Route of Washington Irving TRADITIONS

This Route is one of the vital FOOD arteries of The Routes of El legado he local products found along this route are the basis for a tasty gastronomy. Bread such as that from Alcalá de andalusí: it links the lands of Huelva, TGuadaíra and Antequera, with molletes (sort of soft rolls), Seville, Málaga and Granada. This are very famous. Extra virgin olive oil can be savoured all along itinerary relives the voyages made the route, as well as high quality natural products such as asparagus from Villarrasa and Huétor-Tájar, and a great variety by the Romantic American writer of vegetables that give their flavour to different stews and and diplomat, attracted by the casseroles, gazpachos, porras (tomato creamy soup) and salads. exoticism and exuberance of the “Arab” vestiges of The cured meats, meat dishes have great quality, as well as fish Andalusia and by the admiration he felt for the figure of and seafood from Palos de la Frontera (white prawns, king prawns and langoustines) and Iberian ham are of great quality. Christopher Columbus and his Discovery of America. In Moguer and Palos de la Frontera, strawberries and other red While living in Seville, Irving started his journey to the fruits such as raspberries, blackberries and blueberries are

Columbian sites of Moguer, Palos de la Frontera and La grown and exported all

Rábida in order to investigate the character of over Europe. We must Granada and Seville to (Huelva) Rábida La From

not forget to mention the Christopher Columbus. This is how his close relationship sweets, some made by Irving with Huelva began in 1928. A year later he would cloistered nuns: fried undertake his journey from Seville to Granada, a roscos, buñuelos, empanadillas, rosas de miel, Washington suggestive route that meant that from the beginning of

th torrijas with wine and the 19 century the Romantic image of Andalusia was to honey, and the tasty be projected in Europe, attracting a multitude of artists, pestiños (fritters). of Route writers, curious onlookers and all kinds of travellers. This route invites the traveller to live experiences and to enjoy HANDICRAFTS a mild climate and incomparable cities. The voyager will rom La Rábida to Granada there are countless workshops,

enjoy the welcoming hospitality and the open character where some of the most representative Andalusian Europe of Council the of Route Cultural of the people. The landscape offers spectacular ITINERARY AND DISTANCES WASHINGTON IRVING Fhandicrafts are manufactured. Pottery and metalwork are andalusí legado El

Archaeological outstanding, as well as wood and leather crafts applied in

Monuments Museum marshlands and beautiful pine forests, extensive he Route of Washington Irving follows an itinerary he leading player in this route Nature Site saddlery and bookbinding. The Route of Washington of Routes The of about 360 km (223 miles) starting from La was an American diplomatist Irving includes municipalities that are heirs to a countryside villages and craggy villas at the foot of Arab Historical Rábida, in Huelva, known for the monastery and writer (1783-1859) who is Legendary baths Hiking Fountain great craft tradition that includes cooperage, citadels and castles, towns that gather extraordinary T th T founded at the beginning of the 15 century where the prototype of the Romantic bobbin lace-making, embroidery, and typical monuments in the midst of natural areas of incomparable Columbian Panoramic Christopher Columbus conceived and managed his project traveller. Charmed by Europe, he was Places Church viewpoint Dolmen Andalusian or flamenco dressmaking. interest. The uses, customs and traditions that cheer up the to find a new route to the Indies, and which led him to totally bewitched by the “exotic” Labour with vegetable fibres and life of these villages, where agriculture is the main activity, discover the American continent. It continues on to Palos Andalusia. On arriving in Spain in Andalusí Medieval Civilian other specialities such as jewellery and Castle Castle building Horses offer an additional incentive for a fascinating journey. de la Frontera and Moguer and other villages that the 1826, the American ambassador guitar-making complete the artisan traveller passed through on his way back and forth commissioned Washington Irving to scenery along the Route. between Seville and Huelva. All of them are described in give him some documents relating to his diary: Villarrasa, Niebla, La Palma del Condado and the Discovery of America kept at San Villalba del Alcor. The route traverses Sanlúcar la Mayor Lorenzo del Escorial to be studied. In 1829 he travelled from Seville to Granada, where he FEASTS before reaching Seville, the city where Washington Irving Attracted by his curiosity towards the stayed for a time. His writing at this period was full of lived for 14 months. The road linking Seville and Granada Columbian themes, he undertook a journey to Moguer, Hispano-Moorish references, such as the world-renowned he cycle of festivities in places along the route of historically had a marked frontier character. It was an Palos de la Frontera and La Rábida in order to better The Alhambra tales, that contributed so much to shape the Washington Irving follows the usual pattern in Andalusia. Informations Points El legado andalusí artery of communications established many centuries document Christopher Columbus. Romantic image of Andalusia. It includes Easter, fairs and celebrations in honour of T A ÁBIDA LCALÁ DE UADAÍRA RCHIDONA before that in the late Middle Ages served as a trade route patron saints. The season begins in spring, followed by a very L R A G A Monasterio de Santa María de Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. The Iberian Peninsula went through one of the most between the Christian peninsular south and the Nasrid busy schedule in summer; Corpus Christi is very popular and so la Rábida. Camino del Avda. Tren de los Panaderos s/n. Plaza Ochavada, 2. privileged periods in its history during the Muslim kingdom of Granada. ARCHITECTURE are the different pilgrimages. Flamenco is an unmistakable Monasterio Tel. 955 796 474 Tel. 952 716 479 Tel. 959 350 411 The Route largely follows the outline of the A-92 highway. feature of popular culture ARAHAL LOJA era, which resulted in a brilliant civilization. During Oficina de Turismo. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. From Seville, it reaches initially Alcalá de Guadaíra and throughout this area, to which PALOS DE LA FRONTERA Calle Serrano, 6. Plaza de la Constitución 1. this time, Andalusia became the cultural focus of MUSLIM, BAROQUE, POPULAR Oficina de Turismo. Arahal. It makes incursions on both sides of this central Moguer, Niebla, Alcalá de Guadaíra, Antequera and Loja, many festivals and fairs stand Tel. 955 841 417 Tel. 958 321 520 Europe and the link between East and West. axis: firstly, on the north, it approaches Carmona, he considerable architectural heritage in towns and and well-preserved baths such as those in Alhama de witness. Grape harvest C/ Rábida 7. Tel. 959 991 092 CARMONA HUÉTOR-TÁJAR Marchena and Écija. It runs across lands of Antequera and villages along the route provides, in the first Granada. There are countless Mudéjar and Baroque festivals are worthy of great Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Casa de la Cultura. further on it turns North again, heading to Montefrío and place, an extraordinary selection of Hispano- buildings in the area, such as the Carmelite interest. Some of them have MOGUER Alcázar de la Puerta de Sevilla s/n. Plaza Gregorio Peláez s/n. The Routes of El legado andalusí go through those T Oficina de Turismo.Teatro Tel. 954 190 955 Tel. 645 596 752 Íllora, finally visiting Alhama de Granada, several Muslim (Andalusi) buildings, followed in time by Convent in Villalba del Alcor, churches with had a long tradition, such as Felipe Godínez. Calle Andalucía paths which connected the kingdom of Granada MARCHENA kilometers to the south. North of the A-92, the road leads Mudéjar, Baroque and bell towers that are reminders of the one celebrated in La Tel. 959 371 898 MORALEDA DE ZAFAYONA with the rest of al-Andalus in the past. Along this Oficina de Municipal de Ayuntamiento. us to Montefrío and Íllora, returning through Fuente popular artistic minarets, lace-like plaster Palma del Condado. NIEBLA Turismo. Ctra. del Canal, 6. 958 443 002 itinerary the travellers have the possibility of Vaqueros and Chauchina to the main route before ending manifestations. Together decorative motifs recalling Oficina de Turismo. Calle Las Torres, 40. Tel. Museo Lorenzo Coullaut Valera. Calle Arrabal, 36 ALHAMA DE GRANADA enjoying wonderful landscapes on a quiet journey, in Santa Fe and Granada. with the outstanding Muslim crafts, as well as Tel. 955 321 010 Ext. 175 HORSEMANSHIP Tel. 959 363 700 Oficina Municipal de Turismo. examples of Muslim art in palaces and public tasting exquisite dishes and giving free rein to their ÉCIJA Carrera Francisco Toledo, 10. VILLARRASA LANDSCAPE Seville –Giralda and buildings. This route also Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Tel. 958 360 686 imagination by turning past events into a present Ayuntamiento. Palacio de Benamejí. Alcázar– and in Granada – offers a plain popular n old saying maintains that the reason why horses in the Plaza de España Calle Elvira 1-A. MONTEFRÍO experience. Oficina de Turismo. t the beginning of the route the traveller will find a Alhambra–, towns and architecture that can be countryside of Seville are so fleet of foot is because the Tel. 959 419 238 Tel. 955 902 933 Plaza de España, 1. great diversity of landscapes, including the Odiel villages along the way also found in the urban mares are made pregnant by the wind; this is an example A LA PALMA DEL CONDADO OSUNA Tel. 958 336 004 Oficina de Turismo. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Marshes –Biosphere Reserve– , one of the most provide equally notable constructions and in the of equine lore surrounding the tremendous popularity of the local ÍLLORA Andalusian Public Foundation A Plaza de España. Calle Sevilla, 37. Oficina Municipal de Turismo El legado andalusí important wetlands of the Iberian Peninsula, and Doñana buildings –castles and farms and country houses breed along the route. An image of these swift animals is Tel. 954 815 732 . Tel. 959 402 409/630 878 903 Av. San Rogelio, s/n. Calle Mariana Pineda s/n. Corral del Carbón. 18009, Granada, Spain. National Park, declared World Heritage Site by fortresses such as those of along the way. associated, furthermore, with travellers and with the legendary ESTEPA Tel. 672 152 766 Tel.: +34 958 225 995. VILLALBA DEL ALCOR UNESCO. The undulations of the countryside make way bandits that frequently featured as part of the landscape. It can Oficina Municipal de Turismo. www.legadoandalusi.es - [email protected]. Ayuntamiento. FUENTE VAQUEROS Ayuntamiento. Facebook y Twitter: legadoandalusi to a more rugged landscape upon reaching Estepa, where be confirmed that the horses bred today in the American Plaza de España, 1. Ayuntamiento. Calle Aguilar y Cano, s/n. the foothills of the sub-Baetic mountain range start to continent, both in the North and in the South, have their origins Tel. 959 421 224 Plaza Doctor Pareja, 1. Tel. 955 912 717 (Ext 526.) Tel. 958 516 535 appear, as the itinerary opens up to plains and hills Above, a Romantic view of Carmona. in Andalusia, specifically in Doñana marshes. From there, they SANLÚCAR LA MAYOR Corral del Carbón. Headquarters of El legado andalusí Andalusian Public Foundation. In the background, the tower of San LA RODA DE ANDALUCÍA CHAUCHINA between Seville and Granada, between two river valleys, Pedro, inspired by the Giralda tower, were taken along in Christopher Columbus’ second voyage and Oficina de Turismo. Ayuntamiento. Ayuntamiento. those of the Guadalquivir and its main tributary, the looking like a minaret, and the thick on successive expeditions to these lands, where the use of horses Juan Carlos I, 19 local 7 Calle Real, 25. Plaza de la Constitución, 12. walls of the Alcázar of Seville Tel. 955 10 06 00 Ext. 1330 Tel. 954 016 006 Tel. 958 455 120 Genil. The route is dotted with lagoons, particularly Gateway, originally Roman and was totally unknown hitherto. Pilgrimages and Horses are Fuente de Piedra lagoon. We will also come across reformed by the Almohads. common themes in these territories. Many of the villages and SEVILLE FUENTE DE PIEDRA SANTA FE Oficinas de Turismo de la Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. whimsical limestone formations in the Torcal de Below, variety of landscapes along towns along the Route offer a wide variety of festive-religious Junta de Andalucía. Calle Castillo, 1. Calle Isabel la Católica, 7. Antequera, precursor to the Vega (river fertile valley) that the Route. events in which the horse is one of the main protagonists. There - Aeropuerto de Sevilla. Tel. 952 735 453 Arco de Sevilla. Autopista de San Pablo s/n. Tel. 958 513 110 will lead the traveller to Granada. are studs along the Route in Niebla, Écija, Marchena, Osuna, Tel. 954 782 035 HUMILLADERO Antequera, Loja and even - Estación de Santa Justa. Ayuntamiento. GRANADA Avda. Kansas City s/n. Avda. del Emigrante, 1. Oficina de Turismo de la Junta nearer Granada devoted Tel. 954 782 002 Tel. 952 737 023 de Andalucía. Plaza Nueva. Santa Ana, 4. to thoroughbred Spanish Oficina Municipal de MOLLINA Tel. 958 575 202 horses and sometimes, Información Turística Ayuntamiento. - Paseo Alcalde Marqués del Calle de la Alameda, 1. Oficina de Información Turística Arabs also. It is, Contadero, 9. Tel. 952 740 044 del Patronato Provincial. therefore, a route where Tel. 955 471 232 Calle Cárcel Baja 3. ANTEQUERA Tel. 958 247 128 riding part of the way is a Oficina de Turismo de la Oficina Municipal de Turismo. real possibility. Provincia Calle Encarnación, 4 Oficina Municipal de de Sevilla Información Turística. Above, typical Moorish baths, al-hammam in Arabic, origin of the name Alhama. They consist of a Tel. 952 702 505 courtyard, a hall, a cold room, a warm room with a pool and the hot room, where the steam and hot - Plaza del Triunfo, 1. Ayuntamiento de Granada. 954 210 005 water are produced by a boiler. Tel. Plaza del Carmen s/n. Tel. 958 248 280 Visigoths, Arabs and Christians. The Church of Santa María de la that it must have been quite important. In times of al-Andalus, for the kings of Castile and at last surrendered during the siege LA RÁBIDA Granada was considered in the Muslim period as the main SEVILLE Qarmuna even turned into the main town of an independent ESTEPA by Prince Ferdinand’s forces in 1410. The inhabitants retreated HUÉTOR-TÁJAR FUENTE VAQUEROS mosque. The Church of San Martín, on the other hand, was the principality and provided itself with staunch walls. The Alcázar to Archidona nearby, or to Granada, where they formed the La Rábida is an enclave belonging to the municipality of Palos minor mosque. Alphonso X granted this temple to the Jews of History, scenery, art and atmosphere come together in one of the de Arriba belongs to this period and so do the reinforcements to Approaching the eastern border of the district of La Antequeruela. The walls at one time appeared This was an old farming property called Quariyat Tayara, I had my first dream of remoteness in de la Frontera, located 5 km from the place from where Niebla as a synagogue and was later turned into a church by the most captivating cities, where light, air and colour create a the Gateway of Seville and layout of the old centre of town. In province of Seville, the route of sturdy and strong; among the numerous churches, the ones that under a tall handsome tower that still stands. It was this village, wrote Federico García Christopher Columbus set out on his voyage to America. La Christians. One of the best-known architectural features of Niebla gamut of sensations on the banks of the Guadalquivir, ‘big river’ the neighbourhood of San Fernando square, the church of Washington Irving arrives in Estepa, stand out are the Royal Collegiate church of Santa María la formed by the joining of two settlements at the Lorca of the place where he was Rábida is mainly known for the monastery founded at the is the Roman Bridge over the river Tinto, just at the entrance to in Arabic. The legend says that Seville was founded by Hercules Santa María is worth pointing out, built over the main mosque, perched on the slopes of a hill that Mayor that has a magnificent Renaissance façade and the end of the 15th c., the morisco population having born in 1898. His family home is beginning of the 15th century. It was here that Christopher the town. over 2,500 years ago; it flourished in the times of Tartessos and it still has the courtyard of ablutions and minaret. Also in this foreshadows the sierras to come. It church of San Sebastián standing in a large square alongside stayed behind after the reconquest. The one of the most visited buildings in Columbus stayed with his son Diego, and the place where he Rome and achieved the rank of what might be termed area are the town’s museum in a lovely Baroque palace beside was Astapa to the Iberians who the 18th c. Arch of El Nazareno and a 1545 fountain. The irrigation system put down by the Arabs are in the world. The village, that grew up conceived and managed his project to find a new route to the VILLARRASA metropolis in the course of the nearly 550 years of Muslim the church, and other handsome mansions, churches and bravely resisted the Romans. In Municipal Museum, housed in the 18th c. palace of Nájera, many ways intact, however, now the white around a fountain, used to be part Indies, which led him to discover the American continent. In history. The extensive old town centre –surrounded by walls of convents. The church of Santiago is interesting and there are Arabic it was called Istabba, acquiring contains a splendid collection of Baroque painting and pieces mulberries and the silk of those times have of Soto de Roma, a royal game 1949 it was declared “First Historical Monument of the Villarrasa is a place where a which there are still extant sections, such as that of La several Mudéjar churches such as that of San Felipe and the some relevance owing to its strategic such as the Ephebe, a Roman bronze from the 1st c. A strange given way to asparagus crops. These preserve that the Courts of Cádiz Hispanic peoples” and is considered to be the most emblematic multitude of cultures have Macarena– was formed in the 12th and 13th centuries, when convent of Santa Clara, that has a revolving ‘dumb waiter’ that location on a crossroads. It was place called El Torcal stands in the hills 13 km (8 miles) from nourishing vegetables are usually consumed in gifted to the first Duke of Wellington in perpetuity in monument for the Discovery of the New World. In Muelle de las historically succeeded each Ishbiliya became the peninsular capital of the Almohad caliphs, mysteriously dispatches delicious sweetmeats. reconquered by the Castilians in 1249 Antequera; it consists of a lunatic landscape of bizarre omelette, soups or sauces. Asparagus recognition for his service during the War of Independence. Carabelas (dock of caravels), inaugurated on 15 March 1994, in other: Carthaginians, vying with Marrakech in grand buildings. Signs of that past are and played an important part in the geological formations shaped by water and wind. plantations can be visited in the orchards by addition to the replicas of the ships, the main tourist attraction is Romans, Visigoths and visible in countless corners and buildings: the Santa Cruz MARCHENA war of Granada. There is a splendid the Genil river. the Museum, consisting of an interpretation centre, the medieval Muslims have all left their district, the Jewry, centre, Triana and the Alameda quarter, as view of the countryside from the CHAUCHINA quarter (recreated around the dock) and Isla del Encuentro mark. It is located in a well as the neighbourhood of the Cathedral –where the mosque’s Lying to the south west of castle on top of the hill; the church of Santa María and the MORALEDA DE ZAFAYONA (encounter island), where the indigenous culture of the island of privileged position, with courtyard is now the Cathedral’s courtyard and the Giralda Carmona, Marchena is an convent of Santa Clara are worth mentioning. Further down, The origin of this name is unknown. Guanahani, the first American land on which the discoverer set quick access to different tower, the Alcázar, a set of palaces and gardens built between essentially farming community there are the Museum, the Baroque tower of La Victoria and After about 8 km (5 miles) on the A- It might come from the Roman his foot, has been recreated. communication routes. Its the 10th to 15th centuries; the Atarazanas –the old shipyards–, with a most remarkable artistic some Baroque churches, such as El Carmen and Los 92 highway, we reach this tiny village Sancius, from willow. It was probably monuments include the the towers of Silver and of Gold by the river and the old mosque heritage. It was known as Colonia Remedios. The aroma of spices used for making polvorones and to have a short rest and to visit Cerro one of the many farmsteads that were Church of Nuestra Señora where El Salvador church now stands are all outstanding among Martia by the Romans and mantecados (eaten nearly exclusively at Christmas) pervades de la Mora, an old Ibero-Roman dotted about Baetica, with excellent de las Angustias (Place of the places in Seville that are worthy of note. Marssna’anh in Arabic. After the the atmosphere; there is a small monographic museum on settlement, with a most interesting wheat, olive oil and wine. In the Cultural Interest), the reconquest by the Christians, it these sweetmeats. Visigoth necropolis nearby. The road kingdom of Granada, it became one of Hermitage of Nuestra was awarded to the Duke of Arcos is well paved and offers sights of the many fortresses. The atmosphere Señora de los Remedios, who provided it with many Genil river and Cerro del Pino, with the Agicampe watchtower is traditional, with avenues along the side of the river. Two of whose structure is crowned imposing buildings. La Mota castle LA RODA DE ANDALUCÍA on top. the typical dishes here are frogs’ legs and fried cod. by a belfry and a dome, and the Church of San Vicente Mártir, is in the higher part of the town, it was the bastion of the the town's parish church. Outside the town centre is the ancient Almohad precincts of the 12th and 13th centuries with the ALHAMA DE GRANADA Gadea Bridge, built in 1935 over the river Tinto, a landmark in Gates of Seville and of Morón. Santa María, Plaza Ducal, the Found in the midst of an ocean of olive SANTA FE the landscape of this enclave. church of San Juan Bautista, that houses nine paintings by trees on the road from Seville to the Hanging from an Zurbarán, the municipal archaeological collection and a province of Málaga. It was founded in enormous rock or peak This is the last town permanent exhibition of the sculptures of Coullaut-Valera are 1546 in an area that had not been like an eagle’s nest, on the A-92 highway LA PALMA DEL CONDADO some of the things that can be seen on a visit. inhabited for centuries owing to its ARCHIDONA wrote Théophile before reaching PALOS DE LA FRONTERA location in no-man’s land on the Gautier of Alhama, Granada. Founded The first references to the ÉCIJA Moorish-Castilian border. The church of Our route went around El Peñón de los Enamorados (lovers’ rock) with a with houses perched by Ferdinand and Palos de la Frontera is town’s name appear in Nuestra Señora de los Llanos is worth precipice on one side over our heads. That morning we went through over a very Isabella in 1491 as known worldwide as inscriptions dating from The route continues noting and so are the hermitages. It is Archidona, standing on the side of a hill where the ruins of a Moorish impressive ravine. It the quarters during the cradle of the Roman times. During the over rolling cultivated best known for the delicious virgin fortress are visible by a hill with three peaks. This is Washington is famous for the the siege of the Discovery of America. Muslim period, La Palma fields, only some olive oil it produces. Irving’s description of the town founded by the Turdetani. The spa, al-hamman, Nasrid capital, it has On 3 August 1492, was a rural farmhouse. In patches of scrub and Roman name was Arcis Domina meaning Lady of the Heights, whence the name, a moat, walls and two caravels, La Pinta the immediate vicinity olive groves, till we Arabized as Arsuduna. Abd ar-Rahman I arrived here before but its origins are lost in time. From the Muslim period the parade-ground, all and La Niña, and the there is an Arab fortress get to Écija in a dip in FUENTE DE PIEDRA proclaiming the independent Emirate of al-Andalus in Córdoba Torresolana watchtower and the Pósito, an old 13th c. on a grid-like layout. The walls have disappeared, but the four ship Santa María set with thick slate walls ALCALÁ DE GUADAÍRA the landscape, bathed and under the Caliphate, it became the capital town of the cora synagogue, stand out. The features of al-Andalus are noticeable doors are still standing –Granada, Loja, Seville and Jaén. The sail from this port called Castillo de la Reina by the Genil river, The name –meaning ‘stone fountain’– comes from the fountain of of Rayya, a name that still exists in a farming property nearby. particularly in what is called the Moorish district. The fall of old centre of town is considered a Historical-Artistic Site, commanded by (Queen's Castle). Within Here Irving noticed packs of mules with cool waters from medicinal water in the middle of the village. The defences started being erected in the 9th c. and were Alhama to the Castilians had enormous psychological effects in where we can see the Antigua Casa Real (old royal house), the Admiral Christopher the town itself, we can visit the Torreón del Valle, a crenelated and donkeys loaded with large baskets of Sierra Nevada. This It was already known and appreciated in rebuilt in the 13th c. on the side of Sierra de Gracia, from Granada. Queen Isabella ordered three churches to be built over parish church, Town Hall and granary. This can be the base for Columbus and the tower originally from the Almohad period. Above it is the loaves and rolls referring to the well- town has remote ancient times. This is a quiet small village where beautiful sunsets may be seen. The hermitage of Nuestra three mosques; one of them is the church of La Encarnación, a organizing excursions around the vega (plains) in this lovely Pinzón brothers hermitage-castle devoted to Nuestra Señora del Valle, built in known baking tradition in Alcalá, origins and it was one of the three main towns of Roman near Laguna Salada, the largest lagoon in Señora de Gracia stands over the only extant mosque in the gothic building from the end of the 15th and beginning of the countryside of the hollow of Granada. The most popular feasts carrying a crew of sailors from Palos and the surrounding area, the 15th century in Mudejar style. The church of San Juan still applicable nowadays. The Baetica. It was Astigi to the Romans and there are a few Andalusia, with nearly 1,400 province of Málaga. The town extends from the medieval town 16th centuries. Alhama’s famous baths with medicinal waters, are on 12th October –La Hispanidad– and Merendica on 25th bound for the unknown. Only a few ruins remain today of the Bautista also stands out. Worthy of mention are manor houses Arabic name al-Qalat, the fortress, remains from those times, on view in the church of Santa María hectares. Migrating birds –Villa Alta– on streets that run already known in Roman times, can be accessed through a November. A famous sweet, the pionono, of morisco origin, is existing medieval fortress, next to the church. In his diary, and wine cellars. In September, La Palma del Condado reveals its importance at the time. and of El Cabildo, together with vestiges of medieval art and congregate here, particularly from the hills to the plains, with picturesque gorge made by the river. The arcade over the pool typical of Santa Fe. Washington Irving accounts for his visit to Martín Alonso celebrates one of the oldest fairs in Spain, known as the Real The Almohads built a gigantic other later ones. At the time of al-Andalus, Écija flourished and flamingos in large numbers, countless squares, such as Plaza was built around the year 1100 with caliphal arches and vaults Pinzón’s House, now turned into a museum: The house is placed Feria (Royal Fair). This title was granted in 1398 by the King fortification on a hill overlooking it even became the centre of one of the countless Taifa this being one of the few Ochavada (eight-sided) with with star-shaped openings for lighting. There are lovely gardens on a hill among vineyards belonging to the Pinzón family, which cover a Henry III el Doliente. the village with some splendid principalities for a very brief moment. The Almohads built walls places where they nest. arcades, dating from the 18th c. on both sides of the river, making the whole scene very attractive. GRANADA large part of what was once the old town of Palos. The descendants of buildings, as well as a pretty and towers in the 12th c. and it achieved its present general Excursions are organized from The spa stands at about 850 m. asl. the Pinzón family have lived here until a few years ago. The Mudejar church. Below, the outlines at that time. There is a compact historical centre and here to surrounding countryside Granada is the Damascus of visit to this municipality is completed with the Parish Church of VILLALBA DEL ALCOR Guadaíra river, Wad-Shira –river of numerous 18th c. buildings, making it an outstanding HUMILLADERO at La Hoz de Marín and to the MONTEFRÍO al-Andalus, pasture of the San Jorge and the Fontanilla de Colón where, according to abundance–flows, whose current representative of Andalusian Baroque, with a skyline of many Lagoons of Archidona, wetlands eyes, uplift for our souls. It tradition, the ships were supplied with water before setting sail The origins of Villalba del moved the old flour mills that can still be seen. From Alcalá to graceful bell towers. Apart from being known as «the town of This small village was declared a natural reserve. The road turns to the has an impregnable fortress to America. Alcor were due to its Carmona, the way passes Gandul, an enchanting village with an towers», it is also called «the frying pan of Andalusia» for the founded as a result of all the north and starts with high walls and splendid attractiveness as a border Almohad tower beside a Baroque palace, among Roman ruins very high temperature that is reached in summer. Of note in comings and goings in the climbing. We suddenly buildings. It is notable for the area for Christians and and medieval remains. this town is the main square –Plaza Mayor–, called El Salón, Middle Ages concerned LOJA come upon the place peculiarity of its river that MOGUER Muslims. The high showing characteristic houses with galleries. While strolling with the conquest of chosen by the Nasrid flows through the houses, strategic value of the town about the town, we can see the churches of Santa María, Santa Antequera by the Christians My city has a smiling face, the aspect of a charmer and of beautiful king Ismail III, crowned baths, market places, outside During the times of al- led to the construction of a ARAHAL Cruz, Santiago and San Gil, the palaces of Peñaflor and in 1410. It is a quiet women who cure the ills of the heart. These are the words written by by the Abencerrajes, to and inside mills and gardens, Andalus, Moguer used fortress, which was also a Benamejí and other delightful buildings, among which we can agricultural village, set in the polygraph Ibn al-Khatib, born in Loja in 1313. It is easy to set up his court. The wrote al-Saqundi in the to be a farmhouse mosque in that period. It We drive ahead on A-92 highway, get glimpses of artisans’ workshops. attractive countryside, mostly among olive trees, some pine see why it was considered «door and key to the kingdom of Granada» village stands at the foot 13th c. When al-Andalus belonging to the belonged to Niebla until 1253, when it was reconquered by going across the core of the woods, Sierra de Humilladero and La Ratosa lagoon to the by Isabella and Ferdinand. It nestles between two sierras on the of a large rock that seems to be on the point of flattening the place was wounded to death powerful Taifa kingdom Alphonso X the Wise. Later on, it passed into the hands of Sevillian fertile countryside until we OSUNA north, also a refuge for migrating birds, it has been declared a western side of the plains, where the Genil river forms the to oblivion. It was reconquered by the Christian Monarchs in after the Almohad defeat of Niebla. It was the Leonor Núñez, daughter of the high sheriff of Niebla. Around reach Arahal, a land of uncertain natural reserve. narrow pass of Los Infiernos (hell). Remains of the alcazaba 1486 and they ordered the original church to be built over a at Navas de Tolosa, the Nasrid dynasty, founded by Ibn al- birthplace of Juan 1350, the town was bought by Alvar Pérez de Guzmán, and his origin that seems to deepen its roots Standing on the slope of a low rise, this town has one of the (fortress) stand with Christian bell towers on both sides. mosque, between the walls of the fortress of al-Andalus, a good Ahmar, upheld the kingdom of Granada until the final downfall. Ramón Jiménez, lineage settled there until the 15th century. A walk around the in Arab times. A great variety of most remarkable architectural and artistic heritages in the Legend maintains that none less than Tubal, grandson of Noah, example of Gothic-Renaissance architecture and a National This is the period of which there is more evidence than of any winner of the Nobel streets reveals us the intimate town of Villalba, that takes us tourist attractions can be enjoyed in country. It was known as Urso to the Iberians and Romans and MOLLINA was the founder. It was a trading post under the Phoenicians, Monument where Diego de Siloé was later to build the town’s other in this magnificent city, which was to become the Prize for Literature, back to the past; a town of churches such as San Bartolomé and the town, from its assorted range of it was Osona in Arabic until it became Osuna when it was known at that time as Tricolia and it flourished under the church. Proof of habitation throughout the ages is Peña de los inspiration of Romantic writers. Final stage of the Route of whose house-museum convents such as the Carmelite, built in Baroque architecture, cooking specialities to the deepest reconquered by the Castilians. It became the main town of a We come to the municipal Muslims. The occupation of Loja «flower among thorns» by Gitanos, one of the largest archaeological sites in the province. On Washington Irving, common destination of all the Routes of El can be visited. The and that of Altillo friars; a stately Villalba, where old manor traditions. Arahal displays a rich powerful dukedom. There are examples of its past in the higher district of Mollina, where Ferdinand of Aragon presaged the end of the Nasrid kingdom. a series of terraces between cultivated fields, there is the outline of legado andalusí and capital city of the last Muslim kingdom of monuments of the town include the Monastery of Santa Clara, houses stand out, such as the Casa del Cañón; a modest Villalba, architectural heritage, with many part of town: the quarries and the Roman necropolis, the there are various Most of its outstanding architecture was put up between the a settlement lived in from Palaeolithic times up to the Middle Ages. the Iberian Peninsula, Granada preserves in the palace of the declared as National Monument in 1931. From the period of as shown in the ancient Hospital de la Misericordia, from the monuments worth visiting, among University building in front of another outstanding archaeological sites dating 16th and 18th centuries, including the churches of La There are Argaric remains, dolmens, Roman, Visigoth and Alhambra the memory of a unique civilization that represents al-Andalus, the Castle of Moguer, an Almohad military 17th century and a wine-producing Villalba, where the smell of them the Church-Hospital of Santo Renaissance building, the Collegiate church –a really imposing from Neolithic times up to Encarnación, San Gabriel and Santa Catalina. It is a pleasure to Muslim sepulchres and a historical treasure that has been sacked one of the most precious treasures of Humanity. construction, has been preserved. A visit to Almirante Hernández- the wine from old cellars is still in the air. Cristo de la Misericordia and the creation overlooking the town. Inside, there is a collection of the end of the Middle Ages. stroll through this town of many fountains. repeatedly. Once here, the visitor is recommended to taste game Pinzón’s House is also worth of visiting. It was here where Church of Santa María Magdalena. jewels, the Ducal Pantheon and a museum with splendid oil However, Mollina did not dishes, especially partridge and rabbit and sesos al mojeteo (brain stew). Washington Irving stayed during his trip to the Columbian Places SANLÚCAR LA MAYOR paintings by José de Ribera. Below stands the Baroque really mature into a grown- in 1828. Furthermore, 3,590 hectares of the municipal area of convent of La Encarnación, containing an assortment of religious up town until the 16th c. ÍLLORA Moguer are part of Doñana National and Natural Park, declared The Muslims, upon their art and tiles. There is also the Archaeological Museum housed when it became well-known a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1994. arrival, turned the town CARMONA in Torre del Agua. Continuing downwards, the Plaza Mayor for its wine and olive oil. Nearby in Sierra of La Camorra, there After crossing fields that, into an economic and opens out and long streets lead out, such as Sevilla and San are several caves with prehistoric paintings, such as that of Los according to Ibn al-Khatib, supply centre for Perched on the highest point of Los Pedro, full of churches, convents and mansions. Porqueros. Not far, in Santillán park there are remains of a were a mine of excellent wheat, NIEBLA agricultural products of Alcores, an area of hills extending Roman fort and temple. house and place of cattle, the Islamic Seville. From its eastwards from Seville, we come traveller goes upon the so- The walls of Niebla Muslim past there are still upon Carmona, whose name ANTEQUERA called ojo derecho de Granada owe their present-day remains of the Almohad apparently has Punic origins –Kar- (Granada’s darling), on the style to the Almohads. wall that surrounded it, as Hammon, city of the god Hammon. The three monumental dolmens of Menga, Viera and El slopes of Sierra de The Castle of Los well as the ruins of a In Roman times it became one of the Romeral, from between 2,000 and 2,500 BC, are colossal Parapanda. It was mentioned by Pliny and it was the Suebi, Guzmanes stands castle, also from the Almohad period, whose function was to leading towns in this part of the funerary reminders from Neolithic times, indicating this town’s Visigoths and Muslims –particularly the Nasrids– who were inside the walls. protect the west flank of Seville. The Almohad minarets that countryside, deduced from the remote origin. Standing at the confluence of several roads, with responsible for the great fortress around which the village Despite its Roman have been converted into bell towers in the churches of San monumental size of the Gateways of the passage of time it has become one of the greater Andalusian grew. The Christian addition is another elegant church by origins, it has Pedro and Santa María date from this period. On the outskirts Córdoba and of Seville, as well as historical sites. There is a view of the cultivated plains from the Diego de Siloé, La Encarnación –built between 1542 and undergone several of Sanlúcar la Mayor we will found the farmsteads Benazuza, to from the remarkable Necropolis in walls. During Muslim times, it belonged to the cora (district) of 1573. The first governor was Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, alterations by the south of the town, and al-Yamanah, with similar gardens to what used to be the outskirts, but is Rayya and then in 1314 it passed on to the cora of Ilbira under the Gran Capitán, the ruins of his mansion are visible, showing successive peoples: those of the Maria Luisa Park in Seville. now in the town, which also shows the Nasrid kingdom of Granada. It was a permanent temptation the coat of arms on the façade.