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HEE

Wild West (continued from previous page)

main thoroughfare of the old town was quiet, though we spied a few chinks of light peeping out from behind curtains. Truth be told, we were lost. Inching through the near-impenetrable black- ness, our car was our car was ap- proached by a ghostly figure. Happily, this specter was most obliging, and soon set us on the right way to Rosbeg Cottage, our abode for the next couple of days. On reaching our destination, the members of our gang who’d ar- rived earlier greeted us with hot food, a roaring fire and a necessary cup of tea. Walk on the wild side There wasn’t time to get too cozy, as Cape Clear Island beckoned. W e were up at the crack of dawn to catch the Bridge to the end of Ireland ferry from Baltimore out to the island. W hen in W est Cork, it’s practically rently unstable, and access to them is Cape Clear, or Oilean Chleire, is Ire- required that you go to M izen Head limited. land’s southernmost inhabited island. and lean over the southernmost tip of W hile you’re on the peninsula, It is also a Gaeltacht, which means Ireland. The signal station at M izen there’s a lot to do. You might want to that the majority of its 140 inhabitants Head was built in 1905 to warn ships stop by one of the quaint little towns speak Irish. It had been a while since of the cliffs in inclement weather. The like Goleen, Ballydehob or Crook- any of us had practiced our “cupla station is on an island, connected to haven. There are numerous beaches in focail,” but we gave it a go. Everyone the mainland by an arched bridge. the area-Barleycove is highly recom- we met was patient with our mistakes, Along its 99 steps, visitors take turns mended. Archaeology buffs will enjoy and seemed glad to talk to us. It’s doing their best “I’m the king of the the numerous structures from the Neo- worth noting, though, that in the sum- world!” Titanic impressions over the lithic, Bronze and Early Christian peri- mer months the place is flooded with edge of the rail. The rocky, mountain- ods that dot the beautiful countryside. teenagers who come to perfect their ous scenery here is spectacular, more Golf and sailing are also popular here. Irish for school exams. like W yoming than what you’d expect Cape Clear is a wild, untamed place Impromptu music to find in Ireland. M izen Head’s visitor with a dramatic, rugged landscape and Back in Schull, we found the pubs hop- center provides extensive information lots of jagged cliffs. Bird watchers will ping. Hackett’s is a particularly good about what to look out for in the area, be in their element, as this is the most bar, and often has live music. I took a including geology, flora and fauna. popular spot in the country for orni- shine to the Courtyard Bar. It’s one of There’s a good deal of information thology. It’s also a place that’s had its those great hybrids, typical of rural offered on the area’s history. Also on share of tragedy. Before the famine of Ireland, with a specialty shop at the the peninsula is Three Castle Head, a the mid 1800’s, the population was front, a café in the middle and a pub series of Tower Houses built in the 15th about 1,200, with most families living out the back. The staff is friendly and century on the site of a Bronze Age off sheep herding, fishing and growing the food is homemade. Needles to say, Promontory Fort. Standing beside a flax. we stopped in more than once during cliff-top lake, these buildings are cur- continued next page

3 www.irelandfunfacts.com Finding the Best Deal on an Irish Sweater—A Pro’s Tips By M onica O ’Brien f you want to find great wool smaller shop in , to get some the diverse family weaves, and has I goods in Ireland, I recommend last-minute gifts for aunts, uncles and them all displayed in the familiar off two top sources. One is a world- other assorted relatives. white “ecrue” color. If you visit the famous producer visited by tourist Even in Ireland’s current high-priced , you’ll find a small mu- buses galore, while the other is a less- environment, M ills offers seum on Inishmore, which also has a known shop with unique sweaters. some great deals on both new and old good exhibit on the history of family On the many shopping tours I’ve Irish designs. I’m often puzzled by sweater weaves. Aran Sweater M arket lead in Ireland, I’ve found my two fa- why some items are on sale, as they also has a wide variety of more recent vorite places to buy Irish wool prod- seem like the best pieces to me. M any designs. M y own favorite is a contem- ucts are Blarney W oolen M ills, which Irish people come in to buy fine busi- porary weave called “Eye of Ireland.” has several retail locations, and Aran ness suits, some of which have fairly The finer points Sweaters in Killarney. trendy designs. But Americans, who Both shops offer three basic types of Blarney W oolen M ills, which has generally favor more traditional pieces, sweaters – machine-made, handloom several retail outlets around Ireland, also find plenty to suit their taste. And and handmade. You can get a nice has a big reputation. Happily, it’s well even if you’re not in the market for machine-made sweater for about 60 deserved. On the annual shopping clothing, you’ll find all sorts of nice Euro. M achine-made garments are tours I lead in Ireland, I always make a runners for your table and other fine consistent – which means the size and bee line to their large store in Blarney linens. arm length is the same on every one. after arriving at Shannon. It has the Another real pleasure for weary Hand loom sweaters are still fairly con- biggest selection of any of their five travelers at Blarney M ills is Christie’s sistent, but generally have a looser stores. Then, before getting on the Restaurant (at the Blarney location), weave. The expensive handmade plane back home, I often visit their where you can get very good scones in sweaters vary greatly, depending on the morning, or a pint of Guinness in the person who’s made them. If he or Wild the afternoon. If it’s not raining, I like (continued from previous page) she has a tighter hand, the weave will to sit in the courtyard with a snack. be tight. If you’re buying for a tall per- the weekend. Be aware that music is, Aran Sweater Market son, handmade is the best, because the in general, spontaneous in Schull – it’s Aran Sweater M arket, on College arms on them tend to be longer. best to keep an eye out for posters in Square in Killarney, is a lesser-known the area announcing sessions for the gem. But it’s the ultimate source if you Blarney W oolen M ills has shops in evening. If you happen to be a student want to shop for a fine Aran sweater Blarney, Bunratty, Dublin, Killarney of the , you might be and learn the fascinating history of and Tipperary. For further info, visit interested in the “seachtain na these garments. The market has a full www.blarney.com Gaelige” (Irish festival), which takes wall covered with the various “Family 011 353 21 451 6111 place in Schull every M arch. W eave” sweaters from the Aran Is- Aran Sweater M arket has two stores: Local Carol O’Donavan told us “I lands. Years ago, each island family College Square in Killarney always felt a part of Schull, perhaps developed their own distinct weave. 011 353 643 9756 because my parents were both buried W hen a fisherman was drowned, his Inishmore, Aran Islands here. Before I moved here I would sweater would often be the only thing 011 353 99 610 11 visit, year after year. Every time I had washed up on shore. The weave would www.clanarans.com to leave, I left a part of me here. It tell a family that their loved one had means that much to me.” M onica O ’Brien runs O ’Brien’s Irish been lost. Aran Sweater M arket has Cottage, a fine Irish gift shop in Sterling M aeve T ynan lives in Lim erick done an extensive research project on H eights, M ichigan

4

HEE C lare’s Secret Peninsula , in easy reach of Shannon Airport, is a haven for outdoorsmen and lovers of quiet, untouched villages

By M aeve T ynan oop Head is one of Clare’s lesser wave. The closest amenities are three spoken. The airport at the other end of L known hideaways. Lying just a miles away in the town of , the river seems far away here. half hour’s drive from Shannon airport which has a post office, shop and a The town’s most dominating land- (via and ), it features a pub (you can also hire boats there). mark is its “tower house” style castle breathtaking coastline, with ranges of The cottage can be rented from The on the waterfront. Built around the end sea stacks rising up 80 metres from the Irish Landmark Trust, for a weekend of the fifteenth century by the M acM a- sea in places, in what seems like an rates of 363 Euro in “mid season” hons, chiefs of the area, its ivied battle- unending battle between the land and (June & September) or a 7-night rate of ments are impressive. The castle has the raging Atlantic. I’m told that some 770 Euro in July and August (no week- five storeys with a vault on the fourth nutters actually climb the rocks here— end rental is available in summer). Call floor and common features of the time the thought of it makes me dizzy. 011 353 1 670 4733 or visit like a “murder hole,” a room just in- The far end of Loop Head peninsula www.irishlandmark.com side the entrance where owners could is a strikingly remote spot, with a dis- After our picnic at this delightful attack intruders from balconies above. tinct “edge of the world” feel to it. A spot, we continued on to the village of Dolphin playground (which means “Rock of whitewashed stands at the A small shingle beach here is pleas- the Fleet”), an historic fishing port, on tip of the head, but there are no shops, ant enough for sunbathing or swim- a fine bay at the mouth of the Shan- no signposts—nothing but birds, wild ming (there are better ones in in nearby non. Carrigaholt is an attractive little flowers and the surf pounding against or Kilkee). But what really town, where a good deal of Irish is the cliffs. continued next page On a recent visit, there were so many shrieking gulls flying around I felt a bit like Tippi Hedren in T he Birds. But sitting down to a picnic was wonderful with the waves roaring below. As it was April, the area was quiet. Just a few other visitors strolled by now and then. If you’re the type who rev- els in this kind of isolation, you’ll be glad to know that the Loop Head lightkeeper’s three-bedroom cottage (right next to the lighthouse) is available to rent. The accom- modation is absolutely tradi- tional: the place has no tele- phone, television or micro-

5 www.irelandfunfacts.com

Loop H ead (continued from previous page) Just Beyond Dingle draws the people to Carrigaholt is dol- Spectacular scenery and a great night’s sleep at Ireland’s phin and whale watching. The Shan- “western-most farmhouse” are only a few hairpin turns away non estuary is the longest sheltered, naturally deep estuary in the country, By Peter G reen and is a playground for bottleneck dol- n most tours of western Ireland, and guesthouse in Ireland,” and fea- phins. A group of over 100 of them O you can count on making a stop tures spectacular views of Dingle Bay. live in the estuary between the Loop in Dingle. But if you’ve got a car and Our room overlooked a beach where Head and Kerry Head peninsulas. The want to escape the tourist bustle, there R yan’s D aughter was filmed. The breeze Dolphin W atch company offers 2- are two great spots very close to Dingle off the water was so strong that, with hour boat trips daily, where you can town where you can relax in a much windows open, we had to remember to learn about the dolphins, sea birds and quieter, more rural atmosphere. keep everything securely put away so local features (call 011 353 65 9058156 Slea Head Farm, in nearby Dun- as not to be blown all over the place. or visit www.dolphinwatch.ie). quin, is relaxing once Best pubs you actually get there. The drive there from The town has great pubs and eater- Dingle, along the Slea ies, and not too many tourists. M y Head Road, is a real choice of pub would be the Long Dock thrill-ride, particularly on W est Street, with its stone walls, for American drivers flagstone floors and warm fires, all of mixing up their lefts and which provide a cozy atmosphere. rights. M y There’s a great selection of seafood – wife and I were particu- the Long Dock has received the “Pub larly amused by the sight Lunch Award” from the Irish Fisheries of full-size buses taking Board. It also has regular traditional hairpin turns beside us, music sessions around 10 pm. with bus drivers waving their arms, The sound of the waves crashing As in most parts of Clare, accommo- pointing out sights to passengers or against the cliffs at night here is mes- dations are easy to find and reasonably singing them an Irish folk song. Per- merizing, giving you a good night’s priced. If dolphin watching is not your sonally, I’ve lost side-view mirrors to sleep like you’ll find nowhere else. thing, you might consider fishing. The oncoming cars on such roads, so I now Slea Head is a working dairy farm Glencarrig B & B and Sea-Angling move off the road altogether when the with about 20 cows. W hen we visited, Centre is an ideal place to fish and stay buses appear. they also happened to have a new (in fact, they have a website called Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) is a small, batch of cute Border Collie puppies www.fishandstay.com). This big old Irish-speaking village. Slea Head Farm running around. As in most homes in house on the beach is located 1þ miles bills itself as the “western-most farm this area, Irish is the primary language, south-west of the village on the Loop but hostess Caitlin will be happy to Head Drive, and can handle parties of sity of scenery packed into a small speak English if needed. Her husband up to 7 fishermen at a time. Owners area. From the limestone flats of the M ichael might nod at the appropriate Luke and M ary Aston are delightful Burren to the boggy landscape near moment, but don’t count on it. hosts (call 011 353 65 9058209). and sculpted cliffs and sandy www.sleaheadfarm.com Loop Head, as striking as it is, is just beaches along the coast, Clare never There are beautiful beaches in Dun- one more of ’s amazing gets monotonous. quin, but only one you can drive to. To landscapes. W hat always strikes me driving around here is the sheer diver- M aeve T ynan is a w riter living in D ublin continued next page

6

HEE Dining in Style

Just Beyond Dingle A Culinary Classic (continued from previous page) Ballymaloe House, in , , offers get to the others, put your car in the elegant country style and a new menu every day village car park, go across a stony grass By R egina Sexton field next to it and then down the nar- f you come in springtime, row lane directly across the street from you’ll find hand painted-signs the village green (it’s denoted only by a I lining the long driveway asking flag pole behind the bench where peo- you to “Drive Slowly: watch the ple wait for the bus!). lambs.” If you visit in summer, the Mountain drive front walls of the country house, If you’re feeling adventurous, take a parts of which date to the 15th cen- drive through the mountains toward tury, will be clad in drooping Cloghane. Along the way you’ll get bunches of mauve wisteria. But in spectacular views of two valleys and a any season, you’ll enjoy some of rugged shoreline. This particular area the finest cooking in Ireland, menu changes daily, it’s hard to de- is still considered sheep country. The served in luxuriant surroundings, at scribe a typical meal. But enduring coastline is sprinkled with mini-cliffs, Ballymaloe House. favorites include bacon chops with with little fingers of land sticking out This is a place of silver service and Irish whiskey sauce, chicken liver pate, between them where you can find starched linen tablecloths, with wait- fish terrine with cherry tomato sauce some stunning secluded beaches. resses dressed in navy blue uniforms and crab and mussel soup. There are also a few art galleries, an- with white frilled aprons. It’s all the Dinner is a five-course affair, where tique shops, beautiful churches and at creation of M yrtle Allen, one of Ire- the greatest delight, for me at least, land’s top opinion-makers on food, comes on the desert trolley. The selec- The sound of waves and on the need for environmentally tion of treats offered goes from ice crashing against the cliffs sustainable food production. cream mounted in an ice bowl to me- M yrtle first opened a restaurant in is mesmerizing ringue roulade with mango and pas- her home in 1964, with an uncompli- sion fruit, jellies of fresh raspberries least one castle along the way. cated, unpretentious approach to food. with fresh mint cream chocolate al- Cloghane town is an interesting mix of This was a novelty at a time when mond gateau. old and new. A number of uninterest- most in Ireland felt grand French cui- Should you be too full to make it ing new stores have been built, but the sine was the epitome of fine dining. home after all this indulgence, you can main shopping area still has its original Her philosophy is explained in the stay in one of Ballymaloe’s quaint charm. If you’re considering this ad- menu: “ It has been our endeavour to guest bedrooms, and have an out- venture from Dingle, be aware that it’s emulate the food of the best country standing breakfast to look forward a full day’s trip, as the drive over the houses in Ireland. To this end we have to as well! mountains will take almost three always gone to our own garden and

hours. But remember, it’s not the dis- glasshouses, into the local butcherÝs Ballymaloe House, which is also a tance that matters, it’s the road! shop and to the pier at to hotel, is about 20 miles east of Cork Dingle is great for pub-walking, but collect our produce. W e write a new City. It is signposted from the main a quick drive out to the end of the pen- menu each afternoon when we see Cork-Rosslare Road. insula is recommended if you want what we’ve got.” Dinner, Euro 65 peace and quiet, and breathtaking In a classic Irish country house style, Lunch, Euro 35 views all to yourself. everything is unfussed, seasonal, local Tel. 011 353 21 4652531 and of the highest quality. As the www.ballymaloe.com

7 www.irelandfunfacts.com

The Last Harbor , one of Ireland’s most colorful, upbeat towns, was once a sad point of departure for millions of emigrants heading west By R egina Sexton

hen Laurel and Hardy came were saved. M any were ferried into ish war and naval efforts. In the mid- W ashore at Cobh in 1953, bells town for medical assistance, while 150 19th century, people became Cobh’s rang out over a din of whistles and of the dead were buried in mass graves largest export. From 1845 (the year the hooters from a flotilla of small boats in the Old Church cemetery just out- Great Famine began) until 1950, over gathered to extend a tumultuous wel- side town. 2.5 million emigrants left from the come. It’s not hard to picture a comic Predictably, there’s a “Lusitania quays at Queenstown (of the 6 million scene like this unfolding in Cobh, a Bar” in the middle of town, and a total who left Ireland in this period). town near Cork City that resembles a “Titanic tour” that goes several times a The townscape is topped by impres- set for a children’s film, with houses day. Real Titanic nuts (including the sive St. Coleman's Cathedral which colored in vibrant yellows, blues, reds editor of this publication) enjoy stop- has a carillon of 47 bells in its tower. and greens rising on steep hill above ping by the town’s the harbor. But Cobh’s cheerful atmos- former post office by phere today belies its history as an the water, which has emigration port, and its often tragic changed little in ap- relationship with the sea. pearance from the days when it was the Hilltop vistas W hite Star Line’s Cobh (pronounced “cove,” for the passenger terminal. cove of Cork), one of those odd spots Cobh’s status as in Ireland with a strong M editerranean the best port in Ire- feeling, is visited by plenty of tourists, land made it impor- but doesn’t seem overwhelmed by tant long before the them. Colorful fishing boats are tied up Titanic passed along the quays, along with the occa- through. The town sional ocean liner. Just about any- lies on Great Island, where in downtown Cobh, you can in what was consid- turn and walk up a hilly street, and ered to be the largest find yourself in a high and very quiet natural harbor in the spot, enjoying a stunning vista of Ire- world until Sidney land’s southern coast. Harbor was discov- It’s easy to see the spot outside the ered. Politics have changed the town’s In the early 20th century, St. Coleman’s harbor, near Roche’s Point, where the name twice. In 1849, British rulers tower was remembered by emigrants Titanic parked to receive 123 passen- dubbed it “Queenstown” in honor of a as the last landmark in Ireland, seen th gers on April 11 , 1912. It was the visit to Ireland by Queen Victoria in from the stern of a ship heading for liner’s last stop before heading out to that same year. It kept that name until America. sea. Three years later, the ocean 1922, when the Free State of Ireland In the early years of the emigration, brought tragedy into the town even was established, and the name was especially during the Great Famine of more powerfully, when the Lusitania changed back to Cobh. 1845-50, many perished on “coffin was torpedoed 10 miles off the Old In the late 17th century the harbor ships” en route to the New W orld. The Head of in M ay 1915. Of was a key point for shipping Irish history of these events is told in the 1,959 passengers on board, only 761 salted beef and butter to support Brit- continued next page

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HEE 51 Races and Big Hats, Too ’s age-old racing festival attracts lovers of fashion, craic and ice cream. The horses are also worth a look... By G eraldine K eane

hough born a Galwegian, I’d be everyone can find something to love blackboards everywhere advertised the T a poor source of tips if you about the festival. Naturally, there’s a hot favorites and odds for each race, wanted to put down a bet at the Gal- large contingent who feel it’s strictly while a chorus of racing jargon in vari- way Races, which take place in early about the horses and the thrill of a ous dialects rang out on the breeze. August. Over the years, I’ve paid little gamble. But many in town have told I had come armed with a few tips, attention to the actual sporting event. me it’s not but neither my But I’ve always enjoyed the charged about the racing friend nor I had atmosphere the races bring to the city. at all, but “the a clue of how to For weeks in advance, the city craic and the place a bet. The streets and pubs are full of racing talk, buzz of the hand gestures as opinions and theories fly on all place.” You and winks of sides. Each horse’s form and forecast is need not be a seasoned bettors researched intensely. Then, Galway’s horse fan to went over our crowded streets seem to change over- enjoy a trip out heads like some night as the summer arts festival clears to Ballybrit Rac- secret language. out to make way for the race festival. ing Park during Fortunately, we The Galway Races are among the the festival. met a man oldest in Europe. The first race day W hen I visited the racing park this amidst the chaos who took time to took place in Ballybrit in 1869, though year, I found weathered bookies of all show us the ropes. W e somehow won racing in Galway can be dated back at ages from all over Ireland, expertly in the first race, and were immediately far as the mid 13th century. It seems tending to the betting process. Small taken by thoughts of quitting work to continued next page The Last Harbor officially opened in 1892 (a similar restored in recent years and is open to (continued from previous page) statue exists on Ellis Island). The mu- the public. Its grounds and gardens are seum’s displays are a reminder that internationally famous, particularly the impressive Cobh Heritage Centre, a Ireland's modern history was a long arboretum. Along the main Cork to converted railway building on Deep- story of departure, until many emi- Rosslare road, you’ll find Barryscourt water Quay -- the point were mail bags grants began returning in recent years. Castle. This 15th century tower house were exchanged between ships and Apart from the town's attractions, of Anglo-Norman design is beautifully trains for decades. The Centre tells the Cobh is also a good base for exploring restored, and open to the public. In the story of emigration from the Famine east County Cork. Located outside of castle's orchard, visitors can see old times up through the glory days of the town, for instance, is Frank Heder- varieties of Irish apples. transatlantic liners. The multi-media man's smokehouse (011 353 21 Cobh and the surrounding area of display is an educational and moving 4811089). Frank produces some of East Cork tell a story that’s a cross- experience, particularly if you have Ireland's finest smoked wild Irish section of Ireland, from the invader to Irish ancestors. In front of the Centre is salmon. Visitors are welcome. About the emigrant, right through to the more a statue of Annie M oore and her two ten miles east is Fota Island, a country relaxed and affluent present. brothers. Annie was the first emigrant estate, wildlife park and country to be processed in Ellis Island when it R egina Sexton lives in Cork. house. Its Regency-style house been

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newed meaning. By night, the city’s streets are thronged with people spill- ing out of crowded pubs into the cool evening air. Hotels can (and do) triple their prices, and extended licensing hours keep the party going on till the wee small hours with jazz bands in all of the bigger establishments. Some find it a bit silly how much focus the event puts on who’s who, how well you look and how much you’ve got to spend. But there’s still something real going on at the track. Even a non-racing fan like me can’t help but notice how the air at the track pulsates with tension. Sweaty palms grip tightly wound betting programs, and the shouting and cheering for become professional gamblers. Three inch of rain fell on Thursday morning. horses can seem to have a life or death losses in a row then brought us down By, afternoon, things had dried up significance. W atching people’s reac- to earth, but we never forgot the joy of enough so that stilettoed fashion plates tions is a sport in itself. Between the an unexpected win. in flamboyant feathered hats could horses and the characters, there’s little make their parade through a special Local reunion room for boredom. And if, by chance, little clearing at the grounds. The Best Galway natives see the event as a reun- you still can’t find something you Dressed M an earns a mere ¤200 shop- ion of friends and family. Older people fancy, the ice cream is pretty good. ping voucher, while the Best Dressed often tell you how they visited the www.galwayraces.com W oman gets her photo splashed across races as children, recalling the ice the next day’s newspapers, overnight cream their parents bought with the G eraldine K eane lives in G alw ay fame (albeit short-lived), and a ¤3,000 day’s winnings more vividly than the shopping voucher. This year, almost horse that crossed the finish line first. 40,000 people attended on Ladies’ M any local businesses give half or Day, and over ¤5 million in bets were even full days off on W ednesday and placed. ¤1 million of that was wagered Thursday – the main days of the event on the Galway Hurdle, making it the - so employees can take part. If you’ve biggest collective gamble on a single grown up in Galway, Ballybrit can feel Irish horse race to date. Overall, the like second Christmas on these days. week-long program of 51 races added W andering the grounds, you’re sure to some ¤60 million to the coffers of the bump into people you haven’t seen in local economy. a while (of course, some prefer to take Galway’s skies hum with a continu- a holiday out of town, to escape the ous stream of helicopters bypassing nightmarish traffic the event creates). traffic below to get their patrons to the Thursday is Ladies’ Day, the main track, and the phrase “more money event for fashion fans. This year, an than sense” seems to take on a re-

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HEE Fun Facts about Southwest Ireland C HC X N T J M N V S G @ S 9

So called “Black Irish” people, who The Drombeg Stone Circle in County At upscale Longueville House in M al- have distinctive black hair, are believed Cork was built around 150 BC. low, County Cork, 5,000 pheasants to descend from a group of Spanish are released onto sailors shipwrecked off County Clare Seaweed was once very widely eaten the grounds each in 1588, and who came ashore at a in Southwest Ireland. Some chefs have year for the pleas- place now known as “Spanish Point.” recently tried to revive it’s popularity ure of hunters. by using it to flavor cheese, among As recently as the early 20th century, other things. Publicans once stocked a It rains about twice as much in the fishermen on the Aran Islands did not seaweed called “dulse” because it’s W est of Ireland as in the east. Clouds learn how to swim, because they be- saltiness worked up a strong thirst come in off the Atlantic heavy with lieved it would only prolong the agony among customers. moisture and tend to release as they hit if they fell into the Atlantic. Ireland’s coast. T he Irish Farm er’s Journal recently The “Puck Fair” is held in Killorglin, stopped publishing it “lonely hearts” The Blasket Islands, off the tip of the , every August. Some section, which was immensely popular , have been uninhab- believe it is a modern variation on the with rural singes for 40 years. The col- ited since 1953, when the government old celebration of Lugh, the Irish god umn is now offered online. According paid the few remaining inhabitants to of light. Others say the fair relates to to the Journal’s editor, “Cupid is go- move to the mainland. The main in- pre-Christian celebrations of a fruitful ing electronic” habitants of the islands are now seals. harvest. “Poc,” the Irish word for a he- down on the farm. goat, is a pagan symbol of fertility. The Feast of St. John, December 27th, Rock n’ roll bassist was once believed to be a “good luck” Scattery Island, near Kilrush, is an Noel Redding, of day for farmers to borrow money to uninhabited outpost with the remains the Jimi Hendrix buy seed for the spring season. of seven churches on band, lived in it. Area residents go and played in a local pub The father of Henry Ford, founder of out each Sunday there each weekend until he passed Ford M otor Company, came to morning to celebrate away in M ay 2003. America in 1847 after being evicted mass in one of them. from his land in Ballinascarty, County The last inhabitants of Virtually all the known photographs of Cork. the island left in 1979. the Titanic were taken by Father Francis Brown, a Jesuit who got on the The intricate stone walls that cover The Irish fiddle, which offered the ac- ship in Southampton England and dis- the Aran Islands were built by farmers companiment for many a wild dance embarked in Cobh, Ireland (then to prevent howling Atlantic winds party, was once called “the devil’s known as Queenstown). from blowing all the soil off the rocks. box” by fire-and-brimstone preachers. There are over 30,000 ancient “ring Allihies, on the , was The oldest known yacht club in the forts” in Ireland, 2,300 of which are in the center of a copper mining industry world is the Royal Cork Yacht Club. County Clare. until the 1930’s. Open mines can still be seen in the hills around the town.

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Favorite Beds

A selection of favorite southwestern accommodations, in all price ranges Top of the high end: Luxurious Glin Castle

- Harbour Sunset Farm - - Berry Lodge - - Glin Castle - , County Clare Spanishpoint, County Clare Glin, County Limerick Extremely kid-friendly farmhouse B&B Delightful country home with just 5 One of the world’s most over-the-top with animals to pet and feed, and music guestrooms. Top spot for golfer’s play- luxury manor homes, where a movie star at night in a parlor warmed by a fragrant ing or , where the is not an unusual sight. Nestled in a huge peat fire. Hostess Bridget is tops, and the spouse isn’t into the game. Proprietor estate, Glin feels like a dream world. The surrounding landscape, including nearby Rita Meade offers great cooking lessons proprietor is the current Earl of Glin. Liscannor village, has a faraway, old- in the afternoon. Very, very expensive world feel. Near the . Rooms are not tremendous, but rates are www.glincastle.com Moderately priced moderate, at 38 to 42 Euro per person. 011 353 68 34173 www.harboursunsetfarm.com http://www.berrylodge.westclare.net/ind 011 353 65 7081039 ex.html - Hanratty’s Hotel - 011 353 65 708 7022 Limerick City, County Limerick - Park Hotel - Classic, very old 3-star hotel with a Kenmare, County Kerry - Adare Manor - homey atmosphere and friendly staff. This large luxury hotel built in 1897 by Adare, County Limerick The “Wild West” bar is a bit wacky, but railroad barrons is set in a huge pastoral 5-Star hotel in a very large castle with a lots of fun. estate, even though you’re practically in huge estate and golf course. Adare town Moderate, about 80 Euro per person the middle of bustling Kenmare when is a postcard-picture collection of 011 353 6141 0999 you walk out the front door. Antique thatched cottages, with great craft and furniture, large rooms and world class antiques shops. - Sea View Guest House - service from an attentive staff. Very expensive, standard rooms start at Allihies, County Cork Expensive around 400 Euro per night Nestled in a great little town at the end of www.parkkenmare.com www.adaremanor.com the Beara Peninsula, the Sea View is a 011 353 644 1200 011 353 61 605200 very well run, pleasant little hotel where you can relax and enjoy the area’s great - Lake Hotel - - Cregg Castle - scenery. Proprietor Mary O’Sullivan is a Killarney, County Kerry Corundulla, ball of energy. Allihies is one of the Pleasant stop-over with stunning views A very different accommodation that’s most peaceful spots on earth. of mountains and lakes. Lots of outdoor more like a family home than a castle- Reasonably priced activities, along with steam rooms, out- hotel (there’s no bar or restaurant, other www.seaviewallihies.com door Jacuzzi and other big hotel perks. than the breakfast room, for instance). Priced in upper mid-range, starting at Cregg’s eccentric, dressed-down atmos- about 135 Euro per person (slightly less phere is likely to result in you spending in mid-week) an afternoon or two sipping wine, laugh- www.lakehotel.com ing and talking with other guests you’ve 011 353 64 31035 never met before by the great hall’s gi- gantic fireplace. Guest rooms are all dif- - Best Western County Hotel - ferent. If you want a private bath, ask for Ennis, County Clare one as not all rooms come with one. Utterly unremarkable but clean, friendly Don’t wast time — rumor has it the cas- and well-kept hotel that’s perfect if you tle may be sold before long! need a long afternoon’s sleep after a Moderate (65 to 85 Euro per person. flight over from the US. Very close to Kids get a discount) Shannon. www.creggcastle.com Moderately priced 011 393 91 791434 011 353 652 8421 Fun at HarbourSunset Farm

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HEE Where to Hear The Best Music Sessions in County Clare

By Julee G laub t’s only one musician’s opinion, from down the road. A ten year old I but I’ve long believed that the real girl who’d won several dance champi- musical heartbeat of Ireland is in onships promptly arrived, and started County Clare. Over the years, Clare dancing around to our tunes (I think has been an extraordinary place for me M r. Coleman was in the habit of call- to find songs for performance, teaching ing her whenever visitors arrived). The and recording. W henever I visit Ire- day seemed to sum up the Irish way of land now (I once lived there for six living in the present. W henever there’s years) I always find myself drawn back live music being played, well, call in to the rich flow of traditional music the dancers and play until you can’t that exists in the “Banner County.” play another note. Clare is full of people who live for Families that play music, from the famous to the un- known. Best of all, they always seem together willing to pass on their traditions freely County Clare has a distinctive style, – even to non-natives like myself. On with a rougher, more slurred style of more than one occasion, I’ve shown ornamentation than other regions. It’s up unannounced at the door of a shared by entire families of music, singer who had a song I was looking dance and song. W henever I meet a for – based on a tip from some fellow fine Clare player, it seems, I find they musician – and been welcomed with come from a long line of musicians open arms. stretching back in their household for and has remained actively involved in One of my favorite visits was on a years. Siobhan Linnane, an acclaimed the music scene there. friend’s flute teacher, a M r. Ned Cole- fiddler in the Ennis area, was brought The best seisiuns man, 10 years ago. I phoned him one up in Clare by singer M aria Linnane A session, or seisiun, is a gathering of Sunday afternoon out of the blue, and and Tommy Peoples, often called the musicians and singers of all ages who showed up less than an hour later with king of the Irish fiddle. Her grand- exchange tunes and songs for hours, a friend, a fine fiddler from North mother was Kitty Linnane, who usually in a pub. You don’t have to be Carolina. Locating his cottage was a started the Ceili Band, one a musician to enjoy a “mighty” ses- real challenge. I recall veering off onto of the first dance bands to gain recog- sion. Listeners are always welcome, a cattle path in my rented car, and then nition outside Ireland. and there’s always a good pint of driving in reverse for about a half-mile Though many of the best players something available to enhance the through big briars to find the place. have left to play concerts or even live experience. M y favorite session in all W e were greeted with a spread of Irish elsewhere, they always seem to come of Ireland has always been at Peppers, tea and sandwiches. W hen we started back to “get filled up again.” Kevin in , County Clare. W henever playing, Ned (then in his seventies) not Crawford, bred and buttered in Ennis, I’ve been there, it’s been standing only jumped right in on his flute, but tours the world with Lunasa, one of room only, and packed with locals. I also decided to phone over a dancer Ireland’s most famous traditional will never forget taking a friend from groups. But he still calls Ennis home, continued next page

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Music in County Clare : The Alders includes many rare Irish CDs. You’ll (continued from previous page) Thurs. - Sun. 011 353 65 32990 find recordings by many local musi- Kilfenora: Linane’s Pub cians and singers you can’t get any- Dublin who, believe it or not, had Sat. & Sun. 011 353 54 88157 where else. A member of the Custy never attended a session in her life. I Kilfenora: Vaughan’s family will no doubt serve you. Every chuckled as she turned to me in the M on.,Thurs. & Sat. 011 353 65 88004 one of them is a musician – don’t be height of the music wafting and the : Daly’s Pub surprised if you hear a music lesson farmers dancing and said, “Isn’t Irish Sat. & Sun. 011 353 065 5005 going on in the back of the shop. Be culture amazing?” I was reminded of Kilrush: Crotty’s sure to ask where the best sessions are, the film W aking N ed D evine, where the Tuesday 011 353 65 52470 or where you might find a local con- Dublin fella is razzed in the country- Kilrush: The Colleen Bawn cert or dance. In addition to re- side for knowing so little about Irish Thursday cordings, Custy’s also sells handmade culture. Peppers, clearly, can impress Lahinch: The Nineteenth bodhráns, books and videos. even an Irish set of ears. Saturday 011 353 65 81414 On Your Car Radio I advise you take in as many ses- : Torpey’s Clare FM , at 96.4 on the FM dial, is sions as you can on your visit to Clare. Saturday 011 353 65 35130 one of the best stations in Ireland, with Here’s a list of the best ones, which a great representation of local music take place every week all year long How to act! you have probably never heard before. (since scheduling can change, it’s ad- A good session can be spontaneous or It’s the perfect companion on your car visable to call before heading to one): planned, in a pub or in a home, with radio as you tour the county. The last

instrumentals or songs. Everyone is time I was driving through Clare, I Bunratty: Durty Nelly’s always welcome to listen in, but there tuned in and heard about a traffic jam Tues. & Thurs. (011 353 61 364861) is a session etiquette. It’s proper to on a country road caused by a sheep. : Turbridy’s Bar wait to be asked to join in, especially Only in Ireland! W hen you return Friday (011 353 65 58107) in regard to singing. Lots of Americans home, you can keep listening on your Crushen: Fogarty’s seem to want to march in and sing a computer at www.clarefm.ie Saturday (011 353 65 27322) song. It’s not a good idea without an Doolin: M cGann’s Songs At the Cliffs invitation from the players. On the Any night 011 353 65 74133 The Cliffs of M oher can, as we all other hand, you must be ready for the Doolin: O’Connor’s know, be a bit crowded with tourists in moment you’re asked. I’ll never forget Any night 011 353 65 74168 summer. One benefit at this time of PJ Hayes, fiddler and father of M artin Ennis: Ciaran’s Bar year, however, is that there’s usually a Hayes, in Peppers Pub, stretching his W ed. - Sun. 011 353 65 40180 local musician playing a harp or fiddle, bow out to where it almost touched Ennis: Kelly’s or even singing on the path up to the my nose, and declaring that the time Sat. or Sun. 011 353 65 28155 Cliffs. I’ve always found this to be a had come for me to “give us a song.” : Colley House real pleasure. If you have time, take Happily, I had one ready to go. Thurs.- Sun. 011 353 65 71712 the cliff walk all the way down to Ennistymon: Daly’s M atchmakers A few other tips on where to Doolin, and you’ll more than likely Thurs. - Sun. 011 353 65 719199 enjoy County Clare’s music: find live music in the town pub any Ennistymon: The Archway A Famous Record Shop time day or night.

Fri., Sat. & Sun. 011 353 65 71080 M y favorite music shop in the world is Julee G laub is an outstanding singer, Kilaloe: Archer Inn Custy’s, located Francis Street in Ennis w ho is about to release her third C D of W ednesday 011 353 61 376108 (www.custysmusic.com). Though its Irish and A ppalachian songs. Find out Kilaoe: Pipers Inn space is tiny, it has a vast selection that m ore at w w w .juleeglaub.com Fri., Sat. & Sun. 011 353 61 376885

1 4 H  EE Q U ICK T A K E S

Halloween on Tipping a Pint A Favorite Drive: th e Ar an Island s at C ork’s “H i-B ” Up and Over A strange silence prevails A song with writers, failed The Healy Pass By R egina Sexton writers, poets & failed poets By R obert Sullivan uring the dark hours of Hal- By R egina Sexton y favorite drive in Ireland will D loween Eve, adults on Inis t’s like stepping into someone’s M always be the Healy Pass, M ór, the largest of the Aran Islands, I private sitting room. The nine high over the Caha M ountains on the Beara simply aren’t themselves. No one goes chairs that hug the wooden bar will Peninsula. If you drive up from Glen- out until about 9 p.m. Then, as the invariably be taken, mostly by men – garriff, you find yourself on a pretty pubs fill slowly, a visitor feels over- some of the cityÝs best known charac- modern road (R571) heading out onto whelmed by the complete silence. To ters – writers and failed writers, poets the peninsula. But turn north at Ardri- preserve their disguises, no one speaks and failed poets. This is Cork’s Hiber- gole, and you’re soon creeping up the a word. Drink orders are given to the nian Bar, affectionately known as the impossibly steep, curvaceous Healy barman on hand-written scraps of pa- “Hi-B.” It’s one of the city’s most Pass. Good luck trying to go more per, and regular Guinness drinkers buy eclectic and eccentric pubs. Brian, the than 8 miles per hour. There are al- gin and tonics to create confusion proprietor, ivory skinned with thinning most no houses up there, only sheep about their identities. People even white hair, will greet you with a witty watching you and a huge, slightly drink through straws to avoid lifting up quip. Of course, only if he takes to spooky religious monument on top. their masks. you. If you seem suspect, you’ll be Coming back down the north side, you The silence, broken only by the tick- given the once over with a frosty eye. pass a mountain lake that looks like ing of the clock, is odd and a bit dis- The last time I saw Brian he quoted something out of Switzerland. turbing. M y husband and I have en- me a nugget of good advice: “Have W hen I go this way, I’m heading for joyed this strange rite on Inis M or something to love, something to do Gurranes, where my Grandad came (Inishm ore) twice, first as observers and and something to hope for.” from. His old townland sits on the then as participants, with our own The Hibernian’s floor is covered in small piece of County Kerry jutting out straw costumes. It’s more fun to actu- red lino. Along the burgundy walls are onto the Beara’s north coast. That ally take part than to just watch. leatherette sofas to sink into and, of- right turn onto the Healy Pass always M any of the island’s residents begin ten, the deflated balloons from some feels like a step back into the very dif- planning elaborate costumes months in past event. Brian’s latest dictates are ferent kind of world he came from. advance. Generally, homemade cos- posted on the wooden mirror behind white haired and wearing heavy tweed tumes are the most prized and re- the bar: “Absolutely no mobile trousers, starts with “Ain’t M isbe- spected. But if you prefer, you can buy phones,” and a favorite, “Those who havin,” following with “Down by the ready-made rubber masks of Ronald drink to forget, please pay in advance.” Sally Gardens.” W hen Dick sings, Regan, Bill Clinton, the Pope and Piano man the whole pub sings. People come to Queen Elizabeth, among others, in a the piano to sing solo, while others small shop on the westward point of One recent weeknight, I croon from the safety of the bar. Dick the island. Outsiders are welcomed in stop in to listen to Dick finishes up with some fast finger work. the pubs during the evening. In fact, O’Sullivan play piano. Dick W e all clap and he directs us to a sign small groups of people often come out won’t start playing until around 10pm, over the bar: “No Dick for two from Galway to take part. At mid- so we pass the time drinking glasses of weeks.” He’s going on holiday, but we night, the silence lifts, and everyone M urphy’s (Cork’s version of Guin- all savor the innuendo and the night’s collects in the island’s Big Hall for a ness). W hen Dick finally brings out the last laugh. The Hi-B is at Oliver Halloween dance where prizes are “piano,” some kind of light-frame key- Plunkett St. & W inthrop St, 2nd fl. given for the best costumes. board, the place is energized. Dick,

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Galway: Hometown to the World

Galway is one of the fastest-growing cities in Europe. An American ex-pat’s tips on how to enjoy this high-energy university town

By N oreen Bow den unky, festive Galway teems with one of the pub's outdoor tables. cream cones. Other buskers to watch vibrant atmosphere. It's a tour- out for include the hilarious "plink F Browse the book and record shops: ists' paradise, but many of the biggest plonk" man, who plays a selection of Kenny’s Bookshop has achieved near- draws for tourists are blowins, who cardboard guitars, the hard-working legendary status as one of Ireland's arrive for a visit and wind up falling in Eastern European singer/guitarist who best bookstores. The sprawling, family- love with the place and never leaving. happily takes requests from tipsy revel- run shop carries a fantastic selection How best to take advantage of this of Irish books. There's also a delight- casual city? Simply stroll around, relax ful art gallery at the back entrance of and soak in the vibe. Here are some the shop. Bargain hunting book lovers tips on how to enjoy it like a local: should also check out Charlie Brush up your Irish: Pop down to Byrne's on M iddle Street. If you're Club Árus na nGael on Dominick more of an audiophile, hit M ullli- Street, where you can order your pint gan's Records, a few doors up from in Gaeilge. Just say "Pionta Guinness, Charlie Byrne's, for a wonderfully le do thoil" (a pint of Guinness, diverse range of music, including an please). It's ok if you forget the word- extensive vinyl collection. Street life in front of Kenny’s Bookshop ing – signs up on the wall will help Jazz it up: As you'd expect, Galway ers, the Australian singer who does you, but you won't be chastised if you has great traditional music. Catch a duets with a one-eyed dog and the bo- cheat and say it in English. Feeling session any day of the week, either at hemian man who travels with a scruffy peckish? Just across the street is Ba- Tigh Coili's on M ainguard Street or menagerie of musical mannequins. nana Phoblacht, a casual little café run The Crane on Sea Road. But don't by an Irish-language enthusiast from Visit the swans: The , home miss Galway's surprisingly eclectic Holland. It's a warm, unpretentious of the famous ring, is no longer popu- jazz scene. Try Saturday night at spot for a cup of coffee and tasty sand- lated with scenic fishing cottages, but Brennan's Yard, and enjoy the Sunday wiches and salads. The menu is bilin- the area is still worth a visit for its most brunches at The King's Head and gual, and you'll find Irish-language famous current residents: the 150 Busker Browne's, and swing on M on- books and magazines available. swans who form one of Europe’s larg- day night at Cuba. est swan colonies. To see them up Enjoy a pub chat: Enjoy live bands M ind the buskers: A stroll through close, just cross the bridge near the while you mingle at bars like The pedestrianised Quay and Shop Streets Spanish Arch, and take a walk past the Quays and Roisin Dubh. But don't provides free entertainment galore. colorful Galway hookers on the pier. miss the virtues of the quiet, old- M any of the buskers come around year The colony is located at the entrance fashioned bars. Venture into after year, and every local has a favor- to a park, and the short walk will give Neachtain's, Freeney's and M urphy's, ite. M ine is the talented puppeteer you great views, from one of the more no-frills, no-pretension bars where the from Florida, whose little wooden pal peaceful spots in this energetic city. sound of conversation still rules. draws a crowd with his bold antics. Neachtain's is particularly beloved N oreen Bow den grew up in N ew Y ork, and The loveable rogue is fond of lifting among Galwegians, and there's no is now the G eneral M anager of Em igrant women's skirts, picking fights with better spot for people watching than at O nline (w w w .irishem igrant.com ) based in men and dogs and eating children's ice G alw ay.

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Ballybunion: G r a n d D a m e o f Ir ish Lin ks

ots of Irish courses claim they’ve tended to a full 18 holes. A series of after landing in a bunker. A real test of L achieved “must play” status. But ladies’ and mens’ golfing tournaments your short game will come on the none can say they define the pinnacle over the next fifty years gradually sixth, a 364 yard long par 4 known as of Irish golf quite the way Ballybunion raised the club’s profile. Then, in 1971, “The Kiln,” because fires were once does. Is it just good PR or is there it seemed to suddenly catch the built here to make lime. It will only really something different about this world’s attention when a new club- take a moderately good tee shot to get place? Visitors come here with high house was built and a famous golf you in position for a short, even easy- expectations, but this grand dame of writer Herbert W arren W ind said Bal- looking approach shot. W atch out, old Irish links seems to live up to them. lybunion was one of the world’s top though. According to Tom W atson, The marriage of landscape and ten courses in a N ew Y orker article. this is one of the most difficult second course layout on this rolling site over M any would say Ballybunion’s qual- shots most golfers will see in a lifetime. the makes even hard- ity truly caught up with its reputation Hole number 7 features a green that nosed visitors wax poetic, using words in 1995, when Tom W atson was was re-conditioned under W atson’s like “serenity” and “peace” to describe brought in, not for radical surgery, but direction, using old films and com- their round there. Tom W atson, who to give the old lady a nip and tuck that ments from old members to help re- was in charge of the course’s most re- would keep her in the top ranks for construct it’s original shape. Getting cent facelift, once called it a “beautiful another 100 years. W atson worked on and staying on, once again, requires test.” W hen Ballybunion’s managers hard to keep the course true to its origi- excellent touch on your approach shot. say these 18 holes were designed by nal design, and to preserve what he From here in, Ballybunion’s extraor- God, nobody seems to laugh at them. called “the wild look of the place.” dinary beauty truly unfolds. The 11th, a In truth, the course is about the Hill and dale par 4 along the ocean with a 3-part same age as Lahinch. But Ballybunion fairway of descending shelves, has How does Ballybunion play now? Its got noticed by the worldwide golfing been called one of the 18 best holes in mystique hits you early, in the form of community, and by Americans in par- the world by Nick Faldo. Coming off a graveyard full of Celtic crosses star- ticular, much earlier. The presence of a the tee with anything less than a great ing you down from the right side of the 12-hole links on this site was first men- shot will lead to big troubles. The first fairway and the sea on the other. tioned in an 1893 newspaper article, course’s signature combination of The landscape here is sharp—not as which said that it had particularly landscape and great design are clear on towering as Doonbeg, but full of hills “springy turf.” Respect, however, did the 15th, a par 3 with bunkers ringed and swales that seem to pull you into not come immediately. In 1897, T he around its two-tiered green, and the some kind of hidden world. Irish T im es called the place “a rabbit dog-legged 17th, a par 4 that looks too It’s a world without many flat sur- warren below the village, where a pretty to be real, and actually offers a faces. Ballybunion will make you play golfer requires limitless patience and birdie opportunity if you can get into every kind of uphill and down dale lie an inexhaustible supply of golf balls.” position for a short second shot. imaginable. Oddly enough, though, a “Tough but fair” is how many golf- A rough start lot of players come away saying the ers describe this great old lady of Ballybunion actually struggled finan- course looks like a beast, but has a for- County Kerry. After a round you may cially until 1908, when a group of emi- giving heart. M emorable holes include feel, as CBS commentator Ben W right nent locals came together to finance the tricky par 3 third with its severely did, that “Ballybunion is one of the what became the foundation of the narrow green, which Tiger W oods shrines and treasures of the game.” current club. Only in 1926 was it ex- managed to bogey on a 1998 round www.ballybuniongolfclub.com

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The Golf Widow’s Guide to Ireland

Shopping, spas and other delights for herself near the courses he’s be dying to play

By C lodagh M cC oole ou married him for better or for ready, but long for a bit of out- in Dromcollogher. Founded by a Y worse, right? But then he fell in door life, there’s horse riding German couple fleeing the de- love again – with a little white ball and for all levels at M ount Juliet’s struction in their homeland during miles of open space. Now, he disap- own stables. Take a leisurely walk or W orld W ar II, the workshop offers pears for 4 or 5 hours at a go trot across the grounds with one of the delicate Irish figures made in Dresden (depending on the lure of the 19th hole) riding instructors. Tennis is also avail- porcelain. Nearby Limerick City has while you go through everything from able. the Hunt M useum, one of Ireland’s frustration to rage, and even jealousy. Nearby, there’s retail therapy… our best known art troves, which houses an Stop fighting it! He’s hooked on golf favorite! Just a few miles down the eclectic collection ranging from histori- and let’s face it, for him, road is Jerpoint Glass Studio. cal artifacts to paintings by Picasso and it will never get better Spend an hour watching the Renoir. Near the Hunt, there are sev- than golfing in Ireland. glass being blown, and then blow eral art galleries worth exploring in Girls, the trick is not to a few euro in the shop. The glass- Pery Square, among them The Limer- let him jet across the At- ware is very distinctive, with ick City Gallery of Art and Angela lantic to all those beauti- wild splashes of color – great W oulfe Gallery. Finally, if your for- ful locations without gifts. M ore money to spend? bears hail from the Limerick area, take you. W hile he’s hacking Lucky you. Kilkenny City is less a short detour to the Limerick Ances- away on Ireland’s top than 20 miles away. It’s home to try and Archives, where you’ll find out courses, there’s plenty nearby for you world-famous Kilkenny Design Cen- more about your family line. to entertain yourself with. Then, by the tre, where you will find all that’s best Quieter Travels end of the day, you’ll both have in Irish artwork and crafts, along with Ireland’s newest links course, which “earned” a fabulous dinner. He’s interesting clothes – all with a very Greg Norman has called the “best site happy; you’re happy. Need I say modern, natural twist. in the world” for golf, is Doonbeg, more? To the west is Adare M anor in near the village of Doonbeg, County A favorite starting point is the Adare, County Limerick, a 5-star hotel Clare. This is a quiet part of Ireland, M ount Juliet Estate & Golf Course in in a spectacular manor house (more with lots of beaches and open vistas of Thomastown, County Kilkenny, with like a castle, really) overlooking the the wild At- its beautiful old manor house set in river M aigue. Like M ount Juliet, it’s lantic ocean. 1,500 acres of spectacular parkland golf course is in a “parkland” type set- For accom- scenery. The golf course, designed by ting. It was designed by Robert Trent modation, I Jack Nicklaus, has been host to many Jones. recommend international championships and the Dresden China a little coun- site of the Irish Open three times . For Adare is a picture postcard town with try house you, there’s a health spa with beauty Berry Lodge pretty thatched cottages lining it’s called Berry Lodge, in Spanishpoint. treatments and pampering. You might main street. It has an interesting collec- Proprietor Rita M eade offers cooking even try their new “dead sea discov- tion of craft and antique shops as well lessons using simple, wholesome ingre- ery” flotation room, which is said to as the Adare Heritage Centre, which dients, many of which are grown in offer “an unparalleled relaxation ex- recalls the history of the area. Try ex- her own garden. There’s a restaurant perience.” On the other hand, if ploring The Irish Dresden W orkshop attached to the house, which serves you’re feeling beautiful enough al- continued next page

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Further north, past the Hotel, Killarney, which boasts a Golf Widow’s Guide Cliffs of M oher, is the jacuzzi with stunning views of the (continued from previous page) town of Doolin, home mountains and lakes. You should also plentiful helpings of fresh local pro- to one of Ireland’s most famous music take a journey through the Gap of duce. pubs, and the departure point for boats Dunloe in a pony and trap, even Just two miles away, M iltown M al- to the Aran Islands. Less famous but though it’s terribly touristy, and then bay is a very traditional village, with equally inviting is Doolin’s wonderful return by boat via the Killarney Lakes. lots of old shopfronts in a multitude of craft store which features lots of lo- The nun’s lace colors. It hosts “The W illie Clancy cally-made clothes, jewelry and art, No, I haven’t forgotten about shop- Festival” of traditional Irish music and has a delightful tea shop where ping. Kenmare Lace, a unique little every June, and many of the pubs offer you can sample Clare Jam and scones. store based in Kenmare’s Heritage live music year-round. Hillery’s on Undoubtedly, your golfer will want Centre, carries on the delicate hand- M ain Street is always great for music, to try his hand at two of Ireland’s top work started by the Poor Clare nuns. and so is O’Friel’s (though the old courses, Ballybunion and W aterville. Admission to see the artisans at work sign over it’s door reads “Lynch’s”). Drive south from Doonbeg, and save is free. Lastly, I’d suggest a foray into A short drive north from Doonbeg time by taking the ferry at to Dingle (halfway between Ballybunion will take your golfer back in time to Tarbert, County Kerry (along the way, and W aterville) where many famous Lahinch, another famous links course you’ll get great views of the Shannon artists live, including goldsmith Brian built in 1892, and updated in 1927 by River as it nears the ocean). Ferry ser- de Staic and potter Louis M ulcahy. the co-creator (with Bobby Jones) of vice is not year-round, so please check Both have their own stores in Dingle. The M asters course in Augusta, Dr. first. From Tarbert, it’s about a 30 min- So fellow golf-widows, there you Alister M ackenzie. ute drive to Ballybunion. have it - your very own “alternative” I recommend stay- Along the way, you might golf tour. A chance for you to explore, ing nearby at M oy want to spend a few hours is shop, all for yourself. Just remember, House, in Lahinch, the town of Listowel, a he need never know this trip is any- a beautifully re- lively spot which hosts the thing but a punishment for you! stored Victorian Listowel W riters Festival nd th Clodagh M cCoole grew up in Lim erick, Home with 14 indi- each year (June 2 – 6 in and now lives in N ew E ngland vidually decorated 2004). On the other hand, if rooms, overlooking you craving some exercise Contact Information Liscannor Bay. yourself at this point, try M t. Juliet Estate: 011 353 56 7724217 Dinner is served spending a day at Cap- www.mountjuliet.ie each night for house Riding at Mt. Juliet Estate panalea Outdoor Education Adare M anor: 011 353 61 396566 guests only in an intimate dining Centre at Caragh Lake, near Kilorglin. www.adaremanor.com room, in an atmosphere where you’ll Day courses include rock-climbing, Berry Lodge: 011 353 65 7087022 relax and make new friends. The canoeing and windsurfing. www.berrylodge.westclare.net/index.h nearby town of Lahinch has lots of Near Kerry’s other famous course, tml craft shops worth exploring. Enjoy an W aterville, there’s a great chance for M oy House: 011 353 65 7082 800 hour watching surfers brave the Atlan- us girls to spend a bit of time exploring www.moyhouse.com tic rollers from O’Looney’s Pub. M uckross House, an incredible 19th Cappanalea Outdoor Education Ctr: Then, when you’re ready for a snack, century mansion and garden center www.oec.ie/cappanalea head to Ennistymon (just two miles open for public tours. It’s also a pleas- Doolin Crafts: 011 353 65 7074309 away) for dessert at a great German- ure taking in the scenery by driving or www.doolincrafts.com run bakery called Unglerts, with it’s strolling around the famous Lakes of Lake Hotel: 011 353 64 31035 great selection of pastries and breads. Killarney. Try staying at The Lake www.lakehotel.com

1 9 www.irelandfunfacts.com

Stones, Wildflowers and Solitude

With a landscape that doesn’t resemble anything else in Ireland, is an amazing place for a long, silent walk By G eraldine K eane n a summer’s day with hazy O sunshine and a gentle breeze, there are few places as light and calm as the Burren in County Clare. Taking its name from the Irish word “Boireann,” meaning “rocky place” or “place of rocks,” this landscape seems tilted and strangely barren at first glance. The low stone walls are more jagged and angular than elsewhere in the country. And while the bare lime- stone takes up just 20% of the total surface area, it marks a stark contrast to the rest of Ireland’s lush green coun- tryside. But if you enjoy an amazing show of wildflowers and archaeologi- cal sites, or just like walking in soli- tude, there are few places like it any- where in Europe. Forbidding at first glance, the Burren is a place of intricate charms The Burren takes up the portion of northwestern Clare bordered by Kin- across the weathered limestone is from sturdy trainers (running shoes). vara on the south, Corofin to the south my school days, on a field trip where I’ve walked it on wet winter days and east, with the wild Atlantic to the the “clints” (blocks of limestone) and and in the bright light of summer, and west. “grikes” (cracks than can be several driven through in all the seasonal Karst walkin’ meters deep) that fascinated my shades in between, and I’ve never been schoolmates and I. Since then, I’ve disappointed by its effect on me. It’s one of Europe’s few “karst” ar- returned many times to walk it again. There’s something comforting in the eas (a limestone area with caves, fis- As hill walking in Ireland goes, it’s one gentle roll of the landscape that’s abso- sures and underground streams), so of the easier places to hike, though the lutely unique. The passing car traffic named after a similar region in Slove- cracks in the limestone are easy to on the roads can be almost soundless nia. If you’re driving, you can get stumble into and possibly break an in the expanse of open air. some of the most stunning views I in ankle. The low limestone hills are well Thanks to this unusual atmosphere, the area from Corkscrew Hill, on the rounded and the highest peak (Slieve the Burren has attracted a wide array Galway to Limerick road that passes Elva) is a manageable 344m high. of craftspeople, poets, artists and alter- through and Bally- Unlike some other walking and native healers of all denominations. vaughan. But in my opinion, the only climbing areas, the paths here don’t Some claim it’s the light that draws way to see the Burren is to get out and require any high-tech gear, other than them or the slower passing of time in walk it. Only then do you get a sense a good raincoat (it is Ireland after all!). this wide open countryside. of its intricate charms. You’ll easily get by with a pair of The Burren is famous for its explo- M y first real memory of walking continued next page

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The Burren (continued from previous page)

sion of wildflowers in the late spring and summer. In July and August, the smell of wildflowers on the breeze give the place an other-worldly feel. Burren meadows offer a diversity of flowers that’s unmatched in Ireland. W ith the combination of limestone soils and mild climate, this is one of few places on earth where you can see arctic, al- pine and M editerranean flowers grow- ing side by side. Of the 27 species of orchids recorded in Ireland, 23 are found in the Burren. For archaeology fans, the region has Scenic Ballayvaughan over 2,500 megalithic tombs, holy solution too. You can start from either off down the road and then cut inland wells, forts and other historic sites. end. M ost of the Burren W ay is across wherever your heart desires. W hen Poulnabrone is one of the country’s private lands, where you’re welcomed, you return to town, try most famous ancient sites and dates and you won’t find all the tourists the Fear Gorta Tea Rooms for a back around 5,800 years. Rising up out you’ll get at the cliffs. quaint reprieve with home-baked of the landscape, this impressive portal I’ve generally found that the path is goodness, or M onk’s Pub, which of- dolmen is made of slabs of rock that quieter than, say, the paths through the fers a hearty fire and fresh seafood. create a wedge-shaped tomb. It’s a bit Kerry or Dublin mountains. A map to If you’re travelling between Galway too close to the road, but one can’t guide you can be purchased at most and Limerick, do take the time to stop help but marvel at its scale. news agents or bookshops in the area. off and walk the Burren. It’s a whole Where to walk Ordinance Survey M ap #51 covers the world away and, for me, always well worth the effort. If you’re planning your first walk Burren, and costs about 6 Euro. G eraldine K eane lives in G alw ay through the area, the “Burren W ay” is If you’re more inclined to create a good one to try. This marked route your own path, get a map and try just stretches from The Cliffs of M oher to about anywhere along the coastal What’s really going on these Ballyvaughan, 22.9 miles away, and stretch between Black Head and days in dear old Ireland? alternates between coastal and inland Doolin, where the limestone hills roll walking. (For a shorter trek, start in down dramatically toward the Atlan- Both good and the middle at Ballinlackin, and walk tic. For shorter routes, anything baaaaad I’m sure! toward the cliffs or Ballyvaughan.) around Black Head is a winner. You’ll There isn’t a path to follow the whole definitely need a map to do this, and a way, but it’s signposted, so it’s hard to compass isn’t a bad idea either. get lost. If you have a car, you’ll need There’s virtually an unlimited number someone to go ahead and pick you up of spots where you can park your car and view this beautiful coastline. at the end of the walk (or along the Get your FREE ezine at Last but not least, you can simply way if you don’t want to do the whole www.irelandfunfacts.com walk). Using the bus system is a great leave your car in Ballyvaughan, head