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FASHION’S NEW FRIEND De Blasio Talks Up NYC Manufacturing

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

NEW YORK CITY MAYOR Bill de Blasio may be only a month into his administration, but he made it loud and clear Thursday that the fashion industry has a friend in City Hall. Affable and at times offhandedly funny during a FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY press conference at the CFDA’s Fashion Incubator, WWD the mayor eased up on the jokes when discussing his commitment to building local apparel manufacturing. Speaking poignantly about how his maternal grand- mother made her way in America by starting an embroidery business, de Blasio said new generations of immigrants still consider a job in fashion to be the gateway to a better life. The more than 180,000 people working in New York City’s fashion industry generate wages of nearly $11 billion a year. “That’s really money where I come from,” he said. “The fashion industry is not just a part of our past. It is not just iconic because [of] what it once was. It’s iconic because of what it will be. And it is part of how we will build a more unifi ed city and a city where everyone has opportunities. It is part of how we will build one New York where everyone rises together and opportunity is something that is available to all,” de Blasio said. “And that includes people who have not had as many opportunities and chances to work in this industry. We want to work closely with this industry to maximize opportunity and to make it a fi ve- borough phenomenon.” To that end, his deputy mayor for housing and economic development, Alicia Glen, a former Goldman Sachs executive, will serve as the mayor’s liaison to the fashion industry and will lead efforts to grow fashion in all fi ve boroughs. “We need to recognize that for all its glamour, and yes there is glamour, the fashion industry is built on the hard work of highly skilled people, thousands and thousands of highly skilled people whose names may not be on the covers SEE PAGE 8

Rough Month at Retail And Outlook Tougher

By ARNOLD J. KARR

IT COULD HAVE BEEN WORSE, and it might take a while for it to get better. That was the message behind reports from retailers Thursday on January and fourth-quarter sales, which combined with 2014 forecasts from the A New Affair National Retail Federation and Customer Growth Ralph Lauren’s 15-year-old Romance women’s scent is about to get a Partners to paint a picture of a retail market that is more sensuous and naughtier little sister, Midnight Romance. It will be likely to remain intensely promotional and highly vul- nerable to the effects of harsh winter weather and a launched in April in the U.S., with the idea of bringing “women to a world sputtering recovery for at least the ﬁ rst half. of passion and love,” said Guillaume de Lesquen, worldwide president NRF expects retail sales — exclusive of restau- of Ralph Lauren Fragrances at L’Oréal USA. For more, see page 9. rants, automotive and gas stations — to grow 4.1 percent this year, while CGP is looking for more modest 2.8 percent growth, including apparel and accessories expansion of 2.3 percent that is led by accessories, well below the 3.8 percent growth of 2013, which was also highlighted by accessories. But neither group expects it to be easy. Among the small sample of stores that continue to report comparable sales on a monthly basis, January concluded with a median comp increase of 3.6 percent when drugstores were excluded, higher than the 2 percent gain expected, on average, by analysts sur- veyed by Thomson Reuters. Better-than-expected gains in the month from L Brands Inc. (9 percent), Costco Wholesale Corp. (5 percent) and Gap Inc. (up 1 percent versus an expected decline of 1.3 percent) helped el- PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO, STYLED BY SHARON BER evate the Thomson Reuters composite number. SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 WWD.COM MAC in Fashion Sponsorship THE BRIEFING BOX educational seminars and panel discussions on the IN TODAY’S WWD By PETE BORN synergy between beauty and fashion which helps to bring each designer’s creations to life on the runway. NEW YORK — MAC Cosmetics has signed a three-year MAC will also be providing backstage makeup sup- Joe Jonas at the Duckie Brown show. agreement — valued at about $1 million by industry port during Fashion Week, and throughout the year For more from New York Fashion Week, see WWD.com. estimates — as an underwriter and sponsor of three for look books, resort and pre-fall collections and CFDA programs: The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the various other events. Additionally, John Demsey will CFDA Fashion Incubator, as well as becoming sole join the Business Advisory Committee of the CFDA makeup sponsor of the Fashion Awards in June. Vogue Fashion Fund, and take part in the Incubator While MAC is embracing CFDA, it is also shed- mentoring program.” ding its role as the sole makeup presenting sponsor Steven Kolb, chief executive ofﬁcer of CFDA, of Made at Milk Studios, while continuing to work said there will be a collaborative relationship be- backstage with designers, as it does at Lincoln tween MAC and the designers, particularly in the Center and individual shows scattered around the Incubator program, that could result in the concep- city. MAC makeup artists will be working 76 shows tualization of products. during the eight days of New York Fashion Week Demsey asserted, “We are here because we be- and that is just a prelude to the organization’s in- long here, not because we wanted to buy a spot volvement around the world. This year MAC will here. This is an evolution and a reinforcement of take part in more than 850 shows globally. the work we will continue to do supporting design-

John Demsey, a group president of the Estée ers every single day over 23 fashion weeks. I view LEXIE MORELAND Lauder Cos., who oversees MAC, called the new re- this as putting a strong flag on the ground. We sup- lationship with CFDA “a unique partnership” rather port emerging talent as well as the existing stars of than a sponsorship. He pointed out that MAC has sup- today and tomorrow.” PHOTO BY ported fashion designers and their shows as far back Demsey added the decision to cease being the sole as the beginnings of the brand, some 25 years ago, and makeup sponsor of Made was arrived at “over the New York City Mayor Bill de Blasio, at his first official meet- has worked with CFDA shows as far removed as in past few months. As a founding sponsor of Made, we and-greet Thursday morning with the fashion crowd, vowed to Beijing. The brand’s involvement with the fashion truly believe in the program and its contribution to ex- boost local apparel manufacturing. PAGE 1 fund dates back to its inception a decade ago. posing artistic expression to the world. While we are Now to be aligned with the fashion fund, the inno longer continuing our front-of-house sponsorship, Retailers sharing recent results Thursday made it clear that cubator and the annual awards, which is the culmi- we are committed to supporting the designers there both January and the fourth quarter could have been worse and nation of the nurturing process, “we felt it was an and all over [fashion week] by providing makeup art- that conditions will remain challenging. PAGE 1 extraordinary opportunity and for us an important istry as well as guidance and assistance in many other statement in terms of our commitment to fashion, forms. We feel Made has grown to the level where it designers, New York and the organizationally im- can continue its programming, offering a superb plat- Lancel, owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, has PAGE 4 portant, transformative role that CFDA has played form to the next generation of designers.” named Marianne Romestain chief executive officer. in terms of America, the media and sponsoring de- During an earlier interview, Demsey said MAC signed-in-New York talent.” had decided to concentrate its money backstage “to J.C. Penney Co. Inc. is working with three companies to Diane von Furstenberg, CFDA president, said, “In make sure it gets to the talent that needs the cura- develop land adjacent to its Plano, Tex., headquarters. PAGE 4 support of the Fashion Incubator, MAC will provide tion and the development of the evolution.” Ralph Lauren’s venerable Romance women’s scent is getting a sexy sister in the form of Midnight Romance. PAGE 9

Eddie Bauer in Early Stages of Turnaround The message coming out of the ECRM Efficient Program Planning Session was that mass-market retailers want value North American Outdoor business and The North PAGE 9 By and products not offered at the chain next door. VICKI M. YOUNG Face, provided metrics on what seemed to be still early stages of a turnaround at the specialty chain. Parfums Givenchy is adding a new olfactory variation, L’Eau JOS. A. BANK CLOTHIERS INC. may want to acquire Having joined Eddie Bauer in June 2012, the ceo is en rose, to its Very Irrésistible franchise. PAGE 9 Eddie Bauer, but is that a good move for either firm? nearly two years into his five-year plan. The companies have been in talks about an ac- “We’ve had 16 industry awards in the last 18 months Devotees of Rachel Comey’s brand of offbeat chic joined the quisition as Jos. A. Bank tries to fend off a hostile [and] the outdoor industry is recognizing the inno- designer Wednesday for her typically unconventional fashion takeover by its competitor The Men’s Wearhouse vation level in our product.…We’ve seen some nice PAGE 10 Inc., after Jos. A. Bank first tried to bid for Men’s traction that has accelerated toward the end of the show-cum-dinner party in Brooklyn. Wearhouse in September. year. We had comparable-store sales just under 5 per- Golden Gate Capital acquired Eddie Bauer in cent during holiday, a 15 percent comps increase in Pilar Guzmán has been revamping Condé Nast Traveler since PAGE 10 2009 out of bankruptcy for $286 million in cash. December, and we ended the year with positive comps she took over the top job just over six months ago. The private equity firm is atypical in that it has no that were up 1 percent for the entire year,” he said. specific time frame in mind prior to any attempt to Carolina Herrera will receive the 2014 Couture Council Award monetize an investment. It was also partnering with for Artistry of Fashion on Sept. 3. PAGE 11 Jos. A. Bank in its initial bid for Men’s Wearhouse, providing $250 million in equity capital. Men’s L’Uomo Vogue, in partnership with The Woolmark Co., will Wearhouse rebuffed Jos. A. Bank’s offer and has now dedicate its March edition to Australia. PAGE 11 begun an unsolicited takeover bid for Jos. A. Bank that’s set to expire on March 28. ON WWD.COM Gilbert Harrison of Financo Inc., Jos. A. Bank’s financial adviser, and executives at Golden Gate declined to comment about the talks with Eddie Bauer, as RUNWAY: Joe Jonas, Nick Wooster, Nigel Barker and did Michael R. Egeck, chief executive officer of Bauer. Robert Verdi were among the front-row guests at Duckie Market intelligence early Wednesday had Jos. A. Brown’s fall show. For more, see WWD.com. Bank and Eddie Bauer still in discussions, but one source said price might be a stumbling block. It was unclear by week’s end how much further those talks A look inside Eddie Bauer. had progressed. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Stifel analyst Richard Jaffe, who covers Men’s @ WWD.com/social Wearhouse, said an acquisition of Eddie Bauer Egeck said Eddie Bauer’s main competitors are “would significantly diminish the appeal of [Jos. A. The North Face, Columbia Sportswear, Timberland, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Bank] as an acquisition by Men’s Wearhouse, which is REI, Patagonia and L.L. Bean. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. probably an objective, whether it is authentic interest Annual volume is $1.3 billion in worldwide sales, COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. or merely a ploy.” including licensed businesses, with the U.S. market VOLUME 207, NO. 26. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, Mark Montagna, an analyst at Avondale Partners, at $1.1 billion, Egeck said. Bauer’s e-commerce op- and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance who covers Jos. A. Bank, said, “Eddie Bauer would eration is about one-third of its total business. The Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, be a bad fit. People under the age of 40 have mini- company has an active customer file “in excess of Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, mal awareness of the brand. If Eddie Bauer is such four million” names and sends out 66 million cata- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West a desirable acquisition, at this point [Golden Gate] logues a year, totaling 5.9 billion pages, according Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, would already have [done] an initial public offering to Egeck. There are 380 stores globally, with 324 in Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. [for the brand].” the U.S. and Canada. It opened five stores last year. com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service According to Montagna, Men’s Wearhouse is still Even presuming a deal for Bauer gets done, address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within the best option for Jos. A. Bank, although given the there’s a chance it could get undone. That’s be- one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever animosity that has developed between the two com- cause Eminence Capital, which has stakes in both dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new panies, “it’s a wonder how a merger would ever work. Jos. A. Bank and Men’s Wearhouse and is pushing subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please Would the two teams be able to work together?” for Jos. A. Bank to negotiate with Men’s Wearhouse, call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Montagna did note that there’s pressure ahead filed a complaint in a Delaware Chancery Court last Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our in terms of growth for Jos. A. Bank. “The retailer month seeking to block Jos. A. Bank, via prelimi- subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest only has room for another 130 full-line stores in the nary and permanent injunctions, from making any our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR U.S. and 57 more factory doors. There’s not a lot of acquisition. Earlier this week, it amended its com- DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED domestic store growth ahead of them,” he said. plaint naming Bauer as the target of the blocking TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Egeck, who has a strong reputation in the ac- transaction and noting that Men’s Wearhouse con- UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND tive outdoor space having had stints at VF Corp.’s tinues to pursue a deal for Jos. A. Bank. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. DRIVES MORE SALES

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{Continued from page one} its January rise at 1 percent, in- Shay said he hoped greater Thursday also brought quar- cluded a 10 percent decline in political certainty would lead terly updates from several retail- January at Banana Republic, as to more robust growth, which ers that no longer participate in Gap brand was up 1 percent and in turn would lead to “less reli- the monthly reporting ritual. Old Navy up 4 percent. ance on signiﬁcant promotion Chief among these was Kohl’s The San Francisco-based and the restoration of integrity Corp., which, without disclosing sportswear giant now expects of pricing.” January sales results, reported earnings per share of 65 to 66 that comparable-store sales fell cents for the fourth quarter, above

2 percent during the quarter the existing consensus estimate while rising 0.8 percent in the of 60 cents. Shares jumped 4.5 November-December holiday percent in after-hours trading fol- 2.8% period, implying, according to lowing the release of results after several analysts, a double-digit gaining 3.7 percent, to $39.71, dur- GROWTH RATE FOR 2014 decline in the quarter’s lowest- ing Thursday’s bullish session. ’’ RETAIL SALES EXPECTED BY sales month. During a conference call to The Menomonee Falls, Wis.- discuss its forecast of 4.1 per- CUSTOMER GROWTH PARTNERS. based midtier retailer low- cent growth in overall retail ered quarterly profit guidance sales, NRF officials didn’t break to about $1.53 a diluted share down expectations by classifica- Still he acknowledged that from an earlier range of $1.59 tion or sector, but did say that “pricing is much more transpar- to $1.74. But it said the decrease online sales are seen expanding ent today” because of extensive was mainly due to “unanticipat- between 9 and 12 percent within online offerings. “Consumers have ed expenses” incurred for its e- the overall projection. been conditioned, and that will commerce business. Matthew Shay, president and continue going into the future.” In adjusting the market’s Ann Inc. shares rose 4.2 percent on Thursday. ceo of NRF, noted, “We’re now Craig Johnson, president of bottom-line expectations, Kohl’s five, six years into the recovery CGP, said that he expected “the

as a “relief rally” and said he pressures and intense competi- remained cautious about the tive landscapes.” fourth-quarter earnings season Ann Inc. also logged a strong The January numbers on comp-store and forward-looking guidance, stock performance, rising 4.2 4.1% which he believes “will be filled percent to $32.67, despite its up- sales make it clear that consumers with cautious tones from mandate on a fourth quarter marked GROWTH RATE FOR 2014 agement teams given the weak by a “lower than anticipated” RETAIL SALES EXPECTED BY THE holiday period, a rough start to performance. are still being very careful with NATIONAL RETAIL FEDERATION. [the first quarter] hurt by weath- The retailer said earnings er, general [macroeconomic] and sales for the fourth quarter the way they spend their dollars. will exceed those of the 2012 pe- cited not only lower traffic, a riod, but investors focused on — MATTHEW SHAY, nearly universal complaint the company’s expectation of a NATIONAL RETAIL FEDERATION among stores analyzing the latter Fourth-Quarter higher gross margin — about 49.2 part of the quarter, but “low lev- percent of sales — in the quarter els of clearance merchandise” Comparable Sales as they drove the stock up. from our recession. The January weakness of January to extend in its discussion of the sales slip % Change Kay Krill, president and numbers on comp-store sales into the summer,” with his 2.8 in the three-month period. Stein Mart 33.1.1 chief executive officer of Ann, make it clear that consumers are percent increase based on a The suggestion of lean inven- ...... said that “soft traffic and tepid still being very careful with the second half that is stronger than tories as the first quarter began Ann 3 consumer spending across the way they spend their dollars.” the first. this week helped lift Kohl’s ...... industry negatively impacted Even with unemployment Within his projections for the J.C. Penney 2 stock 3.5 percent to $51.55 as ...... us, particularly in factory outlet coming down and expected year is a 9.4 percent increase in the S&P 500 Retailing Industry Gap 1 centers and geographic regions to fall to about 6.5 percent in e-commerce, which “represents Group gained 2.3 percent to ...... that experienced extreme win- 2014, participation in the work- a continued deceleration’’ of the 871.65 to register its first three- L Brands 1 ter weather. Looking ahead, we force continues to decline and growth rate for online. That’s day winning streak of 2014...... have entered the first quarter “jobs” and “unemployment” are the first time since people began Retail stocks outperformed the Kohl’s --22 with clean inventories and fresh “fundamentally two different selling online in a major way ...... Dow Jones Industrial Average spring product at both brands.” things,” he observed. that the forecast isn’t for double- Zumiez --2.22.2 and S&P 500, which both rose ...... Comparable sales expanded Both Shay and Jack digit growth.” 1.2 percent, to 15,628.53 and Buckle --2.82.8 3 percent in the quarter with the Kleinhenz, NRF’s chief econo- Furthermore, he noted that 1,773.43, respectively...... Ann Taylor division’s 1 percent mist, pointed out that political much of the growth in e-com- Whether focused on sales Cato --33 decline offsetting Loft’s 6 per- uncertainty hurt consumer con- merce is now going to brick-and- and traffic or margins and in- ...... cent gain. Within those numbers, fidence in 2013 but many are mortar retailers who’ve diversi- ventories, fears about January Wet Seal --16.516.5 comps declined 6 percent at Ann optimistic that machinations in fied. “That’s good news, except and the fourth quarter had SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. Taylor outlet stores and were off Washington wouldn’t cause any when you look at ‘comp’ numbers RESULTS FOR ANN INC. AND GAP INC. been rife. Wells Fargo analyst INCLUDE E-COMMERCE. OTHERS ARE 4 percent at Loft’s outlets. damage in the new year. that are blended to include e-com- Paul Lejuez referred to retail FOR SAME-STORE SALES ONLY. Gap’s unexpected increase “We certainly created speed merce, it suggests that many of the stocks’ performance Thursday for the quarter, which matched bumps last year,” said Kleinhenz. store-only figures are negative.”

Romestain Tapped as Lancel CEO Penney’s to Develop Land Near HQ in France and internationally,” according DEPLOYING ITS real estate assets to senior vice president of real estate and By PAULINA SZMYDKE to the company. Most recently president generate badly needed cash, J.C. Penney property development at Penney’s. of Gérard Darel, Romestain also served Co. Inc. said today that it is working with “Karahan, Columbus and KDC are trust- PARIS — Lancel, owned by Compagnie as managing director at Comptoir des three companies to develop land adja- ed partners with a respected reputation, Financière Richemont SA, has named Cotonniers and Fast Retailing France. cent to its Plano, Tex., headquarters. and we believe they will develop the Marianne Romestain chief executive officer. Romestain joins Lancel following spec- Penney’s has formed a partnership with land adjacent to our home office thought- The French leather goods maker said ulation about the brand’s future within Team Legacy, a venture of Karahan Cos., fully. This new project will be a positive she would “move forward with the reposi- Richemont. Last year, the Swiss luxury Columbus Realty and KDC, to develop 240 venture for our company, our associates tioning of the brand initiated by the group group appointed Nomura Securities to acres of land acquired by and all of North Texas.” in 2012.” explore a sale of the accessories brand. the retailer in 1987, as it Shares of Penney’s Romestain succeeds Fabrizio Cardinali, However, Johann Rupert, Richemont’s prepared to relocate to rose 44 cents, or 8.4 per- who joined the Paris-based company in chairman and principal shareholder, ul- Plano from New York. cent, to $5.66 in New October 2012 and exited in June 2013 to timately pledged the group’s loyalty to its Penney’s home office was $5.66 York Stock Exchange become ceo of another Richemont brand, “soft luxury players.” completed in 1992. trading Thursday. They Alfred Dunhill, while still serving on The group revealed long-term invest- The project, called CLOSING PRICE OF PENNEY’S hit a 52-week low of $4.90 Lancel’s supervising committee. ments in that division — comprising Legacy West, is in the STOCK ON THURSDAY. on Wednesday, one day Last September, Nicole Stulman took Lancel, Chloé, Dunhill, Shanghai Tang, Legacy Business Park after reporting a 2 per- over the creative direction of Lancel, fol- Purdey, Azzedine Alaïa and Peter Millar and, Penney’s said, “will cent increase in fourth- lowing the relocation of longtime design- — to center on “retail stores and points be a natural extension of Legacy Town quarter comparable-store sales, the first er Leonello Borghi to New York. of sale,” according to Richemont’s chief Center,” a mixed-use development. such increase since the second quarter of Romestain’s arrival was effective Jan. financial officer Gary Saage. “We have seen a great deal of busi- 2011. However, the update implied a de- 20, but only disclosed on Thursday. Saage said these “could be signifi- ness and residential growth around the celerating trend in sales during the quar- Romestain began her luxury career cant,” with overall capital expenditure at home office over the last 25 years, and ter and a weak performance in January, at the Richemont-owned Cartier, “where Richemont standing at 800 million euros, now is the time to capitalize on this at- eroding investor confidence in the embat- she held several key managerial positions or $1.08 billion, a year. tractive asset,” said Katheryn Burchett, tled retailer. — ARNOLD J. KARR

6 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014

Creatures of the Wind: The topics covered during a preview of Creatures of the Wind Coach Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters’ fall collection ranged from the introduction of their “fur program,” established in part to flag Creatures of the Wind as a luxury line (in case there was any question) to their “knitwear program” to the “ideas of transcendence and monastic clothing,” which Peters said informed their creative concept. The strange scope of the conversation is no doubt music to the ears of the Dock Group, the investor group that last year took a financial stake in the label. Gabier and Peters seem to have no problem reckoning the aesthetic idiosyncrasies that built their profile with the practical demands of business. The collection they showed on Thursday was a testament to this, an evolution of eclectic wearability and creative reﬁnement. The fur was parceled out as accents, on baseball caps and as a built-in stole on the fabulous black- and-white mohair wrap coat that opened the show. The knits came as bright and cozy sweaters that gave softness to the structured fabrics the designers tend to favor. A hefty wool twill, for instance, was used on an evening skirt and a silk jacquard jacket that looked like wood grain. As for the transcendence, it was more straightforward than it sounded. Many of the silhouettes were based on traditional eastern garb — kimono tunics and wrap pieces styled in long, lean layers. And the color scheme of pretty pinks and purples, plus the occasional embroidered butterﬂy detail, channeled a mellow, happy state of mind.

Coach: With its graphic installation display and Joel Sternfeld’s giant photo of an Oregon street from 1979 as the backdrop to a small runway show, Coach’s level of presentation — its first during fashion week — was a strong debut for Stuart Vevers. The designer worked traditional American sportswear with a fresh perspective. “If there’s a familiarity, people can connect,” he said. The designer placed as much emphasis on outerwear as he did bags and Fall 2014 shoes, looking at fall through a distinct Americana lens with cinematic references like “The Shining” and “Badlands.” Vevers rendered coats — many New Yo r k Collections of them oversize in blanketlike wool, twill, leather and furry THE SCHEDULE IS ALREADY JAM-PACKED, WITH sheepskin — with a subtle utilitarian, workwear vibe that SHOWS FROM CREATURES OF THE was best captured with the WIND, COACH, RICHARD CHAI AND MORE. toggle numbers. Some of the chicest skirts came with round hems and hardware. One, for instance, brand needed. structured toppers and a base an ongoing collaboration with Duckie Brown on [real] women was covered in grommets and Richard Chai: A little definition of languid layers. The look was Andrew Marc — was best in and used softer fabrics.” paired with a leather moto has been in order as the very borrowed-from-the-boys, show, particularly the half- The attractive looks jacket and a polka-dot, tie- Richard Chai Love lineup specifically Chai’s boys. leather, half-plaid toggle coat included tailored pants in both collar shirt. It all worked well has yet to establish a strong Indeed, the men’s wear and a glazed wine-colored flowing silk and silk duchesse with the accessories, which identity in the women’s was more compelling as Chai moto coat. fabrics, some paired with included cross-body shearling contemporary market. This excelled in finding the right voluminous A-line Neoprene bags, whipstitch fringe styles time out, a grunge-inflected balance between modern Duckie Brown: Duckie Brown is tops. The designers also and shearling-lined wedge attitude marked by murky tailoring and a youthful street in the women’s business. That reworked classic men’s wear boots and platform sneakers. colors, cool slouchy tailoring aesthetic. Three-button blazers point was so crystal clear that motifs, using, for instance, a Vevers’ mandate was to and, of course, plaid, was a in petrol green and toffee it overshadowed Steven Cox macro Prince of Wales print reinvent Coach for a new direction worth developing. brown were often paired with and Daniel Silver’s men’s wear and multicolored checks on a generation. This impressive Cutaway blazers and oversize tweed sweatpants, while sharp effort for fall. “Duckie Brown textured wool coat. effort added a fashiony wrap coats in plaid, camel and top coats were layered over has always been about English The men’s group, inspired sensibility to the clothes — a chalky blue were the standout suits for a grown-up look. tailoring and women’s wear,” by eveningwear, was too which might be just what the statements, functioning as The leather outerwear — said Cox. “And this time we put dependant on shiny silk WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 7 WWD.COM

fabrics, i.e., the ultraﬁtted work ▲ coat worn over ﬂowy, pleated Richard Richard ▲ Duckie Brown Chai Chai red pants. A more convincing Love result came when the shine was given a masculine spin, such as with the voluminous polo and slim cigarette pants in monochromatic sage green. In order for Duckie Brown’s signature men’s wear to get its due, separate shows might be the way to go.

Rachel Comey: After showing her spring collection at Dustin Yellin’s Pioneer Works, Rachel Comey returned to the Red Hook, Brooklyn, spot for fall with an equally charming salon-style presentation in front of guests including Jake and Maggie Gyllenhaal, Peter Sarsgaard and Gaby Hoffmann. Comey continued to work her easy aesthetic, here with wildly cool toppers such as a mint-colored mohair “fur” coat over tattered twill separates in tonal hues as well as an oversize, sculpted gray jacket with matching pants. Floaty tops were trimmed with metallic fringe, while dresses in novelty prints came elegantly draped across the bodice and over the shoulder. Everything was paired with Comey’s covetable shoes, including hardy clog-heel boots that on this particular evening, would be perfect to combat the mounds of snow and slush outside.

BCBG: For their 25th- anniversary collection, Max and Lubov Azria delivered a lineup of the easy-to-wear FOR MORE REVIEWS dresses and separates on which AND IMAGES, SEE they’ve built their brand. WWD.com/ Fur played a key role. It was left wild on statement coats fashion-news. Rachel Comey BCBG David Hart Veronica and tamed on a cozy pullover Beard sweatshirt, all paired with retro-striped crepe dresses and body-skimming caftans. The designers focused on midi lengths, from paneled skirts to culottes, showing them with knee-high boots for a slight Seventies vibe — not to mention the nonchalant elegance the designers were going for.

David Hart: David Hart is one to watch as he continues to reinvent American classics with his infusion of chic nerdiness. For fall he was inspired by the cult classic “The Twilight Zone.” He channeled the static of old televisions for jacquard silk shantungs used for evening jackets and tuxedo blazers. The mostly tailored lineup also featured single- breasted two- and three-piece suits in throwback fabrics such as herringbone, tweed and mohair.

Veronica Beard: The Seventies in Beverly Hills served as the drawing point for Veronica Beard this season. “Our girl spends all of her time between the Beverly Hills hotel and the Troubadour, and these are the outfits she wears in her adventures,” said Veronica

WHALEN GIANNONI AND KRISTEN SOMODY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA Swanson Beard. “Always with a bohemian flair,” added Veronica Miele Beard.

PHOTOS BY And what does this free spirit wear from hot spot to hot spot? Everything from gaucho pants, jacquard sweatshirts and raccoon-collared jackets to printed chiffon maxidresses and sleek black jumpsuits. 8 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 De Blasio Committed to Fashion Industry {Continued from page one} eventually “got so good at it that they of magazines, but who make this industry Mayor Bill de Blasio, Diane von Furstenberg and Andrew Rosen. were able to open a shop that became a so great every single day — seamstresses, thriving dress business at the corner of patternmakers, embroiderers and many Fifth Avenue and 35th Street.” others. And that has been true for gen- Von Furstenberg said, “Oh great — erations, and for generations this indus- you’re one of us.” try has provided a pathway to the middle The mayor went on to personally con- class,” the mayor said. gratulate each of the seven grant recipi- Remarks like that left Diane von ents — Martin Greenﬁeld Clothiers, New Furstenberg, Steven Kolb, Theory found- York Embroidery Studio, High Production er Andrew Rosen, Ralph Lauren’s se- Inc., Werkstatt, Create-a-Marker Inc., In nior vice president of manufacturing Style USA and Vogue Too. (To further and sourcing Don Baum, Yeohlee Teng, local manufacturing, the CFDA recently Nanette Lepore and her husband Bob compiled an online directory of New York Savage smiling with encouragement. Von factories for its Web site.)

Furstenberg and Kolb have already lined New York Embroidery Studio, owned up a meeting with de Blasio for later this by Michelle Feinberg, provided the em- month to talk strategy. And Glen and de broidery for the Ralph Lauren uniforms Blasio’s wife, Chirlane McCray, “will deﬁ- that will be worn by American Olympic nitely be out and about” during New York athletes at the opening ceremony in Fashion Week, according to the mayor’s Sochi today. Feinberg said she will use front man. (The mayor’s schedule hasn’t some of the grant to buy laser-cutting been ironed out yet.) and embroidery machines that will While his predecessor, Michael increase the speed of production to Bloomberg, became a familiar face among nearly 10 times the current rate. “I’m designers by the end of his 12-year tenure, so pleased to be part of this opportunity de Blasio appears to have wasted no time to remind the world, while everybody in cozying up to the fashion crowd. On in- ’’ shows up to New York with a dream, auguration day, McCray made it known ANTONOV PAVEL we’re not just a city of dreamers. We’re that both she and their daughter, Chiara, a city of doers, makers, builders and de-

were wearing Nanette Lepore ensembles PHOTO BY signers,” said Feinberg. made in the Garment Center. Referring Earlier in the program, Rosen to a meeting and factory tour he had last town works and go behind the scenes of FMI chair Rosen and other partners stressed how he never would have year with Lepore and Savage, de Blasio some of the most interesting industries in have raised $1.3 million to date, includ- been able to start his business and be thanked the designer Thursday for their our town. This is some place that important ing $500,000 from Theory and its parent successful without New York City’s meeting of the minds about how to invest things are happening for the future of the company, Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., and strong manufacturing base. He also in local manufacturing. city. Some of the next leaders of the fashion $500,000 from Ralph Lauren. The total mentioned how manufacturing has al- Before Thursday’s Fashion industry, names that will become house- amount raised through the private sec- ways been a big part of his career, one Manufacturing Initiative press conference, hold words, are starting here,” he said. tor is expected to exceed $2 million in that is rooted in the business his grand- de Blasio chatted privately with the incu- Through the New York City Economic the program’s ﬁrst year. The ﬁrst round father started in 1910 selling dresses bator’s designers. “One of the most fasci- Development Corp., the City of New York of winners received grants ranging from for $2.99 and $3.99. “My belief is not to nating parts is being able to see how this has pledged $1 million to FMI. The CFDA, $45,000 to $150,000. save the Garment Center but invest in

We want to ensure that more of what is BEAUTY WITHOUT BORDERS designed in New York is also made in New York. I can think of no more powerful marketing tool than Made in New York. — NEW YORK CITY MAYOR BILL DE BLASIO

“These are the first but not the last the Garment Center, and continue to in- of the FMI grants that will be made,” de vest in manufacturing infrastructure,” Blasio said. “The goal of this initiative, he said. very straightforward, very important, Von Furstenberg also said she started is to strengthen the fashion industry in out in the factory. “It was actually in the the city. This is an imperative, strate- factory where I conceived it all,” she gic matter for the people of New York said. “My first advice to all designers City to support this sector. Let’s face it, is, stay close to the factory because fac- if there is any sector associated with tories are the ones who have the most the dream of starting small and becom- incentive for your business to succeed.” ing big, it’s the fashion industry, so we During a roundtable FMI discus- want to support the many small fashion sion earlier in the week, Rag & Bone businesses in this town. And we want to cofounder Marcus Wainwright,’’ who ensure that more of what is designed in served on the selection committee, said New York is also made in New York. I that 90 percent of what will be shown can think of no more powerful market- on the brand’s fall runway was made ing tool than Made in New York. in New York. Keeping as much produc- “Maybe Made in Brooklyn would tion in the U.S. as it can has helped Rag be even better,” kidded the Park Slope & Bone grow to the point where it now homeowner. employs 300 people in New York. Jokes aside, de Blasio said fashion Grant recipient Kin Ming Lam, is a priority for his administration in owner of the 30-year-old High that it is “one of the key areas where Production, said he learned from Rosen you can create new career pipelines years ago that locally made goods offer from our schools to highly skilled, something that international factories good-paying jobs.” He continued, “That just can’t: “a New York feel.” is the name of the game, too. [We can] Noting how new immigrants are THE INTERNATIONAL ISSUE use our public schools, private schools struggling today to make it in New York and the wonderful other educational City just as they did 100 years ago, de institutions in this town like FIT and Blasio said they don’t have connections, AD CLOSE: 2/28 create that roadway to consistent, high- but they have “the grit, the determina- IN PRINT & ONLINE: 3/21 skilled well-paying jobs.” tion, the ideas and the work ethic that Also featuring: He told the crowd how his mother’s epitomizes why this industry has be- Mass Market Dynamics | Dermatology News mother, his aunt and his great-grand- come so great and that epitomizes what mother came from a remote town in people of today are doing. My grand- southern Italy, Grassano, to New York mother’s efforts, I can honestly say, cre- City “determined to start their own ated ongoing opportunity for our fam- business.” They started by doing em- ily and is part of the reason I have the FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: [email protected], 212.630.3778 broidery from their own homes and honor of speaking before you today.” WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 9 WWD.COM Retailers Hunt for Exclusives at ECRM beauty NEW YORK — Mass-market retailers want value ty tools. With a directive from executives to ex- and products not offered at the chain next door. pand multicultural offerings, retailers also were That was the clarion message emerging from receptive to palettes from Milani. this week’s ECRM Efficient Program Planning There was also chatter in regard to more ex- A New Romance for Ralph Lauren Session dedicated to cosmetics, fragrances and clusives inspired by CVS’ Nuance and Wal-Mart’s silver cap and pink-tinted juice. bath at the Hyatt Regency in Denver. Flower. “Mass retailers have struggled for years to By JULIE NAUGHTON The scent will be carried It was a sentiment was reinforced by TPG curate exclusive or unique product assortments in about 4,000 department and Growth’s acquisition of a majority stake in E.l.f. because they have all had to carry the same big RALPH LAUREN’S venerable specialty store doors, includ- Cosmetics last week. E.l.f.’s value pricing strikes national brands,” said Ben Bennett, creative di- Romance women’s scent is get- ing Macy’s, Belk, Bon-Ton, a sweet spot with consumers, buyers said. It also rector and managing partner of Hatch Beauty, ting a sexy sister in the form of Boscov’s, Dillard’s, Sephora hit the mark with TPG. which has launched many Midnight Romance, a new fra- Inside J.C. Penney, Stage, Ulta, “TPG appreciated E.l.f.’s exclusives. “After seeing spe- grance that will launch in April Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor, growth trajectory and un- CRITICAL cialty and prestige beauty in the U.S. Sephora and Von Maur, begin- derstood the opportunity for retailers successfully launch “The idea of this fragrance is ning in April. The remainder of fresh and innovative offer- MASS trend and innovations, mass to bring women to a world of pas- the rollout — to 50 overseas mar- ings in the value channel” retailers are aggressively fo- sion and love,” said Guillaume de kets — will happen from April said Vennette Ho, managing BY FAYE BROOKMAN cusing on buying and building Lesquen, worldwide president through August. Prior to that, said director and head of beauty unique brands to attract new of Ralph Lauren Fragrances. Choueiri, the brand will offer a and personal care at Financo, consumers, especially those “While the original Romance presell campaign in 282 Dillard’s which advised on the sale of excited by compelling value [launched in 1998] is much light- doors and 300 Belk stores. E.l.f. “Through its creative offerings. For a small brand, er and more innocent, Midnight Customers will have the opportu- products and unique digital the opportunity to launch at a Romance expresses the sensu- nity to test the scent and receive a marketing strategy, E.l.f. is in- major mass retailer now has ality and edge of a woman and sample of Midnight Romance and fusing new excitement in the unquestionable appeal.” tells a different story, while still place their orders in those stores cosmetics aisle,” she added. While buyers looked for capitalizing on the strength of the between Feb. 15 and March 1. The After a softer than ex- unique items, they also had Romance franchise.” pected Christmas that “shell Glitter lip effect from Glimmer Body Art. to follow mandates from cor- Alexandre Choueiri, shocked” merchants, invento- porate offices to boost turns. president of International ries had to be cleaned out at drastic markdowns. Suppliers did their best to present programs Designer Collections for “The strategy needs to evolve with a keen to inspire sales. Markwins announced monthly L’Oréal USA, noted that focus on consumer sentiment,” suggested Shawn freestanding inserts behind Wet ‘n’ Wild. “That’s “while the two share a Haynes, vice president of sales for E.l.f. “It is es- three times what we’ve been doing,” said Eric name, we are treating sential that we provide the consumer with an en- Weeks, Markwins’ vice president of sales. Midnight Romance as a gaging retail experience that includes high-quality Retailers also had their eyes peeled for whole new fragrance.” products at extreme value price points.” We have brands they could tap for quick fill in when ma- And the fragrance is de- to look after the consumer so they feel they are jors can’t deliver. Last Christmas, several chains signed to appeal to a wide getting a good deal every day, not just at holiday.” did not get shipments on some key price points range of consumers. “We Retailers and industry observers added E.l.f. leaving them left to turn to smaller suppliers want to recruit all ages, The Midnight Romance ad. and other up-and-coming brands could shake who can turn on a dime and ship products. “We but we think Midnight consumers out of their slumber. benefited from that at Christmas,” said one ven- Romance will do especially well dot-coms of the other brick-and- “It is a good idea as E.l.f. is hot and retailers dor who asked to not be named. with women 25 years and older.” mortar retail partners will also are sick and tired of established makeup ven- At the other end of the spectrum, manufac- The floriental juice, concocted offer samples prior to the scent’s dors. It is properly priced for this economy and turers said retailers are tightening the screws by Firmenich’s Honorine Blanc on-counter date. I would imagine discounters and dollar stores on inventory to the point they fear out-of-stocks. and Alberto Morillas, has top Print and TV advertising was would like more merchandise and displays,” “They are looking for more week-to-week and notes of raspberry, Italian ber- shot by Bruce Weber and features said industry expert Allan Mottus. even day-to-day inventory,” said one source. gamot and juicy lychee; a heart Anna Selezneva, who is also one E.l.f. wasn’t the only newcomer at the show gar- “One problem is that when management tells a of peony, jasmine sambac and of the designer’s runway models. nering a buzz. First-time exhibitor Glimmer Body retailer to cut 10 percent of their [stockkeeping freesia, and a drydown of black The print campaign, which will Art had a bustling room with buyers looking to body units], they do it across the board as opposed to vanilla, iris absolute and ambrox. include scented strips, will break art to follow the success of nail art. In particular, the taking it from slower turners,” he added. “These notes represent a tension in May fashion, beauty and life- company showed lip stencils to create an ombré look The broad swath of retailers attending proved between pink and black, between style magazines, said Choueiri, or adorn lips with glitter. “Even though the [Denver] there is interest in the category beyond tradi- the masculine and the feminine,” and an online digital campaign Broncos lost, people are upbeat and leave our room tional mass doors. In addition to drug chains said de Lesquen. will also feature sampling. smiling,” said company cofounder Macky Samco. such as Walgreens, London and Bartell and gro- Eaux de toilette will be avail- Executives declined comment Honeybee Gardens displayed a range of glu- cery merchants including Wegmans and HEB, the able in three sizes — 30 ml. for on projected sales, but industry ten-free, natural products, while LeParfait of- roster sported Bed Bath & Beyond, TJX, Tuesday $52, 50 ml. for $74 and 100 ml. sources estimated Midnight fered apple stem cell antiaging items for mass. Morning and Glossy Box. “These are all retailers for $94. A 200-ml. moisturizer Romance could generate global QVS Global introduced a new collection of beau- getting more aggressive with beauty,” said Mottus. and a 200-ml. bath and shower first-year retail sales of at least gel will each retail for $41. A 10- $80 million. Sources estimated ml. rollerball will retail for $23. that the company will spend be- The bottle is the classic trans- tween $20 million and $25 mil- Givenchy Very Irrésistible’s Floral Turn parent Romance glass rectangle, lion on advertising and promo- tweaked with a shiny black and tion in the scent’s first year. Cédric Klapisch. For plained that to be “very ir- By JENNIFER WEIL L’Eau en rose, the spot resistible is to be kind and starts in the same way as loyal and very present, but PARIS — Parfums Givenchy is for the Ver y Irrésistible also to be like three steps Lauder Promotes Guillaume Jesel adding a new olfactory varia- scent, with Seyfried en- ahead of everybody. It’s THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS. INC. global corporate innovation and tion, L’Eau en rose, to its Ver y tering Café de Flore, but something that we can’t has promoted Guillaume Jesel to sustainability. She will remain an Irrésistible franchise, which ends with a twist. grasp; it’s not dangerous the newly created post of senior adviser to both Jesel and Haney. began in 2003. “It’s charming, it’s — but it’s on the brink.” vice president and general man- “Guillaume’s keen under- “Ver y Irrésistible is now a fresh, it’s vivacious — L’Eau en rose was ager of global corporate innova- standing of how innovation drives classic of the perfume business,” just like we wanted to launched exclusively in the tion, effective March 31. brand growth, complemented by said Thierry Maman, global be in L’Eau en rose,” Champs-Élysées Sephora Jesel, who currently serves his strong experience in market- president of Parfums Givenchy, said Maman. “We chose on Jan. 29. In March the as senior vice president, global ing and branding, makes him ide- part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Amanda because she is product will be sold in and North America marketing for ally suited for this new role,” said Louis Vuitton. He added that the embodying the values of full Sephora distribution MAC Cosmetics, will report to Carl Haney. “Additionally, his leader- scent ranks in the top 12 of wom- the line.” in France, plus the U.K., Haney, executive vice president, ship and close partnership with en’s prestige fragrances. Seyfried also has Germany, Russia, Belgium global research and development, Daria will ensure we continue “With L’Eau en rose, what links with Givenchy and the Netherlands. In corporate product innovation, to build on our company’s long- we wanted to do was to create a fashion. She not only at- April the fragrance is to package development, once he as- standing heritage of innovation frosted rose,” said Maman. “We tended its show but was be carried France-wide sumes his new role. During Jesel’s and help set the trends in prestige wanted to create a rose that tapped by the label’s and in the Ukraine, Spain transition he will work closely with beauty for many years to come.” would have a very airy burst, a couturier, Riccardo and Canada, followed by Daria Myers, senior vice president, — MOLLY PRIOR very vivacious femininity.” Tisci, to be in the Italy and the U.S. in May. International Flavors & brand’s campaign that In France, the eau de Fragrances master perfumer came out last summer. Givenchy’s toilette is priced at 51 WWD BEAUTY TEAM TAKING ON NYFW WITH GOOGLE GLASS: Beauty journalism Carlos Benaïm created the For her part, en rose. euros, or $69 at current has a new weapon. While covering the backstage action during New York juice, which includes notes of Seyfried called exchange, for the 30-ml Fashion Week, WWD’s team of reporters will be armed with Google Glass. rose, blackberry and musks. Givenchy “as classic as it gets. spray; 71 euros, or $96, for the The $1,500 device, which is now in testing mode and not yet sold at retail, The bottle takes the original But I mean, there’s always some- 50-ml. version, and 88 euros, or will allow the team to capture videos on the fly and create other interactive Ver y Irrésistible’s shape but thing very edgy, too. This is as $119, for the 75-ml. edition. content, including GIFs, from behind the scenes. “Through the use of has a pink-coral hue. good as it gets for me. I will be While Givenchy executives Glass and the Google+ Auto Awesome Photos feature, editors can have a Fronting the Ver y loyal to the brand forever.” would not discuss sales pro- unique way to capture their backstage experience this [NYFW],” said Bette Irrésistible brand is American Seyfried — who starred jections, industry sources es- Ann Schlossberg, Google+ Lifestyle partnerships manager. “WWD readers actress Amanda Seyfried, who in the recent “Lovelace” (of timate L’Eau en rose will gen- can truly see what the editors are seeing.” The Web page can be accessed appears in the print advertising which she said: “I’m really erate 25 million euros, or $33.9 for free through WWD.com, beginning at 12:01 a.m. today. — BELISA SILVA photographed by Glen Luchford proud of this, more than any- million, in first-year retail and in the TV campaign by thing I’ve ever done) — ex- sales worldwide. 10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 Jake and Maggie Gyllenhaal guests into the dining room for a four-course dinner, prepared by A Not-So-Fashion-Week Party chef Julia Ziegler-Haynes. Every 20 minutes, a band played, cueing a “I MEAN, I don’t call her [Rachel typically unconventional fashion sporting a bushy beard and low parade of lithe models weaving Comey] with my problems,” said show-cum-dinner party, held ponytail, perfunctorily shooed around the room in Comey’s fall Parker Posey, donning a poodle- for the second season at Dustin away even the most innocuous collection. The performers, Amber printed dress by the designer. Yellin’s Pioneer Works in Red photographers upon arriving. Martin and Nath Ann Carrera of Witch “But I’m a big fan.” The actress Hook, Brooklyn, on Wednesday. A wood-burning fire pit was Camp — a hybrid act of music was joined by an assemblage of Inside, away from the slush projected onto the back wall and performance art — kept it editors, artists and devotees of puddles, partygoers were (perhaps to evoke some sort of kooky for the audience (at one Comey’s brand of offbeat chic — transported into the sprawling, placebo effect). point, Martin held up a machete, Jake Gyllenhaal, who tagged along flower-filled exhibition space Comey’s team arranged a car then a stuffed white dove). with sister Maggie Gyllenhaal and where a uniformed waitstaff service for several of the guests, “Welcome to Witch Camp,” her husband Peter Sarsgaard; offered cocktails. Near the which made the outer-borough said Carrera. “And thank you Cindy Sherman, Arden Wohl, Garance entrance, a few female guests schlep far more bearable. “It ye for coming.…We just want to say Doré and a very pregnant Chiara changed out of snow boots was fun navigating the slush e ‘thank you’ for joining us, and Clemente — for the designer’s and into stilettos. Gyllenhaal, today,” said Posey, without a when you do decide to make haste whiff of irony. “You have to be from Witch Camp, you will find really careful before you step your broom sticks right where and be sure that you step solidly. massage. I was impressed. I was you parked them. Please be safe FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Yo u have to stomp. Everyone’s like, this is a spa. I’m ready to flying home, as it appears there is kind of struggling to stomp. I felt come back anytime.” a thunder squall brewing.…And WWD.com/eye. a little — I was getting annoyed Another guest star on enjoy your witch snack.” Then, with people today.” “Girls,” the artist Laurie Simmons the duo broke out into a cover of Gaby Hoffmann, back in the — and Lena Dunham’s mother — the British folk song “The Trees limelight with a memorable was also on hand. “It was really They Do Grow High.” cameo on Louis C.K.’s “Louie” fun to be so Satanic for a few Sherman, in awe of the last year and a new, recurring minutes,” she said, referring performance, was waiting in line role on season three of HBO’s to her part in a season two to meet and greet the musicians. “Girls,” sipped a drink near her episode playing, as she termed “I can’t wait for Rachel’s store to stepmother, Sherman. “I went it, the “evil art dealer. It was open because I’m just going to to the dentist for the first time really fun because I don’t relate order so much stuff,” she said. in three years today, which was to myself that way. Lena says I “This is the only show I’m going actually really fun,” she said. wasn’t taking direction well [on to this season, and it was the only “He gave me laughing gas and set], but I felt superobedient. I show I went to last season, too. I KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY Rachel Peter played really good music. He was very well-behaved.” just don’t like fashion shows. But Comey Sarsgaard put a cushion under my legs After cocktails, a soundtrack her show is not like most fashion — KRISTI GARCED PHOTOS BY and neck and gave me a neck of chirping birds welcomed shows.”

Mexico — in chunky white has struggled for the last added fashion director MEMO PAD lettering followed by “GO!,” has few years. Newsstand sales Margaret Mann from Glamour. a retro feel. have never been a huge Although it is still in While Guzmán has been factor at Traveler and have flux — CNT’s Web site will PILAR’S NEW TRAVELER: Pilar “playing with scale” on the been relatively flat for the get an overhaul this year Guzmán has been in the top job covers, she also has extended last five years when one — the magazine appears to at Condé Nast Traveler for just that idea to the inside of the includes digital replicas, be turning things around. over six months and in that time, book. Focusing on photos and totaling 30,613 in 2013, It has logged a 10.6 percent the former editor of Martha an easy-to-read, Pinterest/ according to the Alliance for increase in ads, amounting to Stewart Living and the defunct Tumblr-inspired layout, the Audited Media, compared a 21.91-page jump for the first- Cookie magazine has been in the magazine also has a more with 29,749 in 2008. Ad quarter of the year, according process of revamping the travel fashionable feeling with a new pages have declined for to data from Publishers title. She considers the March stable of photographers more three consecutive years. Information Bureau. issue the first real example of frequently found in the pages of According to Media Industry “The travel category her work — and there are a few Vogue — Inez van Lamsweerde and Newsletter, CNT’s ad pages is coming back,” cheered surprises, beginning with the Vinoodh Matadin shot the cover, for fell 10.4 percent, or just over publisher Bill Wackermann, who

cover. There is a “human,” as example, while Matthew Hranek, 103 pages, from 2010 to 2013. OF CONDE NAST TRAVELER declined to speculate on what Guzmán described it, rather than who is CNT creative director Last year, pages slid 3.65 went wrong at the magazine the typically exotic destination. Yolanda Edwards’ husband, percent to 886.54 pages before he landed back at CNT And not just any human, but a photographed stories inside. over 2012. in August. super-closeup of supermodel Storywise, CNT has reshaped Guzmán is determined to “There wasn’t something Christy Turlington Burns, wearing many of its front-of-book stories reverse that. When she was PHOTO COURTESY wrong, something changed,” he Ray-Ban aviators that reflect an to be one-pagers accompanied tapped by Condé Nast and Condé Nast Traveler’s March cover. said, referring to the economic Arizona-inspired terrain. by oversize photos. Although welcomed by artistic director downturn. To remedy his “It all started to look the there are still generally going Anna Wintour to succeed Klara brought on Edwards as creative woes, Wackermann, like many same across the category, and to be two larger, longer features Glowczewska in August, it was director to fulfill her aesthetic publishers, is turning more it’s not just us,” the editor in in the magazine, the bulk of her vision that earned her the vision. Jeffries Blackerby, digital heavily to the luxury segment. chief said of travel magazine the stories are now shorter, job. That vision has centered editor of Wintour’s Vogue, was But the question remains: covers. “I asked myself, ‘How more digestible pieces written on drawing in younger, affluent appointed deputy editor in Were CNT’s woes symptomatic do you get people to do a primarily by influencers in areas readers, as well as parents November, and another Martha of the ailing economy or of the double-take?’” such as fashion, food and travel looking to vacation with their alum, Carl Germann, joined as magazine? For what it’s worth, The cover, which contains rather than by the usual stable kids — a market she called managing editor a month ago. rival Travel & Leisure pulled a vertical list of eight of well-known travel writers. “untapped” by travel magazines. Following a period of instability out an 8.36 percent jump in ad destinations — the predictable The revamp is aimed at When she made her return due to defections in its fashion pages to 1,049.20 in 2013. mix of England, Hawaii and jump-starting a magazine that to Condé from Martha, Guzmán department, CNT recently — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 11 WWD.COM

snap photos of themselves trying on ‘It’s really happening now!’” Lagerfeld’s designs via touch screens in Further down the front row, FASHION SCOOPS the fitting rooms. — NINA JONES photographers snapped away as Zachary Quinto, Bryan Greenberg and Joe Jonas BILLABONG EYEING SALE OF E-COMMERCE bro’ed out for photographers. Staying SITES: Billabong International has hired close to her man, leggy model Blanda HERRERA’S HONOR: Carolina Herrera will “This is so fantastic,” an Guggenheim Securities to help with Eggenschwiler (recently visible as Jonas’ receive the 2014 Couture Council Award overwhelmed Rodbell said. “It was so a possible sale of its two e-commerce arm candy) told friends why she was for Artistry of Fashion at the annual gracious of Richard and Don to do this.” businesses, SurfStitch and Swell. The such a Richard Chai fan: “His clothes benefit luncheon, to take place at the The evening was hosted by Hudson’s Australian surfwear firm owns 100 are just so sexy.” Huh? A few seats away, David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Bay Co.’s governor and chief executive percent of Swell and has a 51 percent Quinto gushed about Chai, a personal Center Sept. 3, kicking off the spring officer Richard Baker and president Don stake in SurfStitch. Both businesses sell friend of the actor. “I just love his stuff,” 2015 collections in New York. The lunch Watros. Baker said the overflow turnout product from other brands. A sale of he said. “It has this real ease to it but is hosted by The Couture Council of didn’t surprise him. “Liz is a major the two would enable Billabong to focus it’s still unique.” Quinto visibly blushed The Museum at FIT and chaired by Julie player in the department store space, solely on its core Billabong business. moments later when beau Miles McMillan Macklowe and Elizabeth Musmanno. “I have so I’m not surprised by all the love,” he Shareholders last month approved came storming down the runway. great admiration for The Museum at the said. — JEAN E. PALMIERI of the refinancing deal for Billabong Perhaps, his take of Chai’s show skewed Fashion Institute of Technology — it’s provided by Oaktree Capital more towards sexy this go around? a vital link between fashion, culture LAGERFELD TO HIT LONDON: The Karl Management and Centerbridge Partners, — TAYLOR HARRIS and history,” Herrera said. “The work Lagerfeld brand is gearing up to open giving the financial firms a 40.8 percent of the museum gives our industry a its first store in the U.K. come March stake in the surf firm. FASHION AND FILM: Showgoers attempting stage to express cultural relevance in a 14, a 2,690-square-foot flagship at Billabong hired Neil Fiske, former to cross town after Creatures of the Wind historical context, engaging an audience president of Eddie hit more traffic than the anticipated beyond fashion, beyond New York.” The London Karl Lagerfeld store will be Bauer Holdings, as its show season congestion on Thursday Valerie Steele Ben Stiller , the museum’s director, the brand’s largest in Europe. chief executive officer afternoon thanks to a movie added, “Carolina Herrera exemplifies last year. being filmed on Central Park West. The the woman of style who is a very — VICKI M. YOUNG crew, there to shoot Stiller crossing the special kind of fashion designer. Like avenue for a scene of the upcoming Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, Carolina BFF’S: Phillip Lim and “Night at the Museum 3,” essentially Herrera became famous for creating Richard Chai have a well- shut down Central Park West between the kind of elegant, beautiful clothes documented bromance. 63rd and 64th Streets in increments, that she herself wears.” “How many years is this with cars only able to drive through Past recipients included Michael Kors, now? Five?” every other green light. Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, Alber Lim said FOR MORE The clan of usual suspects Elbaz and Karl Lagerfeld. from the front SCOOPS, SEE — Leandra Medine, Chelsea — MARC KARIMZADEH row of the Leyland, a newly purple- Richard Chai WWD.com. haired Kyleigh Kühn, Tennessee ALL FOR LIZ: It was pushing-room only Love show Thomas, Natalie Joos, et al. — at the Four Seasons restaurant in New on Thursday, turned up to the Creatures York Wednesday night as hundreds of a seat he’s held for 10 of the Wind show. Audrey Gelman, a well-wishers turned out to congratulate back-to-back seasons. freshly minted member of the front-row Liz Rodbell on her elevation to president (Chai also always clique, took it all in. “Huge,” she said of Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay. 145-147 Regent Street, where Hackett attends the 3.1 Phillip Lim show). The when asked if she was a big Shane Gabier Vendors, coworkers and editors jammed stood before it relocated farther along designer tore away from castings and and Christopher Peters fan. “They have into the Grill Room and shoved their the street late last year. styling at the studio to see his buddy’s this infectious creativity. There’s this way to the merchant, who greeted The space, the Lagerfeld brand’s collection. “I always view Richard’s show radical newness to their clothes that everyone from Leonard Lauder and Elie largest European store to date, will as like an alarm clock,” Lim said. “Like, always really excites me.” — T.H. Tahari to Josie Natori and Vera Wang. be decked out in the label’s signature decor, which incorporates mirrors, Richard Baker, Liz Rodbell walls of light and black and white and Don Watros. design details. The space will carry the Karl Lagerfeld’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, along with categories such as handbags, leather goods, footwear, eyewear and scarves. Technology will also play a part in the store, with iPad minis integrated into the display racks so shoppers can view the collection online while in the store, while iPads will act as a digital JIMI CELESTE guest book, on which shoppers can small space leave notes for Karl Lagerfeld himself.

PHOTO BY In addition, customers will be able to L’Uomo Vogue Goes Australian extended opening hours and in-store By LUISA ZARGANI events. Images from L’Uomo Vogue ar- chives will be exhibited in the windows L’UOMO VOGUE, in partnership with of the most important flagships. The Woolmark Co., will dedicate its That same night, the Museum of March edition to Australia, and de- Contemporary Art (MCA) will unveil an tails surrounding three days of events exhibition of L’Uomo Vogue photos from next month dedicated to fashion and its March edition — a collection of im- style will be revealed in Sydney today. ages of Australia’s most influential per- WWD first reported about the Australia- sonalities in fashion, design, art, music, Big themed issue last month. economy and public life. In conjunc- The public and private events will be tion, the museum will host a showcase held March 25 to 27 in Sydney and will dedicated to talents and wool: an instal- also mark the Woolmark brand’s 50th an- lation of fashion designs by the most niversary this year. “We are not looking promising emerging Australian design- Business at any self-celebratory event; this is not ers, selected by Sozzani with the sup- about feting our birthday. We would rath- port of Vogue Australia. Sozzani and The er celebrate wool and talk about wool,” Woolmark Co.’s managing director Stuart said The Woolmark Co.’s global strategy McCullough will inaugurate the event adviser Fabrizio Servente. “We want to with a cocktail party. WWD Marketplace is the premier destination highlight how wool is important, fun and On March 25, a farm visit will be orga- versatile in fashion.” nized for the international media to learn for the industry’s classified and career listings. Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of more about Australian wool production. L’Uomo Vogue and Vogue Italia and a During her stay, Sozzani will also U.N. Goodwill Ambassador, is expected meet the most promising students from to travel to Australia for the first time. Sydney’s University of Technology, as well On March 27, Sydney’s Castlereagh as a group of Australian fashion designers. Street shopping district and the sur- The editor is also part of the judg- 800.423.3314 rounding area will host a retail initia- ing panel for the 2014-15 International tive dubbed “World Wide Wool.” Leading Woolmark Prize competition, the win- fashion stores, together with depart- ner of which is to be revealed at Milan’s wwd.com/marketplace ment store David Jones, will celebrate a Museo Della Triennale on Feb. 21 during “shopping night” dedicated to wool, with the city’s fashion week. Mac Cosmetics mac007116b_WWD_Back_Cover_PG1 Proof 3

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