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With artisan producers aplenty, Set among some of the most picturesque scenery in the state, Hobart’s surrounding valleys are home to a number of the state’s top food and beverage producers. Hobart’s surrounding valleys With interest in food provenance increasing, Tassie’s growers and producers are are a magnet for foodies and throwing their doors open to the public – both the Huon and Derwent Valleys are home to numerous cellar doors, farm gates and roadside retail outlets. boutique beverage enthusiasts. The Huon Valley is best known for its orchards and lush farmland, it’s the region that BY SARAH CHAPMAN puts the apple in The Apple Isle. The Derwent Valley is home to Tasmania’s hop fields as well as several top wineries and premium food experiences. And like so many parts of Tasmania, natural beauty is around every corner. If your passion is paddock to plate, Hobart’s surrounding valleys are an absolute must on your visit to the island state.
Eat/Drink/Shop
Photo: Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Nick Osborne
1 Lotus Eaters 2 Masaaki’s Sushi 3 Stefano Lubiana Cellar Door & Osteria Located in the charming town of Cygnet, Lotus Eaters One of the last places you’d expect to find some of the Regarded as one of the country’s top wine labels, the has made a name for itself among locals as the place for country’s best sushi is in a small logging town on the Stefano Lubiana cellar door has recently had a revamp healthy and delicious breakfasts and lunches. All dishes edge of the Tasmanian wilderness, but Masaaki Koyama in the form of a Tuscan-style Osteria and outside eating are made from scratch at the cafe and change weekly has been running his small sushi cafe in the regional area. Located at Granton, north of Hobart, the cellar based on the local produce available. Regular dishes town of Geeveston for five years now. Trained as a sushi door and osteria is set among the Stefano Lubiana include soup, tarts, pizza and salads. On weekends, chef in Osaka, Masaaki relocated to Tasmania to be biodynamic vineyard overlooking the Derwent River. dumplings, curries and pasta are also available. with his partner, Lucy. Now the stuff of urban legend, The vibe is rustic Italian and the menu changes weekly. 10 Mary Street, Cygnet his sushi and sashimi is known across the globe thanks Where possible, ingredients are sourced from the www.thelotuseaterscafe.com.au to intrepid foodies and blogger types. The cafe is only biodynamic kitchen garden located only metres from open Fridays and Saturdays, so make sure you book a where meals are plated. Try the antipasto platter and table before dropping by – the cafe is often booked out the carpaccio of Cape Grim Beef with anchovy and baby weeks in advance. Otherwise you can catch Masaaki at capers. The winery’s red, white and sparkling wines are Hobart’s Farm Gate Market each Sunday. available in the restaurant or at the cellar door, which is 20b Church Street, Geeveston open Thursday to Monday, 11am to 3pm. 60 Rowbottoms Road, Granton www.slw.com.au Hobart & Huon Valley
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Photo: Tourism Tasmania & James Hadaway Photo:Photo: Tourism Tourism Tasmania Tasmania & & Carol Nick HarberleOsborne Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Kathryn Leahy
4 Deck House 5 Woodbridge Hill Hideaway 6 Camping at Mount Field Designed by architect and owner James Hadaway, The ideal spot for a loved-up weekend, WHH is tailored National Park Deck House was created with sustainability and to couples looking for a secluded rural retreat. Perched The oldest national park in Tasmania (it shares the title energy efficiency in mind. Situated high on a hillside on the hills behind the township of Woodbridge, with Freycinet National Park), Mount Field NP is located overlooking the township of Port Huon, the house is the the Hideaway’s cabins have a scenic outlook across just over an hour’s drive from Hobart. If you’re keen to perfect base for a family or group of friends, comfortably D’Entrecasteux Channel to Bruny Island. Best admired see one of Tassie’s most treasured natural wonders, accommodating six people. A central living area with from the bathroom, open up the bi-fold windows, jump check out Russell Falls. The tiered-cascade waterfalls floor-to-ceiling glass opens on to two decks, so in the in the spa and take in the view. delight young and old and are easily accessible by foot warmer weather you can let the outside in. And for the 369 Woodbridge Hill Road, Woodbridge – it’s only a short round trip through the cool temperate cooler months, the house has solar-powered, hydronic www.woodbridgehillhideaway.com.au rainforest. The campsite is located at the entrance to under-floor heating. the park and has full amenities including hot water, 88 Percy Street, Port Huon showers, and BBQ shelters. National park entry www.deckhouse.net.au fees apply. www.parks.tas.gov.au/indeX.aspX?base=1494
With interest in food provenance increasing, Tassie’s growers and producers are throwing their doors open to the public.
Illustration: Eirian Chapman See/Do
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Jonathan Wherrett Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Nick Osborne Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Peter Whyte
7 Tasmanian Cider Trail Huon Valley Region 8 Farm Gate Market 9 The Agrarian Kitchen What better place to start the Tasmanian Cider Trail If you happen to pass through Hobart on a Sunday it’s Rodney Dunn and Séverine Demanet have been running than in the heartland of the state’s apple growing, definitely worth checking out the Farm Gate Market, on culinary experiences from their home in Lachlan for the Huon Valley. First up, we suggest you brief yourself between 9am and 1pm. Here you’ll find fresh, seasonal more than six years. After tree-changing from the hustle on the island’s apple growing history at The Apple produce and artisan food and beverages direct from and bustle of Sydney life to a more relaxed existence in Shed Museum. This is also Willie Smith’s cider tasting makers and growers. Available at the market are cold- the locale of Lachlan, Dunn is committed to educating and retail HQ, so settle in for some serious cider press juices from The Wee Lemon Tree, free-range guests about food provenance and seasonal eating. appreciation and maybe even a snack. Next stop is angus beef from Real Beef, freshly caught seafood from The signature class is the Agrarian Experience, which Pagan Cider on the outskirts of Cygnet. Pagan has George Town Seafoods, bagels from Bury Me Standing shows students how to cook with the freshest of made a name for itself with one-of-a-kind cider options Coffe Co., spray and chemical-free fruit and veg from seasonal ingredients using fruit and veg from the including the Cerise, an apple and cherry cider that Provenance Growers, and Duggans Apple and Pears. The property’s five-acre organic kitchen garden. The packs a punch. Pagan has also been experimenting with market is currently held at the Melville Street car park, experience is designed to help guests reconnect with the fermentation of other fruit blends so keep your eyes but will move to Bathurst Street (between Murray and their food’s origin via the simple pleasure of gathering peeled for some seasonal flavours. Other Huon Valley- Elizabeth Streets) from September 28. produce and cooking it only a stones throw from where based cideries include Red Sails, Two Metre Tall and Melville Street car park, Melville Street, Hobart it was sourced. Frank’s, soon to open in Franklin. www.farmgatemarket.com.au 650 Lachlan Road, Lachlan The Apple Shed Museum & Willie Smith’s Cider House, www.theagrariankitchen.com 2064 Huon Highway, Grove; Pagan Cider, 7891 Channel Highway, Cygnet www.tascidertrail.com Bruny Island – Island off an Island
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Once a well-kept secret among Loved by locals for its stunning beaches, sheltered bays, great surf and fresh food, Bruny Island is home to thousands of beach and bush “shacks” and just 650 full-time Tassie locals, Bruny Island is residents. But with a growing number of artisan food producers moving to the island well and truly in the spotlight and numerous outdoor experiences providing unique ways to see the island, Bruny is now attracting attention from further afield. Just a 15-minute ferry trip from the hamlet thanks to its artisan food and of Kettering across the D’Éntrecasteaux Channel to North Bruny, the island is super beverages, thrilling outdoor accessible, making Bruny perfect for either a day trip or a longer getaway. experiences and spectacular scenery.
BY SARAH CHAPMAN
Eat/Drink/Shop
Photo: Tourism Australia & Graham Freeman Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett Photo: Tourism Tasmania & NIck Osborne
1 Hotel Bruny 2 Bruny Island Premium Wines 3 Bruny Island Smokehouse Like many pubs, Hotel Bruny has a humble and Australia’s southernmost vineyard, Bruny Island & Whisky Bar unassuming exterior. And like other pubs, this is in no Premium Wines is situated on the outskirts of the South Not far from the ferry terminal on North Bruny is the way a reflection of the quality of the pub grub found Bruny settlement, Lunawanna. The two-hectare vineyard Bruny Island Smoke House, a store and cafe jam-packed inside. In addition to pub-food mainstays such as was established by winemaker Bernice Woolley and her with local fare. As its name implies, house-made smoked chicken parma and fillet steak, Hotel Bruny offers dishes husband Richard in 1998, focusing on chardonnay and goods are the specialty here. Think hot smoked salmon not uncommon to the gastro-pubs of inner Melbourne pinot noir varietals. Their cellar door has been running and trout, a variety of dips, chutneys and pastes. If you’re and Sydney. Think lamb shoulder slow-cooked in Moo for more than a decade, but the bar and cafe are relatively staying overnight on Bruny Island, this is the perfect spot Brew Pale Ale and Bruny Island Honey, or a platter new additions. Our pick from the menu is the tasting to pick up locally produced provisions. If you’re after a of locally sourced seafood including oysters, smoked platter. It features locally sourced oysters, hot smoked quick tipple, it also has a large selection of Tasmanian salmon, pickled octopus and squid. The hotel has a great salmon from Bruny Island Smoke House, Bruny Island whiskies. wine list featuring many Tasmanian wines and a good cheese, pork rillette, and possum and wallaby kransky 360 Lennon Road, Bruny Island selection of beers too. from Bruny Island Game Meats. Make sure you wash it www.brunyisland.org.au/food-and-dining/bruny-island- 3959 Main Road, Alonnah down with one of the fine pinots. smokehouse www.hotelbruny.com 4391 Main Road, Lunawanna www.brunyislandwine.com Bruny Island – Island off an Island Stay
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Nick Osborne Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Andrew McIntosh, Ocean Photography
4 The Neck Campsite 5 43 Degrees Eco Apartments 6 Cloudy Corner Campsite Bruny Island is actually two masses of land joined Sustainability and style go hand in hand at 43 Degrees. Located in the South Bruny National Park at the far end of together by an isthmus known as The Neck. And located The architect-designed apartments are warm and light- Cloudy Bay, this campsite is perfect for those who head to at the isthmus is one of a handful of campsites that filled, arc-roofed cabins, bookended by floor-to-ceiling, this part of the world to truly get away from it all. Nestled scatter the island. Set behind the dunes at the southern double-glazed windows. With two separate locations in bushland overlooking the craggy cliffs of East Cloudy end of Bruny’s game reserve, the campsite is just 20 overlooking Adventure Bay, the apartments can cater Head, the campsite is only accessible via foot or a short metres from beautiful Neck Beach. If you’re a fan of to both couples and families. Owners Peter and Ericka 4WD trip along the beach. The campsite is picturesque wildlife (and really, who isn’t), keep your eyes peeled Bowd provide island-style hospitality with freshly baked but basic – there are pit toilets but you need to bring your for the fairy penguins that make a beeline for the beach bread and croissants, hand-delivered to the apartments own drinking water and fire wood. at dusk. each morning. Cloudy Bay, South Bruny Bruny Island Isthmus 948 Adventure Bay Road, Adventure Bay www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=412#so www.43degrees.com.au
See/Do
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Melinda Ta Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Graham Freeman Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Poon Wai Nang
7 Bruny Island Berry Farm 8 Tasmanian Air Adventure 9 Fluted Cape Walk 10 Bruny Island For an afternoon of berry picking, make If you’re on a tight schedule and don’t There are many great walks on Bruny, Long Weekend sure you pop into Bruny Island Berry have a full day to explore Bruny, a great such as the Trugannini lookout and its For a weekend of invigorating outdoor Farm just outside of Adventure Bay. way to see the island is by air. Tasmanian 360-degree views of the whole island experiences and culinary indulgence Choose from strawberries, raspberries, Air Adventures charters two-hour and across to “mainland” Tassie, but set against a breathtaking backdrop, blueberries, blackberries, loganberries seaplane flights every day. Leaving from for spectacular coastal scenery, we BILW ticks all the boxes. Day one of the and boysenberries, which you can pick Hobart, your seaplane will head across recommend this two-and-a-half-hour three-day getaway starts in Hobart with yourself while wandering the farm at Storm Bay before flying down Bruny’s return walk. Starting at Adventure a cruise down the Derwent in the BILW your own pace. When you’re finished, rugged eastern coastline. Highlights Bay, the circuit winds around the cliffs catamaran to South Bruny. You’re then treat yourself to a slice of berry cake or include the view across to The Neck, providing stunning views of Fluted Cape expertly guided to Cape Queen Elizabeth the Berry Farm’s signature dish, berries Adventure Bay and at the southern tip and across to the Tasman Peninsula. and back before heading off to Great Bay in champagne jelly. The farm is closed of Bruny, a small group of islands called If you’re lucky, you might even see a to shuck your own oysters at a local lease. over winter, but opens to the public from The Friars. After flying over Cloudy Bay Southern Right Whale – they migrate The next two days are an opportunity to mid October. Beach and Lagoon, the seaplane then south over the spring months. go hard and relax hard –wilderness and 550 Adventure Bay Road, Bruny Island heads back to Hobart via the western www.parks.tas.gov.au/indeX. wildlife adventure cruises, walks on the www.brunyislandberryfarm.com.au coast, taking in views of Great Taylors aspX?base=1542 rugged South Coast and visits to local Bay, D’Entrecasteaux Channel, North producers including Bruny Island Cheese West Bay and Dennes Point. and Bruny Island Premium Wines. www.tasmanianairadventures.com.au/ At the end of each day you’ll relax at package/bruny-island-tour BILW main camp as your guides whip together a feast from local produce before you retire to your luxury tent complete with king-size bed. At the end of day three, you’ll return to Hobart via Tasmanian Air Adventures’ seaplane. www.brunyislandlongweekend.com.au Bruny Island is home to thousands of beach and bush “shacks” and just 650 full-time residents.
Illustration: Eirian Chapman Launceston & Tamar Valley
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Riverside Launceston, one There’s a happy marriage of heritage stories and contemporary discoveries in Launceston, a city built at the meeting point of three rivers – the Tamar, North Esk and of Australia’s oldest cities, is South Esk – and designed to be explored on foot. “Lonnie”, as it’s affectionately known, utterly, uniquely different is memorable for its stately Georgian and Victorian buildings, perfectly tended parks and gardens, and some of Tasmania’s best epicurean delights. to Hobart, and its dining, It’s also for the adventurous, with the dramatic natural amphitheatre of Cataract drinking and eco-tourism Gorge looming on one side of the city, drawing in daredevils and bushwalkers, before experiences should be on your sending them on their way to the nearby Seaport – a refreshed waterfront dining-and- bar destination. From here, a boardwalk runs along the river to the “arts quarter” of to-do list. Meet an elegant Inveresk, with the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery. grande dame … with a twist. Launceston is also the gateway to the beautiful Tamar Valley, home to some of the island state’s top cool-climate wineries. A day trip down one side of the Tamar, over the BY AMANDA CROMER Batman Bridge and back along the opposite riverside will take you past historic villages, wetlands filled with native birds, bountiful orchards, grazing lands and vineyards – and is easily the best way to sample the region’s award-winning produce.
Eat/Drink/Shop
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Chris Crerar Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Chris Crerar Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Graham Freeman
1 Ciderhouse 2 Black Cow Bistro 3 Boag’s Brewery This slice of cider specialness is hidden right in the heart Some say it’s the best steak in Tassie (we’re talking the So, who is James Boag? A tour of the Boag’s Brewery of the city – you’ll most likely stumble over it thanks to premium stuff from Cape Grim or Robbins Island – dry- will go some way to answering the question. You’ll start the cool crowd that spills on to the footpath outside. aged, free-range, grass-fed and hormone free Tassie where Mr Boag himself did, in 1881, on the banks of the Everything here is Tasmanian, not least the traditional beef), while others rate it because it’s the understated Esk River in Launceston, and finish up with tastings of local cider and perry, made with love by the Dickens place to see and be seen. Whether you’re riding the what the company does with its water. If there’s not family. Board games up the back, BYO food or order in Paleo train or like a spot of Art Deco with your wagyu enough time for a tour, drop in for a beer, bar snacks from the surrounding restaurants. We recommend the (Black Cow is housed in the historic Luck’s Butchery and gourmet produce (including Tassie cheeses) in the house tasting plates. shop), a meal here will leave you elegantly sated. historic Boag’s Centre for Beer Lovers. 63a Brisbane Street, Launceston Don’t forget to book. 39 William Street, Launceston www.dickenscider.com.au 70 George Street, Launceston www.boags.com.au/brewery www.blackcowbistro.com.au Launceston & Tamar Valley
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Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Peppers Seaport Hotel
4 The Hatherley Birrell Collection 5 Peppers Seaport 6 Beauty Point Cottages What happens when a graphic designer and an architect If you’re after location, the Seaport provides it – you’re Decided to make your Tamar Valley day trip an put their heads together? An award-winning (40 and only five minutes’ walk from the CBD and smack-bang overnighter? Old world gardens, a gazebo and views counting) art-hotel experience. An absolute gem for in the middle of one of the newest dining spots in overlooking the majestic Tamar River are just what you lovers of contemporary art, unique heritage and modern Launceston. Perhaps best described as “contemporary need after a hard day’s tour of the Valley wineries. Book architecture, the Hatherley Birrell includes four exotic nautical”, Peppers sits on an old dry dock where the a room in the 1880s homestead, or choose one of the accommodation options set within 1830s mansion, North and South Esk rivers meet to become the Tamar three free-standing cottages in the gardens (in which Hatherley House. Choose from the Magnolia Garden (the early morning rowers are a daily fixture). Be sure to case, we recommend partaking of your Tassie breakfast Pavilion, the Muse Garden Pavilion, the Ballroom, and ask for a room with views over the river and the marina, hamper on your private verandah). Petite Matisse, as well as The Teahouse, an apartment or over the historic city and mountains beyond. 14 Flinders Street, Beauty Point in the CBD with a distinctly Chinoiserie feel, including 28 Seaport Boulevard, Launceston www.beautypointcottages.com.au courtyards and fruit trees. www.peppers.com.au/seaport 43 High Street & 106 Tamar Street, Launceston www.hatherley.com.au
“Lonnie”, as it’s affectionately known, is memorable for its stately Georgian and Victorian buildings, perfectly tended parks and gardens, and some of Tasmania’s best epicurean delights.
Illustration: Eirian Chapman See/Do
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Gina Fynearts Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Phillip Barratt Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Heidi Sze
7 Cataract Gorge 8 Ziplining at Hollybank 9 Mountain biking The enigmatic Gorge, where the South Esk rushes its There’s a rather amusing South Park episode devoted If mountain biking is your gig, you’re spoilt for choice way through craggy black rapids, is only 15 minutes’ to ziplining, and this experience is absolutely nothing around Launceston, with the Ben Lomond Descent walk from the city centre. It’s crossed by the world’s like it. The ultimate adrenalin-junkies’ experience of (the longest mountain bike descent in Tasmania), the longest single-span chairlift, and a suspension bridge, high-wire tree-canopy rides – rushing between “cloud Trevallyn Reserve (the local mountain-bike trails near which hovers above the cascading waters and is linked stations” over the forest floor at heights of up to 30 the city), and the Riverside Trails (which follow the by scenic walking trails on either side of the cliffs – metres – it’s also an amazing way to get close to Tassie’s tracks along the North Esk and Tamar rivers). The new one of the original pathways dates back to the 1890s. pristine wilderness. New to Hollybank – 15 minutes’ Trevallyn trail, set in the hills above the Gorge, is a There’s also a swimming pool, funicular railway, rock- north-east from the Launceston CBD – is night-time stand-out: whether you’re new to MTB or an advanced climbing (850 routes alone in the Gorge), boat cruises, ziplining. Imagine launching off into the darkness, rider with a yearning for tricky technical features, this restaurants, cafes, lookouts and manicured gardens, switching off your headlamp and flying through the true “flow trail” will bring out the two-wheel creativity in which you’ll come across a flock of curious peacocks. serene night-time forest with an illuminated river and in all who traverse it. www.launcestoncataractgorge.com.au the stars above to light your way. www.vertigomtb.com.au/tours/track/trevallyn www.treetopsadventure.com.au Central Highlands
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Home to Tasmania’s most Once upon a time, the Central Highlands was the engine room of Tasmania. It is the birthplace of the state’s hydro-electric scheme – an innovative, renewable-energy spectacular lakes and invention that changed Tasmania’s fortunes and left its permanent mark, through mountains, whisky and fly- disused power stations, dams and the area’s 19th-century built heritage. Fast forward a century, and the World Heritage Highlands is now sought out for the dramatic scenery, fishing, the Highlands was also two national parks and other Wilderness Conservation Areas, hunting and bushwalking, the setting for that mysterious and some of the best trout fishing (and whisky making) in the southern hemisphere. movie, The Hunter. Beautiful and harsh, the Highlands has been shaped by countless resourceful communities – from the area’s indigenous people, through to the pioneering timber
BY AMANDA CROMER harvesters, pastoralists, miners and hydro-electric workers. When Agatha Christie visited in 1922, she was overawed by the area’s mystery and magnitude – and Willem Dafoe, who spent a significant part of his time in the Highlands filming The Hunter, describes it as, “a weird combination of very familiar and totally exotic.”
Eat/Drink/Shop
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Nick Osborne Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Bill Bachman Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Tony Hogg
1 Nant Distilling Company 2 Line-caught smoked trout 3 The Bronte Park Village Store Tassie is the rising star on the world whisky stage, and There’s nothing more rewarding than catching and If it’s pure quirk factor you’re after, this general store has Nant’s liquid gold – Australia’s only Highland Single cooking your own food. Those in the know suggest it in spades. A generous mix of post office meets coffee Malt Whisky, and one with a place in the world’s whisky the Western Lakes regions – the mecca for wilderness shop meets fishing tackle supplier – and the perfect place “bible” – is pretty much the Highlands in a bottle. The trout fishing in Tassie, with roughly 3000 tarns to stock up for your journey – it promises that if it doesn’t whisky is made from 100 per cent Tasmanian barley and lakes between the Great Lake and the Walls have what you’re after, they’ll do their best to get it! and the pristine water that flows from the River Clyde, of Jerusalem, and London Lakes, a private fishery 376 Marlborough Highway, Bronte Park which has its source in a million-year-old glacial in the Bronte region. For a simple smoked trout, www.bronteparkvillage.com.au lake. The distillery is worth a trip, with the historic look no further than the time-honoured smoking process 1820s Nant Estate housing a cellar door, restaurant, documented by the local experts at Camden Fishing. tours and tastings. Don’t leave without trying its www. camdenfishing.com signature Millpond cocktail. 254 Nant Lane, Bothwell www.nant.com.au Central Highlands Stay
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Tarraleah Estate
4 Tarraleah 5 Freshwater Lodges 6 28 Gates Once housing the hydro-electric workers, the village of If you can picture yourself curling up in front of a log Just one hour’s drive west of Hobart is 28 Gates, Tarraleah has been transformed into a destination for fire, wine in hand as you gaze out onto breathtaking a boutique luxury hideaway in the leafy and meandering some of the best accommodation in Tasmania, right in bush settings, Freshwater is the place for you. Derwent Valley. Once the shearers’ quarters, this B&B the heart of the Highlands. If you’re feeling cashed up, These contemporary Highland lodges are self-contained is embedded in the grounds of historic Bloomfield – all luxuriate at the celebrity favourite, The Lodge (standout (all you need to take is your food and fishing rods) and 5000 acres of it – a sixth-generation grazing property features include its liquor “cabinet” which contains have all the cosy comforts you need in the mountains: that dates back to 1862 and still operating as a working more than 200 malts, said to be the largest collection pot-belly-stove fire, electric blankets and floor heating. farm today. Bird-watchers and trout-fishers are drawn in the Southern Hemisphere, and its cliff-top hot-tub). Freshwater is perfect if you want to try your hand at trout here for obvious reasons – but 28 Gates is also notable History lovers will revel in a stay in The Cottages, a set fishing in the nearby lakes and rivers, and then bring for its sumptuous breakfast provisions, the free-standing of beautifully restored Art-Deco dwellings, and those on back your catch for alfresco dining on the deck under the bath that looks out to the starry country sky, and its a shoestring should try the Scholars House or the nearby huge skies. proximity to the Gretna Green Pub. Highland Caravan Park. Tarraleah also offers a much- 24 Berry Drive & 27 Jones Road, Miena 662 Marked Tree Road, Gretna, Tasmania loved cafe with homemade goodies and local produce for www.freshwaterlodges.com.au www.28gates.com.au sale, and good grub at The Highlander – a proper Central Highlands pub. www.tarraleah.com.au
See/Do
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Greg Willson
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Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Richard de Chazel It might be hard to believe, but it’s not all about fishing Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Ray Joyce up in the Highlands – and as evidence, we offer you Bothwell’s Ratho Farm, which boasts the old-school 7 The Highland lakes Ratho Links, the oldest known course outside of 9 Steppes Historic Site and Sculptures For many, the lakes are the reason to visit the Highlands. Scotland. Why the connection, you ask? In 1822 Bothwell The Steppes site, north-west of Bothwell, was once a Majestic, mysterious and seemingly never ending, it’s was settled by some particularly intrepid Scottish gathering point for the Central Highlands community, pretty hard to avoid them, whichever road you take. pioneers. As well as other aspects of their proud culture, and a perfect description of what life on the land was The cold, clear waters are a magnet for amateur and which they deftly integrated into the local community, like. Now, it’s a reserve, which not only protects the professional fly-fishers from across the world, and the they brought the hallowed game of golf with them. site’s historic homestead, but also ensures that stories Tasmanian contingent is friendly, un-competitive and 2122 Highland Lakes Road, Bothwell about that way of life continue to be told. The reserve always willing to help out a visitor (make sure you check www.rathogolf.com can be accessed at any time, so take a picnic, and make out the official websites to cover off your requirements). sure you check out the Steppes Stones, a gift of the late, If standing beside a lake waiting for a bite isn’t your revered Tasmanian sculptor, Stephen Walker. The works thing, there’s always experiencing the Highlands lifestyle depict the wildlife and lifestyle of the Highlands and are, from on the water; the tip here is the “secret kayaking” “dedicated to those who share in the love and care of the that’s on offer from Tarraleah. Escorted by professional Highlands of Tasmania, from the past to the future.” guides, you’ll be taken for a gentle paddle on placid Highland Lakes Road (A5), lakes: the perfect vantage point from which to snap the 35kms northwest of Bothwell outstanding scenery and native wildlife. www.troutguidestasmania.com.au www.ifs.tas.gov.au
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Geoff Murray
11 The Tasmanian Trail Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Brian Dullaghan Although this trail technically winds its way across the whole of Tassie – from Devonport in the north to Dover 12 The Wall In The Wilderness Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Travis Tiddy in the south, which makes it the only long-distance trail on the island – it really comes into its own in the One man’s mission to carve the Highlands’ epic story Highlands. Designed to offer something for all outdoorsy into wooden panels has become a monument to the 10 Waddamana Power Station types (mountain bikers, horse riders, bush walkers) as artist’s process and traditional craft. Greg Duncan has Waddamana is the geographic epicentre of Tasmania, well as cultural and natural heritage buffs, the Highlands been working for years on The Wall, a three-metre-high and it’s also home to the state’s first hydro-power station section begins on the Central Plateau beyond the Great work-in-progress at Derwent Bridge. Inspired by the – now a museum displaying the original machinery and Western Tiers and winds its way through valleys, across Highlands’ people, past and present, The Wall is a tribute equipment, the pipelines and artefacts from the village farmlands and past old towns. Take your time, and tackle to those who’ve crafted the region’s history and, when that provide a little window into a world of early 1900s as much or a little of the trail as you like. Don’t forget to completed, the sculpture will be an awe-inspiring 100 Tasmania. grab the official guidebook. metres long. www.hydro.com.au/community/waddamana-museum www.tasmaniantrail.com.au www.thewalltasmania.com North West
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B23 7 LAUNCESTON
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A10 10 B27 B11 B24 6 9 A5
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Tasmania’s expansive North The North West is a big place, with truly varied landscapes and communities. For this reason alone, it’s one of the most rewarding places to visit on the island. West will take you on a wild For nature and ocean lovers, it’s a paradise traced by a string of beachside villages on ride through rugged World the windswept North coast, right up to Stanley’s famed Nut on the tip. This area also Heritage areas and along reveals some of the best gastronomic experiences and cultural heritage discoveries. soaring coastlines. But it’s also Head away from the coast, across lush Kentish pastures and rolling hills, deeper into the island, and you’ll enter the ancient rainforests, dark lakes and towering mountains tempered and tamed by quaint of the Tarkine region – designed for rejuvenation and exploration. towns, award-winning artisan For a taste of the true “wild”, head back over to the west coast and anchor yourself at produce and windswept sandy lovely Strahan, on the edge of majestic Macquarie Harbour and the Wilderness World Heritage Area. Convict and mining history comes alive here, from tragic Sarah Island beaches. to Queenstown (home to the annual Heritage & Arts Festival). And surfers are quickly drawn to Trial Harbour. BY AMANDA CROMER Strap yourself in, because we’ll be covering a lot of ground. Eat/Drink/Shop
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Heidi Sze Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Phillip Barratt Photo: Tourism Tasmania, Ginette & Remi Bancal
1 Farmers’ Markets 2 Providore 24 3 Glencoe Rural Retreat Foraging for your own provisions is easy here. The rich, If you’re in Stanley, take time out to peruse this store If you’ve headed inland to the beauty of Lake Barrington, red earth of the North West grows some of Australia’s that sits right at the base of the Nut. The shop’s shelves Mount Roland, Cradle Mountain and surrounds, a meal at best produce, which is why you should time your visit are heaving with local wines, cheeses, organic Miellerie Glencoe is an insider secret. Operating as a pretty B&B, for the local farm shops and farmers’ markets. Burnie honey, and the best bread in the area. If you’re feeling the nightly, three-course dinner is worth the trip in itself. Farmers’ Market operates on the first and third Saturday lazy after your journey and want lunch or dinner done for French couple Ginette and Remi Bancal source most of of the month (head here for the famed Mt Gnonom Farm you, ring ahead to organise a hamper, stocked with 100 the produce from their garden and local suppliers for products), and the Devonport Farmers’ Market on the per cent Tassie produce. their delicious dishes. The wine list is also something second and fourth. Local producers also have stalls at 24 Church Street, Stanley special (Remi was sommelier at Sydney’s Banc, and other markets, such as those at Penguin and Latrobe. www.providore24.com.au Mietta’s in Melbourne). www.discovernorthwesttasmania.com.au/ 1468 Sheffield Road, Barrington farmersmarkets.html glencoeruralretreat.com.au North West
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Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Sean Fennessy Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Kathryn Leahy Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Kraig Carlstrom
4 The Madsen Boutique Hotel 5 @VDL Stanley 6 Wheelhouse Apartments This waterfront hotel at Penguin has a minimalist, A mere 20 metres from the water’s edge, this is a place The dramatic beauty of the West Coast is literally in beachy style, set within an elegant old building. you won’t forget. The striking, convict-built bluestone your face at the Wheelhouse, with the sweeping views of With six rooms to choose from (including a penthouse), warehouse has been transformed into a graceful hotel Strahan and wild Macquarie Harbour filling your living the spacious beachfront and waterfront suites – both of by its owners where there are only three luxury suites area. Built on the edge of the oldest-living rainforest on which overlook the beach and Bass Strait – are our picks. to choose from. Personal touches are everywhere, and Earth, these two self-contained luxury apartments are the As is the nearby Wild restaurant. It’s about halfway the attention to detail – such as Tasmanian artworks – perfect base from which to take in this World Heritage- between Burnie and Devonport, so it’s ideal if you’re is clearly the work of someone with a talent for design. listed site. The eco-design features are a nice reflection of following the Tasting Trail and winding your way along There’s also a sister property, @The Base. the pristine surrounds. the coast to Stanley. 16 Wharf Road, Stanley 4 Frazer Street, Strahan 64 Main Road, Penguin www.atvdlstanley.com.au www.wheelhouseapartments.com.au www.themadsen.com (If you’re staying in Stanley, the waterfront hideaway of Beachside Retreat is another blissful option: www.beachsideretreat.com)
The North West is a big place, with truly varied landscapes and communities. For this reason alone, it’s one of the most rewarding places to visit on the island.
Illustration: Eirian Chapman See/Do
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Graham Freeman Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Alice Hansen Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Scott Sporleder, Matador Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett
7 Cradle to Coast 8 Tarkine Trails 9 Gordon River Cruise 10 The West Coast Tasting Trail One of “the great walks of Tasmania”, There’s a melancholy behind the beauty Wilderness Railway This interactive trail will help you these bespoke Tarkine bushwalks will of Strahan and its surrounds – which Recently reopened to the public, this discover the North West’s bounties take you on foot through this globally harks back to the days when Sarah Island iconic old steam train winds its way at your own pace, to suit your taste important environment. Discover raw was a harsh penal colony, and there was between Strahan and Queenstown and – whether you’re into fresh berries, archaeological sites, dramatic coastal no escaping the notorious Hell’s Gates back, across tree canopies, through just-caught seafood, home-grown vistas, Aboriginal heritage, ancient and the treacherous Southern Ocean. emerald rainforest and past old stations. vegies, wines and whiskies or cheese rainforests, pristine rivers, waterfalls, A cruise on the still, amber waters of It’s also the best way to learn about and chocolate. On your must-do list: lookouts and wild rivers. The tent-based the Gordon River – which departs from the region’s history and culture and Ashgrove Cheese, 41 Degrees South walks are suited for both seasoned Strahan – is an unforgettable way to immerse yourself in the unique West Salmon & Ginseng Farm, Christmas bushwalkers and for those wanting a explore the area’s history, while soaking Coast wilderness. Go Wilderness Class Hills Raspberry Farm, Ghost Rock more supported experience. in the lush scenery. Included is an for a balcony carriage, wine, morning and Vineyard, Hellyers Road Distillery, www.tarkinetrails.com.au elevated rainforest walk, lunch, and a afternoon teas and lunch. House of Anvers. Use the maps, follow walk among the ruins of Sarah Island www.wcwr.com.au the itineraries, or book a tour with a www.gordonrivercruises.com.au local guide. www.cradletocoasttastingtrail.com.au East Coast – Freycinet to Bay of Fires
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BAY OF FIRES B84
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The northern Tasmanian The north-east coast is a favourite holiday destination for Tasmanians. Beach houses and shacks are scattered along the coastline from the seaside town of Bicheno all the coastal playground, this region way to The Gardens at the Bay of Fires, and the population of resort-town St Helens is the home of one of the world’s swells each summer as locals make their pilgrimage to the Tasmanian version of Lorne or Apollo Bay. most beautiful beaches, the The north-east is also responsible for some of Australia’s best seafood – oysters are Bay of Fires, and the freshest cultivated in the waters off Georges Bay, and king crabs, crayfish and scallops are seafood in the state. caught along the coastline. In addition to the coastal and waterfront areas, there is also much to see and do in BY SARAH CHAPMAN the hinterland. The region is home to the Mt William National Park and a number of State Reserves. With the temperature usually a few degrees warmer than neighbouring Freycinet, make a beeline to the north-east coast. Eat/Drink/Shop
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Pyengana Dairy Company Photo: Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett
1 Pyengana Dairy Company 8 Mohr & Smith 9 Blue Shed Run by the Healey family for four generations, this Mohr & Smith is the spot in St Helens for a big breakfast. Blue Shed’s location is pretty sweet – the restaurant award-winning dairy is located in the lush Pyengana Open just eight months, the cafe and restaurant is literally hangs over the water at St. Helens Wharf, where Valley a couple of hours drive from Launceston and half already a big hit with locals – there was a constant friendly seals have been known to make the occasional an hour from the coastal town of St Helens. Pyengana stream to the espresso machine the morning we called appearance. While we weren’t lucky enough to get cheddar is on cheeseboards at many of Australia’s in. The space is large and airy – it has a main dining area a peek at the local sea life, we did enjoy gazing out the top fine-dining restaurants, but here is available only as well as a lounge nook with comfy-looking couches floor-to-ceiling windows and across the wharf as we metres from where it is made. Have a cheese tasting and armchairs – and is open all day. sampled the menu. Blue Shed is mod Oz with a leaning then pop outside to sit on the hill that overlooks the 55/59 Cecilia Street, St Helens towards seafood – more than understandable when the dairy and watch the cows wander in to be milked. With fishing punts that trawl the east coast for blue eye, cray all that clean, fresh air the tummy rumbles are likely and scallops are docked just metres away. The Bass Strait to hit, so take a seat in the Holy Cow Café. We were squid with benito mayo is the signature dish at Blue Shed impressed by the mega-sized ploughman’s lunch which and definitely worth a try. The plumpest oysters we’ve features a huge chunk of cheddar as well as smoked eaten in some time were sourced at the local Lease 54 ham, house-pickled olives and onions and house-made oyster farm, and the restaurant also has a good wine list bread. To finish off, try one of the Iced Specials made that features varietals from within the region. with Pyengana’s “Real Milk”. Marina Parade, St Helens St Columba Falls Road, Pyengana www.blueshedrestaurant.com.au www. pyenganadairy.com.au East Coast – Freycinet to Bay of Fires
Eat/Drink/Shop Stay
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Maki Kawakita Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Andrew McIntosh, Ocean Photography Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Robbie McGregor
10 Moresco Restaurant 4 Camping at Cosy Corner and 5 Arthouse Bay of Fires Swimcart Beach Open just a few months now, Moresco is situated in Located at the northern end of Binalong Bay, this a perfect position overlooking the Bay of Fires. We’re If the idea of waking up to roaring surf and the sight self-contained beach house is right on the sand and certain you’ll be enchanted by the sweeping views across of one of the country’s most magnificent bays sounds surf. The expansive architect-designed home is light Binalong Bay beach and over to Mt William National good, then why not pitch a tent at one of the Bay of Fires and airy thanks to high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling Park. This vista is the perfect backdrop to what, in our two main campsites. Located in the conservation area, windows. Filled with original art and bespoke furniture, experience, is the best food on the north-east coast. the campsites have toilets but no running water – so the beach house feels like a luxurious home away from Owned and run by chef Matt Stone, dishes are modern remember to bring your own. It might be basic, but when home. It also has internet access, TV and DVD player, an Oz cuisine with a Mediterranean influence. Prior to the campsites are a) free and b) in such an incredible part iDock and a small library of books and magazines. With opening Moresco, Stone honed his skills working at a of the world – really, who’s complaining? two double bedrooms, it’s the perfect getaway for two variety of establishments in Italy. These skills shine Binalong Bay Road, Bay of Fires couples or, as they say on the Arthouse website, four very through in Stone’s dishes. We loved the Macquarie www.parks.tas.gov.au/file.aspx?id=6390 friendly friends! Harbour Ocean Trout with purple bliss potatoes, chevre, 61 Lyall Road, Binalong Bay sugar snaps and lemon gel. The wine list is a concise www.arthousebayoffires.com.au little collection that features some of Tassie’s best drops. Moresco is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. 64 Main Road, Binalong Bay www.morescorestaurant.com.au The north-east coast is a favourite holiday destination for Tasmanians. Beach houses and shacks are scattered along the coastline from the seaside town of Bicheno all the way to The Gardens at the Bay of Fires.
Illustration: Eirian Chapman See/Do
Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Peter Bellingham Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Alice Hansen Photo: Tourism Tasmania & Andrew McIntosh, Ocean Photography
7 Beer Tasting at Ironhouse Brewery 8 Bay of Fires Lodge Walk 9 St Columba Falls Situated on the Tasman Highway between Bicheno One of Australia’s original “glamping” experiences, the Located just 20 minutes up the road from the Pyengana and St Helens is the Ironhouse Brewery and BrewHaus Bay of Fires Lodge Walk has been attracting visitors to Dairy Company in the St Columba Falls State Reserve, Cafe & Bar. Established in 2007, the brewery and cafe Tasmania for years. This four-day walk is regarded as the 90-metre high St Columba Falls is definitely worth is located on the site of the White Sands resort at one of the top luxe walking trips in Australia and has a visit. Just a 10-minute stroll from the reserve car park, Ironhouse Point. Owned and developed by Michael won several tourism awards. In addition to the guided wind your way through temperate rainforest, past giant Briggs, the Brewery is the perfect pit stop when driving walks through the pristine Bay of Fires and Mt William man ferns before arriving. While slightly off the beaten along the coast, particularly for beer enthusiasts. The National Park, the Lodge Walk features award-winning track, we highly recommend a visit to this beautiful and brewery has four main beers on offer as well as seasonal accommodation that is exclusive to walking guests – unique wilderness area. varieties only available at the brewery. In addition to the Forester Beach Camp and the Bay of Fires Lodge. St. Columba Falls Road, Pyengana offering regular beer tasting, there is a food-matching And now with the recent addition of an eco-spa next to www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=1409 option that provides culinary morsels to accompany the the Bay of Fires Lodge, guests are able to soak away the Ironhouse wheat beer, lager, pale ale, and porter. day before dining on freshly prepared dishes, drinking 21554 Tasman Highway, Ironhouse Point fine Tassie wines and beers, and then retiring to the www.white-sands.com.au/brewhaus-cafe luxurious sleeping quarters. www.bayoffires.com.au