Vol. 31 No. 1 April 2017

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

THE JAPANESE TABLE 4 SPECIAL REPORT: Around the World Annual Events Shinya Koike — and Traditions 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: Spring: From the New Year to Cocktail Chirashi-zushi Cherry Blossoms — by Yoichiro Nakamura 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: Japan’s annual cycle of seasonal observances revolves around Photo and Essay Contests: “seasoning your life” the ancient lunar calendar. In this new feature series, Food Forum highlights the very special foods that defi ne these celebrations. Our fi rst installment opens with the symbolism and traditions of the New Year and of new beginnings. Annual Events and Traditions Spring: From the New Year to Cherry Blossoms

From left: During Hinamatsuri, traditional foods include hamaguri clam soup and hishi- diamond-shaped mochi cakes in colored layers.

The rhythms of life in Japan are of the New Year. Mochi cakes of long “whiskers” and curved bodies neatly matched to the changes of steamed glutinous rice, pounded evoking the bent back of an elderly its four seasons. The annual harvest in a mortar, are essential, placed person. Yellowtail is a fi sh whose of rice, staple of the Japanese diet on altars along with a variety of Japanese name changes along for centuries, is realized through decorations as offerings to express with the stages of its life cycle, a the steady cycle of the seasons, and gratitude to the deities. Mochi is concept suggestive of successful Japanese traditionally regard this a popular food in Asia; in Japan, advancement in life. Chestnuts abundance of nature as a blessing its traditionally round shape is are referred to as kachi-guri, imparted by their ancestors. said to represent the human heart, “victory in competition”; herring Traditional belief holds that within which the spirit dwells. In roe connote prosperity for one’s ancestral spirits appear in the world the past, small round mochi cakes descendants; tazukuri are small in the form of deities, bringing were presented to children by their dried fi sh with sesame seeds in a blessings and happiness; thus an parents as otoshidama to convey sweet soy sauce-based seasoning, abundant harvest is considered a this sensibility; these days, cash is whose name implies “industrious boon for their descendants. From given. Like Christmas presents from cultivation of fi elds.” Osechi ryori ancient times, people have prepared Santa, otoshidama have long been also includes kamaboko steamed seasonal foods as offerings to those symbolic of happiness received from fi sh cake in the pink and white deities thought to visit this world the gods. Traditionally served on colors associated with felicitous and mingle among the living. The New Year’s day is zoni soup, which occasions; rolled kombu, whose living partake of these foods with contains mochi and vegetables. name evokes the word yorokobu the spirits, then usher their spiritual Interestingly, the shapes of mochi in for “happiness”; and festive yellow- visitors back to their own realm. zoni differ by region: square cakes and-white layered nishiki-tamago Traditional foods in Japan are thus are preferred in eastern Japan, and egg cakes. closely connected with customs round ones are more popular in the When the traditional New related to belief in the divine. western part of the country. Year’s period ends, mochi cakes Just as indispensable as New are removed from the display of Festive New Year’s Foods Year’s mochi are the festive At the end of every year, foods known as osechi ryori. preparations begin with cleaning Traditionally, these are the most and tidying to welcome the deity extravagant foods eaten during the of the New Year. Kadomatsu, year, served in beautifully crafted beautifully prepared festoons of lacquered boxes called jubako. pine and bamboo, are arrayed at The foods themselves are made entrances to homes and offi ces to using ingredients whose names serve as abodes for heavenly spirits. or appearance are auspicious. It is customary to cook with drawn Examples include shrimp, water to signify renewal at the start symbolic of long life with their Setsubun roasted soybeans and oni demon mask

2 Below: New Year’s kadomatsu; right: three-layer boxes and assorted osechi ryori including chestnuts, tazukuri, kamaboko and rolled kombu.

offerings and consumed in a sweet dolls dressed in brocade robes as event with hanami “fl ower- soup made with adzuki beans worn by the emperor’s court of viewing” parties that bring together and reheated mochi. When the ancient Japan. Offerings made family, friends and colleagues to kadomatsu and other decorations to the dolls include shirozake, a enjoy food and drink beneath cherry are taken down, it is customary to sweet cloudy sake made of slightly blossoms in full bloom. Cherry trees take them to a local shrine where fermented rice, along with hishi- hold special meaning for Japanese, they are given a ceremonial burning. mochi, diamond-shaped mochi as they are believed to serve as a The visiting deities then rise with cakes in red, white and green layers. dwelling for the gods who promise the smoke to return to their world. The green layer is made by adding an abundant autumn harvest. crushed yomogi mugwort leaves For Japanese, the season from Rites of Spring to mochi. Mugwort has medicinal New Year’s to the fl owering of the Setsubun is held on the day before effects and its pungent smell was cherry blossoms is the important the beginning of spring, which believed to drive away harm, start, or “springboard,” if you generally falls in early February. making it a suitable ingredient in will, for the entire year—a time of Certain rituals are observed to foods to welcome a new season. celebration and prayers for peace drive away ill fortune and summon Another traditional Hinamatsuri and an abundant harvest, and for luck. Soybeans are roasted, and one dish is chirashi-zushi (see p.7). the happiness of each and every one eats just as many beans as their This “scattered” sushi is made of us. age; the beans are also taken in by spreading out sushi rice in a Translated by Lynne E. Riggs hot tea on auspicious occasions. large bowl and topping it with The highlight of Setsubun involves various tasty and colorful morsels, opening windows and doors and including thin strips of omelet, cover tossing out the soybeans while sashimi, seasoned slices of shiitake In springtime, all of Japan enjoys the spirit of renewal chanting, “Out with bad luck, in and strips of dried nori seaweed. promised in the blossoming of the cherry trees. In traditional hanami fl ower-viewing parties, friends, with good luck!” One person dons On Hinamatsuri it is also customary colleagues and family gather beneath the trees to share an oni demon mask, while others to eat shellfi sh such as hamaguri food together. toss the beans to symbolically drive clams in clear soup. Sometimes Author’s profile it away and invite good fortune. live clams are given as offerings to Yoichiro Nakamura, Ph.D.; born in 1943. A specialist in historical and folklore resources, Prof. Nakamura Traditional spring rites in Europe the dolls. was formerly professor at Shizuoka Sangyo involve similar demon masks, University (SSU), and is currently guest researcher at refl ecting the hope for renewal—a Viewing the SSU Institute of Research and Development. His major works include: Iruka to nihonjin (“Dolphins and feeling shared around the world. The fi rst of April marks the Japanese,” 2017); Myanmar: Ima, ichiban shiritai beginning of both the business and kuni (“Myanmar: the country we’re most curious Girls’ Day the academic year in Japan, and at about,” 2013); Bancha to shomin kissashi (“Bancha To pray for the health of girls, the about this time, cherry trees begin tea and the history of popular tea drinking,” 2015); and Washoku bunka booklet 2: nenchu gyoji to Hinamatsuri Doll Festival is held to bloom across the country. People shikitari (“Washoku culture booklet, no. 2: annual on March 3. Families display special love to celebrate this springtime events and traditions,” 2016).

FOOD FORUM April 2017 3 SPECIAL REPORT from Brazil Japanese Cuisine São Paulo Around the World

The annual Food Forum Special Report presents people who are introducing the pleasures of Japanese cuisine in countries around the world. This year we visit chef and restaurant owner Shinya Koike in São Paulo, Brazil.

I fi rst moved to Brazil in 1994 at the sales-by-weight restaurants were invitation of a friend who planned hugely popular. to open a Japanese restaurant in So when I opened Syutei A1, São Paulo, but eventually ended up conditions for any restaurant working at a large-scale Japanese serving authentic Japanese restaurant, followed by a stint as cuisine were very favorable. The Shinya Koike a sous-chef. In 2004, I opened my population, particularly in São Born 1957, Tokyo. Relocated to Brazil in own place called Syutei A1. We Paulo, includes many nikkei 1994, where he founded five Japanese had only 13 seats, menus were interested in Japan, its traditions— restaurants. Since 2007, Chef Koike has chaired the Japanese Food Promotion handwritten daily, and we served a and its cuisine. There is a huge Committee of the Brazilian Society of variety of Japanese dishes including consumer segment that knows and Japanese Culture and Social Assistance. hijiki-no-nimono simmered hijiki loves Japanese food. Furthermore, He actively promotes washoku through sea vegetable, kinpira-gobo braised thanks to the enormous efforts of lectures and demonstrations, including burdock root and carrot, grilled fi sh immigrant farmers from Japan who during the Japanese Prime Minister’s visit in 2014. He helped establish Brazil’s first Sushi and tempura. established themselves in Brazil Chef Championship, certified by the in the early twentieth century, Federation of Japan Sushi Industry Health Japanese Traditions in Brazil there are suburban farms providing Associations and the World Sushi Skills To give some background, there a plentiful supply of the Japanese Institute. In 2016, Chef Koike received the were only a handful of Japanese vegetables needed in Japanese Minister’s Award for Overseas Promotion of restaurants in São Paulo in the cuisine, such as cucumber, Japanese Food from the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. early 1990s, and these targeted eggplant, daikon, yam, yuzu citrus mostly Japanese expats and second- and ginkgo nuts. I am quite sure generation, or nikkei, Japanese- there is no other country outside Brazilians. When Brazilian-operated Japan where such abundant, high Japanese restaurants fi rst appeared quality produce can be obtained so around 1995 in upmarket São Paulo easily. Because of these particular neighborhoods, this marked the circumstances, Syutei A1 was beginning of the Japanese food boom, blessed from the beginning. Its where all-you-can-eat Japanese and success led to my opening the 46-

Sakagura A1 Rua Jerônimo da Veiga, 74-Itaim Bibi, São Paulo, Brazil Tel: +55 (11) 3078 3883 www.sakaguraa1.com.br Restaurant SHIN KOIKE Av. das Américas, 8585-Vogue Square, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Tel: +55 (21) 3030 9092 Chef Koike demonstrates Japanese beef steaming Sakagura A1 menu includes soba rolls with www.shinkoike.com.br technique at a Japan-Brazil dinner reception. sliced yam and fl avored shiso.

4 Sakagura A1 offers a variety of dishes including sashimi, sushi and tempura.

seat Restaurant Aizomê in 2007, shipments of Japanese sake started Sharing Washoku which serves a kaiseki menu that to arrive here, and the availability The environment for washoku changes daily. In 2008 and 2009, of imported unpasteurized sake here continues to be favorable, and Aizomê was named best Japanese triggered a boom; the sake market awareness continues to grow. Today restaurant in São Paulo. took off and sake sommeliers there are an estimated 700-800 thrived. Consumers slowly shifted Japanese restaurants in this city, and Authentic Flavors from locally made seasonings this trend is spreading to other parts The Brazilian economy stabilized and sake to genuine Japan-made of the country, generating more over the past decade, and it became products and so, refl ecting their demand for quality ingredients, easier to obtain ingredients from demand for higher quality taste, techniques and information about Japan; by the early 2000s, we the authenticity of Japanese Japan and its culture. My long- could source kombu, katsuobushi restaurants improved. time plans to expand to Rio de (dried bonito), instant foods and As the clientele of São Paulo’s Janeiro were realized last year seasonings. Pre-prepared seafood restaurant market gradually when I opened Restaurant SHIN products and gourmet items matured, in 2012, I opened the KOIKE and Izakaya ROMAN. appeared on the market, and kurage 130-seat restaurant Sakagura A1, The two share the same kitchen jellyfi sh, iidako octopus, shark fi n a more extensive version of my and combine washoku dining and and shirauo icefi sh were served as original shops. Its concept is to bar in a completely new style, sushi in high quality shops and were provide a spectrum of washoku unprecedented in Rio. I designed popular with Brazilian consumers. for a broader clientele of all ages, this establishment to function as a When I fi rst arrived in Brazil, a including Japanese, nikkei and non- center for my washoku education few small shops sold Asian and Japanese-Brazilians. Our menu and training activities in that city. Japanese foods and ingredients; but concept focuses on fl avors created I continue to pursue direct, by 2000, there were supermarkets with genuine Japanese seasonings: person-to-person exchange selling mainly Japanese foods. The Brazilian soy sauce is sweet, and about food-related matters like rush from 2000-2012 to open new simmered fi sh, for example, can be ingredients, cooking tools and Japanese restaurants increased the made only with true Japanese soy tableware. I am eager to see the number of Japanese-food fans. At the sauce. Our local staff also follow number of washoku fans grow same time, refrigerated container traditional Japanese preparation as a result of increased opportunities methods, like making dashi using to enjoy the authentic cuisine. kombu and bonito. It is my goal I want to do all I can to transmit to change the false Brazilian the proper information and skills conception that Japanese food is to food industry professionals to just sushi and sashimi. I hope to ensure that safe, reliable Japanese familiarize them with the true food is served. Today, washoku is depth and variety of this cuisine. still considered a “foreign culture” I believe that by enhancing our in Brazil, but I hope to see this food diners’ experience through fi ne culture take fi rm root here. Japanese food, we spread greater I believe that authentic culture understanding of washoku truly endures, so I will continue my Arranging steamed abalone and crab with okura- traditional Japanese cuisine here endeavors to pass on and share the tororo garnish at Sakagura A1 in Brazil. enjoyment of washoku.

FOOD FORUM April 2017 5 This recipe transforms sushi into individual servings that are perfect as small appetizers. The remaining sushi rice may SUSHI COCKTAIL be enjoyed as salad-style sushi by topping with a variety of greens, other fi sh and/or meat, served on a platter.

1 Cook rice. Mix hot cooked rice with 4 T sushi vinegar and then cool. Peel tomatoes, remove seeds and drain off the juice. Chop roughly, then place in a small 2pan with the granulated sugar and light color soy sauce. Stir over medium-low heat Dried nori until its consistency is similar to marinara tomato sauce. Allow to cool.

Appetizer serves 12 Mix bay shrimp with lemon juice. Set aside. 113 kcal Protein 9.8 g Fat 5.4 g (per serving) 3

• 400 ml / 1 2/3 C japonica rice* In a bowl, mix the mayonnaise, wasabi paste and soy sauce. • 450 ml / 2 C water 4 • 1 T sake Cut avocado in half, remove pit and skin. Cut each half into four lengthwise slices and Sushi vinegar** • 100 ml / 3.5 oz. rice vinegar 5then into small squares, each 1 cm / ½ in. Gently coat completely with the blended • 1 ½ T granulated sugar mayo-wasabi-soy sauce. • 1/2 t salt To prevent the sushi rice from sticking to the cocktail glasses, mix 2 T sushi vinegar Tomato-soy sauce • 2 tomatoes, total 260 g / 9 oz. 6and 4 T water, and add 1/2 t vinegar-water to the bottom of each glass. Rotate to coat • 1 t granulated sugar well; discard excess. • 1 t Kikkoman Light Color Soy Sauce To serve, spoon 2 T sushi rice into each cocktail glass.*** Sprinkle dried nori seaweed • 180 g / 6 oz. cooked bay shrimp strips onto the rice, then add avocado mixture and cocktail shrimp, topped fi nally with • Lemon juice 7 • 4 T mayonnaise a drizzle of tomato-soy sauce. • 1 t wasabi paste, or more if preferred • 2 t Kikkoman Soy Sauce * The recipe uses only a portion of this rice; however, to cook properly, this quantity of rice is necessary. • 1 avocado ** The sushi vinegar in this recipe is lighter and milder than usual sushi vinegar. *** Adjust amount of rice according to size of serving ware. • Dried nori seaweed for optional garnish, strips or shredded Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto

1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 Traditionally, chirashi-zushi is served during celebratory occasions, but it is most closely associated with the colorful CHIRASHI-ZUSHI Hinamatsuri Doll Festival in March. The dish is just as enjoyable without the fi sh.

1Wash rice and drain; allow to rest for 30 minutes. Cook with water, sake and kombu. To soften the shiitake, cover completely with lukewarm water and allow the 2mushrooms to soak for 20 minutes. Drain while reserving the water; remove stems and cut into thin slices. Lotus root Mix sushi vinegar into the hot cooked rice and fan to cool. Serves 4-5 3 413 kcal Protein 11.1 g Fat 6.2 g (per person) Parboil abura-age briefl y and drain. Cut in half lengthwise then into thin strips. Cut 4carrot into thin slices. In a pan, add the abura-age, carrot, shiitake and 180 ml / ¾ C of • 400 ml / 1 2/3 C japonica rice the reserved shiitake water. Add simmering seasoning and bring to a boil, then simmer 5 • 450 ml / 2 C water • 1 T sake minutes over medium heat. Remove from heat, allow to cool and gently drain. • 5 cm- / 2 in.-square kombu • 3 dried shiitake mushrooms Beat eggs with granulated sugar and a pinch of salt. Sushi vinegar 5 • 4 T rice vinegar • 1 ½ T granulated sugar In a small, lightly oiled non-stick frying pan, pour in just enough egg to thinly coat the • 1 t salt 6bottom of the pan. Cook over low heat and fl ip when the surface of the egg sets; remove • 2 sheets abura-age deep-fried tofu from pan and cut into thin strips. Repeat process until all the raw egg is used. • Carrot, 4 cm / 1.5 in. Simmering seasoning Peel lotus root, cut into thin slices and place in a saucepan with just enough water to • 1 T sake • 1 T granulated sugar 7cover, and a few drops of vinegar. Boil only briefl y; drain, then place in lotus marinade for • 1 ½ T Kikkoman Soy Sauce at least 30 minutes. • 2 eggs • 2 t granulated sugar Trim snow peas, parboil in lightly salted water. Drain and julienne. Roll up smoked • Salt salmon slices or cut into bite-size pieces. • Vegetable oil 8 • Lotus root, 80 g / 3 oz. Add the simmered abura-age, shiitake and carrot to the sushi rice and fold in gently. Lotus marinade • 1 ½ T rice vinegar 9 Spoon into a serving dish and top with the egg, lotus, snow peas, smoked salmon and • 1 ½ T dashi stock nori strips. • 1 T granulated sugar • 1/3 t salt * Shrimp may also be added for extra color and flavor. • 10 snow peas • Salt Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation • 8-10 slices of smoked salmon* • Dried nori seaweed strips for garnish FOOD FORUM April 2017 7 Photo and Essay Contests: “seasoning your life”

A selection of prize-winning photos

The corporate slogan of Kikkoman Corporation, Yomiuri Shimbun and Chuokoron-Shinsha, Inc. Over “seasoning your life,” contains the core message that 3,000 applicants of all ages from across Japan have sent in Kikkoman “helps you savor the joys of life.” It suggests entries over the years, writing about delicious memories, that, as Kikkoman seasons and enriches your food, it also including: box lunches enjoyed during school days brings fulfi llment to life as a whole. This is important that were prepared by a mother; a wife’s memory of the in our fast-paced modern society. However, in a time taste of the fi rst pickles her husband ever made while she of constant change, some things remain the same: was hospitalized; and the unforgettable taste of home- tasty encounters and the enjoyment and fun that come cooked meals. from sitting down to a meal with family and friends all Kikkoman also holds related contests internally combine to create delicious memories. within its worldwide Group, which offer an opportunity Kikkoman holds an annual photo contest for the for every Kikkoman Group employee to reaffi rm the general public in Japan, using its corporate slogan as a corporate slogan and Kikkoman’s Promise to share the theme to capture delicious memories. Fiscal year 2016 Kikkoman philosophy. Every year, more members share was the ninth time for the photo contest to be held, and these values, and the company receives an increasing nearly 1,000 applications were received. These photos number of entries, both from Japan and its overseas refl ected a variety of delicious memories, and depicted Group companies. subjects such as meals at grandparents’ homes during Kikkoman believes that through these photo and summer vacation, Christmas and birthday events, and essay contests, people can share food-related experiences the joys of harvesting vegetables and fruit. and recall their own delicious memories. The company In addition, this marked the eighth year for the hopes to continue to encourage memorable—and tasty— annual Kikkoman-supported essay contest held by the moments at dining tables around the world.

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Eda Sterner Kaneko / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Yoichiro Nakamura / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: PIXTA (p. 1, p. 2 top left and top right, p. 3 left) / amanaimages (p. 2 bottom, p. 3 center and right) / Shinya Koike (pp. 4-5) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (pp. 6-7) / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2017 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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