The Great Barrier Reef in a Nutshell Australia Text by Michael Arvelund, Phd Whale Watching, Anyone? (SOURCE: the AUSTRALIAN GOVERNMENT; and Coral Cays

Awesome By Tim & Wandy Hochgrebe Australia Diving Down Under the Land Down Under

A coproduction with

28 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIEDYANN SAINT-YVES Australian Appetizers

DownIntroduction text by Wandy and Tim Hochgrebe under Down Under Underwater photography by Tim Hochgrebe all state summaries by Wandy and Tim Hochgrebe Topside photography by Yann St. Yves A coproduction with underwater.com.au

YANN ST YVES

Australia—the land ‘Down Under’— Australian wildlife, but there is also the renown for Uluru (the rock formerly know incredible Spiny Ant-eater (Echidna) and the platypus who both lay eggs, as Ayers), its red desserts and kanga- but suckle their young. roos. But the smallest continent on earth Most of the 20 million Australians are features one of the largest varieties of descendants of nineteenth and twen- tieth-century immigrants. The five larg- habitats ranging from tropical rainfor- JOHN SMITH - UNDERWATER.COM.AU est groups of the Australians who est to old-growth temperate forests were born overseas come from and alpine heaths—and that goes for the United Kingdom, New underwater as well. Zealand, Italy, Vietnam and China. Only a very small Due to the unique environment with percentage is made nutrient-poor soils, highly variable up of the indigenous weather patterns and geographic people—mainland isolation, a high percentage of Aborigines and Torres Australia’s flora and fauna is Strait Islanders. endemic and extremely well adapted to their unique sur- Relaxed rounds. Australians are known The koala in its gum tree for their relaxed atti- is probably one of the tude, their open- best-known icons ness and their love of of the nature—and all of that is KAREN WILSHAW - UNDERWATER.COM.AU true. Australia is home to many races and religions, and on the whole, every- body accepts each other’s way of life—and they all love their beer … With the increase of air travel, Australia has become a popular destination for tourists from all over the world and anything to do with

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Uluru formerly known as Ayers Rock; Seahorse; Dolphin trio; Wobbegong; map of Australia; resting Kangaroo STEVE GRIFFIN - UNDERWATER.COM.AU

29 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RON WALSH - UNDERWATER.COM.AU travel Australia

YANN SAINT-YVES So where the Koala bears snuggle in deep sleep, nestlied in the branches of their favourite Eucaliptus tree ‘bloody hell’ water is extremely popular with as their close relative the endemic locals and tourists alike. The 2005 and incredibly beautiful Weedy are ya ? Surfing World Tour featured five Seadragon have found their home. Australians in the top ten—surfing Further south, kelpforests, seal col- is a cultural icon of Australia. But onies, rock lobsters, abalone and a other watersports like diving and multitude of sponges and ascidians opportunity to see the majestic Great White reef, called Ningaloo provides a magic and snorkelling enjoy growing popu- colour the rocky reefs. Shark from the safety of a cage. unspoilt dive destination. Fantastic coral larity. Off Adelaide, divers have the On the other side of Australia, a fringing gardens and walls not far from the main- Although most tourists land and snorkelling with whalesharks and are aware of the Great manta rays are some of the highlights—as Barrier Reef off the North- are spotting dugongs and dolphins. East coast of Australia, There are plenty of wrecks to explore,

more and more people are YANN SAINT-YVES caves to dive, off-shore islands to dream discovering the excellent of, endangered animals, aggregation diving in other parts of the sites for rare species such as the Leopard continent as well. With a sharks, the Grey Nurse Sharks, stingrays, coastline of almost 26,000 cuttlefish and of course the annual coral km—much of it still reason- spawning events. ably unspoilt—it should not About 89% of temperate fish species are come as a surprise that unique to Australia, so there is no excuse there are plenty of spots to not to come and visit the cooler regions. find amazing marine life. This feature about Australia is aiming YANN SAINT-YVES In the harbour of Sydney, to go slightly beyond the “road well trav- TOP: A pair of Nurse sharks, or the largest city in Australia, elled” and includes some destinations that Ragged tooth sharks, patrol the in only a few meters of some divers might not yet have heard waters for prey. ABOVE INSET: water dumpling squids, about. Australia is a fantastic place to live Discover Aboriginal culture anglerfish, Port Jackson and dive—so, as they say down under, sharks and seahorses as well “Where the ‘bloody hell’ are ya?” ■ SMALL INSET LEFT: Kangaroo X-ing LEFT: A view of Kata Tjuta from afar

30 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Catch a Tiger by the Tail!

Explorer scientists, I have been studying the shark populations out at Osprey Reef in the Coral Sea, 60 nautical miles off the north-east coast of Queensland. Undersea Explorer visits some of the most pristine and remote reefs in Australia and provides a unique chance for tourists to do four dives a day whilst interacting with research scientists. Each week divers are able to join expeditions featuring projects on Sharks, Minke Whales, Nautilus, Coral Monitoring and Water Quality. Osprey Reef Osprey reef is an ideal dive site and a hot spot for sharks. White tip reef sharks, Grey Reef Sharks and Silver tips are guaranteed and hammer- heads also seen regularly. To study the sharks here I need to insert a small id microchip underneath the skin, and for this I need to bring the shark up to the boat. This is easier said than done. Even the smaller sharks are incredibly pow- erful and quick, so I developed a technique of underwater shark rodeo! A crate of bait is placed on the reef and while the shark is preoccupied by the food, I grab hold of its tail and slip a rope around it. After that it is a gentle swim to the Undersea Explorer where we can do the necessary Text by Richard Fitzpatrick Many people think I must have a death in aquariums around Australia but even- research with the aim of having Photos by John Rumney wish because tiger sharks are known to tually left the aquarium world to move real field data on growth, repro- be pretty aggressive. I have stopped into underwater filming and to pursue duction and home range of these Hanging onto the dorsal fin of a telling people what I do at social gath- my dream to do hands on research with sharks. Our goal is to obtain the tiger shark as it swims is a truly erings, it is a guaranteed conversation wild sharks. I teamed up with a research information to work towards long stopper. “What do you do?” “I tail rope and adventure diving venture Undersea term sustainability and conserva- awesome experience. Feeling sharks in the open ocean”. People either Explorer to help establish a long-term tion of sharks. the immense power and strength think I am liar or a loony! shark monitoring program. For the last of these animals is incredible. I started off working with captive sharks nine years, in conjunction with Undersea THIS PAGE: Researchers tag tiger sharks in Australian waters 31 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Australian Tigers Queensland How? The Claw The first hurdle was ‘How?’ My ini- After a year of development and testing tial idea was just to up scale the I successfully used my new safer inven- existing technique. After all tigers tion—The Shark Claw’. On the end of are just big reef sharks. The saving a long pole, the ‘Claw’ is designed to grace to capturing an animal of clamp on to the shark’s tail. I attract the this strength and size is the bizarre sharks using a floating bait. Approaching way that sharks behave once their the bait in a small dive tender the tiger

tails are secured. Nobody really often comes over to investigate. The PETER SIMPSON - UNDERWATER.COM.AU knows why, but the minute the tail claw has to circle the peduncle in exact- is caught they stop swimming and ly the right place so timing has to be lie relatively placidly in the water. perfect. When we are close enough - I However until the moment that can grab the sharks tail using the ‘Claw’ that tail is secured the shark is far without jumping in the water. The ‘shark from placid! Grabbing the tail of a claw’ is attached to a rope and large thrashing three and a half meter float which the shark drags through the shark is pretty difficult, especially water till it stops swimming. This new tech- as the power of the shark turns nique is much quicker and less stressful Of course everybody has heard of the the water to foam and visibility for both the animal and me. Great Barrier Reef and its numerous drop becomes almost nil. The only way offs, coral atolls and coves. The waters I could get hold of the tail was Adam here are home to 1500 species of fish by jumping in the water with the The most recent tiger shark I have alone in addition to thousands of dif- sharks. I managed to catch four tagged was a 2.5 metre male, named ferent molluscs, crustaceans and other tiger sharks like this, but it was ‘Adam’. The satellite tag is attached to invertebrates. Further out in the Coral Sea pretty frightening. Seeing the gap- Adam’s dorsal fin, where a salt water the waters are even more pristine with ing mouth of serrated teeth over switch activates the tag every time the visibility often exceeding 50 metres. The After working with smaller sharks for Northern Great Barrier Reef. Raine two foot wide suddenly materializing just fin breaks the surface, allowing us to islands that are located on the Southern a few years I set myself a new chal- Island in the remote Far Northern inches from your face is an image that is track her movements from space for Great Barrier Reef are all surrounded by lenge- working with the mighty tiger end of the Great Barrier Reef is famous not easily forgotten. months to come. colourful coral reefs, pinnacles and clear shark. Reef sharks are strong, but as the world’s largest turtle rookery. In Not surprisingly the scientific community The satellite tags have revealed some turquoise water. Sail and dive around the being the largest tropical preda- November it has been known for more eventually decided that this method was fascinating new information about the well-known Whitsunday Islands. When on tory shark, tigers are a whole than 14,000 turtles to come ashore to too dangerous and quietly encouraged lives of tiger sharks. We now know that land you can watch turtles lying eggs or new ballgame! nest here in just one night. Raine Island’s me to look in to safer options. they do cover huge distances after leav- turtle eggs hatch, depending on the time I was introduced to the impressive turtle aggregations are no of the year. Further down on the Sunshine Tigers at Raine Island secret to marine predators like the cost the newly sunk wreck of the HMAS during Undersea tiger shark. As the turtles come in to Brisbane has become a big attraction to Explorer’s sched- nest, the tigers come in to feed. divers. Brisbane also offers artificial reefs in uled trips to Very little is known about tiger Morton Bay or make your way to Morton the Far shark behaviour and I wanted to Island and dive some wrecks. Plus you will find out just how far the tiger sharks find that Manta Rays pay regular visits to were travelling to feast on the North Stradbroke Island. ■ migrating sea turtles at Raine Island. To do this I needed to be able to track the sharks’ movements and the best way to do that is from space. I needed somehow to attach a satel- lite tag to the dorsal fin of tiger sharks at Raine Island so that I could follow them once they left the island. ÁKOS LUMNITZER - UNDERWATER.COM.AU

32 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Australian Tigers Undersea Explorer Remote Far New South travel Northern Expedition – 7/8/9 day expeditions available Oct-Dec Wales

Expeditions to Great Detached Reef, Raine Island, Mantis Reef and Wreck Bay near the top of Australia, with Richard Fitzpatrick as special guest scientist. Travelling to the Far Northern regions of the Great Barrier Reef will always be the pinnacle of extreme adventure diving. Australia’s spring is the best time to dive the outer walls, offering a great chance of encounters with megafauna. Brydes Whales, Manta Rays and Whale Sharks and of course Tiger Sharks are all regular visitors to this region. Raine Island is the world’s largest Green Turtle nesting site.During this expedition you’ll experience the excitement of 3-4 superb dives per day in remote areas, drift dives and deep dives. Onboard activities range from informa- SEAN PHILLIPSON - UNDERWATER.COM. tive presentations in the biologist room, ‘creature feature’ talks on the top deck, and barbecues on the top deck.Your panoramic flight to or from In the North, tropical and temper- Leave this type of encouter to the pros. Don’t try this at home! Lockhart River gives you the opportunity to view ate currents meet and you can swim the vast wilderness of the Cape York coastline and amongst Leopard Sharks in summer ing Raine Island travelling in all direc- suggests that we must rethink and find reefs.In addition to our Far Northern Expeditions, as well as loads of turtles, especially tions. For shark management this kind more realistic methods to protect these Undersea Explorer also offers 6 day Osprey Reef around Byron Bay. The critically endan- of information is essential to match the ocean wanderers. Shark Encounters throughout the year, and 6 day gered Grey Nurse Sharks, or Ragged most appropriate conservation plans This research has been possible through Minke Whale Expeditions in Jun/Jul. Prices are Tooth sharks are resident in the southern with the behaviour of the species. For the Undersea Explorer research program, from AU$2100 per person for a 6 day expedition part of the North Coast as well as fur- most large migratory species like sharks Digital Dimensions, and CSIRO. To follow including twin share cabins and all meals. Check ther down the coast. Try the awesome current marine parks only cover small the shark research go to www.sharkre- our schedule on the web: www.undersea.com. cave dive at South West Rocks about sections of their habitat. The shark data search.com ■ au/2007.htm or call 61 7 4099 5911 half way down to Sydney. While there, don’t just look at the opera house; YANN SAINT-YVES Sydney’s waters are surprisingly rich in marine life. Discover the rocky reefs and kelp beds teeming with life, such as Port Jackson sharks, Eastern Blue Gropers, Giant Cuttlefish, Weedy Seadragons and moray eels. South of Sydney offers anything from penetrable shipwrecks to diving with inquisitive Australian Fur Seals. ■

TRURINA COOK - UNDERWATER.COM.AU

33 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED School of Goatfish Victoria

ByronWhere Tropical And Temperate Waters Bay Merge By Wandy and Tim Hochgrebe Photos and video by Tim Hochgrebe

The township of Byron Bay lies on the east coast of the Australian continent, a mere two hours south of Brisbane and about nine hours north of Sydney. Byron Bay TONY BROWN - UNDERWATER.COM.AU is quite well known for being Bay for its East of Melbourne. imagine a land- the most easterly point of the culture it scape made up from granite boul- Australian mainland and is home also has some ders, drop-offs and pinnacles, col- to the most powerful lighthouse major natural attractions. oured by sessile growth. Yes, the water in the southern hemisphere. One of them is the annual whale temperatures can drop to 12ƒC, but migration of the majestic Humpback visibility can be up to 45 metres! Swim Whale. Between May and October 5000 landscape, through kelp or past stunning sponge Known for the alternative lifestyle and individuals make their way up North and coloured by sessile gardens. Melbourne itself is a big city friendly people, Byron Bay has grown back down to the Antarctica each year. life such as sponges, with some great diving! Interact with into one of Australia’s most popular Both land based whale watching and hard and soft corals Australian Fur Seals at the largest colony holiday destinations for people wanting the close-up experience from boats has hinterland is part and tunicates. in southern Australia at Seal Rocks. something more than beach alone. increased in popularity over the last few of the Cape Since 1982, marine life Explore the wrecks of the J-Class subma- The many cafes and the relaxed years. Byron Marine has been protected rines. West of Melbourne you find even atmosphere put you in a holiday mood Although Byron Bay is one of Australia’s Park and home to a certain extent more accessible shipwrecks. The Fiji, right away. For those seeking culture, most popular holiday destinations, only to the Julian Rocks through the creation Schomberg and Loch Ard are located nightlife and fine dining, Byron also has few people realise the fantastic marine Marine Sanctuary. of Julian Rocks Marine Reserve. This less than 10 metres deep. Explore the a lot to offer. Art exhibitions, gallery environment Byron Bay has to offer. This helped the emergence of a unique rocky reefs made up out of ledges, pin- openings, fire dancing performances and popular subtropical township renown Julian Rocks underwater Mecca for marine life at this nacles and gutters, which are covered plenty of live music are always on offer. for its beautiful beaches and stunning Julian Rocks consists of rock formation only 2.5km off shore. in sponges, zoanthids, bryozoans and People do not only visit Byron ancient igneous rock, remains of a In December 2002 Julian Rocks became kelp. ■ volcanic eruption more than 20 million part of the Cape Byron Marine Park and years ago. It is an extension of Cape in May 2006, the Marine Park zoning plan Byron separated by water and forms a came into action, which amongst other most unique habitat, providing shelter things means that an area with a radius of and food for more than 500 1500m around Julian Rocks has become tropical and temperate a Sanctuary Zone for most of the year. This fish species alone. will hopefully see fish stocks increase even Boulders, sand gutters more and give the critically endangered and trenches form a Grey Nurse sharks, or Ragged Tooth sharks, fantastic underwater some well deserved additional protection. Even though Julian Rocks looks rather small, dive sites are plenty and its rocky reefs extend to Spot X, Mackeral Boulder and the Cape Pinnacles. Diving is pleasant all year round with temperatures ranging from 18˚ C in winter to 27˚ C in

Loggerhead sea turtle cruises the reef FIONA LIGNUM - UNDERWATER.COM.AU 34 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Byron Bay

Byron Bay

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Leopardshark displays summer. Due to its sheltered location often congregate in the sandy gutters on dramatic markings and elegance in its streamlined diving takes place almost every day the North side of Julian Rocks at a depth form and fins; schooling reef fish; Brilliant red seastar of the year, with visibility ranging from of around twenty meters. 5 to 30 meters. Through the 1950s and 60s these The marine environment around sharks were hunted to near extinction in Byron Bay is quite unique as both Australian waters as they were wrongly tropical and temperate currents that believed to be man-eaters. With their total flow past Julian Rocks contribute population estimated to be less than 500 equally to the abundance and the Grey Nurse Shark population on the variety of marine life. With water East Coast of Australia is now considered temperatures and currents changing Critically Endangered. Fortunately, Julian throughout the year there are many Rocks has been identified as one of seasonal visitors. Every dive at Julian thirteen Critical Habitats for Grey Nurse Rocks is different unlike diving on many coral reefs and many people return to this dive site on a very regular basis to experience it during different seasons and conditions. Sharks along the NSW coast. Some be found in different places. fishing and even dive behavioural The juvenile Half-circled Angelfish Winter guidelines were put in place in the (Pomacanthus semicirculatus) can be The month of May, when water hope this will increase the chance of easily identified due to its bright blue temperatures start to drop, marks the survival of this species. colouring and white semi-circles on start of the Grey Nurse Shark season. the side. Once it becomes an adult These endangered and in NSW fully Spring the rings disappear, but they are still protected sharks are fantastic to In spring when the water stunning. Of the Surgeonfish the Blue encounter. Although these sharks temperature starts rising, a variety Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus) must be look ferocious they are perfectly safe of tropical species become more the most noticeable one and juveniles to dive with. common around the rock and can be found hovering just above table The Grey Nurse Sharks (Carcharius different kinds of butterfly fish, corals together with Headband Humbugs taurus), or Ragged Tooth Sharks, angelfish and surgeonfish dart (Dascyllus reticulatus), ducking inside for prefer the deeper waters and they around the coral outcrops that can cover as soon as anything approaches.

35 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Byron Lighthouse was bulilt in 1901 the most common ones being the Byron Tasmania travel Barrier Reef Anemonefish (Amphoprion akindynos) and the Blue-lip Anemonefish (Amphiprion latezonatus). Bay Around mid December the anemonefish start laying their bright orange eggs. Interestingly, the eggs are cared for mainly by the male, which can be found fanning the egg mass with their fins, providing its offspring with oxygen rich water. Hatching generally occurs after a period of 6 to 10 days. It is at this time that the large stingrays arrive. Black Stingrays (Dasyatis thetidis), the Cowtail Stingray (Pastinachus sephen) and the Smooth Stingray (Dasyatis brevicaudata) can be seen on most aggregation sites dives. With their huge wingspan of almost each year. Butterflyfish two meters or more they are a quite As the water begins to The butterflyfish are less shy and are found impressive sight. cool in early May the Leopard mostly in pairs, nipping on coral polyps or Sharks simply disappear from Julian Rocks. grazing. The Threadfin, Vagabond and Summer ABOVE: Red Morwong. BELOW: Manta Ray Manta Rays visit Julian Rocks on occasion, Dusky Butterflyfish (Chaetodon auriga, C. As the water temperature however the end of summer vagabundus and C. flavirostris) are some starts to reach its maximum in and early autumn seems to be of the species common at Julian Rocks. early January, Leopard Sharks their preferred time of the year. By the way, don’t cross into the territory of (Stegatosoma fasciatum) ERITH ISLAND’S WEST COAST ANCHORAGE. PHOTO: GARY MYORS the Girdled Scalyfin (Parma unifasciata) aggregate at Julian Rocks. Other Sharks and Rays as those little farmers are fierce in Very little is known about The most commonly observed Travel south and discover Tasmania’s protecting their algae patches. these prehistoric looking and shark around Julian Rocks is rocky reefs in clear water. Do not miss the Of course everybody knows the mysterious sharks. They mainly the wobbegong shark. Three famous Kelp Forests and immerse your- anemonefish, which live in symbiosis with lie together in small groups different species have now self in this completely different world with their anemone. At Julian Rocks a number on sandy patches and can been identified and they are a myriad of species, such as seahorses, of different species can be encountered, be easily recognised by their present all year round. crabs, stingarees and Weedy Seadragons. The Dwarf Ornate Explore the off shore islands and swim Wobbegong only grows amongst wrecks that have been there to one metre and is the over a 100 years. These waters are rich in smallest species. It is observed nutrients and without even trying you will regularly in the shallower find rock lobsters, abalone, leatherjackets, waters, draped over a sponge perch, handfish and morwong. ■

MAXI ECKES. UNDERWATER.COM.AU or table coral. The larger Ornate Wobbegongs are round forehead, pale skin with leopard- not as common in this area like spots and their characteristic tail. as the other two species. It has only just Leopard sharks are egg-laying sharks, recently been decided that this is a but no egg cases have ever been found separate species from the Dwarf Ornate near Julian Rocks. Much of the biology Wobbegongs and they can grow up to of the leopard shark is still unknown including where the individuals found at Julian Rocks go in winter and whether the same animals return to the few known

Around mid December the anemonefish start laying their bright orange eggs. Interestingly, the eggs are cared for mainly by the male, RIGHT: Frog, Planula

36 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Numbray Electric Another ray species seems to have found a Byron Bay travel meeting place at Julian Rocks as well. The Numbfish (Hypnos monopterygium), also called Electric Ray, becomes visible in higher num- bers during the beginning of autumn in March. Normally they bury themselves in the sand and wait for their prey to swim past, but during this time they actively swim around in the shallows. This behaviour has been observed during the same weeks of the year for many years at Julian Rocks and has not been reported elsewhere. These odd-looking rays have specialized mus- cles located on their back which can generate a significant electric current (50 amps, with peak of pulses sometimes exceeding 1 kilowatt). Not only Art resembles nature or nature does the Numbfish use this to stun their prey; it resembles art... ABOVE: Traditional three metres in length. Stingray (Dasyatis kuhlii) is believed can also seriously deter any predators. dot on dot technique used by The similar looking Spotted to be a solitary species, these rays Julian Rocks’ reefs are also home to the Aboriginal artists to create vibrant Wobbegong can be distinguished seem particularly active in summer White-spotted Eagle Rays (Aetobatus narinari), designs. LEFT: Close up of a seastar BELOW: Diver greets Leapardshark. from the Ornate Wobbegongs by and can be found in the shallows, the Sparsely Spotted Stingaree (Urolophus (image from Fido Reef) its colour patterns, which consist piling on top of each other in the paucimaculatus), the Eastern Fiddler BOTTOM IMAGES: Wobbegongs of broad dark saddles and the sand. Hundreds of Blue Spotted Ray (Trygonorrhina fasciata), the Eastern distinct circles formed of groupings Stingrays can be observed in very Shovelnose Ray (Apytychotrema rostrata), the DOUG ANDERSON – UNDERWATER.COM.AU of small white dots. Most of the tight groups in the same area, usu- Giant Guitarfish time the wobbegongs lay at the ally in early to mid January which (Rhynchobatus Most of the time the (Myliobatis australis). And if you are bottom and feeding occurs mainly could be interpreted as mating djiddensis) and very very lucky you can witness spectacular at night. Their prey includes fish, behaviour. occasionally the wobbegongs lay at the schools of up to 200 Cow-nose Rays crayfish, crabs and octopus. Southern Eagle Ray bottom and feeding (Rhinoptera neglecta) that sometimes Closely related to the sharks are pass by Julian Rocks. the rays, most of which occurs mainly at night. are regulars at Julian Their prey includes Marine Turtles Rocks. Although One of the big attractions when visit- the Blue fish, crayfish, crabs ing Julian Rocks must be the friendly Spotted and octopus. sea turtles that live here. Julian Rocks is home to three different species: the GERARD BRAITHWAITE – UNDERWATER.COM.AU Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas), the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) currently experiencing serious threats to their and the Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys survival. imbricata). Not many people know that adult Green All three marine turtle species are Turtles are unique among sea turtles in

37 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Blue Groper

Rocks therefore not only attracts travel divers, many people that have never ever that they have a completely snorkelled in their life come vegetarian diet and feed on out here to swim and snorkel seagrasses and algae, whereas with turtles… and some of them Hawksbill Turtles feed mainly on will turn into divers eventually invertebrates like sea squirts and anemones. Cephalopods Most divers know that The rocky reef provides an ideal close for comfort they will try to make Loggerhead Turtles can reach habitat for many Cephalopods— themselves look as large as possible enormous sizes. One very large literally meaning head-footers— by extending their arms and rapidly Loggerhead seems to call Julian which include octopus, cuttlefish flashing colours are displayed often as Rocks its home. Its size indicates and squid. a warning. that it must have been around Several species of octopus Another member of the for a long time! The lifespan of a have been sighted on the reefs cephalopods, the squid, is seen around Loggerhead turtle is estimated to around Julian Rocks. Generally Julian Rocks only occasionally. be 50 years or more and adults shy creatures these invertebrates Like the other cephalopods they grow to an average weight of prefer to crawl into their burrow use a specialised foot called a siphon, about 100 kilos. Equipped with when they feel threatened, which enables them to hunt and powerful jaws they can crush holding shell fragments and rubble escape quickly by expelling water crabs and molluscs and even in front of them. under pressure. the spines of a sea urchin are no The cuttlefish around Julian defence. Rocks can be found hovering Pelagics and Predators Even though turtles are very just above the ocean floor, and Marine life does not only come to much at home underwater they usually move around in pairs find shelter at Julian Rocks, food is are in fact reptiles and need to When cuttlefish feel threatened abundant here attracting schools of go the surface to breathe. During they initially might try to blend in streamlined predators. Pelagic hunters resting periods they can stay with their surroundings and almost such as Mulloway (Argyrosomus submerge for long periods of time. disappear from sight. They are japonicus) and Yellowtail Kingfish If they become more active they true masters of camouflage. If (Seriola lalandi) are fast swimmers that will need to return to the surface approached too can be found regularly in the deeper more often—which is why turtles waters around Julian Rocks. Other are very commonly seen pelagics include Big-eye Trevally or by snorkellers. Julian Jacks, as well as Golden and Blue-fin Trevally. Occasionally barracudas pay a visit to the rocky reefs and can be seen in small schools out in the blue. Hunting closer to the reef are the spectacular lionfish. Several species are observed in this area including the Common Lionfish (Pterois volitans), the Dwarf Lionfish (Dendrochirus brachypterus) and the Spotfin Lionfish (Pterois antennata). It is common diver knowledge that Lionfish have extremely venomous dorsal fin spines, but they are generally not dangerous to approach.

38 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel

Detail of a sea anemone Dusky Flathead

Lionfish prey on a wide variety of equipped with razor sharp teeth. you can hardly see where you are smaller fishes, shrimps and crabs. The wide open jaws are generally going. They have few predators in their not a sign of aggression, the gape Byron Bay and Julian Rocks offer a native range. Their prey, which is is necessary for respiration as unique environment that celebrates hunted mainly at night is obtained water has to be actively pumped and nurtures diversity, abundance with a lightning quick snap of the across the gills. During the day and colour and is considered one of jaws and swallowed whole. most morays are found in crevices Australia’s top 10 dive sites – and of Several species of moray can and holes affording protection course our number ONE. be found at Julian Rocks, including from predators and allowing them In addition to the amazing wildlife the Abbot’s Moray (Gymnothorax to strike at prey from a hidden that can be encountered at Julian eurostus), the White-eyed Moray position. Rocks, this diving site also has the (Siderea thyrsoidea), the Green Besides the animals mentioned advantage that it is only a short Moray (Gymnothorax prasinus), already there is plenty more boat ride from the shore. You can the Mosaic Moray (Enchelycore to see such as the playful Blue do up to four dives a day, but it is ramose) and the Sieve-pattern Gropers, bullseyes, fusiliers, Old also possible to do just one or two; Moray (Gymnothorax cribroris) Wives, Harlequin Ghost Pipefish, leaving plenty of time to relax and Moray eels can look quite Pineapplefish hiding under ledges, enjoy Byron Bay or explore the sur-

YANN SAINT-YVESfearsome, as their mouths are Sergeant Majors, Barred Soapfish, rounding national parks and villages. cowry shells, Diving is done on a small scale a variety and there are only two dive shops of brightly in town, which ensures that the dive coloured sites are never crowded. nudi- branchs, Getting there and plenty Apart from the obvious driving of other there, there are two airports nearby: molluscs, one at Ballina (20 minutes south) crayfish and and one at Coolangatta - Gold an array of Coast (40 minutes north). Regular smaller crus- flights from all Australian capitals taceans. and some international flights into Sometimes Coolangatta. Shuttle busses from there are so Brisbane airport for those from further many fish afield. More info from Planula Divers Retreat – www.planula.com.au. Thorny Devil, Please view videoclips to this story at Moloch www.byronunderwater.com ■ horridus 39 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED South Australia

JOHN SMITH - UNDERWATER.COM.AU GEORGE EVATT - UNDERWATER.COM.AU Hydroid bearing reproductive polyps and hosting a family of Amphipods Red Indianfish

Time to chill at Bondi Beach BRENTON DEAN Text by Richard Vevers and photos by George Evatt The area west of Adelaide is well known Sydney Harbour Despite their bizarre appearance, for the appearance of the magnificent Diving in Sydney is like drink- over twice as many species in the har- of it’s accessibility, so why isn’t its div- Weedy Seadragons are actually pretty Great White Shark, King of the Sea, ing beer, it can take a while to bour within sight of its famous Harbour ing equally famous? It certainly has the difficult to spot. There are only about 20 Predator Extraordinaire. This experience is than in the entire British Isles. marine life to justify it. A typical exam- at Bondi Beach and they blend in per- not for the fainthearted or the impatient. get used to but once you get The secret behind Sydney’s, marine life ple is the Weedy Seadragon—one of fectly with the kelp—which seems com- Luckily, there are other sites to safely the taste for it, you’re hooked is its proximity to the continental shelf, the world’s most amazing creatures. pletely ridiculous after you spot one and dive amongst encrusted pylons, rocky for life. It can be cold, it can bringing with it nutrient rich water and Growing up to 45cm, it is related to the then consider how brightly coloured reefs and sponge gardens, harbouring have poor clarity, but you’ll be a vast array of visitors including several seahorse, but as its name suggests, it they are. cephalopods, seahorses, spidercrabs, tropical species caught up in the East looks like a dragon, complete with blue Even if you don’t get to see the the Leafy Seadragons and soft corals. hard pushed to find anywhere Australian Current coming down from the stripes and yellow spots. How can a Weedy Seadragon on a dive at Bondi, Visit Whyalla where huge numbers of the in the world with Great Barrier dragon living on the world’s most famous there’s no shortage of other bizarre Giant Cuttlefish aggregate to mate and such great diving Reef. beach not be famous itself? The fact is, life to look at. The giant cuttlefish is a spawn. Just off Adelaide discover his- a stones through Bondi even the majority of locals don’t know favourite. Its ability to change shape tory and dive the HMAS Hobart, which Beach it exists. In virtually any other country, and colour in an instant is impressive now lies upright at a depth of 30 metres. from your office in epitomises everyone would be aware of this beauti- on its smaller cousins, but when you are Kangaroo Island, just off shore from the city. the diving ful creature, but Australia is so spoilt with faced with a group of cuttlefish all over Adelaide, offers plenty of opportunity to Australia is renowned in Sydney. incredible wildlife that it gets ignored. a metre in length, imitating their sur- find the Leafy Seadragon. In the state’s for its tropical diving: Visited by east, discover diving with a difference seeing Nemo on the millions of and plunge into the fresh water lakes, Great Barrier Reef, people sinkholes, cave and caverns at Mount schools of sharks in the each year, Gambier. Besides the thrill there is also Coral Sea, manta rays it is arguably some life in the crystal clear lakes such and the majestic whale the world’s as yabbies, eels, lobsters, and pygmy shark on Ningaloo Reef, most famous perch. ■ so it is not surprising that beach. A the diving in cooler waters goes largely beautiful surfing beach, within 15 minutes unnoticed. Especially diving in a major of the city centre, it is home to the oldest city, which is rarely a priority for divers. surf lifesaving club in the world. However, Yet the temperate waters of Australia despite its high profile, only a handful of boast one of the most diverse marine people ever check out what lies beneath ecosystems in the world—an amaz- the waves. ing underwater world that few ever Bondi Beach has become world explore—Sydney is at its heart. There are famous as a surfing beach because

CLOCKWISE: Polyp, Diver spots red coral, Mosaic Leatherjacket, Sydney Opera. INSET: Old Wives RON WALSH - UNDERWATER.COM.AU 40 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Sydney Bridge; Anemonefish guarding anem- one; Stargazer; Sydney Opera House travel Bondi Beach at night mately 500 of these sharks left in Australia and you feel very privi- leged to be able to get up close and personal to these harmless rare large sharks. Sydney is the oldest settled city in Australia and its coastline and waterways are littered with wrecks of every description; some the result of maritime misfortune and IAN PENFORD -UNDERWATER.COM.AU others that have been purposely scuttled. In Sydney Harbour alone there are more than twenty-five you can swim through the funnel and known wrecks and offshore there come out through a hole in its side. are an even greater number. Diving in Sydney surprises virtually eve- Although many of these vessels lie ryone. Once you get used to the colder in water depths only accessible water (16 to 24°C) and the lower visibility roundings as the swell takes them from strip of sand. JOHN NATOLI – UNDERWATER.COM.AU to technical divers, others are in than the tropical diving up north, you’ll sand to rock, the image is mesmerizing. However, Bondi is not shallower waters just metres from find the experience unique. The sheer The Wobbegong, a three-metre even considered the best shore dive site man-made shark nets. Tell anyone on shore. diversity of life in the temperate waters Carpet shark, aptly named for its ability in Sydney—there are many other con- the beach about them and they’ll think One of the most popular is the means that there are always new things to look and act like a kitch 1970 carpet tenders. The more popular sites include you’re crazy. Coolooli—a large wreck scuttled off to discover. In fact, despite being in a is another local favourite. It lies on the Shelly Beach and Fairlight in the northern Bare Island is a personal favourite—one Long Reef. An old bucket dredge that major city, even in the harbour there are bottom motionless until an unsuspecting beaches, Camp Cove and Gordon’s of the most scenic shore dives. It has now lies on her side on a sand bed in new species waiting to be discovered diver swims too close and Bay on the eastern harbour many of the same species as Bondi but 48 metres off long reef. This dive has and named. is shocked to suddenly Diving in foreshores, Bare Island—a with a few stunning additions including something for everyone and begins at For more information, please contact see the seafloor bust into small island on the northern the red indian fish that looks exactly like 36 metres. The wrecks superstructure is Richard Vevers at: www.underwateraus- action. Sydney surprises foreshore of Botany Bay—and a red indian chief and the elusive blue intact and it is possible to penetrate vari- tralia.com.au ■ Other marine life seen virtually everyone Shiprock, in Port Hacking. devil fish that never ceases to amaze ous areas. For the more adventurous, regularly at Bondi Beach Manly, the other great divers. They live in a surreal landscape include piles of a dozen or surfing beach of Sydney, like consisting of bright orange and pink more Port Jackson sharks having their Bondi is also typical of Sydney’s amazing sponge. afternoon siesta (a shark that can’t bite marine life. Ten metres off the crowded Although the shore diving is excellent, you but can give you a nasty sting from harbour beach, in three metres of water, sometimes it is great to get on one of its horm), large bull rays, fiddler rays, lives a colony of 200 seahorses on the the dive boats in Sydney and get out to octopus, schools of squid and some of the other dive sites. Almost all the large sex-changing, bright of the 30 odd dive facilities either own, blue grouper that follows you or have on permanent charter, a dive around like a puppy. Then there boat—capable of carrying anywhere are the balls of stripped catfish between six to twelve divers. Whales and that you can swim through (if dolphins are regular visitors to Sydney you dare—their poison never and frequently appear alongside dive leaves your body if stung), the boats and even the occasional giant large schools of salmon tuna sunfish makes a trip in close to shore. and kingfish that form a perfect One of the most popular boat dive barrel around divers, brightly sites is Magic Point—a fabulous dive that coloured nudibranchs, big red starts off at a large amphitheatre with an stonefish… the list goes on. They overhang that goes back under the cliff. all live a few hundred metres This is where the endangered Grey Nurse from the 35,000 oblivious topless Sharks cruise by. There are only approxi- sun-worshippers on this famous Frogfish 41 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Tasmania

BoundText by Gary Myors For Adventure Photos by Baron and Gary Myors and Karen Gowlett-Holmes

One look at the prognostic Our destination, the Kent Group of We threw off the lines late the weather chart told me that we islands, was north west of our departure next afternoon and motored to the point, Inspection Head at the mouth of mouth of the Tamar and into Bass would not sail on schedule. The the Tamar River in northern Tasmania. Strait. The wind was still a gusty 25 forecast was for 30 knot north- The vessel of the brigantine Windeward knots from the North West but was westerlies with gusts to 45 knots Bound had taken aboard a motley forecast to swing west, then South throughout the night and for the crew organized by Christian Bell, the West hopefully giving us ideal sail- Tasmanian Co-ordinator of the Marine ing conditions early next day. We next 24 hours. and Coastal Community Network. We were divided into groups under had eight divers out of a full complement the supervision of the experienced crew to stand watch during the journey. Many of the new crew and some of the old fell victim to the poor sea conditions, which the skipper Brian Parry-Adams rated, by chunder factor. My watch was the middle watch from midnight to 0400 and it was an experience that I’ll remember forever. The moon was nearly full and on the bow, bathing the ship and the heaving sea in silver light for all of my four hours at the helm on the opened quarter deck. The clear cold sky and the fresh wind that combined with the natural light show made standing at the helm pass rapidly. I became aware for the first time in many years of just how insignificant we are when nature chooses to display her charms. All too soon it was time to crawl back into my warm bunk and catch some sleep. Nudibranch graces the dark coral reef of twenty four, twenty five if you counted Several hours later, I re-emerged LEFT: Traveling to the Kent Group Marine Oscar the ships dog. to find the wind had changed Reserve the old world way aboard the The aim of the voyage from my point and the square sails had been set wooden brigatine Windeward Bound of view was to video and photograph as creating a new feeling to replace much of the marine life and historic ship the magic of the wild night with a wrecks as possible to help with the crea- superb morning with ideal sailing tion of the Kent Group Marine Reserve. conditions. Several of those who

42 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED ‘The DVD Engraving of the ‘BYRON SS Bulli in its glory days Tasmania UNDERWATER - where tropical travel and temperate to make an effort in case the weather near NE Island and was forced deteriorated in coming days. We had to return to West Cove. The crew waters merge’ two small inflatables aboard and we tried to save the ship by throwing is now avail- assembled the smaller of the two first. It the cargo overboard this however able from www.under- was able to deliver us one at a time onto failed and the ship was aban- water.com.au the wreck, which sits upright on a sandy doned. The crew of 26 landed on bottom in about 17 metres of water. Erith Island and later with the help The SS Bulli laden with coal and bound of the lighthouse keeper, signaled for Launceston had taken shelter from a passing New Zealand steam- heavy southerly weather on the after- ship the SS Tararua which rescued noon of the 28th June 1877. The weather the crew and transported them to cleared that evening and the master of Melbourne. the vessel recommenced his journey. The wreck is marked on all current Filmed by Tim Hochgrebe Edited by Andrew Bambach Unfortunately, the vessel struck rocks charts and being 180 feet (54 metres) Directed and produced by PLANULA and In Your Face Productions Soundtrack by Simon Perroni (former DO3) and Bhakta. Release date: 10 December 2006. DVD: 58 minutes, full narration, multi region PAL format Take a marine journey through the seasons of Byron Bay to encounter an amazing kaleidoscope of life with the latest DVD release from Planula Pro- ductions and In Your Face Productions. Byron Bay is unique and reknowned for its increadible diversity and “A truly beauti- abundance ful piece of work, of marine life extremely profes- caused by its sional with excep- water tempera- tional animal tures and cur- behaviour and a rents changing wealth of origi- throughout the nal natural history year. records ... “ On the reel, Neville Coleman you’ll see mat- ing octopus, hunting wob- begongs, massive schools of pelagic fish such as kingfish, mulloways and trevallies. Nature celebrates in astonish- ing abundance of life at Julian Rocks where tropical and temperate currents ABOVE: Erith Island’s converge, to form this unique environ- LEFT: Anthropod West Cove anchor- ment. Over 1000 dives and hundreds of age hours of film over six years went into this hadn’t been able to crawl from their bunks Steamship Bulli production. to take turn on watch began to appear This vantage point was most suitable LEFT INSET: View The DVD ‘Byron Underwater - where green faced into the fresh air as the weath- from my point of view as the wreck of the of the stern of the tropical and temperater waters merge’ er mellowed and our destination material- steamship Bulli was only 50 metres from us wreck of the SS Bulli is now available at underwater.com. ized on the horizon. Almost 24 hours to the and although almost sunset Mick Baron, au FREE SHIPPING WORLDWIDE offer minute since departing Inspection Head, Graham Collins and I decided to gear up good from now until end of 2006. Extra the anchor plunged through the glassy sur- and go for it. My theory was that we were features: Byron Underwater—a musical face of West Cove on Erith Island. already one full day behind and needed journey, Cape Byron Marine Park zoning plan, Marine Passions DVD trailer. ■ 43 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tasmania Island near a place we called The SS Karitane was bound Indian Head. This was a deep wall for Port Kembla and Sydney in dive that took us to 35 metres. It December 1921. She carried was another of those dives that, copper ingots from Mount Lyell should the chance arise, I would mine, timber from Burnie and not hesitate to repeat. Clouds of produce from Devonport. While Butterfly Perch swarmed around steaming across Bass Strait, she us almost blocking out the sun on encountered thick fog and some occasions. Several Old Wives, crashed into the rocky head- a big bull seal and spectacular land on the southeast corner invertebrate life kept us spellbound of Deal Island. Captain Spain for nearly 40 minutes. Our fear assessed the damage and of being swept away in the cur- chose to beach the vessel in rent that passes through Murray Squally Cove about two miles Passage was unfounded although from where she first struck.

Shipwreck of the Karitane

long is easy to locate as its shape is visible is stunning with some of the most colorful from the surface. The current in the area is invertebrate life in the region. I did three strong and inexperienced divers should be dives on the Bulli and still didn’t get all the supervised carefully. The ship is extemely video footage I would have liked. photogenic; the stern makes a wonderful The next morning, Mick and I decided silhouette. The interior forward of the boilers to dive on the southwest corner of Deal

The fantastic fronds of a Lionsmane jellyfish

blown to bits by the enthusiastic salvors led by the Johno Johnstone (of Niagra Gold fame). The ship has very little in the way of artifacts as it has had a pretty good going over since 1921 and is shal- low enough to allow snorkellers to dive most of it easily. From the boilers to the stern is the most photogenic area with ABOVE: Strange forms of a Ctenophor the stern laying starboard side down on LEFT: Schooling fish hover over a garden of sponges and corals a sandy bottom. If you want good pho- tos, warn the other divers to stay off the Stuart Lennox, our boat watch, had We moved the Windeward Bound to bottom as the sand stirs up very quickly. trouble finding us. Eventually, we Squally Cove on the south side of Deal This is a dive for all levels of diver if were retrieved and returned to the Island and located the wreck easily, as there is no swell. Just remember that the ship none the worse for wear. part of the bow is visible on the shore. weather can change very quickly and Originally 247 feet (73m) in length, the make returning to a safe anchorage dif- SS Karitane remains of the ship lies with the stern in ficult. The fish life around the wreck was Thursday’s plan was diving another 12 to 15 metres of water and can be inspirational and includes species that historic ship wreck, the 1,376 ton SS seen easily from the surface of the clear are not found further south plus many Karitane. water. Unfortunately, the vessel was others that are not found further north. It

44 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tasmania were many interesting night critters to see and just having the lights and camera strobes fir- ing made the whole scene seem like something out of the X-Files. At one stage, while under the ship, I noticed that the mast head and deck lights cast a silhouette of the whole ship onto the sandy bot- tom. The masts and people walking on deck cast their shimmering ghost- like shadows down through the clear mill pond calm water. It was a dream like feeling as we sank towards the bottom and focused on the job of finding the small creatures of the night. Port Jackson shark I rose early on Friday to see and photo- Free swimming anemones graph the sunrise and wasn’t disappoint- ed by the dazzling light show provided of fish. All too soon we had to leave this not as bad as it sounds as far as deco The crew of the Windward Bound enjoy a moment over the waves by the location and the vessel. The main amazing dive site and head up into real- stops go as the fish life, including a good dive of the day was to be another deep ity for a deco and safety stop. This was size Port Jackson Shark, kept us occupied was a real mixing pot and offered many on Erith Island, four of us elected to do a one this time on the north- great photo and video opportunities. night dive in the sea grass bed near the east side of Erith Island, Owing to a later than normal first anchorage. For me, this was a disaster which was more or less just dive and the necessity to move the of a dive with first my video light failing, around the corner from Windeward Bound back to West Cove then my video battery going flat. There where our ship lay. This was another awe- some dive Mick and I fol- lowed the almost barren bottom down to 33 metres and along the sand edge into a world of brilliantly colored encrusting corals, sponges and thousands

Gary Myors with Port Jackson shark 45 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A carpet of golden Zoanthids bloom on travel red sponge

Graceful pink jellyfish dances in the deep

KAREN GOWLETT-HOLMES Advert for the remainder of our dive. it was back to the business This was our last night at of heading home. The return Erith Island and first light on trip overnight to the mouth of Saturday morning saw us cir- the Tamar River was unevent- cumnavigating Deal Island ful and very pleasant if not to catch the beautiful soft a little sad. We had made morning light on the eastern some very strong friendships, side of the island. Then off to done some world class diving, the west to Judgement Rock and had a week the likes of seal colony. While most of which usually happen only in the divers had a swim with adventure documentaries. the seals, I shot some top-side footage from the rubber duck New Marine Reserve and Mick did the diving. Then As a result of the work done

KAREN GOWLETT-HOLMES

on this expedition and fol- lowing work by Christian Bell from MCCN the Tasmanian Government made the announcement in 2005 declar- ing the Kent Group of Islands a Tasmanian marine reserve. It is our hope that we will return to Bass Strait to continue the saga and broaden our knowledge of the dive sites in this magnificent group of islands. ■

A garden of sponges and soft corals decorates the reef 46 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Western Australia

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Tail end of the whaleshark; Divers Western Australia try to keep up with a whaleshark; Underwater photographer Text and photos by Paul and Kelly Waghorn encounters schooling fish; The ubiquitous emu in the desert

Divers the world over can be ize diving pack- Ningaloo for a beach or dive site to one- divided into two groups, those ages based Traditionally Ningaloo Reef has self becomes more likely. Diving who would like to visit Exmouth on experi- been referred to as having a ‘sea- is great all year round, as long as and Ningaloo Reef and those ence, budget son’, being somewhere between divers are prepared to be flex- who would like to go back there. and seasonal April and July. This is largely due ible and make choices based on Of course, this could be said of diving condi- to the desire of many visitors to conditions and local knowledge hundreds of highly promoted, well tions. Exmouth coincide their visit with the pres- provided by local operators and managed tropical diving destina- is not a place ence of Whale Sharks which visit internet weather forecasts. The tions offering resort facilities, reli- where divers can Ningaloo to feed during these word is also out that whale sharks able diving conditions and top expect exciting months. The weather during this aren’t the only reliable ‘big’ ani- notch service, and herein lays the nightlife, shopping period is generally considered mal at Ningaloo. difference. Exmouth is remote, or a large selec- milder and more bearable, Options for diving Ningaloo facilities are basic and conditions tion of restaurants. particularly for European Reef from Exmouth span several are unpredictable, however the The allure lays in travellers who find the 40°C locations. Not all can be dived marine life is abundant, the reef the rich, natural days, common through the at all times of the year and are is highly accessible and the area resources of the summer months, unbear- heavily dependent on wind, is largely pristine. Ningaloo Reef is region, which are able. However, the prefer- swell, currents and tides, all of a place where divers can experi- currently under con- ence for the ‘season’ is which the Ningaloo Reef are at ence a diverse range of depths, sideration for World becoming less obvious as the mercy of. However, due to marine life, topography and vis- Heritage Listing, most more visitors arrive to take Exmouth’s location of the North ibility and patronise genuinely significantly Ningaloo advantage of the less busy West Cape peninsula, at least local operators who can custom- Reef! months, where the chance

47 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Ningaloo Reef The Ningaloo calendar November- January: Turtles mating in the Shallows and nesting in the evenings. Sharks mating and nursing in shallows. (Good diving unless cyclone) February- March: Baby turtles hatching, baby sharks in shallows. (Good Diving unless cyclone) March- July: Whale Sharks on West Coast June- July: Manta Rays feeding/ cleaning on West Coast June- August: Humpback Whales West Coast and time underwater are better ‘cattle truck run’ due to expenses, protected by the shallow inner August- November: spent by working with the condi- logistics and time. However, the lagoon. The Whale Sharks congre- Humpbacks in Gulf tions. This may well be the reason discerning diver with a few Aussie gate on the west coast, feeding divers come back time and time dollars to play with will always find on the nutrient rich waters dur- Pilot Whales, Minke Whales, dolphins, again, in the hope that the Indian an operator willing to negotiate a ing ‘the season’ and there are dugongs, manta rays, orcas and other Ocean will allow them access to private, customised charter. opportunities to dive both inside ‘big’ animals appear sporadically visit a different, wondrous part of and outside of the lagoon. The throughout the year to the delight of Ningaloo Reef of each visit. And Lighthouse Bay Referred to deeper water outside the back divers and crew- anything can hap- given time it will… as ‘Local Reef Diving’ by opera- of the reef has some interesting pen on Ningaloo Reef! The following is a brief tors, is a 30 min boat trip from the country, ranging from steep walls description of each of the boat ramp at Bundegi Beach. to huge overhangs and swim areas of Ningaloo Reef acces- This is considered the ‘bread and thrus in15- 25. At certain times one side is partially protected sible to divers from Exmouth. butter’ diving of Exmouth due to of the year, these swim thrus fill from the prevailing conditions. In Unfortunately, even if conditions close proximity, reliable marine life up with glass fish creating ‘bait a perfect world, divers could visit are conducive to diving the more sightings, numerous dive sites, and cracks’. The bait cracks attract all each location during their stay, remote areas, often operators shallow depths. Dive sites include types of pelagic fish, schools of but the reality is that their money won’t deviate from their local ‘Blizzard Ridge’, the Labyrinth, Trevally, Rankin cod, sharks, snap- Gulliver’s, Eldorado’s and the Fish per and bull rays. The outcrops Hole. These are huge limestone are also permanent homes to outcrops, which appear like oases huge sea turtles, friendly potato in the sand, attracting thousands cod and lazy wobbegong sharks. of fish of all sizes and regular Unfortunately big, constant swells appearances of sea snakes, limit the number of clear days on turtles, manta rays, sharks and the west coast, but there is some colourful nudibranchs. Most of deeper ground that has more the dive sites here are in an easy reliable visibility although nota- 8-15m depth, and allow for long, ble less life. The inside of the reef relaxing dives and great light and also delivers some great diving colour. to those that can overcome their contempt for shallow diving. The West Coast lagoon has a maximum depth of The West coast is where the 9m and has provides great snor- actual exposed; fringing reef kelling opportunities, however the runs parallels to impossibly white advantage of being on SCUBA COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Snorkelers swim with a whale shark; the sandy beaches, whose shores are and being able to remain sub- islands of Ningaloo Reef; Gaping jaws of a whale shark

Nudibranch 48 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED COUNTER CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The sea splits a gorge into the rocky desert plateau; Western Guitarfish with remoras and cleaner wrasses; Ningaloo Reef travel Octopus on reef Australia The North West of Western Once at the Islands, there is usually Islands have experienced significant fish- Australia is remote, but you can experience somewhere sheltered to dive, however ing pressure over the years and stories of an untouched coral habitat that is visited conditions are unpredictable and heav- huge cod feeding frenzies and bommies by less than 200 divers a year—the Rowley ily affected by wind, swell and current. choc full of jumbo crayfish are becom- Shoals! Imagine 400-meter drop offs, diving Visibility is rarely exceptional at the islands, ing harder to believe. Unfortunately, this while surrounded by wrasse, other colour- due to the constant movement and the is also the reason why local diving opera- ful fish and schools of pelagics such as powder find sand of the seafloor being tors have declined marine park manage- mackerel, tuna and trevally. Further down constantly tossed into the water column. ment offers to install moorings at heavily is Ningaloo Reef, which is just as spectacu- Seasickness and poor visibility aside, the dived locations. The reasoning is that for lar as the Great Barrier Reef and offers an Islands do provide an awesome oppor- the small amount of coral destroyed by impressive combination of marine life, such tunity to explore some wild country. The anchor damage, leaving the dive sites as Dugongs, aggregation of Whalesharks strong currents make this an ideal place unmarked will minimise the loss of fish life and schools of Manta Rays. Around Perth for soft coral s and sponges to live and from the area. you will find magnificent Marine Parks the colourful gardens stretch out as far with a mixture of tropical and temperate merged allows for excellent light filled stretching towards sheltered clear water, as football fields. There are swim thrus Bundegi Reef marine life. Just south of Perth, limestone photos with brilliant colour. Life includes fringed by shallow coral reef. The Muiron that wind from 5m to 12m and some BIG Bundegi Reef is the “get out of jail card’ reefs have formed an astounding under- chevron barracuda, lagoon rays, schools Islands are a little different. Pronounced pelagics! Kamikaze mackerel and tuna for local operators, although ask any water landscape with swim-throughs and of puffer fish, colourful reef fish and even ‘Myoo- rons’, these Islands are recognised fly overhead, while curious manta rays Exmouth locals and dive crew and they caves. Access Rottnest Island from here a dugong slinking by. as the most Northern boundary of the inspect divers’ bubbles. Lazy nurse sharks will tell you that it is one of THE most and explore the whole range of dive sites Ningaloo Marine Park. The Islands take rest in caves and BIG cod appear from underrated dive sites of Exmouth and no available. Further down, you can’t miss to Muiron Islands around 50mins to reach from Exmouth nowhere. The Islands are a place for BIG less spectacular that the Eastern sites on dive Busselton Jetty as well as a few awe- For most divers, the term Island con- and the crossing is not always appeal- things and the best piece of advice here the Muiron Islands. Bundegi reef is rec- some wrecks including the Swan and the jures an image of lush green palm trees ing to divers susceptible to seasickness. is to look up! Unfortunately the Muiron ognised by coral reef scientists as having Lena. Still considered Australia but really much closer to Indonesia, are the exotic Christmas and Cocos Islands. Envision your- self in a tropical paradise with nothing else to worry about other than floating weight- less amongst colourful fish and corals. ■

49 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Northern travel Exmouth Navy Pier Territory

UNDERWATER.COM.AU

Not very well know for its diving but it is definitely worth it to check out the wrecks scattered in Darwin harbour, remains of a mined to return Bundegi reef to its former Australia and one of the top ten Pier Japanese air raid in 1942. Find an abun-

MEGHAN STEUDLER – UNDERWATER.COM.AU glory. The larger boulder corals which dives in the world- and with good reason! dance of reef fish darting around trucks, survived the cyclone are like huge apart- The pier has been closed to fishing for rifles and a Harley Davidson. Take a trip one of the highest coral recruitment rates ment blocks, filled with fish and animals a number of years all the life has been out to the Fenton Patches Artificial Reef in the world and has been deemed a at every level. Bundegi reef is “busy” with left to grow and breed. As a result, the with it reefs formed by tires, confiscated productivity hotspot. This is hardly surpris- fish. Reef sharks, turtles, sweetlips, coral water beneath the Pier is filled to the Chinese fishing vessels, bus stop shelters, ing as it is nestled between the nutrient trout and Spanish flag can be found loi- brim with fish of all sizes and species. The barges and concrete pipes now har- rich Exmouth Gulf, (the lifeblood of the tering amongst the bommies and manta max depth is around 10m, providing an bouring tropical reef fish and schools of area) and the Ningaloo Reef. The dives rays will glide past later in the year. easy dive and allowing plenty of bottom Jewfish. North of the Gove Peninsula you here a shallow and need to be timed for Bottom scratchers enjoy diving Bundegi time. Entries are from the shore or a giant can find Barramundi, turtles, Whalesharks, slack tide or executed as a drifts. When reef due to never ending species of nudi stride from a platform and dives need Manta Rays, Trevally and Barracuda. ■ category five cyclone Vance hit Exmouth branchs which crawl past as well as tri- to be made during the window of slack Gulf in 1999, a lot of the coral here died ton shells, flatworms, sponge crabs and tide. Due to tidal movement, visibility on either as a direct result of being pounded other critters. Although night diving isn’t the Pier is rarely exceptional, however by storm surge or being smothered by the offered by most operators in Exmouth, the trade of is that the sheer abundance turbid water and silt. A lot of this dam- Bundegi Reef offer’s something of life requires the diver to look little more age is still visible, however the reef special after dark action- than 5m for the next breathtaking sight! is recovering at an impressive rate most notably the Despite low visibility the dive is easy to and it is fascinating to observe the coral spawn- navigate and is a photographer’s dream, new corals reaching ing which with life everywhere and seemingly una- up through skele- occurs, fraid of divers. Huge, curious estuarine tons of dead seven to ten cod follow the groups of divers over the coral, days after top of wobbegong and white tip sharks deter- the first full moon sleeping on the bottom. Sea snakes wind in March. through the coral encrusted pylons and frog fish stare out from the discarded pip- Exmouth Navy Pier ing which litters the sea floor. Thousands The world famous Navy Pier stretches of trevally swim laps close to the surface TOP TO BOTTOM: Diver peers through a school of out into Exmouth Gulf and is next door to and elegant lionfish hang suspended in reef fish; Abundant soft coral decorate the reef Bundegi Reef. The Pier has been rated the water column and most divers exit housing numerous reef fish species; Bannerfish as one of the top ten dive sites in the the pier completely exhilarated and and reef fish; Sea turtle chases jellyfish UNDERWATER.COM.AU

50 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Great Barrier Reef in a nutshell Australia Text by Michael Arvelund, PhD Whale watching, anyone? (SOURCE: THE AUSTRALIAN GOVERNMENT; and coral cays. It includes some 2,800 quoise sea, the casual and aloof DEPARTMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND HERITAGE. individual reefs, of which 760 are nature of both the local people SEE ALSO: WWW.DEH.GOV.AU/HERITAGE/WORLD- fringing reefs. These reefs range in size and marine life. They come back HERITAGE/SITES/GBR/VALUES.HTML) from less than one hectare to more because there is nothing plastic, The Great Barrier Reef, one of Australia’s than 100,000 hectares, and in shape micro managed, strategically first World Heritage Areas, was inscribed from flat platform reefs to elongated marketed or consumer driven on the World Heritage List in recognition of ribbon reefs. about Ningaloo. The life is there its outstanding natural universal values: The Great Barrier Reef provides and the diving speaks for itself. • as an outstanding example represent- habitats for many diverse forms of No five stars, no performance, just ing the major stages in the earth’s evo- marine life. There are an estimated a box of chocolates- you never lutionary history; 1500 species of fish and more than know what you’re gonna get! • as an outstanding example represent- 300 species of hard, reef-building Wags and Kelly live, work and ing significant ongoing ecological and corals. More than 4,000 mollusc spe- breath the Ningaloo Reef. They biological processes; cies and over 400 species of sponges have dived and filmed the reef • as an example of superlative natural have been identified. extensively and their high defini- phenomena; and Other well-represented animal tion footage has appeared in • containing important and significant groups include anemones, marine documentaries, DVDs and on habitats for in situ conservation of bio- worms, crustaceans (prawns, crabs SOUTHERN CROSS UNIVERSITY IN LISMORE, NSW televison around the world. Their logical diversity. etc.) and echinoderms (starfish, sea Breaching Humpback Whale passion is for educating people urchins etc.). The extensive seagrass beds about the underwater world and It is the world’s largest World Heritage are an important feeding ground for the determined to dive it again. Night nurturing a love and respect for Area extending 2,000 kilometres and cov- dugong, a mammal species internation- dives on the pier are equally the ocean. They have produced ering an area of 35 million hectares on the ally listed as endangered. The reef also amazing and are offered to several underwater DVDs and north-east continental shelf of Australia. supports a wide variety of fleshy algae advanced divers when tides are continue to add to their archive Bigger than the entire area of Italy, it is that are heavily grazed by turtles, fish, sea conducive. year after year as Ningaloo Reef probably the best known marine pro- urchins and molluscs. The reef contains Ningaloo is exposed, unpredict- continues to surprise and delight tected area in the world. The Great Barrier nesting grounds of world significance able and pristine. It is one of the them with new creatures and Reef’s great diversity reflects the maturity for the endangered green and logger- few places with world where you behavious year after year. They of the ecosystem, which has evolved head turtles. It is also a breeding area can visit and dive are highly active over hundreds for humpback the exact same Come during the in assisting local of thousands of whales, which dive site three researchers with years. It is the come from dives in a row and winter and you are whale sharks, turtles world’s most the Antarctic see something dif- virtually guaranteed to and other marine extensive coral to give birth ferent on each. It encounter the biggest life and vocal on reef system and to their young is a place where local conservation is one of the in the warm you can sit at 14m fish on earth issues arisng on world’s richest waters. and just ‘be’ with Ningaloo Reef. They areas in terms of The islands a turtle, or share a also run their own faunal diversity. and cays sup- cleaning station with a manta ray small diving charters for expe- The Great port several three meters across and weighing rienced divers and are sought Barrier Reef hundred bird 700kgs. after by film crews and profes- World Heritage species, many Come during the winter and sionals to help capture the best Area contains of which have you are virtually guaranteed to of Ningaloo Reef. more than just breeding colo- encounter the biggest fish on More pictures on Ningaloo coral reefs. It MARK THOMPSON - UNDERWATER.COM.AU nies there. Reef earth. Come during the summer reef can be found here: www. also contains School of Big Eye Trevally herons, osprey, and observe a sea turtle orgy. ningalooreefteach.com/pictures/ extensive areas of pelicans, frigate Divers around the world come page1.htm seagrass, mangrove, soft bottom commu- birds, sea eagles and shearwaters are back here because Ningaloo To contact Wags and Kelly, nities and island communities. Contrary to among the numerous sea birds that have gets under their skin. They are please visit hdvunderwater.com ■ popular belief, the reef is not a continuous been recorded. seduced by the red dirt and tur- barrier, but a broken maze of coral reefs (CONTINUED ON PAGE 52) ► Serene azure waters at Heron beach YANN ST. YVES 51 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A Taste of the Cocos

Text and photos by Karen Willshaw (Keeling) Islands

For many, this question still arises: Still not sure where it is? Well, draw a “Where the heck is the Cocos line from Perth in Western Australia to Sri Lanka and then a horizontal line from (Keeling) Islands?” and more Darwin and where the two lines meet than likely they proceed to look is approximately where this tiny horse- for Cocos in the Pacific Ocean. shoe shaped atoll is located. By the WRONG! Now I have to confess, I way, Charles Darwin visited the Cocos (Keeling) Islands in 1836 aboard the HMS am one of those geographically Beagle, and it was during this visit that he challenged people. After grab- developed his theory of atoll formation. bing the ever trusty and very He spent some time exploring the south- COUNTER CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Divers dusty atlas that had been deeply ern atoll and also visited the northern explore the reef around the Cocos Islands; atoll some 24km further away. In his pub- fan corals and lacey soft corals grace the buried since school days and lication on coral reefs in 1842, he was the ledges of the reef; An octopus stands on its after much searching, I found this first to propose the theory of reef forma- arms in an upward stretch tiny speck in the middle of the tion and evolution, building on his discov- ery of coralline fossils in inland areas and Text and photos by Karen Wilshaw Indian Ocean. in mountains earlier in the journey and his visit to the islands. That theory, which is still held as valid, explains the dynamics of the three principal categories of coral formation. Before moving to Cocos, I was a non- diver. So, after a few months of being land-locked, it became obvious that I really needed to learn to dive. That was nearly seven years ago. My open water sessions were conducted in pool-like conditions at Direction Island, one of the most beautiful islands in the atoll. Here, whilst taking my first fin strokes and learn- ing to trust the reg, endless schools of small fish came in close to investigate this clumsy noisy bubble blowing human. My first 18-metre dive was conducted at the Cabbage Patch, and this is the first “taste of Cocos” I am going to share. The Cabbage Patch is one of my area well over 500 metres square and is water background, it really is an unbe- favourite dives and I suppose, as it was home to a myriad of fish life. Thousands lievable sight. my first experience seeing the extraordi- of Goldenback Anthias (Pseudoanthias The corals end around a depth of 18 nary colours the underwater world has, evansi) and Ternate Chromis (Chromis metres. From there, the scenery changes it remains etched for life. Huge stands ternatensis) use the leafy formation of this to a rocky substrate before ending on a of pristine golden and green Turbinaria hard coral as their refuge. When the sun- pure white sandy beach adorned with reniformis, Cabbage or Salad corals, light hits the anthias and the cabbage red whip corals. Indian Ocean Bannerfish adorn the steep drop-off. It covers an coral, it literally glows golden. With a blue and Golden Damselfish appear to have

52 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED (THE GREAT BARRIER REEF, CONTINUED FROM PAGE 50) The World Heritage property is also of cul- The Australian Cocos Islands tural importance, containing many middens Government travel and other archaeological sites of Aboriginal and State or Torres Strait Islander origin. Some Government notable examples occur on Lizard and have a coop- Hinchinbrook Islands, and on Stanley, Cliff erative and and Clack Islands where there are spec- integrated tacular galleries of rock paintings.There approach to are over 30 historic shipwrecks in the area, management of and on the islands are ruins and operat- the Great Barrier ing lighthouses that are of cultural and Reef World FIONA LIGNUM - UNDERWATER.COM.AU historical significance. Heritage Area. About 98 per cent of the World The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority Heritage Property is within the Great (GBRMPA) is the Australian Government Barrier Reef Marine Park, the remainder agency responsible for overall manage- being Queensland waters and islands. ment, and the Queensland Government, The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park was particularly the Queensland Parks and Wildlife declared in 1975 with the purpose of Service, provides day-to-day management to truly looks like a ski slope, falling gently preserving the area’s outstanding biodi- the Authority. Integrated management is also at first to get your confidence before versity whilst providing for reasonable use. assisted by: a Commonwealth Act specifically it drops steeply into an endless abyss. This has been achieved using a spectrum for the Marine Park that, if necessary, provides It’s another favourite for the photog- of zones ranging from General Use Zones to over-riding powers; complementary legislation ABOVE: Dugong. TOP CENTER: rapher, as this is critter heaven. Here, Preservation Zones. In very broad terms, these for most adjoining State waters; formal agree- Dugong and dolphins. LEFT INSET: you can spend weeks and never really zones allow ecologically sustainable activi- ments with Queensland, and with various Coral reef fish see all of what it has to offer. There ties, but all have an overriding conservation government departments, industry, research are bombies dotted here and there objective. Most reasonable activities such as institutions and universities; and strategic zon- This little guy has its eggs lined that have treasures of marine life that tourism, fishing, boating, diving and research ing plans and site-specific management up on an old strand of wire I am only just beginning to discover. are permitted to occur but are controlled plans. coral and is very photogenic Dotted over the snow-like slopes, the through zoning and management planning GBRMPA’s current work program stems and extremely co-operative bombies are covered in soft leather to minimise impacts and conflicts with areas from four issues that have been identified as while he protectively guards his corals, porities, Lobophyllia and deli- of high conservation value and other users. being critical for achieving adequate protec- eggs. It’s just one of the many cate sea ferns. Within these bombies, Today, the great majority of the Marine tion and management of the Reef in the short fish friends I like to check on with their many hidey-holes are Durban Park is still relatively pristine when compared to medium term: water quality and coastal claimed these whips as their piece regularly to see what has changed in Dancing Shrimps with coral development; fisheries; tourism and recrea- of paradise. Travelling slowly along the family. (Rhynchocinetes dur- reef systems tion; and conservation, biodiversity and world the slope, the coral comes to an Returning towards the boat at a banensis), Yellow-mar- elsewhere in heritage. end and opens up to a lovely white shallower depth, the enormity of the gin Morays, Juvenile the world. An sandy chute—home to hundreds of Cabbage Patch becomes apparent. Emperor Angelfish, independ- Further reading curious and shy Spotted Garden Eels It truly is a spectacular dive site with its nudibranchs and thou- ent report Driml, S. 1999, Dollar values and trends of (Heteroconger hassi). Great to watch, most amazing marine inhabitants. sands of tiny glassfish published in major direct uses of the Great Barrier Reef hard to photograph successfully. The Ski Run, as the name suggests, just to name some of 1997 con- Marine Park,Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Whitetip Reef sharks are often the marine life. During cluded that Authority, Townsville, Qld. found sleeping on the sand my last dive, our dive the Reef is in Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority 1994, —now these are great to group discovered good condi- The Great Barrier Reef--keeping it great: A 25 capture digitally as they tend three different species tion and is year strategic plan for the Great Barrier Reef to allow you a close encoun- of tiny pipefish and an being man- World Heritage Area. ter before slowly moving off. indescribable tiny see- UNDERWATER.COM.AU aged effec- Lucas, P. H., Webb, T., Valentine, P. S. and Just a little further along through shrimp. tively. These Marsh, H. 1997, The outstanding universal the corals change to another Each time I go to are also the value of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage greenish hard coral, Porites the Ski Run, I rarely fail to see octopus findings of two major workshops to which Area, Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority, rus, a prostrate type of coral and usually it’s not just one, but several. over 100 scientists and management experts Townsville, Qld. with fingerlike formations. They are amazing to watch, particu- contributed. Both these workshops have now Wachenfeld, D. R., Oliver, J. K. and Morrissey, Here, I like to visit a very larly when hunting with the scavenger been summarised in the report titled State of J. I. 1998, State of the Great Barrier Reef World friendly Golden Damselfish. mates, the Bluefin Trevally or Goatfish. the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area Heritage Area, Great Barrier Reef Marine Park 1998, released in November 1998. Authority, Townsville ■ Lizardfish 53 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Cocos Islands

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A pair of Trapezia crabs share a shelter in the hard coral; Fusiliers school in a blue mass; Blacktip sharks slither along a shallow bed of a lagoon

turtles, tuna and barracuda that are regularly seen, or the unusual and gen- tle dugong, Kat, who made Cocos his home some 4 years ago. The diving I can spend hours with these guys (and it is here at around 35 is extremely diverse and caters to the sometimes my entire dive is with the metres (and sometimes majority of divers, whatever their interest. occy’s). Once they realise you aren’t deeper) a very unique Crowds are not an issue as Cocos Dive going to interfere, they happily allow you angelfish is found, is the only dive operator. Between their to accompany them on their hunt. the Ornate Angelfish two vessels, Putri Laut and Sayap Kecil, But, I must move on from the shallows. (Genacanthus bellus). Rarely seen, let somewhere. However, the female’s unu- heaps of time off gassing whilst exploring. the maximum number of divers they If you are a deep dive junky, then the Ski alone photographed, these gorgeous sual markings and colouration is most The Cabbage Patch and Ski Run are cater to is sixteen, with preferred num- Run can cater for you as well. Heading fish have the most tenacious character, beautiful. Obviously, at these depths, just a miniscule taste of diving on the bers from four to ten. down the kiddies’ slope, the terrain drops swimming towards you most defiantly bottom time runs out pretty quickly. Cocos (Keeling) Islands. There are over For more information contact: sharply into a steep canyon with beau- before taking cover under one of the However, as most of the smaller bom- 30 regularly dived sites and hundreds Dieter Gerhard, Cocos Dive, at tel. +61 8 tiful healthy stands of Gorgonian Fans ledges. I have only seen the females and bies and their hidden treasures are at 10 more to discover. I haven’t even men- 9162 6515, www.cocosdive.com or email and Whip Corals adorning its sides. And can only assume the males are around metres and shallower, you can spend tioned the mantas, sharks, dolphins, [email protected] ■

54 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT: Close up of the lacey coun- tanance of the Leafy Sea Dragon BOTTOM CENTER: Close encounter The Vanishing Dragon Text by Carly Maple with a dragon When cameraman Brenton interest many, especially an and is told by those who know it Dean first approached me a entire documentary on what best. Prepare to lose yourself in a is, the larger cousin of a sea beautifully shot film and learn more few years ago, about writing about a dragon so majestic in a wildlife documentary script horse. But 4 years later, the nature and appearance… the van- that would tell the life ecol- completion of the documen- ishing dragon. ogy of leafy sea dragons, I tary that we would come The making of... thought, “an entire hour on to name, “The Vanishing “The Vanishing Dragon” took well the one sea creature?” That Dragon,” would be seen over a year to completely research would absolutely bore peo- and heard by more people and write. Little has been recorded ple to sleep right?! I had only than we ever anticipated about these creatures, and infor- mation is very hard to find. The only just got my scuba diving and even begun to imag- way to properly research them was ticket and my diving experi- ine. Having screened twice duction. After a courting dance to visit them and study their behav- ence was little to none. The already Australia wide on that can continue up to weeks at a iour in their own environment. The the National Nine Network, time, it’s the male that will eventu- documentary reveals information, leafy sea dragon is the state ally fall pregnant once the female which has never been recorded marine emblem in South to now being distributed has deposited around 250 eggs before. For example, the incubation Australia, where we both live internationally by National onto his tail. For the next 5-6 weeks, period… it was believed that leafy and our filming production Geographic, it seems the the father will spend his time buried sea dragons took only 4-6 weeks deep in the thick kelp meadows to hatch the eggs. But this isn’t the company; ‘Abyss Pictures’ entire world has a fascina- of the ocean floor and protect his case. The male carries the eggs for is based. And the thought of tion with one of our biggest young relentlessly from predators. a period of about 7-8 weeks, and filming a creature in our own secrets downunder. This is an Eventually the father will give birth as the eggs begin to turn a ripe pur- backyard was something insight into the documentary and the eggs will drop. ple, he drops them all in 24-48 hour Sadly, only 5% of the newborn period. But the eggs don’t just drop that I thought really wouldn’t on leafy sea dragons… will survive to reach maturity of 2 off, he aids in the babies hatching years of age. Once born, the tiny by shaking his tail, causing the eggs prints and cm long dragons are highly suscep- to jiggle. Also, he rubs his tail gently Vanishing Dragon DVD its own environment. are unique tible to predators. But surprisingly, against seaweed and rocks as an “The Vanishing Dragon” (a For scuba divers, the chance to each and these predators are not the biggest aid in dislodging them. Such infor- winner at the Japan Wildlife of seeing one of these ‘medi- every drag- threat to the species. The sea grass mation as this, has been corrected Film Festival 2005) is a visually eval’ creatures in the wild, is to on. loss along the southern coastline of and the documentary is full with spectacular 52’ wildlife docu- travel to the southern coastline In terms Australia is astounding. Effluent dis- new and exciting information and mentary based on perhaps of Australia. One of the drag- of sexing posal and stormwater run off have footage. the most camouflaged of all on’s most favourite of homes is dragons, the been killing off the sea grass along Cameraman and Producer, ocean creatures; the leafy under Rapid Bay Jetty situated easiest way this coastline for years. The degra- Brenton Dean, spent summer after sea dragon. Unique to the on the Fleurieu Peninsula in to tell is dur- dation of sea grass not only affects summer under Rapid Bay Jetty in rugged and fierce coastline South Australia. Under this par- ing breed- the leafy sea dragon, but is the ini- South Australia attempting to cap- of Southern Australia, the deli- ticular jetty there are known ing season. tial feeding ground for all creatures ture the breeding and the egg cate leafy sea dragon resides. to be over 30 breeding pairs The leafy that live in the ocean. All sea crea- transfer in the wild. He has been fol- In order to survive in such a and another 15 individuals that sea dragon tures rely on it. lowing one pregnant male leafy sea hostile environment, the leafy haven’t yet paired up for mat- belongs The underwater world makes up dragon in particular over the eight sea dragon relies completely ing. Because of their tremen- to the over two thirds of our planet. To pre- week course of incubation. This is the in its ability to mimic a piece of dous ability to camouflage, serve this world and the creatures only recording ever, of a male leafy seaweed. The leafy append- the leafy sea dragon is hard to er, is to take a close up photo of Syngnathidae family, and just like its that live in it, means the sea grass sea dragon giving birth in the wild. ages placed on the head and find. Not to mention, they all their head and compare it to other cousins, the weedy sea dragon, sea- must flourish like it once did before. “The Vanishing Dragon” DVD is body of the sea dragon mean look the same. The only way to photos the white markings on their horse and pipefish, it’s the male that This is a story about a dragon that available for purchase from under- that it can perfectly blend into tell one individual from anoth- face and snout, are just like finger has the extraordinary role in repro- symbolises all of these creatures water.com.au ■

55 X-RAY MAG : 14 : 2006 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED

- UNDERWATER.COM.AU factAustralia file ÁKOS LUMNITZER

▼ Map of Australia

PAPUA NEW GUINEA Arafura Sea History About 40,000 years ago, South Australia, Tasmania, Victoria There are lim- aboriginal settlers arrived on the and Western Australia. It has several ited natural Timor continent from Southeast Asia. In dependent areas including Ash- fresh water Darwin Great Barrier Reef INDIAN Gulf of Coral the 17th century, the first Europe- more and Cartier Islands, Christmas resources. Carpentaria Sea ans began exploration. Formal Island, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, OCEAN Cairns territorial claims were first made Coral Sea Islands, Heard Island and Economy in 1770, when Capt. James Cook McDonald Islands, Norfolk Island, A Western- Townsville took possession of the land in the Macquarie Island. It is the world’s style capital- Port Hedland Delicate spiral forms of the Christmas worm. INSET: Tiger anemones name of Great Britain. In the late smallest continent but sixth-larg- ist economy Dampier Mackay 18th and 19th centuries, six colonies est country with a majority of the with a per Alice Springs were created which federated population concentrated along the capita GDP Gladstone and became the Commonwealth eastern and southeastern coasts. on par with Lake Eyre of Australia in 1901. Rich in natural Perth, on the west coast, is affected the four dom- Brisbane resources, the new country began by the invigorating tropical sea inant West to rapidly develop agricultural and breeze known as the “Fremantle European Perth Newcastle manufacturing industries. The coun- Doctor”. It is one of the most consist- economies Fremantle try made a major contribution to ent winds in the world. Coastline: keeps Aus- Great Australian Adelaide Sydney the British effort in World Wars I and 25,760km. Terrain: mostly low pla- tralia eco- Bight CRANBERRA Mount II. During the past century, Australia teau with deserts and fertile plains nomically Melbourne Kosciuszko has transformed itself into an ad- in southeast. Lowest point: Lake competi- SOUTHERN Tasman vanced, internationally competi- Eyre,15m. Highest point: Mount Ko- tive. What’s OCEAN Launceston Sea tive market economy. Due in large sciuszko 2,229m fueling the Tasmania Hobart part to economic reforms in the economy? 1980s, the country boasted one of Climate is generally arid to semi- Rising domes- the OECD’s fastest growing econo- arid. It is temperate in south and tic output, mies during the 1990s. Long-term east and tropical in north.Natural robust consumer and business con- tungsten, mineral sands, lead, zinc, 15.3% (2001 Census) Decompression Chambers concerns include pollution, ozone hazards: cyclones along the coast, fidence and rising exports of agri- diamonds, natural gas, petroleum. Wesley Hospital (07) 3371 6033 layer depletion, and conservation severe droughts and forest fires. cultural products and raw materials. Agriculture: wheat, barley, sugar- Languages English 79.1%, Chi- The Alfred Hospital (03) 9276 2269 and management of coastal areas, Environmental issues: industrial de- Key factors include low inflation, cane, fruits, cattle, sheep, poultry. nese 2.1%, Italian 1.9%, other lan- Royal Adelaide Hospital especially the Great Barrier Reef. velopment, urbanization, soil erosion Australia’s emphasis on reforms and Industry: mining, industrial and trans- guages 11.1%, unspecified 5.8% (08) 8222 5116 Government: federal parliamentary from overgrazing and poor farming growing ties with China. However, portation equipment, food process- (2001 Census) Royal Darwin Hospital democracy. Capital: Canberra practices, rising soil salinity due to drought, weak foreign demand, ing, chemicals, steel (08) 8922 8888 the use of poor quality water, de- and strong import demand inflated Currency Australian dollar (AUD); Fremantle Hospital Geography Located in Ocean- sertification. Clearing for agriculture the trade deficit from $8 billion in Population 20,264,082 (July 2006 Exchange rates: 1 USD= 1.31 AUD, (08) 9431 2233 ia, Australia is a continent between threatens natural habitats of many 2002 to $17 billion in 2005. But Con- est.). Ethnic groups: Caucasian 1 EUR=1.67 AUD, 1 GBP=2.48 AUD, 1 Royal Hobart Hospital the Indian Ocean and the South unique plant and animal species. servative fiscal policies maintain 92%, Asian 7%, aboriginal and other SGD=.84 AUD (03) 6222 8308 Pacific Ocean. It is made up of six The Great Barrier Reef off the north- Australia’s budget in surplus from groups1%. Religions: Catholic 26.4%, Prince of Wales Hospital states and two territories: Australian east coast is the largest coral reef 2002 to 2005. Natural resources: Anglican 20.5%, other Christian Internet Users 14,663,622 (2006) (02) 9382 3880 Capital Territory, New South Wales, in the world and is threatened by bauxite, coal, iron ore, copper, 20.5%, Buddhist 1.9%, Muslim 1.5%, SOURCE: WWW.CIA.GOV Townsville General Hospital Northern Territory, Queensland, increased shipping and its tourism. tin, gold, silver, uranium, nickel, other 1.2%, unspecified 12.7%, none (0)7 47962080 ■

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