barely gave any protection against the soaring temperatures. Some classrooms even had earthen floors, (e.g.

Tullimbah School, Albion Park, no date. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Shellharbour Public School, 1871. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). enough to have the aid of their wife in the classroom, usually a happy boon to teacher and students. The school buildings were Moles’ school at Tongarra c.1870s).5 Without fail, every school was sometimes used for church or public meetings until purpose built always inadequate for the needs of the teacher and student – there structures were constructed. was never enough space, nor material to go around. For example, students at the newly constructed Shellharbour School in the 1870s Schools in Shellharbour were constructed of varied materials, had to wait a few years for toilets. some of weatherboard, some brick and others of stone, with

38 The centralisation of eduction in the 20th century saw the allocate a teacher. Sometimes the government would pay part of abandonment of many schools in Shellharbour. From the mid the costs, (e.g. two-thirds was contributed by the government to the 20th century public school students began to be bussed into larger second, enlarged school at Shellharbour), with the local community centres for education rather than the government supporting left to pick up the rest of the tab – quite an undertaking for many many small rural schools. An early example of this education struggling settlers considering they still had to pay student fees. centralisation scheme is at Dunmore where local children were bussed to Shellharbour for their schooling when the Minnamurra The first school in Shellharbour was opened by Captain Robert School closed in 1907.6 Towns in c.1843 for the children of settlers brought to Shellharbour by Caroline Chisholm. Towns engaged Mr. Michael Hassen to In the 19th century secondary education was often catered for in the teach these tiniest immigrants in a slab hut located on the south- regular public schools when necessary, east corner of Addison and Wentworth although not many students continued Streets. It would seem that Hassen on after they turned 14. The first stayed at the school until his death in secondary school in Shellharbour was 1858 at which time the control of the opened in 1962 at the rapidly expanding school was taken over by a committee Oak Flats, which was followed shortly of local men on behalf of the Board after by the high school at Warilla, of National Education.8 With public (1966). Prior to the introduction of subscription paying one-third of the high schools in Shellharbour in the cost and the Board granting two-thirds, 20th century, residents had to travel the old school was enlarged to service to Dapto or Kiama for secondary the increasing populace and opened education.7 Tertiary education had in 1859 with Mr. Henry Bonnar as an even later start. A TAFE campus teacher.9 at Warilla opened in 1977 to cater for technical education, but for a university Albion Park Public School, 1892. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Early settlers built what was education, local residents still have to necessary to their need and means. travel to Wollongong or Sydney. As a place grows the old become obsolete, as it was with the school at Shellharbour. Left well enough alone whilst all around the community expanded and made its mark on the landscape Public Schooling with homes, churches, stores and the like, the school suffered and Public schooling was very different in the 19th century. Parents deteriorated. Embarrassed by scrutiny in the Illawarra Mercury were expected to contribute quite a bit to their children’s education, for the “unworthy” structure the community moved to erect a new, often providing a school site, building, furniture, utensils, and commodious building to house the school. Again with community accommodation for the schoolmaster before the government would subscription, (made easier by the prosperity gained in the 1860s),

39 and Council of Education grant, a schoolhouse was constructed 1870s, schools and churches were constructed side by side in in 1870 at a new site in Mary Street on an acre of land given by Albion Park West, however in the 1880s the settlement had grown Thomas Alexander Reddall.10 The old school closed and it seems up near the Albion Park crossroads and so schools were shifted it was left lonesomely there to endure the action of the voracious here when they could. (See Appendix A for list of Shellharbour’s termites and borers until it was no more.11 The 1870 version in Mary public schools). Street was demolished and replaced in 1929 with a new building.12 Denominational Schooling During the very early days of settlement there were also schools The first church school in the Shellharbour area was a Church of at Macquarie River, (later Tullimbar), and Terry’s Meadows, (later England school established at the Macquarie River after the initial Albion Park), about which little is known. The Macquarie River settlement of the area and situated on the just west School floundered under the auspices of the Church of England of Tullimbar Lane. This was converted in c.1860 to a public school. and in the 1860s was converted to a public school under similar Although the first denominational school didn’t have a long career, circumstances to its counterpart at Shellharbour.13 many others soon followed. Of Roman Catholic denomination, the St Paul’s Catholic School at Albion Park was established in 1883 With a shift of focus to the settlement at Albion Park from the 1870s, and is the only early church school that survives in the Shellharbour (consolidated by the proximity of that settlement to the railway line City area into the 21st century.14 The school was originally known that came through the area in the late 1880s), more public and as St. Joseph’s, however when the school was rebuilt in 1925 the church schools opened in the vicinity of that settlement. In the moniker became St Paul’s. The 20th century has seen many more Anglican and Catholic schools established in the Shellharbour City area, with another to be added to the mix, Corpus Christi Catholic High School, Oak Flats, in 2006.15

(For a full list of schools in Shellharbour see Appendix B).

St Paulʼs Catholic School, Albion Park, c.1925. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

40 9. SIX FEET UNDER In my last communication [23/3/1883] the death of two of Mr Archibald The first cemetery in the Shellharbour area was located onthe McGill’s children was mentioned, and the probability of a third being picturesque sand dunes near the small port at Shellharbour village, added to that number. The apprehension proved to be too correct, as just south of the harbour. The area was granted for a cemetery when the third died on the night you printed the statement about the other two deaths, and a fourth death took place on the Monday following. the Wentworth family subdivided the private village of Peterborough Thus four deaths occurred in that family within eight days.” for sale in 1851.3 Captain Robert Towns, (husband of Sophia, one of Wentworth’s daughters), is thought to have laid out the sections 4 Anon, 3/4/1883, Kiama Independent1 for the denominations in 1851. Many early residents were laid to rest here with their headstones facing the rising sun over the The specific causes of death may change throughout history but Pacific Ocean, representing the ascension of Jesus Christ. Time nevertheless it comes. Deaths in the early era were commonly wearied this consecrated ground, which was eroded by the rough caused by falls from horse or buggy, work accidents, drowning, seas of the Pacific and the cemetery fell into disuse. Eventually fire and infectious diseases and the familiar cavalcade of human the old headstones leaned and fell from their pedestals to lie on the misadventure. Infant mortality was notably higher than it is now ground that housed Shellharbour pioneer’s remains. The cemetery and infectious diseases were a constant worry in the 19th and was resumed in 1889 by the government, (along with much of the 5 early 20th centuries. The Kiama Independent published death Shellharbour seafront), for a recreational reserve; some of the notices with frightening regularity during the diphtheria epidemic interred and their headstones were removed to other cemeteries. of 1883 and the McGill family tragedy was a story common to The site of the cemetery is now Bassett Park and a caravan park 6 many families. Influenza ravaged populations in the first half of the known for many years as Burying Ground Beach Caravan Park. 19th century and in 1918-19. The 1850s saw a host of diseases including measles, typhoid, smallpox and pulmonary TB rip through The Presbyterian Cemetery, (now known as the Albion Park Australia. There was no respite the following decade when a new Pioneer Cemetery, situated in Russell Street), Roman Catholic mass of maladies tormented the population, including diphtheria, and Anglican burial grounds, (both on Tongarra Road), at Albion 7 scarlet fever, whooping cough and other respiratory infections, not Park were all established in the 1870s west of the crossroads. to mention the bubonic plague of the 1900s.2 The erection of churches and the consecration of the associated cemeteries coincided with the expansion of the Albion Park centre The earliest pioneers set aside burial grounds almost immediately at the expense of the older one at Shellharbour. Rivalry between after they arrived on the properties where they lived and worked. Shellharbour’s earliest two towns was rife during this period with the Some people would have been buried along the newly worn tracks settlers at Shellharbour livid that their focal position was usurped. through the Illawarra as they travelled through. There are likely to However, the lack of viable options meant that as Shellharbour folk be many unmarked graves throughout the district and the resting died they were probably buried at the cemeteries at Albion Park place of many pioneers will forever be a secret. As the population until the second Shellharbour cemetery, known as the Shellharbour grew, the need for a dedicated cemetery become evident. General Cemetery, was established in the mid 1890s. This

41 cemetery was located on the eastern slope of a hill south of the a library, museum, pool and car park; the entire two acres of the village, (on Shellharbour Road), between the aforementioned and original burial ground was sold to Shellharbour City Council in early the railway at Albion Park. The land had been given by G.L. Fuller 1980. By 1982 the former cemetery had been converted to a rest in 1894 and the cemetery came into use two years later.8 park/pioneer cemetery with the assistance of the Albion Park Lions Club.9 The Albion Park Pioneer Cemetery contains the remains of many of the earliest Presbyterian settlers at Albion Park, many of whom Two other cemeteries exist in the Shellharbour locality, at Albion were of Scottish heritage and arrived in the district from the 1840s Park and Albion Park Rail. The Marshall Mount Methodist Cemetery, to take up clearing leases. These pioneers were instrumental in (on Calderwood Road, Albion Park), was laid out on land donated the development of the locality, and essential industries such as by Alderman Thomas Armstrong for that purpose in 1879. The dairying. The first interment on the second is Croome Cemetery or the western side of the cemetery was that Albion Park Rail General Cemetery, of Andrew McGill in 1876, two years (on Croome Road), which was a before the cemetery was officially public cemetery established by the acquired by the Presbyterian Church Shellharbour Municipal Council in (in January 1878 for £20 from John 1900.10 Russell). The burial ground was two acres, being part of lots 32 and 42 of the Terry’s Meadow Estate. Six-week- old Neil James McGill was buried in 1878 near his family member on the western side of the cemetery securing this portion for the McGill family. Other early families represented in this cemetery include the Frasers, Moles, Balls, McDonalds and Mercers. The cemetery was essentially closed to Albion Park Pioneer Cemetery, 1982. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). burials from the 1930s, excepting those that held a prior claim in family plots. From this time Presbyterian burials occurred at the Croome Cemetery and the original Albion Park Presbyterian burial ground was largely left alone, becoming overgrown and the monuments dilapidated as a result of age and erratic maintenance; the last burial occurred in 1969. The curtilage of this cemetery has been reduced by community facilities including

42 10. FROM A DISTANT LAND The Aboriginal people were the first immigrants to Shellharbour seasickness was the most common malady with many spending arriving somewhere between 40,000 and 100,000 years ago. These the journey heaving over the ship’s rails. For those lucky enough early immigrants held the land in trust for thousands of years until to escape seasickness, infectious diseases such as measles the arrival of the next and subsequent waves of immigration over and typhoid lurked on board, claiming many lives on the outward the last two centuries. About 160 000 convicts entered Australia in journey. Good nutrition was difficult for many in the 19th century and the late 18th and early 19th centuries and from the 1790s there were on board ocean-going vessels it could be even worse as rations also free immigrants flowing from the United Kingdom.1 Migrants consisted of dried and salted meats, tea, sugar, flour, liquor and from the United Kingdom and Ireland dominated from colonial some vegetables. In the heat, coping with the cramped conditions times until the mid 20th century. Post WWII, the levels of migration onboard would fray anyone’s nerves; the hot air hung below deck fluctuated substantially, depending on economic conditions and creating an oppressive atmosphere with perspiration pouring from political policies. Australia’s migrants extended to include Eastern a multitude of bodies, not to mention the resultant stench. To go European and Mediterranean populations displaced by WWII, on deck could mean a serious bout of sunstroke, aggravated by the including Italy, Greece and Yugoslavia. From the late 20th century voluminous clothing of the period. Ships’ doctors were kept busy more Asian migrants have entered the country.2 This trend is administering to crew and passengers and all breathed a sigh of concurrent in Shellharbour where the English, Scottish, Welsh and relief when the ships finally docked at Port Jackson. Irish arrived first, followed by Germans, Greeks, Italians, Dutch, Finns, Chinese and Indians. The tradition of migration to the With the end of transportation of convicts in 1840, the Australian Shellharbour area continues today, largely because Shellharbour economy could no longer ride the wave of free labour and needed continues to offer fertile land, industrial jobs and a seaside resort to look to an immigrant workforce to move forward. This was lifestyle. Immigration has had a major impact on the size and provided by assisted migration of British nationals. The scheme composition of Shellharbour’s population, particularly since the end worked for a time but a dearth of skills in certain fields by 1847 of WWII. saw the first real move towards a multicultural Australia when non-British workers were welcomed to Australia, providing they Immigrants travelled here by boat for thousands of years until had the requisite skills. The gold rush of the mid 19th century in the late 20th century when air transportation technology overtook Victoria and NSW saw an acute labour shortage in primary industry previous modes of travel. Migrating to Australia in the 19th and early which resulted in the approval of assisted passages for pastoralist 20th centuries started with a tedious ocean voyage. In the mid 19th sponsored employment. Australia welcomed expert wine growers, century it took about three months to travel to Australia, depending shepherds, coachbuilders, wheelwrights and farmers and there on the weather, and included stops at Cape Town in South Africa was a huge influx of immigrants from all over the world.3 to replenish supplies before the Roaring Forties swept the vessel east across thousands of kilometres of treacherous ocean to the Shellharbour had two distinct assisted migration schemes very Australian colony. The going was tough for most passengers: early in its history, that of Reverend John Dunmore Lang in 1837

43 and Caroline Chisholm in 1843. Both schemes were quite similar the boys were young, Henry seven and Louis five. Phillip Dietz had in that the aforementioned organised multiple family groups with secured a sponsored employment position as a vineyard worker similar lifestyles, morals and religious beliefs to settle near each for Mr. Robb of Riversdale and brought his family to Australia other to form an instant community where they would live and work on the assisted passage scheme, settling in Kiama. The Mood the leased land. Both schemes were assisted by Captain Robert boys took their stepfather’s name until they left school when they Towns and were highly successful with the families thriving in their reverted to Muth/Mood. Remaining in Kiama until the mid 1870s, adopted country. Many progressed to land ownership in their own Henry became a coachbuilder and Louis followed him into the right, a possibility all but closed to most of trade. The brothers must have been close these Scottish and English settlers in the as everywhere that Henry went, Louis United Kingdom.4 was sure to follow, at least for a time. The Moods began their lives in Shellharbour The colony was still in its infancy when in 1875 when Henry established a coach the first German book describing Australia building factory in Shellharbour known as was published in 1823 to encourage H. & L.R. Mood. The Mood brothers and German migration, however by this time their families lived, worked and prospered many Germans had already made the in Shellharbour, adding assets of property trip to NSW and entered into business. and businesses to their portfolio. They German migrants came to the Illawarra concentrated on coach building until 1883 in the 1850s to live and work. Previously, when Henry purchased a timberyard and German botanist Karl von Hugel had visited gravitated towards building and selling the area to collect specimens. German timber whilst Louis continued with coaches. artist, Eugene von Guerard also came to From 1885 Louis took over the coach Shellharbour and immortalised its beauty building business and Henry’s name began with sketches and paintings around the to fade from the locality, moving to Lismore time of the earlier settlers; however most probably in the 1890s.7 German settlers were busy agriculturalists or vignerons. At Shellharbour, the most H. & L.R. Mood changed to L.R. Mood & famous German immigrants of the 19th Albion Park Show Committee Executive, 1903 with Mr Sons in the mid 1880s with Louis continuing Muth (Mood) in the centre. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). century were the Muth brothers, Ludwig the business in Shellharbour with his sons. and Henrik, (later anglicised to Louis and Louis began public life in 1885 when he Henry Mood).56 was elected to Shellharbour Municipal Council, maintaining his association with local council until 1906. Louis Mood was an astute The Mood brothers arrived in Australia on the Commodore Perry in and wealthy businessman by this time and obviously realised the 1855 with their mother and stepfather, Phillip and Margaret Dietz; implications of the arrival of the iron horse and the resultant effect

44 on the Shellharbour centre and commerce in the district. As a thousands converging on the Illawarra. The end of warfare in councillor he would have been a major player in the shift of focus the 1940s left hundreds of thousands of peoples displaced by from Shellharbour to Albion Park, but regardless of the political hand conflict in Europe, while in Australia there was a shortage of labour Mood played, he was a long term resident of Shellharbour and was and a growing belief that population growth was essential to the likely a kindred of local villagers who resented the shift. Economics country’s future. Consequently Australia negotiated agreements came first and Louis realised that it was financial suicide forhis with other governments and international organisations to help business to stay in Shellharbour and so he jumped ship and moved achieve its high migration targets. By 1950, 200 000 immigrants lock, stock and barrel to Albion Park, the new commercial hub, in had already arrived under the auspices of these government 1895. His Shellharbour cronies obviously forgave him as when the polices and contracts. In the 1950s and 1960s the Netherlands, Council Chambers moved to Albion Germany, Italy, Greece, Turkey and Park two years later he was elected Yugoslavia provided the majority of mayor.8 migrants to Australia,10 many moving south into the Illawarra, especially Louis Robert Mood was a prominent Shellharbour as the opportunity for civic citizen in the Shellharbour work and housing was high. Largely municipality from the 1880s until welcomed with open arms, (Dutch death in 1920, age 70. Not only was and German language books were Louis Mood a councillor and mayor, introduced to the Oak Flats Library to but he represented the community service the ethnic community there11), on various agricultural and dairying housing and facilities expanded to associations like the Albion Park cope with the high demand in the Show Committee and Milk Suppliers locality brought by the dramatic rise Union. Mood was there when the in population, with huge residential Central Illawarra Milk Factory and the expansion at Warilla, Oak Flats and Dairy Farmers Milk Company was L.R. Mood & Sons, Coachbuilders & Wheelwrights, Albion Park, c.1895. other suburbs of Shellharbour. established. Louis Mood and family (Shellharbour Images, SCC). stayed in Albion Park, many of them The first “New Australians” for their entire lives and are well remembered for community work naturalised in Shellharbour were Warilla residents Mr. and Mrs. and social associations. L.R. Mood Park at Albion Park honours Jan Kaay in a ceremony in October 1959 at Albion Park Council this important public man.9 Chambers. Naturalisation ceremonies were frequent in the 1950s with many immigrants adopting Australian nationality.12 Many other immigrants mirrored the life of Mood in the 20th century. After the end of WWII there was a huge influx of migrants from Industrial development continued from the mid 20th century in non-English speaking backgrounds into Australia, with many Wollongong enticing more and more immigrants. Refugees of

45 war came in the 1940s and 1950s; in the 1960s and 1970s skilled The legacy of many waves of immigration in Shellharbour is workers in the steel industry came from the British Isles and even evidenced in the local architecture, lifestyle and cuisine. European more recently people from south-east Asia have arrived, exiles style houses are evident in most suburbs of Shellharbour, with the from conflict in their homelands.13 In the mid 1990s in NSW more instantly recognisable homes of Greek migrants glowing white in the than one in five residents was born overseas. NSW has the highest summer sun. A home in Oak Flats with a windmill out front signals proportion of overseas immigrants in the country, mainly from non- its owner’s Dutch heritage to all. Multicultural restaurants abound English speaking countries. At this time in Shellharbour almost 12 where once only Anglo-Saxon fare was available. The obligatory per cent of the population was born overseas.14 Chinese restaurants are found in most settlements, in line with the rest of Australia. In the 21st century the Mediterranean-inspired al fresco dining has taken hold, perfect for the summer weather and the tourists in Shellharbour.

Mr & Mrs Fritz Fisher who arrived in Australia from Germany in 1957. They established a German School in Oak Flats in 1962 and the German Air Rifle Club at Albion Park Rail in 1967. Mr Fisher received an OAM in 1988 for his efforts to foster good relations between the Australian and German people. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

46 11. A VILLAGE BY THE SEA On 22 September 1851, the Private Town of Peterborough was the construction of the New Royal Hotel in 1891, which was also laid out and registered at the Registrar General’s Department in destroyed by fire in 1931, never to be rebuilt. Mrs. Henrietta Bush, Sydney. The streets of the port village were named after D’Arcy the last proprietor of the New Royal Hotel, transferred her publican’s Wentworth’s family, including his daughters Mary and Sophia, licence to the Ocean Beach Hotel, after the 1931 fire.3 and his sons-in-law, Towns, Addison and Darley. A cemetery was also laid out on the south arm of the By the end of the 1850s there were harbour and the little village began its postal services, a local police presence, official life.1 Spirits were high and the a Literary and Debating Society and future of the village and locality were Robert Wilson had erected his flourmill bright in the mid 19th century. The in which church services were held harbour was predicted to become a prior to the erection of purpose-built busy shipping centre on the south Anglican and Presbyterian churches coast and local residents had already in 1859.4 The mill was demolished in begun developing its natural assets 1922 by which time it had become so with stores at the harbour. A jetty dilapidated that it was a safety hazard. followed in 1858, but was replaced The Shellharbour Tennis Club erected with a more commodious pier in 1864. a rotunda on the site, which is now the In 1877 the rocky bar at the entrance of centrepiece of a picnic and recreation the harbour was removed, in 1879 the area on the old “Driftway”.5 concrete breakwater was erected and in 1880 the breakwater was extended The Steam Packet Inn, Shellharbour, c.1905. (Shellharbour Images, The village progressed at a steady and the bar removed to a greater SCC). pace, surviving the 1860s wheat rust depth, all of which enabled the port to epidemic to emerge a well-known port access better services, especially by the use of larger vessels.2 village of scenic character. The seafront was always a favoured relaxation spot, with more and more visitors travelling to the village By the mid 1850s a schoolhouse was already in use, there were as the century waned. A Methodist Church appeared in 1863, more two hotels, a few houses and a store. The public houses were stores opened, pubs were welcomed, bakers rose early to provide the Steam Packet Hotel with David Moon the first licensee and for the residents and the Mood brothers were building coaches. The Settlers Arms, with Robert Martin as publican. The former The stone courthouse in Mary Street was built in the late 1870s, remained in the locality until 1978 when it was demolished, but the replacing the earlier watch house constructed in the same street latter site has a history punctuated by fire. The Settlers Arms was in 1861. A School of Arts was erected in the 1890s at a period destroyed by fire in 1872, after which the land was left vacant until when the village was in decline, having recently lost the battle for

47 commercial supremacy with Albion Park.6 Stella Maris Catholic School was established in the 1950s to cater to the Roman Catholic villager’s children.

From the late 19th century through to the 21st century, the Shellharbour streetscape changed with the demolition of old buildings making way for new stores, shops, offices, restaurants and clubs. No longer a village by the sea, Shellharbour has become a busy commercial and retail centre. It remains a popular tourist destination in the summer months and when the streets are thronged with visitors it regains some of its former holiday atmosphere.

New Royal H o t e l , Shellharbour, c.1905. The Shell Garage, Shellharbour, 1926, built by Ted Thomas building to the and leased by Frank Crew and later by his brother Alf. left is the Steam (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Packet Inn. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

The original Ocean Beach Hotel, Shellharbour, c.1935. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

Albion Park Commercial Hotel on fire, 1954. The vacant site was purchased by Shellharbour Council and named the L.R. Mood Park in 1969. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

48 12. FROM HERE TO THERE Transportation in rural Australia in the 19th and early 20th centuries Bridges and Roads was a long, uncomfortable, dusty journey. Travelling from one place Whilst he waterways of the area initially formed natural barriers they to another, even just a few kilometres, was often difficult because subsequently enhanced access and encouraged development. there were few, if any, man-made roads, mostly just simple bush Bridges and roads have been constructed since the incorporation tracks along which to travel. These tracks were rough and dusty in of the municipality in 1859, shortening travel times and enabling dry periods and muddy quagmires when wet; journeys throughout the region. Macquarie travelling could be perilous, with many losing Rivulet was bridged in 1858 and a bridge over the their way and dying in the bush. Minnamurra River was erected in 1872, although it had been serviced by a privately operated punt since th In the early 19 century, Shellharbour was 1861. The bridging of Lake Illawarra, the northern accessible only on foot or horse through the boundary of the municipality and the nearest access dense scrub from Campbelltown or Appin, point for people from the north, was not completed (although the rivers and escarpment were until 1938. Consequently, Warilla’s holiday character often impossible to negotiate), and later by did not begin to change until the 1940s.1 boat to the port at Shellharbour. Transporting goods to market before the introduction of Ben Rixon had cleared an old Aboriginal track up the the railway lines in the Shellharbour City Pass many years before the road was actually formed area was undertaken via ship departing in the late 1890s.2 The opening of Macquarie Pass from the port at Peterborough/Shellharbour in 1898 enabled ready conveyance of people and from the mid 1850s. (Refer to the Shipping goods between the coastal plain and the highlands theme “Sea Lanes” for further information.) over the top of the escarpment, representing a locally Horse and bullock teams were employed significant step in the development of transportation to cart produce to the port, crawling along in Shellharbour City area. the main north-south or east-west tracks of the rugged Illawarra. Transporting supplies The proliferation of the motor car in the 20th century and people into the Shellharbour area was Horse and cart load of blue metal coming out revolutionsed how people travelled and the distances almost as difficult; goods and passengers of Dunmore Quarry, c.1905. (Shellharbour they could easily cover. Today motor vehicles remain were conveyed to the port at Shellharbour Images, SCC). the preferred option, particularly as public transport from Sydney. Alighting at the pier they would into and around Shellharbour area is limited. thence travel on bullock wagons, horse drawn vehicles, (drays, lorries, spring carts, buggies or wagons), or even on foot to their destination.

49 Road and Water Transport Dapto, but the most famous service is that of the Lady Albion. Preceding motor vehicles were a handful local, privately operated Tourists boarded at the Windang Street jetty for a trip around Lake horse-drawn coach services. Early tourists were transferred from Illawarra, taking in Gooseberry Island and Lake Entrance, before the port or the railhead via horse-drawn coach to their destinations. dropping some at guest houses or holiday spots on the lake and The Timbs and Prior families provided limited services in the 19th returning others to the embarkation point to further their journeys.4 century, with the Mood brother’s manufacturing coaches locally from Shellharbour and later Albion Park; by 1879 a daily coach Iron Rails was arriving from Sydney at the Royal Hotel in Shellharbour Like shipping before it, the coming of the railway to the Illawarra was Village. These professionals were rendered obsolete in the early a major boon to the local economy and was the mode of transport that really brought the Shellharbour area economic prosperity and longevity. The impact of the railway was profound. Not only did it connect Shellharbour to Sydney enabling primary producers to access their market more efficiently, it brought tourist trade. Tourism has been instrumental in the development of the region in the 20th and 21st centuries.

Gabriel Timbsʼ coach after picking up passengers from Albion Park Station, 1905. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). 20th century when motor vehicles arrived, replacing horse drawn passenger coaches with motorised omnibuses and coachbuilders with motor repair garages. The first service station appeared in Tongarra Road, Albion Park in 1923, owned and operated by the Railway bridge, Albion Park, c.1908. (Shellharbour Harris family; Shellharbour received its first motor repair garage in Images, SCC). 1926 when Edward Thomas opened his doors in Addison Street.3 Barry Brownlee was a well known local who ran bus services from The majority of freight was handled by sea until the late 19th century, Albion Park for many years. but the vagaries of coastal weather hampered shipping along the south coast of NSW and resulted in frequently unreliable services. Ferry services are also a form of local transportation that has not These transportation problems led to local agitation in the early continued into the 21st century. There were ferry services from

50 1870s for the construction of a railway line from Sydney, through were ready in advance of it. The Clifton, (later South Clifton), to the Illawarra, to Kiama. The estimated cost discouraged private Wollongong portion was opened in June 1887.6 enterprise from financing the venture, however the need was still great and agitation continued.5 The third section of line to be contracted was the part that entered the Shellharbour City area, as far as the northern banks of the After continual representations from the people at Shellharbour Macquarie Rivulet. The contract was let to Proudfoot and Logan (who had, after all, lobbied the government successfully for the construction of Macquarie Pass),the government finally agreed to erect a line through the Illawarra. The route was surveyed William & Janet Stanford, the railway gate keepers and laid out through some of the most difficult terrain in the state. at the Tongarra Rd/Oak It was altered before, during and after construction to create a Flats Rail Crossing, c.1925. more manageable line using the easiest possible gradients and (Shellharbour Images, SCC). straightest route. Construction began on the Illawarra line in 1882, with the first portion of track opened for service between Sydney and Hurstville in October 1884. Bureaucratic bungling led to delays and a change in contractor in 1884, however the line continued to move forward and the next section between Hurstville and Sutherland was opened in December 1885. The following segment of the line was delayed due to the difficult landscape and sections beyond Oak Flats Railway Gate House, Kingston St, Oak Flats, c.1925. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

with work commencing at the end of 1883 using a largely immigrant Italian workforce. The contract for the fourth section between Macquarie Rivulet and North Kiama was later given to Monie and Company, and the whole area from Wollongong to North Kiama was opened in November 1887. Stations and signal boxes on this section of line included: Wollongong, Crossing, Unanderra, Dapto Watertank, Dapto, Albion Park, (later Yallah), Shellharbour Railway Station, Dunmore, 2000. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Oak Flats, (later Albion Park), Shellharbour and North Kiama, (now

51 Bombo). The final section of the line to Bomaderry was opened for January 1913. Shellharbour Station, (which is in fact at Dunmore), traffic in June 1893.7 was constructed three miles distant from the resort village of the same name and opened in 1887.11 The construction of the line in the Shellharbour City area was relatively free of trouble and was constructed with comparative A cream stage known as Oak Flats was open for less than a year, ease considering the problems experienced on other portions of (January through September 1890), and situated at the Shellharbour the line. Long timber viaducts were erected over the Macquarie Road level crossing. In 1925 a passenger platform was opened at Rivulet and Minnamurra River and a tunnel bored between Oak the same site. Also in 1925 the cream stage at Croome opened Flats and Shellharbour.8 To reduce the incline through Stoney near the northern portal of the small tunnel; later listed as a station Range, a tunnel was constructed at Croome, which now has the for passenger stops, it closed after a few years.12 happy distinction of being the shortest railway tunnel in NSW.9 In 1923 a small line was linked to the main line at Shellharbour Station The first railway station in the vicinity of Shellharbour was opened in to allow the new quarry at Dunmore to access the rail network. 1887 and although initially known as Albion Park, was changed to Minnamurra Station was located outside Dunmore House,13 the Yallah where it was sited.10 Albion Park Station at Albion Park Rail, residence of the Fuller family, and opened on 23 December 1891. was initially called Oak Flats, but changed to its current name in A new steel bridge was constructed over the Minnamurra River in 1888. A township grew about the station in the 1920s and Station 1923, replacing the old timber one. The death knell sounded for Road was constructed at this time to link the railway station with the small Minnamurra Station during investigations into railways in Albion Park, the commercial centre of the period. The Illawarra the early 1940s when it was discovered that the station serviced Central Co-Operative Dairy Company siding was opened nearby in a single family whilst a considerable population was sited at the southern side of the river mouth; the station was consequently moved there in 1943.14

Up, Up and Away In the 1920s flights to the Shellharbour City area were often landed in Stapleton’s paddock on Tongarra Road, which provided a perfect space for the landing of an aircraft. As the area developed an airport was eventually inevitable, but it did not appear until WWII. In 1942 an airstrip was constructed south of the Macquarie River Bridge at Albion Park Rail as part of the Illawarra defence plan.15 The airstrip was built on resumed land by the Civil Construction Steam train hauling blue metal from Dunmore Quarry, c.1930, for the building of Sydney Harbour Bridge. (Shellharbour Images, Corps for RAAF pilot training and the defence of the steelworks SCC). at Port Kembla.16 The airstrip never saw much action and it was eventually given back to the owners at the end of hostilities.17

52 After the War the runways were developed for civil aviation. In 1952 South Coast Airways established an air service from the aerodrome, flying between Sydney and Melbourne via the South Coast and Bairnsdale. This was the first in a series of commuter air services that used the airport at Albion Park, continuing into the 21st century when QantasLink commenced daily commuter air services between the Illawarra Regional Airport and Melbourne from May 2005.18

In 1960 the Shellharbour Municipal Council was granted permissive occupancy of the site and facilities and later obtained ownership under the Commonwealth Aerodrome Local Ownership Plan. Council have leased the airport variously for pilot training school, aircraft maintenance operations and air shows. The aerodrome’s moment of glory came in 1970 when Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip, flew into Albion Park Airport, (as it was then known), on 10 April 1970 as part of their commemorative tour recognising th the 200 Anniversary of Captain Cook’s landing at Botany Bay.20 Queen Elizabeth II and Mayor Beaton at Albion Park Airport, Crowds thronged the little terminus in an effort to catch a glimpse 10th April 1970. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). of the royal couple and loyal monarchists swooned as the Queen bestowed the crowd with her customary enigmatic smile and mechanical wave.

In 1993 a new passenger terminal was constructed along with a restaurant, preceding a major upgrade in 2002 which culminated in the relocation of the Historical Aircraft Restoration Society from Bankstown. In 2005 the first major upgrade to the main north- south runway was undertaken, allowing heavier aircraft to use the facility.19

Launch of Air Facilities Airline, Albion Park Airfield, 24th February 1997. (Shellharbour Images, SCC).

53 13. LEST WE FORGET The second half of the 19th century saw Shellharbour’s first their Kiama counterparts in 1888. The opposition jumped from the involvement with a foreign war with the commencement of hostilities train and invaded Albion Park;1 quite a spectacle for the citizens of in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870. From this time throughout the Shellharbour, being the first and last invasion they would ever see. 20th century, Shellharbour people were involved in the war efforts for every major battle, including the Boer War, World Wars I and The popularity of military activity in Shellharbour had highs and II, Korea and Vietnam. A recurrent theme in Shellharbour and the lows during the late 19th century. Military groups formed in support world over, no place was too small to be unaware or unaffected by of the Empire and disintegrated only to be reformed again. This conflict; men enlisted and were sent to face an enemy they didn’t was not surprising when there was little call for their services. know, and frequently didn’t understand. Women did what they These colonial forces were far removed from the action and of could, helping in various war effort schemes, knitting, cooking, little consequence to the war leaders of the Empire. The Illawarra fund raising and keeping the country alive by working all the jobs corps did see some action during the great maritime strike of 1890, left vacant by men. All of them worried and waited. Memorials to travelling to Sydney to help keep order.2 war and Australian warriors dot the Shellharbour landscape as a silent testimonial to the bravery and commitment of Shellharbour The next battle to pique interest in Shellharbour was the Boer War residents. – a war which cost 500 Australian lives and which saw Australian troops initially engaged in active service in a foreign country by Shellharbour pioneers were fiercely proud of their Anglo-Saxon the vanity of one man, the irascible Captain Charles Cox. Conflict heritage and alleigance to Britain. It was not surprising then that between the Afrikaners of the Transvaal and Orange Free State Shellharbour loyalists, (especially at the settlements of Macquarie and the British in South Africa had been rapidly gaining momentum Rivulet/Tullimbar), fearing for the safety of the “mother country” in and in 1899 it reached boiling point. War was inevitable and Britain the Franco-Prussian War, resolved to join voluntary rifle and cavalry began preparations to send troops to crush the Boers and reassert corps when these movement started in Australia. Within a month control; requests for troops from the Colonies were made.3 of the commencement of warfare 40 men from Albion Park and Tullimbar and 22 from Shellharbour had enrolled in the Illawarra The first colonial unit, Cox’s lancers, arrived in Cape Town from Light Horse Corps – possibly the first to form in NSW. With much London on 2 November 1899; the following month they were local praise these energetic partisans drilled, galloping across the reinforced by soldiers from Australia and London. Cox’s entire lush meadows of the Illawarra and becoming well known throughout contingent did not stay, with the young and objectors travelling the district in the process. Without any call to action, enthusiasm back to Sydney where they were welcomed by a jeering mob who waned quickly and the Illawarra corps faded into inactivity. Captain thought all soldiers should fight for the Empire. The situation of Weston, the original instigator and a local hero was not to be Cox’s lancers was hotly debated in Sydney where some defended beaten and re-formed the corps in 1885. This new group seemed citizen soldier’s rights to refuse to fight in a foreign war whilst others to have a fine time playing war, even enjoying a mock battle with thought they were duty-bound to participate. The NSW Government

54 was by now raising contingents of men to fight in South Africa, but Atchison’s company was on outpost duty at Enselin from 10 they would fight on their own terms, not as part of the British army December 1899 – 30 January 1900. Converted to Mounted Rifles as some had envisioned. By early 1900 the war was not going well on 1 February, the company joined Major Clements at the relief for the British and many of the earlier dissenters now enlisted to of Colesberg. Atchison was killed on 20 February 1900, probably assist the Empire, some voluntarily and others under duress.4 at Woolvefontein, South Africa during a Boer attack on the British Arundel camp.6 “Sammy” Atchison was the only casualty on that day, being struck by shrapnel from a Boer shell that exploded close Private Atchison by fatally wounding him and killing his horse instantly. He lived but Shellharbour native, Samuel Charles Atchison, was a quiet, devout a few hours and was accorded a military funeral and buried by his Presbyterian who was born at Bass Point in 1877 to an Irish father fellow infantrymen. Private Atchison was the 21st Australian solider and English mother. Spending his early years with his to die in the conflict and the first from the Illawarra. He was 24 family farming at Bass Point, as a teenager he moved years old.7 to Carlingford to work as an orchardist. Atchison was prominent in the Presbyterian churches at Epping Memorials to Atchison appeared in newspapers and Carlingford, teaching Sunday school as he had in Sydney, Carlingford and Shellharbour. done in Shellharbour. A well liked, quiet and athletic Memorial services were held in the Epping man, Atchison joined the Scottish Rifles as an Presbyterian Church and in May 1900 a font infantryman; he was a citizen soldier and donned his placed in the church to commemorate his death. kilt but a few hours per week for practice – in no way The Shellharbour people took “…steps towards a professional. Nonetheless, when NSW decided to perpetuating the name of Private S.C. Atchison, send men to the front, Atchison immediately enlisted of the Scottish Rifles..” and held a meeting to in the NSW Infantry, the only NSW infantry unit to be ensure his name stayed “evergreen”.8 Through sent to South Africa, arriving on 6 December 1899 at public subscription the first war memorial in Cape Town.5 Shellharbour was erected to Private S.C. Atchison. The monument was moved from its “…Poor Atchison, who lost his life the other day, was original location on the northern bank of Little killed by a shrapnel shell…The shell burst right opposite Park at Shellharbour in 1957 due to erosion his chest, on the horse’s neck killing the horse instantly, and and placed in its current position in Caroline the poor fellow received the shrapnel in almost every part Chisholm Park, Addison Street Shellharbour.9 A of his body, completely disembowelling him. He died in a few hours….The deceased was the quietest young fellow in The grave of Samuel Atchison, commemorative service was held by Albion Park the contingent, liked and respected by us all, for he was an Albion Park Pioneer Cemetery, 1980. and Warilla RSL Sub-Branches in conjunction (Shellharbour Images, SCC). obliging and respectable young man.” with Shellharbour City Council on 20 February 2000.10 An extract from a letter penned by Private John Millington,

printed in the Sydney Morning Herald, n.d.

55 The first great war of the 20th century saw another military unit from Shellharbour journey to Sydney. The first unit travelled to Sydney in August 1914 and in 1917 another 250 men from Albion Park Colonel Colin Fuller, enlisted in the Light Horse Company and many of the local reserve of the 6th Australian rifle corps, (formed in the early 1890s), also signed up. Locals did Light Horse, c.1915. their best to support Australian troops overseas, raising money and (Shellharbour Images, subscribing to war loans. The Albion Park War Chest Committee SCC). raised funds, sent clothes and welcomed returned soldiers.11

Colonel Fuller Colin Dunmore Fuller, as his name suggests, was at Dunmore known as “Bobs”. Two years later Fuller took the one of the 14 children Illawarra Light Horse into camp in Sydney just after WWI began and born to George Laurence was soon shipped to the frontline. Fuller left the 28th Light Horse Fuller and his wife Sarah at and joined the 6th of the Australian Imperial Force, (AIF), and was Dunmore. The Fuller family later promoted to Major before leaving for the Front. were instrumental in the development of the area and Fuller’s leadership and personal skills ensured he excelled in his became locally famous as a military command posts, acting in higher roles when the need arose result. Colonel Colin Fuller and always performing well, looking out for the safety of his men. was an illustrious military Well respected, Fuller received commendations and medals for his man, dashing in his uniform achievements in WWI at the Battle of Romani, and at Katia. Upon and climbing the ranks to his return to Shellharbour, Fuller took over the reigns at Dunmore Colonel before the end of and was forced to sell in the late 1940s, moving to Sydney where WWI. he spent his last few years, dying in 1953.12

Fuller had enlisted in the “When the news came through that Germany had accepted the Sergeant C.V. Ziems with another unknown st sergeant, 1914. (Shellharbour Images, 1 Australian Light Horse Armistice terms of the Allies, great excitement reigned yesterday. The SCC). in 1905, but when the 28th little folk of the schools turned out with waving flags and cheered. (Illawarra) Light Horse was It will stand a memorable day in history after years for them. The churches and school bells range [sic], quarry whistles blew and established in 1912 on the recommendation of Lord Kitchener, bunting was displayed everywhere.” Fuller was transferred to become the first commanding officer. 13 All had to supply their own mount, and Fuller rode a horse bred Anon, 19/11/1918, Kiama Independent Another local WWII veteran was Brian Rafferty, who worked as a

56 as a valuable tool. Owen attempted to interest the military in his invention in 1939, but was told there was little use for his submachine gun. Disheartened, Owen had enlisted to serve as a soldier, but his life took an unexpected twist when Vincent Wardell, manager of Lysaght, Port Kembla, took an interest in Owen and his gun.14

”To say that he [Evelyn Owen] influenced the outcome of the war is an understatement. In the jungles of the Pacific theatre, the submachine gun was in its element.”15

Wardell recruited help from his friend and BHP director, Essington Lewis, and was instrumental in the recognition of the gun’s potential and its manufacture for use in the WWII campaign.16 Owen was Red Cross Nurses at Albion Park, c.1915. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). transferred from the Australian Imperial Forces in mid 1941 and wireless operator in a Lancaster bomber. Shot down over France began work at Lysaght’s to assist in the manufacture of his gun. The in 1944, Rafferty parachuted to safety in a French forest and a few following year the gun was put to work against the Japanese in New weeks later made his escape with the assistance of a 16-year old Guinea. Over 45,000 Owen submachine guns were manufactured Resistance fighter. In an interesting footnote to this story, Rafferty during WWII and used in subsequent hostilities including Korea and and the un-named Resistance member met in Albion Park in 1988 Vietnam.17 Owen was paid for his work in 1946, but almost half of at the Anzac Day reunion. his earnings and royalties were taken from him in tax, leaving him in a parlous financial situation.18 The Digger’s Gun Developed at Brewster’s Garage (cnr Tongarra Rd & Terry St, After the end of WWII, Owen lived out his days in a little shack at the Albion Park) with parts manufactured in a small local engineering base of Macquarie Pass. Owen is recalled by many who remember shop, one of the most important technical achievements in WWII, the war, including family, friends, neighbours and those that worked the “Digger’s Gun” (or Owen Gun), was invented and developed at Lysaght’s factory. He was said to be a quiet, unassuming by local veteran and gun enthusiast, Evelyn Ernest Owen. With young man, however his attractive countenance hid inner demons, unprecedented accuracy and range, combined with its durability suicidal tendencies and a penchant for alcohol which eventually led and reliability, the Owen Gun was a most useful tool in the tough to his early death. Evelyn Owen died at the age of 33 in 1949; an conditions often encountered by troops. Tested in water, mud and unrecognised genius in his own life time, today he is remembered sand, the Owen Gun outperformed all its counterparts from leading as a star of the Illawarra who changed the course of WWII in the 19 western nations. The invention was improved by Owen during the Pacific. 1930s, but like many new devices was not immediately recognised

57 29 enemy aircraft.20 Caldwell didn’t relish his imposing nickname, but it stuck and seemed to be appropriate as he was First Lft. Bert E. precise in his craft, rarely returning from Weston, c.1945. missions with any ammunition left. He ( S h e l l h a r b o u r attempted to leave the RAAF in 1945 Images, SCC). as part of the ‘Morotai Mutiny’ in which seven officers tendered their resignations in protest against the RAAF’s role in the latter stages of WWII. His outstanding record saved him from a court martial and he was honourably discharged in 1946. Caldwell died in 1994.21

John Martin Hazelton (and girlfriend), c.1940 at Shellharbour, who died in New Guinea in 1942 while on “Killer” Caldwell active service. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Famous Wing Commander, Clive “Killer” Caldwell, has also been adopted as a local hero by Albion Park. Caldwell lived in Albion Defence Installations Park as an infant in the mid 1910s for a few years whilst his father The vast area still available in the Shellharbour region during WWII managed the Albion Park allowed the construction of defence installations in the locality, G a b r i e l Branch of the English, J o s e p h including an airstrip, training camp and observatory post. In 1942 T i m b s , Scottish and Australian an airstrip was constructed south of the Macquarie River Bridge c.1945 who Bank. The memories at Albion Park Rail as part of the defence of the Illawarra.22 It joined the of residents of the era was constructed on resumed land, (which was part of the original RAAF as are incongruous to grant to Andrew Allen named Waterloo), by the Civil Construction ground staff Caldwell’s deadly middle in 1939 and Corps for RAAF pilot training and the defence of the steelworks served in name. Famed in Albion at Port Kembla.23 The airstrip never saw much action and it was the Pacific Park for riding his tricycle given back to the owners at the end of hostilities,24 becoming the t h e a t r e , along the footpath in commercial aerodrome for the region. There was also said to be particularly front of his father’s an army training camp at Barrack Point, although little information B o r n e o . bank, this innocent boy (Shellharbour is available. The WWII observation post is believed to have been I m a g e s , grew into Australia’s at Dunster’s Hill, where lookouts were posted to send information of SCC). top fighter pilot during any enemy sighting to the gun battery at Port Kembla, known as Hill WWII, downing almost

58 60. To aid the transfer of information a cable was run under Lake The Warilla RSL Sub Branch, (with headquarters on Shellharbour Illawarra to Hill 60.25 Rd, Warilla), has a granite cenotaph with memorial garden and a columbarium containing ashes of local returned servicemen and women; 70 veterans are recorded on this memorial. Honour rolls, RSL Clubs a field gun, anchor and propeller at Albion Park RSL, the artillery RSL clubs in Shellharbour at Albion Park and Warilla stand as gun at Warilla RSL and the honour rolls at the Centenary Hall, memorials to fallen soldiers from the locality and an opportunity Albion Park, also stand as silent memorials to all armed conflicts for ex-servicemen to remember their comrades, commemorate involving Australian soldiers in the 20th century. Memorial plaques their supreme sacrifice, whilst enjoying the social aspects of the containing sand from Gallipoli were introduced to the area in 2005 at association. The Albion Park RSL Sub-Branch was formed on 25 Shellharbour City Centre, organised by ex-servicemen from Albion May 1944 and after much effort, erected a clubhouse known as the Park and Warilla RSL Sub-Branches. These are new memorials to Albion Park Memorial Hall and Club on the corner of Hamilton and Shellharbour’s lost citizens and its role in world conflicts of the 20th Tongarra Roads, which was completed in 1953 and opened on 21 century.27 March that year. Memorial gates, with bronze plaque, were added

WWII observation post below Dunsterʼs farm, “The Hill”, as it was in 1991. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). in 1959. The club was largely destroyed by fire in April 1970, but rebuilt the same year. A new club replaced the old in 2000 on the corner of Hamilton and Taylor Roads.26 The Albion Park RSL Sub- Branch Memorial Garden was demolished at this time.

59 14. LENDING A HAND “Work such as this great and noble woman did ought never to be This small snippet is a sign of the times in which Mrs Chisholm forgotten, least of all in places like Shellharbour where she did so worked, when women were not expected to take on public roles or 1 much for settlement.” have a political position. Nevertheless, Caroline Chisholm continued with her campaign, supported wholeheartedly by her husband. The first instance of social welfare in the Shellharbour area was the settlement of impoverished families on clearing leases organised Mrs Chisholm realised that she could not find work and lodgings by Caroline Chisholm. A woman of powerful inner substance, and for all the needy in Sydney Town. She began looking further afield, an even more imposing physical presence, Chisholm made her initially taking a small group of charges to other settlements then mark in the relatively young colony in the mid 19th century by aiding out into the countryside, finding work and lodging for them along immigrants who found themselves in a foreign land struggling the way. These small groups of perhaps 10 women grew into the under the weight of too many immigrants and not enough work or hundreds and to include men, women and children on subsequent means of subsistence. missions.4

Caroline Chisholm arrived in Australia from India with her family The commercial depression of the early 1840s saw Chisholm’s and ailing husband in 1838 in a hope that the drier air and sunshine work become ever more difficult. Chisholm oft lamented the of Sydney would benefit her husband’s health. Confronted by mass of land in the colony that was unavailable for use by a large the plight of young female immigrants, her devout Christian percentage of the population due to high handed and exclusive land sensibilities could not bear the thought of young women having to laws governed by men in Downing St, London. At a British Select turn to the seedy profession of prostitution to survive. Her charity Committee meeting in 1843, (called to enquire into the reasons first extended to these desperate souls before encompassing men for the Colony’s economic distress), Chisholm told the committee and later whole families. Initially, working from her own home, her that people emigrate to “live and have land”, and that she had philanthropy entailed finding homes and work for young women, been in contact with large landholders who were willing to assist but as more and more arrived in the colony she realised that a more in her experiments to settle families. This first experiment was established system of aid was necessary. Her pleas to community supported by Captain Robert Towns of Shellharbour who agreed and government eventually paid off with monetary and voluntary to let her have 4000 acres of land in Shellharbour on easy terms assistance from the community and some property assistance from and to provide rations for the families placed there for five months.5 Governor Gipps. Her purpose and determination impressed Gipps, (Towns had already settled 14 English and Scottish families in 1836- who noted Chisholm as:2 37 in a similar scheme developed by Dr. John Dunmore Lang. The original settlers were required to clear the land and many eventually “…a handsome stately young woman, who proceeded to reason the became property owners themselves).6 question, as if she thought her reason, and experience, too, worth as much as mine”.3

60 Having given the new settlement scheme much thought and planning, in December 1843 Chisholm travelled with her charge “Wollongong’s southern suburbs already suffer from many physical of 23 families to Shellharbour to settle them on Captain Towns’ and social problems which stem from their low economic status and land.7 To assist further, Towns engaged a schoolmaster to teach the fact that rapid urban growth there has far outstripped public planning and investment. These deficiencies…are greatest in the the settlers’ children and two Bushmen to counsel them on clearing Shellharbour area.”10 and cropping the land.8

The Shellharbour experiment was a huge success and the families The population at this time boomed with young families, many of soon became self-sufficient. Further experiments continued and immigrant background, moving into the area to take advantage of Chisholm carried on her charitable work for immigrants whilst industrial jobs (at Port Kembla Steelworks or related industries) living in Australia and London until the early 1860s when her and housing was provided by commission estates. Coupled with health prevented her from continuing. Mrs Chisholm had not only this low economic status was the propensity to leave school early, physically assisted immigrants who had arrived in Australia, but narrowing chances of change. The families were large and the assisted their passage to the Colony from Britain, and importantly problem of housing and services great. Serious efforts were made had made inroads into the political aspects of, and attitudes to, to place people in accommodation near work (not unlike Caroline immigration and social welfare. Her influence was even felt in Chisholm over a century before) and provide opportunities for Europe and her endeavours were recognised in her lifetime as they social and economic improvement. These estates were principally are in death. Caroline Chisholm died in London on 27 March 1877 established to support established industry and provide a starting having assisted well over 11,000 documented people, (probably base for employees, rather than being part of a larger welfare twice that number in reality) in Australia. Caroline Chisholm and package for the unemployed (as is more common in NSW). This her social work in the Illawarra and Australia have been honoured is an important distinction that sets these estates apart from other in Shellharbour village with a park (in Addison Street), named as housing commission developments in the State. a tribute. A monument to her efforts also stands in the Tongarra Museum. The Shellharbour Mutual Improvement Society was a local progress association which aimed to support the growth and development of the community, becoming involved in all aspects of society, Housing Commission including basic facilities and entertainment. Similar to Caroline Chisholm’s efforts in Shellharbour was the more recent Commonwealth housing commission scheme. Housing Social and Welfare Groups Commission activity after WWII concentrated on developments on th large estates, one of which was at Warilla. In the early 1970s more Social welfare groups of the 19 century were indicative of prevailing than a quarter of the total Shellharbour population were Housing attitudes at the time. They fulfilled a valuable social and welfare role Commission residents, profoundly affecting the social demographic in rural communities and were well supported. Examples of these of the area:9 are the Shellharbour Total Abstinence Society and the Sons of Temperance – Allowrie Division, both extolling the Christian virtue

61 of restraint. The Sons of Temperance constructed their own hall, the Temperance Hall, (later the Empire Hall), for society activities on the south-east corner of Addison and Sophia Streets, Shellharbour in 1882/3.11 The Albion Park Red Cross catered lunches and morning teas at the Albion Park Cattle Sales for almost 40 years.

62 15. MUNICIPAL MOMENTS For the first 50 years of the Colony life was fairly primitive and the under the auspices of the 1858 Act. There was a warm response administrative focus was on managing the convict system and to self-government in the Shellharbour locality with 200 residents staving off immediate starvation. The Colonial Administration signing the petition to incorporate the municipality at The Settlers did provide basic services, but for the most part life was fairly Arms in Shellharbour - a stark contrast to the tepid response to the disorganised. There is no evidence of a community desire for legislation in many other areas of the state.3 The first councillors self-government, and it was the Colonial Government who finally were elected on 21 June with Mr. W. Wilson taking the honours as pushed for it. The Colonial Government wanted to shed the first Mayor; other pioneer families represented on Council included expense of services that were deemed to be of purely local benefit the Moles, McGill, Russell, Collins, Martin, James and Dunster and it was believed that locals families.4 needed to accept responsibility for self-taxation that was necessary to The first council meeting was pay for local improvements.1 held at the old Shellharbour schoolroom on 22 July 1859. Various attempts to introduce A more suitable room was municipal self-government failed later leased by the Council in the 1840s due to a lack of from Edward Graham at the public support. But in the 1850s Peterborough Store (corner the public began to realise that Mary and Addison Streets) central legislature could not fairly until the council chambers provide for all settlers, (town and were constructed in Addison rural dwellers). Consequently Street. The first purpose-built municipal incorporation gained chambers in Addison Street were increasing community support. constructed by stonemason Further attempts for municipal Matthew Dinning using local The first aldermen and town clerk of the newly established Shellharbur incorporation were thwarted Municipal Council, 1870. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). basalt in 1865 and the first until the Municipalities Act was meeting was held there in passed on 28 October 1858, under which 37 municipalities were February 1866. These chambers closed in the late 1890s when incorporated. Flaws in this Act were rectified by the Municipalities council moved its headquarters to Albion Park. The move was Act 1867, which gained wider acceptance. Numerous amending forced by the transfer of the commercial centre to Albion Park after Acts followed to further refine local government.2 the railway came through the area in 1887. Shipping declined and with it the prestige of the harbour-side village. New chambers were The Municipality of Shellharbour was proclaimed on 4 June 1859 constructed in Tongarra Road (formerly Flinders Street) Albion Park,

63 on land purchased from Henry Fryer just east of the Post Office. residential centre of Warilla (corner of Shellharbour and Lake The weatherboard building (including hall, clerk’s office, library and Entrance Roads) to newly erected chambers. Meetings are still held there although the administrative offices of council outgrew the Warilla structure years ago and moved to Lamerton House in The first Shellharbour City Centre. Due to further legislative changes, the Shellharbour C o u n c i l C h a m b e r s as they stand today. (Shellharbour I m a g e s , SCC).

chambers) housed the first Council meeting in Albion Park on 23 December 1897.5 The Council Chambers in Albion Park were re- The official opening of the additions to the third Council modelled with the erection of a brick front entrance in 1953.6 Chambers, Albion Park, 9th January 1953. The building is now used as a Rural Fire Services administrative centre. In 1969 council moved once again, this time to the emerging (Shellharbour Images, SCC). municipality gained city status on 1 January 1996 and has been known as Shellharbour City Council ever since.7

On 3 November 2004, a full Council meeting of Shellharbour City Council was held at the Centenary Hall in Tongarra Road, Albion The second Park, 107 years after the Council first sat at Albion Park. The S h e l l h a r b o u r reason for the venue change was social, with Councillors deciding Council Chambers, that roving meetings throughout the wards of the local government at Albion area would be of benefit to the community.8 Park, c.1920. ( S h e l l h a r b o u r Images, SCC). Council has continued to manage the same area and boundaries since its inception, despite changes to governance legislations. Since its incorporation, Council has been responsible for the development of the locality as instructed in local government

64 legislation. Initially concentrating on the development of roads and bridges to increase local mobility and accessibility, the Council later turned its attention to the development of other services. These included water, electricity and sanitary conveniences as well as recreational facilities, libraries, cemeteries, and social and community amenities.

65 16. COMMUNICATION The isolation of the Shellharbour area in the 19th century hampered Post Masters changed frequently as the settlements developed. the transfer of information as well as people and produce. This led Post Offices offered varied services almost from their earliest to some distinctive initial communication devices and techniques; existence, and were often combined post and telegraph offices eventually newspapers, postal services and telephones were as well as branches of the Government Savings Bank and Money introduced bringing the world to Shellharbour. During the first years Order Offices. Work demands were often quite high as the Post of European settlement the Dunster’s Hill signal was an important and Telegraph Master was expected to run all available services communication tool in the local area. The Dunsters and other local as well as provide telegraph line maintenance when required and families used telescopes to search the horizon for ships entering to occasionally deliver mail. The first post office in the area was the Shellharbour port. A flag signal would be put up to spread the at Shellharbour itself. From at least 1857, postal distribution was word of the arrival of a vessel, and the information would be carried assumed by Michael Hassen, the teacher at the first small school in to schools so children could be used as messengers to alert their the port village. Hassen was paid the small sum of £12 per annum parents to the presence of a ship. One such telescope was donated allocated to rural mail distributors at the time. As the locality name to the Tongarra Museum by Joseph Smith of Cooby, and is held at "Peterborough" already existed in other states, the village name the museum in Russell Street, Albion Park.1 was changed to Shellharbour by the Postmaster General.3

Letters from Home Following Hassen’s death in 1858, Edward Graham took over the It is likely that mail travelled in and out of the Shellharbour locality via postal service which was conducted from his Peterborough Store ship from the port at Peterborough in the early years of settlement on the corner of Mary and Addison Streets, Shellharbour. Premises before the establishment of official post offices. Even so there are and postmasters changed frequently, and in 1871 the office was reports that early residents so inclined also undertook the journey moved to the end of Addison Street to Allen’s Store, where it to Dapto to collect and send mail. Many post offices started out life remained until 1949.4&5 Even after Mr. Walter Allen’s death in 1876, as small receiving offices until the population had grown sufficiently the Allen family, headed by Walter’s wife Charlotte, continued to to warrant upgrade to a full Post Office. Until the Post Office run the local postal services, which included delivering mails to was rendered official status, the Postmaster or Postmistress was outlying districts twice weekly; a telegraph service had been added responsible for providing premises from which to run the office. As by 1900.6 Mr. Jack Godfrey had been Postmaster at Dunmore, but a result, the norm was locals based in shops, schools or homes. in 1959 took over the Allen’s Post Office in Shellharbour. In 1964 Unofficial post office receiving depots were also a feature of rural the Post Office moved from the Allen’s store across Addison Street, life in 19th and early 20th century NSW. One such unofficial depot then a few doors east in 2005.7 was conducted by Mrs. Elizabeth Brownlee in the early 1900s at upper Yellow Rock; another operated in the early 1920s at the farm Albion Park was not far behind Shellharbour in the postal services owned by Mr. William McBarron.2 race. A post office opened at Albion Park in 1861 with Robert Popple as Postmaster. Like Shellharbour, premises and postmasters

66 changed frequently, with local dressmakers, storekeepers and Newspapers not only impart information but are valuable research teachers, like Mr. John Wilson, periodically filling the post.8 Wilson tool as they record events past, and provide an insight into a way of taught at Albion Park Public School in the early 1870s and in 1874 life that no longer exists. Papers offer clues about local and national took over the postal services of the area, partitioning off a small reaction to events in the world at large and locally. Throughout space in the school room to handle the mail and using his young the 19th century, weekly newspapers were a common feature charges to deliver mail to their parents on the way home.9 A of Australian life, regardless of location. Daily papers were not telephone was installed at the office in 1886 to transmit telegrams available in regional areas, so rural pioneers relied on weekly "rags" to the nearest Telegram Office at Kiama. Money Order facilities to keep abreast of events. Initially papers featured simple print and came the following year and by the end of the decade the telegraph advertisements, however as technology improved etchings and had finally been extended to Albion Park. A dedicated Post Office then photographs began highlighting articles. Technology has also building was constructed in Tongarra Road, Albion Park and opened changed paper publishing, influencing style, layout and content. in July 1895. A telephone exchange was opened in August 1911.10 In the 21st century, world news is reported almost instantaneously using information from the World Wide Web, but in times gone by Other Post Offices have popped up in the locality and then closed readers often had to put up with outdated information that was with the changing fortune of the settlements. The Tullimbar store carried to Australia by sea.14 held the first post office there from 1873 and was conducted by the store owner, Thomas Davis, for the residents of Tullimbar, Yellow The first newspapers available in the Shellharbour City area were Rock and Macquarie River. The office at Tullimbar closed and printed in Sydney and sometimes included news items about Kiama services were transferred to Tongarra in 1894/5 when the official and the locality. Examples include The Australian, The Sydney Post Office opened at Albion Park. At Marshall Mount, the post Herald, (becoming The Sydney Morning Herald in the 1840s), office was run by teacher John Banfield from January 1881.11 and The Empire. Periodicals also featured many articles on the Dunmore boasted an office from 1890; Lake Illawarra South had development of the Illawarra, including The Illustrated Sydney services from 1926; Oak Flats from the mid 1930s. Postal Services News, The Sydney Mail and The Australian Town and Country commenced in Warilla from 1955, with an official office operating Journal.15 from 1969 through to the present. Albion Park Rail and Barrack Heights also had offices, and another opened in Stocklands, (then The first broadsheet of the Illawarra was The Illawarra Mercury. Shellharbour Square), in the Shellharbour City Centre in 1986.12 Established in Wollongong by Thomas Garrett, the paper’s first edition was published in October 1855. The Kiama Examiner Extra. Extra! Read All About It! followed three years later and was published by Robert Barr; “Newspapers have played an integral part of [sic] Australian society. this paper was purchased by the Mercury in 1862. Mergers and Throughout our nation’s history, newspapers have appealed to acquisitions were characteristics of the newspaper industry. Many many different interest groups reflecting the history and diversity of papers were established in the 19th and early 20th centuries, 13 Australian society in terms of religion, politics, race and gender.” published for a short time before a larger or wealthier competitor made advances to purchase the paper. Most were absorbed into

67 the purchaser, although some papers were simply shut down, obituaries. At one point John O’Dwyer was also correspondent for effectively wiping out the competition; sometimes the names of the Lake Times.18 two merged papers were put together to make a new publication. Interestingly, when The Kiama Independent purchased The Kiama (For a full list of local newspapers see Appendix C). Reporter in 1920, the papers were published in tandem with alternating issues, “…making it necessary to read both to secure Radio Days consecutive news.” The Reporter was finally discarded in 1946 and The preferred form of entertainment in the first half of the 20th the Independent was published twice weekly. Some papers, like century was the wireless or radio. Radio telephony was established The Illawarra Mercury, have maintained a strong base and survived during WWI, with the first Australian transmission in 1919. The first the pitfalls of publishing from the mid 19th century for 150 years, but stations were established in 1923, although the new invention was others have fallen by the wayside quickly, for example The South not limited to authorised stations at this time and many amateurs Coast Chronicle and The Orbit lasted but three months each.16 broadcast recordings of music and personal rhetoric. The device was instantly recognised as a powerful communication tool for Joseph Weston, formerly a dairy farmer, took to editing and purposes of entertainment and the conveyance of information to established the very successful Kiama Independent in 1863. the masses. By the early 1940s – radio’s golden age - there were Robert Barr was in partnership with Weston and printed the about 130 commercial stations and about the same number of ABC paper until 1867 when he left Weston as the sole proprietor of the stations in operation. The commercial stations provided much local Independent. The following year Barr established The Kiama Pilot content, whereas the ABC stations were programming “culture”, with Mr. Logan, but by the end of the 1870s this venture had folded news, education and parliamentary broadcasts.19 The powerful tool and Barr returned to work at the Independent. Joseph Weston of radio has since diversified with modern talkback, easy listening died in 1913 leaving the running of the paper to his son, John. and alternative stations on both AM and FM bands continuing to The Kiama Independent, (retained by the Weston family into the compete with the ABC broadcaster. Long gone are the radio soap 21st century), remained a strong publication throughout the 20th operas that were favourites of many generations in the first half of century.17 Many papers have been published locally, some even the 20th century. within the bounds of the Shellharbour City area, although most have been published elsewhere in the Illawarra. The Lake Times is Throughout the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s, radio remained an integral printed in Shellharbour and provides local news in the 21st century. component of family life. Parents listened eagerly for news from the War Front and to the speeches of their favourite politicians. By Local correspondents often provided articles featuring locally far the most vivid memory most people have of radio in this period significant information for newspapers that were printed outside of are of the radio serials and quiz shows. The perennial favourites the Shellharbour City area, but widely read within the boundaries. Blue Hills and The Lawsons kept families entranced for years. Leo O’Dwyer, (publisher of the short lived Kiama Sentinel), and Children playing in the streets and lanes would race home as the his nephew John, both reported for the Kiama Independent, John sun set in time to help their parents listen to Pick a Box and other working for 45 years reporting sport news, district events and quiz shows. Ensconced around the Kosi stove, it was a time for

68 simple and wholesome family entertainment. During times of war, radio was a lifeline for women left behind. Desperate for news of loved ones, radio reports were often the only information available and provided a valuable thread of communication, linking families scattered across the globe.

Radio 2WL was established by Russell Yealdon in 1931, commencing transmission from his Wollongong home on 18 July 1931. The first local radio station of the Illawarra, (now known as Wave FM), served the Illawarra community from Wollongong to Kiama, eventually moving from its foundation base of Wollongong to Warrawong.20 Radio 2WL claims to have given the first Aboriginal woman, Gambanyi or Pearl Gibbs, the chance to broadcast on radio. A faithful Aboriginal rights campaigner, Gibbs' talk was aired in 1941.21

Shellharbour residents now enjoy three stations with significant local content; Radio ABC Illawarra (formerly 2WN) and I98-FM (formerly 2OO-AM) have joined the aforementioned in the latter 20th century. Despite inroads by television and the internet, radio remains a strong and vital component of the communications system.

69 17. SEASIDE RENDEZVOUS is frequently referred to as the first tourist in in relative peace. Nonetheless, it seemed inevitable that news of Shellharbour, based on his tour of the area in 1822.1 Decked out the beautiful Illawarra would leak out, and the Sydney broadsheets in trousers, frockcoat, waistcoat, cravat and top hat, Macquarie’s began speaking of the ideal seaside resort south of Wollongong, visit was far from a light-hearted holiday and his interests in the based on articles that were appearing in the Kiama Independent:2 area went beyond mere sight- seeing. Macquarie could not have “Comparatively few are aware envisaged the board-short and of the many delightful nooks and bikini-clad holiday-makers that corners and pleasant health- giving spots which are to be would follow him 150 years later found at Shellharbour….Nor (and would probably have been is Shellharbour more excellent scandalised had he been able to). on account of its rural beauty Despite their outward differences, than its healthiness…The the members of Macquarie’s party salubriousness of its atmosphere th and its delightful scenery and the sun-lovers of the 20 certainly deserve to be well- century fell in love with the same known to seekers of health and natural landscape and lingered recreation.” to enjoy the same lake, beaches and rivers. A popular recreation Anon, 22/11/1866, destination since the late 19th Kiama Independent3 century, the development of Shellharbour has been influenced From the 1860s onwards by holiday-makers almost as much tourists came in increasing Picnic group, c.1900. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). as farmers. numbers, attracted by the promises of scenic beauty and health-giving properties of the Before the Shellharbour area became known as a place for sunshine and seabreezes. At a time when infectious disease was Sydney-based tourists, the local population was developing a a serious concern and sanitary services in many areas rudimentary recreational pattern of their own largely based on the Victorian at best, Shellharbour was in an ideal position to promote itself as mania for picnicking. The Shellharbour foreshore, Dunster’s Hill a health spa. Sydney’s southern suburbs had been doing this for and Macquarie Pass offered exceptional picnicking grounds and some time and it seemed a natural progression that the Illawarra the local newspapers extolled the scenic virtues of the district on a would follow. Advertisements for Oak Flats in the 1930s pushed monotonously regular basis. Still too far from Sydney to be an easy the therapeutic aspects of the local landscape. The warm, muddy, day trip, Shellharbour locals were able to enjoy the region’s beauty incredibly salty waters of Lake Illawarra were said to rival the famous

70 Medlow Baths at the Hydro-Majestic Hotel in the Blue Mountains for either), which meant that tourists could purchase a return ticket its remedial properties. Before long, Lake Illawarra was filled with valid for 1 month for travel between Clifton and Nowra. This in turn ailing bodies basking in the warm shallows and congregating on the resulted in the establishment of the South Coast Tourist Union in grassy bank. Soothed by sun and salt, parents watched indulgently the late 1890s, promoting destinations from Thirroul to Nowra.7 as their children frolicked in the water.4 The introduction of the railway increased the amount of tourists Transport was, of course, the key to unlocking the power of in the district dramatically; conversely, it halted the expansion tourism for Shellharbour; first ships, then of Shellharbour village and brought trains, and finally cars brought visitors. shipping to a standstill. From the Advancements in shipping in the mid to 1890s, property and land sale late 19th century played a major part in at Shellharbour was focused on the future tourism of Shellharbour. The enticing tourists to buy land and build development of shipping technology in the weekenders. The area was advertised 1860s and 1870s, coupled with the port at as a “seaside resort with potential Peterborough, meant that vessels could for shell collecting” (a popular 19th transport produce and people in and out century pursuit), rock bathing and of Shellharbour in a more timely fashion.5 fishing.8 In 1892 William Mathie and Produce steamers began to carry more John Fraser released trout into the and more human cargo, particularly on Macquarie Rivulet for the benefit of weekends. The Peterborough Jetty saw locals and holiday-makers alike, the the arrival of many seasick travellers, spawn of which still exist and delight disgorged from the cramped confines of trout fisherman today.9 Prawning the steamers into the bracing sea air. became a popular pastime in Lake Swimming at the harbour, Shellharbour, c.1915. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Illawarra, the black nights lit by With the introduction of the railway in the lantern and laughter; partially lit faces late 1880s, Shellharbour’s isolation ended and the area became made a surreal picture on the dark skin of the water and snatches of easily accessible to the outside world. Macquarie Pass opened conversation drifted across the lake between prawning parties.10 in 1898 and quickly became one of the most popular picnic destinations. The cool forest ferns and towering trees were the Strangely, boating for leisure did not develop at Shellharbour until transition zone between the coast and the highlands and day-trips well into the 20th century. The Hacking and Georges Rivers, to from Albion Park to Macquarie Falls were a major local attraction.6 the south of Sydney, were alive with small watercraft in the late From 1898 the south coast was declared a tourist district by the 19th century, but the craze for rowing did not reach Shellharbour NSW Rail Commissioners (an august body of men who knew for some time. Certainly the difficulty of transporting small boats nothing about tourism and, some said, not much about railways to Shellharbour would have been a considerable deterrent in the

71 early days and there was no local boat-building industry in the 19th on display as the standard lady’s bathing costume was something century. It was not until the 1920s that a boat-builder set up shop in akin to knitted chain mail and threatened to drown it’s wearer in Oak Flats, building small pleasure craft. In the 1930s, a boat shed anything more than a few inches of water. Those that desired more was finally erected at the end of the small point at Central Park, Oak freedom of movement and could cope with a bit of sand in their Flats, where row boats could be hired.11 cossie – usually locals - forsook the human soup of the baths for the harbour.12 The Shellharbour village had developed into a picturesque seaside resort, well equipped to take advantage of the burgeoning Arbour Day celebrations in 1895 resulted in the planting of Norfolk tourist trade with its shops, hotels, Pines along the harbour-front; these guesthouses, banks and post magnificent trees have become such office. Always a busy trade port, an intrinsic part of the foreshore that the harbour became increasingly it is virtually impossible to imagine congested with private yachts and Shellharbour without them. They other small craft. The resumption were the first real attempt at formal of the Shellharbour seafront and landscaping of the foreshore and cemetery for recreation purposes added much to the setting of the in 1889 evidenced its growing village. From the 1890s onwards, popularity. Rock (or sea) baths tourists and holiday-makers flocked were highly desired as bathing to Shellharbour and its environs, in sea water was fashionable. attracted as ever by the sun, sea Many swimmers were horrified by and mountains.13 The proliferation nude bathers, who threw society’s of motor vehicles in the 1920s conventions to the wind and brought a new wave of tourists to enjoyed the harbour au naturel. A the district. The area was already successful campaign was mounted Lake Illawarra South, taken from the sand dunes at Warilla Beach, c.1925. known as an ideal summer holiday to enforce the wearing of proper (Shellharbour Images, SCC). place but motor cars, however costumes and protect the modesty slow, put Shellharbour within reach and sensibilities of all – a similar argument continues at many of day-trippers from Sydney’s south. Macquarie Rivulet and the beaches today! Rock baths were constructed between the jetty shores of Lake Illawarra remained the most popular destinations and the former cemetery in 1895. They were so popular that in and entrepreneurs pounced on these areas, snapping up land high summer every square centimetre was occupied with a bathing to build small weekenders as holiday-lettings. Many tourists still body and it was not possible to swim at all. The baths ran on a preferred to camp and in 1927 it was reported that there were 2000 strict gender-based schedule so that Victorian morality was not campers on the shore at Lake Illawarra South, all enjoying the undermined by the proximity of female flesh, not that much of it was fishing, bathing, boating and yachting (and presumably the noise of

72 other revellers).14 Surfing enjoyed increasing popularity in the 1920s Fibro and weatherboard cottages mushroomed, with everyone although picnicking remained the vying for position as close to the water as possible. Today, they number one holiday activity during are a potent reminder of the childhood summer holidays of several this period. In the 1930s, a brass generations of Australians and the rise of beach culture. Toddlers band played on the Shellharbour learnt to swim and build sand castles; teenagers wandered and seafront heightening the carnival learnt to love; parents put aside their daily cares and relaxed with atmosphere.15 friends and holiday acquaintances. Christmas meant sandy feet and peeling noses and hot sticky bodies crowded around a laminex By the late 1920s, camping was table for lunch. Prawns and fish rubbed shoulders with roast falling out of favour, particularly turkey and a scorching pudding and when the last zac had been amongst the growing middle- found, the family was replete. Adults slumbered through the hot class and a more salubrious type afternoons, punctuated by of accommodation was required. the banging of screen doors Harradine built the first boarding as perpetually energetic house of 40 rooms in 1929 at children charged between Lake Illawarra South, called house and beach. By the Clermont Guest House. Grocers, 1960s, beach holidays had butchers, a baker and a milkman become part of the fabric of came to service those holidaying Australian life, so much so The McIlqulhams on holiday at on the shores of the lake and that some families adopted Nimrod, Fisher St, Oak Flats, 1934. in 1930 the Ocean Beach Hotel it as a permanent lifestyle. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). opened at Shellharbour for tourist Weekend cottages became accommodation. Although much remodelled, the Ocean Beach week-day houses, were Hotel still enjoys the same panoramic view of the harbour.16 extended to accommodate growing families and From the 1920s, the entire district saw a proliferation in the eventually replaced with construction of holiday homes, first at Oak Flats but later more modern housing. encompassing Albion Park Rail, Lake Illawarra and from the Lake The holiday cottages that to Shellharbour, forming new townships as a result. The southern remain speak not only areas developed quicker than the north, which was still hampered of an important period in by difficult road access. In the mid 1920s, Windang (onthe Shellharbour’s history, northern side of the lake) was named with its southern counterpart but a seminal period in Fred McIlqulham on the shores of Lake prosaically named Lake Illawarra South. Regardless of the name, Australian life that continues Illawarra at Oak Flats, 1934. (Shellharbour people still flocked to vacation there.17 Images, SCC).

73 to influence us today. relatively static. It is only in recent years that Shellharbour’s potential for tourism has been formally recognised and a new form The development of holiday housing and then permanent of development touted as a result. The Shellcove development settlement provided the impetus for civic improvement throughout is expected to provide the impetus for future large-scale tourism the district. When the south coast was declared a tourist district development in the area. A proposed marina and foreshore in 1898, Shellharbour Municipal Council was able to request state development will include a new hotel, holiday apartments, government funding for the upkeep of roads – a considerable boon restaurants, retail and commercial ventures and recreational in a district that was permanently beset by transport problems. The facilities. For the first time in its long history, Shellharbour is making most notable civic improvement was the erection of a bridge over a break from the traditional low-key approach to family holidaying the mouth of Lake Illawarra between Windang and Warilla in 1938, and moving towards a highly formalised, economically driven style ensuring improved access from Sydney to Shellharbour. In 1955, of tourism. Only time will tell if this approach will be successful. the piers of this bridge were reconstructed in concrete.18 What is certain is that it will change forever the face of holidaying at Shellharbour.

Camp site on the banks of Lake Illawarra. Matthewʼs Boatshed and holiday cottage in Karoo Bay is visible at the rear of the picture, 1938. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). Throughout the 20th century tourism in Shellharbour remained North Shellharbour Beach in the 1950s. (Shellharbour Images, SCC). focussed on simple holiday experiences such as bushwalking, boating, swimming and fishing. Very little formalised tourism infrastructure was introduced and the area was not widely promoted as a tourist destination. Those who had always holidayed in Shellharbour continued to do so and tourism numbers remained

74 Keith Hockey teaching kids to swim at Shellharbour Pool, c.1955.

Shellharbour Surf Life Saving Club March Past Team, c.1957. Paul Shacklock surfing at Windang Island, 1964.

Surf patrol group at Warilla Beach, c.1969.

Shellharbour Pool (now the Beverley (All images from Shellharbour Images, SCC.) Whitfield Pool) in the 1950s. 75 Picnic at DʼArcy Dunster Park, Macquarie Rivulet, c.1930.

The Dunster family driving their buggies to a picnic spot, no date.

Picnic at Lake Illawarra foreshore, 1956.

Picnic group c.1900.

Picnic at Macquarie Pass, c.1915.

(All images from Shellharbour Images, SCC.) 76 Bill Muir, caretaker of Basset Park Caravan Park, Shellharbour, repairing tents on his sewing machine, c.1960.

Elliotʼs Campground, Warilla, c.1951. Foam from rough seas flowing through Basset Park Campground, Shellharbour, c.1955.

Basset Park Caravan Park, 1994.

Scout camp, c.1955.

(All images from Shellharbour Images, SCC.) 77 18. MODERNISATION By 1900, Albion Park had become the dominant commercial centre th in the region, exceeding Shellharbour in population, facilities and In time, the holiday-makers of the early 20 century also fell in love potential. Shipping had declined and the railway had arrived but with the idyllic holiday resort so much that they either moved in the landscape was still pastoral. Dairying predominated but tourism or built holiday homes, particularly at Oak Flats, Albion Park Rail, was growing steadily. From the late 19th through the 20th century Lake Illawarra and from the Lake to Shellharbour, creating new there was a gradual, but very apparent, change from agriculture townships as a result; the southern areas developed quicker than to residential expansion, light and extractive industries, and most the north which was still hampered by road-making difficulties. importantly for the development of the Shellharbour City area in the In the mid 1920s, Windang on the northern side of the lake was 20th century, tourism. named, while its southern counterpart was lumbered with the literal, Lake Illawarra South. Regardless of the name, people still flocked 2 Despite the advances in transport to and from Shellharbour to vacation there. Municipality, the area remained remote as the roads still left much to be desired and the watercourses of the region, including the Residential development began in earnest in the 1920s when Oak Minnamurra and Macquarie Rivers and Lake Illawarra, all proved to Flats, Lake Illawarra South and Albion Park Rail were subdivided be effective barriers to the outside world. The opening of Macquarie and holiday homes constructed. The Oak Flats area was originally Pass in 1898 heralded the beginning of greater access to the granted to John Horsley in 1821 and known as the Oak Flats district. The bridging of Lake Illawarra in 1938, allowing access run. Ownership changed a few times variously to the Wentworth, from Wollongong to Shellharbour, gave an even greater boost to Hughes and Towns families until 1880 when the 1200 acre property population growth but it was the proliferation of motor vehicles in was purchased by George Warburton Fuller. Fuller eventually the mid-20th century that brought holiday-makers in droves. subdivided the estate and on 15 March 1921 auctioned the Oak Flats subdivision; lots 9 – 11 eventually became Oak Flats suburb, From the 1890s, the influx of day-trippers and holiday-makers into being further subdivided in the later 1920s by two developers into the Shellharbour area had a dramatic impact on the appearance the Panorama Estate, Lake Illawarra Township Estate and Kembla 3 of the locality as it preciptated the residential sprawl evident Vista Estate, respectively. today. Once sparsely settled and largely rural, tourists began the transformation of the landscape. The large 19th century estates The Panorama Estate was owned by the Orange family of were subdivided for sale to holiday-makers and investors and the Albion Park Rail who intended the area to be a holiday retreat transformation of the landscape was completed by migrants in the and constructed guest accommodation, Illawarra House, and later half of the 20th century. The demand for land resulted in an established a ferry service, (with jetty), to bring people to the area increase in prices which lead to further subdivisions. From the from the train at Albion Park Rail. A dismal failure, the project 1890s, property and land sale at Shellharbour was focussed on dissolved and the guest house was moved in the mid 1930s to Lake gaining the tourist dollar and holiday-makers were enticed to buy Illawarra South and renamed California. Lot 10 was developed into the Lake Illawarra Township Estate in 1925 by C.R. Staples & Co. land and build a weekender.1

78 and included the wide scenic Central Avenue with views north to Throughout much of the 20th century, Albion Park Rail grew and in Lake Illawarra and south to Dunster’s Hill; the remainder was laid the 21st century remains a landmark on the highway for travellers out in a grid, like the majority of subdivisions of the period. About heading further south.7 half of Lot 11 was also subdivided into the Kembla Vista Estate by C.R. Staples & Co. These town estates were offered for sale in The post-WWII population boom, resulting from foreign migration the 1920s, however the Depression was imminent and although saw expansion at Warilla. As a result of this dramatic influx of sales interest ensued and some houses were constructed, the people existing services were stretched to the limit and eventually development of Oak Flats did not really take off until the late failed. Public transport was almost non-existent and jobs, apart 1940s when European immigrants came to Shellharbour to take from industrial jobs to the north at Port Kembla and Wollongong advantage of affordable housing.4 were hard to find. Services were constructed from 1970s – 1990s to provide adequate facilities for the people of Shellharbour, including “In the late 1920s and early 30s during the Great Depression, quite community facilities such as schools, libraries, halls and child care a few bocks of land in the newly opened up Oak Flats Estate were as well as shopping centres. ‘squattered’ [sic] on by out-of-work men and sometimes with their families. Tents and rough dwellings were used, a favoured form of construction being fruit boxes nailed together then covered with Progress associations have had an almost magical effect on hessian and a thin coating of sand and cement.” 5 settlements throughout the European history of NSW, converting disparate settlements into working communities and providing for After the subdivision of Oak Flats some built holiday homes which the needs of the residents. Incorporation of the municipality in were available for rent, whilst others lived in the new development 1859 brought about many changes and services for the community, especially roads and bridges. permanently. Shops sprang up to cater for the new development, the first on the southern side of Fisher Street adjacent to houses 31 The Illawarra generally has undergone massive growth since the and 33 today where once stood a house called Nimrod.6 1950s through post-war migration and expansion of the steel works Albion Park Rail, as its name suggests, was established in the at Port Kembla. By 1960, the suburbs of Wollongong closest to Port late 1880s when the area was chosen as the most suitable site Kembla steel works were settled and the NSW Housing Commission for a railway station on the new Illawarra railway line. The railway commenced its development of the Warilla area. In the 1960s, the brought people to the area, and with the construction of the ICCD Reddall section of the Peterborough estate was subdivided and the Society buildings in 1899, business and dwellings began to appear. NSW Housing Commission settled many families in Warilla, Warilla 8 A subdivision between the railway and Lake Illawarra was cleared, North, Mount Warrigal, Barrack Point and Barrack Heights. but the area remained fairly stagnant until the highway, (following Telegraph Lane), came through in 1928, securing the settlement. The suburbs of Yellow Rock, Tullimbar, Tongarra, Calderwood, Following the road, Albion Park Rail began to prosper; more North Macquarie, Croome and Dunmore have undergone the least shops and residences came to line the highway necessitating the change with only moderate population growth and a continuation of introduction of facilities including church, school and public hall.

79 agricultural and pastoral activities. Light and extractive industries rivers, (the Macquarie Rivulet and Minnamurra River respectively), have also continued, much as they did in the 19th century.9 the region can still be affected by drought. The drought of 1862 saw the digging of a well at Shellharbour swamp to aid the Electricity villagers there. Most people had household water tanks, but even so, drought wreaked havoc on industry and private homes. Dry “The Mayor and Aldermen Fraser and Allen (select committee) periods saw people digging in the sand to extract buckets of water; presented a report to council on the subject of lighting the townships rivers dried out until they were no more than a chain of shallow of Albion Park and Shellharbour, recommending the erection of 20 waterholes and water was carted from miles away. Town water lamps in all to be divided in proportion to rates receivable from each was requested a few times in the 19th century but the proposals township.” were variously abandoned. In 1945 Lake Illawarra South was the first area in the municipality to receive a reticulated water supply Anon, 22/7/1899, Kiama Independent10 which was piped across the bridge from Windang. Ten years later Shellharbour, Albion Park and Oak Flats got town water, (supplied The orange glow of candles faded to make way for the muted from dams in the Nepean System13), and by the end of the 1950s all radiance of kerosene lamps in the 1890s. Oil lamps lit the streets suburbs of the municipality had a reliable water supply.14 of Shellharbour and Albion Park from 1899. Kerosene lamps in turn gave way to buzzing electric light in 1928, which was provided to Shellharbour and Albion Park from the Power House constructed at Libraries Port Kembla in 1913. Rural electrification came in the late 1940s Public and private libraries have existed for the recreational benefit after the end of WWII.11 of local residents since the latter half of the 19th century. The first library in the locality was located at Shellharbour, the focus of the district in the mid 19th century. Most libraries are solid, hushed Water supply institutions that give the impression of having been in place forever. This could hardly have been further from the truth in Shellharbour “Shellharbour, like other parts of the district, has been visited with a as the first library roved the village looking for a suitable home. beautiful rain, thus relieving the anxiety respecting the probably want The library opened first in the 1860s and was housed at the of water. It is an unfortunate circumstance for this place that it has Presbyterian and Wesleyan churches.15 In January 1874 the no permanent water supply…Some of our townsmen have determined not to be short of water during future drought. Notable among the collection was proclaimed as the Shellharbour Public Library, with number are Messrs Arnold and H. Hicks, each having had enormous opening honours bestowed on the then Mayor, Mr. Robert Wilson. excavations on their premises for a water supply.” For the next 20 years it is unknown exactly where the collection was housed, but finally in 1896 a home was found with the School Anon, 10/9/1878, Kiama Independent12 of Arts. In 1924 the Thomas Memorial Library was opened at the School of Arts, honouring surveyor W.M. Thomas and housing over Although the Shellharbour area is bounded to north and south by 1,000 volumes donated by the book-loving benefactor.16

80 The Library Act 1939, forced local councils to become involved with the provision of library services to its constituents. Despite legislative requirement the library remained at the School of Arts until the early 1950s when it was removed to the Shellharbour Public Hall, (cnr Addison and Wentworth Street), and became the Shellharbour Branch Library – the main library of the municipality. In 1996 the Shellharbour library made its final move (to date) to the vacated Baby Health Centre in Wentworth Street.17 The library has been in continuous (if nomadic) use for well over 100 years.

Similarly, the Albion Park School of Arts also provided for the advancement of literacy in the locality. The Albion Park School of Arts was established in 1898 and from its inception ran a library from a room at the Council Chambers in Tongarra Road. The School of Arts was eventually supplanted by the Albion Park Literary Institute, which continued the extant library in the council building until it moved to the Literary Institute building in Flinders Street in 1929.18 After the demolition of the Literary Institute building, probably in the latter 1950s, the library was in limbo until the Albion Park Branch Library was opened in 1960 in the Centenary Hall which had been erected the year before. The final move for the Albion Park Library occurred in 1986 when it was transferred to its own purpose-built property in Russell Street. Municipal branch libraries were opened at Warilla in 1968 and Oak Flats in 1976. The Warilla Library is now the central base of the municipal libraries.19

81 A FINAL WORD ...

Today Shellharbour is a bustling, thriving community as culturally diverse as any in Australia. Remnants of its agricultural past remain in the hinterland, extractive industries have grown steadily and Shellharbour Village and Lake Illawarra continue to attract tourists. However, the pace of life has accellerated here, as it has everywhere, and Shellharbour’s citizens are, for the most part, no longer simple farmers and shopkeepers. Intense residential development in the late 20th and early 21st century has resulted in a highly urbanised environment. Sandwiched between the urban sprawl of Wollongong to the north and growing regional centres to the south, Shellharbour has become a pit-stop on the way to somewhere else; a commuter suburb for workers in the steel and technology industries of Wollongong. If the Osbornes, or the Wentworths, or the McGills were to visit Shellharbour in the 21st century it would not be a place they could recognise or understand. The tight-knit communities that tilled the first soil, felled the first trees and worked co-operatively to develop the dairy industry no longer exist. What has grown in its place is a new community, with different values and goals for its shire. The picturesque setting of Shellharbour Village remains unchanged, as developers have not found a way to build on the ocean, and the area is still enclosed in the embrace of the Macquarie Ranges. At this point in time, it is a place of stark contrasts - vivid green pastures juxtaposed against the scarred earth and mountains of soil that will become Tullimbah Village; the tranquil lake surrounded by intense residential development; the blue ocean and white sandy beaches backed by ever-more opulent homes; the tiny village that was Peterborough with its grid of streets leading to the ocean and the new suburbs like Flinders with their endless cul-de-sacs and pattern-book architecture.

When people first settled in Shellharbour, Indigenous and European, they were embarked upon a journey that has not yet concluded. People have come from all over the globe to live in this place and will continue to do so, as long as Shellharbour is able to maintain its unique identity. We look foward to the next chapter in Shellharbour’s long and interesting history.

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86 pictorial survey of Shellharbour Municipality, Shellharbour Municipal ENDNOTES Council, 1984, p.28. 4 Sydney Gazette, 1st July 1826. Chapter 1 5 Quoted in Jervis, J., op. cit., p.137. 6 1 Bertie, C.H., 1911, “Matthew Flinders: Australia’s Navigator”, pp. 295 Ibid., p.137. 7 - 297, In RAHS Journal, Vol. 3, Part 7. Quoted in Jervis, J, op. cit., p.137. 8 2 Ibid. Derbyshire, A. & Allen, D., op. cit., p.28. 9 3 Flinders, Matthew, A voyage to Terra Australis, 1840, facsimile edition Ibid., p.28. 10 2000, p.4. Jervis, J., op. cit., p.138. 11 4 Ibid., p.4. Ibid., pp.139-140. 12 5 The actual dimensions of the first and secondTom Thumbs are debated. Quoted in Vader, 1987 p.? http://www.nccnsw.org.au/bushland/ The first boat was definitely smaller than the second and it is most likely reference/vegman04/#Heading3 the first was about 8 foot and the second about 11 foot. Some sources note the second could have been up to 15 or 16 feet in length. Chapter 3 6 Ibid. 1 Derbyshire J. & Allen, D., Land Between Two Rivers, op. cit., p.30. 7 Bertie, C.H., 1911, “Matthew Flinders: Australia’s Navigator”, pp. 295 2 Bayley, William A., Green Meadows: Centenary History of Shellharbour - 297, In RAHS Journal, Vol. 3, Part 7. Municipality New South Wales, Shellharbour Municipal Council, Albion 8 Flinders, op. cit., p.xi. Park, 1959, p.18. 10 Jervis, J., 1942, “Illawarra: A Century of History, 1788 – 1888, Part I”, 3 Derbyshire, op. cit., p.30. pp. 67 – 68, In RAHS Journal, Vol. 28, Part 2. 4 Bayley, op. cit., p.21. 11 Jervis, J., 1942, p. 68. 5 Derbyshire, op. cit., p.30. 12 McDonald, W.G., 1975, The First Footers: Bass and Flinders in the 6 Bayley, op. cit., p.21. Illawarra, 1796 – 1797, pp. 12 – 14. 7 Quoted in ibid., p.22. 13 McDonald, W.G., 1975, pp. 15 – 16. 8 Quoted in ibid., p.22. 14 McDonald, W.G., 1975, pp. 18 – 19. 9 Ibid., pp. 22-23. 15 McDonald, W.G., 1975, pp. 19 – 29. 10 The Australian Encyclopaedia, p.649. 16 Jervis, J., 1942, pp. 74 – 77. 11 Bayley, op. cit., p.24. 17 Derbyshire, J. and Allen, D., 1987, Land Between Two Rivers: a 12 Derbyshire, op. cit. P.32 and History Notes of Shellharbour City Area historical and pictorial survey of Shellharbour Municipality, p. 28. – The Foundations, Land Grants, The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc, 18 Jervis, J., 1942, pp. 74 – 83. 2004, p.1. 13 Derbyshire, op. cit., p.32. Chapter 2 14 Ibid., p.32. 15 1 Jervis, J., Cedar and the Cedar Getters, JRAHS # 25, part 2, 1939, Ibid., p.32 and the Encyclopeadia of Australia, p.548. 16 pp.134-135. Ibid., p.32. 17 2 General Order of the Colony of New South Wales, 14th August, 1819. Bayley, op. cit., pp.23-24. 18 3 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., Land Between Two Rivers; a historical and Hughes, R., The Fatal Shore, pp.62-65. 19 Timbs Family Tree Inc., Journey Through Timbs, p.1.

87 20 Ibid., p.1. 3 Furlong, Ted, Short History of Macquarie Pass: Commemoration of the 21 Bayley, op. cit., pp.26-26. Centenary of Opening 1898-1998, The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc., 22 Ibid., p.26. 1998pp. 1-2. 23 Huxley, T.H., Autobiography, 1889, original held by the University of 4 Charles Throsby to Governor Macquarie, 22nd January 1820, Macquarie Adelaide Library and rendered into HTML for the UA Library Electronic Collection, Mitchell Library NSW. Texts Collection on 2nad August, 2003. 5 Wild, Joseph, Journals of Joseph Wild, Bonwick Transcripts, Mitchell 24 Ibid. Library NSW. 25 Baker, D.W.A., Preacher, Politician, Patriot: The Life of John Dunmore 6 Jervis, James, A History of the Berrima District 1798-1973, Library of Lang, Melbourne University Press, 1998, np. Australian History in association with Council, 26 Ibid. 1986, pp.12-13. 27 The Australian Encyclopaedia, op. cit., p.717. 7 Giles, Ian S., The winds of change: a history of Robertson A.&H. Society 28 Bayley, op. cit., p.27 and Derbyshire, op. cit., p.34. and agriculture of its district, Robertson A. & H. Soceity, 1979, pp.4-5. 29 The Australian Encyclopaedia, p.255. 8 Thomas Mitchell to Robert Hoddle, March 1830, Bonwick Transcripts, 30 Ibid., p. 255. Mitchell Library NSW. 31 Bayley, op. cit., pp.29-30, Derbyshire op. cit., p.34 and The Australian 9 From the Journal of Robert Hoddle, quoted in Giles, I.S., op. cit., p.6. Encyclopaedia, op. cit., p.255. 10 Ibid., p.6. 32 Quoted in Bayley, op. cit., p.30. 11 Furlong, T., op. cit., p.2. 33 Bayley, op. cit., pp. 28-29. 12 Giles, I.S., op. cit., p.6. 34 Ibid., p.30. 13 Furlong, T., op. cit., pp.4-5. 35 Ibid., p.30. 14 Bowral Free Press, Wednesday 17th July, 1889. 15 Nunan, W. & T., The Black Swan, p.287, quoted in Furlong, op. cit., Chapter 4 p.8. 1 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 26. 2 Fraser, A., 1923, ‘Albion Park’, in The Royal Australian Historical Society Chapter 6 Journal, Vol. 8 Supplement, pp. 369 – 370. 1 Bayley, op. cit., p. 89. 3 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 26. 2 Ibid., p. 89. 4 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 35, 63. 3 Ibid., p.90. 5 Thomas, S., 1975, p. 12. 4 Ibid., pp. 90-91. 6 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 26. 5 Ibid., p. 91. 7 Thomas, S., 1975, p. 13. 6 Ibid., p. 92. 8 Thomas, S., 1975, pp. 12 – 13. 7 Todd, J., Milk for the Metropolis: a century of cooperative milk supply in New South Wales, p. 21. Chapter 5 8 Ibid., p. 22. 9 Kiama Independent, 4th April 1882 and also in ibid., pp. 22-23. 1 Gillis, Kevin & Dorothy, The Clover Hill History, Macqaurie Pass National 10 Park, A Historic Background for the National Parks & Wildlife Service, Bayley, W.A., Blue Haven, p. 91 and also in ibid., pp. 22-23. 11 Tongarra Heritage Society Inc., Albion Park, 2001, p.1. Bayley, W.A., Illawarra Pastures, p. 8 and also in ibid., p. 25. 12 Illawarra Mercury, 29th November 1888 and also in ibid., p. 35. 2 Ibid., p.1.

88 13 Ibid., pp. 35, 43. Chapter 8 14 Ibid., p. 43. 1 Fraser, J., quoted in Bayley, W.A., 1959, Green Meadows: Centenary 15 th Farmer’s Cooperative New, 30 January 1900, p. 8 and also in ibid., p. History of Shellharbour Municipality NSW, p. 28. 43 2 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Schools”, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 63. Chapter 7 3 Gillis, D., 2005, p. 61. 1 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Shellharbour Harbour”, In History Notes of 4 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 106. Shellharbour City Area, p. 5. 5 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 69. 2 Anon, 21/11/1855, Sydney Morning Herald, Quoted in Bayley, W.A., 6 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 106. 1959, p. 34. 7 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 101. 3 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Jetties and Shipping”, In History Notes of 8 Anon, 18/3/1870, Illawarra Mercury, cited in Gillis, D., 2005, pp. 61 - Shellharbour City Area, p. 6. 62. 4 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 82. 9 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 39. 5 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 32. 10 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 56 – 57. 6 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Jetties and Shipping”, In History Notes of 11 Gillis, K. & Gillis, D., 2005, Pers Comm. Shellharbour City Area, p. 6. 12 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 56. 7 Bayley. W.A., 1959, p. 40. 13 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 40. 8 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 82. 14 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 101. 9 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Jetties and Shipping”, In History Notes of 15 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Schools’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area Shellharbour City Area, p. 6. (Draft), pp. 64 – 69. 10 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Jetties and Shipping”, In History Notes of Shellharbour City Area, p. 6. Chapter 9 11 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Shellharbour Harbour”, In History Notes of 1 Quoted in Hoctor, M., 29/12/1999, ‘Celebrating our Beginnings: Shellharbour City Area, p. 5. Shellharbour 1817 – 1917’, Lake Times Special Supplement, p. 25. 12 Bay;ey, W.A., 1959, p. 85. 2 The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc., n.d., Epidemics. 13 Gillis, D., 2005, “The Jetties and Shipping”, In History Notes of 3 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 121. Shellharbour City Area, p. 6. 4 Gillis, D., 2005, “Cemeteries”, In History Notes of Shellharbour City 14 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 114. Area, p. 58. 15 The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc., n.d., Shipwrecks on Shellharbour 5 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 121. Coastline. 6 Gillis, D., 2005, “Cemeteries”, In History Notes of Shellharbour City 16 Anon, 12/9/1879, “Wrecks”, in The Kiama Independent. Area, p. 57. 17 , Keats, W. 2003, “Ships sunk off the Australian Coast 1939 – 1945”, 7 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 70 – 72. Big Volcano – Walk of Remembrance and Centaur Memorial - http: 8 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 121. //www.bigvolcano.com.au/stories/THDHS/ 9 Lavelle, S., 1996, Albion Park Pioneer Cemetery Conservation Plan, pp. 18 The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc., n.d., Shipwrecks on Shellharbour 7 – 11. Coastline. 10 Gillis, D., 2005, “Cemeteries”, In History Notes of Shellharbour City Area, p. 60.

89 Chapter 10 in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), pp. 11 - 16. 4 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Shellharbour Village’ and ‘John Thomas’, In History 1 Department of Immigration and Multicultural and Indigenous Affairs, 2005, Fact Sheet 4 – More Than Sixty Years of Post-war Migration - Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), pp. 3, 22. 5 http://www.immi.gov.au/facts/04fifty.htm. Gillis, D., 2004, ‘People and Places: Robert Wilson’s Steam Flour Mill’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), pp. 11 - 15. 2 Australian Bureau of Statistics, 2002, Australian Demographic Statistics: 6 Population Special Article – Populations of Australia and New Zealand, A Gillis, D., 2004, History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), pp. 22 comparison - http://www.abs.gov.au/Ausstats/[email protected]/0/e189e54401c21e7 - 25. 6ca256acc0081e06c?OpenDocument 3 Derbyshire, J., n.d. (Compiler), From Muth to Mood & German Migration Chapter 12 th to NSW in the 19 Century, pp. 3 – 4. 1 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 25. 4 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 27 – 30. 2 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 84. 5 Derbyshire, J., n.d. (Compiler), From Muth to Mood & German Migration 3 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Transportation in Shellharbour: Cedar to City to NSW in the 19th Century, pp. 4 – 6. – Community and Heritage’, in The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc 6 Newsletter No. 87, pp. 2 – 3. 7 Derbyshire, J., n.d. (Compiler), From Muth to Mood & German Migration 4 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Transportation in Shellharbour: Cedar to City to NSW in the 19th Century, pp. 11 – 12. – Community and Heritage’, in The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc 8 Derbyshire, J., n.d. (Compiler), From Muth to Mood & German Migration Newsletter No. 87, p. 3 th to NSW in the 19 Century, pp. 12 – 13. 5 Singleton, C.C., 1972, Railway History in Illawarra, New South Wales, 9 Derbyshire, J., n.d. (Compiler), From Muth to Mood & German Migration p. 5. th to NSW in the 19 Century, pp. 13 – 14. 6 Singleton, C.C., 1972, pp. 5 – 11. 10 Department of Immigration and Multicultural and Indigenous Affairs, 7 Singleton, C.C., 1972, pp. 10 – 12. 2005, Fact Sheet 4 – More Than Sixty Years of Post-war Migration - 8 Singleton, C.C., 1972, pp. 10 – 12. http://www.immi.gov.au/facts/04fifty.htm. 9 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 84. 11 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Libraries’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area 10 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 84. (Draft), p. 41. 11 Singleton, C.C., 1972, p. 52. 12 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 150 – 151. 12 Singleton, C.C., 1972, p. 52. 13 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 99. 13 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 84. 14 Community Relations Commission, n.d., Resource Handbook for 14 Singleton, C.C., 1972, p. 53. Chief Executive Officers and Senior Managers: Ethnic Affairs in the 15 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 156. NSW Public Sector – Appendix 2: Population Profile of NSW - http: 16 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Airport’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area //www.crc.nsw.gov.au/publications/resourcehandbook/appendix_2.htm (Draft), p. 84. 17 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 156. Chapter 11 18 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Airport’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area 1 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Shellharbour Village’, In History Notes of Shellharbour (Draft), pp. 84 - 85. City Area (Draft), p. 3. 19 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Airport’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area 2 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 40 – 85. (Draft), pp. 84 - 85. 3 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘People and Places: Robert Wilson’s Steam Flour Mill’, 20 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Airport’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), pp. 84 - 85.

90 Chapter 13 18 Verity, W., 14/5/2005, A Tortured Genius and From ‘gangster gun’ to the 1 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 72 – 73. ‘Digger’s darling’, The Illawarra Mercury Weekender, pp. S8 – S9. 2 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 108 – 109. 19 Verity, W., 14/5/2005, A Tortured Genius and From ‘gangster gun’ to the 3 Wilcox, C., 1999, ”The first Australian unit in the Boer War”, In Wartime ‘Digger’s darling’, The Illawarra Mercury Weekender, pp. S8 – S9. – The Official Magazine of the Australian War Memorial, Vol. 8, pp. 3 20 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Airport – Albion Park’ in History Notes of Shellharbour - 9. City Area (Draft), p. 83. 4 Wilcox, C., 1999, ”The first Australian unit in the Boer War”, In Wartime 21 Anon, n.d., ‘Clive “Killer” Caldwell’, in Warringah Radio Control Society – The Official Magazine of the Australian War Memorial, Vol. 8, pp. 3 Incorporated - http://www.wrcs.org.au/articles/62.htm - 9. 22 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 156. 5 Hurrell, A.A., (Compiler), 2000, Private Samuel Atchison: Killed in action 23 Gillis, D., 2005, ‘Airport’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area th during the Anglo-Boer War, 20 February 1900, pp. 1 – 3. (Draft), p. 84. 6 Hurrell, A.A., (Compiler), 2000, Private Samuel Atchison: Killed in action 24 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 156. th during the Anglo-Boer War, 20 February 1900, pp. 1 – 5. 25 Gillis, K., 2005, Pers. Comm. 7 Hurrell, A.A., (Compiler), 2000, Private Samuel Atchison: Killed in action 26 Warby, P.A., 2000, Albion Park RSL Memorial Club Ltd: A complete th during the Anglo-Boer War, 20 February 1900, pp. 1 – 5. history, 1944 – 2000, pp. 1 – 37. 8 Extracts from the South Coast Herald and Illawarra Guardian, quoted in 27 Verity, W., 26/4/2005, ‘Gallipoli sand finds new home’, in Illawarra Hurrell, A.A., (Compiler), 2000, Private Samuel Atchison: Killed in action Mercury – www.illawarramercury.com.au. during the Anglo-Boer War, 20th February 1900, p. 6. 9 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 121. Chapter 14 10 Iliffe, D., 17/2/2000, “Honouring the Illawarra’s first fallen soldier: War 1 Centenary”, In Illawarra Mercury, p. 14. Carruthers, Sir J., quoted in Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 30. 2 Swann, M., 1920, pp. 134 - 136. 11 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 108 – 109. 3 Swann, M., 1920, p. 136. 12 Clark, G., n.d., ‘Personal Histories: Colonel Colin D. Fuller DSO, Order 4 Swann, M., 1920, pp. 137 – 138. of the Nile, 6th Light Horse regiment 1882 – 1953’, in The Australian 5 Swann, M., 1920, “Caroline Chisholm”, pp. 138 – 139, In RAHS Journal, Light Horse Association - www.lighthorse.org.au/Perhist/fuller.htm. Vol. 6, Part 3. 13 Quoted in Hoctor, M., 29/12/1999, ‘Celebrating our Beginnings: 6 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 27 – 29. Shellharbour 1817 – 1917’, Lake Times Special Supplement, p. 28. 7 Swann, M., 1920, p. 139. 14 Verity, W., 14/5/2005, A Tortured Genius and From ‘gangster gun’ to the 8 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 29. ‘Digger’s darling’, The Illawarra Mercury Weekender, p. S8. 9 NSW Planning & Environment Commission, 1973, p. 3. 15 Verity, W., 14/5/2005, A Tortured Genius and From ‘gangster gun’ to the 10 NSW Planning & Environment Commission, 1973, Shellharbour New ‘Digger’s darling’, The Illawarra Mercury Weekender, p. S8. Town: the Development of Housing Commission Site 7200, p. 1. 16 Verity, W., 14/5/2005, A Tortured Genius and From ‘gangster gun’ to the 11 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 61. ‘Digger’s darling’, The Illawarra Mercury Weekender, p. S8. 17 Anon, n.d., ‘Who’s Who in Australian Military History: Lieutenant Evelyn Chapter 15 Ernest Owen’, Australian War Memorial, http://www.awm.gov.au/ 1 Maiden, H.E., 1966, The History of Local Government in NSW, pp. 5 people/8479.asp. – 31.

91 2 Ibid, p. 80. 3 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘The Proclamation and Municipality of Shellharbour’, in 14 Isaacs, V. & Kirkpatrick, R., 2003, Two Hundred Years of Sydney History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 8, 15. Newspapers: A Short History, in National Plan for Australian 4 Anon, 6/6/1984, ‘Shellharbour celebrates 125 years’, in The Lake Times, Newspapers Project: History, The National Library of Australia - http: p. 17. //www.nla.gov.au/nplan/history.html 5 Gillis, D., (Ed), 2004, ‘Local Government comes back to Albion Park’ in 15 Anon, 5/7/1963, Kiama Independent Centenary Supplement, pp. 1 The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 82, p. 3. – 12. 6 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘The Proclamation and Municipality of Shellharbour’, in 16 Anon, 5/7/1963, Kiama Independent Centenary Supplement, pp. 1 History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 8. – 12. 7 Gillis, D., (Ed), 2004, ‘Local Government comes back to Albion Park’ in 17 Anon, 5/7/1963, Kiama Independent Centenary Supplement, pp. 1 The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 82, p. 3. – 12. 8 Gillis, D., (Ed), 2004, ‘Local Government comes back to Albion Park’ in 18 O’Dwyer, J., 2004, ’60 Years of History’, in The Tongarra Heritage The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 82, p. 3. Society Inc Newsletter No. 82, p. 2. 19 Anon, n.d., ‘The History of Australian Radio’, Radio Adelaide 101.5 FM Chapter 16 - http://www.radio.adelaide.edu.au/intro/history_OZ-radio.pdf 20 Gillis, D. & Gillis, K., 2005, Pers Comm. 1 Gillis, K., 2005, Pers. Comm. 21 Cook, R., 2005, Radio 2WL. 2 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Post Offices’, inHistory Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 48. Chapter 17 3 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Post Offices’, inHistory Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 45. 1 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 76. 4 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 62. 2 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 145. 5 Gillis, D. & Gillis, K, 2005, Pers. Comm. 3 Quoted in Hoctor, M., 29/12/1999, ‘Celebrating our Beginnings: 6 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Post Offices’, inHistory Notes of Shellharbour City Area Shellharbour 1817 – 1917’, Lake Times Special Supplement, p. 20. (Draft), p. 46. 4 McIlquham, D., n.d., ‘Some Random Recollections of Oak Flats’, quoted 7 Gillis, D. & Gillis, K, 2005, Pers. Comm. in The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 37 October 2000. 8 Harris, C., n.d., ’A Story on Albion Park Post Office’, quoted in 5 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 112. Shellharbour Memories, pp. 82 – 85. 6 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 76. 9 Thomas, S., 1975, p. 21. 7 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 145. 10 Harris, C., n.d., ’A Story on Albion Park Post Office’, quoted in 8 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 78. Shellharbour Memories, pp. 82 – 85. 9 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 78. 11 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 75 - 76. 10 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 152. 12 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Post Offices’, inHistory Notes of Shellharbour City Area 11 McIlquham, D., n.d., ‘Some Random Recollections of Oak Flats’, quoted (Draft), pp. 47 - 48. in The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 37 October 2000. 13 Isaacs, V. & Kirkpatrick, R., 2003, Two Hundred Years of Sydney 12 Bayley, op. Cit., p. 122. Newspapers: A Short History, in National Plan for Australian 13 Ibid., p. 122-123. Newspapers Project: History, The National Library of Australia - http: 14 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 78. //www.nla.gov.au/nplan/history.html 15 Bayley, op. cit., p. 146.

92 16 Ibid., p. 152. 17 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 123, 152. 18 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 145 – 152.

Chapter 18 1 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 78. 2 Bayley, W.A., 1959, pp. 123, 152. 3 Gillis, K., 2002, Study on Oak Flats Township 2529, p. 1. 4 Gillis, K., 2002, Study on Oak Flats Township 2529, pp. 1 - 5. 5 McIlquham, D., n.d., ‘Some Random Recollections of Oak Flats’, quoted in The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 37 October 2000. 6 McIlquham, D., n.d., ‘Some Random Recollections of Oak Flats’, quoted in The Tongarra Heritage Society Inc. Newsletter No. 37 October 2000. 7 Thomas, S., 1975, p. 120. 8 Derbyshire & Allen, op. Cit., p. 99. 9 Thomas, S., 1975, pp. 121 – 123. 10 Quoted in Hoctor, M., 29/12/1999, ‘Celebrating our Beginnings: Shellharbour 1817 – 1917’, Lake Times Special Supplement, p. 27. 11 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 154. 12 Quoted in Hoctor, M., 29/12/1999, ‘Celebrating our Beginnings: Shellharbour 1817 – 1917’, Lake Times Special Supplement, p. 21. 13 Derbyshire, J. & Allen, D., 1987, p. 25. 14 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 52, 109, 155. 15 Bayley, W.A., 1959, p. 58. 16 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘School of Arts – Social Life – Library’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 38. 17 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Libraries’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), p. 40 18 Thomas, S., 1975, p. 39. 19 Gillis, D., 2004, ‘Libraries’, in History Notes of Shellharbour City Area (Draft), pp. 41 - 42.

93 APPENDIX A - SHIPWRECKS

Name Date Where Comments Amphitrite 15 May 1851 Shellharbour The Amphitrite, a wooden ketch under the command of one of the owners, William Baxter, went ashore at Shellharbour on 15 May 1851; it soon became a complete wreck. The remains of the ketch have not been found. The vessel was 17 tons, 11.8m in length and built at Brisbane Water, NSW, in 1847. Registered at Sydney as 29 of 1850. Echo 21 March 1863 Bass Point The Echo was a wooden schooner. On a voyage from Shoalhaven to Sydney with a cargo of wheat, maize and potatoes, she struck a rock near Long Point, Shellharbour and was wrecked. The remains of the schooner have not been found. The vessel was 21 tons, 11.3m in length, built at Sydney in 1843. Registered at Sydney as 76 of 1848, Official No. 32472. Blackwall 20 July 1876 Shellharbour The Blackwall was a 66 ton wooden screw steamer built by Rock Davis at Brisbane Water, NSW in 1874 and owned by the Illawarra Steam Navigation Company. The vessel was primarily used to transport general produce along the NSW coast. The steamer was wrecked when the anchor dragged on Shellharbour Reef and eventually refloated. Her Master at this time was W.D. Thompson. Bertha 9 September Bass Point The Bertha was a wooden top sail schooner on a voyage from Sydney to Kiama 1879 driven ashore in a gale. The schooner became a total wreck on the north side of Bass Point. The Bertha was under the command of Frederick Mahler and owned by F.W. Cook. She was carrying 3 crew and 2 passengers and Aboriginal witnesses to the wreck saved the lives of the Captain and crew by taking a line from the vessel to the shore. The Bertha, in ballast at the time of loss, was engaged in the transport of blue metal from Kiama to Sydney. The remains of the schooner have not been found. The vessel was 64 tons, 22.1m in length, built by Edward Davis at Davistown, Brisbane Water, NSW in 1864. Register at Sydney as 64 of 1864, Official No. 49269.

Note: All shipwreck information is quoted from the NSW Maritime Heritage website database, available at www.maritime.heritage.nsw.gov.au.

94 Franz 9 September Lake Illawarra The Franz was a wooden schooner on a voyage from Sydney to Kiama when she 1879 was wrecked in an easterly gale just north of Lake Illawarra. She was owned by F.W. Cook and engaged in carrying blue metal but was in ballast at the time of loss. The Master was John Jenkins; he and six other crew were all saved. The remains of the schooner have not been found. The vessel was 148 tons, 25.2m in length and built near Hamburg, Germany, in 1862. Registered at Sydney as 73 of 1875, Official No. 64388. Our Own 21 August 1880 Bass Point Our Own was a wooden paddle steamer, wrecked on the beach near Bass Point after sufferring machinery failure. Two lives were lost. She was carrying general cargo and a steam engine. The vessel was 73 tons, 26.94m in length and built by Reuben Greentree at Nowra in 1878. Registered by the owner, John McArthur & Co., at Sydney as 45 of 1878, Official No. 74982. A l e x a n d e r 1 July 1901 Bass Point A wooden screw steamer owned by the Illawarra Steam Navigation Company when Berry wrecked at Bass Point. Four of the five crew lost their lives in this tragic event. The vessel was 62 tons, 24.6m in length and built by James Bower & Co. at Pyrmont, NSW in 1873. Registered at Sydney as 6 of 1874, Official No. 69740. The wreck site has been located. Comboyne 27 November Bass Point The Comboyne was a wooden screw steamer wrecked after striking an object about 1920 1 mile off Bass Point. The ship was engaged in the timber trade for Allen Taylor & Co. and was under the command of Captain Woods. The remains of the steamer have not been found. The vessel was 281 tons, 42.42m in length and built by Ernest Wright at , NSW in 1911. Registered at Sydney as 25 of 1911, Official No. 131486. Kiltobranks 21 February Shellharbour The Kiltobranks was a wooden screw steamer with a cargo of blue metal under the 1924 command of Captain Gardiner. The remains of the steamer have never been found. the vessel was 272 tons, 40.75m in length and built by Rock Davis at Blackwall, NSW in 1908. Registered at Sydney as 36 of 1908, Official No. 125170. Cities Service 16 May 1943 Bass Point A large steel screw steamer, she ran aground at Bass Point during a storm. Members Boston of the Australian 6th Machine Gun Battalion camped nearby, assisted in the rescue of the crew. All the crew were saved but four of the rescuers died. The steamer was 9348 tons, 153.3m in length and built in 1921 in New York. The wreck site has been located.

95 APPENDIX B - PUBLIC & DENOMINATIONAL SCHOOLS Note: unless otherwise indicated in the “Closed” column, school are still operating.

Name Opened Closed Comments Albion Park 1 1872 1892 West of current settlement, replaced by Albion Park 2 closer to the settlement. Albion Park 2 1892/3 1998 Albion Park Rail Public School 1959 Albion Park High School 1991 Balarang Public School 1991 Barrack Heights Primary School 1976 Corpus Christi Catholic High School 2006 Oak Flats. Yet to open - slated for March 2006. Croome 1864 1884 School demolished in early 20th century. The site is marked by the 1884 1922 trees planted by the school on Arbour Day in 1890. Croome Park School 1865 c.1880s Father Smythe Memorial Convent 1857/8 Shellharbour, run by the Sisters of Charity. School/Stella Maris Primary School Flinders Primary School 2002 Lake Illawarra South Primary School 1954/5 Reddall St. Macquarie River Church of England Unknown c.1860 Located near Albion Park. See Macquarie River Public School for School further information. Macquarie River Public School 1859 1897 Converted to a public school from the Macquarie River CoE School. 1897 1973 Later replaced by Tullimbah School. Marshall Mount National School 1859 1897 A new one-room school replaced the old one on the same site in 1897 1973 1897. Minnamurra 1976 Mount Terry Public School 1995 Albion Park Mount Warrigal Primary School 1967 Nazareth Catholic Primary School 2000 Blackbutt

96 Oak Flats Public School 1952 Oak Flats High School 1962 Peterborough/Minnamurra 1864 1881 Building replaced in 1881. 1881 1907 Presbyterian School, Albion Park 1859 Unknown Shell Cove Primary School 2005 Shellharbour 1 1843 1850 Corner Addison and Wentworth Streets. Shellharbour 2 1851 1870 Located in Mary St, the 1870 building was demolished in 1929 to make way for a new one. Shellharbour 3 1870 Present location. Shellharbour Anglican College 2004 Dunmore. Caters for students from K - 7. Stockyard Mountain 1884 1904 Stony Creek National School 1864 c.1870s St Paul’s Catholic School Albion Park 1881 St Joseph’s Catholic High School 1982 Tongarra 1870s 1894 1895 1920 Tongarra Campus High School 1989 Formerly Illawarra Christian School. Caters for students from K - 12. Tullimbah Public School 1881 1965 Albion Park Tullimbah Church of England School 1856 1882 1965 Warilla North Primary School 1964 Warilla Public School 1956 Yellow Rock (Stockyard Mountain) 1884 1904

97 APPENDIX C - NEWSPAPERS IN & AROUND SHELLHARBOUR Name Established Closed Comments Albion Park & Shellharbour Chronicle Advertiser 1904 1905 Albion Park & Shellharbour Light Incorporated into South Coast Register. Dapto & Albion Park Advertiser Incorporated into Illawarra Mercury. Dapto & Albion Park Guardian 1895 1906 Illawarra Banner 1863 1876 Founded by William Bowe at Figtree and incorporated into The Argus in 1876. Illawarra & South Coast Districts Advertiser Incorporated into the South Coast Times. Illawarra Daily Mercury 1950 Illawarra Mercury 1855 1950 Illawarra Star 1937 Kiama Examiner 1858 1862 Kiama Independent 1863 Established and still operated by the Weston family. Kiama Pilot 1868 c . 1 8 7 3 - 1878 Kiama Reporter 1877 c.1886 Established by F.W. Wilson who also published the Kiama Observer from 1885. Kiama Sentinel 1931 1932 Published by Leo O’Dwyer for 13 months. Printed at Berry and circulated free. Lake Times 1979 Incorporated into the South Coast Times. Northern News NSW South Coaster 1981 Orbit Published by Jones at Shellharbour and lasted less than 3 months. Port Kembla Bulletin 1965 Port Kembla Pilot 1925 1926 Incorporated into the Illawarra Mercury. South Coast Chronicle 1895 1895 Lasted only 3 months.

98 South Coast Herald 1895 Published every Friday at Dapto. Incorporated into the Illawarra Mercury. South Coast Register 1885 South Coast Times 1876 1968 Incorporated into the Illawarra Mercury. Warilla Community Voice 1977 Established at Warilla and circulating at least from the 1970s. Warilla Gazette Circulating from at least 1971. Wollongong Advance 1959 1960 Wollongong & Shellharbour Advertiser 1982 Incorporated into the Illawarra Mercury. Wollongong Argus 1876 1900 Incorporated into the South Coast Times. Wollongong Express 1859

99 APPENDIX D - NATIONAL, STATE & LOCAL THEMES National Theme State Theme Local Theme Peopling the continent Exploration Exploration Of The Illawarra Tracing the evolution of a continent’s special environments Environment The Most Beautiful Wood Peopling the continent Pastoralism From Forest To Farm Agriculture Land Tenure Peopling the continent Aboriginal Contact King Mickey Tracing the evolution of a continent’s special environments Land Tenure Up The Pass Environment Transport Developing local, regional & national economies Industry Milk Money Labour Commerce Technology Persons Developing local, regional & national economies Transport Sea Lanes Commerce Persons Educating Education Living & Learning Marking the phases of life Death Six Feet Under Peopling the continent Migration From A Distant Land Ethnic Influences Building settlements, towns & cities Townships A Village By The Sea Developing local, regional & national economies Transport From Here To There Technology Marking the phases of life Defence Lest We Forget Death Events Persons

100 National Theme State Theme Local Theme Developing cultural institutions & ways of life Welfare Lending A Hand Persons Governing Government & Administration Municipal Moments Building settlements, towns & cities Communication Communication Developing cultural institutions & ways of life Leisure Seaside Rendezvous Building settlements, towns & cities Utilities Modernisation Townships

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