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A Visitor's Guide to Big Bend National Park AISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOand Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River PPPPVOL. XXIII NO.1 SPRING 2002 FREE

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NON-PROFIT ORG. PERMIT NO. 0001 Big Bend National Park is much more than just precipitous canyons, Rare Bats ...... 7

[email protected] spectacular mountains, and rugged vistas. It is also more than merely Touring Guide...... 8 a destination for camping and hiking. For many life forms, Big Bend Hiking Big Bend...... 9 National Park means life itself. Protected within park boundaries, some of these rare species find their last resort for survival. Cactus Rustlers...... 10 In this issue of the Big Bend Paisano, we get to know a few of these Backcountry...... 13 special species, and along the way, reaffirm the priceless importance Safety Tips...... 14 of our National Parks. Map/Phone #s.....15 TheTheThe BigBigBig BendBendBend

"Spanish for Roadrunner"

Orienting and Educating Visitors to Big Bend National Park AISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOand the Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River PPVOL. XXIII NO. 1 SPRING 2002 FREE P been conspicuously absent from PPPP Montezuma quail, or “Fool” quail, it had already disappeared the Chisos Mountains. A Fool's from the El Paso region by 1883. Lingering over the last few By 1901, it was fading from Cen- sips of coffee, reluctant to leave tral Texas. By the 1930s the “Fool” the parade of birds appearing in quail was already rare in the the yard, I spy one, then two, then Tale Chisos Mountains. By the 1960s, more scaled quail. One lone bird tional in spite of almost 20 years of “pro- makes a tentative approach to park, in- tection” in a national park, it was water, the rest waiting under cluding apparently gone from the Big cover. Finally, all make the break Mexi- Bend and confined to the Davis and come to drink. Watching can Mountains of Jeff Davis County, from the window, for a moment species and the Glass and Del Norte I see not the little “cottontops,” seldom seen anywhere else in Mountains of northern Brewster but rather the boldly patterned the United States. For research- County. In the early 1970’s, orni- Harlequin. But in a blink, they are ers, the park offers a natural thologist Harry Oberholser was gone. Just as surely gone as the laboratory in which to study moved to write, “In Texas, the Mexican gray wolf, the desert the intricate relationships be- Harlequin quail has almost bighorn sheep, the aplomado fal- using over morning cof- tween the birds and their envi- reached that great destination of con, and others unknown. A grim Mfee as another day begins, ronment. For birds, the park of- all earthly life: extinction." thought, but…Mexican gray I look out the window into the fers refuge and shelter in a world The reasons for the quail’s wolves are being returned to New back yard and silently greet each where large tracts of unaltered disappearance have been debated Mexico, aplomado falcons fly bird that comes in for a drink of habitat are rapidly disappearing. over the years, but most certainly again over the Texas coastal plain, water and a morning bath. Shy habitat change and bighorns are settling in next Pyrrhuloxia, bold cactus wren, ...some threads of the tapestry that is from human door at the state Black Gap wild- darting canyon towhee, furtive Big Bend can, and do, break. disturbance is life area. Perhaps one day the little scaled quail, all year-round resi- at the root. The “Fool” quail will again haunt the dents, all well-known neigh- In recognition of the park’s di- quail requires open juniper/oak dry hillsides of the Chisos Moun- bors. Now a yellow-rumped versity of bird species, and its op- woodlands and a ground cover tains. warbler, a nervous ruby- portunities for education and of tall bunch grasses. Unlike other by Park Ranger crowned kinglet, several pale conservation through research, quail, the Montezuma digs Mark Flippo Brewer’s sparrows, a herd of the American Bird Conservancy for tubers and bulbs bossy white-crowned spar- last year named Big Bend as a Glo- in deep, dry soil, and rows, birds of winter and har- bally Important Bird Area. seldom flies or runs bingers of the coming spring. An important aspect of the when threatened. Soon the migrants will grace the IBA program is that it helps em- Instead it relies trees and bushes busily fueling phasize conservation issues spe- on its cryptic up for the next jump to the north. cific to each site. In the Big Bend coloration to With them will come the birds of region, air pollution, degraded hide, crouching “Impor- summer, the travelers whose water quality and quantity in the silently until the tant Bird journey north ends in Big Bend, Rio Grande, and the invasion of last second, then Areas are who will nest and produce an- exotic plant and animal species exploding from the places of in- other generation before they have direct impacts on wildlife ground in a flurry of head south again. I feel fortu- populations. With its overlay of wings. Of all the quail ternational nate. To live in an area where important designations, National species, the Montezuma is the significance for the natural cycles are preserved, to Park, Biosphere Reserve, and now most intolerant of habitat alter- conservation of birds be witness to the yearly move- Globally Important Bird Area, Big ation. ment of birds is a definite bonus Bend National Park is able to mus- In the 1970s, staff at Big Bend at the global, regional of my job. ter support and funding for re- National Park made an assess- or sub-regional level. For those who observe and search, monitoring, and protec- ment that some areas of the Chisos IBAs are a practical tool research birds, the value of a pro- tion of the resources in its charge. Mountains had recovered suffi- for conservation. Sites tected area like Big Bend Na- It would do us well to remem- ciently to provide habitat for the tional Park is profound. Cur- ber though, that even this effort is quail again. In 1973, 26 quail from must, wherever pos- rently the park’s checklist of birds not always enough, that some the Santa Rita Mountains in Ari- sible, be amenable to stands at 445 species, testimony threads of the tapestry that is Big zona were released in Pine Can- being conserved and to the park’s location along a ma- Bend can, and do, break. yon. Hopes were high. Surveys in to being delimited from jor migration route and to the In 1901 in the Chisos Moun- the years following the release lo- diversity of habitat types pro- tains, the great wildlife artist Louis cated small numbers of the quail surrounding areas, and tected here. Agassiz Fuertes, painted a portrait but by 1979, none were found. be large enough to sup- For birders, Big Bend offers of a singular little quail endemic to The last accepted sighting was in port viable populations the opportunity to see more the desert southwest. Known 1983. In the ensuing nearly twenty kinds of birds than any other na- variously as Mearn’s quail, years, Montezuma quail have of the species for which they are important.”

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 1 Credits Message From the Superintendent

Welcome Bienvenidos

Volume XXIII# 1 Spring 2002 Welcome to Big Bend National Park and Bienvenidos al Parque Nacional Big Bend The Big Bend Paisano, is published by the National the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River, two y el Silvestre y Escénico Río Grande, dos Park Service and the Big Bend Natural History As- unique areas of the U.S. National Park Sys- áreas únicas del sistema estadounidense de sociation for the orientation and education of visitors tem in the state of Texas. At over 800,000 parques nacionales dentro del estado de to Big Bend National Park. acres, Big Bend National Park encompasses Texas. Con un tamaño de más de 800,000 the largest protected area of the Chihuahuan acres, el Parque Nacional Big Bend encuadra National Park Service Desert in the United States. The Chihua- el área protegida más grande del desierto Editor, Tom VandenBerg, Park Ranger huan Desert is the largest Chihuahuense dentro de Chief Naturalist, Lisa Bigley on the North American los Estados Unidos. El continent, extending desierto Chihuahuense es Superintendent, Frank Deckert from Old Mexico to New el más grande de Norte Mexico. The Rio Grande América, extendiendo de Big Bend Natural is the major lifeline in this México a Nuevo México. desert and for 1,250 miles El Río Grande es la fuente History Association along the southern de vida de este desierto, y Executive Director, Mike Boren boundary of Texas, it sobre 1250 millas sirve Sales Manager, Sarah Bourbon forms the international como la frontera Assistant Sales Manager, Barbara Hines boundary between the internacional entre los Visitor Services Assistant, Anita Johnson United States and Mexico. Estados Unidos y One hundred ninety-six México. Ciento noventa miles of this section of the y seis millas de este río son Contributors Rio Grande have been designados como el Sharon Collyer, Joselyn Fenstermacher, designated as the Rio Superintendent Deckert Silvestre y Escénico Río Mark Flippo, Gail Fox, Mary Kay Manning, Grande Wild & Scenic Grande. Tom VandenBerg, Angelina Yost River. El verano en Big Bend siempre es un Spring in Big Bend is always a flurry of tiempo muy atareado. Las plantas florecen, activity. Plants are blooming, birds are mi- las aves migran, y los visitantes al parque The National Park Service was es- grating, and park visitors are streaming in vienen de todos estados. Durante sus tablished on August 25, 1916. . . from every state. During your explorations, exploraciones, recuerden que el parque “to conserve the scenery and the remember that Big Bend National Park is nacional Big Bend es mucho más que natural and historic objects and much more than merely campgrounds and campamentos y senderos. Para muchas the wildlife. . . and to provide for hiking trails. For many species, it is a vital especies, es un santuario vital donde se the enjoyment of the same in such manner and sanctuary where they are making a last stand mantienen en una lucha para sobrevivir. Con by such means as will leave them unimpaired at survival. In this issue we explore some of este número enfocamos en algunas de éstas for the enjoyment of future generations.” As these special life forms that make Big Bend especies que se hace a Big Bend uno de los conservation educators, the Division of Inter- one of the most diverse and fascinating of parques mas diversos y interesantes. pretation provides guided walks, talks, evening our National Parks. slide programs, workshops, and other educa- tional activities as well as written materials such as this newspaper. Frank J. Deckert Frank J. Deckert Park Superintendent Superintendente The Big Bend Natural History As- sociation, established in 1956 as a Each year, volunteers contribute thousands of hours to the National Park private, non-profit organization, Service. A vital supplement to paid staff, volunteers bring special skills, dedi- champions the mission of the Na- cation, and fresh approaches to our work in interpretation, visitor protection, tional Park Service in facilitating maintenance, administration, and resource management. popular interpretation of the scenic, scientific, Join us in thanking the following individuals and organizations who and historic values of Big Bend and encourages have recently donated 100 or more hours in volunteer service to Big Bend: research related to those values. The Associa- tion conducts seminars and publishes, prints, AmeriCorps-NCCC Mike & Susannah Laing Bernie & Fran Heyman or otherwise provides books, maps, and inter- Henry & Patty Banks Justin Goldwater Jack & Joan Lamkin pretive materials on the Big Bend region. Pro- Bill & Barbara Baldwin Richard & Kay Gordon Dan Leavitt ceeds fund exhibits, films, interpretive pro- Richard & Penny Barker Bob & Carol Huber Kathy Martinelli-Zaun grams, seminars, museum activities, and re- Jim Bogue Steve Harper Ed & Twyla Maxwell search. Will Bradley Ralph & Jackie Headlee Steve McAllister On matters relating to this publication write: Royce & Royann Brockett Jim & Ginny Herrick Heather McCarthy Charles & Sue Cottingham Bob Odess National Park Service, Editor, The Big Bend Paisano, P.O. Box 129, Big Bend National Park, TX Erwin & Sharon Drabek Les & Dana Over 79834 (915) 477-1196 [email protected] Jennifer Dyer Sophie Quinnell George & Harriet Tom & Dori Ramsay Eggleston Jessica Sherwood Subscribe Bob & Carol Schemm Jim & Frances Stewart $ 4.00 per year (3 issues) Wayne Strevel Name:______Meg Thomson Address:______Big Bend's 2002 City:______AMERICORPS-NCCC Crew State, Zip:______"Earth 5"

Mail check or money order payable to Big Bend Natural History Assoc. to The Big Bend Paisano, P.O. Box 196, Big Bend National Park, TX 79834. Or call (915) 477-2236.

Printed on recycled paper.

Page 2 The Big Bend PAISANO Big Bend Natural History Association

The Big Bend Natural History Association is a non-profit organization established to support the park's educational and scientific programs. BBNHA also publishes and distributes books, maps, guides, newspapers and other materials designed to enhance visitors' enjoyment and understanding of Big Bend National Park. After America was attacked on September October, visitors flocked to Big Bend, perhaps 11, 2001, many people involved with tourism as a place to collect their thoughts and ponder Big Bend feared that the public would not travel and what had happened. revenues would suffer. Here in Big Bend Na- Big Bend Natural History Association ap- Seminars tional Park we didn’t know what to think. plauds the American public and the heroes who Take A Closer Look! Would people travel less, or would have risen from their ranks to meet this people travel more domestically? challenge: the policemen, firefighters, Would our visitation be hurt or rescue workers, military personnel, would it increase? Would there be Border Patrol agents, National Park security fears because we share a Rangers, politicians, and, yes, even border with Mexico? the visitors to our parks. Our visitors Well, the answer is in, and the are more than our lifeblood; they are news is encouraging. Big Bend Natu- our friends and neighbors and fellow ral History Association operates the citizens. Their refusal to be cowered 2002 Seminar Schedule bookstores in all the visitor centers at by mad threats of violence tells me we Geology, Birding, Snakes, Wildflowers, Big Bend National Park and Amistad Na- are as good as we ever were and answers and Lions are some of the highlights of the tional Recreation Area, and our sales are up! once and for all any questions that may have 2002 Big Bend Seminars Program. Now in Revenues increased almost 35% in the lingered about the strength of diversity. its 14th year, the immensely popular pro- first quarter of our fiscal year (Octo- In this place, one need look no farther than gram conducted by BBNHA continues to ber through December) and both the desert which surrounds us to see that a di- grow and improve. This year, a total of 21 January and February sales are also verse community is a strong and resilient com- seminars in Big Bend National Park, and 2 at up over the same months last year. munity. In this nation one need look no farther Amistad National Recreation Area will be What a wonderfully diverse and than one’s neighbors to see that presented by experts in a variety of fields. resilient country we live in! In a coun- strength on display Big Bend National Park try wise enough to set aside natural wonderlands such as these for the en- April 5 Colors of Big Bend joyment of future generations, we now Dana Schoppa see a whole range of behaviors ex- Thanks for your generous support, April 6 Wildflowers John Mac Carpenter pressing optimism, not fear, and hope, Mike Boren April 7 Big Cats in Big Bend Executive Director not despair. Beginning even as soon as Gilbert Guzman April 14 Wildflowers John Mac Carpenter Featured Publications April 20 Trans-Pecos Reptiles Alan Tennant April 26-28 Desert Birds Surround yourself with the abundant and diverse natural and human Roland Wauer history of Big Bend. Our bookstores offer a wealth of books, maps, April 30-31 Cacti of Big Bend checklists, and field guides carefully selected to help you enjoy your Roland Wauer visit to Big Bend National Park. May 3-5 Desert Butterflies Roland Wauer Stop by any visitor center, or order these online at www.bigbendbookstore.org May 11-12 Birding Big Bend Kelly Bryan The Earth Speaks Bird Tracks & Sign May 18 Big Bend Bats Jana Higgenbotham Its voice is in the shape of a This richly-illustrated full-color guide— May 26 Desert Survival new leaf, the feel of a water- the first of its kind for North American TBA worn stone, the color of the birds—offers thor- Sept. 28-29 Birding Big Bend evening sky. That voice is ough and straight- Kelly Bryan October 12 Big Bend 101 captured here in the words forward instruc- Sam Richardson and images of those who tions for identifying November 9 Black Bears have listened with their bird families or spe- Raymond Skiles hearts, including Henry David Thoreau, cies by examination November 10 Tracking in the Desert John Muir, Rachel Carson, Edward Abbey, of the unique signs Billy Pat McKinney November 16 Geology Jeep Tour Aldo Leopold, and many others. $12.95 they leave in the wild. Bill Bourbon Includes tracks and November 17 Dinosaurs! Desert Ecology trails, nests, feathers, Anthony Fiorillo pellets, skull, and Amistad National Recreation Area Explore the life cycle of the yucca and more, $34.95 creosote bush, trace March 23-24 Archeology the wanderings of Joe Labadie May 4-5 Living off the Land the tenebrionid Dr. Phil Dering beetle, and breathe in Butterflies of the rhythms of the West Texas Parks Average cost for a seminar is $50 per day desert at night. This and Preserves book explores how with most seminars running 1-2 days. Class size is limited to 15 participants to ensure desert plants and ani- New from former Big individualized instruction. Seminar partici- mals live where they Bend Chief Naturalist pants may also take advantage of free camp- do—the physiologic Roland Wauer, this book ing in one of Big Bend's group campgrounds. and behavioral adap- describes and illustrates tations that enable the 50 most common but- To register for a seminar or to receive a plants and animals to terflies of the region with complete catalog , contact BBNHA at PO survive in such inhospitable places. Writ- glorious photographs, along with 11 “spe- Box 196, Big Bend National Park, TX, 79834 ten not for the specialist but for everyone. cialties” unique to the region. Includes a or call 915-477-2236. You may also e-mail $17.95 checklist. 78 pages $17.95 us at [email protected]

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 3 National Park News Help Us To Protect Your Falcons Falcon nesting Zones: Feb 1 - Jul 15 The jet-fighter of the bird the state's endangered shhh...nesting in progress world, a peregrine falcon wheels species list. Last year, only through the sky at speeds ap- seven young fledged • Casa Grande above 6,600' proaching 200 miles per hour from Big Bend nests. • Southeast Rim Trail and many park visitors hope Falcons are known to • Northeast Rim to campsite NE-4 for even a glimpse of this abandon active nests at • 1/4 mile of the Santa Elena Cyn Rim majestic aerialist. Once at the even the smallest • 1/4 mile of the Mariscal Canyon Rim brink of extinction, falcons amount of human dis- are staging a comeback in turbance. To ensure dis- many areas. In Texas, turbance-free nesting, the park however, there are less has temporarily closed certain ar- Peregrine than twelve nesting pairs, eas to all public entry. and the birds remain on Black Bear Genetics Official NPS A Family Affair Surf Big Bend Website When black bears naturally returned to Big Bend from Mexico in the late 1980s, there were many unanswered questions that arose. Live Web-cam Backcountry Which Mexican mountains did they come from? What population size Daily Weather Park Maps could the park hold? Were they all related? Was there enough genetic River Levels Press Releases diversity to ensure their longterm survival? For the last four years, Campgrounds Road Conditions researchers from the National Park Service, US Geological Survey, and Research Ranger Programs Oklahoma State University have delved into the secrets of What's Blooming? this remote population of bears. Upon carefully trapping, Bird Sightings radio-collaring, tracking, and conducting genetic tests, Photo Gallery many of these questions are finally being answered. ...and more! The analysis of mitochondrial DNA is now com- plete. This genetic "fingerprint" is passed on from mother to cubs and has allowed researchers to recreate a family tree for park bears. The study determined the www.nps.gov/bibe number of haplotypes. Haplotypes are DNA indicators of relatedness. The more haplotypes in a population, the more ge- netically diverse it is. Tissue samples were was found only in adult males that were not offspring of resident taken from 144 bears in seven different females and were probably migrants born elsewhere. populations from the Chisos and nearby Big Bend bears in the study were highly related. In fact, the north- mountain ranges in Mexico. ern Tex/Mex population includes fewer haplotypes than reported in Of all bears studied, five haplotypes any other regional black bear population. This may not necessarily be were identified. Big Bend bears included a cause for alarm. Park bears appear to be relatively mobile. During last representatives of only two types. Inter- year's drought conditions, the majority of park bears migrated back to estingly, all Big Bend females and their Mexico and later returned after the rains came. This migration to and offspring were of only one type. This in- from Mexican mountains, if uninterrupted in the future, should en- dicates the Big Bend population could be sure the genetic health of the park population. descended from as few as one or two More than anything else, these results prove the importance of females. The same type was found only each isolated “island” population to the future of the Tex/Mex bear in bears from the Serranias del Burro population. To maintain the small, isolated populations in Big Bend Mountains, in Coahuila, Mexico. This and Mexico, protection is required and bear movements must not be confirms that the female founder(s) impeded by human activity and development. Results from this study came from Northern Coahuila. The will help Big Bend National Park successfully provide a home for bears second lineage identified in Big Bend long into the future .

Live Park Webcam A new view every 15 minutes! Magnificent sunsets, fiery webcam goes way beyond just sunrises, and the continuously providing pretty pictures. The National Parks changing play of light on the There are great Pass costs just $50 and . Deadhorse concernsover covers entrance fees Mountains are View the Sierra del Carmen.. Big Bend's de- into all National Park now visible teriorating air Service areas for 12 from your quality. This months from the date home com- webcam is one of purchase. puter! of many in- Log onto struments the official Big now con- Bend National tinuously Get Your Passports Here... Park Website and LIVE! monitoring Already paid $10 to enter Big Bend NP? You may exchange your current valid you can see what visibility in the park. Site visi- entrance receipt for a variety of passports: park employees get to see tors can now access real-time All U.S. citizens aged 62 or older are eligible for the Golden Age everyday...the view looking readings on visibility, ozone lev- Passport which costs $10 and allows free entry into all National Park southeast from park headquar- els, and even archived images of Service areas and 1/2 price camping. ters, updated every 15 minutes. each day. If you visit Big Bend several times each year, you may want to Although invaluable in www.nps.gov/ Click over to consider purchasing a $20 Big Bend Annual Pass which covers all bringing Big Bend's scenery into bibe and check it out! entrance fees to Big Bend National Park for 12 full months. your home, the purpose of this

Page 4 The Big Bend PAISANO A Special Little Fish

thorny mesquite bushes, another ration project has been very suc- result of pre-park agricultural cessful and the park has great hope Back From practices, are being thinned for expanding the mosquitofish through active removal and pre- habitat in the future. Threats to the Brink scribed burning to allow the re- the fish still abound, however, Wetland Project Restoring establishment of wetland grasses. and constant vigilance is required Vital Habitat Thus far, the wetland resto- to keep them safe. Because the population is so small and clus- tered, a seemingly minor envi- ronmental change could exter- minate the species from the wild. Because of its highly endangered status, the park must continue to be actively involved with the Big Bend mosquitofish. Habitat res- toration is an important part of providing sanctuary for the con- tinued recovery of a species that is trying to return from the very brink of extinction.

he Big Bend mosquitofish channels, a beaver pond, T(Gambusia gaigei) is not a and two constructed particularly impressive fish at first ponds constitutes the glance. This small, minnow- core mosquitofish habi- by Park Ranger sized creature seems rather ordi- tat. The fragile fish are Gail Fox nary. Nothing could be further highly adapted to warm water Park elementary school students from the truth, however. The spring conditions not found in planting native grasses at the restoration site mosquitofish is actually an en- other water sources of the region. dangered species whose only It is essential to restore and en- habitat in the wild is a few warm- hance as much available habitat as water springs at Rio Grande Vil- possible. To that end, in 1999 Big lage in Big Bend National Park. Bend began a wetland restora- Following an afternoon rain, No where else in the tion project funded by the The Chisos the thunder rolls away and the world is this animal National Park Service warm Big Bend night fills with a found naturally. Water Resources Big Bend Mosquitofish Chirper symphony of chirping sounds. So precarious is Division. The pri- In the Chisos Mountains, this its existence, mary goal of the chirping noise may not only be the sound of insects, but may also be that at one point project is to in- the territorial and mating call of the elusive spotted chirping frog, the entire mos- crease surface Syrrhophus guttilatus. quito-fish spring water to This small frog spends most of its life nestled deep inside rock population was provide additional crevices where it finds pockets of moisture. With a somewhat flat- down to just mosquitofish habi- tened head and body, this frog can really squeeze deep into remote three individuals. tat. To do that, the cracks and out of the hot sun. Unique among park amphibians, this The fight to save park began by remov- frog develops from tadpole to adulthood within the protection and this special fish has ing an asphalt road and moisture of its egg membrane. This direct development allows the been going on for decades, picnic area and recontouring the frog to be independent of culminating in a current habitat soil to better retain water. A water water sources. It is an ideal restoration pipeline, ...at one point the entire adaptation for the dry con- project that power line, ditions of Big Bend National will hope- mosquitofish population was and a main- Park. fully in- down to just three individuals. tenance fa- Although this spotted crease its cility were chirping frog has historically chances for survival. also relocated out of the wetland been considered a relict spe- The decline of the area. Aerial photos, detailed to- cies, recent research may mosquitofish can be attributed pographic mapping, and soil prove otherwise. A relict to both natural and human- analysis were key to understand- species is one that once had caused factors. Scientists think ing the former extent of the wet- a larger distribution due to a past climate that was quite different than the fish thrived long ago when lands and determining the scope the present one. Eight thousand years ago, the climate of Big Bend Big Bend had a much wetter cli- of the current project. was wetter and cooler than it is today. As the area gradually warmed, mate. As this area dried out over The next phase in the habitat plants and animals that were better adapted to the cooler conditions time, its habitat was severely lim- restoration is revegetation. This were restricted to higher elevations. The spotted chirping frog, the ited. Early farming efforts before includes transplanting plants quaking aspen, the Douglas fir, and the Carmen Mountain white- the park was established also from nearby areas and also grow- tail deer are examples of relict species found in the Chisos Moun- contributed to the decline. Crop ing new plants from seed. The tains. fields, irrigation ditches, and park elementary school operates Since the spotted chirping frog is also found in the mountains of roads eliminated the wetland a greenhouse to propagate native Durango, Mexico, it is thought that the distribution of the spotted habitat. Even early Park Service plants for restoration projects and chirping frog once extended to the lower elevations that joined these practices hurt the situation with has played an integral role in the two mountain ranges. However, there has been recent speculation the development of paved roads, wetland revegetation effort. For that the frogs in the Chisos may not be Syrrhophus guttilatus, but a picnic area, and a maintenance this project, transplants include actually the mottled cliff chirping frog, Syrrhophus marnockii, com- yard in prime mosquitofish habi- wetland grasses, cottonwoods, monly found throughout the Texas hill country. At the moment, tat. It wasn’t until the 1960’s that willows, baccharis, and cattails. researchers are looking at the similarity of the calls, the genetic the Park Service realized that the In addition to replanting, non- makeup, and the morphology of the animals to consider the rela- mosquitofish was on the verge of native plant species like tamarisk, tionship of the frog to either species. extinction and began efforts to palm trees, buffelgrass, and by Park Ranger Regardless of the name, this chirping frog is Angelina Yost save it. rabbit’s-foot grass must be re- one of many reasons why the Chisos, a moun- Today, a 10-acre wetland area moved to avoid over-running the tain island in a desert sea, is a valuable outdoor laboratory for further containing two springs, runoff native species. Dense thickets of research, and a valuable refuge for relict species.

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 5 Keep Wildlife Wild Mountain Lion Big Bend Bears Living Safely with Black Bears Country f Big Bend had a symbol, it might well be the he return of black bears to Big Bend Imountain lion--the embodiment of free- TNational Park is a success story dom and wildness. Solitary and secretive, this for both the bears and the park. mighty creature is the unquestioned lord of Native to the Chisos Mountains, its natural world. As one of Big Bend’s top bears disappeared from this area predators, Felis concolor—"cat all of one during the pre-park settlement era. color"—is vital in maintaining the park’s bio- After an absence of several decades, logical diversity. Within the delicate habitats bears began returning to the park from of the Chihuahuan Desert, mountain lions Mexico in the early 1990s. help balance herbivores (animals that eat plants) and vegetation. Research shows that Today, wildlife biologists estimate cats help keep deer and javelina within the that up to 12 black bears may live in the limits of their food resources. Without lions, park. Though they prefer the wooded the complex network of life in Big Bend would Chisos Mountains, bears also range certainly be changed. along the Rio Grande and throughout Encountering a mountain lion, however, the desert, particularly when drought can lead to conflicts in maintaining the bal- dries up their regular water sources ance between natural processes and visitor in the mountains. enjoyment and safety. Since the 1950s, there have been more than 800 sightings of moun- Black bears are omnivorous. They tain lions by visitors. While over 90 percent of eat large amounts of nuts, fruits, sotol these sightings were along park roadways, and yucca hearts, insects, and smaller encounters along trails have also occurred. quantities of eggs, small mammals, rep- Since 1984, three lion and human encounters tiles, amphibians, honey, and carrion. have resulted in attacks on people. In all cases, Their strong sense of smell also leads them to those attacked recovered from their injuries human foods, and they can quickly open Keep them wild and the aggressive lions were killed, prevent- coolers, backpacks, and trash cans when en- ing them from playing out their important ticed by food odors. natural roles. The more we know about lions, will find bearproof storage lockers for storing Bears normally avoid humans, but bears and the less we seek an encounter, the better all edibles. Hard-sided vehicles are also suit- that learn to get food from human sources able we will be to make life easier for them and able for storing ed- often become ag- for us. ible items. All gressive in their at- How much do you really know about this dumpsters in the tempts to get more powerful and wild cat? Mountain lions live Chisos Mountains “people” food. throughout the park, including the Chisos LivingLiving WithWith BearsBears developed areas are When humans Mountains where they prefer to use trails. bearproof, as well. disobey the rules of In the Basin Campground Your chances of encountering an aggressive And remember, a both the park and •Store food, beverages, trash, toiletries, pet lion are remote. What can you do to minimize bear’s definition of nature by feeding food, and dishes in the bearproof storage the consequences of an encounter? Avoid an “edible” is far bears, it is the bears locker provided at your site. hiking alone or at dusk or dawn. Watch chil- broader than ours; that end up paying dren closely; never let them run ahead of you. •Keep your campsite clean. Take trash and lock up sunscreen, the ultimate price. If you encounter a lion, we suggest: food scraps to a dumpster. skin lotion, tooth- Park staff may have •Dump liquids in restroom utility sinks, not on paste, soap, and to kill bears that DON'T RUN! the ground. other toiletries lose their fear of • Do not crouch down; the lion has seen you •Ice chests and coolers are not bear-proof; whose odors might people and endan- long before you saw it. store them in your vehicle. attract wildlife. ger humans in their • Hold your ground, wave your hands, shout! attempts to get our Cyclists If the lion behaves aggressively, throw •Use food storage lockers where provided. There really are food. Fortunately, no problem bears- stones. At the lodge Big Bend has not only problem • Convince the lion that you are not prey and •Leave nothing outside your room, on the had to kill any people. Careless- that you may be dangerous yourself. bears, but some balcony, or on the porch. ness can kill. Don’t • If you have small children with you, other national When hiking be responsible for pick them up and parks destroy sev- •Never leave packs or food unattended. the death of a bear. do all you can eral bears each sea- •Avoid carrying odorous food and toiletries. Follow the guide- to appear large. son; we hope that •Leave excess food and beverages in your lines at left in the • Report all through educating trunk or food storage box if not taking them “Living With park visitors about sightings to with you. Bears” box. Pay proper behavior in a park ranger. close attention to bear country, we •Carry out all trash, including orange peels, cigarette butts, and left-over food. the food storage can avoid this rules posted in the tragic outcome. Regulations are Basin campground strictly enforced! and on your back- Big Bend has packing permit. made it easy to keep If you see a bear... Your actions affect Like all predators, the lion’s role is a part edible items away •Keep a safe distance. both Big Bend’s of the health and welfare of the entire ecosys- from bears. Camp- •Do not approach, follow, or feed a bear. wildlife and future tem. Research and further human under- ers at the Chisos •If a bear approaches, scare it away by park visitors. With standing of the cat’s habits pave the way for Basin Camp- shouting, waving arms, or throwing objects. your help, bears and conservation efforts in its behalf. As we dis- ground, at High humans CAN live Chisos backpack- •Look for cubs. If present, back away slowly. cover more about the lion, we fear it less and •Report all bear sightings and incidents to a safely together. appreciate it more. For many visitors, just ing sites, and at Ranger. seeing a track, or just knowing lions are out some primitive there, will be reward enough. roadside campsites

Page 6 The Big Bend PAISANO Rare Bats Wings in the NIGHT Rare bats depend on Big Bend NP

the summer, when the century sign and install “bat gates” across Western yellow bats, however, plants bloom. While here, they the multiple entrances of this mine. prefer to roost under the dead roost in a single large crevice high These gates prevent humans from hanging branches of palm trees. in the Chisos Mountains. This is entering, but allow the bats to fly Here in Big Bend National Park, the only known roosting site in in and out relatively unimpeded. these bats have switched to the U.S. Protecting this site from These were among the first bat roosting under the dead hang- disturbance is vitally impor- gates installed in any national park, ing leaves of yuccas. These bats tant to the survival of the and they serve as an excellent ex- seem to have adapted quite well bats, the century ample of both visitor and resource to using yuccas in place of palm plants, and every- protection. trees. thing else that de- A New Arrival The presence of this new bat pends on the century plants species in the park leads re- for survival. Park staff monitor The western yellow bat searchers and park staff to won- both the bats and the century (Lasiurus xanthinus) has only re- der what prompted these ani- ig Bend National Park is plants each summer, trying to es- cently been found here. Its tradi- mals to expand their range into Bhome to more species of bats timate the status of the bats and tional range is in western Mexico this area. Perhaps their numbers than any other national park. In the food available to them. and southern parts of Arizona and have increased beyond what fact, almost half of the 45 species their traditional habitat can sup- of bats found in the U.S. can be port, so they are searching for found here. Many are fairly nu- new suitable habitat. Perhaps merous, easily seen and some- their habitat is declining due to times even heard as they fly on development, prompting them warm nights. Of the twenty spe- to flee that area and resettle into cies of bats found in Big Bend marginal areas in west Texas. It National Park, three are of spe- has even been suggested that cial concern to researchers. Park global warming will cause an in- staff and bat biologists pay close crease in the number of tree- attention to Mexican long- roosting bats moving into west nosed bats, Townsend’s big- Texas. eared bats, and western yellow There is still much that we bats. don’t know about some of these rare bats. Their nocturnal activ- Nectar Lovers ity, their hidden roosting sites, Mexican long-nosed bats their migratory habits, and the (Leptonycteris nivalis) are fed- challenging terrain in which they erally listed as an endangered often live make them difficult to species because of the threats Bat Gate over a deep shaft at Mariscal Mine study. Here in Big Bend National they face in Mexico, where Park, all three of these bat species people often disturb or even A Maternity Ward California, but in 1996, bat re- can find the necessary food, shel- destroy their roosting caves in searchers caught one flying over a ter, and other habitat compo- misguided attempts to eradicate Townsend’s big-eared bats spring in Big Bend National Park. nents that they need to survive. vampire bats. Confusing these (Corynorhinus townsendii) are This established a new species not Outside the park, where they may harmless nectar-feeding bats found throughout Big Bend Na- only for the park but also for Texas. be subject to disturbance and loss with vampires, people there of- tional Park. These bats are highly Prior to this find, the closest these of habitat, they face a more un- ten kill these bats and other ben- sensitive to disturbance. If awak- bats were known to occur to the certain future. eficial bats. Loss of food sources ened during their hibernation, park was 120 miles away in Mexico. also imperils the long-nosed they will use up vital body fat nec- As of winter 2002, ten western yel- by Park Ranger bats, as people harvest century essary to their winter survival and low bats have been found in the Mary Kay Manning plants , the bats’ primary nectar may starve to death before spring. park, as well as five more in other with special thanks to Mike Dixon, Loren Ammerman, and Brian Keeley source , for human and livestock Any disruptions to maternity parts of west Texas. consumption. colonies may even cause females Most bats found in the park Mexican long-nosed bats to abandon their offspring. can be found roosting in caves, are the only nectar-feeding bats One of the largest maternity mines, buildings, or under bridges. found in Big Bend National Park. colonies in the entire U.S. exists They are the primary pollinators deep within the shafts and tunnels of the park's century plants, since of the Mariscal Mine. In the late Panther Junction they carry pollen from flower to 1970s, park staff began to close How Hot? elevation 3,750 feet flower as they feed on the rich many of the mine entrances with Avg.High/Low Avg.Rainfall" nectar. Researchers estimate that fencing to protect adventurous January 61/35 .46 without these bats, century plant park visitors from unstable walls, February 66/34 .34 reproduction in the park might deep pits, and mercury dust, but March 77/45 .31 April 81/52 .70 drop to 1/300 of what it is today. little thought was given to the bats May 88/59 1.50 Century plants play important that relied on the mines for roost- June 94/66 1.93 roles in the high desert ecosys- ing. Poorly designed closures July 93/68 2.09 tem; in addition to providing made it difficult for bats to enter August 91/66 2.35 food for the bats, they also pro- and exit their roosting sites. September 86/62 2.12 October 79/53 2.27 vide food and shelter for nu- Bat Gates November 66/42 .70 merous species of insects and December 62/36 .57 birds. None of these things In the early 1990s, park man- would be possible without the agement recognized the need to yearly average: 79/47 15.34" nectar-feeding bats and their change the closures on the mine

pollination services. shafts to improve both visitor Temperatures in the Chisos Basin vary 5-10 degrees below these readings, while day- Long-nosed bats visit Big safety and bat access. Park staff time temperatures along the Rio Grande average 5-10 degrees warmer. Bend National Park only during worked with bat biologists to de-

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 7 Seeing The Park

Now That You're ou've driven many miles to get here, and have finally arrived at your destination: YBig Bend National Park. But now what? Now that you’re here, how do you spend your time? Where should you go? What should you explore? The park is big, and often visitors have Here, What Can a limited amount of time to explore. Yo u D o ? Here are some suggestions for seeing the park if you have only a limited amount of time to enjoy Big Bend.

One Day Three Days One Week If time allows, drive to the Chisos With three days to spend in the park, you With a week or more to spend in Big Mountains to take in the spectacular can explore the major roads more thoroughly Bend, endless possibilities are open to you. mountain views. Walk the 0.3-mile self- and still have time for hiking. In the Basin area, You’ll have plenty of time to explore the guiding Window View Trail to get a feel for consider hiking the Window Trail (5 miles roads the mountain scenery. round trip) or the Lost Mine Trail (4.8 miles men- Grapevine Hills round trip); consult the Hiker’s Guide to Trails tioned Chisos Mountains of Big Bend National Park, for sale in park in the visitor centers, for trail descriptions. previ- ous In addition to the Basin and Ross Max- sec- well Scenic Drive (see suggestions for “one tions, day”) you can drive to Rio Grande Village, and will perhaps stopping at Dugout Wells along the also have time to hike or to drive some of the way to walk the short Chihuahuan Desert “unimproved” dirt roads. For these, you’ll Nature Trail. The Rio Grande Village Visitor need a high clearance or four-wheel drive Center offers a brief introductory slide pro- vehicle; don’t forget to check at the visitor centers for current road conditions. The A trip along the Ross Maxwell Scenic River Road, Glenn Springs Road and Old Drive will give you a taste of the Chihua- Ore Road are some of the more popular huan Desert and will lead you to the Rio backcountry routes. A visit to Ernst Tinaja Grande. There are scenic overlooks and near the south end of the Old Ore Road is a exhibits along the way. Sotol Vista, Mule Big Bend highlight. Ears Overlook and Tuff Canyon are all worthwhile stops. The short walks to the If you don’t have high clearance or four- Sam Nail (Old) Ranch and Homer Wilson wheel drive, gravel roads such as Dagger (Blue Creek) Ranch and a visit to the Rio Grande Village Flat, Grapevine Hills and Maverick will get Castolon Historic District will give you a you “off the beaten path.” Hike the Chim- glimpse into Big Bend’s past. neys Trail, Mule Ears Trail, or Grapevine gram. Walk the Rio Grande Village Nature Hills Trail for a closer look at the desert A highlight is the short (1.6-mile round Trail which begins near site #18 in the camp- environment. If you'd like to explore the trip) walk into Santa Elena Canyon—one ground. The bluff overlooking the Rio Grande Chisos Mountains, trails to Boot Canyon, of Big Bend’s most scenic spots. Drive to at the end of the nature trail is a particularly Emory Peak and the South Rim offer good the end of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to beautiful spot at sunset. views of the park and take you into another access the trailhead. You may return to the Boquillas Canyon road will take you to an world which seems far removed from the main road by returning on the Ross Max- overlook of the small village of Boquillas, desert. There are plenty of opportunities well Drive or on the Maverick Road, a 13- Mexico, and to the border crossing. At the for overnight backpacking along these trails. mile gravel road linking the Ross Maxwell end of the road is the Boquillas Canyon A free backcountry use permit is required Drive to the Maverick (west) Entrance. Al- Trail, which takes you to the entrance of this and can be obtained at park visitor centers. ways check on road conditions first. spectacular canyon. Float the Rio Grande If you have the time and a spirit of tended seven-day excursions. Park adventure, you may want to con- Rangers can recommend a trip that sider a river trip. Seeing the park’s meets your abilities and interests. canyons from the middle of the Rafting and equipment rental Rio Grande is both fascinating companies are listed on page and gratifying. There are 15. See "Backcountry many possibilities, from Planning" on page 13 for half-day floats to ex- additional information on river trips.

o matter how limited your time in Big about Big Bend’s trails and roads. Attending NBend, remember that you will enjoy the ranger-led activities and evening programs park more if you stop your car and explore is also a good way to learn more about Big on foot. That doesn’t mean that you have to Bend; check at the visitor centers and park hike miles on steep grades; there are many bulletin boards for current activities. short, easy walks and roadside exhibits where Remember, you don’t have to see every- Floating you can stretch your legs and enjoy the sights, smells and sounds of the Chihuahuan Desert. thing this trip. You will probably enjoy the Boquillas Canyon park more if you choose a few spots and Hiker’s guides and road guides are avail- explore them thoroughly to get a taste of able at book sales areas throughout the park, what Big Bend has to offer. Then, come back and they offer more detailed information again to see the rest!

Page 8 The Big Bend PAISANO Take A Hike! From the 7,825 foot summit of Emory Peak, to the banks of Big Bend Trails the meandering Rio Grande, visitors will find over 200 miles of hiking trails in Big Bend National Park. Trails range from strenuous primitive routes through rugged desert backcountry to short handicapped-accessible pathways. What- ever your style of hiking, you can find it in abundance in Big Bend. Below are descriptions of many of the most popular easy and moderate hiking trails. Most of these trails are perfect for shorter day hikes of up to several hours. For information on longer, more difficult routes, or to plan an extended backpacking trip, stop by any park visitor center. A large selection of Experience Your America! maps and trail guides are available and park rangers can assist you in trip preparations and backcountry permits.

The Chisos Mountains form the rugged For a good introduction to the scenery Chisos Mountains- heart of Big Bend National Park. High ridges and wildlife of the Chisos, hike the Window Basin Area and summits coax moisture from passing Trail. From the Basin Campground, this trail clouds. The result is a forested mountain "is- winds two miles through colorful Oak Creek land" surrounded by a desert sea. Canyon to the top of the Window pouroff. When the lower desert trails become un- Wildlife is abundant along this trail. Look and comfortably hot, enjoy the shady, pine- listen for javelina, white-tailed deer, and scented trails of the Chisos Mountains. All Mexican jays. On the return trip, hike .25 mile Chisos trails begin from the Basin area in the along the Oak Spring Trail for one of the center of the park. park's best views. RoundtripLength Comments LocationTrailhead Trail Length Comments Location

0.3 Level, paved, handicapped accessible. Great Chisos Basin Trailhead Window View mile sunsets and mountain views. (near the Basin Store) Connects the Laguna Meadow and Pinnacles Trails. 1.6 Chisos Basin Trailhead Climbs 350 feet through pine/oak woodland. Nice Basin Loop (near the Basin Store) miles views of the Basin area. Descends to the top of the Window pouroff. Great 5.6 Chisos Basin Trailhead The Window scenery and wildlife viewing. Climbs 800 feet on miles or Basin Campground return. Lost Mine 4.8 This magnificent hike climbs 1,100 feet to excellent Basin Road mile 5 miles mountain and desert views. (at Panther Pass)

Panther Junction - tory of Big Bend. Discover Indian mortar District. Drift back in time and imagine what holes in Boquillas Canyon and the early pio- life was like during the early 1900s when J.O. Rio Grande Village Area neer settlements of Dugout Wells and Hot Langford developed this natural hot spring Between Panther Junction and Rio Grande Springs. Enjoy the diverse birdlife along the into a tiny health resort. A one-mile loop Village lies a vast sweep of scrub desert, rocky Rio Grande and the rich geology at Grapevine takes you past the old motel, post office, ridges, and river floodplain. Sprinkled Hills. homestead, and foundation of the hot spring through this massive area are trails that high- One of the more popular areas in Big bathhouse. light the fascinating natural and human his- Bend's east side, is the Hot Springs Historic Roundtrip Comments Trailhead Trail Length Location 2.2 Follows a sandy wash through boulder field. A short Grapevine Hills climb at the end takes you to a large balanced rock Grapevine Hills Road miles archway mile 6

Chihuahuan Desert 0.5 A flat desert path near a cottonwood oasis. Signs Dugout Wells Picnic Nature Trail miles interpret Chihuahuan Desert plant life. Area 0.75 Hot Springs Walk past historic buildings to the riverside hot End of Hot Springs miles springs. 105oF water. Take a bathing suit and soak a while. Road (unpaved) Cross a boardwalk and climb 125 feet to a great Boquillas Canyon Rio Grande Village 0.75 Rio Grande Village panoramic view of the river floodplain and distant Trail Campground (site 18) Nature Trail miles mountains. Good birding and sunrise/sunset views. Begins with a short climb, then descends via a 1.4 End of Boquillas Boquillas Canyon sandy path to the river. Ends near a huge sand miles Canyon Road “slide.” Ross Maxwell Scenic Dr. - best viewpoints and desert hikes are along this the river's edge and follow it upstream into a road. world of superlative cliffs and dense thickets Castolon Area The Ross Maxwell Drive ends at the of riverside vegetation. Enjoy the sounds of The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive skirts the trailhead to Santa Elena Canyon. There is no moving water and the descending song of the rocky ramparts of the Chisos Mountains and better trail to experience the sights and sounds canyon wren. descends through the spectacular west side of of the Rio Grande. From the parking area, the Big Bend National Park. Many of the park's giant chasm is in full view before you. Hike to Roundtrip Trailhead Mule Ears Peaks Trail Length Comments Location Burro Mesa 1.0 A flat, sandy trail up a canyon to the base of a dry Ross Maxwell Dr. Pouroff mile pouroff. Interesting geology and desert plants. mile 11(at Burro Mesa Road) Ross Maxwell Dr. The Chimneys 4.8 Flat desert trail to prominent rock formations. Look miles for rock art. No shade. mile 13

Mule Ears Spring 3.8 A beautiful desert hike to a small spring. Spectacular Ross Maxwell Dr. miles geology and mountain/desert views. mile 15

0.75 Balconies overlook this scenic canyon. A short trail leads Ross Maxwell Dr. into and through the narrow gorge carved out of soft Tuff Canyon miles mile 20 volcanic tuff. Santa Elena 1.6 Crosses creekbed, climbs stairs, then descends along 8 miles west of the river into a magnificent 1,500 foot deep limestone miles Castolon Canyon canyon.

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 9 Conservation Alert Look. . . But Don't Touch Disappearing CactusLife ith a plethora of user-un from the ground into backpacks, that they are likely to suffer the times, and the impact becomes Wfriendly characteristics, boxes, or bags. Removed from danger of imminent extinction monumental. logic would lead us to believe that their desert environment, all dug within the forseeable future.The What does the park do to con- cacti would be pretty low on the up cactus will eventually die. Big rarest cactus in Big Bend is the trol cactus poachers? Big Bend is popularity scale. However, come Bend’s rare cacti are highly prized Chisos Mountain Hedgehog. 1,252 square miles of some of the spring, even the homeliest cacti by collectors, not just for their aes- Found nowhere else in the world most remote and rugged undergo a sensational transfor- thetic value, but also because of land in the U.S.. We do our mation, making even the part by preserving and pro- most botanically apathetic tecting the fragile desert visitor stop and take no- habitats in which rare cacti tice. . . they flower! Ex- species live. We also expect quisite blossoms attract visitors to share the re- not only pollinators, but sponsibility of maintaining also visitors from every the integrity of their na- state. Park visitation in- tional park by reporting creases drastically during suspicious activity, and by the March and April flow- not taking part of the park ering season, stretching home with them. ranger resources to the limit. Preservation of natu- Unfortunately, many of the ral habitat is the best way park's cactus species are to protect threatened and vanishing. Why? endangered species; but Many reasons contrib- what if these species con- ute to disappearing cactus. tinue to disappear? Na- Encroachment by exotic tional Parks have become plants minimizes the amount refuges for of space cacti have within their many ideal habitat. Trespass live- or- stock can trample and destroy gan- the delicate soils, sometimes isms leaving entire areas barren. Chisos Mountain Hedgehog living Desert organisms are particu- on the larly sensitive to changing en- brink of vironmental conditions. When For every individual cactus extinc- external factors stress an already tion. Na- restrictive habitat (try surviving taken out of the park, we tional on ten inches of rain a year or get a little closer to losing parks have less), the "fabric" that holds the that species forever. also be- system starts to unravel and the Bunched Cory come living ecosystem deteriorates. Plants laborato- vanish. Animals perish. The their rarity. The rarer the cactus, but for a few locations in the park, ries for the study of endangered desert, as we know it, dies. the higher the price. Unfortu- this species usually grows under species. However, simply creat- The main threat faced by nately, rarity is also associated with creosote bush and is hard to find. ing protected areas does not guar- some of Big Bend’s cactus spe- the danger of extinction. During This natural camoflauge vanishes antee survival for the organisms cies is poaching. Cacti are more the 1970s and 80s, widescale, sys- when the magnificent pink blos- that live within. Through inter- vulnerable to theft than other tematic collecting on private soms appear-usually during pretive programs and park lit- plant species because whole in- ranchlands denuded many areas spring break-the busiest time of erature, we are attempting to in- dividuals are easily transported of cactus. Freshly dug piles of cac- the year. Every year, a few more still a sense of urgency in our visi- tus represent- Chisos Hedgehogs end up in the tors: extinction is now and ex- ing every spe- clutches of cactus poachers. tinction is forever. cies within 100 Two other threatened cacti, Please help us maintain your miles were a Lloyd's Mariposa Cactus and fragile Chihuahuan desert eco- frequent sight Bunched Cory Cactus, are also system by not removing any of WANTEDWANTED along local targeted by cactus hobbyists. the plants and animals that live roadsides. Indi- Both were once very common within, and by taking the time to CACTUS viduals sold for throughout the Big Bend coun- teach your children, and your ! .10 cents and try on limestone soil. Today, children’s children, that life is ir- USTLERS wholesale prices rampant overcollecting has re- replaceable. So look, but don't R were listed per duced their populations to pro- touch, and with your help we can Each year, large numbers of thousand. To- tected lands within Big Bend Na- preserve Big Bend National Park’s cactus and other plants are day, with in- tional Park and the Black Gap uniqueness in its original state, creased aware- Wildlife Management Area. one spiny, flowering cactus at a ness and protec- For every individual cactus time. STOLEN tion, the cactus taken out of the park, we get a from Big Bend National Park. harvest is not as little closer to losing that species by Park Ranger Help us stop the loss of blatant-but still forever. Perhaps it seems like the Sharon Collyer irreplacable desert plants... continues. loss of one or two won't do ir- Within Big reparable damage to the desert Report Cactus Thieves To Bend National ecosystem. However, in nature, A Park Ranger Park there are nothing stands alone. By remov- At Once! three species of ing one cactus plant, we delete: cactus listed as one source of food, one source Local nursuries sell native desert plants. threatened un- of shade, one source of moisture, If you would like to legally acquire desert plants, ask at a visitor center for der the en- one habitat for small organisms, more information. dangered one topsoil stabilizer, and one species act. intrinsic part of the desert eco- This means system. Multiply this a thousand

Page 10 The Big Bend PAISANO River Ecosystems Kids

and Scenic River contribute even more. The isolation and remoteness from pollution What can kids sources contributes to better water quality. Part of that remoteness comes from having magine visiting a such a large area of land protected under state do here? I local restau- and federal law. rant where the spe- The National Park Service mission is to cialty is fillet of cat- preserve and protect resources undisturbed fish, proudly adver- for future generations. This ensures that the tised as, “Local fare, straight out of the Rio river here will ideally be protected from future Grande!” Would you be inspired to order? human-induced degradation. This doesn’t Not many people get excited about eating mean that everything is perfect here—there anything that comes out of this river, much are several fish, mussel, reptile, and amphib- less jumping in for a swim. Are these fears ian species federally listed as threatened, en- really dangered, grounded or are un- in fact? der review Accord- for these ing to the The Rio designa- data, the tions. Become a Junior Ranger! Rio Grande There are Grande even ex- The Big Bend Junior Ranger program is has been tirpated designed for kids of all ages. Through activi- on a species, or ties, games, and puzzles, kids can have fun as downslide ones that they learn about the park. They can also earn for de- once lived stickers, badges, patches, and certificates. cades. in these Dur- waters but The Junior Ranger Activity Book costs ing by- are now $1.00 and is available at park visitor centers. gone only Hike a Trail! days, the found Rio was a else- Many park trails are suitable for families. dynamic An Endangered Refuge for Aquatic Life where. Consult the "Easy and Moderate Hikes" chart river, ex- Pro- on page 9. For children in strollers, consider perienc- tecting the Window View Trail, a paved ¼-mile ing high floods during the rainy season. This what river habitat is left can provide species loop trail that begins at the Chisos Basin created fertile bottomlands and diverse riv- with some stable foundation. The Blue Sucker, trailhead. erside habitats. Beginning in the 1950s, large Cycleptus elongatus, for many years was con- Big Bend is a special place! We hope you dams were built to satisfy irrigation and hu- sidered a species of concern and probably enjoy Big Bend National Park and that you man consumption demands. These block- headed for the endangered species list. Recent learn to value its resources. If you have any ades reduced the wide range of flows and studies, however, discovered abundant popu- questions, ask a park ranger for help. nutrients, altering the conditions that native lations of this fish in the Lower Canyons, more species had adapted to. Consumption de- than anyone would have imagined. This pro- mands have only increased, turning the Rio vides hope that not all is lost and more may be Safety Grande into more of an irrigation canal than surviving than we have research dollars to a natural free-flowing river. discover. Concerns This protected stretch of river also pro- Beginning in 1994, the watchgroup for American Rivers officially began rating the vides hope for extirpated species. Just as the Parents Rio Grande as an endangered river, citing Mexican Black Bear recolonized Big Bend's several threats: land development, excessive mountains, the river habitat within the park Mountain Lions diversion and overuse of water, agricultural may provide other once-resident species with Because Big Bend is mountain lion coun- runoff, mine waste, and industrial pollution. a future home. The Silvery Minnow, try, it’s important for parents to keep close Today, the only water that flows downstream Hybognathus amarus, was last seen here in the watch over their children. Lions are most of El Paso is irrigation runoff and discharges 1960s. Today, the only known population is in common in the Chisos Mountains, but have from city wastewater treatment plants. This New Mexico. This population is currently been sighted at all elevations and could ap- water, though wet, is not necessarily helpful; being temporarily removed from the river pear anywhere. While lions are rarely a threat it is highly concentrated with chlorides and when water levels become too low to support to adults, young children who are unac- other salts. the fish. Big Bend may be an ideal spot to companied by adults could be in danger. Sometimes the river below El Paso is noth- reestablish this species. ing more than a dry wash. Where does the With ever-increasing competition be- Require your children to walk with water come from that flows through the park? tween humans and our wild counterparts, adults, rather than by themselves. If you see It is mostly from the Rio Conchos which maintaining suitable habitat for all is becom- a lion, pick up your smallest child. Keep all originates in the mountains of Chihuahua, ing more difficult. As systems like the Rio your children with you and stand as a group. Mexico, and enters the channel of the Rio Grande become more and more degraded we DON'T RUN! Shout and wave your arms Grande near Presidio, Texas. This river has need to act. If maintaining a functioning eco- above your head. Mountain lion sightings also been reduced due to growing agricul- system is a priority, we should identify appro- are unusual and exciting, and most people tural and municipal use in Mexico. Where priate sites where not only endangered spe- see lions while travelling in their cars. How- does that leave the quality of our cies can recover but where all ever, be sure you talk to your children about National Park waters? Believe it by Park Ranger natural inhabitants can find their safe behavior before you begin hiking or or not, this is the light at the end Joselyn Fenstermacher niche and thrive. National and exploring the park. of the gloomy tunnel. State protected lands may be the Swimming Anyone who is familiar with the Rio best hope for conserving suitable habitats. The Rio Grande is a surprisingly strong Grande will tell you that the stretch between We can all take part in protecting and con- river with unseen undertows and debris on Presidio and Langtry (through the park) is the serving our future by understanding and sup- the bottom. Swimming is not recommended. healthiest part. The Rio Conchos, although porting our land management agencies in Stay with your children as they explore the far from pristine, provides dilution for the these efforts. river shore, make them keep their shoes on, concentrated trickle out of El Paso and points and don’t let them drink the river water. north, and numerous fresh water springs in the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande Wild Please see page 14 for additional safety information.

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 11 General Information Ranger Lodging Banking Programs Join a park ranger for a The Chisos Mountains Lodge, There are NO banking facilities in guided hike, evening slide operated by Forever Resorts Inc., Big Bend National Park. The show, talk, or workshop on is located in the Chisos Basin at nearest banking/ATM services are Big Bend's natural and cul- 5,400 feet elevation. The lodge $ located in Study Butte, 26 miles tural history. These free pro- offers a variety of rooms and cottages, plus a west of park headquarters. Most stores ac- grams are offered daily. Consult the Inter- gift shop and dining room. For reservations, cept major credit cards; however, camping pretive Activities Schedule posted on visitor please call (915) 477-2291 or 2292. fees must be paid in cash. It is advisable to have center and campground bulletin boards for small bills ($1, $5, $10, $20) since larger bills are more information. often difficult to change. Small bills are also advised if you plan to travel to the nearby Camping Mexican villages. Tent Camping Trailers & RV's Bird Watching Camping in Big Bend National All park campgrounds can accom- With its proximity to Mexico, diversity of Park is on a first-come, first-served modate trailers and RVs, but ve- habitat types, location on a major migration basis with no advance reservations taken. hicle lengths have a great deal to do with safely path, and checklist of almost 450 species, Big The National Park Service operates camp- reaching the campground and finding a suit- Bend has much to offer to those who plan grounds at Rio Grande Village, the Chisos able space. their vacations around the potential for view- Basin, and Castolon. The cost is $8.00 per The only hookups available in Big Bend ing birds. night for a site. National Park are at Rio Grande Village in the The spring migration Camping is also available at primitive 25-site, full-hookup campground operated begins in late February or backcountry campsites in the Chisos by Big Bend Resorts, Inc. Although there is no early March. Through Mountains and along backcountry roads. size restriction, your vehicle must be equipped March and April the num- High-clearance or 4-wheel drive vehicles are with water and electrical hookups as well as a ber of migrants increases necessary to reach most road sites. three-inch sewer connection. Register at the steadily until peaking the last Backcountry permits are required and can be store. No advance reservations are taken. two weeks of April and the first obtained in person at park visitor centers up Near the RV park is the 100-site Rio week of May. In this rush of birds to 24 hours in advance. Grande Village Campground operated by are many migrants returning from wintering Camping areas are often full during the the National Park Service. Although there are ranges in Latin America on their way to Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, as well no hookups, water, flush toilets, and a dump northern nesting grounds. Most pass as during spring break in March or April. station are available. Set in a large grove of through, but some remain through the sum- The only public showers and laundry cottonwoods, the campground is adjacent to mer to nest and raise their young. Among the facilities in the park are located at the Rio the Rio Grande. Many of the sites are pull- expected migrants come the occasional rare Grande Village store. throughs. Generator use is limited: from and accidental species who have wandered, 8:00 am to 8:00 pm daily. A no-generator or are pushing the extreme edge of their nor- use area is also designated. mal range. To observe the many migrant and Cottonwood The 65-site Chisos Basin Campground resident species, and perhaps have the chance Campground is rugged and hilly. The sites are small and to find that once-in-a-lifetime rarity, pa- most are not suited to recreational vehicles or tience and knowing where to look are the trailers. The road to the Basin is steep and keys. curvy, especially at Panther Pass—the road’s The park bird checklist is a valuable tool in highest point. The road into the campground figuring out where to look. Nearly 75% of all is a 15 percent grade. Trailers longer than 20 the listed species have been observed in ri- feet and RVs longer than 24 feet are not rec- parian areas, including the corridor of the Rio ommended. Grande and desert springs (Sam Nail Ranch, Cottonwood Campground, near Dugout Wells). The pinyon-oak-juniper belt Castolon, offers pit toilets and potable water, (Upper Green Gulch, Lost Mine Trail, and the but no hookups or dump station. Cotton- Chisos Basin) is another productive habitat, wood is a NO-generator campground. particularly for acorn woodpecker, Mexican Big Bend's unpaved roads are generally jay, and tufted titmouse. If Colima warbler is Groups of 10 or more are eligible to re- unsuitable for RV's and trailers. Overnight a goal, then hikes to the moist woodland can- serve a spot in one of the park's group camp- camping in any primitive site requires a yons of the high Chisos (Pine and Boot Can- sites. Reservations may be arranged up to 90 backcountry permit, obtained in person at yons) are necessary. The grassland/shrub days in advance by calling (915) 477-2251. park visitor centers up to 24 hours in advance. community along the lower slopes of the Chisos, and the lower desert areas can yield many species, including Lucifer humming- Park Campgrounds bird, once yuccas, sotol and agaves bloom. While you are enjoying the birds, keep in mind that many of the migrants you may # of Cost Per observe are members of populations in de- Elevation Sites Night Facilities Registration cline. Beset by habitat destruction on both Flush Toilets, the wintering and breeding grounds, and Chisos Basin 5,401 ft 65 $8.00* Self-pay station Dump Station critical stopover areas along the migratory path, these birds that bring us so much plea- Pit Toilets, sure could soon fade from our skies. You can Cottonwood 2,169 ft 35 $8.00* Self-pay station No Generators help: tread softly and don’t damage water sources; don’t disturb nesting birds with noise Rio Grande 1,850 ft 100 $8.00* Flush Toilets, Self-pay station or intrusive attempts at photography. Share Village Dump Station your observations with us, particularly of rare or accidental species. Your detailed reports Full Hookups Inquire at RGV Rio Grande 1,850 ft 25 $14.50 become part of the record and may aid re- Camper's Store Village RV searchers. Enjoy the birds of spring, and help * 50% discount with Golden Age or Golden Access Passport us ensure their return next year.

Page 12 The Big Bend PAISANO Backcountry Planning Horses Hiking and Floating the Backpacking Rio Grande Visitors are welcome to bring and Big Bend National Park offers The Rio Grande follows the use their horses in the park. A free over 100 miles of hiking trails. A southern boundary of Big Bend stock-use permit is required and free permit is required for all over- National Park for 118 miles. In this may be obtained in person at any night trips, and can be obtained distance it has carved three major of the park's visitor centers up to 24 hours in in person only up to 24 hours in advance of the canyons, Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas, advance of the trip. trip. Because of the unreliability of desert which have rapids varying in difficulty from While horses are not permitted on paved springs, it is difficult to plan an extended back- Class I to Class IV. Between the canyons, the roads or road shoulders, all gravel roads are packing trip prior to your arrival in the park. river is generally slower-paced. The Rio open to horses. Cross-country travel is per- Decide how much distance you want to cover Grande Wild and Scenic River extends down- mitted in the park, except in the Chisos Moun- and how much time you have. Park staff can stream beyond the park boundary for an ad- tains where horse use is limited to the Laguna assist you with trip planning based on your ditional 127 miles. Meadow, Southwest Rim, and Blue Creek needs and current trail conditions. The Pan- If you plan to take a river trip in Big Bend trails. ther Junction Visitor Center is open daily from National Park, you may bring your own Horses are not permitted on nature trails, 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. equipment, or you can hire a guide service. the Santa Elena and Boquillas Canyon Trails, Backpacking sites in the Chisos Moun- Four local companies (see page 15 for tele- or the Pine Canyon Trail, nor are they permit- tains are difficult to obtain during the Thanks- phone listings) provide guide service in the ted in picnic areas. giving and Christmas holidays, and during park—you may reserve a trip by contacting Grazing within the park is not permitted, spring break in March and early April. them directly. so you must bring your own feed. Stock may You may purchase maps and hiker’s be watered in the Rio Grande and at springs guides at park visitor centers, or you may that are not used for domestic water supply. order them in advance from the Big Bend Be prepared to haul water for your stock as Natural History Association by calling (915) springs are unreliable, especially during win- 477-2236. ter months. Check current spring conditions If you plan to use your own equipment, at a visitor center when you arrive. All horse Pets are not allowed on trails or in you must obtain a free permit at a park visitor manure must be removed from the park, or backcountry areas. Please leave center. Permits are issued up to 24 hours in deposited at a designated location near the pets at home if you plan to hike. advance of your trip, in person only. Stop by NPS horse corral at Panther Junction (ask a the Panther Junction Visitor Center for your ranger for directions). The Southeast Rim of the Chisos Moun- permit and for current river condition infor- You may camp with your horses at many tains, Mariscal Rim, and Casa Grande are mation prior to your trip. of the park's primitive closed during the peregrine falcon nesting Permits for the Lower Canyons of the road campsites. These season (February 1 - July 15). Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River may be are available on a first- obtained at the Persimmon Gap Visitor Cen- come, first-served ba- ter, when open; a self-permitting station is sis through a free Weather also located at Stillwell Store, 5 miles south on backcountry use permit FM2627 on the way to La Linda, Mexico. Elevational differences in Big Bend mean available at park visitor centers. Permits for floating Santa Elena Canyon may that temperatures can be vastly different in These campsites are especially dif- be obtained at the Barton Warnock Center in different areas of the park. The lower areas ficult to obtain during holiday peri- Lajitas. Only permits for Santa Elena Canyon along the Rio Grande are very hot during the ods, especially spring break. may be written there. However, we encour- summer months, while the Chisos Moun- Camping with horses is not permitted in age all parties to get their permits at a park tains are considerably cooler. Winter weather any of the park's developed campgrounds. visitor center when possible, to obtain the generally occurs between November and Government Springs campsite, located most up-to-date river information and con- February, with temperatures dropping dra- 3½ miles from Panther Junction, is a primitive ditions. matically as cold fronts move through the campsite with a corral large enough for 4-8 River guide booklets are available for area. Between June and October thunder- horses. purchase at park visitor centers. If you would storms and flash floods may occur. Bring If you plan to bring horses to the park, like to order them in advance of your trip, call clothing for both warm and cool weather, as you may reserve this campsite up to 10 weeks the Big Bend Natural History Association at well as rain gear, when visiting Big Bend any in advance by calling (915) 477-1158. (915) 477-2236 or visit the ir online internet time of the year. See "how hot?" on page 10. bookstore at www.bigbendbookstore.org

Lost Mine Peak Sierra del Carmen 7,535' Mexico Crown Mtn. Pulliam Ridge Casa Grande Toll Mtn. 7,010' 6,870' 7,325' 7,415' Juniper Canyon

Chisos Basin 5,400' Boot Canyon

Emory Peak 7,825' L.Davis photo by Top of the World: View from the summit of Emory Peak

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 13 SAFETYSafety TipsTIPS Reading This Could Save Your Life! Safety is the Starting Point for a Great Visit ig Bend is unfamiliar country to most avoid ridges during thunderstorms. Carry a Swimming Bvisitors yet it need not be dangerous. flashlight and a first aid kit. Let someone know Whether hiking the highcountry, rafting the where you’re going and when you expect to Hot weather makes the muddy Rio Rio Grande, observing wildlife, or simply return. If you get hurt or lost, stay in one place Grande look very inviting, but swimming is driving the scenic roads of this wilderness to conserve water and energy. Signal for help; not recommended. Water borne micro-or- park, let safety be your constant companion. three blasts on a whistle is a well-recognized ganisms and other waste materials can occur Spend a moment reviewing these common distress call. In remote areas, a large "X" in the river and cause serious illness. The river safety concerns so that you may have an en- marked on the ground by any means visible can be hazardous, even in calm-looking wa- joyable visit. from the air will signify that help is needed. ter. Strong undercurrents, deep holes, and Carry a signal mirror. Remember to obtain a shallow areas with sharp rocks and large tree Driving free backcountry use permit before heading limbs are common and make the Rio Grande out overnight. unsafe for swimming. If you do choose to swim, wear a life jacket and avoid alcohol. Many accidental deaths in Big Bend result Poisonous Animals from car accidents. While driving is a great Desert Wildlife way to see the park, it can also be dangerous, Venomous snakes, scorpions, spiders, particularly if you are tired or are going too and centipedes are all active during the Black bears, javelinas, skunks, coyotes, fast. Drive within the speed limit, 45 mph warmer months. Inspect shoes and sleeping and raccoons frequent Big Bend's camp- maximum in the park, and watch for javelina, bags or bedding before use and always carry grounds. Although they sometimes appear deer, and rabbits grazing along road shoul- a flashlight at night. While snake bites are rare, tame, all of the animals in the park are wild, ders, especially at night. Seat belts are re- they usually occur below the knee or elbow. and could pose a threat to your health and quired at all times. Remember, too, that you Pay attention to where you walk and place safety if you attempt to approach or feed share the road with bicyclists and pedestri- your hands. them. Never feed any of Big Bend's wildlife. ans. Some park roads, such as the road into the To prevent these Chisos Mountains Ba- creatures from becom- National Park Service sin, are steep and wind- Keep The U.S. Department of the Interior ing habituated to people, ing and require extra store all food, coolers, caution. The Basin Wild in Wildlife! Big Bend National Park cooking utensils, and Road is not recom- toiletries in a hard-sided mended for RVs over Javelina are wild and can be dangerous... vehicle, preferably in the 24 feet or trailers over trunk of your car. Food 20 feet. Finally, always storage lockers are avail- select a designated able for hikers and camp- driver before drinking Never ers in the Chisos Moun- alcoholic beverages. tains. Dispose of garbage Feed A Javelina! properly. At the Chisos Basin Campground, Heat throw away garbage in Desert heat can kill the special bear-proof you. Carry plenty of dumpsters and trash water (at least one gal- cans provided. Remem- lon per person, per day) ber to report all bear or and wear a hat, long lion sightings to a ranger. pants, long-sleeved shirt, and sun screen Fire when hiking. Springs Fire danger is always are unreliable and of- an important safety con- ten dry up for a portion sideration in Big Bend. of the year, despite what Wood or ground fires are maps indicate. Avoid not permitted in the hiking during mid-day Regulations are strictly enforced! in summer; travel as park, and you must ex- ercise caution in the use wild animals do, in the of gas stoves, charcoal grills, and cigarettes. early morning or late evening hours rather Big Bend has experienced drought condi- than during the heat of the day. Mountain Lions tions in the past several years and some re- Hiking strictions may apply to the use of these heat Big Bend is mountain lion country, espe- sources. Check with a ranger for the latest Exploring this desert and mountain cially the Chisos Mountains. While lion at- information about fire safety in the park. country on foot requires both mental and tacks are rare, three have occurred in the last physical preparation. Trails vary from well 10 years. Should you encounter an aggressive Big Bend truly is wild country. In fact, maintained in the Chisos to primitive and mountain lion, hold your ground, wave your many people visit Big Bend precisely because barely visible in the desert. Plan hikes within arms, throw stones, and shout. Never run. it is remote and rugged. But remember, as you your ability. Take along a map and compass Keep groups together and consider hiking enjoy the splendor of this great wilderness and know how to use them. Flash floods may elsewhere with young children if you come area, to make safety a priority. By giving fore- occur following thunderstorms so avoid nar- across a special mountain lion warning sign thought to your actions you can have a safe, row canyons or dry washes. Stay low and posted at a trailhead. exciting, and rewarding vacation in Big Bend National Park.

Pet Owners: Keep your pet on a leash (or in a cage) at all times. Never leave them unattended at Petany time.Owners: Predators such as owls, coyotes, javelinas, and lions CAN and DO kill pets here. Even large dogs cannot defend themselves against predators. Remember, desert heat is deadly. Do NOT leave your pet alone in a vehicle. Pets are not allowed on trails, off roads, or on the river. The nearest kennel service is in Terlingua, 30 miles away.

Page 14 The Big Bend PAISANO Local Facilities & Services

To Marathon Big Bend National Park 385 Unpaved Road Ranger Station/Information Primitive road Campground Stillwell Store (four - wheel drive, Picnic area Persimmon and RV Park high clearance vehicles only) Lodging Gas Station Gap BLACK GAP Private land within Food Mountains park boundary 2627 WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA N To Alpine Harte ROSILLOS MOUNTAINS Ranch

10 Miles

Trail 118 Rosillos Dagger Flat Auto Ranch PRIVATE LAND DEADHORSE MOUNTAINS

Heath Canyon Terlingua Ranch La Linda Fossil Bone Exhibit

Road to the Basin and Ross Maxwell TheScenic road toDrive the Basinjust beyond is not recom-Sotol Vista mendedOverlook for not trailers recommended longer than for 20 trailers feet longerand RVs than over 20 24 feet feet and because RVs over of 24 feet Grande becausesharp curves, of sharp steep curves grades, and steepand grades. Study limited parking. Terlingua Butte Panther Junction Park Headquarters BIG BEND RANCH (Ghost Town)

118 UNITED STATES STATE PARK MEXICO Santa Elena Old Junction The Basin To Presidio Maverick Ore

Dugout 170 Road Rio Lajitas Road Wells Pine Canyon

Burro Mesa Pouroff Drive Blue Creek MESA DE ANGUILA Scenic Ranch Maverick Juniper Canyon UNITED Boquillas Canyon STATES Old Trail

MEXICO Maxwell Hot Boquillas Santa Elena Springs Canyon Mule Ears Glenn Ross Trail Viewpoint Springs Rio Grande CHISOS MOUNTAINS Village Rio Castolon

Santa Elena Grande Mariscal Mine

River

Road Grande

Rio

Inside the Park (Area Code 915) Outside the Park (Area Code 915) Reporting Emergencies Parkwide ...... Call 477-2251. Lodging (Call ahead for reservations) After the automated system answers, press 9. Badlands Hotel, Lajitas...... 424-3471 If no answer, please hang up and call 911. Big Bend Motor Inn, Study Butte ...... 371-2218 or 800-848-BEND National Park Service Easter Egg Valley Motel, Study Butte ...... 371-2254 General Information ...... 477-2251 Gage Hotel, Marathon ...... 386-4205 Big Bend Natural History Association Heath Canyon Ranch, FM 2627 ...... 376-2235 Seminar programs and book sales ...... 477-2236 Longhorn Ranch Motel, Hwy 118...... 371-2541 Visitor Centers and Ranger Stations Marathon Motel, Marathon ...... 386-4241 Castolon Ranger Station ...... 477-2225 Terlingua Ranch Resort ...... 371-2416 Chisos Basin Visitor Center ...... 477-2264 or 477-2392 Camping Panther Junction Visitor Center ...... 477-1158 Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas ...... 424-3327 Persimmon Gap Visitor Center ...... 477-2393 Big Bend Travel Park, Study Butte ...... 371-2250 Rio Grande Village Visitor Center ...... 477-2271 or 477-2356 BJs RV Park, Terlingua...... 371-2259 Lodging Easter Egg Valley Motel ...... 371-2254 Chisos Mountains Lodge (Chisos Basin) ...... 477-2291 Heath Canyon Ranch, FM2627 ...... 376-2235 Campgrounds Lajitas on the Rio Grande ...... 424-3471 Rio Grande Village, Basin, and Cottonwood ...... (NPS operated) Ocotillo Mesa Scenic RV Park, Study Butte ...... 800-729-1406 Rio Grande Village RV Park (full hookups required) ... (concession operated) Stillwell Trailer Park, FM2627 ...... 376-2244 ...... All are operated on a first come, first served basis Study Butte RV Park ...... 371-2468 Restaurants Terlingua Oasis RV Park (tents & cabins) ...... 371-2218 or 800-848-BEND Chisos Mountains Lodge (Chisos Basin) ...... 477-2291 Terlingua Ranch Resort ...... 371-2416 Park Gasoline Service Service Stations and Grocery Stores Panther Junction (also diesel)...... 477-2294 Big Bend Motor Inn, Study Butte (gas & diesel)..371-2483 or 800-848-BEND Rio Grande Village (also propane) ...... 477-2293 Lajitas Trading Post (gas) ...... 424-3234 Tow Service ...... 477-2291 Stillwell Trailer Park, FM2627 (gas)...... 376-2244 Campground Stores Study Butte Store and Station (gas, diesel & propane) ...... 371-2231 Rio Grande Village...... 477-2293 Terlingua Auto Service, Study Butte (towing & repair) ...... 371-2223 Chisos Basin ...... 477-2291 Rio Grande Float Trip Outfitters Castolon ...... 477-2222 Big Bend River Tours, Study Butte ...... 371-3033 or 800-545-4240 Medical Services (outside the park) Desert Sports, Terlingua ...... 371-2727 or 888-989-6900 Terlingua Medics (business #) ...... 371-2536 Rio Grande Adventures, Study Butte ...... 371-2490 or 800-343-1640 Big Bend Family Health Center (Study Butte) ...... 371-2661 TX River Expeditions/Far Flung, Study Butte ... 371-2633 or 800-839-7238 Big Bend Regional Medical Center (Alpine) ...... 837-3447 Equipment Rentals Banking Services (outside the park) Desert Sports , Terlingua ...... 371-2727 or 888-989-6900 Quicksilver Branch Bank & ATM, Terlingua ...... 371-2211 Rio Grande Adventures, Study Butte...... 371-2490 or 800-343-1640 Kennel Service (outside the park) Big Bend River Tours, Study Butte...... 371-3033 or 800-545-4240 Terlingua Creek Kennels ...... 371-2348 Horseback Riding Guide Services (outside the park) Lajitas Stables, Lajitas...... 424-3238 Big Bend Touring Society, Terlingua ...... 371-2548 Big Bend Stables, Study Butte ...... 371-2212 or 800-887-4331 Texas Jeep® Expeditions ...... 371-2633 or 1-800-839-7238 Spring Creek Remuda, 23 mi. south of Marathon...... 376-2260 Texas Jeep® Rentals, Terlingua ...... 877-839-JEEP Ben's Hole Creek Ranch, Terlingua...... 371-2954

(Calls to 371, 424, and 837 prefixes are long-distance)

The Big Bend PAISANO Page 15