THE REAL TASTE OF MALT

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2 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNALIMPORTED BY SHAW-ROSS INTERNATIONAL IMPORTERS MIRAMAR, FLORIDA, 43% ALC/VOL. • WWW.SHAW-ROSS.COM

GlengoyneFullPageAD_tastersGuild.indd 1 10/25/12 7:09 AM By Joe Borrello President’s Page

One of the most unlikely venues for an values from a variety of wine regions international wine judging was the site of plus give the wine industry a reference for CONTENTS: the 18th Annual Wine Lovers’ Consumer consumer tastes. 4 A Visit to Catalan Wine Judging, September 25-26. Stingrays Tasters Guild also adheres to the philosophy By Ron Kapon Taphouse and Grill in Port Aransas on of evaluating in price categories Mustang Island, Texas was where 20 wine for better value perception by consumers 5 Bargins Become Available consumers gathered to evaluate nearly 400 and recommends any judging results to By Dan Berger international wines. Port A, as the locals be used only as an informational guide in (all 3,500 of them) call their charming little establishing one’s personal preferences. 6 What is This Thing, Called Beer? town, lies just southeast of Corpus Christi Our little gathering on Mustang Island By Beth Ann Theiste and a five minute car ferry ride across the was a delightful experience. The “natives channel. were friendly,” the food terrific, and a fun 7 A Primer on Sake Tasters Guild’s Executive Vice President, and rewarding time was had by all. It just By Tasters Guild Editorial Staff Monty “Yogi” Barrett, retired from his “real felt a little strange wearing shorts, sandals job” a few years back and bought a home in and a t-shirt all day long with only a change 8-9 Retailer's Shelf Port A while visiting relatives one winter in of shirt for dinner. It certainly is a casual By Dick Scheer San Antonio. environment, but it was all business when it When the national office of Tasters came down to the actual wine judging and 10 Consumers Wine Results Guild was looking for a new location for the members of the new Port A Texas Chapter Consumer Wine Judging, Yogi suggested of Tasters Guild took their evaluation 11 Double Gold Tasting Notes Port A and a new bar/restaurant being built assignments to heart. called “Stingrays.” Don’t thing fish…think You might want to consider joining us 12 Zinfindel - What's Your Style two actual Corvette Stingrays hoisted above next September when we return to Mustang By Michael Schafer the bar and on permanent display as the Island for our 19th Annual Wine Lovers source of the establishment’s name. Consumer Judging…and don’t forget your 13 Matchmaking Science In adjoining banquet rooms, we conducted shorts and sandals. By Dr. Richard D. Vine, PhD the wine judging that featured some exceptional wines from regional areas The Electronic Age is Upon Us 14 The Physician’s Conundrum around the country. (See pages 10 and 11 for If you haven’t already done so, please By Dr. Charles R. Thomas, M.D. a complete listing of the medal winners and be sure the Tasters Guild national office Double Gold tasting notes.) has an email contact for you. In 2014 all 16 A Culinary Emancipation communication with TG members will be Proclamation Quality and Value is the Goal done through the internet. We will also be By Joe Borrello By sponsoring the Consumers’ Judging, posting all Tasters Guild activities, trips and as well as the larger spring Professional the Journal magazine on our website at www. 18 Ask Tasters Guild Judging, it is the intention of Tasters Guild tastersguild.com. Send your email address By Joe Borrello to educate consumers in recognizing quality and updates to [email protected]. 19 Kodak Moments

Tasters Guild Journal is published two times a year by TASTERS GUILD INTERNATIONAL 1515 Michigan NE Grand Rapids, MI 49503 (616) 454-7815 Fax (616) 459-9969 e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.tastersguild.com Editor Joe Borrello Creative Director Wayne J Brown Copy Editor Beth Ann Theiste Associate Publisher Robert Machera Cover Photo by S. Niedzwiecki www.StacyN.com For advertising information, please contact: Machera Associates Phone/Fax: 802-442-8523 E-mail: [email protected]

FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 3 By Ron Kapon A Visit to Catalan

In mid-September I and 4 other New These are massive, inky wines of distinct Priorat, making luscious and full-bodied reds. York based journalists were invited to spend character and reputation. Graciano: Best grown in . 6 days in the Catalan region of Spain on a Mazuelo: Also known as Cariñena, and Wine, Culture & Festival tour. While there I Penedès – This Region is in . saw no Spanish flags but lots of Catalunya close in proximity to Barcelona on the Cariñena: Important in Priorat: Carignan (Catalonia in Spanish) pride. Catalan is a Mediterranean coastline. The region is known in France. separate language and not a dialect of Spanish for its . Cava is the Spanish Monastrell: Used mainly in Catalonia, makes and the people consider themselves Catalan, term for sparkling wine. It is produced in the juicy wines, Known as Mourvèdre in France. not Spanish. There has even been much talk , much like , of becoming a separate country. where the wine ferments in the bottle, until it Spanish White This, however, is not a political story but is ready to be corked. Cava is usually a blend Albariño: Makes Spain´s most elegant white one of a wine country and its wine. of 3 grapes: Viura (aka ), Parellada, wines. Catalonia lies at the northeast of Spain, and Xarel.lo. The name Cava derived from the Viura/Macabeo: Main white grape in Penedès. bordering the Pyrenees Mountains and France “caves” where the sparkling wine was created. (Cava) in the north. The Mediterranean Sea is to the Cava wines spend 9 months ageing in bottles Xarel.lo: One of the Cava grapes. east, Valencia to the south and Aragon to following fermentation. Over 90% of Spanish Parellada: Native to Catalonia, key component the west. The winters are not too severe and Cava wines come from the Penedès region. of Cava. summer is uniformly sunny and hot, with Spain has over 1.6 million acres of vines and Airén: Spain’s (and the world’s) most widely cooling breezes from the Mediterranean. It today there are more than 146 varieties. planted grape variety. is an ideal location for . One can choose to spend time in Barcelona, Spanish Red Grapes For More Information: go to the beach, or explore the Pyrenees. : Spain’s most famous and noble www.catalunya.com Through August of 2013 there were over 42.3 grape. www.barcelonaturisme.com million international tourists visiting Spain. Garnacha: Known as in the rest of In 2012 Catalan entertained over 15 million the world. It is the most prominent grape in international visitors which represents 25% of all international arrivals in Spain.

A Long Wine has been produced here since the time of the Romans, who started planting and producing grapes near Tarragona (which was the Iberian capital at the time). Since then, the winemaking region spread and flourished until the 19th century Phylloxera crisis killed most of the red grapes grown there. Today Catalunya has 11 regions of Denominació d'Origen (DO) and 1 Denominació d'Origen Qualificada (DOQ). Priorat and Rioja are Spain’s two DOQs. The Catalunya DO appellation was Spain's first region-wide, cover-all DO title. Created in 1999, it covers all of the that were not covered by any of the region's other 11 DOs. Approximately 25% of the total wine production in Spain is produced in Catalonia. Spain has more land area in grape production, 2.9 million acres planted, than any other country. It is #3 in global wine production behind France and Italy (The US is #5). In consumption Spain is 9th in the world.

Priorat – An old winemaking region with a modern twist in this tiny, mountainous region near Barcelona. Terraced hillsides of slate are common with very old vines of Garnacha and Cariñena, typically blended with small amounts of and .

4 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL By Dan Berger Bargains Becoming Available

Anyone seeking a bargain wine these --Look at the Bottling Location: Many competitive by keeping prices low. If ordering days who buys at “full suggested retail price” will sell excess wines already via the Internet is an option, look for older deserves to get ripped off. bottled to companies that will use created wines on a website like http://www.wine- In the last three years, wine stocks around brands (grocery chains, for instance). Here searcher.com. It gives prices for numerous the world have exploded. The worldwide glut the bottling location is an indication of its older wines and locations that have them. of wine now facing the wine industry parallels quality. If the label says the wine was bottled --Consider Case Purchases: Some what we saw in 2001. This has led to very soft in St. Helena, it may be a sell-off of a high- stores and Internet dealers offer significant prices for many wines, lots of discounting, priced wine at a low price. One recent $16.99 discounts on case purchases. Even in deep- and this is affecting even upscale brands. Cabernet Sauvignon with a brand I had never discounters, many still offer 10% off on case Recently I heard of a high-image Napa heard of was clearly a wine that probably sold purchases. Recently we paid $32.28 for a Valley whose pricey Cabernet wasn’t for $40 on first release. case of a once-$10 a bottle after the moving, so the winery --Sample Blind discount. decided not to tinker Comparatively: When with discounting. It trying two or three new “Dan Berger’s Experiences,” a simply gave away wines to see if they’re four-page weekly newsletter on wine is cases of the Cabernet worth the $5.99 price, sent via First Class U.S. Mail or email to to retailers if they one good idea is to buy subscribers. It is available to wine lovers for bought a proscribed a favorite brand that $52 per year, 48 issues, and contains stories, number of cases of its normally costs more, commentary, tasting notes and humor. To see . 1 and serve the wines a sample or order a subscription go to www. Many of the current all side by side blind. vintageexperiences.com or call 888-662- “bargains” are Thus, if you were to buy WINE for further details. overflow from large three cheaper, unknown crops. Included here , try them with are “private labels” a $15 Merlot to see how made for entrepreneurs they compare. (Do not who contract a large do this with sight of the amount of “private label. Blind tasting often label” wine. They usually design and print reveals details you would otherwise miss. their own labels, and pay up front. S o m e Leftover wine may be re-corked and stored in larger wine companies also have developed the refrigerator, or used for cooking.) “unknown” brands with a “California” --Compare : Often at the time appellation and a price tag of about $10 a of a vintage change, the older vintage is bottle. But the real world price often is seen better than the new vintage. The best way to months later when the same wine shows determine this is to try the wines blind. Then up at a discounter as part of a two-for-one buy the better wine. promotion (the so-called five-cent sale), or at --Focus On Unusual Varieties: Merlot deeper discounters where the wines are selling and can be boring. and for as little as $3.99 a bottle. Petite Sirah rarely are. Since the latter two By blending bulk wines, many larger wines are made mainly for the cognoscenti, operations can come up with some elegant prices for good ones are usually softer, blends that represent good value. But a wine especially at a time when there is a vast surplus like this is unique and will never be seen of wine. Private label wines using such grapes again in the same form. If you dined at Lizzie often represent great values. And don’t forget Bordon’s Chop House and ordered a glass of such excellent wines as Italian Sagrantino and the house red, chances are it would differ from Aglianico. time to time, since such items often are “one- --Focus on Unusual Regions: Names off” deals. that may not be familiar to you can be superb But there are tactics consumers can use to locations for bargain wines. Names that discover the great values in today’s market. recently have produced some nice red and Here are a few. white wines from France include --Buy Early: Many large wineries release du Jardin de France (), Costieres their best blends first, a “best foot forward” de Nimes, Ardèche (Rhône), and Blaye. strategy. One reason is to be able to enter wine --Try Older Vintages: Many wine competitions with a top wine. Those that make companies are reluctant these days to raise vast amounts of certain items, hoping to snare prices on slightly older vintages for fear of gold medals, will release their best wines as slowing down sales at a time when they are early as possible. Later releases of the “same” already slowing down on their own. As a wine often are not as good. result, wine shops in major cities try to remain FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 5 By Beth Ann Theiste What is This Thing, Called Beer?

This year Grand Rapids, Michigan, home up. Most Americans live within 10 miles of 460,000 gallons. At least 75% of that beer to Tasters Guild International, won the title a craft brewer. must be sold outside of the brewery. How- of Beer City, USA for the second year in a ever, a microbrewery does not have to have row. Beer has started competing with wine Craft Breweries, Brewpubs and a strict percentage of malt or anything else in in popularity, even as an accompaniment Microbreweries its beer, unlike a craft brewery. with food. There are now beer , known as a ‘cicerones,’ to help people navi- Craft brewing is a technique of brewing While the overlap between a microbrewery gate the myriad of beer choices out there. which includes 50 percent traditional malt, and a craft brewery can lead to some con- rather than adjuncts which generally include fusion, note that the requirement for a mi- Because Prohibition had driven most brew- wheat, oats, unmalted barley, corn or rice. crobrewery is strictly volume. The brewing eries out of business, and after decades of Crafters also like to try other, non-traditional technique of utilizing malt with other ingre- brewery consolidation, most of America’s ingredients for different flavor profiles, such dients, signifies a craft brewery. beer was produced by a few large compa- as orange peels, ginger and cinnamon. They nies. It wasn’t very long ago that the beer also use high quality ingredients that may Eat, Drink and be Merry with a Beer choices were quite limited to light lagers like be seasonal, like pumpkins or chile peppers. Budweiser and Miller. There weren’t many Primarily, traditional styles are brewed such The eat and drink local movement as been imported beers out there, either. Around the as stouts, porters and ales. Samuel Adams increasing in favor and the craft brew move- late 1970s some beer drinkers, craving dif- is probably the most famous craft brewer in ment is part of this trend. People are drink- ferent types and styles of beer, started home- this country. ing locally crafted beers with their locally brewing, which quickly caught on. Some grown meals. Breweries are getting their of these home brewers went on to start their A brewpub is a brewery attached to a bar/ brewing ingredients from local farmers, own breweries. These early pioneers gave restaurant. It usually sells its own beer di- which can add a lot to the allure of the beer. birth to what is now the craft brew industry. rectly from the on-site storage tanks. This refers to small, independently owned Treat yourself to some of your local craft breweries that produce beers of all differ- Microbreweries are classified by the num- brewed beers, either from the store or at a ent types and styles. Since then, hundreds ber of beer barrels they produce a year, restaurant. Like wine, there are so many of breweries and brewpubs started springing which is limited to 15,000 beer barrels or types of beers that it may take you awhile.

THE WINE-LOVER’S GUIDE TO BEER

You love wine, but fancy a beer. If you take pleasure in a one of the wines below, consider the beer that follows it. It will not taste like a wine (you asked for beer, after all), but you may enjoy it for a change.

Dry White: An authentic, hoppy Pilsner Gewurztraminer: A spicy, malty Vienna-style lager, or a darker Munich-style lager. Champagne: A wheat beer. Blush Zinfandel or Pink Champagne: A framboise (raspberry beer). Cabernet Sauvignon: A fruity English-style ale, or an oaky American IPA : A richer Scottish or Belgian ale. Fino : A lambic. Amontillado Sherry: A porter or dry stout. (From Michael Jackson’s book, “Beer Companion”) Port: A dark Trappist ale, with some bottle-age.

6 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL By Tasters Guild Ediorial Staff A Brief Primer on Sake

Sake is sometimes referred to in English- the kind of rice that people eat. The grain of a winter drink, and high-grade sake is not speaking countries as “rice wine.” However, saka mai is bigger than the regular rice grain. drunk hot, because the flavors and aromas unlike wine, in which alcohol is produced Sake-making rice is improved to contain less will be lost. This masking of flavor is the by fermenting sugar that is naturally present protein and fat which might spoil the quality reason that low-quality and old sake is often in grapes and other fruits, sake is produced of the sake. This rice is used only for making served hot. by means of a brewing process more like sake, because it is unpalatable for eating. that of beer. To make beer or sake, the sugar More than 80% of sake is made from water. Storage needed to produce alcohol must first be Naturally, the quality of water determines the In general, it is best to keep sake refrigerated converted from starch. quality of sake. In fact, the Japanese regions in a cool or dark room, as prolonged exposure to heat or direct light will lead to spoilage. After opening a bottle of sake, it is best consumed within 2 or 3 hours. It is possible to store sake in the refrigerator, but it is recommended to finish the sake within 2 days. This is because once premium sake is opened it begins to oxidize, which affects the taste. If the sake is kept in the refrigerator for more than 3 days, it will lose its "best" flavor. However, this does not mean it should be disposed of if not consumed. Generally, sake can keep very well and still taste just fine after weeks in the refrigerator. How long a sake will remain drinkable depends on the actual product itself, and whether it is sealed with a wine vacuum top. As with wine, enjoy in good health. Kanpai!

The brewing process for sake differs from where the quality and taste of water is highly the process for beer, in that for beer the praised are often famous for excellent sake conversion from starch to sugar and from products. sugar to alcohol occurs in two discrete steps. When sake is brewed, these conversions Sake and Food occur simultaneously. Furthermore, the Sake can be paired with many different alcohol content differs between sake, wine, types of food. It’s common that people drink and beer. Wine generally contains 9%–16% sake only with Japanese foods at Japanese alcohol while most beer contains 3%–9%, restaurants, and in many cases only Japanese and undiluted sake contains 18%–20% eateries are still the only places to serve sake. (although this is often lowered to about 15% However, sake doesn’t need to be paired by diluting with water prior to bottling). only with Sushi, Tempura, or Teriyaki, the The process during which the sake grows common Japanese foods that are accepted into a quality product during storage is into the overseas food scene. In fact, you can called the maturation or maturing process. pair sake with your favorite meal at home. New sake is not liked because of its rough Ginjo and Daiginjo: This type of high quality taste, whereas mature sake is mild, smooth sake pairs very well with light, refreshing or and rich. However, if it is too mature, it smooth foods. also develops a rough taste. Nine to twelve Junmai and Honjozo sake pair well with months are required for sake to mature. rich, creamy or robust foods. Unfiltered (Nigori) sake pairs well with Special Rice and Premium Water rich and creamy foods. It’s also served as a Rice is to sake what grapes are to wine. . Over the centuries the Japanese have In Japan sake is served chilled, at room cultivated a special kind of rice perfect for temperature, or heated, depending on the brewing sake. This kind of rice is called saka preference of the drinker, the quality of the mai in Japanese, and is very different from sake, and the season. Typically, hot sake is FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 7 By Dick Scheer, Village Corner, Ann Arbor, MI The Retailer's Shelf

Chateau Bonnet 2012 Entre deux Mers, singular wine has become one of its most France $14 popular. The component Under vine since the 16th century, Chateau (80%) displays melons and pears, and offers Bonnet is directed today by the dynamic a plump mouthfeel. Viognier chimes in with Andre Lurton. It lies central to the Bordeaux honeysuckle and citrus, and supplies good region’s Entre deux Mers, a vine-blanketed acid relief. This masterful and enduring peninsula bound by rivers Dordogne and concept invites a multitude of Pacific Rim Garonne, which join at its tip to form the accompaniments, from sushi to snow crab. Gironde estuary. Lurton’s dry consists of 50% , 40% Rhein River 2011 Rheinhessen , Semillon, and 10% Muscadelle. Sauvignon Germany $12 Blanc supplies crisp, fresh scents of citrus Like Pine Ridge, Rudi Wiest’s Cellars and grass, Muscadelle, musk melon. At the International celebrates its 35th anniversary core, Semillon features a smooth, lemon- this year. Wiest is clearly one of America’s cream flavor and texture. Reproduce top German-wine importers. A star in his Bordeaux’s famous Plateau de Fruits de portfolio is Nierstein’s Gunderloch estate Mer presentation for maximum enjoyment. and its brilliant winemaker Fritz Hasselbach, who has crafted this Rhein River selection Domaine Talmard 2011 from Riesling grown in Hessia’s best sites: Macon-Chardonnay, France $16 Rheinfront’s red-slate hillsides. Riesling The 1000-year-old Maconnais village from this zone is redolent of nectarine and of Chardonnay took its name from thistle tangerine. This one’s off-dry, with crisp, (chardon) scattered about uncultivated balancing acidity, primed for a creamy Goa hillsides that today are blanketed with fish curry. grapevines. In turn, Chardonnay gave its name to Burgundy’s leading white grape Bodegas Muga 2012 Rioja Rosé, Spain $11 Adriano Adami Treviso Prosecco variety. Here, Talmards have nurtured It’s true, rosé season is over. Still, some Garbel Brut, Italy $16 a 64-acre estate since the 17th century. rosés continue to blossom during the fall Prosecco is leading a surge in sparkling- Maconnais produces the original, unwooded and winter months and offer the heft and wine popularity. Years back, we identified Chardonnay, its wines rarely aged in stamina to fare well with hearty food. The Prosecco as a varietal name, and there were cooperage. Chardonnay’s appley nature Rhone Valley’s great Tavel rosé is typically both still and sparkling versions. Today, is fully apparent in aromas and flavors of better in its second year. Rioja rosés, Prosecco refers to the wine, universally peel, pulp, and juice, complemented by especially Grenache-based, offer winter sparkling; the grape variety is called Glara. earthy elements derived from clay/ warmth and sustenance. Muga’s 2012 is The Treviso area of north-central Veneto limestone soils. I’m envisioning an herb- 60% Garnacha (Grenache), 30% Viura, and is the heart of Prosecco country. Here, encrusted whole roast chicken. 10% Tempranillo. It smells of strawberry, the three-generation Adami family crafts cherry, and red haven peach. Tart apple and several lovely renditions, including the care- Firesteed 2012 Oregon Pinot Gris, U.S. $12 pie crust come forth on the palate. Tailor free Garbel, a word that in the local dialect I love Oregon Pinot Gris. It’s richer and made for varied bounties of paella. means “thirst-quenching.” When company fuller bodied than your average Italian comes have plenty of this ideal aperitif on Pinot Grigio, crisper and cooler than most Excelsior 2011 Robertson Cabernet hand. One glass invites another. California renditions, and less heady and Sauvignon, South Africa $10 viscous than those from Alsace. It offers Since 1870, the De Wet family has Barbanera 2012 Orvieto Classico Secco, both mouth-filling and mouth-cleansing cultivated grapevines and grazed horses in Italy $9 attributes. Founded in 1993, Firesteed the balmy interior of the Cape 100 miles east My search for a fresh, dry, lightly aromatic sources fruit from both northern and southern of Cape Town. Calcareous-clay soils in the Orvieto ended a couple of months back Oregon to form a rangy and expressive Pinot Breede River Valley of the Robertson district when Barbanera arrived. The Orvieto Gris. Product of the great 2012 vintage, this are ideal for European grape varieties, Classico DOC zone surrounds its namesake features aromas and flavors of apple, orange, Cabernet Sauvignon in particular. The Umbrian village southeast of Tuscany. and melon plus terrific body and depth. It’s a wine is distinctive, deep, dark, and hearty: Standard versions consist mostly of the natural with poached salmon. quite unlike a Cabernet from Bordeaux, neutral Toscano variety. This California, or Chile. I suggest a game course. one achieves more oomph and personality Pine Ridge 2012 Clarksburg Chenin A Cumberland sauce is appropriate. by incorporating Verdello, Grechetto, and Blanc - Viognier, U.S. $14 Malvasia. A dry, smooth white wine, it plays Thirty-five year old Napa Valley winery at orchard fruits and ethereal spicy, floral Pine Ridge has crafted this cuvee since subtleties. Serve with pasta primavera. the early nineties, sourcing Chenin Blanc from Sacramento Delta vineyards around Clarksburg and Viognier from Lodi. This

8 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Vista del Sur 2011 Uco Valley Pietra Santa California Sacred Stone Taylor Fladgate Porto Fine Ruby, High Note Elevated, Argentina $14 Master’s Blend, U.S. $11 Portugal $16 On the subject of Argentine Malbec, Siena-born winemaker Alessio Carli, Early in the annals of New World altitude matters. High-elevation Uco Valley began his career in his native Tuscany winemaking, Port became a generic term for (3300 - 5000 feet), with its intense sunlight, (at famous Badia a Coltibuono) before a sweet, fortified red (occasionally white) extreme diurnal temperature swings, and embarking for California to assume a wine. In defense of its model, Portugal has slow, cool ripening seasons, fosters position at Vicki and Sam Sebastiani’s changed the name of the original to Porto. of brighter, more vibrant, more intense Viansa winery. Since 1998, he has made Ruby refers to a young (average two years), black-fruit aromas and flavors than those wines at Pietra Santa, an estate in the cask-aged rendition of apt color. Over more from the Mendoza plain. Blackberry, black Cienega Valley 25 miles from Monterey than four centuries, the venerable British cherry, and maraschino are this elegant Bay that has been under vines for over 150 house Taylor Fladgate has crafted powerful, specimen’s marks. Unlike one of those years. His Sacred Stone blend comes from stout-hearted rubies saturated with black brawny, powerful Argentine steakhouse every red grape variety on the property: fruit of the upper Douro, sporting what the Malbecs, this one would serve better with , Dolcetto, Carignan, and ten locals call “the grip of the gob.” Tradition calves liver sauteed in butter. others. Following eighteen months in calls for Stilton and walnuts, modernity, cooperage, it has assumed a decidedly flourless chocolate cake. Chapelle St. Arnoux 2011 Cotes du Tuscan demeanor, sporting warm, Rhone Vieilles Vignes, France $12 singed and dried fruit, and leather. Enjoy Around Avignon and Orange, the lower alongside pizza topped with pepperoni Rhone River’s slopes (cotes) bristle with old and spicy Italian sausage vines (vieilles vignes) of Grenache, , Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Carignan. Each makes a unique contribution to a complex assemblage of aromas and flavors difficult to achieve with a single grape variety in Mediterranean climes. This beauty features berries, peppercorns, and scents of the garrigue, the Provencal countryside in full summer bloom. Calls for roast leg of lamb with a rosemary rub.

Altovinum 2012 Calatayud Garnacha Old Vines Evodia, Spain $10 Old vines make their mark again, here Garnacha (Grenache) up to age 100, planted in slate soil at elevations 2400-3000 feet. Old vines contribute less fruit, but it’s more concentrated, and their deep roots render the vines less susceptible to growing-season vagrancies. Calatayud lies in the storied kingdom of Aragon, south of Rioja. Its wines are redolent of blackberry and black cherry, offering warm, ripe fruit tones enhanced by an accompanying roast pork loin.

Marchesi di Barolo 2012 Monferrato Barbera Maraia, Italy $13 Barbera is the workhorse grape of northwest and north central Italy, more rustic and better suited to everyday fare than the esteemed Nebbiolo, maker of “Sunday” wines. In , Alba Barberas are the most “serious,” Asti’s lighter hearted, and Monferrato’s the most carefree of all. This one’s aptly named Maraia, in local dialect a lively, vivacious young child. My, is this one zesty! It’s replete with Barbera black cherry, black pepper, and pitch hallmarks. Begs for spaghetti carbonara. FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 9 Results of the 18th Annual Consumers Wine Judging

DOUBLE GOLD NV Merlot Redwood Creek CA 6 Cabernet Sauvignon-Ventura Cnty Stone Pine Estate NV Merlot Turning Leaf Vyds CA CA Up To $10.00 NV Moscato Barefoot Cellars CA 10 Shiraz-Temecula Fazeli Cellars CA NV Moscato-Refresh Turning Leaf Vyds CA NV Moscato Madria Sangria CA 10 Artistry Girard Winery CA NV Perfectly Pink Barefoot Refresh CA NV Niagara Mist Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 11 Cabernet Sauvignon-Santa Barbara Sagebrush Annie’s 12 White Riesling Wollersheim Winery WI 12 Pinot Grigio Cedar Creek Winery WI CA 12 Pinot Noir-Trentino Cavit Collection Italy $10.01 - $15.00 NV Pinot Noir Redwood Creek CA $50.01+ 12 Borealis Lakewood Vyds. NY 11 Pinot Noir Blanc-Estate Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY NV Black Gold Chateau Thomas Winery IN NV Reggae White Reggae Wines IN 7 Extended Disgorge Prix Reserve CA $15.01 - $20.00 NV Rich Red Blend Redwood Creek CA NV Chambourcin Bordeleau Winery MD NV Riesling Barefoot Cellars CA BRONZE 12 Sauvignon Blanc-Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY NV Riesling Turning Leaf Vyds CA Up To $10.00 12 Riesling-Dry Wollersheim Winery WI NV Cabernet Sauvignon Barefoot Cellars CA $20.01 - $27.00 NV Sangria Tradicional Madria Sangria CA NV Cabernet Sauvignon Carlo Rossi CA 7 Barbera-Twin Creeks Vyd Sunset Cellars CA NV Sauvignon Blanc Barefoot Cellars CA NV Cabernet Sauvignon Turning Leaf Vyds CA NV Sweet White Barefoot Refresh CA NV Chardonnay Redwood Creek CA $27.01 - $35.00 NV White Zinfandel Barefoot Cellars CA NV Cuvee Rouge Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 10 Hagafen Cellars CA NV Founder’s White St. Julian Wine MI 9 Petite Sirah Black Mesa Winery NM $10.01 - $15.00 NV Impresion Barefoot Cellars CA 10 Cabernet Franc-Finger Lakes Wagner Vineyards NY 12 Long Stem Red Lakewood Vyds. NY $35.01 - $40.00 NV Chardonnay-Barrel Fermented Bordeleau Winery MD 10 Malbec-Himno Bicentenario Zemlia Argentina 10 Merlot- Knoll Trefethen Family Vineyards CA 11 Chardonnay-Leelanaw Cnty Silver Leaf MI NV Merlot Barefoot Cellars CA 8 Cabernet Sauvignon Resv-Lyric of the Vine R & B Cellars 12 Chenin Blanc-Lodi Six Hands Winery CA NV Northern White Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY CA 12 Gewurztraminer-Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY 11 Pink Moscato Pink Press CA 12 Glaciovinum Lakewood Vyds. NY NV Pinot Grigio Barefoot Bubbly CA GOLD 12 Glass Slipper Hidden Creek PA NV Pinot Grigio Barefoot Cellars CA Up To $10.00 13 Happy Trails Fiesta Winery TX NV Pinot Noir Barefoot Cellars CA 12 Malbec Familia Llaver Oro Argentina 11 Merlot-Los Osos J. Lohr Vineyards CA 12 Pinot Noir Toschi Vineyards CA 10 Malbec Finca Constantina Argentina NV Muscato Santa Fe Vineyards NM NV Pinot Noir Turning Leaf Vyds CA 12 d’Abruzzo Citra Italy 10 Petite Sirah Six Hands Winery CA 12 Prairie Fume’ Wollersheim Winery WI 12 Moscato-Trentino Cavit Collection Italy 11 Pinot Gris-Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY 12 Prairie Sunburst Red Wollersheim Winery WI NV Pink Moscato Refresh Turning Leaf Vyds CA 12 Pinot Gris-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. NY NV Red Moscato Barefoot Bubbly CA 12 Riesling-Semi-Dry Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY NV Red Moscato Barefoot Cellars CA $10.01 - $15.00 12 Riesling-Select Wagner Vineyards NY NV Red Moscato Refresh Turning Leaf Vyds CA 12 Bull Frog’s Keg Hidden Creek PA 12 Riesling L.H. St. Julian Wine MI NV Reggae Blush Reggae Wines IN 12 Carmen re-Central Vly Terra Andina Chile 12 Riesling Whole Cluster Braganini Reserve MI 12 Riesling-Bay Mist J. Lohr Vineyards CA 11 Chardonnay Cedar Creek Winery WI 12 Riesling-Dry-Estate Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY NV Roaring Red Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 12 Chardonnay-Riverstone J. Lohr Vineyards CA 12 Riesling-Dry-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. NY NV Seyval/Chardonnay Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY NV Chocolate Blend-Cream ChocolatRouge CA 12 Riesling-Dry Sprucewood Shores Estate NV Shiraz Barefoot Cellars CA NV Chocolate Blend-Dark Red ChocolatRouge CA ONT-CAN NV Summer Red Barefoot Refresh CA NV Chocolate Blend-Sweet Red ChocolatRouge CA 12 Riesling-Dry St. Julian Wine MI NV Sweet Red Barefoot Cellars CA 12 Malbec-Reserva Virtus Argentina 11 Riesling-Dry-Finger Lakes Wagner Vineyards NY 12 Valdiguie-Wildflower J. Lohr Vineyards CA 10 Merlot Six Hands Winery CA 11 -Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY 12 Waterfall Riesling Cedar Creek Winery WI 12 Riesling-Semi-Dry Dr. Konstantin Frank NY NV Rosso Dolce Roscato Italy 12 Riesling L.H.-Estate Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 11 Syrah-South Ridge J. Lohr Vineyards CA $10.01 - $15.00 12 Riesling-Dry-Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY 12 Traminette Braganini Reserve MI 12 Chardonnay Braganini Reserve MI 12 Vidal Blanc Gray Ghost Vyds. VA 9 Chardonnay Kavic Winery PA $15.01 - $20.00 12 Vidal Blanc L.H. Braganini Reserve MI 12 Chardonnay-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. NY 10 Cabernet Sauvignon-Estate Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 12 Domaine du Sac Wollersheim Winery WI 12 Chardonnay Grande River Vyds. CO $15.01 - $20.00 NV Gewurztraminer-Yakima Vly Chateau Thomas Winery IN 9 Merlot Vino e Buono CO 11 2011 Prestige Six Hands Winery CA 12 Gewurztraminer-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. NY 11 Montepulciano Black Mesa Winery NM NV Baco Noir-Red Belhurst Estate NY 12 Berry Franklin Hill Vineyards PA 12 Muscat Ottonel-Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY 13 Black on Black Cullari Winery PA 11 Lady In Red Sprucewood Shores Estate 11 The Novelist Cosentino Winery CA 10 Cabernet Franc-Estate Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY ONT-CAN 8 Zinfandel Vino e Buono CO 11 Cabernet Franc-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. NY NV Malvasia Bianca Santa Fe Vineyards NM 8 Cabernet Sauvignon-Afterglow Sunset Cellars CA 12 Pinot Gris-Leelanaw Cnty Silver Leaf MI $20.01 - $27.00 11 Chardonnay-Barrel Fermented Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 12 Ranch Rose’ Six Hands Winery CA 10 “Cabernet Franc-Clarksburg, CA” Chateau Thomas Winery 11 Lemberger-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. NY 12 Redhead Franklin Hill Vineyards PA IN 9 Malbec-Gran Reserva Carmine Granata Argentina 11 Riesling-Semi-Dry Wagner Vineyards NY 11 Chardonnay-Arroyo Vista J. Lohr Vineyards CA 10 Merlot-Estate Chateau LaFayette Reneau NY 12 Riesling Semi-Sweet-Finger Lakes Lakewood Vyds. 12 Chardonnay Spangler Vyds OR 10 Merlot-Amador Cnty Chateau Thomas Winery IN NY 11 Chardonnay-Russian River Vly Windsor Sonoma Winery CA 10 Merlot-Finger Lakes Dr. Konstantin Frank NY 12 Riesling-Dry Braganini Reserve MI 12 Riesling-Dry-Oak Knoll Trefethen Family Vineyards CA 11 Merlot-North Coast Ray’s Station Winery CA 12 Sauvignon Blanc-North Coast Cartlidge & Browne CA 12 Vidal Blanc I.W.-Finger Lakes Wagner Vineyards NY 11 Pinot Noir-Falcons’s Perch J. Lohr Vineyards CA 12 Sauvignon Blanc-Flume Crossing J. Lohr Vineyards 12 Roussanne-Don Ernesto Collage Hagafen Cellars CA $27.01 - $35.00 CA 12 Sauvignon Blanc Six Hands Winery CA 12 Black Spanish Fiesta Winery TX 12 Sauvignon Blanc-Sonoma Sonoma Coast Vyds. CA 8 Cabernet Sauvignon-Ventura Cnty Sagebrush Annie’s NV The Improviser R & B Cellars CA $15.01 - $20.00 CA 12 Viognier Grande River Vyds. CO 9 Blaufrankisch Kavic Winery PA 10 Merlot-Minuet R & B Cellars CA NV Vodka-Michigan Dew St. Julian MI 11 Cabernet Sauvignon-Seven Oaks J. Lohr Vineyards NV Que Sirah Silkwood Wines CA 12 Zinfandel-Swingsville R & B Cellars CA CA 9 Cabernet Sauvignon Vino e Buono CO $35.01 - $40.00 $20.01 - $27.00 12 Chardonnay-Proprietor’s Reserve Chateau LaFayette Reneau NV Silkwood Wines CA 12 Adieu Gray Ghost Vyds. VA NY 4 Malbec-Gran Reserva Vinavida Argentina 10 Cabernet Sauvignon-Estate Fraser Winery ID 12 Chardonnay Gray Ghost Vyds. VA 12 Chardonnay-Oak Knoll Hagafen Cellars CA 12 Dry Rose Belhurst Estate NY $40.01 - $50.00 11 Malbec Fiesta Winery TX NV Golden Pheasant Belhurst Estate NY 10 Cabernet Franc-Temecula Fazeli Cellars CA 10 Meritage-Red-Finger Lakes Wagner Vineyards NY 8 Malbec-Reserva Vinavida Argentina 11 Tempranillo-Snake River Vly Fraser Winery ID $20.01 - $27.00 11 Pinot Noir Prix Reserve CA 10 Viognier Spangler Vyds OR 12 Cabernet Franc Gray Ghost Vyds. VA 8 Cabernet Sauvignon Spangler Vyds OR $50.01+ $27.01 - $35.00 NV Celebre Chateau Frank NY 9 Cabernet Franc Prix Reserve CA 8 Blanc de Blancs Chateau Frank NY 11 Claret Spangler Vyds OR 7 Melange Prix Reserve CA 7 Blanc de Noir Chateau Frank NY 10 Claret Spangler Vyds OR 10 Cabernet Sauvignon Mission Mountain Winery MT 11 Merlot Belhurst Estate NY SILVER NV Chanson des Etoiles R & B Cellars CA 12 Riesling-Reserve Dr. Konstantin Frank NY Up To $10.00 11 Chardonnay-Oak Knoll Trefethen Family Vineyards CA 12 Riesling-I.W.-Finger Lakes Wagner Vineyards NY 12 Bon Vivant Cedar Creek Winery WI 10 Malbec Black Mesa Winery NM 6 Vintage Port Chateau Thomas Winery IN NV Brut Cuvee Barefoot Bubbly CA 11 Malbec-Columbia Vly Fraser Winery ID 12 Viognier Spangler Vyds OR NV Chardonnay Barefoot Cellars CA 11 Merlot Hagafen Cellars CA 11 White Port Wollersheim Winery WI NV Chardonnay Carlo Rossi CA 8 Port-style Santa Fe Vineyards NM NV Chardonnay Turning Leaf Vyds CA 11 Sauvignon Blanc Prix Reserve CA $27.01 - $35.00 NV Crisp White Barefoot Refresh CA NV Triple Threat Carivintas Winery CA 12 Chardonnay-Reserve Gray Ghost Vyds. VA 11 Crisp White Refresh Turning Leaf Vyds CASL NV Vodka Grey Heron MI 12 Chardonnay-Sarabande R & B Cellars CA NV Founder’s Red St. Julian Wine MI 10 Zinfandel Black Mesa Winery NM 10 Manitou Belhurst Estate NY 12 LaBelle Vie Cedar Creek Winery WI 10 Zinfandel-Allegrezza R & B Cellars CA 11 Ranger Reserve Gray Ghost Vyds. VA 11 Malbec Redwood Creek Argentina 10 Zinfandel-Zydeco R & B Cellars CA 12 Malbec Virtus Argentina $35.01 - $40.00 7 Petite Sirah Silkwood Wines CA 11 Malbec Zemlia Argentina 10 Cabernet Sauvignon-Resv. Gray Ghost Vyds. VA 9 The Poet Cosentino Winery CA 10 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL WLI 2013 Double Gold Tasting Notes

Up to $10.00 Dr. Konstantin Frank, 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Finger Lakes, NY $35.01 - $40.00 Wollershim Winery, Totally engrossing at first smell. Full, - lus Trefethen, 2010 Merlot, Napa, California 2012 White Riesling, Wisconsin cious bouquet and characteristic variety An amiable pepper spice aroma that blends A semi-sweet Riesling, as we know and love aroma. A crisp, citrus flavor follows that is into dark fruit and berry flavors and a -lus this increasingly popular wine grape variety. reminiscent of the famous Marlborough area, cious, long lasting aftertaste. A quality Merlot A flawlessly balanced wine of natural- re yet with its own distinctive style. An excep- of distinction that deserves your best cut of sidual sugar, acid, ripe nut-fruit flavors and tional, balanced wine that engulfs and pleases roasted tenderloin topped with a rich, fruit- delightful floral aromas. A pleasing wine to all the senses. The luscious citrus fruits linger reduced sauce and a special dinner guest. En- drink within the next two years and serve in the mouth. The winery suggests matching joy with just the two of you. with appetizers for your holiday or for a cold this brilliant wine with freshwater fish, and cuts menu of summer entertaining. we agree wholeheartly.

Barefoot Refresh, $20.01 – $27.00 NV Perfectly Pink, California Guests are greeted with a glittering efferves- Sunset, 2007 Barbera, Napa, California cence in the glass right from the very first To quote the bottle’s back label; “Dark cherry pour. Vibrant aromas of peach and tangerine and floral aromas explode from the glass and tantalize the nose and then rewards with the lead to rich, mouthfilling black cherry and same essence of the tangy fruit in the mouth. plum flavors with hints of licorice, almonds The winery suggests, “This light bodied wine and a touch of pepper on the lingering finish.” pairs exceptionally well with a day at the We would add a hint of chocolate on the nose, pool or beach, a backyard BBQ, or any Bare- but the rest is dead on! A smooth, full-bodied foot occasion!” Cute, but we can’t disagree. beauty for an Italian dinner table of grilled meat and red sauce pasta or risotto. Turning Leaf Refresh, NV Moscato, California $27.01 – 35.00 Another trendy product from Gallo. A quaf- fable, low alcohol (9%) Moscato that is light Hagafen, 2010 Cabernet Franc, and refreshing with a hint of effervescence Napa, California to tingle the palate. A very pleasing introduc- With a little coaxing of a twirling glass, this tory wine for the consumers just entering the wine gives off a pleasing aroma that entices world of wine. Anyone remember Bartels the senses to proceed with a tasting. Dur- $40.01 - $50.00 and James coolers? Perfect party wine for all ing the pour, the eyes are delighted with a occasions. dark inky-color. You’re rewarded with a dis- R&B Cellars, 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon tinct and flavorful varietal taste that fills the Reserve, Napa, California $10.01 – $15.00 mouth. With the presence of working tannin, A wonderful, vibrant aroma engulfs the ol- this wine will age nicely for at least another factory and alerts the other senses that there Lakewood, NV Borealis, 5+ years and be perfect for grilled meat and/ is something special coming. Flavors of dark Finger Lakes, NY or garden-fresh vegetables. berry fruit and even a hint of cassis. French Big and abundant aromas of Concord grapes oak is used perfectly to stabilize a complete offering memories of cotton candy. This is Black Mesa, 2009 Petite Sirah, flavor profile that shows a slight taste of clas- not your father’s grape juice. This wine is a New Mexico sic cabernet dark chocolate. From one of the very sophisticated with perfect bal- A dark, deep garnet color meets the eye and oldest vineyards in Napa to your elegant din- ance and an “all-inclusive dessert in a glass.” promises more pleasure to come in the glass. er table featuring beef bourguignon or cha- The distinctive Petite Sirah black berry and teaubriand. $15.01 – 20.00 currant stands out with honors when the well-balanced wine meets the taste buds and Bordeleau, NV Chambourcin Lot #5, yearns to be accompanied with a T-bone or Maryland poterhouse steak off the grill and topped with Chambourcin is a French-American hybrid garlic olive oil or gorgonzola butter when wine grape variety. This particular wine from plated. Bordeleau is beautifully deep-colored with full aromatic senses of the grape without un- pleasant hybrid characteristics. Clean, dry, A complete searchable list of wine judging and well-balanced red that would results can be found at the Tasters Guild website, be fun to match with a dark chocolate des- sert. www.tastersguild.com.

FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 11 By Michael Schafer Zinfandel - What's Your Style?

The Zinfandel grape is made into a wide For many of us, our first sip of wine was tantalizing choice. A classic match is your variety of wines. From the much-maligned a “white zin.” While belittled by some wine favorite grilled cheese sandwich - try it! White Zinfandel (really a blush wine), to snobs, White Zinfandel opened the door to Old vine , while not having a rich, heavy port-styles and many variations the wonderful world of wine for millions legal definition of “old vines,” are frequently in-between, Zinfandel is enjoyable in a rich of wine drinkers. Thank goodness for this made from 50+ year old vines. These are palette of styles. It’s one of America’s most blush wine! the rock-stars of the Zinfandel world. Big, popular grapes in both acreage planted and White Zinfandel was a happy accident. bold and brawny with layers of licorice, gallons enjoyed. Sutter Home Winery was producing a lot of bramble and blackberries, these versions The majority of Zinfandel worldwide is Zinfandel in the 1970s. Most of the wine was of Zinfandel are coveted for their intense grown in California. The AVA (American the traditional red variety; however some of aromas and flavors. If properly made, these Viticultural Area) that produces the grapes the juice was “bled off” before fermentation “bad boys” can age for years, softening their has a monumental effect on the wine made to increase the flavor of the remaining wine. harsh tannins and developing complexity to from those grapes. Zinfandels from Dry This juice was fermented separately and rival, dare we say it, Cabernet Sauvignon. Creek Valley in Sonoma County or from made into “White Zinfandel,” a dry, pale The jammy fruit and toasty elements meld Howell Mountain near Napa are very pink wine. In 1975, Sutter Home Winery’s into a mouthful of baking spices deep red different wines than those from Lodi or winemaker had a “stuck fermentation.” The fruits, and earthy, smoky flavors. Often high Amador County. It has historically been problem was that the yeast died before it in alcohol, they frequently need time to planted as part of a “field blend” with other consumed all the sugar in the fermenting mellow out. red grapes such as Grenache, Carignan, and juice. Putting the problem juice away, Grilled rib eye steak, lamb chops, traditional Petite Sirah. These field blends were started the winemaker, Bob Trinchero, tasted the pepperoni pizza, venison, and brisket are by Italian immigrants who knew Zinfandel “stuck juice” weeks later, and, voila, the all complemented by a brawny Zinfandel. as Primitivo. White Zinfandel loved by millions was Full-flavored cheeses like cheddar and aged While many Americans consider Zinfandel born! Sweeter and softer than the previous Gruyere pair well with that well-aged bottle. to be “the” American grape, recent DNA version, this new White Zinfandel became a Port-styled Zinfandels are a fantastic finish testing has proven that its origins are not phenomenon in the wine business. to your holiday repast. Rich, sweet, and Italian as many first believed, but Croation. White Zinfandel is known for aromas unctuous, these full-bodied wines can be Yes, you read that correctly, Zinfandel has of strawberries, cherries, cranberries and dessert all by themselves. The winemaking its “roots’ in Croatia! This does get a bit flowers. Usually sweet, it’s fruity and process is essentially the same as for the involved. quaffable. Frequently consumed by itself, other styles of red Zinfandel except that Known in Croatia as Crljenak Kastelanski, White Zinfandel pairs well with a wide the grapes used are picked later than other meaning “the red from Kastela”, this ancient variety of dishes. Due to its sweetness, Zinfandel grapes. Then, when the must (the grape was investigated by a team from the spicy foods like chicken wings, Indian food pressed juice containing all the stems and renowned University of Davis in California such as curries, and spicy Asian entrees like skins) is just right, unaged brandy is added collaborating with researchers from the Pad Thai are complemented by the blush to stop the fermentation process. The brandy University of Zagreb in Croatia. Croation- Zinfandel. Be adventurous! If your version kills the hungry yeast, leaving lots of sugar born Mike Grgich, the famous Napa Valley is quite sweet, desserts with berries are a behind. That’s what makes this style of winemaker, championed this “Zinquest” delicious match. Zinfandel a dessert wine. to determine the true home of Zinfandel. Red Zinfandel offers enthusiasts a range The rich lushness of these wines evokes According to , the legendary of aroma and flavor profiles. Lighter styled aromas and flavors of cocoa, coffee, raisins, wine author, an elderly woman from Split, Zinfandels smell of raspberries, red flowers, toffee and blackberry jam. If you want to Croatia provided a single 90 year old vine strawberries, and cranberries. If aged in oak be deliciously decadent, pair one of these from her garden to confirm that Zinfandel for a short time, flavors of vanilla and coconut sweeties with chocolate cake, berries dipped was a Croatian grape! tempt the taste buds. These medium bodied in chocolate, dark chocolate or chocolate In Split, Croatia, the grape has been called examples are usually very easy to drink. ganche. Are you getting the hint? If you’re Tribidrag since the 15th century. Yet another Their texture is soft yet firm, beautifully not a chocolate fan, enjoy one with Stilton alias for this unique grape! Whew, so much balanced wines. Fruity Zinfandels are best cheese and toasted walnuts, just as you for folks thinking Zinfandel came from Italy enjoyed young, within two to three years of would a classic Porto from Portugal. as the Primitivo grape. We’ll stick with bottling. Often compared to Beaujolais, they However you enjoy your Zinfandel, from Zinfandel as our moniker for this mysterious are deeper, spicier and usually a bit higher the fresh and fruity blush White Zinfandel, vinifera grape. in alcohol than wines from Burgundy’s to the classic medium bodied berry version, southern neighbor. As with any wine, the to the old vines version, or the port-style A Zinfandel for Everyone longer the wine is aged in oak the more dessert wine, have fun! Cheers! As illustrated by its history, Zinfandel is pronounced the oaky aromas and flavors a chameleon of a grape. We’ll explore four become. Michael Schafer Esq., The Wine Counselor®, styles of this wine, from blush, to medium These medium-styled versions of Zinfandel is the charismatic wine educator, speaker, bodied, to bold and robust, to decadently pair perfectly with hamburgers, ribs or , C.S.W., writer and consultant sweet. Possible food pairings with the chicken with a sweeter style bbq sauce, and who entertains while educating. His various styles of Zinfandel will complete prosciutto (with or without melon). For your humorous and fun approach to wine is our journey. holiday turkey, a mid-weight Zinfandel is a reflected in his trademark phrase, “I taste 12 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL bad wine so you don’t have to”®

www.winecounselor.net By Richard Vine, PhD Matchmaking Science

The late Jerry Mead was a widely read The salt of glutamic acid is a component to keep their palates refreshed. But utility west coast wine columnist whose free spirit in monosodium glutamate (MSG), long is another thing. Perhaps this economic voice often stated that any good wine would employed to enhance taste intensity in food principle can hold for wine and food, too. match well with any equally good food. It preparations. With umami compounds Do we find fewer and fewer utils of umami was a radical departure condemned by rigid identified as key in distinguishing fine wine in each additional sip and bite until we are wine traditionalists who clung to the long from ordinary, it may be possible one day to full and the prospect of consuming any truisms of white wine with fish and red wine integrate wine umami with food umami to more has no value for us? Could there be with beef. Mead’s blasphemy was actually project some manner of measuring potential a range of umami compounds measured intended to give reluctant younger wine matchmaking pleasure before we even taste and integrated that could suggest to us that imbibers courage to trust their own palates. them – much as we can with the other taste a particular wine and food combination His bold disdain of starchy customs had a senses today. has some numeric synergy of flavors that profoundly positive influence in America’s One of the elements in such measurements diminish at some expected rate? cultural embrace of wine during the 1970s, might be utility – the economic determinate This may all seem bizarre but the complex 80s and 90s. Perhaps it was this unfettered that employs utils as a measure of value or world of wine and food matching pleasures reform that gave David Rosengarten and a hypothetical unit gauging satisfaction. have long since trumped convention Joshua Wesson some of their inspiration to For example, an economist might assign 10 and perhaps science may eventually write Red Wine With Fish: The New Art of utils of umami value on the first sip of wine be able to give us more guidance than Matching Wine With Food, published by for someone parched of thirst. The second recommendations from experts whose Simon and Schuster in 1989. Both men sip may be worth only 9, just 7 on the third tastes and preferences may be far different were then up and coming wine and food and so on until that thirst was completely from ours. writers who brought fresh ideas to fine satiated when the wine would then have few dining. Since then the scope of wine and economic utils or none at all. This is not Dr. Vine has authored four wine books and food association has gone ballistic with the to be confused with palate fatigue such as is Purdue University’s Professor of Enology culinary media hawking boundless creations that plagued in wine competitions. Judges Emeritus. He recently retired after 21 of cookery attached to new wine expressions typically taste more than 100 wines per day years as the Wine Consultant for American from around the globe. and use bread, water, cheese, meat and olives Airlines Despite this largess of contemporary foodie cogitation surely most thinking people have their own ideas of what wines marry best with which foods. For some of us senior souls it has taken years of expensive and failed experience to achieve a comfort zone of flavor harmonies. More and more I learn from colleagues that they have come to reject the tired old convention of caviar and champagne – vodka instead as it works to lift up the bold fishiness that knocks down delicate bubbly character. And some foods don’t allow a pairing with wine at all. Say what you will but, in my opinion, the only wine that marries well with beef tacos is Coca-Cola.

Science Steps In The advance of some interesting scientific study may bring food and wine marriage to something less subjective. The idea of a fifth gustatory sense, called umami, Hakushika was added to those of sweet, sour, bitter Ginjo Sake and salty about 100 years ago. Umami is translated as “pleasant savory taste” - a Gentle taste with fresh fruity concept first introduced in the early 1900’s Ginjo flavor, light on the palate, by Professor Kikunae Ikeda in Japan. 800-836-3894 goes down very smooth During the last couple of decades Tim www.pedroncelli.com with a suppressed sweetness. 1220 Canyon Road, Geyserville, CA Hanni, a Master of Wine, has championed Simple, yet unique taste. U.S. research for the presence of organic Follow us at: compounds that comprise the umami taste facebook.com/pedroncelliwinery in wine. Among those found so far are twitter.com/pedroncelli certain 5’ ribonucleotides and glutamic acid.

FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 13 By Dr. Charles R. Thomas, M.D. The Physician's Conundrum Ed. Note: The following is an excerpt of Dr. Thomas’ latest book, “Practical Wine Talk; A Physician-Winemaker Examines Wine” published by AuthorHouse, Bloomington, IN

There exists a conundrum for physicians findings would be of interest to you. While of the grape skin is the responsible regarding the physician’s advice regarding there, I was inducted into the prestigious factor. Cocoa and apples are also rich in the use of alcohol. Often, the physician who Renaud Society founded by Professor Serge procyanidins. He found, interestingly, opts out of this decision is merely attempting Renaud, M.D. of Lyon, France who was the that extraction of procyanidin does not to escape his responsibility to the patient so researcher who appeared on The 60 Minutes occur until fermentation reaches 6-12% that he can avoid accusations of blame, or Programs on CBS revealing the “French alcohol. The significance here is that those worse yet, a lawsuit. He owes the patient Paradox.” winemakers who are taking the wine off the advice and insight into the pros and cons The program included an erudite summary grape skins early in fermentation to preserve of drinking and an honest recommendation of our current knowledge by Curtis Ellison, color may, in fact, be failing to extract this on the subject of moderate consumption in M.D., Boston University who discussed that important element of wine. This finding also appropriate social circumstances. there is no longer a debate as to whether explains why wine polyphenols didn’t seem If he advises moderate drinking, does he regular alcohol consumption will prevent to be effective in the absence of alcohol. shoulder responsibility for patient’s actions cardiovascular disease and prolong your His studies found the wine with the most if he over-consumes? I think not! life, but when will governments of the procyanidins was Tannat, He also reported Nearly all patients who initiate moderate world accept it and recommend it as a that oak tannins are not biologically active. drinking for their health already know if way to good health. Studies throughout Arthur Klatsky, M.D., Senior Consultant they have a “dependent” personality. the world demonstrate that moderate in Cardiology, Kaiser Permanente, reported Several studies have failed to show drinking consisting of one or two drinks that there seems to be no truth to the notion that initiation of regular drinking causes most every day is the key to long life and that hypertensive individuals need to stop alcoholism. The false premise, that drinking good heart health. It is the consistency drinking. Moderate wine consumption does cause alcoholism, however, seems to be and the regularity of consumption, not the doesn’t cause high blood pressure. the basis for many politicians, lawmakers, amount. This phenomenon is due to the Throughout the conference, various studies media reporters, and medical personnel’s anticoagulation effect of the alcohol, which were cited that found that the moderate use failure to take responsible action in this keeps blood platelets from sticking together. of alcohol reduces the incidence of Type arena. Or is it a cop-out? This anti-clotting effect lasts about one day II Diabetes and often improves the insulin Seven to nine percent of every population after drinking, so for effective prevention, resistance of those who are diabetic. Stephan in the world has an addictive, alcoholic you can’t just drink on weekends. Binge Kamholz, M.D., New York University of personality. Beyond this group, there seems drinking (more than 4 drinks to be little variation in incidence. at one time) is even worse. Regardless of the medication, activity, or He also reported that in The lifestyle in question, it is the physician’s Framingham Heart Study duty to make a reasonable assessment of (the longest health study in the patient’s medical history, family history, the U.S. and a study that has physical examination, allergies, habits, and been on-going since 1948) desires. Having made a good-faith decision the previously reported based on these parameters, the physician increase in breast cancer should not and cannot be responsible for the was not found in those who patient’s subsequent behavior, if contrary to drank moderately; in fact, his advice. they found a small decrease When I practiced medicine, I wrote over 25 to 45 years. Most prescriptions frequently. Did I tell a patient other cancers reported with that she couldn’t have a prescription for drinking are seen only in estrogen tablets because I couldn’t trust those who abuse alcohol. that she would only take one a day? Did A very recent study has I withhold antibiotics for the same reason? reported that there is no No! The physician needs to make those connection with drinking assessments, recommend to the patient a and cancer of the pancreas. course of action, and then let the patient take The most interesting the responsibility for that action. talk was by Roger Corder, Ph.D., University of Recent Health News London, who reported I attended a weeklong conference of the on recent biochemical 5th International Wine and HeartHealth research concerning which Summit sponsored by The Wine Spectator component of the red wine in Walla Walla, Washington. In attendance polyphenols was responsible were most all of the prominent researchers for the reduction in heart in the field of alcohol, heart disease, and attacks. A substance called general health. I felt a summary of their new “procyanidin,” a derivative

14 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Medicine described a 28-year study that found the incidence of cancer of the lung was decreased 56% in moderate wine drinkers due to red wine’s antioxidants and especially resveratrol’s known anti-cancer actions. Lastly, each of the conference’s chairman, Tedd Goldfinger, D.O., University of Arizona, (The Wine Lover’s Healthy Weight Loss Plan) and Roger Corder, Ph.D. (see above), (The Red Wine Diet) have written books touting a wine diet for weight loss. Both books are interesting and well-written. On February 21, 2013, it was announced by Michael Seidman, Director of the Department of Otolaryngology at Henry Ford Hospital in Detroit, that he has shown with rat studies that resveratrol, the antioxidant in red wine, protects from the expected hearing loss from repetitive loud noise. He states that resveratrol is a powerful chemical that protects against the body’s inflammatory process as it relates to aging, cognition, and hearing loss. His work seems to explain earlier reports of hearing improvement with red wine that were not well understood. Dr. Steidman believes hearing loss impacts more than hearing; but also sleep and communication. This is further evidence to confirm my earlier statement that eventually, we will learn the “why and the “how” of the things we know to be true.

FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 15 By Joe Borrello A Culinary Emancipation Proclomation

management problem. All chefs, cooks, Proclamation #7. The guest has the right service people and bartenders should to undertip or not tip at all if the service be trained from the same “hymn book.” is poor. Nothing is more disheartening than to Contrary to the viewpoints of some service discover a real restaurant gem, then return people who think they have an inherent right with friends the following week, only to be to be tipped a full twenty percent, tipping treated to an elaborate disaster. is still a reward for a job well done. Tip according to the service you’ve received, Proclamation #4. The guest shall have under tip for unsatisfactory service and the right to return dishes to the kitchen leave more for exceptional service. Don’t for reasonable cause. be intimidated by arrogant servers; if you The key phrase here is “reasonable cause.” get some verbal abuse, just explain why the In other words, food that is cold, spoiled, gratuity is less than normal. prepared differently than what was ordered, or not what was ordered at all. Just because Proclamation #8. The guest pledges to be you don’t like the taste may not be sufficient fair and willing to give management the A few years ago I read an article by cause and the restaurant is well within its opportunity to correct any unsatisfactory Anthony Dias Blue in which he introduced right to bill you for the meal. This right of service. his “Diner’s Bill of Rights.” Since we refusal is cancelled, however, if it is not If, however, an establishment continues to have all experienced various forms of exercised after the first few bites. If the food treat guests poorly, serves bad food or wine, dissatisfaction in a restaurant, I compiled is good enough halfway through, it’s good and does not offer to make restitution for some of Mr. Blue’s ideas, plus my own enough all the way through. shoddy service and inferior product brought viewpoints, and present them here as “A to its attention, then fight back with the Culinary Emancipation Proclamation.” Proclamation #5. The guest has the right ultimate weapon. Don’t go back!…and go to have the wine opened at the table and forth into the world and spread the word. Proclamation #1. The guest shall have the poured into glasses larger than giant right to expect a table within a reasonable thimbles. time from the agreed-upon reservation Obviously, presenting a guest with an time. unopened bottle of wine assures that which I have no problem with a cocktail in the is ordered is also served. When wine is lounge for a 15 minute wait while the table uncorked at the table, the possibility of is being cleared and reset, but an hour or substituting a Mongolian burgundy for the more is unacceptable. Establishments that $200 Chateau Lafite is eliminated. As for are overbooking should be prepared to suffer the stemware in which it’s served, part of the the inevitable consequence of dissatisfied enjoyment and romance of wine is swirling guests. We do, however, relinquish this right and inhaling the fragrance. That requires if we are so inconsiderate as to not arrive at an 8 to 10 ounce glass, not a 4 or 5 ounce the reserved time. thimble filled to the top. As in the previous proclamation, we also have the right to Proclamation #2. The diner has the right reject a bad bottle of wine. Notice I said bad to expect that what’s being served is what and not “don’t like.” Just because you don’t was ordered. like the particular bottle you ordered is no Ever been served a cut or quality of meat that fault of the restaurant. On the other hand, differed from what you ordered, by someone you’re not responsible for bad storage or who apparently figured you wouldn’t know mishandling causing a corky smell and taste the difference? Or how about the situation in or spoilage of the wine. Establish that you which you order a traditional entrée from the know what you’re talking about and don’t menu and are served some concoction you be intimidated. never knew was possible? I don’t appreciate Hakushika Proclamation #6. The guest has the right being conned by a “switch artist” in the Chokara Sake kitchen. If the chef adds a personal touch to to a correctly totaled and legible check. Never assume the bottom line is correct a traditional dish, I prefer to be forewarned. Dry taste with rich full body, If I want surprises, I’ll order the “leftover without checking it first. I can’t tell you the sharp end and smooth on the palate. special.” number of times I’ve found that 1 and 1 add up to 3 — or that all the scribbling included The Tatsuuma family provides you with a grand, traditional Japanese Proclamation #3. The guest has the right two desserts from the next table. Even those to expect consistency in a restaurant. computer registers have a tendency to repeat experience As in any business, this is a basic an item occasionally.

16 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 17 By Joe Borrello Ask Tasters Guild

Q. I’ve heard that the grape variety Syrah variety. In fact, DNA research claims that originated in ancient Persia. Is that true? Cabernet Sauvignon is the off-spring of a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon A. Legend has it that the Syrah grape came Blanc — a white grape, no less. By the from the Persian city of Shiraz (the name way, the grape variety known as Cabernet of the grape as it known in Australia) and Sauvignon accounts for only about 1% of the was introduced in France from Cyprus by world’s grape acreage planted to grapes. Crusaders returning home from the Middle East in the 13th century. Also popular is the Q. While touring a famous Champagne tale that Roman legions brought the grape cellar in France, I was memorized variety from Egypt, via Syracuse. French watching the winery’s “riddler” turning winemakers, however, believe the grape the bottles. How many do these pros turn Q. What is meant by the “legs” of a wine variety is indigenous to France. Recent DNA in a day? on the inside of the ? research supports the French claim. It seems the parents of Syrah are Modeuse Blanche and A. Although the tendency these days is A. First, let me tell you what “legs” or “tears” Dureza, two lesser known French varieties to mechanically turn Champagne bottles, do not represent on the inside of the glass. which nature happened to cross pollinate to many of the old Champagne houses still They are not a sign of the quality of the wine create a new genetic variety that is currently employ professional “riddlers” for the nor do they represent the amount of glycerol catching the wine consumers fancy. traditional handling of methode champenoise in the wine. These are the two most popular wine bottles. (Riddling is the turning of misconceptions. The waves that form inside Q. Has the Cabernet Sauvignon wine Champagne bottles a quarter turn every day the glass after you swirl the wine are actually grape been around forever? to force sediment to the neck of the bottle an indication of the wine’s alcohol content – where it is then frozen and removed from the more alcohol, the more legs or tears flow A. As popular as Cabernet Sauvignon has the bottle.) The average number of bottles of down the side of the glass. been for hundreds of years in Europe and Champagne or sparkling wine a cellar worker now in the United States, one would be is expected to riddle by hand each day is Q. I bought what I thought was a bottle inclined to think that it is an indigenous around 50,000. Whew! of Champagne, but it says cremant on the bottle. What do I have?

A. Cremant is a French term, literally translated to “creaming,” applied to wines that are lightly sparkling. Some connoisseurs prefer a superior cremant to Champagne because of the subtle sparkle in the wine. Don’t confuse cremant for Cramant, an important wine-producing village in the Champagne region of France.

Q. What is the “ullage” of a ?

A. The space between the top of the wine and the bottom of the cork in the bottle is called the “ullage.” The ullage is usually about an inch and a half gap. When the gap is larger and the wine level is down to the shoulder of the bottle, one should be wary of the condition of the wine because too much oxygen may have crept into the bottle. Very old bottles of wine may lose wine through evaporation through the cork or the cork may have lost its seal and created a bottle “leaker.” In either case, uncork the bottle and test the wine. If it is still drinkable, do so, or top off the bottle and recork with a new closure.

18 FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL By Tasters Guild Kodak Moments

Email .jpg pictures of your chapter’s events to: [email protected] and we will review them for publication in the next issue of Kodak Moments.

FALL 2013 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL 19 celebrate responsibly.

©2013 F. Korbel & Bros., Guerneville, Sonoma County, CA. Producers of fi ne California méthode champenoise for 131 years. KORBEL is a registered trademark. korbel.com