Ama Dablam Expedition 2021  2021 International Mountain Guides 22,494 feet • 6856 meters

Thanks for your interest in our 2021 Ama Dablam Expedition. This is Ama Dablam: Just The Facts one of the most famous and beautiful peaks in the world, rising above the Dudh Kosi River valley on the way to Everest Base Camp in . Summit: We’ve now conducted eleven successful guided Ama Dablam 22,494’ • 6856m expeditions and two more successful teams that we supported with logistics and Sherpas. We have had three great seasons in a row Set Your GPS: after giving the mountain a rest and allowing unstable ice on the 27°, 54' N • 86°, 50' E

Dablam to adjust. First Boot-Prints on Top: The first ascent was in March of 1961 Our 2021 Ama Dablam expedition will utilize the same model that has by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward worked so well for IMG over the years on Mt Everest. This means that & Wally Romanes via the southwest ridge. we will have both Classic (Sherpa guided) and Hybrid (western guided) teams. The Classic program is suitable for experienced You Should Still Bring a Jacket: climbers who can handle the technical climbing and altitude without The Jet Stream tends to stay well extra guidance. For climbers who are less experienced or less above Ama Dablam, so climbs aren’t as prone to long delays as on taller confident in their abilities, or would simply prefer additional guidance, neighboring peaks. the Hybrid Program would be the right decision. By Any Other Name: We plan a leisurely trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, with plenty of Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box. Ama (mother) refers to the time to focus on acclimating and familiarization with the terrain and mountain's long ridges stretching over technical challenges of the climb. We have added more contingency the valleys below like protective arms. days in the itinerary and crafted a slower and more deliberate Dablam is for the distinct hanging schedule for the ascent with more rest and acclimatization days. This glacier on the southwest face which looks like the traditional deity will also allow more flexibility. For example, some climbers may pendants worn by Sherpa women. decide to go to the summit from Camp 2, while others might opt to spend a night in the higher Camp 2.7 or Camp 3. We want to give Because It’s There, but Also...: everyone the best chance to reach the top, and we know everyone The appeal of Ama Dablam is not so much the height as the dramatic climbs at a different rate. beauty, universally recognized difficulty (with some slopes at 45 to 50 For climbers doing pre-acclimatization or coming to Ama Dablam from degrees,) and… Cho Oyu, Putha Hiunchuli, or other mountains, we are happy to Location, Location, Location: discuss other options. Let us know how we can put together a Five of the world’s six highest package for you that will meet your requirements. Ready to sign up! mountains are visible from the summit of Ama Dablam. We look forward to hearing from you!

Greg Vernovage Himalayan Program Director [email protected]

“If I had to sum up what impressed me the most, I would have to say that it was never once in the entire trip, did I ever feel like IMG or its people ever cut a corner on anything. Everything was a class act, well organized, and people really seemed thrilled and enthusiastic about being a part of something great...” —Jeff

For more comments from IMG climbers, please see our website at: www.mountainguides.com/comments.shtml 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 2 of 8

2021 Ama Dablam Autumn Expedition Tentative Itinerary

Date Ama Dablam Monday, October 18, 2021 Arrive Tuesday, October 19, 2021 In Kathmandu Wednesday, October 20, 2021 Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding Thursday, October 21, 2021 Trek to Namche Friday, October 22, 2021 Namche Saturday, October 23, 2021 Sunday, October 24, 2021 Pangboche Monday, October 25, 2021 Pheriche Tuesday, October 26, 2021 Pheriche Wednesday, October 27, 2021 Chukkung Thursday, October 28, 2021 Climb Chukkung Ri Friday, October 29, 2021 Ama Dablam Base Camp Saturday, October 30, 2021 Ama Dablam Base Camp Sunday, October 31, 2021 Ama Dablam Base Camp Monday, November 1, 2021 Climb to Intermediate Camp Tuesday, November 2, 2021 Climb to Camp 1, sleep IC Wednesday, November 3, 2021 Camp 1 Thursday, November 4, 2021 Climb to C2, return to Camp 1 Friday, November 5, 2021 Base camp Saturday, November 6, 2021 Base camp Sunday, November 7, 2021 Base camp Monday, November 8, 2021 Camp 1 Tuesday, November 9, 2021 Camp 2 Wednesday, November 10, 2021 Camp 3 Thursday, November 11, 2021 Summit and back to Camp 2 Friday, November 12, 2021 Base Camp Saturday, November 13, 2021 Rest day Sunday, November 14, 2021 Contingency day Monday, November 15, 2021 Contingency day Tuesday, November 16, 2021 Contingency day Wednesday, November 17, 2021 Contingency day Thursday, November 18, 2021 Contingency day Friday, November 19, 2021 Return trek to Namche Saturday, November 20, 2021 Return trek to Lukla Sunday, November 21, 2021 Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 3 of 8

Program Fees and Payment Schedule

Ama Dablam HYBRID climb $16,000 Ama Dablam CLASSIC climb $11,000 October 18 – November 21, 2021 October 18 – November 21, 2021

Costs included in trip fee: • Transfers for international flights airport-hotel-airport • Transfers for domestic flights hotel-airport-hotel • Double occupancy hotels in Kathmandu for stated itinerary at beginning of the expedition • All permit fees • Liaison Officer • Lukla fixed wing flight (roundtrip) including two duffels per person • Complete trek service staying in lodges including meals (B/L/D) • Complete base camp service including cooks and asst cooks • Individual sleeping tents and mattresses at BC (Climbers will share tents above Base Camp) • Group dining tent • Access to medical gear • Emergency O2 & Gamow bag • Base Camp radio and walkie talkies • Satellite phone available for $3.00/minute • Sherpa support while climbing

Costs not included in trip fee: • Flights from home to and from Kathmandu • Travel expenses and hotels before the stated itinerary and in the event of unforeseen circumstances including weather delays • Single supplement accommodations in hotels • Hotels in Kathmandu at conclusion of expedition (we can assist making reservations) • Personal gear • Excess baggage charges • Airport taxes and visas • Sherpa tip pool (we suggest $500 per climber) • Satellite telephone air charges • Personal sundries and beverages • Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of IMG • **Required Travel Insurance (medical, evacuation, trip cancellation, etc.) • Customary but optional tips for IMG staff.

**REQUIRED Travel Insurance: IMG requires that all participants on International programs purchase Travel Insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation, repatriation and medical expenses for the duration of their IMG program. We strongly recommend that you add Trip Cancellation coverage to your policy to cover cancellation (before trip starts) or interruption (after trip starts). More info: mountainguides.com/travel-insurance.shtml . If you need assistance with the various insurance options, give Becky Kjorvestad a call in the IMG Office (360 569 2609) or email [email protected]. Note on end dates: Please extend your insurance policy to cover your trip until you return to your home country.

Single Supplement $500: Includes single room in the hotel in Kathmandu for stated itinerary at the beginning of the trip and lodges on the trek. Please advise IMG and we will adjust your statement. Deadline for reserving a single supplement accommodation is July 14, 2021.

Tips: We will collect for a tip pool and ask the Ama Dablam climbers to please contribute $500. We will collect this in Kathmandu and distribute this after the trip on behalf of the team as a thank you gift to the many unsung people that make the whole operation run smoothly: the porters, trek staff, cooks and helpers, hotel staff, Kathmandu staff, climbing Sherpas, and others. You may also wish to provide additional tip to your Sherpas and IMG staff.

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 4 of 8

Sign up here for the Ama Dablam Expedition. To get you confirmed we’ll need IMG Forms 1,2,3,4, copy of passport, and the Application Fee. Form 5 Physician’s Certificate will be due 60 days prior departure.

Payment Schedule With Application $1,000 April 14, 2021 $3,000 July 14, 2021 Balance

All IMG program fees are quoted in US dollars. All fees and payments are non-refundable and non- transferable. Payments must be received by IMG on or before the due dates noted above. Failure to submit payments on or before these due dates will result in forfeiture of fees paid and loss of program reservation. Our bank does not charge for incoming bank wires, however, please include wire fees charged by your bank or correspondent banks.

Air Travel International Mountain Guides has worked for many years with Ms. Pirjo Dehart and her staff at CTT Destinations to provide professional travel service for participants in our programs. We urge you to contact CTT Destinations at 800/909-6647 or [email protected] for help with your plans.

The view from Camp 2 looking south down the Valley

Expedition Organization and Leadership

International Mountain Guides (“IMG”) IMG is the oldest and most respected high-altitude climbing service in the world and its three principals, Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, have led and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide since 1975. IMG’s Himalayan mountaineering programs are organized and directed by Greg Vernovage. IMG has conducted over 60 Himalayan expeditions with a group of guides and Sherpas who are the best in the business. Since 1990, over 800 IMG team members have summited the world’s classic 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.

Ang Jangbu and the IMG Sherpa Team A veteran of dozens of expeditions and an Everest summiter, Ang Jangbu has worked on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. Ang Jangbu Sherpa and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG. We are proud to have a group of Sherpas working for us who are among the best paid, best led, best equipped, and best trained in the business.

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 5 of 8

References Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you’re considering another climb with us. For those of you who haven’t climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past customers. When you’re ready to make the decision, we’ll be happy to provide you with a complete list of references.

IMG’s Ama Dablam Philosophy Our goal is to safely help as many team members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the people and equipment that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premiere international climbing company, and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own high standards. If you would like to join a world-class team on Ama Dablam, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our expedition!

Difficulty How hard is Ama Dablam? You need to have solid rock-climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. You’ll be jumaring on fixed ropes. There are several short, steep sections of near vertical ice and rock on the spectacular ridge between Camp 1 and Camp 3 that require strength and technique. Up high on Ama Dablam climbers need to be ready for very cold temperatures and wind, so proper equipment is critical. Most importantly, you need good common sense and the ability to learn and adapt. On Ama Dablam climbers typically do not rope up to each other, but instead ascend and descend using fixed ropes. This allows climbers to move together but at the same time be semi- independent on the mountain between camps. We provide walkie-talkies to our climber/Sherpa teams so they can stay in contact with each other and the IMG staff who are available for consultation.

Expedition Logistics The Sherpas will be deployed differently at different times during the climb for the best advantage of the team. When the climbers are down low, most of the Sherpas will be working on fixing rope, building camps, and carrying loads. As the climbing team moves up higher on the mountain, the Sherpas will be assigned to climb in support of the climbers.

Express/Custom Itineraries If you are interested in an abbreviated itinerary or a custom program, we are happy to discuss various options with you. Please contact Greg directly ([email protected]) to discuss this further.

“After preparing for many months (and years, really) to pursue the dream of climbing big peaks in the , I was encouraged to know that the IMG team had prepared even harder than me... The logistics and equipment were first rate... The guides' and the Sherpas' prior Himalayan experience was extremely valuable, and proved to be the difference in having a successful summit bid during a difficult weather season …” —Tom R.

For more comments from IMG climbers, please see our website at: www.mountainguides.com/comments.shtml

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 6 of 8

Things to Consider

Climbing high peaks in the Himalaya is serious business. I am proud of the way we conduct ourselves, and I think we provide the best package available. I encourage you to contact me to discuss in person all the details of our programs. We know we’re not the cheapest deal around, and we don’t want to be. We spend more providing the best personnel, equipment, logistics and safety measures – things that many lower-cost programs cannot afford and do not have. We don’t cut corners. As you shop around, consider the following:

• IMG leaders are professionals and are great teachers as well as strong climbers. All have done numerous high-altitude expeditions, including the Himalaya. Our clients enjoy the immense benefit of their leadership skill and expertise. We do not think you will find any other Ama Dablam climbing or trekking programs that will be led or staffed by persons of the caliber we will field for Ama Dablam. We challenge you to try! • IMG always complies with all local, state, federal, and international regulations for the countries in which we climb. This includes proper visas and climbing permits, full insurance and equipment for our employees and Sherpa support teams, and complete adherence to all environmental regulations. Our great safety record allows us to operate with full liability insurance. All client funds are deposited in a regulated trust account. We take our business seriously! • IMG Sherpas are top-notch. We hire the same great Sherpas every year, we treat them with respect, we pay them well and they like working with our teams. Most of them have been on many climbs with us over the years and many of them have multiple Ama Dablam summits. Many of them are now graduates of the Alex Lowe Sherpa Climbing School. Our enthusiastic cooks do a great job and our menus are well considered. It makes a difference! • IMG itineraries are longer than most others offered on the market. We know how to acclimatize properly, and we don’t rush. • IMG brings advanced technology to the mountain. We have both VHF and satellite communication. Solar power at Base Camp quietly supports our satellite communications, allowing us to maintain excellent emergency contact capabilities and keep friends and family informed of our progress during the long weeks away from home. IMG will post regular internet dispatches and/or send regular e mail updates to keep friends and families appraised of the climbers’ progress.

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 7 of 8

Ama Dablam Personal Equipment Checklist

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for Ama Dablam. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by our IMG Guide Team. Don’t cut corners on the quality of your gear.

Once you are confirmed on the roster, we will be sending Newsletters with a more comprehensive gear list with tips for each piece of equipment.

Climbing Gear • Ice Axe • 12-point Crampons • Climbing Harness • Climbing Helmet • Hardware: o 3 locking carabiners o 4 lightweight regular carabiners/ it is helpful if at least one of the locking carabiners has a "key gate", like the Petzl Attache. o Ascender with handle o Petzl Tibloc o 2 sewn 48" nylon slings o 10' of 8 mm perlon cord o 1 small 5 mm prussik loop o Black Diamond ATC Guide is good since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. o Figure 8 • Climbing Backpack: 70L • Sleeping Bag rated to -20F • Sleeping Pads

Camp Accessories • Headlamp with extra batteries • Water Bottles X 2 • Water Bottle Insulators • Water Treatment: Iodine tablets (Potable Aqua or similar) or iodine crystals (Polar Pure) or Steripen with extra batteries • Insulated Cup, Bowl, Spoon • Lighter

Footwear • Double Climbing Boots with expedition liners or Triple boots • Overboots • Approach boots • Gaiters and Yaktrax or Kahtoola Microspikes • Socks: Four sets of climbing socks.

Clothing • Insulated Parka: 800 Fill Down • Insulated Pants: Down or Synthetic Pants with full length zippers are required for this climb • *Down Suit: You may elect to wear a down suit on summit day instead of Down or Synthetic pants • Shell Jacket • Goretex Pants • Mid Layers • Climbing Pants • Base Layers: - 2 synthetic tops and 1 bottom

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 2021 IMG Ama Dablam Expedition page 8 of 8

Outerwear Accessories • Mittens: 8000-meter mittens • Expedition Weight Gloves • Light Gloves • Leather gloves or good abrasion resistant climbing glove for the rock sections • Winter Beanie • Neck Gaiter and/or a Buff • Baseball hat and Bandana • Sleeping Pad or Thermarest Personal Accessories • Eyewear: Glacier glasses with side protection. • Goggles x 2: One Dark Pair and one pair clear or yellow/orange tinted • Vision correction • Wrist Watch • Basic First Aid • Sunblock-at least #30 protection factor • Garbage Bags: 2 or 3 large plastic bags make great liners for your pack in wet weather. • Personal Snack Food-not more than 5 pounds • iPhone and Kindle • Pee Bottle • Chemical Hand Warmers x 6 Travel Items • Duffel Bags x 2 • Daypack • Travel Wallet • Passport • Camera • Casual Clothes • Bathing Suit Trekking Gear • Trekking Poles • Backpack • Pack Cover • 5 large plastic garbage bags to pack gear inside duffels to protect gear from rain • Trekking Clothes • Lightweight Approach Boots Immunizations Checklist • Tetanus-Diphtheria - You should already have. Do you need a booster? • Polio -You should already have. Do you need a booster? • MMR -You should already have. Do you need a booster? • Meningitis - Recommended. Consult your physician. • Hepatitis A - Recommended. Consult your physician. • Hepatitis B - Not a bad idea. Ask your physician. • Cholera - Ask your physician. Not usually recommended any more. • Typhoid - Not a bad idea to be safe. The tablet form, Vivotif Berna, is good for five years. • Rabies - The new vaccine is easy. Rabid animals are occasionally encountered in Nepal. • Malaria – Not necessary unless you plan on traveling, for example, to certain parts of Thailand before/after the trip…then malaria chemoprophylaxis is recommended (we suggest Malarone)

We recommend that you visit the travel clinic at a major University Hospital or your local Public Health Department for the most up to date info on travel requirements, or check the Center for Disease Control Website at www.cdc.gov

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455