Index

2002 VoI107

Aitken, Bill: art. 'A Lateral Approach Atlas Mountains: art. 'Climbing in to Himalaya', 132; 358 the Atlas Mountains: A Survey', 81 Alaska: art. 'Fathers and Sons', 37; 148 Baintha Brakk (7285m): art. Baintha Alpine Climbing Group: 189,350 Brakk: The Merciful Man-Eater', Alpine Club: in Valedictory Address, 13; 294 1; in arts. 'Confessions of a Band, George: 4, 5, his AC Library Parvenu', 189, 'From the Archives', Annual Report, 352 237; 219, Officers & Committee, Banks, Mike: his review of The 349, Office Bearers, 349, Meetings, Middle-Aged Mountaineer by Jim 350, Annual Dinner, 351, Library, • Curran, 315 352 Bartlett, Phi!: and British Kun Lun Alpine Club Notes: 349 Shan expedition, 308 Alpine Journal: 149,198,240 Baxter-Jones, Roger: 9 , The: poem 'A Monk between Berg, Peter: art. 'From the Archives', Hell and Heaven', 177, arts. 'The 237;358 Manch in Winter', 178, 'Turning Bermudez, Jose Luis: Area Notes Back the Clock', 181, 'Arnold edited by, 247-296; 358 Lunn', 216, 'One Hundred Bicknell, C1aud (1910-2002): obituary Years Ago', 240, 'Alps 2001',247 by Mark Bicknell, 346 Ama Dab1am (6856m): art. 'Ama Blackshaw, Alan: art. 'Human Rights Dablam',18 and Access Freedoms: Is Nature a American Alpine Club: 4 Missing Link?', 139; 198, 358 American Alpine Journal: 2 B1akeney, T S: 192 America, North: art. 'El Nifto', 50 Boardman, Peter: 9 America, North & Central: 297 Boardman Tasker Memorial Award America, South: art. 'Cerro Autana, for Mountain Literature, 351 Venezuela', 31; 148,299 Body, Maggie: her review of Hazard's : 299 Way by Roger Hubank, 314 Anthoine, Mo: 13, 195 Bogie, James: his report 'Ruskin, Ararat, Mount: art. 'Ararat: Another Switzerland and The Alps', 357 Controversial First Ascent', 207 Bohigas, Nil: 9 , The: art. 'An Arctic Odyssey', 108; 302 Area Notes, edited by Jose Luis Book Reviews: BermUdez, 247-296 Hermann Buh/- Climbing without Arran, John: art. 'Cerro Autana, Compromise by Reinhold Messner Venezuela', 31; 358 and Horst Hafter, reviewed by Asia, Central: 308; and British Kun Stephen Venables, 310. Hazard's Lun Shan expedition, 308 Way by Roger Hubank, reviewed

364 INDEX 365

by Maggie Body, 314. The Middle­ A BriefHistory ofBritish Mount­ Aged Mountaineer by Jim Curran, aineering by Colin Wells, 328. reviewed by Mike Banks, 315. Maps ofKarakorum The - A Trekking Guide by & by Tsuneo Miyamori, Cathy and John Biggar, reviewed 328, A Study ofKarakorum & Hindu by Lindsay Griffin, 316. Mystery, Kush Mountains by Tsuneo Beauty, andDanger. The Literature of Miyamori & Sadeo Karibe, 328. the Mountains andMountain Climb­ Top Treks ofthe World, edited by ing Published in English before 1946 Steve Razzetti, 329. The Wall. by Robert H Bates, reviewed by Alexander and Thomas Huber. Terry Gifford, 318. Sicilia. Giuseppe A New Dimension in Climbing, Maurici andRoby Manfre Scuderi by edited by Reinhold Messner, Big Bronco Lane, reviewed by Lindsay Walls. From the North Face ofthe Griffm, 318. Sassolungo by Ivo to the South Face ofDhaulagiri Rabanser reviewed by Lindsay by Reinhold Messner, 329, The Griffm , 319.High Altitude Medicine SecondDeath of George Mallory. The and Biology by John B West Enigma and Spirit ofMountEverest (Editor-in-Chief) reviewed by by Reinhold Messner, 329, Michael Ward, 320. Wanderlust: Climbing Everest. A Meditation on A History of Walking by Rebecca Mountaineering and the Spirit of Solnit reviewed by Terry Gifford, Adventure by Pat Ament, 329, The 320. El Santuario Incaico del Cerro Way to Cold Mountain. A Scottish by Juan Schobinger (Bd), mountain anthology, edited by reviewed by Evelio Echevarria, Alec Finlay, 329, Kiss orKill. 321. Atlas Traverse: Afootfrom Taza Confessions ofa Serial Climber by to Tamri, GTAM95 by Hamish Mark Twight, 329. Brown, reviewed by Dennis Gray, 322. BeyondAdventure by Colin Bolting: in Valedictory Address, 2 Mortlock, reviewed by Dennis Bonington, Chris: 9, 13, 17, in art. Gray, 324. Trekking and Climbing 'Yamandaka', 43, 65,79,189,194, in the Indian Himalaya by Harish and Arganglas 2001 expedition, 305, Kapadia with Victor Saunders; 355 A Passage to Himalaya, Ed. Harish Brailsford, John: 191 Kapadia; For Hills to Climb. The Doon Braithwaite, Paul: 9 School Contribution to Mountain­ (8047m): 293 eering. The Early Years reviewed by Brooks, Frederick Charles (1902-2001): Geoffrey Templeman, 326. obituary by John ST Gibson, 338 Brown, Hamish: art. 'Climbing in the Short reports: Atlas Mountains: A Survey', 81 Mountain Men by Mick Conefrey Brown,Joe: 190,194,358 & Tim Jordan, 327, The Hermitage Buckle, Derek: art. (with John Town) Years ofMannering & Dixon. The 'Upper Kongpo Without a Paddle', Beginnings ofAlpine Climbing in 72 New Zealand by Guy Mannering, Buhler, Carlos: 19 327, Everest by Rebecca Stephens, Burke, Mick: 9 .327, Everest. Reaching the World's Byam-Grounds, John (1917-2000): Highest Peak by Richard Platt, 328, obituary by R Wendell Jones, 342 366 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2002

Canadian Rockies: 244 Echevarria, Evelio: his review ofEl Card, Frank: art. 'Pib. A Memoir of Santuario Incaico del Cerro Aconcagua Colin Pibworth', 230; 358 by Juan Schobinger (Ed.), 321 Cartwright, Jules: art. '', Egypt: in art. 'Middle East & North 18;9,307,359 Africa 1999-2002',267 Caucasus: 255 Eiger: in Terry Gifford's poem 'A Cave, Andy: 9 Monk between Hell and Heaven', China: 306 177 Chuiskyrange, North: art. 'Adventures Emery, Dick: 189 in the Maashey Valley', 95 Environment, The: arts. 'The Fight for Church, Bill: 308 Mountain Environments', 117, Cicogna, Antonella: art. (with Mario 'A Lateral Approach to Himalaya', Manica) 'Climbing in Miyar Nala, 132, 'Human Rights and Access Himachal Pradesh', 54; 359 Freedoms: Is Nature a Missing Clarke, Charles: 65, 79 Link?', 139 Collister, Rob: art. 'Kedar Dome on Estcourt, Nick: 9 Ski', 92; 359 Evans, Charles: 195 Compton, Harrison: 156 Everest (see ) Contributors: 358 Cool, Kenton: in art. 'Fathers and Far East, The: 309 Sons', 37; 9,299 Fletcher, Mike: 298 Cooper, Julian: in art. 'The Art of Flook, Harold (1909-2000): obituary Julian Cooper', 169 by Emst Sondheimer, 337 Cox, David: 197 Fowler, Mick: 9,307 Crawford, Charles Edward Johnstone Freeman-Attwood, Julian: and (1912-2001): obituary by Trevor British Kun Lun Shan expedition, Braham, 335 308 Crew, Peter: 191 Cross, Rich: in art. 'Ama Dablam', 18; Garhwal: art. 'Nilkanth West Ridge', 307 23; 133,276,281 Croucher, Norman: 2 (8058): 293 Gasherbrum IT (8035m): 293 Day, Colin: obituary by David Gifford, Terry: art. 'John Muir: His Baldock, 345 Contribution as a Mountaineering Day, Henry: and British Kun Lun Writer', 161, poem 'A Monk Shan expedition, 308 between Hell and Heaven', 177, his (6194m): and Fathers and Sons review of Mystery, Beauty andDanger Wall, 37; 299 by Robert H Bates, 318, another Diemberger, Kurt: 193 book review, 320; 359 Diran (7266m): 295 Gillies, Ray: 3,9 Downer, Colin: 9 Goodwin, Stephen: art. 'The Art of Doyle, Michael: art. 'Adventures in the Julian Cooper', 169; 359 Maashey Valley', 95; 359 Grant, lan Seafield (1931-2001): obituary by John TH AlIen, 333 Ecclestone, Margaret: 221, report on Gray, Dennis: art. 'Confessions of a her visit to the Ski Club ofGreat Parvenu', 189, his review of Atlas Britain, 356 Traverse: Afootfrom Taza to Tamri, INDEX 367

by Hamish Brown, 322, his review Huber, Alex: and El Niiio, 53 of BeyondAdventure by Colin Huber, Thomas: in art. 'Baintha ~ortlock, 324; 359 Brakk: The merciful ~an-Eater', 13, : art. 'Adventures under and El Niiio, 53 the ~idnight Sun', 100; 148,302 Hussey, Elisabeth: art. 'Arnold Lunn', Gregson, Jim: art. 'Adventures under 216; 360, Plate 51 the ~idnight Sun', 100; 360 Griffin, Lindsay: arts. 'Alps 2001', : arts. 'Nilkanth West Ridge', 23, (with David Hamilton) ' 'Climbing in the ~iyar Nala, 2001',292; 247, 298, 299, his review Himachal Pradesh', 54, 'Kedar of The Andes - a Trekking Guide by Dome on Ski', 92, 'A Lateral Cathy and John Biggar, 316, his Approach to Himalaya', 132, 'India review of Sasso/ungo by Ivo 2001',275; 305 Rabanser, 319, anotherbookreview, In ~emoriam: compiled by Geoffrey 318; 359 Templeman, 331 International Year of ~ountains Habe1er, Peter: 9 2002: 117, 139 Hamilton, David: art. (with Lindsay Griffin) 'Pakistan 2001', 292; 360 Jordan: in art. '~iddle East & Hammond, Patch: in art. 'ElNiiio', 50 North Africa 1999-2002', 267 Haston, Dougal: 9, 190 Jungfrau: in Terry Gifford's poem 'A Hillary, Sir Edmund: 4, 18, 23 ~onk between Hell and Heaven', Hillary, Peter: 18-19 177 Himachal Pradesh: art. 'Climbing in the ~iyar Nala', 54; 284 (8611m): 292 Himalaya: arts. 'Ama Dablam', 18, : 6, 7 'Nilkanth West Ridge', 23, 'Climb­ Kapadia, Harish: art. 'India2001', 275; ing in the ~yar nala, Himachal 43, and Arganglas 2001 expedition, Pradesh', 54, 'Kedar Dome on 305,360 Ski', 92, 'A Lateral Approach : arts. 'Baintha Brakk: The to Himalaya', 132, 'The Pundits ~erciful ~an-Eater', 13, and the Pamirs', 222, 'India 2001', 'Yamandaka', 43, 'Pakistan 2001', 275; 305, 306 (and see Garhwal, 292; 148,243,289-290, and India, Ladakh, , ). Arganglas 2001 expedition, 305, 307 Hogg, Quintin ~cGare1, PC, KG, CH, (and see Pakistan) FRS (Baron Hailsham ofSt. Kedar Dome: art. 'Kedar Dome on ~arylebone) (1907-2001): obituary Ski', 92 by JH Emlyn Jones, 332. Plate 57 Kennedy, ~e: 19 Holmes ~C, Sir Peter (1932-2002): Kennedy, Stephen: 308 obituary by ~e Binnie, 340. Knott, Paul: in art. 'Adventures in the Plate 59 ~aasheyValley', 95, art. 'Russia and Horsman, Stuart: art. 'Peaks, Politics Central Asia 2001',255; 309, 361 and Purges: the First Ascent of Pik Kurtyka, Voytek: 9 Stalin', 199; 360 Houlding, Leo: art. 'El Niiio', 50; 360 Ladakh: 43,287, and Arganglas 2001 Howard, Tony: art. '~dd1e East & expedition, 305 North Africa 1999-2002', 267; 360 Lawford, Bob: 5 368 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2002

Ledeboer, Peter (1918-2001): 5, obit. Mount Everest: in Valedictory by PS Boulter, 339. Plate 58 Address, 1 Leech, Richard: 298 Mount Everest Foundation: arts. Lhasa: 72 'Changing Fashions in Expedition Littlejohn, Pat 9 Grants', 144, 'MEF Expedition Longland, Jack: 196 Reports 2001', 297 Lovatt, Jerry: in 'Correspondence', Mountaineering Literature: 149 15th Festival of, 354 Lowe, George: 4 Mozambique: 309 Lowther, Jim: and Arganglas 2001 Muir, John: art. 'John Muir: His expedition, 305 Contribution as a Mountaineering Lucas, Enric: 9 Writer', 161 Lunn Arnold: art. 'Arnold Lunn', Muir, Stewart: 308 216. Plate 51 Muni, Divyesh: and Arganglas 2001 Lyall, Alan: in 'Correspondence', expedition, 305 149 Nakamura, Tamotsu: art. 'The Alps Maashey Valley: art. 'Adventures in ofTibet', 61; 75, 361 the Maashey Valley', 95 Nanda Devi Sanctuary: 275 Mailiinder, Nicholas: his translation of Nankervis, John: 306 art. 'Baintha Brakk: The Merciful National Mountaineering Exhibition: Man-Eater', 13 at the Rheged Centre, Penrith, 169 Manica, Mario: art. (with Antonella Nepal: 1, art. 'Ama Dablam', 18; 306 Cicogna) 'Climbing in Miyar Nala, Nilkanth (6596m): art. 'Nilkanth West Himachal Pradesh', 54 Ridge', 23; 282-3 Marshall, Jimmy: 190 Nisbet, Andy: 23 Masherbrum (7821m): 293 Notes for Contributors: 371 Matterhorn disaster, The: art. 'From Noussan, Efisio (1921-2001): the Archives', 237 obituary by Mike Esten, 334. McIntyre, Alec: 9 Plate 60 McNaught-Davis, Ian: 189 Noyce, Wilfrid: 189 Mear, Roger: 7 Meijer, Miriam Claude: in 'Corres- pondence', 149 Obituaries: Merz,Johanna: 361 Quintin McGarel Hogg, PC, KG, Messner, Reinhold: 2, 9, 19 CH, FRS (Baron Hailsham ofSt. M6nch: in Terry Gifford's poem 'A Marylebone) 1907-2001,332 Monk between Hell and Heaven', IanSeafieldGrant 1931-2001,333 177, in art. 'The M6nch in Winter', Efisio Noussan 1921-2001, 334 178 Charles Edward Johnstone : Correspondence, 149; Crawford 1912-2001,335 207,219 Harold Flook 1909-2000,337 Moran, Martin: art. 'Nilkanth West Frederick Charles Brooks Ridge', 23; 361 1902-2001,338 Morocco: arts. 'Climbing in the Atlas Peter Ledeboer 1918-2001,339 Mountains: A Survey', 81, 'Middle Sir Peter Holmes, MC 1932-2002, East & NorthAfrica 1999-2002',267 340 INDEX 369

John Byam-Grounds 1917-2000, Rouse, Alan: 9,196 342 Rowland, Clive: 13 Bryan Leolin Richards, G.M. 1909­ Russell, C A: art. 'One Hundred 2001,344 Years Ago', 240; 362 Colin Day 1934-2001,345 Russia and Central Asia: arts. 'Adventures in the Maashey Valley' , Ogre, The: in art. 'Baintha Brakk: The 95, 'Peaks, Politics and Purges: the Merciful Man-Eater', 13; 294 First Ascent of Pik: Stalin', 199, Oman and the Emirates: in art. 'Russia and Central Asia 2001',255; 'Middle East & North Africa 1999­ 148,208,243 2002',267 Ruthven, Bill: art. 'Changing Fash­ ions in Expedition Grants', 144; Pakistan: art. 'Pakistan 2001', 292; summary: MEF Expedition 307 (and see Karakoram) Reports, 297; 362 Pamir: arts. 'Peaks, Politics and Purges: the First Ascent of Pik: Saunders, Victor: 9 Stalin', 199, 'The Pundits and the Scott, Doug: Valedictory Address, 1; Pamirs', 222; 256 13,17,362 Pamir Alai: 257 Shauer, Robert: 9 Parks, Nick: in art. 'Kedar Dome on Shergold, Oliver: 298 Ski', 92 Shipton, Eric: 189, 193 Parnell, lan: in art. 'Fathers and Shivling (6543m): in art. 'Kedar Dome Sons', 37; 9, 299,361 on Ski', 92; 277-8, Plate:.front cover. Parrot, Friedrich: in art. 'Ararat: and Russian Far East: 259 Another Controversial First Ski Club ofGreat Britain: 221 Ascent', 207 Smith, Robin: 190 Patagonia: and South Tower ofPaine Somervell, Howard: 195 expedition 2001, 300 Spantik (7027m): 294 Patey, Tom: 192 Spitsbergen: art. 'An Arctic Peck, Edward: art. 'Ararat: Another Odyssey', 108 Controversial First Ascent', 207; Stalin, Pik: in art. 'Peaks, Politics 161,361 and Purges: the First Ascent of Pik Perkins, Andy: 9 Stalin', 199 Pigott, Fred: 195 Starbuck, John: art. 'An Arctic Preston, Jonathan: 23 Odyssey', 108; 362 Stephens, Rebecca: 4 Rakaposhi (7788m): 295 Stacker, Urs: art. 'Baintha Brakk: The Rawlinson, Anthony: 197 Merciful Man-Eater', 13; 362 Renshaw, Dick: in art. 'The Manch Stone, Peter B: art. 'The Fight for in Winter', 178 Mountain Environments', 117; 362 Richards GM, Bryan Leolin (1909­ Stump, Mugs: 37 2001): obituary by JH Emlyn Susted, Steve: 9 Jones,344 Swindin, Les: art. 'Turning Back the Richardson, Simon: art. 'Scottish Clock', 181; 362 Winter 2000-2001',261; 361 Swiss Alpine Club: 2 Richey, Mark: in art. 'Yamandaka', 43, and Arganglas 2001,305 370 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2002

Tasker, Joe: 9 Ward, Michael: and Ama Dablam Taylor, Colin: 195 first ascent, 18, art. 'The Pundits Templeman, Geoffrey: Book Reviews and the Pamirs', 222, his review of compiled by, 310, Obituaries com­ the journal High Altitude Medicine piled by, 331; 362 and Biology by John B West, 320; Thomas, Louise: and South Tower 363 of Paine expedition 2001, 300 Whillans, Don: 192 Tibet: arts. 'The Alps of Tibet', 61, Wilford, Mark: art. 'Yamandaka', 43, 'Upper Kongpo Without a Paddle', and Arganglas 2001,305; 363 72, 'The Pundits and the Pamirs', Wilkinson, Dave: art. 'The Monch in 222;306 Winter', 178; 308, 363 Tien Shan: 257 Wilson, Ken: 160, 196 Tilman, H W: 189, 196 Wolf, Iwan: in art. 'Baintha Brakk: Town, John: art. (with Derek Buckle) The Merciful Man-Eater', 13 'UpperKongpo Without a Paddle', Wrangham, Ted: 191 72;363 Wynne-Jones, Dave: his review ofthe Tunstall, Duncan: 23 15th Festival of Mountaineering Turner, Mike ('Twid'): and South Literature, 354 Tower of Paine expedition 200I, 300 Yamandaka: art. 'Yamandaka', 43; 290,305. Plates 22,23 UIAA: in art. 'Human Rights and Yates, Simon: 300 Access Freedorns: Is Nature a Missing Link?', 139 Unsworth, Wait: art. 'A Brief History of Mountain Illustration', 155; 363

Venab1es, Stephen: his review of Hennann Buh/ - Climbing without Compromise by Reinho1d Messner and Horst Hofler, 310 Venezuela: art. 'Cerro Autana, Venezula',31