ABG Nearing in on Closing Barneys Deal

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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 45 NOVEMBER 1–7, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS

RETAIL ABG Nearing In on Closing Barneys Deal

On Oct. 31, Authentic Brands Group was in grasping distance of acquiring influential yet troubled retailer Barneys New York Inc. In a hearing at the United States Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York, Judge Cecilia G. Morris approved ABG’s $271.4 million bid to take over Barneys, which filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in August. The ruling left a small window open for another bidder to submit a higher bid. The deal officially closes on Nov. 1. ABG’s rivals could scramble and assemble a more lucrative offer, according to media reports. On Oct. 24, ABG claimed that it had wrapped up the deal to acquire Barneys. The announcement was upended when a competitor, Sam Ben-Avraham, submitted a rival bid. He also mounted a “Save Barneys” social-media campaign that gained more than 19,000 signatures supporting his group’s bid. Barneys page 2

REAL ESTATE In a Time of Few Mall Developments, New Mall Debuts, Another Mall Remodels By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

A new retail center has opened in Long Beach, Calif., as another mall is scheduled to wrap up the first phase of a $20 million remodel in Santa Barbara, Calif. The Oct. 14 debut of the 2nd & PCH retail center in Long Beach and the Nov. 15 unveiling of a remodel of the main section of the Paseo Nuevo center in Santa Barbara, are two of a small group of mall-development hot spots in California, which was once one of the hubs of mall development in the world. Only a couple of new malls were built from the ground up in California this year, and 2nd & PCH was one of them. Heart of L.A. Malls page 3 The Los Angeles Fashion Week production of Art Hearts Fashion saw INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM the unveiling of Nathalia Gaviria’s Spring 2020 collection for her NG Gold brand. Inspired by styles of the late 1990s and childhood playtime spent dressing her toys such as Barbie and Ken, the designer brought fun back into fashion. Find additional Art Hearts Fashion coverage on 4 9 pages 6 and 7. Nike sells Hurley ... p. 2 Possible tariff exemptions ... p. 2 Knitify the World ... p. 3 Cute Booty to Retail ... p. 8 Stylish house shoes ... p. 9

www.apparelnews.net ARUN NEVADER

01-3-cover.indd 1 10/31/19 6:26 PM NEWS Week in Review Hurley Acquired by Bluestar Alliance Von Maur Department Stores Nike Inc. announced that it has sold the les–headquartered B. Riley announced that it it was the major sponsor of the U.S. Open of announced that it will open its fourth Costa Mesa, Calif.–headquartered Hurley In- had established a brand-investment portfolio Surfing. Since 2013, Vans has served as the location in Michigan. Scheduled ternational to Bluestar Alliance LLC for an and would hold the majority ownership of the major sponsor. to open in fall 2020, the two-story, undisclosed sum. assets and intellectual property of Catherine The Hurley deal has similarities to Ker- 122,000-square-foot Van Maur will Hurley’s new owners plan to look for in- Malandrino, English Laundry, Joan Vass, ing’s sale of the action-sports and lifestyle be located at The Village of Roches- creased licensing opportunities for the brand, Kensie Girl, Limited Too and Nanette brand Volcom, said Greg Weisman, an at- ter Hills in Rochester Hills, which is a said Joey Gabbay, Bluestar’s chief executive Lepore. torney with Ritholz Levy Fields LLP, who 40-minute drive from Detroit. Located officer. “This is a transformative acquisition The sale ends Hurley’s 17-year run at the works with action-sports brands. He said in a former Bon Ton space, the store for Bluestar as Hurley’s international foot- footwear-and-apparel giant. Nike acquired that Nike’s support and sponsorship of surf is forecasted to employ 150 associates. print will enhance Bluestar’s reach around the the influential action-sports brand for an un- competitions was appreciated by the wider Von Maur is on a growth spurt. In early world,” he said in a statement. disclosed amount in 2002 but had been inves- surfing community, but Nike’s relationship October, it opened a location in Grand “We look forward to building upon the tigating a sale of Hurley since July. with Hurley never entirely fit. Most surfers Rapids, Mich., and is scheduled to open existing Hurley network and expanding to ad- Bob Hurley, the founder of his self-named ride boards barefoot. Unlike skateboarding, a store in Madison, Wisc., in fall 2021. ditional countries with the deep relationships brand, was considered a pioneer in action- there is no technical footwear made for the that already exist within the Bluestar portfolio sports styles. Before starting a clothing busi- sport. Black Friday is forecasted to enjoy of brands,” he said. “We see Hurley continu- ness, he worked as an innovative surfboard “I hope the new buyer keeps all of the in- an uptick of shoppers going to physi- ing to evolve into a 360-degree lifestyle brand shaper. In 1983, he acquired the U.S. rights teresting and creative people that made up the cal stores, according to a survey from with action sports playing a key role.” to the Australian surf brand Billabong. After DNA of Hurley,” Weisman said. “But multi- Genesys, a customer-service, business- Bluestar is a brand management company guiding Billabong to domestic popularity, he brand houses like Iconix and Bluestar may be consulting and professional-services based in New York City. Its family of brands started Hurley International in 1999. It be- looking to cut overhead. Time will tell.” company that offers products such as includes Bebe, Tahari, Kensie, Limited came noteworthy for working with popular Hurley also made a splash with the design PureCloud. The survey found that 39 Too, Brookstone, Nanette Lepore, Cath- rock bands such as Blink-182 to change the of its performance boardshort, the Phantom percent—2 percent more than the 2018 erine Malandrino, Joan Vass and English perception of the label into a lifestyle brand, and has worked on and sold collaboration survey—intended to shop in physical Laundry. On Oct. 30, B. Riley Financial according to media reports. Hurley also cre- lines such as Hurley x Carhartt. The collec- stores on Black Friday while 37 percent announced that it would join Bluestar as an ated a high profile in the surf world for spon- tion with the workwear brand Carhartt was did not want to go Black Friday shop- investor in the Hurley brand. The Los Ange- soring surf competitions. From 2009 to 2012 released recently.—Andrew Asch ping because the stores are too busy.

Hemster recently introduced on- IMPORT / EXPORT demand tailoring services to retailers. Diane von Furstenberg, Outdoor Voices and Alo Yoga have partnered with the USTR to Consider Extension of Tariff Exclusions on $34 Billion of Chinese Imports New York–based Hemster to provide altering to their customers. On Oct. 16, As the leaders of the United States and Chi- granted in December of 2018 on July 6, 2018, “The USTR will evaluate the possible ex- Hemster announced that it raised $4 na continue to negotiate new trade terms and tariffs. The exclusions are scheduled to expire tension of each exclusion on a case-by-case million in post-seed funding. Bullpen navigate through tariff increases implemented on Dec. 28, and comments regarding exclu- basis. The focus of the evaluation will be Capital led the funding round. Also on imported goods, the office of the United sions may be submitted until Nov. 30. whether, despite the first imposition of these participating were Hustle Fund, Oyster States Trade Representative made an an- In a Federal Register notice, the office of additional duties in July 2018, the particular Ventures, The Fund and FJ Labs. Hem- nouncement on Oct. 28 regarding exclusions. the USTR established guidelines for the de- product remains available only from China,” ster’s total funding has reached $5 mil- On Nov. 1, the USTR will begin a process to cision-making process regarding exemption according to the notice by Joseph Barloon, lion with the recent round of financing. consider an extension on exclusions that were extensions. general counsel for the USTR. “In addition, The on-demand tailoring company will the USTR will continue to consider whether use the investment to expand markets, the imposition of additional duties on the increase staffing and operations. products covered by the exclusion will result in severe economic harm to the commenter or Coach will be the first luxury brand other U.S. interests.” to produce a float in Macy’s Thanksgiv- This announcement followed a decision ing Day parade, it was announced Oct. Designer’s Atelier by the White House to not implement an ad- 30. For the 93rd annual Macy’s Thanks- ditional 5 percent tariff, from 25 percent to giving Day parade, scheduled to take 30 percent, on $250 billion in goods imported place Nov. 28, Coach will produce a from China, which was originally scheduled float called Rexy in the City. The float to be enacted on Oct. 15. According to the will feature Coach’s mascot, the dinosaur Associated Press, this decision was made af- Rexy, said Susan Tercero, executive pro- Private Label ter China agreed to purchase between $40 bil- ducer of the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day lion and $50 billion in agricultural products parade. “On Thanksgiving Day, Rexy, from the United States.—Dorothy Crouch the fearless fashion dino, will capture the imaginations and hearts of millions as she Patternmaking makes her glittering way down the streets RETAIL of Manhattan,” Tercero said. Coach also will produce a Rexy-themed collection Grading featuring leather goods, footwear and T- Barneys Continued from page 1 shirts, which will be available at Macy’s and Macys.com on Nov. 15. “It’s still a relevant business,” Ben-Avra- ham said of Barneys. “A lot of people depend Eva Chen is Instagram’s head of Markers on business with Barneys. A lot of its em- fashion partnerships and a children’s ployees still go to work. They are confused book author. Call it synergy—Chen has by the fake news. It is very irresponsible to published a children’s book titled “Juno make the announcement.” Ben-Avraham did Valentine and the Fantastic Fashion Samples not return a California Apparel News request Adventure.” The picture book follows for comment after the hearing. the fashion crisis of the plucky girl Juno Former Barneys owner David Jackson Valentine. It’s a school-picture day and also was putting together a bid for the com- her mom and dad have opposite ideas of Any Quantity Production pany. what they want her to wear in the photo, Saks Fifth Avenue is scheduled to be- according to a synopsis from publisher come a retail partner for Barneys in the U.S. Macmillan. Juno also has to find her and Canada. The ABG statement said that brother, who has disappeared into a it will selectively license the Barneys name magical hall of shoes. While looking around the world. While this agreement will for her brother, Juno receives guidance allow the luxury destination to remain in from gymnast Simone Biles, former business, some in the industry fear the transi- first lady Michelle Obama, as well as tion is going to end Barneys reputation as an actress Audrey Hepburn and renowned enclave for a discerning consumer. markswoman Annie Oakley. The book 1515 Maple Ave. #15 LA. CA. 90015 “We will mourn the loss of Barneys as was released on Oct. 29. On Nov. 1, one of the last places one could investigate Chen and illustrator Derek Desierto 213 - 926 - 8979 new brands, new lines and new ideas at the are scheduled to make an appearance [email protected] couture level,” said Ilse Metchek, president and sign books at South Coast Plaza in of the California Fashion Association. Costa Mesa, Calif. www.filandneedle.com —A.A.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

01-3-cover.indd 2 10/31/19 6:27 PM TECHNOLOGY In Los Angeles, Shima Seiki Seeks to ‘Knitify the World’ By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor nology I really don’t cut any fabrics,” she said. “With the Su- Within its new space, which opened in March, Japa- persymmetry project, it’s about nese machine manufacturer Shima Seiki hosted its sec- bringing meaning to a product. ond G3D seminar in its fresh showroom. The first event You can customize the pattern in the Arts District space was held earlier this year, fo- on it and share it with someone cused on a “Yarn to Shelf” manufacturing approach to you love.” apparel, while the recent session, hosted Oct. 23 and 24, By agreeing to speak at the adhered to the theme “Knitify the World.” Shima Seiki event, Latulippe “This time we wanted to focus on our theme ‘Knit- felt that she was able to connect ify the World,’ which we announced at the Interna- with others who are passion- tional Textile Machinery Association in Barcelona ate about textile and apparel. earlier this year,” Sales and Senior Business Develop- Through sharing information, ment Manager Hayato Nishi explained. “We wanted attendees and speakers could in- to recap that in our L.A. showroom for the U.S. cus- form and learn from each other tomers who couldn’t make it to Barcelona. Before, regarding solutions to reduce we were focusing more on apparel brands, but this waste. time we had more research and development and yarn Lysanne Latulippe of String Theory Andre West of the Zeis Textile Extension program at North “The focus for the sustain- mills.” Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles ability was about less is more. While many people perceive knitting to simply be You don’t really need to buy all related to sweaters, Shima Seiki has been focused on show- For Stephan, the event served as an opportunity to consider these things,” she said. “If there is cotton waste created from casing the ways in which knit practices can be applied to a va- returning to the industry as he listened to presentations from my cotton yarn, it is sent to a lady who transforms it into paper. riety of apparel items, including safety apparel and footwear, industry experts such as String Theory’s Lysanne Latulippe If there is enough, I have it sent back and I can wrap scarves in but also across other industries including architecture. and Parkdale Mills’ Cheryl Smyre. my own paper or write these notes to my customers.” Not resting on their laurels, the company’s event organiz- “I have an idea and am trying to meet a manufacturer to Attendee Terrica Preston agrees and was interested in ex- ers are already planning for a spring 2020 event and noted that produce in limited quantities,” Stephan said. “It’s more about ploring how her peers are adopting eco-friendlier practices. interest in sustainability continues to grow with each meeting integrating cultural and folkloric patterns into a garment to As a tailor at Levi’s Tailor Shop, Preston is pursuing higher as more emerging brands and industry leaders are adopting make it more interesting but more wearable. Before, I was education at Los Angeles’ Fashion Institute of Design & greener practices. This trend became apparent as speakers and more interested in men’s clothing, but a lot of women’s cloth- Merchandising to achieve her goal of becoming an environ- attendees during this recent event shared information to im- ing, particularly knits, are more interesting.” mentally friendly textile designer. In addition to the sustain- prove manufacturing. During her presentation “String Theory: Sustainabilty able sessions from the first day, she was also pleased with the “Our G3D seminars are a little more casual and broken in Knitwear,” Latulippe discussed creating classic pieces presentation from Andre West, the director of the Zeis Textile down so we can have these in-depth sessions and network- through quality craftwork, materials and more-efficient man- Extension program at North Carolina State University’s ing times to interact and become one Shima family, sharing ufacturing. A knitter for the last 20 years, Latulippe founded Wilson College of Textiles. Shima stories to gain real-life perspective to plug into their String Theory 10 years ago with a focus on creating patterned “In Los Angeles, fashion connoisseurs need to see that next development or become inspired for a new business en- textiles such as those used in her Supersymmetry scarf design. there is more that we can do to reduce waste. We waste so deavor,” Nishi said. “We want to lower the barrier to entry to The product is a sharable single scarf that can be split into two much. With this area so close to Skid Row, you can see so this knitting industry.” for sharing between two people. many garments on the ground. Stop the waste going to land- One of those attendees was Stevan Stephan, a Los Ange- “With more growth in sustainability, it’s about knitting on fills,” she said. “Involvement is key, and there is a lot of les Trade-Technical College graduate who was interested demand. We are not doing mass production. I knit what I need knowledge here. They brought good speakers who had a lot in haute couture but left the industry behind 10 years ago. and don’t waste a lot of yarn. With the whole-garment tech- of information to share.” ●

REAL ESTATE

Malls Continued from page 1

Another was the One Paseo retail center in Del Mar, Calif. It opened in March. Only a couple of new malls were opened because there is less of the raw material that new projects need to get developed. Large tracts of open land are a rare find in crowded coastal California, said Larry Kosmont, president of Kosmont Com- panies, a Los Angeles–headquartered real-estate and economic-development-services firm. Also, consumers’ shopping preferences have changed, and digital commerce has taken market share away from malls, Kosmont said. The shift has cut into the demand for malls. But opportunity remains for retail centers, said Jean Paul Wardy, president of CenterCal LLC, the El Segundo, Calif.– based company that developed 2nd & PCH. CenterCal also PASEO NUEVO CENTERCAL developed The Veranda mall in Concord, Calif. It was one 2nd & PCH Paseo Nuevo rendering of the few new malls to open in California in 2018. Another one was Palisades Village, the Caruso mall in Los Angeles’ Pacific Palisades neighborhood. retail center was constructed in its place. Wardy declined to Owned by Pacific Retail Capital Partners, Paseo Nuevo Residents of well-to-do areas of Long Beach such as the state how much money it cost to develop the center, but a 2017 will be completing the first phase of a $20 million remodel for Belmont Shores and Naples neighborhoods have to make long Los Angeles Times story said it was $100 million. a center that was introduced in 1990, said Mary Lynn Harms- drives to shop at traditional malls such as Lakewood Center. 2nd & PCH is anchored by a Whole Foods supermarket, Romo, Paseo Nuevo’s senior marketing manager. Shopping for much of these affluent Long Beach neighbor- which opened on Oct. 23, but fashion will be a big deal at the A lot of the remodeling costs have paid for new brick pav- hoods is served by boutique districts such as 2nd Street in Bel- space. Fashion retail is anchored by an Urban Outfitters and ers in the open-air mall as well as a new infrastructure for utili- mont Shores or retail centers with supermarkets, big boxes and a Lululemon Athletica that also opened on Oct. 24. ties such as cables that provide networking for the retail center cinemas, such as the Marina Pacifica Mall and Marketplace Other fashion retailers include Johnny Was, Free People in downtown Santa Barbara. Long Beach. and a location for Linne’s, which is a Seal Beach, Calif., bou- The remodel will also create common areas where shoppers Wardy said that the absence of traditional malls in that area tique. Surf brand Vissla is also scheduled to open a boutique, can hang out. These lounges will feature a fire pit, outdoor attracted CenterCal. according to the retail center’s website. seating as well as places to play games such as the traditional “There was a lot of data that showed the customer was Wardy said that 2nd & PCH is about 95 percent leased. He Italian bowling game of Bocce. there. But there were no stores serving these customers,” he forecasted that the majority of the people going to the mall “Creating a nicer environment will attract better retail- said. “There was a long list of retailers that had never landed will be Long Beach residents. Other shoppers will be drawn ers,” Harms-Romo said. “Shopping centers are changing, in Long Beach for one reason or another.” from around the region. CenterCal is not taking customer traf- and we’re trying to be ahead of the curve. It’s going to be Fortunately, some property was becoming available. fic for granted. more of a destination for multiple things, not just a shopping Raymond Lin and his family were seeking to redevelop the Along with seeking out new retailers, 2nd & PCH will be center.” Seaport Marina Hotel in Long Beach, which happens to producing events to draw in customers. “There will be mov- Paseo Nuevo is anchored by a Nordstrom. Other tenants be located by the corner of 2nd Street and Pacific Coast ies in the park, concerts and art activities. We do a lot to cre- include a Gap and a Pacific Sunwear. Much of the center Highway. ate a place where customers can be with loved ones and en- has been leased, Harms-Romo said, because the center of- For four years, CenterCal was in talks with Lin on bringing joy themselves. We like to try a lot of things and see what fers short-term leases. A couple of years ago, a puppet theater a retail center to the space. Negotiations were successful. In resonates. There’s a lot of trial and error,” Wardy explained. leased a storefront for 90 days. Santa Barbara–based Deckers 2017, the hotel was demolished, and the 215,000-square-foot “We’re being guided by what the customer wants.” Inc. also has produced pop-up shops at Paseo Nuevo. ●

APPARELNEWS.NET NOVEMBER 1–7, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01-3-cover-copy.indd 3 10/31/19 7:03 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Returning to Los Angeles, Vegan Fashion Week Goes Ethical and Green By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor sions to make sustainability the norm, not just the aspiration.” California Fashion Foundation The second edition of Emmanuelle Rien- The event continued at the California From the heart of the California Fashion Association da’s Vegan Fashion Week took place in Market Center Oct. 14–15 under a tradi- downtown Los Angeles under the theme tional trade-show model as Vegan World, “Fashion Is Activism,” which not only fo- a destination in which vegan apparel-and- cused on cruelty-free fashion but also ex- lifestyle brands exhibited their goods. On amined the apparel industry’s impact on the the night of Oct. 14, Rienda hosted a fashion Please Donate! planet’s ecological systems. Held Oct. 10–15, show with many designs relying on upcycled Vegan Fashion Week coincided with Los An- and recycled materials. We ask for your continued generosity in support of geles’ mainstream fashion-week productions At the booth for the Los Angeles apparel the Fashion Foundation’s annual event, benefiting and L.A. Market Week, brand Blue District, founder affording access to an ex- Cici Voise was excited to 200 children from families with limited means. This panded audience. It was introduce attendees to her celebration is often the only one these children have... also during this time that brand. Using nontoxic dyes, the office of California recycled polyester and ny- Governor Gavin Newsom lon, as well as more-natural announced on Oct. 12 that options including cotton, he had signed into law AB Modal, viscose, ramie, and 72nd Annual Christmas 44, which banned the sale Tencel, Voise noted that she of new fur—a first for any approaches manufacturing Event for Children state in the United States. with green intentions but she “Being vegan is not is always searching to prog- Wednesday, December 11, 2019 about the clothes you wear ress further into sustainable or the food you eat. It’s a apparel. 3:30pm - 5:30pm real lifestyle and under- “My footwear is polyure- Cooper Design Space standing of values to cre- thane, but hopefully for next 860 S. Los Angeles Street, Penthouse ate a cruelty-free world,” spring I am going to do cac- explained Rienda as she tus leather,” she said. “The addressed the audience on Oct. 10. “We can supplier says it’s as durable as any other faux Please join your fellow industry members and contribute evolve as a society and try to be compassion- leather, but it’s also green. Footwear is dif- dollars for gifts for the children’s gift bags. ate to all species. This is something that is ficult because you need it to be strong, water- very real.” proof, and I want to prove that you can have An opening-night celebration was hosted high-quality footwear.” BE A SPONSOR AND JOIN US! at the Theatre at Ace Hotel on Oct. 10, As a Vegan World attendee, Coalition Confirmed Sponsors to date include: which included performances by artists such Apparel Inc. Public Relations Manager Ni- as Kate Nash and an awards ceremony for cole Lau appreciated the various panels that California Apparel News; Aims 360; Ann Davis; Barbara the most influential vegan creative leaders. were featured. She found time to explore Fields; Ben & Joyce Eisenberg Foundation/The New Receiving the award for best vegan designer these options despite planning for the Los was Nicole Blue, while Constantin Le Fou, Angeles–based cruelty-free brand’s own cel- Mart; Cooper Design Space; CIT; Findings Inc.; FIDM; the Vegan Club founder, won for best artist. ebration with an event on Oct. 16. The focus Fineman West; Jakk’s Toys; Jainsons International, Inc.; Los Angeles–based designer Chloe Tru- on sourcing vegan materials was particularly Jerry Leigh; J.P. Morgan Chase; Karen Kane; Kaufman & jillo co-hosted the opening event and noted helpful, according to Lau, yet she noted that the evolution toward sustainable manufactur- sustainability doesn’t rely solely on creating Kabani; KWDZ Manufacturing; Moss Adams; Nature USA; ing methods. new products with green materials. Ragfinders of CA; Stony Apparel; Tiger Group; “Even larger commercial brands are rec- “Sustainability is an overarching point. White Oak Commercial Finance ognizing the importance of this path, es- It’s about recycling clothes,” she said. “Sus- pecially when it comes to trade programs, tainability is also about the ability to be able manufacturing methods and conditions,” she to recycle materials. In the fashion show, Donations made payable to: said. “As public support for these initiatives there was a piece made out of a mattress. continues to grow, we’ll continue to see more They repurposed the entire product into a California Fashion Foundation leaders step up globally and make bold deci- wearable style.” 444 S. Flower Street, 37th Floor Los Angeles, CA 90071 or ... call 213 688 6288 Calendar Nov. 4 Denver London Through Nov. 12 Through Nov. 21 Coast Moore Building Nov. 13 Nov. 24 Miami Through Nov. 5 Performance Days—Functional DG Expo Fabric & Trim Show Fabric Fair San Francisco Hilton Hotel Nov. 5 Messe München Financial District / Chinatown Munich San Francisco CALA Through Nov. 14 Through Nov. 25 Fort Mason Center San Francisco Nov. 19 Through Nov. 6 Kingpins New York Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Pier 36 Basketball City Colorado Convention Center New York Denver There’s more Through Nov. 20 on ApparelNews.net. Through Nov. 7 Nov. 20 Nov. 11 For calendar details and contact Texfusion London information, visit ApparelNews. CALA Business Design Centre net/events. Denver Merchandise Mart Submissions to the calendar should be emailed to the Calendar Editor at [email protected]. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2019 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first The California Fashion Foundation is established as a 501(c)(3) week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their California Public Benefit Corporation. Tax ID: 95-4677121 advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

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Catch Michelle Charbel Zoe Charles & Ron Chavez Art Hearts Fashion Sets the City Beat During Los Angeles Fashion Week

By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor and featured Los Angeles–based designers and interna- Testi, Tony Iniguez, Michael Ngo, Rosete’s Mister Triple X, tional clothiers. Puey Quiñones, Sarmy and Usama Ishtay. From the edgy to the ethereal, designers hailing from Hitting the runway were California-based Art Hearts vet- Creating an artistic experience, the Art Hearts Fashion pro- different style backgrounds unveiled Spring/Summer erans including swimwear brand Argyle Grant, Fernando ducers blended contemporary works of art with clothing that 2020 designs during Art Hearts Fashion at Los Angeles Alberto Atelier, Kenneth Barlis, Kentaro Kameyama, Merlin ranged from classic, tailored pieces to avant-garde designs. event space the Majestic Downtown, a 30,000-square- Castell, Nathalia Gaviria and Venus Prototype, which featured Los Angeles designer Michael Costello closed the final night, foot space that dates back to 1924. With Erik Rosete at structured vinyl creations. A strong California presence was showcasing flowing gowns and intricately designed formal- the helm, this season’s production was hosted Oct. 17–20 also found through presentations from Dulce Bestia, Giovanni wear featuring delicate embellishments. ●

Cross For God Dair Design Dulce Bestia Endure. Defy. Rise

Exes Italia Fernando Alberto Atelier Giovanni Testi Kahini

Kenneth Barlis Kentaro Kameyama Lila Nikole Lulu Et Gigi

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

06-7-arthearts.indd 6 10/31/19 7:26 PM FASHION ARUN NEVADER Merlin Castell Michael Costello Michael Ngo Mister Triple X

Nathalia Gaviria Puey Quiñones Sarmy Tony Iniguez

Usama Ishtay Venus Prototype Wanda Beauchamp

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Apparel News Group CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR PUBLISHED BY Go Beyond LOUISE DAMBERG TLM PUBLISHING INC. DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING APPAREL NEWS GROUP TERRY MARTINEZ Publishers of: California Apparel News 741945-2019 SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE the News and Waterwear AMY VALENCIA Seventy-four years of news, Decorated fashion and information ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE LYNNE KASCH EXECUTIVE OFFICE Behind the California Market Center BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT CEO/PUBLISHER MOLLY RHODES 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 TERRY MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 Scenes SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT/ (213) 627-3737 RECEPTIONIST www.apparelnews.net CHLOË HULETT MANAGING EDITOR [email protected] The editors and DOROTHY CROUCH ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS RETAIL EDITOR ASHLEY KOHUT PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. writers of ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN RACHEL MARTINEZ CONTRIBUTORS California Apparel TIM REGAS SALES ASSISTANT NICOLE MARTINEZ PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY JOHN MCCURRY CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE News are blogging at NATALIE ZFAT JEFFERY YOUNGER VOLKER CORRELL JOHN ECKMIER PRODUCTION MANAGER ApparelNews.net CHRIS MARTIN KENDALL IN NICK VERREOS FINANCE Apparel News Group WEB PRODUCTION DAVID MARTINEZ MORGAN WESSLER 110 E. Ninth St., Ste. #A-777 Los Angeles, CA 90079 www.apparelnews.net

APPARELNEWS.NET NOVEMBER 1–7, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

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After Charting a Course With New Tech, Cute Booty Lounge Tries Bricks-and-Mortar TPC Holiday Party! By Andrew Asch Retail Editor will be called Cute Booty Lounge, on Nov. 7. Join us for a fun night of cocktails and holiday cheer It will be located at the Westfield Topanga If there’s a new way to spread a message mall in Los Angeles’ Canoga Park section. to close out a wonderful year! about fashion or develop a new sales channel, “Most people are not opening retail Kelly Nishimoto has been in the vanguard. stores,” she conceded about a market where In 2008, Nishimoto shifted all sales of physical retail remains important but has Tue., Dec. 3, 5:30 - 8:30 p.m. her lifestyle-and-active brand Cute Booty faced declining numbers. Lounge to e-commerce, much of it sold on But her business partner and significant her direct-to-consumer channel, cutebooty. other, Anthony Harris, suggested that the The Palm com. A few years later, she started commu- brand develop a flagship that would support nicating to her customers primarily through social media. The brand will make content for 1100 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, CA 90015 social media. And she was a host of TLC its digital sites at the shop. Social-media influ- channel’s bridal-dress makeover show encers will be invited in to create content too. “Something Borrowed, Something New” “It’s an experience for customers,” she $95 Early Bird available until 11/29*, $125 at the door* from 2011 to 2014. said of the shop. “We don’t want people to The inspiration for Cute Booty Lounge just walk in and then leave with clothes. We www.theprofessionalclub.com started in 2003. Nishimoto was designing want to provide a Cute Booty experience. It’s her now-defunct, self-named Kelly Nishi- not just for us. It’s for the social-media influ- moto line. She was shopping for leggings encers. They can pass along content to their and sweatpants, but everything she tried on followers.” seemed to flatten curves rather than accentu- The upcoming Cute Booty Lounge store To Register, ate them. To experiment, she took a pair of will be located in a space across from a Louis sweats and added a piece of elastic on the Vuitton shop and a Jimmy Choo boutique. Scan QR code back seam. The elastic gave more room for “We’re rolling into a luxury section,” she curves. She later experimented with placing said of the new space. “To me we’re the reb- scrunchy pockets around the back seam of els moving into the luxury-goods area.” her leggings. These details accentuated the Along with frequently scouting new trends Big Thanks to Our 2019 Sponsors curves even more. and technology, Nishimoto hopes to provide Nishimoto liked what she saw, but she an alternative. With her current project, the didn’t know if anyone else would. Her sweat- moniker Cute Booty Lounge was meant to pants remained at the back of a closet for a make people smile, make a statement and of- year. One day, she was in a rush to drive to fer some truth in advertising. the gym and she put on the sweatpants she “One of the things I hated about fashion had ignored. During her training session, is that people took it too seriously,” she said. she got a lot of compliments from women “They looked down on people who did not who asked her where she had purchased her design like them. I told myself that when I sweats. have my own line I would always keep it fun, She made more sweatpants for herself and I want to use real women for fit models. in different colors. She was getting enough I always try to use a curvier girl. On social interest where she was confident in taking a media and in stores, you want to have images risk on developing some activewear styles. that you can relate to.” Adding a new feature, Nishimoto designed a Cute Booty Lounge employs 19 staffers rounded pocket placed at the bottom of the and is made in Los Angeles. Nishimoto is the pant seat. She said that it gives the illusion of sole owner and creative director. She and her a more toned bottom. “There’s nothing lifting staff design prints for the line, which include it up or pushing it up,” she said. “It’s just a florals, camos, animal prints and houndstooth strategically placed pocket.” with other looks available in solids. During a 2005 Mercedes Benz Los An- Pieces are often assigned humorous geles Fashion Week runway show for the names, such as a camouflage legging called Kelly Nishimoto brand, she introduced the Love Is a Battlefield. A legging with a floral active styles with ruched pockets and a curvy pattern is dubbed A Rose I Suppose. The line silhouette. Sales for the activewear pieces be- also makes sports bras, sleepwear, thongs, gan to outpace her contemporary line. When jumpsuits and dresses. Styles are made in a partnership with an investor for the Kelly an extended size range that spans from XXS Nishimoto line was not renewed, she chose to to XXXL. For the holidays, the line will in- focus on activewear styles and call the effort troduce curvy sizes that feature clothes with Cute Booty Lounge. more room for women with larger busts and For her next move, Nishimoto is making hips and small waists. the counterintuitive choice to open a bricks- Retail price points range from $49 for facebook.com/ twitter.com/TheProfClub theprofessionalclub.com and-mortar store in a mall. The Los Ange- a basic lifestyle legging with no scrunchy les–headquartered Nishimoto is scheduled pockets to $149 for elevated leggings and TheProfessionalClub to open a 3,500-square-foot shop, which also $200 for jumpsuits and dresses. ●

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

08-active.indd 8 10/31/19 6:26 PM T-SHIRTS W-A-S-H Makes a Statement While Flexing Its Creative Muscles

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor also has ceased production. They partnered on trips across the United States The lifestyle brand We Are Simply looking to sell their brands to indepen- Human mixes cut-and-sew T-shirts and a dent retailers. punk, agitprop-style of graphics. It made While Gondelman continues to a debut into the wholesale business at make digital and broadcast commer- the LA Men’s Market, which ran Oct. cials for his company CitizenIdo, he 15–16 at the California Market Center. has also continued to make fashion. The brand started in March and is primar- In a studio in Burbank, Calif., Gondel- ily sold on its direct-to-consumer channel, man and the Verhoevens make custom wash-clothing.com. dyes for their collection. The team also The Los Angeles–headquartered collaborates on graphics for the tees, W-A-S-H is helmed by fashion veterans which are intended to have a worn, Ido Gondelman and the husband-and-wife vintage look. team of Jason and Denise Verhoeven. They Different categories of the brand’s manufactured the brand to make a state- tees include the head of the Statue of ment and to flex some creative muscle, Liberty depicted under a backdrop of Gondelman said. The brand’s graphics, an overcast sky. The graphic is mixed such as in its Strength in Numbers T-shirt, with the W-A-S-H logo, and the brand’s evoke a shared humanity among people. motto, Strength in Numbers, is placed “People are stronger together than on the shirt in a graffiti-style font. alone,” Gondelman said. “Together we than the average T-shirt silhouette.” They define the whole Other styles include a pocket tee have power to make change.” collection, which includes hoodies, sweatpants, jackets and with a stencil of a woman’s lipstick-accentuated face bounded Jason Verhoeven designed the now-defunct Brown La- knit caps, as gender neutral. by the angry words “No One Really Cares.” Another look fea- bel denim brand in the mid-2000s and continues to work Jason Verhoeven and Gondelman both grew up in Cana- tures a raised fist bearing the brand’s name, “We Are Simply in product development for other brands. He and his manu- da, but they met each other in Los Angeles. Gondelman was Human.” facturing partners developed W-A-S-H’s cut-and-sew crew- trained as an artist and an animator. He started designing fash- Wholesale price points for the T-shirts are $21.75. Pro- neck tees. ion as a hobby. When Verhoeven was selling Brown Label, ceeds from the label’s sales go to nonprofits such as Donor- “It’s not trendy or super baggy,” he said. “It’s a little wider Gondelman developed his own brand, Kings of Glory, which Choose, who provides funds to public schools. ●

FOOTWEAR House Shoes From Jill Burrows Lend Style to Staying at Home By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor “It’s been wonderful to drive up to a limited-edition men’s collection in North Hollywood to work with them 9–13 for Holiday 2018. Due to her Feeling the need to remain fashionable at the most casual and make sure the fit is perfect,” she predominantly direct-to-consumer moments of her life, including spending downtime at home, said. “I love working with craftsmen, business model, Burrows will by- Jill Burrows has long experienced a desire to own well-made and I love to drive up to North Hol- pass repeating styles that don’t per- slippers. Despite her thoughts that it would be easy to find a lywood and work with them.” form well or will include them only quality-made, stylish slipper that didn’t resemble an accouter- Using leather sourced from the seasonally, yet she will accept cus- ment to sleepwear, Burrows couldn’t quite locate a proper fit United States, Italy and South Amer- tom orders. for her vision. ica for the products’ uppers, the col- “It’s demand and the seasonal- “I wanted house shoes that weren’t hot, fuzzy slippers,” she lection relies on a type of foam for ity,” she explained. “I am such a said. “Even in the summertime, I wasn’t finding something the lining that is often included in small business that I have to pick that was really fashionable. I didn’t want to feel stripped down athletic shoes. The Puron foam af- and choose what is included in my to pajamas all the time. It should be something that looked fords long wear without breaking inventory at any one time.” great even when I was at home.” down. To promote Jill Burrows, the While living in London, Burrows found traditional Moroc- “If you wear them on the week- founder is exploring corporate- can babouches, which caught her eye as a potential design. ends all day long, which so many gifting partnerships that are popular Once she moved to Los Angeles and had a baby, Burrows people tell me they wear them ev- during the holidays—with com- became aware of the pollutants that could be tracked into her ery moment when they’re home, the panies including luxury hotelier home and was committed to creating the product for which foams will wear out quickly, so I Palihouse and British brand Paul she had long searched, deciding in 2017 to launch her epony- researched a resilient material,” she Smith—and pop-up partnerships mous line of Jill Burrows house shoes. said. “Puron will not flatten out.” with local retailers. This weekend, Burrows is collaborating “I moved to L.A., had a baby and was living in downtown For her winter collection, which is launching Nov. 4, Bur- for the second time with the Anki Spets–founded bedding Los Angeles. I stopped wearing shoes inside my house be- rows is adding a new feature to two of her designs. A shearling shop Area in Beverly Hills, Calif., a partnership that will last cause when I walked inside from downtown it seemed dis- lining will be included in a black-and-burgundy pair and a through November. The showcase will also include products gusting to bring in these outdoor elements as my baby crawled style in winter white with peach and tan details. from Lait candles by Jennifer Rhee and ceramics artist Raina on the floor,” she explained. “I kept thinking, ‘Other people “They are lined with shearling from South America on the J. Lee to highlight the work of local Los Angeles design busi- must need these slippers as well,’ so I looked into having them top because I find a lot of shearling slippers lined on top and nesses that were founded by women. made on my own.” bottom tend to overheat feet and the bottom shearling starts “We wanted to create more foot traffic through collabora- Initially, remaining true to the origin of the design was matting quickly,” she explained. “The top is lined and warms tions because we want to showcase local designers who have important, and Burrows wanted to source the slippers from your feet. The bottom is still lined with the Italian leather of a small footprint,” explained Leah Cooper, an Area associate. Morocco, yet after a year of trying to make it work she found the other slippers. They remain clean and, still, elegant.” “Jill is the perfect person. She started off with an idea and was that the traditional pieces were cut wide, yielding a different Though these colors are new to the line, Burrows does so into the design aspect that it kind of made her obsessed, so fit than the house shoe she had envisioned. To tell a story of maintain a few favorite colorways in an indigo blue that we could relate to that.” quality work performed by skilled workers who perfected features a back of gold and a bright white, which includes a Retailing between $128 and $138 per pair, Jill Burrows is their craft, Burrows decided to manufacture in Los Angeles, gold front and forest-green back. Her designs are primarily available online at shopjillburrows.com and at select pop-up partnering with Rouben Thompson and his wife, Gemma. available to women in whole sizes 6–10, but she did create shops. ●

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