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To Download The Inside West Cork: d Smart Sweater Shopping A Worl d A p a rt A pro’s tips on where to find best deals on woolens..............3 n Clare’s Secret Peninsula a Loop Head, near Shannon l Airport, is very old-world........4 m o Just Beyond Dingle c e . Slea Head Farm lets you relax s t r amid spectacular scenery.........5 c a A Culinary Classic I f Ballymaloe House offers n elegant country style and a new u t f menu every day......................6 d s The Last Harbor n a Cobh has a complex relation- l e ship with the sea.....… .............7 e r i 51 Races and Great Hats Too Sheriff M annion & M iss G ay Sugar O il Galway’s racing festival in m w August is a celebration for lov- o r ers of horses and fashion.........8 F h Fun Facts: Southwest Ireland t Ring forts, yacht clubs and the “the devils box”....................10 Schull, Mizen Head and Cape Clear have a local u Favorite Beds feeling and “big country” scenery Southwestern accommodations By M aeve T ynan in all price ranges..................11 o he environs of Schull, near Ireland’s southwest corner, are a County Clare’s Best M usic great refuge for the weary brain. Poets, writers, composers and T A professional recording artist S artists have flocked to this area for years to re-charge and wash away tells which pubs have it..........12 the grime of modern life. W ith rugged, mountainous scenery more reminiscent of the W ild W est than the green slopes of Eire, this cor- The W orld’s New Hometown f ner of W est Cork still offers a warm, community feeling, in spite of How to enjoy this high energy getting a fair number of tourists in the summer months. A recent trip university town.....................15 o to Schull, nearby M izen Head and Cape Clear Island revealed a qui- Ballybunion eter side of Ireland. The ultimate Irish links..........16 Schull town is a pleasant tourist stop that’s kept an element of t charm, even though it has been slightly “sanitized” a bit over the The Golf W idow’s Pleasure e years. Once a place that would shut down for the winter months, its W here to indulge yourself while s h off-season population has been boosted by the arrival of people from your spouse swings away.......17 T overseas, who now make their homes there year-round. e W ildflowers and Solitude W e arrived at Schull around midnight, after a 5-hour drive from The Burren’s subtle charms...19 Dublin (it’s about an hour and a half from Cork City, on the N71). The continued next page B “You've got to do your own growing, no matter how tall your grandfather was.” - Irish Proverb 2 HEE Wild West Cork continued from previous page) main thoroughfare of the old town was quiet, though we spied a few chinks of light peeping out from behind curtains. Truth be told, we were lost. Inching through the near-impenetrable black- ness, our car was our car was ap- proached by a ghostly figure. Happily, this specter was most obliging, and soon set us on the right way to Rosbeg Cottage, our abode for the next couple of days. On reaching our destination, the members of our gang who’d ar- rived earlier greeted us with hot food, a roaring fire and a necessary cup of tea. Walk on the wild side There wasn’t time to get too cozy, as Cape Clear Island beckoned. W e were up at the crack of dawn to catch the Bridge to the end of Ireland ferry from Baltimore out to the island. W hen in W est Cork, it’s practically rently unstable, and access to them is Cape Clear, or Oilean Chleire, is Ire- required that you go to M izen Head limited. land’s southernmost inhabited island. and lean over the southernmost tip of W hile you’re on the peninsula, It is also a Gaeltacht, which means Ireland. The signal station at M izen there’s a lot to do. You might want to that the majority of its 140 inhabitants Head was built in 1905 to warn ships stop by one of the quaint little towns speak Irish. It had been a while since of the cliffs in inclement weather. The like Goleen, Ballydehob or Crook- any of us had practiced our “cupla station is on an island, connected to haven. There are numerous beaches in focail,” but we gave it a go. Everyone the mainland by an arched bridge. the area-Barleycove is highly recom- we met was patient with our mistakes, Along its 99 steps, visitors take turns mended. Archaeology buffs will enjoy and seemed glad to talk to us. It’s doing their best “I’m the king of the the numerous structures from the Neo- worth noting, though, that in the sum- world!” Titanic impressions over the lithic, Bronze and Early Christian peri- mer months the place is flooded with edge of the rail. The rocky, mountain- ods that dot the beautiful countryside. teenagers who come to perfect their ous scenery here is spectacular, more Golf and sailing are also popular here. Irish for school exams. like W yoming than what you’d expect Cape Clear is a wild, untamed place Impromptu music to find in Ireland. M izen Head’s visitor with a dramatic, rugged landscape and Back in Schull, we found the pubs hop- center provides extensive information lots of jagged cliffs. Bird watchers will ping. Hackett’s is a particularly good about what to look out for in the area, be in their element, as this is the most bar, and often has live music. I took a including geology, flora and fauna. popular spot in the country for orni- shine to the Courtyard Bar. It’s one of There’s a good deal of information thology. It’s also a place that’s had its those great hybrids, typical of rural offered on the area’s history. Also on share of tragedy. Before the famine of Ireland, with a specialty shop at the the peninsula is Three Castle Head, a the mid 1800’s, the population was front, a café in the middle and a pub series of Tower Houses built in the 15th about 1,200, with most families living out the back. The staff is friendly and century on the site of a Bronze Age off sheep herding, fishing and growing the food is homemade. Needles to say, Promontory Fort. Standing beside a flax. we stopped in more than once during cliff-top lake, these buildings are cur- continued next page 3 www.irelandfunfacts.com Finding the Best Deal on an Irish Sweater—A Pro’s Tips By M onica O ’Brien f you want to find great wool smaller shop in Bunratty, to get some the diverse family weaves, and has I goods in Ireland, I recommend last-minute gifts for aunts, uncles and them all displayed in the familiar off two top sources. One is a world- other assorted relatives. white “ecrue” color. If you visit the famous producer visited by tourist Even in Ireland’s current high-priced Aran Islands, you’ll find a small mu- buses galore, while the other is a less- environment, Blarney M ills offers seum on Inishmore, which also has a known shop with unique sweaters. some great deals on both new and old good exhibit on the history of family On the many shopping tours I’ve Irish designs. I’m often puzzled by sweater weaves. Aran Sweater M arket lead in Ireland, I’ve found my two fa- why some items are on sale, as they also has a wide variety of more recent vorite places to buy Irish wool prod- seem like the best pieces to me. M any designs. M y own favorite is a contem- ucts are Blarney W oolen M ills, which Irish people come in to buy fine busi- porary weave called “Eye of Ireland.” has several retail locations, and Aran ness suits, some of which have fairly The finer points Sweaters in Killarney. trendy designs. But Americans, who Both shops offer three basic types of Blarney W oolen M ills, which has generally favor more traditional pieces, sweaters – machine-made, handloom several retail outlets around Ireland, also find plenty to suit their taste. And and handmade. You can get a nice has a big reputation. Happily, it’s well even if you’re not in the market for machine-made sweater for about 60 deserved. On the annual shopping clothing, you’ll find all sorts of nice Euro. M achine-made garments are tours I lead in Ireland, I always make a runners for your table and other fine consistent – which means the size and bee line to their large store in Blarney linens. arm length is the same on every one. after arriving at Shannon. It has the Another real pleasure for weary Hand loom sweaters are still fairly con- biggest selection of any of their five travelers at Blarney M ills is Christie’s sistent, but generally have a looser stores. Then, before getting on the Restaurant (at the Blarney location), weave. The expensive handmade plane back home, I often visit their where you can get very good scones in sweaters vary greatly, depending on the morning, or a pint of Guinness in the person who’s made them.
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