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Weaving A Treasured Kentucky Handicraft Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Handicraft vs. Handcraft • Handicraft (noun) = the skill or trade of making decorative or useful objects by hand; or object made by hand • “The handicraft of weaving should be preserved.” • Handcraft (noun) = variant of handicraft • “These handcrafts are very valuable.” • Handcraft (verb) = to engage in making a hand-made item • “We will handcraft the scarves with our knitting needles.” Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Weaving is almost as old a human civilization • Remnants dating back to 5000 B.C. have been found in Egypt • Cotton and linen textiles dating 2500 B.C. have also been found in the Middle East • The Old Testament even identified three types of weavers: • Plain weavers • Multicolor weavers • Art weavers Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Early fibers used in spun yarns for weaving cloth • Hemp • Raffia • Leaf fibers • Hair • Wool • Strips of animal hide • Fur Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Colonial America • European settlers brought looms and patterns to America • Linen was the most abundant fiber used for clothing and household use • Use of wool fiber began after Merino sheep were imported from Spain in the 19th century Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Woven Coverlets • Most common of the textiles that remain from the 1800s • Woven on a simple loom • Illustrated a high level of craftsmanship • Overshot weaving technique • Scandinavian and European origins Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Kentucky’s Appalachian Mountains • Weaving was a daily activity prior to the Industrial Revolution • Arts and Craft Revival in the 1890s • Berea College • Fireside Industries • Anna Emberg hired in 1911 and served a superintendent for 25 years • Settlement Schools • Pine Mountain • Hindman Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Churchill Weavers • Founded in 1922 and continued for 85 years • Employed local weavers from Berea and the surrounding area • At its peak they had as many as 150 looms • Supplied retailers across the nation and internationally in Europe and Asia with hand woven items • The Kentucky Historical Society now houses The Churchill Weavers collection of 32,000 fabric samples Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Rebecca Boone Carriage Throw Overshot Weaving Technique Photo Courtesy of the Kentucky Historical Society, a part of the Churchill Weaver’s Collection Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Coverlet woven by Churchill Weavers features a combination of twill and plain weaves Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Lou Tate Bousman (1906-1979) • Simply known as Lou Tate, she was born in Bowling Green and later moved to Louisville. • Attended Berea College and the University of Michigan • Developed the “Little Loom” to teach weaving • Opened the “Little Loomhouse” in 1938 in Louisville • The Lou Tate Foundation continues to operate and ensure the history of weaving and textiles arts is kept alive. Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us The “Little Loom” pictured above. Picture on the right shows Lou Tate and Eleanor Roosevelt admire a woven coverlet at the Little Loom House in Louisville. Photos courtesy of the littleloomhouse.org Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Break for Learning Activity 1 Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Basic Weaving Diagrams Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave Basket Weave Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Basic Knitting Diagrams (stockinette stitch) Front side Reverse side Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Types of Hand Weaving Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Plain Weave Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Placemat features Overshot weave Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Bookmark Woven on an Inkle Loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Loom Weaving Design controlled by the weaver Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Rag Rug Plain Weave Woven on a 4-harness floor loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Huck Weaving Surface weaving on Huck toweling Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Tapestry Weaving on a box loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Pin Loom Weaving Animal made by stitching woven swatches together Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Break for Learning Activity 2 Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Types of Looms Used for Hand Weaving Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Rigid Heddle Loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Flip Loom Rigid Heddle Loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Inkle Loom with thread heddles Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Inkle Loom with cards for controlling weaving design Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us 8-Harness Wolf Loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Tapestry Looms Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Table Loom with 4 hand levers to raise each shaft/harness Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Table Loom with 8 hand levers to raise each shaft/harness Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Countermarche Floor Loom Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Pin Loom This example is a 4”x 4” square with a 6” long needle Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Pin Loom https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2010/01/25/create-intricate-fabric-with-pin-weaving Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Tools Used for Hand Weaving Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Boat Shuttle Used for holding the weft yarns for weaving Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Weaving Draft Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Warping Board Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Weaving Needles Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Break for Learning Activity 3 Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us There are a multitude of weaving resources on the internet that demonstrate how to weave on the various looms or use other hand weaving techniques. Be sure to visit local establishments that promote weaving. Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Questions? Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us For an information on Inkle Loom weaving go to this link: https://www.thebeginningartist.com/inkle-loom-weaving-beginners/ https://www.ashford.co.nz/images/download_pdfs/learn_to/learn_to_weave_on_the_inkle_loom.pdf For information on Pin Loom weaving, check out these links: https://handwovenmagazine.com/weaving-on-a-pin-loom/ https://www.mielkesfiberarts.com/pin-loom-weaving-a-photo-tutorial/ http://www.pinloomweaving.com/p/blog-page.html https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2010/01/25/create-intricate-fabric-with-pin-weaving For an explanation of overshot weaving go to this link Overshot Handbook by Madelyn van der Hoogt: http://magazines.interweave.com.s3.amazonaws.com/cdtv/January%202015/Overshot%20handbook.pdf Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Sources and Additional Reading: https://thevintagetraveler.wordpress.com/2019/09/04/fireside-industries-handwovens-in- berea-kentucky/ https://www.appalachianhistory.net/2014/08/churchill-weavers-berea-ky.html http://littleloomhouse.org Broomfield, S. S. (2006). Weaving Social Change: Berea College Fireside Industries and Reform in Appalachia https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/297/ Held, S. E. (1978). Weaving, A Handbook of the Fiber Arts, Saunders College. Tate, L. (1938). Kentucky Coverlets https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/monographs/tl_kcov.pdf Wilson, K. C. (2001). Textile Art from Southern Appalachia: the quiet work of women. The Overmountain Press. Kentucky Cooperative Extension It starts with us Many of the photos were taken at The Woolery in Frankfort, Kentucky by the original author, others were taken at her home or office. Original Author Marjorie M. Baker, M.S. Extension Associate for Clothing and Textiles December 2019 Revising Author Jeanne Badgett Senior Extension Associate for Clothing and Textiles May 2020 .
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