American Restaurant Culture and the Rise of the Middle Class, 1880-1920
TURNING THE TABLES: AMERICAN RESTAURANT CULTURE AND THE RISE OF THE MIDDLE CLASS, 1880-1920 by Andrew Peter Haley BA, Tufts University, 1991 MA, University of Pittsburgh, 1997 Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of Arts and Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Pittsburgh 2005 UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH FACULTY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES This dissertation was presented by Andrew Peter Haley It was defended on May 26, 2005 and approved by Dr. Paula Baker, History, The Ohio State University Co-Dissertation Director Dr. Donna Gabaccia, History, University of Pittsburgh Co-Dissertation Director Dr. Richard Oestreicher, History, University of Pittsburgh Dr. Carol Stabile, Communications, University of Pittsburgh Dr. Bruce Venarde, History, University of Pittsburgh ii © Andrew Peter Haley iii TURNING THE TABLES: AMERICAN RESTAURANT CULTURE AND THE RISE OF THE MIDDLE CLASS, 1880-1920 Andrew Peter Haley, PhD University of Pittsburgh, 2005 This dissertation examines changes in restaurant dining during the Gilded Age and the Progressive Era as a means of understanding the growing influence of the middle- class consumer. It is about class, consumption and culture; it is also about food and identity. In the mid-nineteenth century, restaurants served French food prepared by European chefs to elite Americans with aristocratic pretensions. “Turning the Tables” explores the subsequent transformation of aristocratic restaurants into public spaces where the middle classes could feel comfortable dining. Digging deeply into the changes restaurants underwent at the turn of the century, I argue that the struggles over restaurant culture—the battles over the French-language menu, the scientific eating movement, the celebration of cosmopolitan cuisines, the growing acceptance of unescorted women diners, the failed attempts to eliminate tipping—offer evidence that the urban middle class would play a central role in the construction of twentieth-century American culture.
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