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Annual Events and Traditions Spring: from the New Year to Cherry Blossoms

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Annual Events and Traditions Spring: from the New Year to Cherry Blossoms Vol. 31 No. 1 April 2017 Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food THE JAPANESE TABLE 4 SPECIAL REPORT: Japanese Cuisine Around the World Annual Events Shinya Koike — and Traditions 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: Spring: From the New Year to Sushi Cocktail Chirashi-zushi Cherry Blossoms — by Yoichiro Nakamura 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: Japan’s annual cycle of seasonal observances revolves around Photo and Essay Contests: “seasoning your life” the ancient lunar calendar. In this new feature series, Food Forum highlights the very special foods that defi ne these celebrations. Our fi rst installment opens with the symbolism and traditions of the New Year and of new beginnings. Annual Events and Traditions Spring: From the New Year to Cherry Blossoms From left: During Hinamatsuri, traditional foods include hamaguri clam soup and hishi-mochi diamond-shaped mochi cakes in colored layers. The rhythms of life in Japan are of the New Year. Mochi cakes of long “whiskers” and curved bodies neatly matched to the changes of steamed glutinous rice, pounded evoking the bent back of an elderly its four seasons. The annual harvest in a mortar, are essential, placed person. Yellowtail is a fi sh whose of rice, staple of the Japanese diet on altars along with a variety of Japanese name changes along for centuries, is realized through decorations as offerings to express with the stages of its life cycle, a the steady cycle of the seasons, and gratitude to the deities. Mochi is concept suggestive of successful Japanese traditionally regard this a popular food in Asia; in Japan, advancement in life. Chestnuts abundance of nature as a blessing its traditionally round shape is are referred to as kachi-guri, imparted by their ancestors. said to represent the human heart, “victory in competition”; herring Traditional belief holds that within which the spirit dwells. In roe connote prosperity for one’s ancestral spirits appear in the world the past, small round mochi cakes descendants; tazukuri are small in the form of deities, bringing were presented to children by their dried fi sh with sesame seeds in a blessings and happiness; thus an parents as otoshidama to convey sweet soy sauce-based seasoning, abundant harvest is considered a this sensibility; these days, cash is whose name implies “industrious boon for their descendants. From given. Like Christmas presents from cultivation of fi elds.” Osechi ryori ancient times, people have prepared Santa, otoshidama have long been also includes kamaboko steamed seasonal foods as offerings to those symbolic of happiness received from fi sh cake in the pink and white deities thought to visit this world the gods. Traditionally served on colors associated with felicitous and mingle among the living. The New Year’s day is zoni soup, which occasions; rolled kombu, whose living partake of these foods with contains mochi and vegetables. name evokes the word yorokobu the spirits, then usher their spiritual Interestingly, the shapes of mochi in for “happiness”; and festive yellow- visitors back to their own realm. zoni differ by region: square cakes and-white layered nishiki-tamago Traditional foods in Japan are thus are preferred in eastern Japan, and egg cakes. closely connected with customs round ones are more popular in the When the traditional New related to belief in the divine. western part of the country. Year’s period ends, mochi cakes Just as indispensable as New are removed from the display of Festive New Year’s Foods Year’s mochi are the festive At the end of every year, foods known as osechi ryori. preparations begin with cleaning Traditionally, these are the most and tidying to welcome the deity extravagant foods eaten during the of the New Year. Kadomatsu, year, served in beautifully crafted beautifully prepared festoons of lacquered boxes called jubako. pine and bamboo, are arrayed at The foods themselves are made entrances to homes and offi ces to using ingredients whose names serve as abodes for heavenly spirits. or appearance are auspicious. It is customary to cook with drawn Examples include shrimp, water to signify renewal at the start symbolic of long life with their Setsubun roasted soybeans and oni demon mask 2 Below: New Year’s kadomatsu; right: three-layer boxes and assorted osechi ryori including chestnuts, tazukuri, kamaboko and rolled kombu. offerings and consumed in a sweet dolls dressed in brocade robes as event with hanami “fl ower- soup made with adzuki beans worn by the emperor’s court of viewing” parties that bring together and reheated mochi. When the ancient Japan. Offerings made family, friends and colleagues to kadomatsu and other decorations to the dolls include shirozake, a enjoy food and drink beneath cherry are taken down, it is customary to sweet cloudy sake made of slightly blossoms in full bloom. Cherry trees take them to a local shrine where fermented rice, along wit h hishi- hold special meaning for Japanese, they are given a ceremonial burning. mochi, diamond-shaped mochi as they are believed to serve as a The visiting deities then rise with cakes in red, white and green layers. dwelling for the gods who promise the smoke to return to their world. The green layer is made by adding an abundant autumn harvest. crushed yomogi mugwort leaves For Japanese, the season from Rites of Spring to mochi. Mugwort has medicinal New Year’s to the fl owering of the Setsubun is held on the day before effects and its pungent smell was cherry blossoms is the important the beginning of spring, which believed to drive away harm, start, or “springboard,” if you generally falls in early February. making it a suitable ingredient in will, for the entire year—a time of Certain rituals are observed to foods to welcome a new season. celebration and prayers for peace drive away ill fortune and summon Another traditional Hinamatsuri and an abundant harvest, and for luck. Soybeans are roasted, and one dish is chirashi-zushi (see p.7). the happiness of each and every one eats just as many beans as their This “scattered” sushi is made of us. age; the beans are also taken in by spreading out sushi rice in a Translated by Lynne E. Riggs hot tea on auspicious occasions. large bowl and topping it with The highlight of Setsubun involves various tasty and colorful morsels, opening windows and doors and including thin strips of omelet, cover tossing out the soybeans while sashimi, seasoned slices of shiitake In springtime, all of Japan enjoys the spirit of renewal chanting, “Out with bad luck, in and strips of dried nori seaweed. promised in the blossoming of the cherry trees. In traditional hanami fl ower-viewing parties, friends, with good luck!” One person dons On Hinamatsuri it is also customary colleagues and family gather beneath the trees to share an oni demon mask, while others to eat shellfi sh such as hamaguri food together. toss the beans to symbolically drive clams in clear soup. Sometimes Author’s profile it away and invite good fortune. live clams are given as offerings to Yoichiro Nakamura, Ph.D.; born in 1943. A specialist in historical and folklore resources, Prof. Nakamura Traditional spring rites in Europe the dolls. was formerly professor at Shizuoka Sangyo involve similar demon masks, University (SSU), and is currently guest researcher at refl ecting the hope for renewal—a Cherry Blossom Viewing the SSU Institute of Research and Development. His major works include: Iruka to nihonjin (“Dolphins and feeling shared around the world. The fi rst of April marks the Japanese,” 2017); Myanmar: Ima, ichiban shiritai beginning of both the business and kuni (“Myanmar: the country we’re most curious Girls’ Day the academic year in Japan, and at about,” 2013); Bancha to shomin kissashi (“Bancha To pray for the health of girls, the about this time, cherry trees begin tea and the history of popular tea drinking,” 2015); and Washoku bunka booklet 2: nenchu gyoji to Hinamatsuri Doll Festival is held to bloom across the country. People shikitari (“Washoku culture booklet, no. 2: annual on March 3. Families display special love to celebrate this springtime events and traditions,” 2016). FOOD FORUM April 2017 3 SPECIAL REPORT from Brazil Japanese Cuisine São Paulo Around the World The annual Food Forum Special Report presents people who are introducing the pleasures of Japanese cuisine in countries around the world. This year we visit chef and restaurant owner Shinya Koike in São Paulo, Brazil. I fi rst moved to Brazil in 1994 at the sales-by-weight restaurants were invitation of a friend who planned hugely popular. to open a Japanese restaurant in So when I opened Syutei A1, São Paulo, but eventually ended up conditions for any restaurant working at a large-scale Japanese serving authentic Japanese restaurant, followed by a stint as cuisine were very favorable. The Shinya Koike a sous-chef. In 2004, I opened my population, particularly in São Born 1957, Tokyo. Relocated to Brazil in own place called Syutei A1. We Paulo, includes many nikkei 1994, where he founded five Japanese had only 13 seats, menus were interested in Japan, its traditions— restaurants. Since 2007, Chef Koike has chaired the Japanese Food Promotion handwritten daily, and we served a and its cuisine. There is a huge Committee of the Brazilian Society of variety of Japanese dishes including consumer segment that knows and Japanese Culture and Social Assistance. hijiki-no-nimono simmered hijiki loves Japanese food. Furthermore, He actively promotes washoku through sea vegetable, kinpira-gobo braised thanks to the enormous efforts of lectures and demonstrations, including burdock root and carrot, grilled fi sh immigrant farmers from Japan who during the Japanese Prime Minister’s visit in 2014.
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