The Gateway to Burgundy – Cruising Auxerre to Sens
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Booking Codes G105, G115 & G117 The Gateway to Burgundy – Cruising Auxerre to Sens 7 days staying full board at the 4* Mercure Appoigny Sunday 12th June Saturday 17th September Sunday 25th September £1,395 Single room supplement only £135 Moored on the Yonne in Auxerre A blend of cruise and exploration taking us to some of the great heritage attractions of the “Gateway to Burgundy” as we follow the scenic River Yonne between the fine cities of Auxerre and Sens. Our cruise route follows the Yonne downstream from Auxerre for some 65km as the river winds its way north- westwards towards its confluence with the Seine at Montereau. Although much of our cruising will be in a rural setting, we pass the memorable backdrop of Auxerre with its skyline dominated by the great Cathedral St- Étienne and the Abbaye St-Germain; and there are more stunning riverside views in mediaeval Joigny, where we also schedule a pause for the weekly market. We stay throughout at the welcoming and convenient Mercure Hotel in Appoigny, just north of Auxerre. Our cruising between Auxerre and Sens comes in three legs which may be cruised in either direction. Here we describe each leg as though cruising from south to north though of course the content is the same either way. Auxerre to Migennes Booking Codes G105, G115 & G117 Starting from Auxerre, we board just to the south of the city centre in the lovely setting of the Parc des Arbres. (The Park of Trees). At this point we are at the northernmost end of the Canal du Nivernais, which will eventually connect with the River Loire at Décize; but we are heading in the opposite direction and our one lock on the Nivernais drops us down on to the Yonne and opens up the marvellous vista that is the Auxerre riverfront. As we cruise slowly through the city we will pass under the 700-year old Pont Paul Bert, followed by a pedestrian footbridge and the pleasure port moorings to our right. Locks follow at fairly regular intervals today as the river meanders northwards out of the city and through the attractive villages of Monéteau and Gurgy. As we pass Gurgy we join a 5km canal cut which bypasses some particularly extravagant meanders before we rejoin the river just before Bassou, noted for its production of edible snails. Just before Bassou we will also see the River Serein flowing into the Yonne from the east side – we will see more of this pretty tributary on our first excursion day. From Bassou the river continues its wandering until we reach the town of Migennes, and here a deep lock lifts us up on to the Canal de Bourgogne where we moor for the day. Leaving the Yonne to join the Canal de Bourgogne at Migennes Migennes to Villeneuve-sur-Yonne Booking Codes G105, G115 & G117 From Migennes we drop back down on the Yonne and the river now turns more westwards, with two locks taking us through mediaeval Joigny, another delightful riverside setting with the old town overlooking from the steep valley-sides to the north. Above the town are vineyards of the appellation Bourgogne Côte St-Jacques, the 30 acres of vines here are the most northerly of all the Burgundy appellations. As the waterway leaves Joigny we join an intricate 3km canal cut taking us to the lock in the village of St-Aubin, where we rejoin the river. The Yonne now continues a meandering course north-westwards. We will pass the villages of Villevallier and Armeau , with a more distant view of the old village of St-Julien-du-Sault and the neighbouring 12th Century chapel of Vau Guillain overlooking the river from the west. A final stretch of the Yonne brings us into the historic gated town of Villeneuve -sur-Yonne. Our programme for the week will bring us back into both Joigny and Villeneuve to see more of these interesting historic towns. Villeneuve-sur-Yonne to Sens As we leave Villeneuve-sur-Yonne we immediately pass through our next lock and follow the Yonne on its gently wandering course northwards. The river valley is still flanked by steep hillside to the west, but on the east side the land has levelled and there are occasional views between the trees across arable farmland. The villages of Sérilly, Étigny and Rosoy mark our progress, with a final lock at St-Bond on the approach to our mooring in the centre of Sens. Although this is a relatively quiet waterway, there has been significant investment in recent years in freight barge facilities near Sens, and we may see grain and aggregate barges on the move. The industrial port just south of Sens also accommodates huge rolls of steel cable which are shipped by barge from here to Le Havre. Our three cruise days are separated by two intervening days which we spend exploring more of our cruise pathway. For our first excursion day we begin by heading just east of Auxerre to visit the great Cathedral-Abbey of Pontigny. Built in the 12th century, this is the largest of all Cistercian churches, 108 metres long with a 4,000 m² floor area. The abbey rests in an estate of 10 hectares planted with century-old trees, and reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. In the 12th and 13th centuries, Pontigny welcomed two exiled archbishops of Canterbury, Thomas Becket and Stephen Langton. One of their successors, Edmund of Abingdon, canonised in 1246 and known in France as St. Edme, was laid to rest in the sanctuary. This plaque on the abbey interior explains some of the remarkable history of the cathedral organ. Booking Codes G105, G115 & G117 In Pontigny we also meet the River Serein, a tributary to the Yonne, and we will follow this pretty waterway for the rest of the day. From Pontigny we continue along the Serein Valley on quiet D-road to the iconic wine town of Chablis, home to perhaps the best known of all Burgundy wines. We enjoy a light lunch here at the popular Chablis Bar - with accompanying Chablis of course - and with plenty of time for guests to explore the town centre before we move on. Then in the afternoon we catch-up with the Serein once again in the plus-beaux village of Noyers-sur-Serein. This preserved mediaeval market town is a delight to wander, with its gate towers, cobbled streets, small squares and narrow alleys, half-timbered houses and many historic stone buildings all contained within a loop of the Serein. And of course there are some handy spots at which to relax over an afternoon beverage and just take in the stunning setting. Flat-soled shoes are advisable for this visit! The lovely setting of Noyers-sur-Serein – one of France’s 100 most beautiful villages For our second excursion day the two itineraries differ slightly. Both of them take us to Joigny for the weekly market day and to the great underground Caves de Bailly, old limestone excavations now home to Crémant de Bourgogne, it is only the programme slot that we adapt to fit with Joigny’s market day which is Wednesday. Whichever is the case for the week in question, we spend the balance of our second excursion day in the historic city of Auxerre. Guests should be sure to explore both the mediaeval upper town, with its magnificent Cathedral St-Etiénne, Abbey St-Germain, half-timbered houses and horological clock, and at lower level the riverside vista which is truly memorable especially looking across towards the upper town from the opposite bank. A regular free minibus shuttles between the riverfront and upper town and there are many spots to simply relax and watch the world go by. Lunch is not included today and we will depart at 16:30 . Booking Codes G105, G115 & G117 The Natalia approaches the Pont Paul Bert in Auxerre heading upstream For two of our cruise days we lunch on board the boat, but for our day cruising into Sens we have a little time to spare so we allow ourselves some time to visit Villeneuve-sur-Yonne. The town is circuited by a partly intact 12th century wall, built when Villeneuve was one of the residences of the French kings. There are classic entrance gates at each end of the main throughfare and visitors are also drawn to the lovely Gothic Church of Notre- Dame, which has some stained glass windows dating back to the 13th century. No cruise of the Yonne would be complete without dining here at the Auberge La Lucarne aux Chouettes, so today’s cruise will set off for Sens after lunch. On travel-home day we still have time on our side so after a leisurely breakfast we bid farewell to our hosts at the Mercure and return to Sens where we allow ourselves the late morning and lunchtime to see something on this historic city. Sens still has many traces of its medieval past. Its 12th-16th century cathedral of St. Stephen is one of France's great Gothic cathedrals and much visited for its magnificent stained-glass windows, and the old city centre and nearby garden boulevards are a delight to visit. There is time for guests to choose a bite to eat in Sens before we set off again for Paris and our return Eurostar. For evening meals this week we will dine as a group on five evenings in the hotel’s highly-regarded restaurant, with drinks package included. The Programme – Sunday Departures Cruising between Auxerre and Sens staying at the 4* Mercure Appoigny Day Embark Disembark Km/ Lunch Excursion Dinner Hotel Locks ETD/ETA 1 Sun Report to St Pancras by 09:00 for late morning Eurostar Departure by.