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The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom Well Dressed? Are We Well Dressed?

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The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom Well Dressed? Are We Well Dressed? Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom Well dressed? Are we well dressed? Our clothes are getting cheaper, they follow fashion Five person-years of work leading to this report were more rapidly and we’re buying more and more funded by the Landfill Tax Credit scheme, through the of them. At the same time, we hear more about Biffaward scheme administered by the Royal Society of poor working conditions in clothing factories, the Wildlife Trusts and with 10% funding from Marks and greenhouse effect is becoming more threatening and Spencer. On the way to writing the report, we have the UK is facing a crisis in disposing of its waste. What received help from hundreds of people working in the should we do? sector and have attempted to acknowledge many of them inside the back cover. We would particularly like This report aims to help answer that question, by to acknowledge the contributions of Marisa de Brito, looking at what might happen if the way that our who worked with us for the first half of the project, clothes are made and used were to be changed. What Jon Cullen who designed the graphics, sourced the would happen if we used different fibres, or different photographs and edited and laid out the document, farming practices? What would be the consequence of and our steering committee of Mike Barry from Marks washing our clothes in a different way, or keeping our and Spencer, Peter Jones from Biffa and David Aeron- carpets for longer? What would happen if more of our Thomas from Forum for the Future. clothes were disposed of through clothes banks? Julian M Allwood In the UK we are already awash with information on these questions – so why read this report? Firstly, the Søren Ellebæk Laursen report is intended to be neutral – it does not have an agenda, or seek to promote a particular change Cecilia Malvido de Rodríguez or approach. Secondly, it attempts to take a very broad view of the sector – encompassing the views of Nancy M P Bocken business, government and campaigners and trying to reflect the widest definitions of ‘sustainability’. Thirdly, Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of it attempts to identify the potential for significant and clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom. lasting change by looking at what might happen if a whole industrial sector were to experience a change. Copyright © University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing. All rights reserved. The report is intended to be valuable to a wide range of interested groups. It is written for people in First published in Great Britain 2006 by: business – who have to balance their personal ethics University of Cambridge and the concerns of their consumers with the need for Institute for Manufacturing their business to prosper. It is written for consumers Mill Lane, Cambridge CB2 1RX, UK who have a limited budget but are concerned about the impact of their shopping choices. It is written for ISBN 1-902546-52-0 campaigners and those in education, government and the media – to try to provide as balanced evidence as possible about the present and future impacts of the clothing and textiles sector. Executive Summary In 2000 the world’s consumers spent around • UK based retailers are increasingly specifying US$1 trillion worldwide buying clothes. Around one codes of good practice in labour standards to their third of sales were in Western Europe, one third in suppliers, but there are difficulties in imposing North America and one quarter in Asia. these throughout the supply chain, leading to concerns about working hours, safety and use of • Today, clothing and textiles represent about seven child labour. per cent of world exports. • Most countries in the supply chain have a legal • Globally, the workforce in clothing and textiles minimum wage, but in some cases this is lower production was around 26.5 million in 2000. than a realistic minimum living wage – so while • More than a quarter of the world’s production of the sector offers an opportunity for development clothing and textiles is in China, which has a fast by creating many relatively low skilled jobs, some growing internal market and the largest share of workers are unable to escape from a cycle of world trade. Western countries are still important poverty. exporters of clothing and textiles, particularly • In some countries the right of workers in the sector Germany and Italy in clothing and the USA in to form associations (unions) to represent their textiles. concerns in collective bargaining is suppressed. • Output from the sector is growing in volume, but prices are dropping, as is employment, as new The flow of material through the UK: As part technology and vertically integrated structures of the work described in this report, a clothing and support improved productivity. textiles mass balance for the sector was calculated for the UK. • Growth in volumes is almost entirely associated with polyester – volumes of natural fibre • 3.25 million tonnes of clothing and textiles flow production and use having remained approximately through the UK each year – approximately 55kg constant for several years. per person. • The sector is freer than for many years following • Of this, around half is imported as textile products, the phasing out of international quota agreements a quarter as ‘intermediate products’ (mainly in 2005, but plenty of agreements that distort fabric and yarn) and the rest as fibre (imported or the free-market still exist – with USA government produced in the UK). Approximately two thirds of subsidies of cotton farmers being prominent. the imports of fibres, yarns and fabrics to the UK are man-made. The major environmental impacts of the sector • The UK exports 1.15 million tonnes of clothing and arise from the use of energy and toxic chemicals: textiles each year, comprising fibres, fabric and • The sector’s contribution to climate change is some completed products – mainly clothing and dominated by the requirement for burning fossil carpets. fuel to create electricity for heating water and • One fifth of the UK’s annual consumption air in laundering. Other major energy uses arise (by weight) of clothing and textile products is in providing fuel for agricultural machinery and manufactured in the UK. electricity for production. • Consumers in the UK spend about £780 per head • Toxic chemicals are used widely in cotton per year, purchasing around 2.15 million tonnes agriculture and in many manufacturing stages such (35kg per person) of which one eighth is sent for as pre-treatment, dyeing and printing. re-use through charities and the rest is discarded. • Waste volumes from the sector are high and • The UK clothing and textile industry employed growing in the UK with the advent of ‘fast fashion’. around 182,000 people in 2004 split evenly On average, UK consumers send 30kg of clothing between clothing and textiles. and textiles per capita to landfill each year. • Water consumption – especially the extensive use The future of the sector: in order to anticipate of water in cotton crop cultivation – can also be a likely trends in the sector, we conducted a structured major environmental issue as seen dramatically in ‘Delphi’ study, gathering information from a panel of the Aral Sea region. experts across the sector. Their major predictions are: • Competition in the sector will increase, as skill Social concern has always been a feature of the levels and investment in developing countries sector – and campaigns for improved social conditions continues to grow. Prices in the UK will continue to for low paid workers in developing countries have be driven down. been effective and continue: WELL DRESSED? • Innovations may include new production sorting procedures will be beneficial in reducing technologies to reduce the labour requirement of waste and providing useable clothes to developing garment completion and development of novel countries. ‘smart’ functions. • Recycling is significant for materials with high • Pressure from consumers and legislation is likely impacts in the production phase. Technology to drive increasing demands for environmentally innovations may provide a means to extract sensitive production. In the short term this is likely longer fibres from used textiles, although a recent to focus on the use of chemicals but may extend innovative business for carpet recycling failed to to include re-use of materials and substitution of achieve profitability. alternative materials. • The globalised structure of the clothing and • International campaigns will continue to drive textile supply chain does not have significant improvement in working conditions for employees environmental disadvantage, as energy used in developing countries. in transport is proportionately low and the UK does not have a supply of relevant raw materials. Developing a more sustainable future: the largest Technology innovations such as 3D knitting part of the work for this report was a wide-ranging and weaving may lead to economically viable scenario analysis of various possible futures. The production in the UK, with some consumer analysis included prediction of the environmental, benefits from increased responsiveness. However, economic and social consequences of changes in this will only have environmental benefits if production structure, consumer behaviour, material associated with material recycling. and process innovations and government influence. The main findings of the scenario analysis are: Change in the sector to reduce environmental impact and promote social equity will occur if • Improvement in the environmental performance of driven by consumer choice. According to the analysis the sector is material specific and depends on the of the report, in order to create change, a consumer energy and toxicity life-cycle profile of the material. would: For conventional cotton products, the requirement for energy is driven by laundry, but the use of toxic • Buy second-hand clothing and textiles where chemicals is driven by agriculture.
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