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The

Riverand the

Road

The compelling story of the , US 34, and human resilience in the face of tragedy

Published by the Department of Transportation Big Thompson River Waterbody Big Thompson US Highway/ Community Interstate Historical River & Road Other Road Other River/Creek Features City/Town

N O M R I T H L B L L

F E A O R NORTH R C F O K B K U B R C

I K C E C G D

F K A K R T O C K H

E D X H R E

RT H O R C O O F R

R N N Y O O N

E M S E K P R K K C B C E R E I G R E R

Glen T E E E C

H K Haven O M K N P S O N Horseshoe I A W D S O Curve N E S T K 43 P N I C R E E M Drake C Y O 43 O N N A H E R T V Stony The Waltonia I River Lodge The Dam R Store LOVELAND G Narrows Cedar 34 To 34 N Cove Colorado Rocky Loveland I S O Cherry Mountain M P Company National Heights T H O Cottages B Park G C I O B T T O N Glen W O K Comfort Pole E 34 O E Hill D R S C Whispering OL

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K 021.25 .5 57.5 10 Miles The Big Thompson River and US 34, Larimer , Colorado The

Riverand the Road

This book is dedicated to the people who lost their lives in the Big Thompson Canyon floods of 1976 and 2013, and to Scott Ellis, late CDOT Region 4 Resident Engineer and first 2013 post-flood Project Manager.

Created by

for the

October 2019 ii — The River and the Road

Project Lead Colorado Department of Transportation Jason Marmor

Historical Research & Writing Jacobs Engineering Group Patricia Steinholtz

Historical Research and Contributors Centennial Archaeology Kristin A. Gensmer Eva M. Garner

Document & Graphic Design Jacobs Engineering Group Patricia Steinholtz

Proofreading Jacobs Engineering Group Misty Swan

Printing Steuben Press, Longmont, CO

Published by the Colorado Department of Transportation 2019 Front Cover Image: Colorado Department of Transportation, 2013 flood Back Cover Image: Colorado State University, 1976 flood The River and the Road — iii Table of Contents

Foreword v Introduction vii Chapter 1: The River 1-1 Chapter 2: The Road 2-1 Chapter 3: The 1976 Flood 3-1 Chapter 4: The 2013 Flood 4-1 Chapter 5: The Future 5-1

Image source: CDOT iv — The River and the Road The River and the Road – v

Foreword This is the story of the enduring struggle to forge and maintain a transportation connection through the Big Thompson Canyon to Estes Park. Constructed more than 100 years ago, the first road established Image source: CDOT that connection and paved the way for recreation and settlement in the canyon. Since then, major flooding of the Big Thompson River has claimed lives and caused catastrophic damage to property, infrastructure, and natural habitats. Throughout both the 1976 and 2013 floods, the human spirit was tested, but not broken. Meet the people who barely survived these disasters, those who tragically did not, as well as those who tended to the injured, picked up the pieces, and did the seemingly impossible. As a member of the Colorado Department of Transportation team who Johnny Olson has been part of this story, I encourage you to learn more about the river, the road, CDOT Deputy Director and most importantly, the power of human persistence. June 28, 2019

Image source: CDOT and the Road and River River vi — The Foreword The River and the Road – vii Introduction This is the story of

the Big Thompson River, its namesake canyon, and Highway (US) 34

...which hugs the river’s Despite its alluring natural meandering curves. beauty, the Big Thompson It is the story of the river River, which is confined by and the road. high walls of the surrounding canyon, is prone to dramatic

Image source: CDOT flood events.

This story speaks of awe-inspiring plains, each influencing the other ever the first natural beauty, human determination, since travelers began venturing through mountain exceptional feats of engineering, and the canyon. range west of the . The tragically, staggering devastation and precipitous roads from the flatlands to poignant acts of heroism — all of which Lauded as “the very gem of beauty,”1 Estes Park presented a multi-day trial coalesce around one thing — the Big the high alpine valley that would become even for those who came prepared.2 Thompson River. The river and the the Town of Estes Park lured explorers road are inextricably bound together, and travelers from afar. However, The Big Thompson Canyon beckoned. journeying side-by-side from lofty visitors faced a formidable obstacle The river had already cleaved a twisted mountain valleys to expansive, sweeping upon reaching Colorado’s , path through a high-walled chasm

6

5 communities sprang communities sprang up, some of which remain in the Big Thompson Canyon today. Yet few people knew the canyon held proclaimed a journalist in 1920. a journalist proclaimed 4 “No motorist can really claim to have claim to have can really “No motorist at its zenith who scenery seen Colorado Thompson canon driven the Big has not [sic],” The canyon’s natural beauty also lured The canyon’s natural down roots along the settlers to put built summer river’s banks. People residences, cabins and permanent businesses catering to and established number of visitors an ever-increasing Small residential and recreationists. The beckoning beauty of the river and The beckoning beauty of the peril — canyon belied their potential prepared flash floods. A 1971 study by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers determined that the Big Thompson River flooded an average of once every six a devastating secret only those keen a devastating secret only those to its clues could decipher. Stranded high trees lodged uncharacteristically incised above the stream bank, deeply feet canyon walls soaring up to 3,000 turns high, and sharply curving hairpin attest to millennia of violent scouring. The canyon’s natural beauty canyon’s The lured settlers to put down banks. roots along the river’s

3 proved it could be done — barely. Despite the road’s precarious condition, Despite the road’s precarious years of its use exploded, and with it, challenging upgrades and modifications. just the Word soon spread that it wasn’t destination, but the journey through Big Thompson Canyon that made the drive to Estes Park so extraordinary. and the Road and River River

Image source: P. Steinholtz Image source: P.

— The

Thompson Canyon that made the drive to Estes Park so extraordinary. so extraordinary. the drive to Estes Park Thompson Canyon that made It wasn’t just the destination, but the journey through the Big just the destination, It wasn’t viii Steinholtz P. of Collection source: Image Introduction Estes between the mountain town of situated Park and the City of Loveland, prominently at the river’s mouth So approximately 20 miles downstream. river’s why not build a road along the the edge? In 1903, construction of “rough and bad” Riley’s Road through the canyon (the precursor to US 34) damages. and causedmorethan$35millionin demolished theBigThompsonSiphon, houses, washedawaymuchofUS34, and 52businesses,damaged138 injured 250more,destroyed418houses recorded floodhadkilled144peopleand it wasfinished,Colorado’sdeadliest to a20-footwallofwater.Bythetime from anaveragedepthof18inches just overonehour.Theriverexploded unleashed ayear’sworthofrainin birthday. Toweringthunderheads people celebratedthestate’s100-year alive withactivity,asthousandsof in Coloradohistory.Thecanyonwas most catastrophicnaturaldisasters Canyon wasthesiteofone On July31,1976,theBigThompson would sooncome. just aprecursorofthedevastationthat “essentially thesamelocation,” result, theroadwasreconstructedin occur againforseveral hundredyears.” flood “afreakeventwhich wouldnot rebuild theirlives.They consideredthe residents returnedto the canyonto precisely whereithadbeen. People wantedUS34tobereplaced people in1951. years, theworstofwhichkilledseven 8 7 Butthesefloodswere 9 Asa 10 and 11 make theroadmoreresilient tofuture The permanentrepairs weredesignedto for construction. seasonal closures 2018, aftertwo US 34onMay24, officially reopening later, withCDOT were undertaken Permanent repairs in November2013. reopening US34 mobilized foremergencyrepairs, of Transportation(CDOT)immediately lived inBigThompsonCanyon. the state,includingtwowomenwho people diedinthe2013floodthroughout worth ofprecipitationyetagain. dropped theequivalentofoneyear’s time, “biblical”record-breakingrainfall end untilsixdayslater.Duringthat that beganSeptember9,2013,didn’t storm wasoverwithinhours,therain particularly hard.Whilethe1976 once againhittingtheBigThompson Range inSeptember2013, Colorado’s northernFront devastating floodstruck Yet just37yearslater,a of US34. significantly damagednearlyninemiles The 2013floodcompletelywashedoutor 14 TheColoradoDepartment catastrophic naturaldisasters. site ofonethestate’s most with activity,soontobecomethe Thompson Canyon wasalive On July 31,1976,theBig 13 12

Ten Towering thunderheadsinJuly1976 Image source:DenverPost unleashed a year’s worthofrain. unleashed ayear’s The River and theRoad —ix Introduction This Permanent repairs in 2013 Permanent were designed to make the road more resilient to future storm events, allowing it to coexist with the river. accommodate future disasters. The accommodate future disasters. to teach, stories of the past have much and adapt inspiring us to come together to an increasingly uncertain future. is the story of the river and the road. Image source: CDOT And so the story continues: The And so the story continues: The river and the road, each changing river in response to the other — the so inclined. claiming its share when it is planners, Communities, governments, of the and engineers, now more aware devastation nature can inflict, have learned to reimagine designs to better

15 and the Road and River River

Image source: CDOT storm events by reimagining how it storm events by reimagining could coexist with the river, sometimes notably, through radical means. Most the road’s engineers decided to abandon edge historic path along the outside river, of a tight horseshoe bend in the instead cutting bridges into the hillside and substantially flattening the curve.

dropped the equivalent of one year’sdropped the equivalent of worth of precipitation. In September 2013, “biblical” record-breaking rainfall record-breaking rainfall In September 2013, “biblical” x — The Introduction 15 14 13 12 11 10 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Endnotes 9

Cusick, Daniel.2018.ColoradoChartsaNewP CDO USD Duggan, K Simons, D Simons, D McComb, DavidG NASA U Jacobs. 2014.HydrologicEvaluationoftheBigThompsonW Carrillo, RichardF Cheney Sprague. 1922.TheEstesandR P Carothers, JuneE use/2014-03.pdf; Henson,Bob.2016.TheBigThompsonDisaster:Reverberations ofaFlashFlood,40Years Later. Weather Underground.July29.https://maps.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/comment.html?entrynum=3369. Disaster. Vestige Press, FortCollins,CO. Colorado, p.89,https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. Larson-Tibesar Associates,Inc.,Laramie,Wyoming, andCentennialArchaeology, Inc.,FortCollins,Colorado. blogs.denverpost.com/library/files/2012/07/bigThompsonGraphic.jpg. Thompson Flood.Coloradoan.https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2016/07/29/big-thompson-flood-killed-scores/87524858/; NCARClimateandWeather ImpactAssessmentScienceProgram. 2007;Watt, JoeandThomasMcKay. n.d.Adeadlydownpour. http:// McComb,DavidG.noaa.gov/article/ArtMID/587/ArticleID/367/A-deadly-flood-that-helped-improve-weather-forecasting; 1996.BigThompson:Profile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Pohl, Press, FortCollins,CO; Jason.2016.40yearslater:ScoreskilledinBig Marmaduke, Jacey. 2016.Remembrance, preparedness40years afterflood.Coloradoan.www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2016/07/29/remembrance...40.../87741772/; 2016.ADeadlyFloodThatHelpedImproveWeather NOAA. Forecasting. July29.https://research. ickering, JamesH.2005.America’s Switzerland:EstesPark andRocky MountainNationalPark, theGrowthYears. https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt46ns17. .S. ArmyCorpsofEngineers.1971.FloodPlainInformation, BigThompsonRiver, LovelandColorado.OmahaDistrict.December. https://usace.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/2332/;McComb,DavidG. 1996.BigThompson:Profile ofaNatural T. 2016.US34Project Update.April.https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1/april-2016-public-meeting-materials/presentation-us-34-april-public-meetings.pdf. A ForestService.2014.OurRelationship withaDynamicLandscape:Understandingthe2013NorthernColoradoFlood.ScienceYou CanUseBulletin.Issue10.March/April2014.https://www.fs.fed.us/rm/science-application-integration/docs/science-you-can- . n.d.BigThompsonCanyon,Colorado.https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/images/43825/big-thompson-canyon-colorado; NOAANews.n.d.ColoradoRemembers BigThompsonCanyonFlashFloodof1976.http://www.noaanews.noaa.gov/stories/s688.htm; , Ann.1920.DenverWoman Writer EnthusesoverCanonRoad. TheLovelandReporter. 1March:1. .B., J.D. Reiter, Nelson,E.R. Barkau. 1978.Floodof31July1976inBigThompsonCanyon,Colorado. ColoradoStateUniversity, andR.L. FortCollins,CO. .B., J.D. Reiter, Nelson,E.R. Barkau. 1978.Floodof31July1976inBigThompsonCanyon,Colorado. ColoradoStateUniversity, andR.L. FortCollins,CO. evin. 2014.Recovering afterRiversRage. TheColoradoan.September9.https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/local/2014/09/05/september-flood-anniversary-colorado/15151647/. . 1951.EstesPark: Past andPresent. TheUniversityofDenverPress. . 1996.BigThompson:Profile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Press, FortCollins,CO. . 1990.HistoricalArchaeologyResearch Design.In,AnIntroductiontotheArchaeologyofPinon Canyon,SoutheasternColorado(6volumes),editedbyW. Andrefsky, Jr. Report submittedtoNationalPark MountainRegional Service-Rocky Office,by ocky MountainNationalParks: AnHistoricalReminiscence. Roads andTrails. EstesPark Trail 15December:3. ath Away fromFloodwaters.ScientificAmerican.https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/colorado-charts-a-new-path-away-from-floodwaters/. atershed Post September2013FloodEvent;USGeologicalSurvey, 1979,StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,intheBigThompsonRiverCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties, The River and theRoad —xi Introduction and the Road and River River The xii — Introduction The River and the Road – 1-1 The River

The Big Thompson River and US 34 inextricably wind together...

forming a twisting path eastward The Big Thompson River from the mountain town of and its namesake canyon, Estes Park to the flatland City of Loveland, the river resolutely with its beckoning shores cleaving a path of least resistance and “sky-scraping granite to which the road clings. walls,” are both alluring Image source: P. Steinholtz and deadly.

Gathering momentum and volume from its namesake canyon, which the water raptors to the precipitation and tributaries, the river has been carving since the Front Range water’s bounty. courses downward, pushing through rose 70 million years ago,1 that makes Water-adapted plants thrive along its cracks and folds in ancient bedrock. the canyon both alluring and deadly. wider banks, and evergreens cloak This relentless process of incision and Here, “nature has carved one of its most the hillsides. A variety of wildlife, from deposition has shaped a distinctive beautiful works of art” — a “must-see,” tassel-eared squirrels to bighorn sheep, landscape in Colorado’s Front Range “awe-inspiring” chasm comprised of find food and shelter among the trees. Mountains known as the Big Thompson “sky-scraping granite walls.”2 The river The scent of earth and pines infuse the Canyon. It is the Big Thompson River’s teems with life, from tiny midges to crisp air, which roils with thunderstorms tumultuous 20-mile journey through silvery trout, which draws mammals and in late summer afternoons. – 30 Image source: P. Steinholtz Image source: P. 32 diverts water from the western side of Water Diversion Project Water 31 Colorado-Big Thompson The Colorado-Big Thompson Water Diversion project The Colorado-Big Water Thompson projects – “one of the most ambitious water diversion by the federal government”ever undertaken the Continental Divide through a 13-mile tunnel the Continental Divide through a 13-mile tunnel to Colorado’s Mountain National Park beneath Rocky is northeastern slope and plains. The diverted water Estes, from which it is released not only stored in Lake but the Olympus Tunnel. into the Big Thompson River, from The tunnel travels east and slightly south away transferring water into a pipe that becomes the river, conspicuously visible as the Big Thompson Siphon, 34 at the which crosses the Big Thompson River and US eastern end of the canyon. greatly modified the natural hydrology of the Big greatly modified the natural hydrology of the between 1938 and Constructed Thompson River. 1948, the “largest trans-mountain diversion project ever built” 6

33 Excess 5 whose undulating walls undulating whose 7 primarily for power generation as part of the Colorado-Big Thompson Water Diversion project. June 9, 1864 river spreads one mile wide at Loveland First documented flood in Big Thompson Canyon; Because the water level must be kept Because the water level must lake’s high for power production, the not “modest reservoir capacity was designed for flood control.” floodwaters are stored or diverted floodwaters are stored or diverted through the Olympus Tunnel. From Lake Estes, the Big Thompson From Lake Estes, the Big Thompson Big River plunges downstream through seam in Thompson Canyon, “a natural mountains,” the Snowfall in Rocky Mountain Rocky Snowfall in melts each Park National summer, with much of the easterly flows forming the River. Big Thompson Constructed in 1948, 4 and the Road and

River River

3 The Big Thompson River’s are lofty and cold. headwaters The 1-2 — the dam forms Lake Estes, designed the dam forms Lake Estes, designed Flowing through the Town of Estes Flowing through the Town of by Fall Park, the Big Thompson is joined Canyon River, Fish Creek, and Black by the Creek before being impounded Olympus Dam. Like most Colorado most Colorado Like Big rivers, the Thompson’s are lofty headwaters High within and cold. the peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park — approximately sea 11,000 feet above The level — snow blankets the Continental Divide every winter and spring. As rising summer temperatures release this accumulation, the fresh waters tumble west to the Pacific Ocean or east to the Atlantic in creeks Riverand streams that ultimately coalesce into rivers. Much form of the eastward flows eventually reaches the Big Thompson River, which and peak levels in the months of May June. high as3,000feetaboveriverlevel. 40 to80percentandjaggedridgesas from theriver’sedge,withslopesof Canyon wallsfrequentlyrisedirectly where thelandscapeabruptlyflattens. as fareasttheCityofLoveland, conform totheriver’smeandersalmost mid-point betweenLakeEstesand community ofDrake,theapproximate fill ofboulders.Headingeastfromthe the waterrollsacrossanear-continuous cascades, riffles,andplungepoolsas average of105feetpermilethrough in justunder20miles,droppingan River descendsmorethan2,100feet Within thecanyon,BigThompson Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity 8

Drake fromthenorthbyNorthFork The BigThompsonRiverisjoinednear channel’s naturalcurves. energy dissipationprovidedbythe gives risetorapidflowsdespitethe descent oftheBigThompsonCanyon the canyon’smouth.Thispronounced 800 feetoveraneight-milesegmentto Loveland, theriverdropsmorethan canyon mouth, destroysLoveland’s watersupply Big Thompson Riveroverflowshalf-mile wideat The BigThompsonRiverdescendsmorethan2,100feetinjust May 31-June 1,1894 May 31-June under 20miles,droppinganaverageof105feetpermile. 9 34

generation, notfloodcontrol. whose “modest” capacitywasdesignedforpower the Olympus Dam (left), formingLake Estes, Big Thompson River (above) isimpoundedby Flowing throughthe Townof Estes Park,the Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity The River and theRoad —1-3 The River

13 11 dwarfed… [with] no quick escape. You are in a partially closed stone hand.” volume and energy. volume The steepest of the 12

36 settle over the years, giving rise to small rise to small the years, giving settle over names like Cedar communities with Comfort. Cove and Glen Conversely, the canyon constricts and Conversely, the remarkably near its steepens most a section known as the eastern end in the canyon is a mere 80 Narrows. Here, and enclosed by hard, to 100 feet wide rust- and lead-hued nearly vertical thousand- metamorphic cliffs soaring to foot heights. fractured cliffs lack vegetation, with the fractured cliffs lack vegetation, the rocks exception of lichens that stain a pale lime green. The river tumbles through a convoluted, boulder-strewn to the path of hairpin turns, a testament Narrows cliffs’ reluctance to yield. The has been described as “claustrophobic,” are a place “where human beings July 31, 1919 In rare instances, such as at In the river seems to relax Drake, at broad, relatively flat areas up to 500 feet wide. stranded at Forks Hotel in Drake 10-foot wall of water; 400 people are Several tributaries increase the Big Thompson’s Big Thompson’s increase the tributaries Several 10 In rare instances, such as at Drake, In rare instances, to relax. Sharp changes the river seems and slope, as well in stream direction side streams, have as outwash from relatively flat areas up to created broad, the canyon. Several 500 feet wide within braided stretches of the river are also form and shallow, where dry channels is these during low-flow conditions. It the river areas, calm and inviting when to is placid, that have drawn people together comprise comprise together Thompson the Big totaling Watershed, 900 approximately to the South miles that drain square Figure 1-1, opposite (see page).

35 July 7, 1906 out at Drake Flooding; bridge washes and the Road and River River Image source: P. Steinholtz Image source: P. The 1-4 — of the Big Thompson, which originates originates which Big Thompson, of the , the peaks of the high in National Rocky Mountain also within within the largest tributary Park. The the North Fork Canyon, Big Thompson by Fox Creek and West is, in turn, fed gulches also join Creek. Many smaller River within the the Big Thompson gradients characterize canyon. Steep The gulches; shorter gulches major tributary even steeper gradients, and gullies have gravitational forces where increasing rapidly downward. Each pull the water augments the of these tributaries energy, Big Thompson’s volume and the becoming ever more powerful waters farther it travels. These surface as the and their tributaries, as well south, to the River Figure 1-1:TheBigThompson RiverandUS34 Widespread flashflood;riverspreads half-mile wide atLoveland June 4,1921 37 canyon road andpartsofLoveland Big Thompson floodwaterscover June 7-10,1923 38

Flooding in Narrowsdestroysbridges and segments ofUS34;roadcloses Sept 2and11-12,1938 The River and theRoad —1-5 39

The River Image source: Public Domain Files, BLM, 2014 Files, Domain Public source: Image

41 During 17 July 19, 1945 16 in Big Thompson Canyon Massive 6- to 7-foot wall of water deer and bighorn sheep browse cliffs, and anglers the hillsides and its clear waters. But this coax fish from landscape is also a twisting, steep-sided floods. The pronounced prime setting for Canyon descent of the Big Thompson its steep gives rise to rapid flows, which As summer canyon walls cannot absorb. intense slips into late July and August, ominously mountain thunderstorms rise risk of overhead, bringing the greatest flash flooding. In a 1971 study, the U.S. Army Corps In a 1971 study, the U.S. Army the Big of Engineers determined that average Thompson River flooded an report, of once every six years. That flood which preceded the deadliest years, in Colorado’s history by five in recorded 12 large floods, starting spread 1864 when the Big Thompson an a mile wide at Loveland following extraordinary rainstorm.

40 Summer 1941 sizable bridge and road damage Most days, the Big Thompson courses calmly through its canyon. Most days, the Big Thompson courses calmly through Flooding in canyon and Loveland causes animals seeking food and shelter specific to each. The elemental difference between elemental difference between for light and shade, drawing side, and one on the cooler, side, and one on perpetually shaded south side. Plants colonize the slopes in response to their preference these slopes — the amount and these slopes — the amount and 15 intensity of sunlight they receive intensity of sunlight they receive — leads to profound ecological — leads to profound ecological differences, such as denser vegetation on north-facing slopes, vegetation on north-facing slopes, not always obvious to the untrained eye. Most days, the Big Thompson River Most days, the Big Thompson courses calmly through its canyon. Birds float on thermals overhead, Thompson River. As the River. As the Thompson increases closer elevation Ponderosa to the mountains, juniper Mountain Rocky and pine forming a montane become dominant, to an altitude of forest that extends about 8,000 feet. orientation gives The river’s east-west microclimates — rise to two distinctive sun-drenched north one on the drier, 14 and the Road and River River Suddenly and unexpectedly, the unexpectedly, and Suddenly out of the spits the river Narrows at flat plain and onto a broad, canyon river, freed doorstep. The Loveland’s canyon’s confines of the from the expands and quiets. constricting walls, more than 6,000 After descending traveling 78 miles from vertical feet and the Big Thompson its alpine origins, with the South Platte eventually merges Town of Greeley. River near the The canyon’s allure is due The canyon’s allure soaring cliffs not only to its and twisting turns, but the plants and animals that inhabit its confines. Expanses of grassy meadows interspersed with brush and thickets, willows, river birch, cottonwood groves line the banks of the Big The 1-6 — The River Image source: CDOT raised thewater12to 15inchesoverthe five dayslater,anovernight downpour under theimpulseofagale.” “plunging likethewavesofsea farther northoftheBigThompson, rushed downtheCachelaPoudreRiver that storm,waterladenwithdriftwood such damagetotakeplace.” now itisalmostimpossible forany and allthelowbridgeselevated,until precursor toUS34]hasbeenchanged proclaimed, “Sincethen,theroad[the latter event,theLoveland of water. reportedly unleashinga10-foot-tallwall bridges, isolatingtheForksHotel,and 1906 andagainin1919,washingaway 1894. Drakewashitbyhighwatersin half-mile wideatthecanyon’smouthin Not longafterward,waterextendeda the mouthofBigThompsonCanyon. saw a25-footwallofwatersurgefrom local newspaperreportedthatafarmer lives werelost.Intheearly1880s,a City ofFortCollins,butamazingly,no military postthatwasthesiteoftoday’s flood destroyedCampCollins,anearly the roadbedtobedrock. in twofeetofwaterandwashingout mad swirl,”coveringmostoftheroad “logs, planksandbridgesbeforeitina 19 The1919floodwatersswept The Narrowsspitstheriveroutofcanyonandontoabroad,flatplainatLoveland’sdoorstep. 20 Followingthe Daily Herald 21 18 Ironically, The1864

road, causing$200,000indamage. a half-miledownstream. and depositingitina grove oftrees near theriverjustoutside Loveland house, includingitsoccupants, located Thompson’s volume,washingawaya “very materially”increasedtheBig June 1921,fourdaysofprecipitation Here, thecanyonisamere80to100feetwide. at itseasternendinasectionknownasthe Narrows. The canyonconstrictsandsteepensmostremarkably headwaters; US34isdamaged Heavy rains atBigThompson June 4,1949 23 Twoyears Image source:P. Steinholtz 42

22 In The River and theRoad —1-7 Image source:P. Steinholtz The River The 1951 flood hit northern 1951 flood The the Big including Colorado, seven killing Thompson, location of these people. (The images is unknown.)

44 Yet in 2013, another disastrous Yet in 2013, another disastrous 29 The 1971 U.S. Army Corps of Engineers The 1971 U.S. In his 1980 book describing the flood of In his 1980 book describing the ends by 1976, author David McComb “strike at noting that, since rainstorms that [a random, the chances are slight Canyon] flood within the Big Thompson 333 will happen again for another years.” flood struck again, a mere 37 years flood struck again, a mere 37 later. June 1965

28 life, damage to homes and businesses Flooding near Loveland results in loss of Referring to 26

43

27 report “should create respect for the awesome power of the flooding river.” report “should create respect for the awesome power this event, the 1971 U.S. Army Corps of this event, the 1971 U.S. Army many Engineers report stated, “to the the 1951 people who did not experience a respect flood, this report should create flooding for the awesome power of the river.” The flood killed seven people, destroyed The flood killed and five homes, knocked out telephones, to cancel “deposited mud deep enough resulting the annual county fair,” again in $200,000 in damage. Twenty-five years would pass before Twenty-five years would pass flood the Big Thompson Canyon would — again with horrifying consequences flash the 1976 flood was the deadliest history. flood in Colorado’s recorded August 31, 1951 Worst flood to date; loss of life; damage to bridges, Worst roadways, and homes; one mile of US 34 is washed out and the Road and Intense precipitation 24 River River 25 Images source: Denver Public Library Images source: Denver Public The worst of the floods recorded in the The worst of the floods recorded 1951. 1971 study occurred in August Cove, Four inches of rain fell at Cedar bursting a reservoir on Buckhorn Creek, which enters the Big Thompson River three miles east of the canyon. An eight-foot wall of water swept a car containing a Denver family off US 34. later, floodwaters overflowed the Big later, floodwaters of Thompson’s banks in a number road,” places, covering “the Estes Park over a as well as parts of Loveland in foot of water. The 1-8 — The River of in September 1938 flooded several streams the Big Thompson’s tributary “The and the Big Thompson itself. was to chief damage from the flood in the the recently completed highway in 10 canyon, which was washed out places.” 38 37 35 34 26 24 22 36 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 25 23 21 20 19 16 11 10 7 18 9 8 15 14 13 6 5 4 3 2 1 Endnotes 17 12

Camp, Mildred.1976. McComb, DavidG Department ofArmy McComb, DavidG McComb, DavidG NorthernColoradoW T T DenverP McComb,David.1980. U McComb,David.1980. USGS LovelandR L McComb,DavidG LovelandDailyHerald,June1,1921,asquotedinMcComb1980. Department ofArmy LovelandDailyHerald,August1,1919,asquotedinUSGSFloodsColorado,byR W W U ColoradoStateUniversity U Ames,Hayley W U McComb,David.1980. U U McComb,David.1980. U Simons,D U U U LovelandChamberofCommerce.BigThompsonCanyon-AGorgeousRideThroughtoRMNP NationalP Weld CountyLine,Colorado;Little ThompsonRiver, BoulderandLarimerCountiesNearBerthoud,Colorado. June.https://usace.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/. Line, Colorado;LittleThompsonRiver, BoulderandLarimerCountiesNearBerthoud,Colorado.June.https://usace.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/. contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/. contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/. https://btwatershed.org/watershed-tour/. Herald. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/colorado-history/ci_24136918/big-thompson-canyons-first-road-built-1903-04; McComb, David.1980. Watershed Facts. https://btwatershed.org/watershed-facts/. Cache laPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf; Jacobs. 2014.HydrologicEvaluationoftheBigThompsonWatershed Post September2013FloodEvent;BigThompsonWatershed Forum.2019. Ayers andAssociates.BigThompsonRiverRestoration Master Plan.2015.May. U.S. https://bigthompson.co/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/BTWC_Master_Plan.pdf; GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,intheBigThompsonRiver Plain Information,BigThompsonRiver, Jacobs.2016.US34BigThompsonPermanent Loveland,Colorado.OmahaDistrict,NE; Repair Project, EstesPark toLovelandProject Number0341-084MP65to88VisualImpactAssessmentTechnical Memorandum. Thompson FloodDisaster. FinalReport totheGovernorofColorado.December31. http://bigthompson.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/1976-Final-Report-to-the-Governor-newer.pdf. Big ThompsonWatershed Post September2013FloodEvent. Counties, Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. Between North-andSouth-Facing Slopes.Sciencing. April27. https://sciencing.com/differences-between-north-southfacing-slopes-8568075.html. U.S.thompson-canyon-colorado; GeologicalSurvey, 1979,StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,intheBigThompsonRiverCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. Final-Report-to-the-Governor-newer.pdf. and Weld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf; Wright-McLaughlin Engineers.1977.BigThompsonFloodDisaster. FinalReport totheGovernorofColorado. December31. http://bigthompson.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/1976- Poudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. Final Report totheGovernorofColorado.December31. http://bigthompson.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/1976-Final-Report-to-the-Governor-newer.pdf. yler, David.TheLastWater HoleintheWest, asquotedinGrandCountyHistoryStories.1992. https://stories.grandcountyhistory.org/article/colorado-big-thompson-project. own ofEstesPark ThompsonProject. Colorado.2018.LearningAbouttheColorado-Big https://www.colorado.gov/pacific/townofestespark/event/learning-about-colorado-big-thompson-project. yons Recorder, June9,1921,asquotedinUSGSFloodsColorado,byRobert Sawyer, FollansbeeandLeonR. Water SupplyPaper 997,1948. https://pubs.usgs.gov/wsp/0997/report.pdf. .S. ArmyCorpsofEngineers.1971.FloodPlainInformation,BigThompsonRiver, Loveland,Colorado.OmahaDistrict,NE. .S. ArmyCorpsofEngineers.1971.FloodPlainInformation,BigThompsonRiver, Loveland,Colorado.OmahaDistrict,NE. .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf; Wright-McLaughlin Engineers.1977.Big .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf; Jacobs. 2014.HydrologicEvaluationofthe .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld 2018.Differences Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf; Williams,DianaK. .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. .S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,in theBigThompsonRiverandCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld Counties,Colorado,p.89, https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1115a-b/report.pdf. .S. ForestService.n.d.Rocky MountainRegion 14ers. https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/r2/recreation/?cid=stelprd3798321; U.S. GeologicalSurvey, 1979,StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,intheBigThompsonRiverCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,Larimer atrous, Ansel.1911.HistoryofLarimerCounty:ConnerPrinting &Publishing Co.,FortCollins,CO. https://archive.org/stream/cu31924028878936/cu31924028878936_djvu.txt; Jessen, Kenneth. 2013.BigThompsonCanyon’s firstroadbuiltin1903-04.Reporter atrous, Ansel.1911.HistoryofLarimerCounty:ConnerPrinting &Publishing Co.,FortCollins,CO. https://archive.org/stream/cu31924028878936/cu31924028878936_djvu.txt right-McLaughlin Engineers.1977.BigThompsonFloodDisaster. FinalReport totheGovernorofColorado.December31. http://bigthompson.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/1976-Final-Report-to-the-Governor-newer.pdf; U.S. ArmyCorpsofEngineers.1971.Flood . 1948.FloodsinColorado,byRobert Sawyer, FollansbeeandLeonR. Water SupplyPaper 997. https://pubs.usgs.gov/wsp/0997/report.pdf. ost. 2012. Big Thompson Flood of 1976. http://blogs.denverpost.com/library/2012/07/31/big-thompson-flood-disaster-colorado-1976/2795/. ost. 2012.BigThompsonFloodof1976. http://blogs.denverpost.com/library/2012/07/31/big-thompson-flood-disaster-colorado-1976/2795/. . B.,J. D. Reiter, R. Nelson,E. Barkau. 1978.Flood of 31July1976inBigThompsonCanyon,Colorado.TheNationalResearch L. andR. Council.NationalAcademyofSciences.Washington D.C. https://www.nap.edu/catalog/20007/flood-of-31-july-1976-in-big- ark Service.2016.Rocky MountainNationalPark, Colorado,GeologicActivity, https://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/nature/geologicactivity.htm; U.S. GeologicalSurvey. 1979.StormandFloodofJuly31-August 1,1976,intheBigThompsonRiverandCachela eporter-Herald, June9,1923,asquotedinUSGSFloodsColorado,byRobert Sawyer, FollansbeeandLeonR. Water SupplyPaper 997,1948. https://pubs.usgs.gov/wsp/0997/report.pdf. . 2018. Factors Affecting a River’s Velocity.. 2018.Factors AffectingaRiver’s Sciencing.U.S. https://sciencing.com/factors-affecting-rivers-velocity-8223150.html; ArmyCorpsofEngineers.1971.FloodPlainInformation,BigThompsonRiver, Loveland,Colorado.OmahaDistrict,NE; . 1980. . 1980. . 1980. . 1980. , OmahaDistrict,CorpsofEngineers.1977.Flood PlainInformationBigThompsonRiver, Loveland totheLarimer-Weld County Line,Colorado;LittleThompsonRiver, BoulderandLarimerCounties NearBerthoud,Colorado.June.https://usace. , OmahaDistrict,CorpsofEngineers.1977.FloodPlainInformationBigThompsonRiver, LovelandtotheLarimer-Weld CountyLine,Colorado;LittleThompsonRiver, BoulderandLarimerCountiesNearBerthoud,Colorado.June.https://usace. ater Conservancy District. Colorado-Big ThompsonProject NorthernWaterater ConservancyDistrict.Colorado-Big BoundariesandFacilitieshttp://btwatershed.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Main_C-BT-System-Map.pdf; BigThompsonWatershed map. Forum.2018. Watershed Tour. This FloodnottheFirst,ButProbablyWorst Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster.BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company. Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster.BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company;DepartmentofArmy, OmahaDistrict,CorpsofEngineers.1977.FloodPlainInformationBigThompsonRiver, LovelandtotheLarimer-Weld County Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster.BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster.BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company. . 2017.ClimateofColorado. http://climate.colostate.edu/climate_long.html; BigThompsonWatershed Forum.2018.Watershed Tour. https://btwatershed.org/watershed-tour/;Wright-McLaughlin Engineers.1977.BigThompsonFloodDisaster. . BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company. . BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company. . BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company;U.S. GeologicalSurvey, 1979,StormandFloodofJuly31-August1,1976,intheBigThompsonRiverCachelaPoudre RiverBasins,LarimerandWeld . BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company. Lithographic Press, Loveland, CO; DepartmentofArmy,. TheBigThompsonDisaster.LithographicPress, Loveland,CO; OmahaDistrict,CorpsofEngineers.1977.FloodPlainInformationBigThompsonRiver, LovelandtotheLarimer- obert Follansbee and Leon R. Sawyer,obert FollansbeeandLeonR. Water SupplyPaper 997,1948. https://pubs.usgs.gov/wsp/0997/report.pdf. . http://www.loveland.org/Big_Thompson_Canyon/. Big Thompson:ProfileofaNaturalDisaster.BoulderColorado:Pruett Publishing Company. The River and theRoad —1-9 The River This Flood not the First, But This Flood not the This Flood not the First, But Probably the Worst. The Big Thompson Disaster. Lithographic This Flood not the First, But Probably . Drake Club Press, Drake, CO; Camp, Mildred. 1976. Drake, Club Press, Flood of July 31, 1976. Drake Hearts: The Big Thompson Canyon Reflection of the . Lithographic Press, Loveland, CO. Disaster. Lithographic Press, . The Big Thompson . Drake Club Press, Drake, CO; Department of Army, Omaha District, Corps of Engineers. 1977. Flood Plain Information Big Thompson River, Big Thompson River, Information 1977. Flood Plain of Engineers. District, Corps Omaha CO; Drake, Army, Department of Press, Club . Drake of July 31, 1976 Canyon Flood The Big Thompson of the Hearts: Reflection CO. Drake, Club Press, Flood of July 31, 1976. Drake Hearts: The Big Thompson Canyon Reflection of the . Drake Club Press, Drake, CO; Drake, Camp, Mildred. 1976. Club Press, Thompson Canyon Flood of July 31, 1976. Drake Reflection of the Hearts: The Big and the Road and This Flood not the First, But Probably the Worst This Flood not the , Omaha District, Corps of Engineers. 1977. Flood Plain Information Big Thompson River, Loveland to the Larimer-Weld County Line, Colorado; Little Thompson River, Boulder and Larimer Counties Near Berthoud, Colorado. June. https://usace. Near Berthoud, Colorado. Boulder and Larimer Counties Little Thompson River, County Line, Colorado; to the Larimer-Weld Loveland River, Plain Information Big Thompson Corps of Engineers. 1977. Flood , Omaha District, , Omaha District, Corps of Engineers. 1977. Flood Plain Information Big Thompson River, Loveland to the Larimer-Weld County Line, Colorado; Little Thompson River, Boulder and Larimer Counties Near Berthoud, Colorado. June. https://usace. Near Berthoud, Colorado. Boulder and Larimer Counties Little Thompson River, County Line, Colorado; to the Larimer-Weld Loveland River, Plain Information Big Thompson Corps of Engineers. 1977. Flood , Omaha District, River River amsley, Sharlynn and Barbara Anderson. 1996. Sharlynn amsley, amsley, Sharlynn and Barbara Anderson. 1996. amsley, contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/; Wamsley, Sharlynn and Barbara Anderson. 1996. Sharlynn and Barbara Anderson. Wamsley, contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/; Loveland to the Larimer-Weld County Line, Colorado; Little Thompson River, Boulder and Larimer Counties Near Berthoud, Colorado. June. https://usace.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/. Counties Near Berthoud, Colorado. Boulder and Larimer River, Line, Colorado; Little Thompson County Larimer-Weld Loveland to the contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p266001coll1/id/4976/. Lithographic Press, Loveland, CO. Loveland, Disaster. Lithographic Press, . The Big Thompson Probably the Worst Loveland, CO. Press, Department of Army Department of Army W W 1976. Camp, Mildred. W

39 40 SharlynnandBarbaraAnderson.1996. amsley, 41 42 43 1-10 — The 1-10 44 The River The River and the Road – 2-1 The Road

The story of US 34 is a story of two Colorado communities and the connection between them: The lure of Estes Park and the Town of Estes Park Rocky Mountain National and the City of Loveland. Park inspired visitors to undertake arduous journeys to the mountains’ famed

Image source: Kiewit splendor.

Each town’s story and evolution reflect climbers, hunters, ranchers, health Valley. their strikingly disparate geographies, seekers, and tourists were all drawn Soon after, drawing settlers with vastly different to the high alpine valley of what would travelers started arriving by stage — and aspirations. The stories roughly begin become Estes Park, lured by the later, rail — in what would become the with what Theodore Roosevelt described outstanding beauty of surrounding City of Loveland. However, for visitors as the country’s “great leap Westward”1 peaks and the mythos of the Wild West. seeking the “wild auroras”2 of Estes — the pursuit of new opportunities, Meanwhile, farther east where the Park, the stage and rail lines to Loveland adventure and riches, and the urge to plains nose up to the foothills, early would get them only so far. What they tame a vast, unknown land stretching pioneers were drawn by the promise of needed was a route into the mountains, from the to the Rocky arable land. Farms and ranches began and the narrow canyon just west of Mountains. Explorers, mountain flourishing in the broad Big Thompson Loveland beckoned. Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public 1810 Big Thompson River David Thompson names Large military 4 Trappers endured a hardscrabble lifestyle that quickly imploded. Trappers Ten years later, the 1820 Long Ten years later, the 1820 Long 5 expeditions were deployed to survey and expeditions were deployed to study the country’s newly purchased and territories and their river systems natural, ethnographic, and geographical an English resources. David Thompson, the engineer and astronomer, explored West in search of sites for trapping Fur camps as an agent for the Northwest Company. In 1810, he magnanimously after named the Big Thompson River himself. The Rocky Mountain fur trade was The Rocky Mountain between 1820 and short-lived, peaking a time when Americans 1840. “This was in the politics became more interested beyond the Mississippi and geography and River; it was a time of expansion experimentation.” Expedition, led by Major Stephen H. Expedition, led by Major Stephen Long (for whom the City of Longmont traversed and Long’s Peak are named), Rocky the to the Early 1800s Arrival of “mountain men” to Estes Park area to Estes Park men” “Mountain men” searched for pelts and hides in searched for pelts men” “Mountain shown Park, National present-day Mountain Rocky Americans. Native blazed by at left, following trails

3 and the Road and River River Image source: Library of Congress Image source: Library The 2-2 — The Road in the Arriving in northern Colorado roamed early 1800s, “mountain men” the peaks and valleys of present-day and hides, Estes Park in search of pelts that enduring a hardscrabble life over- quickly imploded through zealous harvesting and diminishing demand. an These wilderness explorers roved Native untamed land, plying existing of American trails and blazing paths had their own. By the 1820s, they established camps along waterways throughout the region, living a life that “often invited tragedy.” time. on horseback—nosmall taskatthe had totransportallof hispossessions trails werewelldeveloped,andEstes southwest ofLoveland.Nonethe one thatextendedoverBaldMountain would becomeEstesPark,including least threeroughtrailsledtowhat Figure 2-1nextpage).Atthetime,at the routeofpresent-dayUS36(see Muggins Gulch),essentiallyfollowing Thompson River(knownthenas over themountainsalongLittle there, thetrailextended the TownofLyons.From traveling fromwhatisnow along theSt.VrainRiver, established byfurtrappers arrived viaanexistingtrail his futurenamesake.Estes present-day EstesPark, rush crowdsofDenverfor children —fledthegold explorer, andfatherto13 Estes —cattlerancher,goldseeker, of EstesParkbeganin1860whenJoel Settlement byEuropeansinthearea followed alongtheLittle Thompson/ United StatesGovernment.” to exploretheWestinnameof Mountains as“thefirstscientificparty 7 Helaterimprovedthe trailhehad Large military expeditions surveyed and studied the country’s newlypurchasedterritories. Large militaryexpeditionssurveyedandstudiedthecountry’s 6

the imageof Native Americans, below. Major Stephen H. Long (right) includes 1819 and1820underthecommandof Pittsburgh tothe in An accountofanexpeditionfrom Long Expedition explores Rocky Mountains 1820 power.” rig bycarefuldrivingandlotsofmotive “could benegotiatedbyafourwheel Muggins Gulchenoughsothatit over.” least lurchwouldturnthewagonorcart ridges, gulches,andhillswhere“the 9 Despitetheseimprovements,“it 8 This“improved”roadtraversed along region’s waterways Trappers establishcamps 1820s The Image source:DenverPublic Library River Image source:WikimediaCommons and theRoad —2-3 The Road 1858 Mariano Medina settles at mouth of Big Thompson River trade peaks 1820-1840 Rocky Mountain fur Rocky and the Road and River River Figure 2-1: 1913 Map of Estes Park and Vicinity Image source: U.S. Department of Interior, National Park Service, Office of History and Historic Architecture. 1971. Rocky Mountain National Park Historical Background Data. By F. Ross Holland, Jr. March. https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/romo2/holland.pdf March. https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/romo2/holland.pdf Holland, Jr. Ross Data. By F. Historical Background Mountain National Park Service, Office of History and Historic Architecture. 1971. Rocky National Park of Interior, Department Image source: U.S. The 2-4 — The Road by snow-cappedLong’sPeak.” by loftymountainsanddominated irregularly shapedvalleysurrounded a park,whichhedefinedas“along, wrote oftheuplandmeadowtheycalled necessitated abandoning hiswagon.But sliding descents”—the lastofwhich “lofty ridgelines”followed by“steep, backs,” andrepeatedlyascending vegetation “higherthanthehorse’s fork, negotiatingdensestandsof turning backafterfollowingthewrong but swift”St.VrainRiverseventimes, He wroteofcrossingthe“beautiful Simply arrivingwasafeatinitself. in hisfirstattempttoscaleLong’sPeak. News, whotraveledtotheareain1864 owner andeditoroftheRockyMountain One suchvisitorwasWilliamByers, unofficial hoststoavarietyoftravelers. beauty, theEstesfamilybecame As wordspreadofthearea’snatural world alltoourselves.” to disputeoursway.Wehadalittle streams. Therewasabsolutelynothing we surveyed,mountains,valleys,and declared, “Weweremonarchsofall what wehadfound,” worth thestrife.“Wedidnotknow The arduousjourneywasevidently a roadinanysense.” was yearsbeforethetrailcouldbecalled 11 10 Joel’ssonMilton

13

12 He Joel Estessettles inEstes Park area 1860 risk inpredictingthat nomanwillever its summit,andwebelieve werunno unless ithadwingsto fly,waseverupon wrote ofthepeak,“Notalivingcreature, him. Chagrinedbyhisfailure,Byers valley, thesummitofLong’sPeakeluded multiple obstaclesjusttoreachthe beauty.” him, Byershaileditas“theverygemof when, uponseeingthelandscapebefore the toilsoftripweresoonforgotten to avarietyoftravelers. family became unofficial hosts natural beauty,the Estes As wordspreadofthearea’s 14 AlthoughByerssurmounted William Byersnamedthemountainvalleyinhonorof establishes Miraville Mariano Medina 1860 will becomeafavorite pleasure resort.” predicting that“eventually thispark valley inhonorofhis hosts in1864, Estes family,Byersnamedthemountain the valley,butgraciousnessof Impressed notonlybythegrandeurof to thetop. that NativeAmericanshadbeatenhim summiting in1868,hefoundevidence be.” 15 Imaginehisvexationwhen,finally 16

Image source:FortCollinsMuseumofDiscovery, #H01826A the Estesfamilyin1864. The River and theRoad —2-5 17 The Road The stunning valley that The Park would become Estes and its surrounding peaks very were hailed as “the gem of beauty.” 1860s Tourism to Estes Park to Estes Park Tourism increases dramatically In 1873, a 21 Image source: Colorado State University During the late 1860s, ever-larger During the late 1860s, ever-larger groups of summer vacationists “Although descended upon Estes Park. in name the existing roads were roads of only, that did not stop the influx and dry visitors coming up from the hot Range towns along Colorado’s Front and, increasingly, from places farther east and even Europe.” 1860s begins in Loveland area Agricultural development

18 20 and the Road and Explorers and travelers 19 River River Notwithstanding the departure of the Notwithstanding the departure poor town’s founding family and the condition of the only known means of access, changes were “sweeping across this mountainous landscape and his in the decade after Joel Estes time that family sold and moved out…a explorers, brought official government hunters, more mountain climbers, more settlers. more subsistence ranchers and of It was a time that saw a flurry literate health seekers, promoters, and tourists.” Despite the honor, Joel Estes and his Estes and his the honor, Joel Despite remain to see that day. family would not of 1864/1865 proved The severe winter Estes clan, who left their enough for the for “a milder climate and signature park the cattle.” In 1866, a wider range for the park to Michael Joel Estes sold a man simply named Hollinbeck and of oxen. “Buck” for a yoke The 2-6 — sensationalized the area’s strangeness, sensationalized the area’s strangeness, scenery, unpredictability, breathtaking the and wilderness. They romanticized the known West as wildly divergent from anywhere life of patterns and predictable else. The American West was dangerous, but also very interesting. Explorers and travelers sensationalized the area’s strangeness, unpredictability, and breathtaking scenery. and breathtaking unpredictability, strangeness, the area’s sensationalized and travelers Explorers The Road a road“onlybycourtesy.” 1874 declaredthattheroutewascalled schooner fromIowatoEstesParkin bucket. Awomantravelingbyprairie appear tohavebeenmeredropsina along thecreeks.However,theirefforts had traveled,removingrocksandbrush to furtherimprovetheroadJoelEstes Newcomers toEstesParkattempted mountain havenremainedachallenge. and NewYork. distant citiesofChicago,Philadelphia, and Greeley,aswellthemore fellow travelersfromDenver,Longmont, reporter vacationinginthetownnoted Image source:LibraryofCongress 22 Butreachingthis 23

Overland Stage Line moves toColorado 1862 features.” region’s inhabitantsanditsnatural pen paintedvividportraitsofthe romantic imaginationanddescriptive mark inthemindsofherreaders.“Her 1873 andleftanindeliblelinguistic visited EstesParkforthreemonthsin Englishwoman and“literatetourist,” Isabella Bird,anadventurous and furious, blazing noons,itshurricanessharp and sunsets,itsgloriousafterglow, region seekingthe“peerlesssunrises travelers increasinglypouredintothe and talesofamythologizedWest, 24 Stirredbysuchimages U.S. cities,andEurope. Colorado’s Front Range, eastern groups ofsummervacationistsfrom Estes Park (left) luredever-larger (right) andthe Town of Homestead Actisenacted 1862 Reaching themountain The remained achallenge. River haven ofEstesPark Image source:NationalPark Service and theRoad —2-7 The Road Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, #H08964 Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, Image source: 1864 Denver Public Library Denver Public Park after Estes family after Estes Park William Byers names Estes However, However, 28

30 32 The locals “disliked The locals “disliked Although 29 31 and when the Denver and when the Denver of newspapers learned his scheme, they “put the glare of publicity on it.” his heavy-handed ways,” his heavy-handed [Ferdinand] Hayden or [John Wesley] [John Wesley] Hayden or [Ferdinand] for science.” Powell explored As word of Estes Park’s glories spread, As word of Estes Park’s glories more and more people succumbed to it appears Dunraven overstepped his it appears Dunraven he became so charmed bounds. Because he “tried to take all the with the area, enjoyment and that of park for his own through fraudulent his friends,” often means. Dunraven soon packed his things and moved back to England, his legacy persisted. “Perhaps the most important mark he left,” noted an author of the area’s history, “both intentional and inadvertent, was the impetus he gave to the resort and industry of the area by his activities his writings.” 1864

Estes Park area Estes Park 25 William Byers first visits

26 With 27 and the Road and River River In the same year, author Ovando In the same year, in the Hollister reported that “rambles Mountains, riding, hunting, bathing, living on fishing, berrying, camping out, and air, puts new cheeks on old bones paints them the richest brown.” The Earl of Dunraven (shown lower The Earl of Dunraven (shown right), who was perhaps the most and significant early contributor of Estes advocator for the development as Park and Big Thompson Canyon from a tourist destination, arrived 1872. England to hunt big game in Along with Isabella Bird, he represented of “a distinctly curious generation for people, investigating regions adventure or excitement as eagerly as such vociferous praise, rapid change such vociferous praise, rapid was close at hand. its wild auroras, its glories of mountain of mountain auroras, its glories its wild lake, and river” of canyon, and forest, The 2-8 — that Bird (shown at right with horse) that Bird (shown portrayed. Other so passionately also whetted the enthusiastic travelers seeking the wonders appetite of those In his 1867 of Colorado’s wilderness. Trip, Bayard book Colorado: A Summer “Colorado will soon Taylor prophesied, our Switzerland.” be recognized as The route to Estes Park was called a road “only by courtesy.” called a road was to Estes Park The route The Road area aroundLongs efforts topreservethe activism. Histireless Mills devotedhislifetoconservationand encounter withnaturalistJohnMuir, ascents asaguide.Afterchance the ageof15,andanadditional300 of 40soloascentsLong’sPeakat the movesuitedhim.Hemadehisfirst Kansas inthemiddle1880s.Clearly, him tohitchhikeEstesParkfrom and cleanlivingwasenoughtoconvince health bestowedbyfreshmountainair Midwestern teenager.Thepromiseof its allure,includingEnosMills,asickly As wordofEstesPark’s gloriesspread,moreandpeople succumbedtoitsallure. hits EstesPark Severe winter 1864/1865 beginnings oflocalgovernment. was officiallyformed,andwithit,the years later,theTownofEstesPark the eastsideofBigThompsonCanyon agriculture wasthedrivingforceon the primaryindustryinEstesPark, While tourismwasfastbecoming Colorado’s plains,20milesdownstream. Meanwhile, thingswerestirringon Mountain NationalParkin1915. Peak ledtotheestablishmentofRocky 34 33 Two Estes family leaves Estes Park 1866 those thatfollowed. and, inturn,influenced the beautyof Estes Park were deeplyinfluencedby of Dunraven (opposite page), Isabella Birdandthe Earl Early visitors,suchas The River Image source:LibraryofCongress and theRoad —2-9 The Road Medina established a new town that the Rocky Mountain News dubbed “Miraville” in 1860, and recruited Mexican families from Taos to work the land and populate the

36 Mariano Medina, formerly a trapper Mariano Medina, the Big Thompson and scout, was settler and Valley’s first permanent With judicious foresight, entrepreneur. a sturdy toll bridge over he constructed River. The bridge, the Big Thompson pilings driven into the which rested on and supported by bottom of the river on either side, substantial cribbing river “was well above the level of the charged even during flood stage.” He bridge, travelers one dollar to cross his river was likely increasing it when the flooding. 1867-1890 Loveland area Settlers move into settlement at the crossing of the Big Thompson River. Big Thompson of the at the crossing settlement 35 The area that would become the City of Loveland began with a small began City of Loveland become the that would The area Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, #H01421 Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, The area that would become the City The area that would become mouth of of Loveland, located near the 30 the Big Thompson Canyon roughly with miles east of Estes Park, began of a small settlement at the crossing 1858. the Big Thompson River around starting in the late 1860s. Settlers starting in the area between 1867 moved into the in response to the and 1890, generally of 1862. Two fledgling Homestead Act come and go before settlements would lasting — attempt took a third — and by construction of a new hold, anchored railroad. 1867 Switzerland Writer likens Colorado to likens Writer Mariano Medina (above) was the Big was (above) Medina Mariano first permanent Valley’s Thompson settler (home at right) and entrepreneur, Miraville near Town of forming the present-day Loveland. and the Road and River River Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, #Modena_Mariana #Modena_Mariana Museum of Discovery, Fort Collins Image source: 2-10 — The 2-10 The Road of modern-dayLoveland. and alongtheBigThompsonRiverwest and ranchesintheBigThompsonValley homesteaders alsoestablishedfarms the 1870s. The communityflourished formuchof the communitytoadopt thesamename. “St. Louis”onhisflourbags,inspiring marketing strategy,hebeganprinting settlement aroundthemill.Aspartofa this area,spurringgrowthofasmall relocated hisflourmillfromBoulderto developing nearby.AndrewDoutyhad for thegrowingcommunityofSt.Louis of thesettlementhadbeenabandoned time ofMedina’sdeathin1878,most throughout muchofthe1860s,by Although thetowncontinuedtogrow Marion’s Crossing. station, knownasFortNamaquaor essentially turnedMiravilleintoastage at Medina’ssmallsettlement,and route crossedtheBigThompsonRiver of thegrowingDenvermarket.This route inColoradototakeadvantage Trail inWyomingtotheOverland Stage LinemovedfromtheOregon small village.In1862,theOverland 39

37 Aroundthistime, 38 William Byers summits Long’s Peak 1868 bypassing St.Louisand Namaqua. in whatwasonceBarnes’ wheatfield, had completedtheLoveland traindepot By Decemberof1877,therailcompany an 80-acretownneartheproposedline. Denver toFortCollins,hebeganplatting a railroadlinewouldsoonextendfrom Railroad, alertedBarnestonewsthat the PresidentofColoradoCentral his friendWilliamA.H.Loveland, north oftheBigThompsonRiver.When farm 320acresofwheatimmediately Big ThompsonValleyfromGoldento In 1873,DavidBarnesmovedtothe Image source:DenverPublic Library 40 Community ofSt.Louis flourishes 1870s town neartheproposed railline. David Barnesbegan plattinga Colorado Central Railroad. eventually anchoredbythe various earliersettlements, Big Thompson Canyon from evolved atthemouthof The Town ofLoveland The River and theRoad —2-11 The Road Plat commissioners 46 As a result, many people 45 canyon was originally used for ranching canyon was originally used for and and homesteading, recreational leisure activities, such as fishing, more camping, and hiking became 1930s commonplace in the 1920s and piqued as interest in the American West the nation. flocked to Big Thompson Canyon both flocked to Big Thompson Canyon attracted permanently and seasonally, by aesthetically pleasing streamside building lots along canyon bottoms and gently sloping areas, particularly stream the relatively large terraces at confluences. (who typically make recommendations (who typically make recommendations land) regarding subdividing plots of purchased acreage along the river during the 1920s and 1930s, then 1873

at Estes Park 42 Isabella Bird arrives — a 260 43 Although the 44 On May 11, 1881, the Town of Loveland was formally incorporated. of Loveland was formally On May 11, 1881, the Town percent increase in the span of just percent increase in the span three years. Some intrepid pioneers ventured Big beyond Loveland and up the Thompson Canyon, also propelled by the Homestead Act. As Barnes had likely anticipated, the As Barnes had likely anticipated, railroad led to rapid growth. Roughly 250 townspeople called Loveland 1885, home in 1882; by the close of its population exceeded 900 Although many residents suggested Although many residents suggested new the name “Barnesville” for their to community, David Barnes opted friend name the town after his good Mr. Loveland, who had so generously coming. tipped him off to the railroad’s 1872

41 Earl of Dunraven arrives at Estes Park and the Road and River River The Colorado Central Railroad Railroad The was built in in Loveland Depot 1877. Smaller, nearby settlements due to the relocated to Loveland presence of the railroad. Image source: Denver Public Library Denver Public Image source: Construction of Barnes’ town began Construction of Barnes’ town shortly thereafter. Two pioneer the new merchants “took a gamble on Barnes town” and purchased lots from the for $350, immediately erecting building. community’s first substantial 2-12 — The 2-12 The Road Merchants from St. Louis, a mile to the upstream, began relocating closer would not railroad, realizing their town erected survive without it. Homes were soon after, and on May 11, 1881, Barnes’ town was formally incorporated. has since“survivedand endured.” built theircabinonthehillside,which this signasawarning,theyinstead curiously highabovetheriver.Taking large logthatwaslodgedinthemeadow, were perplexedbythepresenceofa The taskseemedeasy.However,they and invitingmeadowwithinthecanyon. couple decidedtobuildacabinonflat were D.T.andLillianB.Pulliam.The Among theearliestcanyonresidents today. remain intheBigThompsonCanyon 1910) andCedarCove(November1920), Drake (whosesubdivisiondatestoJuly Some ofthesecommunities,including into smallresidentialcommunities. developers, whosubdividedtheplots selling portionsoftheirhomesteadsto basis. Earlypatentownersalsobegan return tothewildernessonaregular in thecanyonasvisitorssoughtto of summercabinsbegansprouting cabin retreatsandoases.Asprinkling acreage plotsperfectforsingle-family subdivided largeparcelsintosmall National Parkgreatly increased national Development ofRocky Mountain 47 People flocked toBigThompsonCanyon. 48

David Barnes arrivesat Big Thompson Valley 1873 1915, after itopenedin 1920, justfiveyears visited “Rocky”in quarter millionpeople the area.Morethana and regionalinterestin publicity toattract that it“neededspecial supervisor decided 1916, thepark’ssecond marketing efforts.In part todubiousearly 49 perhapsduein Image source:DenverPublic Library notes road’s badcondition Writer visitingEstesPark 1874 Image source:HistoryColorado banks. sprang upontheriver’s Loveland Heights (above) small communitieslike Thompson Canyon, where became popularinBig Recreational activities The River and theRoad —2-13 The Road Small 51 52

50 ranger, who soon left his position to who soon left ranger, for the Army in France scale timber instead. However, reaching the town’s famed However, reaching the town’s Without attractions was no small task. National a railroad to Rocky Mountain Park, tourists seeking Estes Park’s Loveland promised splendor arrived at initially via Miraville’s early stagecoach replaced station, which was eventually by Loveland’s railroad, coming tauntingly close to the famed park’s doorstep. The ensuing challenge was Despite the demise of the Modern the demise of Despite of Rocky Mountain Eve, the grandeur sufficient to lure National Park was without her. Estes visitors with or an ever-growing tourist Park catered to sought the beauties of population that American West with Colorado and the conservation new trails, buildings, most notably Trail efforts, and roads, snakes through Ridge Road, which the alpine reaches of Rocky Mountain National Park as part of US 34. communities like Estes Park offered communities like Estes Park visitors a glimpse into the genuineness, life, charm, and beauty of rural western such and provided unique activities hiking, as horseback riding, fishing, and camping, specialty shopping, wildlife viewing. 1875 toll road to Estes Park Alex MacGregor completes Image source: Colorado State University visitors,” specifically in the form of a the form of specifically in visitors,” with a Eve.” In cooperation “Modern he employed Denver newspaper, leading dress girl in a leopard-skin a pretty park, skipping through the to “roam fish with her hands about and catching The park ranger and picking berries.” at regular intervals to would meet her so she could retire deliver street clothes a few days while the to a local inn for was being dry- leopard-skin garment of this advertising cleaned. The propriety well with the park tactic did not sit 1875 Bald Mountain Road Petition circulates to extend circulates Petition Although was focused Mills Enos Although on conservation and preservation of he Park, National Mountain Rocky Eve nonetheless bid farewell to“The as she prepared to spend a of Estes” week frolicking in the park. and the Road and River River

Image source: Lulabeth and Jack Melton Collection

lured visitors from afar. from lured visitors Rocky Mountain National Park National Park Mountain Rocky 2-14 — The 2-14 The Road followed. MacGregorimprovedtherough the routeJoelEsteshadoriginally Lyons, southwestofLoveland—likely to EstesParkthatledfrompresentday in thetroublesomeconditionofroad came prepared.” remained atrialevenforthosewho as “theroadstoandfromthevalley getting fromLovelandtothemountains, and lawyer” Q. MacGregor—“ashrewdbusinessman investment money,amannamedAlex Finding himselfwithabitofextra 54 —recognizedopportunity 53

Colorado — CentennialState Congress creates stateof 1876 own ranch. Park andconvenientlyterminatedathis Road, whichtraveledeastofLittleElk Company completedtheMacGregorToll In 1875,hisEstesParkWagonRoad tolls ontheroadfornext10years. which alsogavehimtherighttocollect funds fromtheTerritoriallegislature, (generally thecurrentUS36route)with dirt pathalongtheSt.VrainCanyon per trip, a dollar was charged the road 55 Eachhorseteamtraveling Reaching famedattractionswas nosmalltask. EstesPark’s Estes Park. visitors andsettlersto increasing numbersof grandeur broughtever- and talesofmountain distant Longs Peak Views likethisoneof Image source:LibraryofCongress depot isestablished Loveland train 1877 to theAmericanTrail System. a NationalRcreationTrail fordemonstratingits significance National Recreation Trail, whichwasdesignatedin1981as Currently, thesetwotrailscomprisetheRound Mountain Carter Lake reservoirs. Canyon, theeasternplainsofColorado,andPinewood and Douglas fir. ViewsfromthetrailincludeBigThompson granite outcroppingsandforestsofponderosapine summit ofSheepMountainandtravelingthroughseveral continues south,contouringaroundthelandscapeto Ranger Force, a groupof teenagers fromLoveland. Thistrail in the1930s.Portions havebeenrebuiltbytheLoveland Mountain Trail). MostofthistrailwasconstructedbytheCCC by theSummitNatureTrail (alsoreferredtoastheRound trailhead toaridge,theFoothillsNatureTrail isjoined Shortly afterascendingapproximately480feetfromthe over onemilewest. trail eventuallybecomingIdelwildLane,intersectingUS34 Thompson Canyon.Currentaerialphotographsshowthe Civilian ConservationCorps(CCC)thatoverlookstheBig The trailcontinueswesttoanoldstoneshelterbuiltbythe eventually revertingtoatrailagainsometimebefore1989. transitioned multipletimesbetweenatrailandroad, dirt roadsometimepriorto1961,andappearshave and cobbles.Thetrailwasconvertedtoanunimproved landscape ofpinesandgrasses,dottedbygraniticboulders Constructed around1905,thetrailluredtravelersthrougha enthusiasm forrecreationwithintheBigThompsonCanyon. Trail, directlyacrossfromCedarCove,isanexampleofearly Development ofwhatisnowknownastheFoothillsNature National Recreation Trail Round Mountain The River 157

and theRoad —2-15 The Road Improvements to the Improvements Park existing road to Estes were needed to help ensure visitors could reach the Mountain town and Rocky Park. National 1878 MacGregor’s road Visitors begin using

60 The stage line to Estes Park was one of “grandeur.” was Park line to Estes The stage In the 59 intriguingly titled , an Fifteen Thousand Miles by Stage into Estes early visitor describes riding Park by stagecoach from Longmont a through Lyons in 1878. Following into “newly improved toll road” carved (most the hillsides four years earlier via likely the MacGregor Toll Road) Park Alexander MacGregor’s Estes Wagon Road Company, she recalled, “the stage ride was one of grandeur, wheels, from the very first turn of the up, up, up, along the zigzag trail until the day was nearly spent….” Estes Park as early as 1878. 1878 Mariano Medina dies

56 and the Road and Although MacGregor’s 57 River River

58 Image source: Collection of P. Steinholtz of P. Collection Image source: 2-16 — The 2-16 Visitors travelled MacGregor’s road by Visitors travelled MacGregor’s horse-drawn wagons and stage lines, which operated between Longmont and road was a significant improvement road was a significant improvement “plagued over the existing route, it was start.” In with difficulties from the very particular, “a toll road was exceedingly [Estes] unpopular with the people of Park.” although regulars were rewarded with although regulars were rewarded cents. discounted rates of 50 or 60 The Road first three The road generated $31 in its profit of days of business, of which a tollkeeper $7 remained after paying the and laborers. Visitors travelled to Estes Park via horse-drawn wagons andstagelines. Visitors travelledto EstesPark viahorse-drawn Image source:FortCollinsMuseumofDiscovery, #H11154 were likelyusedtoreachEstes Park, side ofRocky Mountain National park, Grand LakeandGranby onthewest this postcardofastagelinebetween stagecoachs,suchasin Horse-drawn Town ofLovelandis incorporated 1881 Loveland population reaches 250 1882 the ownerstopostaman atthegate first placereactedaccordingly, leading never tookkindlytoa tollroadinthe raising thetollcharges.” “made aseriousmistakebyimmediately group ofLongmontbusinessmenwho sold histollroadaround1885toa Ten yearsafteritopened,MacGregor mention.” ropes,” andotheritems“tootediousto fishing tackle,feedforourteam,picket furniture, gunsandammunition, of provisions,cookingutensils,table rubbers, umbrellas,boxesandsacks other necessarybedding,overcoats, camp stove,buffalorobes,blanketsand His mélangeincluded“acamptent, Park bymeansofhorse-drawnwagon. required foratypicaljourneytoEstes Flory itemizedtheplethoraofitems Wild Frontier hours. InhisThrillingEchoesfromthe required amatterofdaysratherthan undertaking, andtraveltoEstesPark camping atthattimewasamajor which was“alwayspopular.”However, 1800s typicallyinvolvedcampingout, vacation tripstothemountainsin As formanyColoradovisitorstoday, 61 publishedin1893,J.S. The River and theRoad —2-17 62 Settlerswho The Road

67 On the eastern end, the 66 to Estes Park was needed. to Estes Park A more direct road from Loveland A more direct road from Loveland road completely avoided the Narrows road completely avoided the Narrows several of Big Thompson Canyon by of miles. The route followed a series steep valleys and ridges, traversing and slippery hills, cresting ridgelines, corners and swinging sharply around a light as it dropped into gulches. Only handle wagon and a sturdy team could the ascent, with the driver periodically block the walking behind the wagon to wheels so the team could rest. right word.” The road’s challenges resulted in The road’s challenges resulted reduce reroutes and modifications to existing the grade and connect to the 1885 MacGregor sells toll road Unlike 64 other western national parks direct road from Loveland to Estes Park. Traveling through the Big Thompson Canyon in Canyon Thompson through the Big Traveling camping out, wagon required 1904 by covered undertaking, which was a major Loveland citizens 65 contributed money and labor to build contributed money and labor which the 40-mile Bald Mountain Road, through traveled over Bald Mountain, along Rattlesnake Park, up Pole Hill, Muggins Gulch, and across Solitude just short Gulch, evidently terminating next page). of Estes Park (see Figure 2-2 from The “easiest” way into Estes Park that point was to “drop into Emmons Gulch — drop, in this case, being the like Yellowstone, Glacier, and Grand like Yellowstone, Glacier, and Rocky Canyon, a railroad never served Park’s Mountain National Park — Estes main attraction. 1885 reaches 900 Loveland population 63 and the Road and River River Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public 2-18 — The 2-18 As the 1900s approached and As the 1900s approached and settlement in the region increased, a campaign evolved to develop a more The Road with orders to shoot to kill anyone teamsters refusing to pay. In response, gate who used the road pulled the legal case down, leading to a protracted that went all the way to the Colorado were Supreme Court. The road owners road to ultimately defeated, and this Estes Park, which today generally free to the follows US 36, was once again public, although poorly maintained. Figure 2-2:BigThompson RiverandUS34 Enos Mills arrives at Middle 1880s Estes Park Bald Mountain Road is established Late 1880s The River and theRoad —2-19 The Road Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public 1888-1890 Mountain Road Stage line uses Bald The precursor to US precursor to The 34 evolved as a feat of engineering through a narrow, high-walled chasm Narrows.” known as “the Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public 1887

68 powered automobile F.O. Stanley invents steam- F.O. Building a road through the Narrows was deemed possible. Building a road through the and the Road and River River People have long enjoyed picnics beside the Big picnics beside the have long enjoyed People 1910 between taken photo this in as River, Thompson nearby. Ford automobile parked with a and 1920 2-20 — The 2-20 The Estes Park. toll road just outside with 25 signatures When a petition to area commissioners was presented the road all the in 1875 to extend way to Estes Park, the commission appropriated $250 — an insufficient A amount even by 1875 standards. subscription was started to solicit donations of money and labor. Roadfor the Ultimately, most of the labor route was donated, and the money gathered was the enough to hire a foreman to oversee to the job. Because it was free and open heavy public, this improved road saw carried traffic. One summer, the road to Estes the mail and all other traffic washed Park when the route from Lyons this out, and a stage line even traveled This road between 1888 and 1890. “fairly good road” was used to reach Estes Park from Loveland until 1903. him leewaytodesignand buildthe to WilliamA.Rileyfor $24,000,giving Larimer Countyawarded thecontract 100 feet. road, ranginginlengthfromthreefeetto to constructseveralbridgesonthenew of 20miles,”andaseparatebidrequest Estes Park...anapproximatedistance River bythemostpracticalrouteto construct aroad“uptheBigThompson county issuedarequestforproposalsto possible. Narrows andalongthecanyonbasewas that buildingaroadthroughthe to conductasurvey,whodetermined Commissioners hiredacivilengineer through itin1902.TheLarimerCounty canyon, inspiredapetitionforroad H. Cond,whowasfamiliarwiththe feat ofengineering.AmannamedC. Canyon duringthe1800s—butasa travel upanddowntheBigThompson evolving trail—althoughpeopledid become US34emergednotasaslowly- Lyons toEstesPark,theroadthatwould In contrasttotheoriginalroadfrom another route. enough, andpeoplebeganconsidering But “fairlygood”wasn’tquitegood Riley’s Road toEstesPark fromLovelandwas“roughRiley’s andbad.” 70 69

InDecemberof1902,the spurs Good Roads Movement Cycling craze sweepscountry, 1890s spring runoff. when theroadwasinundated during were “hazardousifnot impossible” water level,andoutings toEstesPark few feetabovetheBigThompsonRiver’s oncoming traffic.Thegradewasjusta which werebuilttoaccommodate road requiredwidely-spacedturnouts, drive road.Thesingle-lane,shoulderless would qualifyasaprimitivefour-wheel By today’sstandards,“Riley’sRoad” road ashechose. known asRiley’sRoad. Loveland wasalldownhill. Mountain route,andthereturntripto Estes ParkwaspreferabletotheBald “rough andbad,”theuphillclimbto by 1922.AlthoughRiley’sRoadwas fading intoascaronthemountainsides Mountain routewassoonabandoned, was completedin1903,andtheBald 74 Corduroybridges, 71 Thisroadbecame (see yellowshadinginmapatright). needed totakethemwest Estes Park visitors to Loveland, butaroutewas The Overland Stagelinebrought 72 Riley’sRoad 73 through Big ThompsonCanyon Petition circulates fornewroad 1902 Image source:FortCollinsMuseumofDiscovery, #H08077 The River and theRoad —2-21 The Road

77 Speaking to 78 canyon. In one instance later In one instance canyon. by Abner Sprague described on a horse- — a passenger through drawn stagecoach became the canyon who — the Riley’s chief engineer water group encountered to wall. To rushing from wall continue, Sprague had to saddle a horse continue, Sprague bed and lead the coach to find the road currents. through the strong Abner Sprague, Riley noted that the Abner Sprague, Riley noted that the county engineer who had conducted the original survey had miscalculated for the amount of earth to be removed road’s construction. While discussing (which the plans and specifications by the were somehow missing) prepared “I told county engineer, Sprague recalls, have [Riley] he was crazy, that he should more known he would have to move material than that to build a bridle path Because he had completed the road Because he had completed the help at his own expense (with the of several creditors), Riley claimed that ownership of it in 1904, asserting dollars he was owed several thousand estimates based on the scope and cost provided by the county. 1903 William Riley completes road through the canyon Early stage 76 By today’s standards, “Riley’s Road” Road” “Riley’s standards, By today’s four-would qualify as a primitive wheel drive road. enterprises, which began using the enterprises, which began using finished. road almost as soon as it was route A stagecoach line followed the in 1905 to connect travelers from in the Colorado & Southern Railroad Loveland with Estes Park. trips from Loveland to Estes Park could trips from Loveland to Estes take one to two days, with a night up the spent at the Forks Hotel halfway 1902 bids for canyon road Larimer County requests

and the Road and

75 River River Riley claimed ownership of his namesake road in 1904. road Riley claimed ownership of his namesake Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public 2-22 — The 2-22 consisting of tightly-spaced logs, were consisting of tightly-spaced logs, the road in placed perpendicular across if low-lying areas to provide a durable, jolting, crossing. Horses understandably to be led hated these bridges and had over them. The Road Riley’s The questionable condition of Road did not deter public transportation Estes Park. Riley’s RoadconnectingLovelandand constructing anelectriccarlinealong Park ElectricRailway,withthegoalof incorporated theLovelandandEstes along withtwobusinesspartners, claimed ownershipoftheroad,Riley, At approximatelythesametimehe a wagonroad.” 20 milesthroughthatcanyon,letalone total of$19,000theoriginalroad In 1904,LarimerCountypaidRileya county commissionersintolegalaction. Image source:LibraryofCongress 80 Thismoveforcedthe 79

Bald Mountain Road is abandoned 1903 The countyengineerhadmiscalculatedtheamountofearthtoberemoved. River’s waterlevel, the Big Thompson just afewfeetabove The road’s gradewas F.O. Stanleyarrives at EstesPark 1903 The River Image source:DenverPublic Library and theRoad —2-23 The Road Image source: Denver Public Library Public Image source: Denver 1904 for the canyon road County partially pays Riley

82 High water levels were to be avoided were to be avoided water levels High to Estes Road Riley’s when traveling if which made trips “hazardous Park, not impossible.” Riley wanted to construct an electric car line along his road. Riley wanted to construct an Upon settlement, 81 the roadbed was turned over to the county, thereby killing the future of Riley’s electric railway. The route remained a wagon track. lost money that did more good.” Perhaps due to the quarrel with Riley over ownership of the road, it appears that Larimer County began referring to Riley’s Road as the “Big Thompson Road” after assuming responsibility for it. Yet maintaining the road became a 1904 road through the canyon Riley claims ownership of the and the Road and River River Image source: Library of Congress 2-24 — The 2-24 The this construction contract. However, shy final payment was a few thousand Roadshorting of the agreed-upon $24,000, the Bank of Loveland and other goods businessmen who had furnished & Southern and materials. The Colorado visitors to Railway, whose line delivered tourist Loveland, wanted the increased in another traffic, and therefore kicked among $3,000. This sum was divided only Riley’s creditors, but represented were a small percentage of what they lamented due. Writing in 1922, Sprague this road that “Riley did more work on three times than has been done since for twenty thousand dollars.” However, speaking of the defrauded creditors, he added, “These men say they never town’s history as “theepoch-makingevent”inthe Stanley’s friendEnosMillsgushed in 1903attheageof54(anoccasion industry. UponarrivinginEstesPark keen interestintherisingautomobile Stanley hadmoney,ambition,anda — offeredthecountyadealin1907. Park —FreelandOscar(F.O.)Stanley an enterprisingnewcomertoEstes a lostopportunityintheneglectedroad, 1918). Relentlessautomobile promoters, ironically diedinacar accidentin in 1897withhistwin brother (who steam-powered automobile heinvented him hisnamesakeStanleySteamer,a and entrepreneur.Hebroughtwith a successfulandenterprisinginventor the single-trackroadpassable. only enoughmaintenanceworktokeep settlement, LarimerCountyperformed headache. Forseveralyearsafterthe Maintaining theBigThompsonRoad becameaheadache. 84 Stagecoach lineuses ), Stanleywasalready Riley’s Road Riley’s 1905 83 Sensing Image source:HistoryColorado Foothills Nature Trail is established (approx.) 1905 the town’s history. event”of epoch-making to Estes Park was“the Oscar Stanley(at left) the arrivalof Freeland Enos Mills claimedthat Stanley’s “Rocket” reaches “Rocket” Stanley’s The 127 milesper hour River 1906 and theRoad —2-25 Image source:DenverPublic Library The Road

85 “This large and 86 87 According to Mills, “At first, the people According to Mills, “At first, of the Park were almost unanimously, to and maybe even bitterly, opposed and the automobile. But it was speedy comfortable, and from the beginning it brought increasing numbers of the “quirky and brilliant” brothers had brothers had and brilliant” the “quirky existing speed records already shattered automobile — when their “Rocket” “the world’s fastest ingloriously dubbed an astounding 127 canoe” — reached in 1906. miles per hour Stanley made it clear to the people of Stanley made it he was staying for good Estes Park that guests to the and would be delivering in town via grand Stanley Hotel he built hotel, his Stanley Steamer Wagon. The “in the completed in 1909 for $500,000 startled wilds 25 miles from a railroad, the business world,” thus furthering the town’s publicity and hastening its development. adventurous investment required nerve, adventurous investment required to see good business sense, the capacity and the recreation needs of the future, future showed great confidence in the of the of Estes Park,” Enos Mills wrote endeavor. 1907 Riley’s Road Stanley offers to maintain entrepreneur when he arrived at Estes Park. he arrived at when entrepreneur Stanley was already a successful and enterprising inventor and inventor and enterprising a successful was already Stanley People of Estes Park were initially were initially Park of Estes People but soon opposed to automobiles, brought increasing realized that they to the town, numbers of visitors Hotel (below). includng the Stanley 1906-1908 transition to auto lines Horse-drawn stage lines Image source: Colorado State University Image source: Colorado and the Road and River River Image source: Photo of historic image housed at Stanley Hotel 2-26 — The 2-26 The Road via hisStanleySteamerWagon. Stanley madeitclearhewouldbedeliveringgueststohishotel apparently against Park AutoCompany, of theLoveland-Estes unambiguous name under theprosaicbut to EstesParkin1907 first “autostageline” son teamlaunchedthe a Lovelandfather-and- Big ThompsonCanyon, stage linethroughthe of thehorse-drawn after theestablishment Less thantwoyears US 36. from Lyonsthatwouldlaterbecome Thompson Canyontotheoriginalroute thereupon shiftedhisfocusfromtheBig state turneddownhisoffer.Stanley impending monopoly,thecountyand to andfromEstesPark.Sensingan exclusive franchisetotransportvisitors only thingherequiredinreturnwasan Canyon] roadingoodshape.” “offered toputthe[BigThompson became morepopular,F.O.Stanley development.” has addedtothePark’sprosperityand people totheParkandconsequently 90

88 Astheautomobile 89 The First autostage lineruns through the canyon 1907 visitors toandfrom Estes Park. exclusive franchisetotransport in goodshapereturnforan Stanley offeredtoputtheroad Image source:DenverPublic Library Auto company transports4,000 visitors through thecanyon 1908 The River Image source:DenverPublic Library and theRoad —2-27 The Road

92 91 As a result 93 of this outstanding success, the five- passenger vehicles were replaced with nine- for…the Stanley Steamer was especially suited to mountain work,” enthused a journalist. In the span of just two years, the stage line had transitioned from 10 horse-drawn stagecoaches in 1906 to 10 Stanley Steamers by 1908. Estes Park from days to hours. from days Estes Park prevailing local wisdom. An Estes Park prevailing local “At that time, it was newspaper noted, would never thought that automobiles the mountains.…” be a success in However, the auto line soon co-opted the However, the auto travel time from stage route, reducing days to less than three as much as two O. Stanley got a piece of hours. And F. the the action after all, as he provided Stanley three five-passenger “touring” showing Steamers the company used, of the naysayers wrong. “The operation be hoped the cars proved all that could Image source: Library of Congress 1909 Commission is formed Colorado State Highway Automobiles were speedy and comfortable, reducing the trip to the reducing and comfortable, were speedy Automobiles Stanley Steamer “auto-buses” visitors were soon transporting right on the through the canyon “Devil’s edge and around water’s shown below. Curve,” 1909 Stanley Hotel is built in Estes Park and the Road and River River Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, #H01833 Museum of Discovery, Fort Collins Image source: 2-28 — The 2-28 The Road of “thebustypeautomobile.” companies toalsobeginmanufacture nation’s firstbusesandspurringother giving birthtowhatmayhavebeenthe expanded to12-passengerSteamers— passenger versions,whichinturnwere Estes Park. 4,000 passengersbetweenLovelandand Park AutoCompanyhadtransported August of1908,theLoveland-Estes near-misses throughout BigThompson on collisions,overturned cars,and accidents. By1915,reports ofhead- a newphenomenonrose withit—car increased withthegrowthoftourism, lane BigThompsonCanyonRoad As autotrafficalongthericketyone- through thecanyon. were running18StanleySteamers Company in1916,atwhichpointthey Rocky MountainParksTransportation the ownerssoldbusinessto 95 Nineyearsafterlaunching, 96 94 By Community ofDrake is established 1910 turned turtle”afterit “either skiddedor were injuredin1920“when theircar This wassoontochange. Sevenpeople to becomfortable.” becoming “toofrequent from EstesPark)were other routestoand Canyon (aswellas cars, hadbeenreported priorto1915. aside fromminorbruisesandtotaled accidents orinjuries, Luckily, noserious rounded blindcorners. in warningasdrivers honking hornsblown ring withthesoundof walls werereputedto lives.” Thecanyon escaped withtheir occupants “barely accidents inwhich “almost daily”of Reports werereceived between thetwotowns. transported 4,000passengers Park Auto Company had By 1908,the Loveland-Estes 97

Canyon road isimproved with convict labor 98

1912 The auto line soon co-opted The autolinesoon co-opted The River the stageroute. and theRoad —2-29 Image source:DenverPublic Library The Road County commissioners tried County to determine the amount of work necessary to widen and improve the road due to the immense amount of travel occurring. 1915 Car accidents become frequent in the canyon

103 Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public Meanwhile, the “Good Roads Movement” Meanwhile, the “Good Roads the had begun stirring throughout to country, surprisingly in response demands of bicyclists led specifically by the League of American Wheelmen, rather than automobile drivers. into the river to protect the retaining into the river to protect the retaining water walls” at 20 locations where the had washed over the roadway. 1915

is established 102 Rocky Mountain National Park Mountain National Park Rocky In an 101 and the Road and

River River With ominous prescience, With ominous 99 100 Rocks and logs were thrown into the river to protect retaining walls. to protect into the river were thrown and logs Rocks 2-30 — The 2-30 the brakes refused to work, and it was work, and it was refused to the brakes hill to prevent its falling turned up the the Big Thompson over the cliff into River.” attempt to address this issue, county attempt to address this issue, in commissioners traveled the canyon of work 1916 to ascertain the amount the necessary “to widen and improve of travel road for the immense amount to.” which the road is being subjected Although the county began making Although the county began making improvements to the Big Thompson Canyon Road, originally with the convict labor in 1912, by 1919 16 road remained a one-way track years after its completion. a newspaper article published just a newspaper article noted the increased one month prior served” in the “dangers to travelers “an open ditch or canyon, including in the unseen.” other danger lurking drivers to “Go on The writer exhorted is an the principle that the other [driver] idiot.” The Road likely A 1917 newspaper article noted, road with unintended irony, that the was “in very bad condition, although was safe.” The writer stated that “it necessary to throw large rocks and logs Image source:FortCollinsMuseumofDiscovery, #H01310 the early1900s. enthused ajournalistin suited tomountainwork,” Enos Mills, was “especially such asthisoneownedby The StanleySteamer, Rocky MountainNational Park “Modern Eve” ishiredtoroam 1916 economy. essential forthecountry’shealthand funding, arguingthatgoodroadswere throughout thecountry,aswell road improvementsandnewroads cycling clubsdemandedsignificant cyclists. Flexingtheirpoliticalclout, 1890s withanestimated2.5million the nation,reachingitspinnacleby had launchedacyclingcrazethatswept Expansion ofthecountry’sroadsystem 104 TheforemostGoodRoads Stanley Steamers throughthecanyon Transportation company runs18 1916 The road remained a one-way track The roadremained aone-way tight.” as “horse-high,bull-strong,andpig- by SouthernGoodRoadsMagazine roadway federalaidplandescribed House ofRepresentativespasseda country’s roads.In1916,theU.S. for federalfundingtoimprovethe in increasedpressurebythe1910s a nationalpassionfortravel,resulting the riseinautomobileuseawakened Roads Movementgainedmomentumas state andlocalresponsibility.TheGood prevailing weather—wereseenasa muddy ordustytrailsdependingonthe — acknowledgedaslittlemorethan Since themiddle1800s,America’sroads found.” be connectedbyasgoodroadscan land, ourcities,towns,andvillagesshall live toseethetimewhenalloverour world, andalwayshavebeen.Ihopeto are amongtheworstincivilized advocate proclaimed,“Americanroads involvement ofthefederalgovernment Road Actin1916,thefirstlarge-scale “ardent motorist,”signedtheFederalAid debate, PresidentWilson,himselfan revision andconsiderableCongressional and theSenatebalked.Afterheavy 106 105 16 yearsafteritscompletion. However,noteveryoneagreed,

The River and theRoad —2-31 The Road

110 In response, In response, 107

Meanwhile, the need 108 109 The timing of these changes was The timing of these auspicious. In November of 1917, County the Larimer County Board of Commissioners passed a resolution asking the State Highway Commission Road, to “take over the Big Thompson and the the main road into Estes Park, new main road into Rocky Mountain National Park.” The county’s appeal proved portentous. One year later, “terrific torrents” Colorado created the State Highway Colorado created 1917 and reorganized its Department in Commission (originally State Highway Under the Federal Aid formed in 1909). received more than Road Act, the state projects between $6 million for roadway 1916 and 1921. for repairs remained constant, and in for repairs remained constant, November of 1918, Larimer County requested $8,000 from the State and Highway Commission for improving repairing the Big Thompson Road. in nationwide road building. The act The building. road in nationwide establish a state each state to required all agency. Furthermore, highway be toll-free and roads had to improved by the state. maintained 1916 Act is enacted Federal Aid Road Federal Aid Road Image source: Wikimedia Commons 1916 The bicycling craze swept the craze swept the bicycling The 2.5 million country, with leading cyclists in the 1890s, the “Good to establishmenet of movement. Roads” to improve the canyon road Larimer County evaluates need Image source: Boston Public Library Image source: Boston Public and the Road and River River Image source: Wikimedia Commons 2-32 — The 2-32 The Road Expansion of the country’s road system launched a cycling craze throughout the nation. road whererockslideshadoccurred. the ForksHotelinDrake,clearing worked theirwaydownthecanyonto labor, andresidentsfromEstesPark stranded touristsvolunteeredtheirown trapped inthecanyon.Manyof a temporarystructuretofreepeople 40 men,workedfranticallytocomplete officials, aswellacrewofaround washed asfarawayLoveland.County to collapseintotheriver.Debriswas that snappedintheflood,causingit framed structuresupportedbycables The bridgehadbeenasimplewood- rockslides andthedemolishedbridge. in BigThompsonCanyonbetween No. 3,strandingnearly500people July 31,1919,washedoutBridge that fellwithinaveryshorttimeon car waspermitted came whenthefirst The greatestoutburst for alongdistance…. [that] couldbeheard out amightycheer... trapped tourists“let following evening,the Upon liberationthe Since themid-1800s,America’s roadswereacknowledgedaslittlemorethanmuddyordustytrails. development ofnewroads. significant roadimprovementsand American Wheelmen demanded Cycling clubslikethe League of Colorado receives $6million 111 for roadprojects

1916-1921 Colorado’s StateHighway Department isformed 1917 The River and theRoad —2-33 Image source:WikimediaCommons The Road Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public in nationwide road building. 1918 County requests road improvement funds from state Commission created an “account Commission created an “account to contract” and awarded the work Dolling Brothers, Crook & Hoffman. of Loveland Work began a few miles west miles of and extended to within five Estes Park, as sections of road directly 1917 113 of the canyon road to the state Larimer County requests transfer The Federal Aid Road Act was the first large-scaleThe Federal Aid Road federal government involvement of the President Wilson, shown here shown here Wilson, President Hotel, Palace brown leaving Denver’s signed motorist” and was an “ardent Act in 1916. Road Aid Federal the and the Road and

River River The road 112 This 115 114 2-34 — The 2-34 was to be 24 feet pass at wide so that motorists could any point. Twice, bids were solicited winter to improve the road during the season to avoid interference with were summer tourist travel, but none received. As a result, the Highway effort marked the start of Colorado’s ninth Federal Aid project. A journalist reporting on the flood noted, “more damage by has been done the cloudbursts Estes Park than at any in the vicinity of more than 25 years.” previous time in Shortly thereafter, the road was Shortly thereafter, the road was to closed in September of 1919 and begin significant improvements bridge” construction of a “fine concrete to replace the hastily-constructed neither temporary structure that was a “work of art [nor] built for permanent wear.” to cross.” The Road materials, builttosuitaspecificenvironment. simple andrelativelycrudelymadewithreadilyavailablelocal West (1850-1890)wererooted innecessity. Thesebuildingswere than thisimagemightsuggest,theearlycabinsofAmerican into thefolkloreofMountainWest. Whilelifewasharder fishslungovertheirshoulders, isdeeplyinterwoven fresh-caught after aharddayofworktocozylogcabin,perhapswithlines The imageofearlysettlersintheRocky Mountainscominghome emergence ofcabincamps,motorcourts,andmotels. demonstrated intheuseof“Rustic” architecturalstyleandthe of thebuildingswithincanyontodayreflectthesetrends, over ensuingdecades,spurredincreasingdevelopment.Many the early1900s,followedbyrapidriseofautomobiletourism Road”) in Thompson Canyon(originallyreferredtoas“Riley’s retreating intonature.CompletionoftheroadthroughBig and settlementinthecanyonbeganfocusingonrecreation itself. Asmorepeopleflocked totheRocky Mountains,activities often fromlocalmaterials,suchaslogsharvestedthecanyon in themidtolate1800sandbuiltsmall,functionalproperties, Thompson Canyonandproximitytowater, settledinthecanyon homesteaders andranchers,attractedbythebeautyofBig a tourofthearchitecturalhistoryMountainWest. Early In manyways,adrivethroughtheBigThompsonCanyonis with localmaterials,suchasriverstones andlogs,are stresses carefulcraftsmanship.Buildings areusuallyconstructed The Rustic Styleembracessimplicity andnaturalistdesign,yet and soughttoevoke thegreatandunsettledAmericanWest. the structuresbuiltbyearlypioneers,emergedfromthisdesire modernity ofthe1900s.Rustic Stylearchitecture,whichmimicked that theWest wasstillwildanduntamedbytheincreasing they soughtthesolitudeofnature.Thesebuildingsdemonstrated buildings thatreflectedtheAmericanwilderness,especiallywhere became morepopulated,peopleresonatedwithimagesand Key ArchitecturalStyles Rustic Style(1900-1960) 158 AstheWest Stanley’s brotherdies Stanley’s in caraccident 1918 framed windowsanddoors. the buildingfromsnow;multi-panedwindows;aswellwood- foundations; exposedrafters;overhanginggableroofstoprotect boards tocreateexternalandinternalornamentation;stone external stonechimneys;twistedlogs,branches,andwooden at theendsorfastenedwithverticalwoodpostscorners; characterized bysolidhewnandun-hewnlogsthatarenotched and theRocky MountainRegion, Rustic Stylebuildingsare depending onlocalsurroundings. designed toblendintonaturalsettings.Materialsvaried Rustic StyleintheBigThompsonCanyon Rustic Styleinthe BigThompsonCanyon:Rustic RiverCabins Introduction toArchitecture in theBigThompsonCanyon 160

159 IntheBigThompsonCanyon strands 500 inthecanyon Bridge No. 3washesout, 1919 emergence ofrecreationalroadsidecamping. Canyon isdirectlytraceabletotheriseofautotourismand of Americaatthetime,roadsidelodginginBigThompson 1940s, andlaterintoroadsidemotelsinthe1950s.Like much cabin campsgraduallyevolvedintomotorcourtsinthe1930sand automobile. style, enjoyingtheinformalityandfreshairoftravelingby caravan Early travelerscampedalongroadwaysinfree-wheeling existing smallruraloutbuildings,like shedsandchicken coops, architecturally primitive.Somecamp ownersminimallyadapted The firstcabincampsthatappeared in the1920swere previously hadbeenonlyavailabletothewealthy. for recreationalpurposes,andwerevacationinginawaythat class Americansweremovingacrossthelandscape,especially or hadtheabilitytohire,anautomobile.Average, middle- every partofAmerica.Bythe1920s,manypeopleeitherowned, newroadstoseeandexperience adventurers tooktothecountry’s necessary, facetofAmericanlife.Inthe1910s,earlyautomobile automobiles quicklybecameanimportant,andincreasingly smelly contraptionsthatwerenomorethanapassingwhim, automobile andtheopenroad.Onceviewedbysomeasloud, America hashadalongandintenseloveaffairwiththe small cabinsandbungalowsfornightlyweeklystays. camping equipment.Enterprisingbusinessownersbeganbuilding that freedthemfromtherigorsofpackingandunpacking discovered thatmanyautotouristswouldpayforaccommodations owners,whotraditionallyrentedtentspace, private auto-camp 1910s. AfterthecloseofWorld War Iandwellintothe1920s, and laterpaid,autocampsemergedthroughoutAmericainthe growing autotourismphenomenon,formalcampinginfree, Roadside LodgingandArchitecture 162 Recognizing aneedtoaccommodatetheever- The Cabin Camps (1920-1930) (1920-1960) River and theRoad —2-35 continued onnextpage... 161

163 The These Road Although 171 Text and images: Centennial Archaeology Text See It in the Canyon Motor Court: Loveland Heights televisions, heated swimming pools, tiled bathrooms, easy chairs, tiled bathrooms, easy chairs, swimming pools, televisions, heated and air conditioning. mattresses, 24-hour diners, comfortable by more economical deluxe cabins were replaced Individual and and singular plumbing that shared one foundation inline rooms designs became more practical, and electrical systems. Overall individual porticos or awnings like yet small architectural details, an illusion of separate spaces. The term over each room, created elaborate and highly visible neon “motel,” emphasized with and a new age of travel. signs, indicated modernity The Loveland Heights Cottages on the River, Canyon Cottages, on the River, The Loveland Heights Cottages and Cabins are the best examples of motor and Fireside RV Park highlight courts in the Big Thompson Canyon. These complexes drives providing the importance of the automobile, such as central Landscaped common easy access to cabins and adjacent parking. and Cabins between the areas are featured at Fireside RV Park sign highlights main office and US 34, and a large and inviting Buildings amenities at Loveland Heights Cottages on the River. demonstrating curb at all three motor courts face the roadway, appeal and convenience, such as in-suite modern amenities. The create a cabins’ proximity to each other and shared aesthetics unified pattern and look. motels continued evolving in the 1960s, blurring the line between motels continued evolving within the Big Thompson Canyon motel and hotel, architecture unchanged from the 1950s. has remained essentially By the end of 169 1919 (1930-1950) By the end of the decade, motor courts Significant improvements 170 begin on the canyon road Motor courts also had semi-circular drives 167 Large, elaborate signs advertised the modernity Large, elaborate signs advertised the modernity 168 Motor Courts and the Rise of the Motel Motor Courts and the Cabin Camp/Motor Court: Whispering Pines Motel Whispering Pines Cabin Camp/Motor Court: that provided tourists with easy access to their rooms from the that provided tourists with easy access to their rooms area with lush central office, and typically highlighted a common landscaping. — perhaps the most common type of tourist-focused architecture — perhaps the most common type of tourist-focused hold of the nation as in the Big Thompson Canyon — had taken they peppered national and state highways. (the The shift from the 1940s motor courts to the motels “motorist’s hotel”) of the 1950s simply continued the trend their motor court that motor courts had started. Motels, like such as predecessors, offered additional services and amenities, nostalgic architecture indicative of regional trends, specifically trends, specifically indicative of regional nostalgic architecture Mountains. in the Rocky cabins and cottages By the close of the 1930s, cabin camps had evolved into more By the close of the 1930s, cabin camps had evolved sophisticated, full-serviced motor courts that accentuated the offered convenient were importance of the automobile. Tourists or in parking next to their individual rooms, under carports, where garages. Motor courts presented standardized layouts often perpendicular to the units were placed closer together, road in a U-shape. of motor courts, promoting running hot and cold water, in-suite water, of motor courts, promoting running hot and cold flush toilets, showers and tubs, restaurants, air-conditioning, swimming pools, and other modern amenities. the 1940s, motor courts had reinvigorated the American public, the 1940s, motor courts had reinvigorated the American road after the especially the rising middle class, ready to hit the II. War close of World 165 and the Road and New, purpose-built cabins were usually New, See It in the Canyon 164 River River Cabin units became more structurally unified and Cabin units became more structurally unified and 166 constructed quickly with a few heavy wooden planks nailed with a few heavy constructed quickly small Some early camps offered a rough shelter. together to form community showers, and kitchens. amenities, such as mattresses, common than not for guests to rent a crude, it was more However, of be given a bucket building with no furnishings, and to box-like for cooking and washing. water from an outside hydrant The Whispering Pines Motel is the best remaining example of a The Whispering Pines the Big late cabin camp (bordering on a motor court) in with bright blue Thompson Canyon. Crisp white paint contrasting cabins trim accentuates the office building and quaint, small at the western adorned with wreaths and window boxes. Located of Estes Park, end of the canyon approximately three miles east better this complex displays homey qualities, neat exteriors, Great construction than the crude camps built before the and display the Depression, and units that are structurally unified As the 1930s and the Great Depression wore on, it proved more As the 1930s and the Great to offer additional services and guest profitable for camp owners more elaborate and offered small amenities. Cabins became with straw-stuffedfurnishings, such as beds a couple mattresses, pitcher and bowl, and possibly a of benches, a table, a water coin-operated Cabins themselves were cleaner cooking plate. camp sturdier materials. Gradually, and better constructed with with all the comforts of home — owners began luring travelers electricity, hot showers from the community bathhouse, bedding, well-groomed and home-cooked landscaping, family- meals from enticing run diners and cafes. Savvy business owners added window homey qualities, such as clean paint, charming shutters, with playground boxes with flowers, and a central lawn complete seen from equipment, ensuring that such amenities could be the road. to house campers. Such cabins were little more than wooden little more than wooden Such cabins were to house campers. floors. tents with dirt demonstrated quaint and nostalgic architecture that played off demonstrated quaint and nostalgic architecture that Style. Because many of the Rustic regional trends and themes like built nearly the cabin camps in the Big Thompson Canyon were many are no 100 years ago (1920s -1930s) and were very basic, in the 1940s. longer standing or were converted to motor courts 2-36 — The 2-36 The Road an oratorgrandiloquently declared,“I the officialopeningof theroadin1920, During ceremoniescommemorating and handlingatseven centsperpound. project proponentshadtopayfreight Although theTNTwasprovidedforfree, blast 100,000yardsofdirtandrock. World WarI,whichwasusedto 110 to125tonsofTNTleftoverfrom curves. Thefederalgovernmentdonated eliminating someofthemoredangerous surveyed anddesigned,whichincluded solid rocktocompletetheprojectas Work crewsblastednearly20milesof improvements by summer. to complete20milesof years —toallowworkmen the areahadexperiencedin — oneoftheworstwinters the winterof1919/1920 existed. Theroadclosurelastedthrough adjacent tothosetwotownsalready could notbedone.” accomplished…after itwassaidthejob most difficultroadbuildinghadbeen the projectafter“ninemonthsof few weather-relateddelays,completed labored throughthewinterwithvery as US36). Canyons (generallytheroutenowknown via theNorthandSouthSt.Vrain had toaccessEstesPark During theclosure,travelers 117 Roughly200men,who 118

116

canyon, duringafloodin1919. Hotel inDrake, aboutmidwaydownthe Many touristswerestrandedatthe Forks blossoms thantobuild thebiggest bees hummingprosperity overthealfalfa the kissofsummer sunandthe doors, thefieldsturning goldenunder road withchildrenplayingaroundthe cottages springingupbythesideof would ratherseeroadsbuilded[sic]and Improved road opens The roadwasclosedinSeptember1919 tobeginsignificant Image source:DenverPublic Library 1920 improvements andbridgeconstruction. The River and theRoad —2-37 The Road Image source: Denver Public Library Denver Public Image source: Road improvements along Road River were Thompson the Big conducted during one of the worst winters the area had experienced in years.

127

124

1920 125 improved road The opening ceremony High waters endanger 126 These amounts totaled just over the $311,636 noted for this project by the Colorado Department of Transportation in a historical publication produced in 2002. featured state and local officials, as featured state and local officials, well as the contractors and booster delegations from local communities. The project was touted as a major feat The vastly improved Big Thompson Canyon Road opened on May official 30, 1920, which marked the Highway transfer of the road to the State Department. dollars (the year the road (the year the road dollars reopened was permanently flood). In after the 2013 State April of 1920, the Highway Commission appropriated $50,000 to rebuild the bridge in that was destroyed pave 1919, as well as canyon two miles of the road where it extended north from Loveland.

119 123 Upon the 121

Engineering 122 120 and the Road and

River River

would be complete by summer. be complete would Road crews worked over the winter so improvements so improvements over the winter crews worked Road 2-38 — The 2-38 road’s opening in 1920, a journalist road’s opening in 1920, a journalist part of noted, “inasmuch as the greater rock, it is [the road] was cut out of solid practically a rock bed.” battleship ever constructed since the since the ever constructed battleship in the morning.” stars sang together designs resulted in around 27 river designs resulted in around 27 could realignments to ensure the road Prior to more easily run alongside it. as steep completion, the road grade was the as 12.5 percent. After construction, percent steepest grade was roughly 7 as “the along the half-mile referred to In rapids” (presumably the Narrows). a grade many cases, the new road had areas of 4 percent, although in some it was as flat is 1 percent. According to newspaper accounts, According to newspaper accounts, these improvements cost $270,000 Descending 2,160 feet in approximately Descending 2,160 road followed 20 miles, the improved River through the Big Thompson length, crossing the canyon’s entire The canyon was the river six times. 100 to 500 feet wide; in approximately there was only room for several places, the river and the road. The Road — approximately $2.5 million in 2018 Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity Community ofCedar Cove isestablished 1920 7 percent. the road;steepestgradewas realignments toaccommodate improvements included27river Shown herein1926,road Ownership oftheroad wastransferredtothe Rocky MountainNational Park Quarter million peoplevisit 1920 State HighwayDepartment in1920. — withtherestofColorado. federal playgroundintheUnitedStates” National Park—“themostpopular country,” linkingRockyMountain to bethebestmountainroadin and functional. was avertedandtheroadremainedopen being destroyed.Ultimately,thedisaster and amunicipaldamwasindangerof one bridgewasatriskofwashingout, reached theroadintwoplaces.Atleast again threatenedtheroad.Waterlevels rapid snowmeltinthemountainsonce opening —highwaterscausedby — just10daysaftertheroad’sgrand Despite thefanfare,onJune9,1920 proof aspossible.” ordinary prairieroadandasnearfool The roadwassaidtobe“assafeasthe new epochinthehistoryofEstesPark. of engineeringandthedawninga per hour. confidently atspeedsof20to25miles pace forfearofhislife”couldnowdrive motorist who“creptalongatasnail’s 129 Theroadwas“considered The 131 River

128 Evena“timid” and theRoad —2-39 130

The Road

135

134 The improved road was received with The improved road was received Estes unabashed enthusiasm. A 1920 “Only Park newspaper article professed, a few years ago it was a long day’s The rise in automobile tourism The rise in automobile tourism dramatically increased the development inns, of recreational cabins, motor tourist shops, picnic areas, and to campgrounds all along the “Gateway for the the Rockies” — the new moniker Canyon. Thompson Big the through road By 1920, automobiles had reduced Park the trip from Loveland to Estes to a matter of hours, with thousands canyon of people traveling through the unlike on weekends and holidays, not today’s weekend recreationists. dweller could even embark on a quick dweller could even or a short scenic drive weekend getaway on Sunday. Travelers to the mountains marvel at the could seek adventure, beauties, and escape the state’s natural of growing cities and rapid urbanization towns. tourists to travel with increased ease. increased to travel with tourists 1920s

Thousands of visitors travel through the canyon 132 Expansion of highways after World War I enticed I enticed War after World of highways Expansion The Colorado city 133 The redesigned Big The redesigned Road Thompson Canyon cusp of opened on the a remarkable decade, social one of dramatic that and political change would become known as the “Roaring 20s.” The country’s economy boomed, the nation’s wealth doubled, and many Americans had money to spend. The “most important consumer product” of this decade was the automobile. Low prices made cars “affordable luxuries” that quickly became necessities. By the end quickly became necessities. By car on of the decade, “there was one the road for every five Americans.” The expansion of state and national The expansion of state and national World highways following the end of with War I enticed tourists to travel increased ease. 1920s Roaring 20s era begins Roaring Image source: Library of Congress and the Road and River River The national economy The flourished in the 20s, and automobiles were “affordable luxuries” that became necessities. 2-40 — The 2-40 The Road than everbefore.” more carsinEstesParkthissummer Park….Unquestionably, therewillbe a finedoubletrackedboulevardtoEstes Canyon Roadthisspringgivesautoists done. TheopeningoftheBigThompson road building.Muchhasalreadybeen recognized todayinappropriationsfor importance oftheautomobileisbeing resort theautomobilehasmadeit.The would notbethepopularsummer the automobile,gushing,“EstesPark further expoundedontheblessingsof valley townstoEstesPark.”Thepaper journey withawagonandteamfromthe seems thattheyleannearer eachother so highandsheerthat itsometimes The cliffsidestowerover themotorists the gorgeandofitssplendidcoloring. of theunusualformationwalls Travelers arerapturousintheirpraise driven theBigThompsoncanon[sic]…. scenery atitszenithwhohasnot really claimtohaveseenColorado journalist declared,“Nomotoristcan 136 Similarly,another four generationsaresymbolicofLovelandanditspast. family whohaveownedandoperatedthecompanyfor zenith,thecolorfulstoreandLehnert the industry’s the CherryTree Standwasbuiltin1959towardtheendof and browsethearrayofjuices,jellies,pies.Although customers drivingalongUS34,summonpassersbytostop flower boxes,andcherryjuicejugshangingfromtherafters.Thesecheerful flourishes,alongwiththelargesignpositionedtoattract has beenatouristlandmarkfordecades,survivingboththe1976and2013 floods.Thebuildingbeckons withred-and-whitepaint, CherryTreeSituated justwestoftheNarrowsinBigThompsonCanyonalongUS 34,theColoradoCherryCompany’s Stand Thompson CanyontoEstesPark, whospreadherfamethroughoutthecountry. V.time, Mrs.A. Bensoninventedcherrycider, sellingglassfulsofitatastandnearherfarmtothirstytravelersventuringuptheBig Festival in1930,completewithaparade,contests,anddancingthestreets.ThecityevenelectedCherryQueen.Aroundsame boasted thelargestcherryorchardwestofMississippiRiver. ThecityhonoreditscelebratedfruitwithfirstCherryBlossom when 1.5millionpoundsofcherrieswereharvestedatavalue$85,000–roughly$1.4in2018figures.In1920,Loveland local obsession.By1915,Lovelandfarmershadplanted70acresofcherryorchards.Thisnumberexplodedto1,200by1918 plains. Butcherries?Morethanacenturyago,Mrs.NewtonJohnsonplantedLoveland’sfirstcherryorchardin1904andlaunched fruit,theymayconjureimagesofWest Slopepeachesorcantaloupesfromthesoutheastern When peoplethinkofColorado-grown orchards. are saidtoblame.CherryHillsEstates,OrchardsShoppingCenter, andHewlett-Packard nowoccupylandoncerepletewithcherry competition,andrampantlanddevelopment mania wasnottolast.By1970,theindustryhadgonebust.Blight,frost,out-of-state flourishing agriculturaleconomy. vestiges ofanindustrythatwasonce apillarofLoveland’s The ColoradoCherryTree Standremainsoneofthelast Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity 176 NotmuchremainsofColorado’sboomingcherryindustry–exceptthe Colorado CherryCompany. Plat commissioners subdivide land within thecanyon 1920s-1930s The ColoradoCherryCompanyStand 177

Despite the city’s loveaffairwithcherries,Loveland’scherry Despite thecity’s temporary workers duringthesummer. or another, justabouteverywomanandchildintown” as cherry industry“seemedtohaveemployed,atonetime Loveland’s landscape.Throughoutitsheyday, Loveland’s the localeconomy. $50,000 —alittleoverhalfmilliondollarsin2018to of cherryorchards,andthe1948harvestaddedover Fifteen yearslater, Lovelandclaimedroughly10,000acres 1940s. bakeries androadside standsalongUS34duringthe an astounding80to100cherrypieseverydayfromlocal in thenationalcherrypieevent.Tourists allegedlybought cherry piebakingcontestwonatriptoChicagocompete 172 174

By1950,nearly155,000cherrytreesgraced 173 The Thatsameyear, winnersofLoveland’s River Image source:CentennialArchaeology and theRoad —2-41 175

The Road

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138 the road remained less than perfect, as claimed by a journalist at the time: “The Big Thompson, noted for its spectacular beauty from one end of the country to the other, has never been quite wide enough for two automobiles to pass each other at all points along the road. Cut-outs are necessary, and a cut-out road is never conducive to quite the enjoyable riding as a road which spreads out sufficiently to all for easy passing.” Yet these drawbacks appear to Yet these drawbacks appear to have been subordinate to the splendors of the scenery. More However, despite the much-lauded However, despite and claims made during improvements in 1920 the road’s opening ceremony, roads in the state.” With a dig at the roads in the state.” the road’s original foibles surrounding added, “We owe its construction, he to the mistakes of early construction the foolishness of the several men, and first contractor.” 1930s transformed Colorado’s roads are

137 at the top. Many people who have never at the top. Many record sensations seen the mountains great piles tumble down of fear lest the upon them.” Writing about the road in 1922, Abner Writing about “At this time, 20 years Sprague noted, the Big Thompson after its inception, Loveland to Estes Canyon Road from Park is one of the finest mountain The improved road was received with unabashed enthusiasm. enthusiasm. with unabashed was received road The improved 1920s-1930s Recreation becomes Recreation popular in the canyon Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public and the Road and The canyon’s beauty enhanced canyon’s The the popularity of the drive Park. to Estes from Loveland River River Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public 2-42 — The 2-42 The Road Estes Park.Sweeping along underthe with theBigThompson CanyonRoadto is nodriveinAmerica thatcompares through themountain passes….There every case,[themotorist]cansail strongest carsarenomore….Inalmost enthusing, “Thegradesthattestedthe its ownasamotorist’sparadise,” noted thatColoradohad“comeinto Similarly, ajournalistwritingin1924 expended inseeing.” will notregreteitherthetimeoreffort places thatthosewhodomaketheeffort effort tosee—anditwillbeoneofthe the placesthateveryonewillmakean day tripsoutofDenver.Itwillbeone be oneofthemostpopularscenicone- the land….TheBigThompsonroadwill splendors ofanyautomobilehighwayin gorge thatembracesthegreatestscenic because itisthisnarrowbottle-neck being giventotheBigThompsonroad West. Especialcareandattentionare of themostperfecthighwaysin canon [sic]willbethreadedwithone far distant,whentheBigThompson is coming,however,andthatnotvery prophetically, shecontinued,“Theday 140

Relief programimproves the canyon road 1930s Image source:WikimediaCommons Colorado had “come into its own as a motorist’s paradise.” Colorado had“come intoitsownasamotorist’s Image source:Jacobs and theroad. sprang upalongtheriver areas, andcampgrounds inns, touristshops,picnic Recreational cabins,motor State prepares emergency highway budget 1932 Image source:HistoryColorado The River and theRoad —2-43 The Road

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145 attention to safety, particularly to roads attention to safety, particularly where through the Rocky Mountains, and designs featured wider roadways and curves, longer sight distances, percent. grades rarely exceeding 5 or 6 Yet working in Colorado’s Rocky Yet working in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains was not cheap. Blasting of a a road through the solid granite between canyon was estimated to cost per mile in $25,000 to $130,000 or more the 1930s. 1937 Canyon road is improved Despite 142 During this time, 143 141 state highway engineers paid greater state highway engineers paid As the decade wound down, the As the decade extravagance of the exuberance and to a halt. The 1920s soon ground saw the nation and the ensuing years in the devastating state embroiled Depression. Yet effects of the Great for the downturn had an upside Colorado. “The 1930s is remembered for as a decade of transformation Colorado’s roads” when the state fueled “went on a road-building binge by federal work programs.” magnificent canyon walls, around easy walls, around easy canyon magnificent as sure and firm on a roadbed curves, as any pavement….[The and smooth and he is enjoying motorist] is coming, it.” the Depression, tourism continued to the Depression, tourism continued bringing support the state’s economy, year. in an estimated $1 million per mountain Recognizing the importance of the routes to Colorado’s economy, federal state Highway Department and several work relief programs undertook in the mountain construction projects Big 1930s, including the route through Thompson Canyon. The 1930s was a decade of transformation for Colorado’s roads. The 1930s was a decade of transformation for Colorado’s 1936 Canyon road closes for new construction and the Road and Engineers designing mountain Engineers when roads in the 1930s, Narrows was this photo of the with taken, focused on safety, curves. wider roadways and River River Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, #M36997 Image source: Fort Collins Museum of Discovery, 2-44 — The 2-44 The Road ledges inthecanyon. sharp turnsandremovedangerous employed tofurtherwidentheroad’s crews rangingfrom15to20menwere Big ThompsonRoad.Additionally,work $122,685 forunspecifiedworkonthe was concentrated.Thebudgetincluded from urbanareaswhereunemployment for theunemployed,particularlythose highway budgetin1932toprovidework The statepreparedanemergency paid 55centsanhour forworkwithin days aweek.Unskilled laborerswere program toiledtwofive-hour shiftssix 146 Workersinthis half milesofnewroad. winter of1936toconstructoneandone- Thompson Roadwasclosedduringthe road throughoutthe1930s.TheBig maintenance projectsoccurredonthe Other smallconstructionand four bridgeswerebuilt. Smith MountainPark) wasoiled,and and theLovelandPower Plant(Viestenz- portion oftheroadbetweenEstesPark cents anhourforallotherareas. a 50-mileradiusfromDenver,and50 Colorado-Big ThompsonWaterColorado-Big Diversion project iscompleted 1938-1948 148 149 In1937,the

147

in LarimerCounty. Highway No. 16(now US 34) Project 9-R-5 forState designs for Federal Aid Deparment in1936show the Colorado State Highway Plan andprofile sheetsfrom The River and theRoad —2-45 Image source:CDOT The Road Image source: CDOT archives, Denver archives, Image source: CDOT 1960-1970 Traffic through the Traffic canyon quadruples 154 populating the canyon with gas stations, populating the canyon with gas hotels. cider stands, restaurants, and to the People began crowding closer river. the uneventful for Ensuing decades were changes highway, with no known major to US 34 beyond regular maintenance. As speed limits on the road increased, Signage 152 The Big Thompson Big Thompson The became Road Canyon 1930s. 34 in the late US 1938 and opens US 34 is designated

153

150 Following a speech at the Following a speech 151 May 28, 1938, marked 1938, marked May 28, of the official opening US 34, which offered drivers “the grandeur far of a deep canyon more spectacular from than the route Lyons.” indicating the name change was placed indicating the name change was it could be along the route as rapidly as manufactured. Granby. The change was adopted at a adopted was change The Granby. in August and announced July meeting year. of that The opening of US 34 spurred further The opening of US 34 spurred canyon’s growth within the canyon. The to stores, beauty, coupled with proximity medical services, and other necessities Park, in nearby Loveland and Estes those lured retirees, commuters, and seeking a second home for weekend banks. retreats to the Big Thompson’s by Local entrepreneurs responded mouth of the canyon, Governor Teller mouth of the canyon, a three-foot key into a Ammons inserted an 18- giant padlock accompanied by renewed gun salute, thus signaling the on the flow of traffic through the canyon freshly designated highway. Despite the Depression, tourism continued to support the state’s economy. Despite the Depression, tourism continued to support and the Road and River River 2-46 — The 2-46 It was during this period that the Big that the period this during It was became US Canyon Road Thompson 1938, the 34. In April of Highway Association Colorado Highway Northern Engineer that State Highway requested recommend to the Charles D. Vail of State Highway American Association that oversaw Officials (the organization of highways at that the numbering The Highways 54 and 16 time) that State as part of US Highway be designated 54 entered Colorado 34. State Highway east of Wray and passed from Nebraska to Brush. State Highway through Akron Fort 16 began at Wiggins, west of Greeley, Morgan, and extended through Mountain Loveland, Estes Park, Rocky to National Park, and Road day. through thecanyononatypicalsummer than 9,000automobilestraveledUS34 between 1960and1970.By1976,more Big ThompsonCanyonquadrupled of hours.Tourismandtrafficinthe decreased fromhalfadaytocouple travel timefromLovelandtoEstesPark would soonprovecatastrophic. The canyon’s proclivityforflooding houses. residents, whooccupiedaround1,400 and approximately12,000part-time was hometo600full-timeresidents Just priortothe1976flood,canyon people tolivealongtheriver’sshores. and asenseofreclusion,luredmore Estes Park,coupledwithserenebeauty catastrophic. proclivity forfloodingwouldsoonprove development, andthecanyon’s increased traffic,growingresidential 1976 flood.Thiscombinationofgreatly least 12recordedtimespriortothe River floodedeasilyandoften—at despite thefactthatBigThompson primary accessroutestoEstesPark, 155 EasyproximitytoLovelandand 156 Theroadremainedoneofthe canyon on typical summerday 9,000 cars travel throughthe 1976 canyon drives. the Dietrichsrelocatedstoretoitscurrentlocation—entranceoneofstate’smostscenic version oftheshirt,whichdeclares“Helpingkidscuss(andgetawaywith it).” best-seller. Childrenenjoystoppingbytosay“Dam”— withoutthe “n,” ofcourse—givingrisetoanew peruse andpurchasejewelry, cabindécor, —a andofcourse,thestore’ssignature“DamShirt” Dam Storehavechangedwiththetimes,upto1,800peoplevisitestablishment everysummerdayto advice,whoseinsightprovedprescient.Although thetypesofitemssoldat evidently heededIzzy’s Olmsteads thatthesouvenirbusinesshadthrivedevenduringGreat Depression. LesandRoberta firstwholesalesouvenircompanies.Hetoldthe Brothers, foundedin1906asoneofthecountry’s Park toordersouvenirsfromIzzyMiller. Izzyhadbeensellingtrinkets sincethe1920sforBloom families. Dam.” TheBigDamwasallegedlythelocationoftwodifferentStores,startedby wooden shopnearthedamthatprovidedLoveland’swatersupply, commonlyreferredtoasthe“Big The firstDamStorewaslocatedonemiledownstreamfromitscurrentsite.Itstartedin1906asasmall, store’s locationhaschangedovertime,itssuccessbeensteadfastlytiedtoUS34. to come. area —anditshistoryremainwith theOlmsteadfamily, whohopetopreserveitslegacy formanyyears business intheLoveland the campgroundwasclosedin1977, thestore—saidtobefifth-oldest meaningful ways,particularlywhen it functionedasacommandcenterduringthe1976flood.Although In additiontogivingkidsthethrilloffauxcuss,storehasserved the communityinmore situated atthemouthofBigThompsonCanyon,hassurvivedformorethan100years. “Location, location,location.”ThatistheanswerLesOlmsteadprovidedwhenasked whytheDamStore, “tourist camp.” travelers. Rome and OmbraDietrichthenpurchasedthepropertyin1930withintentofcreatinga locationandconstructinganautocampfor expanded it,potentiallymovingitclosertothepresent-day 183 179

Thesurvivingstorewasobtainedsometimebetween1909and1929 byEdShaffer, wholikely 181 180

NottobedeterredwhenUS34wasreroutedintheearly1930s andbypassedthestore, 1,400 houses existinBig Thompson Canyon 1976 The DamStore Image source:Jacobs The store, LesandRoberta traveled toEstes surroundings. Soonafterpurchasingthe beauty oftheBigThompsonandits visitors upits40-footperchtoviewthe constructed theiconictowerthatdraws Dorothy Black.LaterthatyearLes Olmstead boughtitfromRay and since 1969,whenLesandRoberta owned andoperatedtheDamStore Olmstead familyhascontinuously both major20 alive throughtheGreatDepressionand That auspiciousmovehaskept thestore River 182

and theRoad —2-47 th centuryfloods.The 178 Althoughthe The Road , edited by David M. Wrobel and Patrick T. Long, pp. 271-289. University Press of Kansas, Lawrence, KS. of Kansas, Press pp. 271-289. University Long, T. and Patrick , edited by David M. Wrobel , edited by David M. Wrobel and Patrick T. Long. University Press of Kansas, Lawrence, KS. of Kansas, University Press Long. T. and Patrick , edited by David M. Wrobel Seeing and Being Seen: Tourism in the American West Seeing and Being Seen: Tourism in the American West .loveland.org/Loveland_History/. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/ 26. July Colorado History. 2014. Spanish-Speaking Mariano Medina built a fort. Reporter-Herald. .loveland.org/Loveland_History/; Jessen, Kenneth. .loveland.org/Loveland_History/. .loveland.org/Loveland_History/. .loveland.org/Loveland_History/. (6 volumes), edited by W. Andrefsky, Jr. Report submitted to National Park Service-Rocky Mountain Regional Office, by Service-Rocky Mountain Regional submitted to National Park Report Jr. Andrefsky, An Introduction to the Archaeology of Pinon Canyon, Southeastern Colorado (6 volumes), edited by W. (6 volumes), edited by W. Andrefsky, Jr. Report submitted to National Park Service-Rocky Mountain Regional Office, by Office, Service-Rocky Mountain Regional Park submitted to National Report Jr. Andrefsky, Colorado (6 volumes), edited by W. An Introduction to the Archaeology of Pinon Canyon, Southeastern Project Gutenberg. Electronic document, https://www.gutenberg.org/files/755/755-h/755-h.htm. https://www.gutenberg.org/files/755/755-h/755-h.htm. Electronic document, Gutenberg. Project .loveland.org/Loveland_Timeline/. ark. Arcadia Publishing, Charleston, South Carolina; Benson, Laurel and Debra Benson Faulkner. 2012. Images of American: Loveland. Arcadia Publishing, Charleston. 2012. Images of American: Loveland. 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Project the Rocky Life in River River ickering, Historian laureate, Town of Estes Park. 2016. History of the Town of Estes Park. https://www.visitestespark.com/estes-park-centennial/estes-park-history/. of Estes Park. 2016. History of the Town of Estes Park. Historian laureate, Town ickering, ress of Colorado. 1997. ress of Colorado. 1997. ress of Colorado. 1997. ress of Colorado. 1997. atricia Nelson. 2001. Seeing and Being Seen: Tourism in the American West. In in the American West. atricia Nelson. 2001. Seeing and Being Seen: Tourism ickering, Historian laureate, Town of Estes Park. 2016. History of the Town of Estes Park. https://www.visitestespark.com/estes-park-centennial/estes-park-history/. of Estes Park. 2016. History of the Town of Estes Park. Historian laureate, Town ickering, eter. 2001. Selling the Scenery: Advertising and the National Parks, 1916-1933. In 2001. Selling the Scenery: Advertising and the National Parks, eter. ark Service. 2016. Enos Mills. April 28. https://home1.nps.gov/bestideapeople/mills.html. https://home1.nps.gov/bestideapeople/mills.html. ark Service. 2016. Enos Mills. April 28. ., F. Ross. 1971. Ross. ., F. 1971. Ross. ., F. ., F. Ross. 1971. Ross. ., F. enneth. 2014. Spanish-Speaking Mariano Medina built a fort. Reporter-Herald. Colorado History. July 26. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/colorado-history/ci_26212766/spanish-speaking-mariano-medina-buildt-fort. July 26. Colorado History. enneth. 2014. Spanish-Speaking Reporter-Herald. Mariano Medina built a fort. enneth. 2018. David Barnes founded Loveland. Reporter-Herald Colorado History. January 1. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/colorado-history/ci_31567657/david-barnes-founded-loveland. January 1. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/colorado-history/ci_31567657/david-barnes-founded-loveland. Colorado History. enneth. 2018. David Barnes founded Loveland. Reporter-Herald ark Visitor Center. 2017. 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Colorado State Roads ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. ransportation. 2002. esource Experts. 2002. Final Highways to the Sky: A Context and History of Colorado’s Highway System. https://www.codot.gov/programs/environmental/archaeology-and-history/highways-to-the-sky/highwaystothesky.pdf. History of Colorado’s Highway System. esource Experts. 2002. Final Highways to the Sky: A Context and . 1938. State Highways 54 and 16 to Change to U.S. Highway 34. 31 August:1. . 1938. State Highways 54 and 16 to Change to U.S. . 1932. Moffat County Gets Only One Project from Unemployment Fund for State Highway Construction. 24 August:1. for State Highway from Unemployment Fund . 1932. Moffat County Gets Only One Project First. 11 August:2. . 1937. Big Thompson Oiling Job to be Completed by September . 1920. Editorial: The New Road Up the Big Thompson. 1 June:2. Up . 1920. Editorial: The New Road Colorado. . 1920. Booster Delegation to See Dedication. 19 May:6. Fort Collins, the Big Thompson. 1 June:2. Up . 1920. Editorial: The New Road the Big Thompson. 1 June:2 Up . 1920. Editorial: The New Road Opening May 30. 17 May:5. . 1920. Big Thompson Road . 1920. $50,000 More for the Big Thompson Road. 26 April:1. Fort Collins, Colorado. . 1920. $50,000 More for the Big Thompson Road. . 1920. Beautiful Canon Driveway Officially Opened Sunday. 1 June:8. Fort Collins, Colorado. 1 June:8. Fort Collins, Officially Opened Sunday. . 1920. Beautiful Canon Driveway Colorado. 1 June:8. Fort Collins, Officially Opened Sunday. . 1920. Beautiful Canon Driveway Colorado. 1 June:8. Fort Collins, Officially Opened Sunday. . 1920. Beautiful Canon Driveway Fort Collins, Colorado. Opening May 30. 17 May:5. . 1920. Big Thompson Road Colorado. 1 June:8. Fort Collins, Officially Opened Sunday. . 1920. Beautiful Canon Driveway . 1919. 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High Water eporter. eporter. 1918. County Asks $54,000 From State for Roads. 25 November:1. State for Roads. $54,000 From 1918. County Asks eporter. .B., J.D. Nelson, E.R. Reiter, and R.L. Barkau. 1978. Flood of 31 July 1976 in Big Thompson Canyon, Colorado. Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO. and R.L. in Big Thompson Canyon, Colorado. Colorado State University, 1978. Flood of 31 July 1976 Barkau. Nelson, E.R. Reiter, .B., J.D. enneth. 2013. Big Thompson Canyon’s first road built in 1903-04. Reporter-Herald. September 22. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/colorado-history/ci_24136918/big-thompson-canyons-first-road-built-1903-04. September 22. 1903-04. Reporter-Herald. first road built in enneth. 2013. Big Thompson Canyon’s enneth. 2013. Rebuilding U.S. 34 — again. Reporter-Herald. September 20. http://www.reporterherald.com/columnists/colorado-history/ci_24136867/rebuilding-u-s-34-again. September 20. again. Reporter-Herald. 34 — U.S. enneth. 2013. 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LovelandR LovelandR LovelandR TheGreeleyT LovelandR LovelandR ColoradoCherryCompany Benes,Jessica.2013.LovelandwillCheerCherryP Lowe,Olivia.2016.Loveland’sCherryIndustry Browning-Blas,Kristen.2011.LovelandCelebratesitsP Lowe,Olivia.2016.Loveland’sCherryIndustry Bomberger ColoradoHistoricalSociety McAlester Centennial Archaeology Gruntfest,Eve.1987.WhatwehavelearnedsincetheBigThompsonFlood:P Lowe,Olivia.2016.Loveland’sCherryIndustry VintageR Henderson,Lori.2009.America Belasco,W VintageR Henderson,Lori.2009.America Belasco,W W Belasco,W Henderson,Lori.2009.America Mark,Stephen.1998.SavetheAutoCamps!http://www Mark,Stephen.1998.SavetheAutoCamps!http://www bloom-brothers/Default.aspx. www.visitlovelandco.org/top-10-reasons-expand-rocky-mountain-national-park-vacation-loveland-summer/. 2001.The Waterways PhotographDatabaseAssociatedwithLarimerCounty Water History. http://history.fcgov.com/waterways/results; VisitLoveland.2015.Top 10Reasons toExpandYour Rocky MountainNationalPark Vacation ThroughLovelandthisSummer. https:// http://www.estesparknews.com/events/article_974f6358-7835-11e5-83f3-1b33d8b35ee1.html. The FencePost. April14. https://www.thefencepost.com/news/pie-festival-celebrates-lovelands-cherry-lore/. September 19.https://www.denverpost.com/2013/09/19/big-thompson-flood-still--worst/. thefencepost.com/news/pie-festival-celebrates-lovelands-cherry-lore/. Celebrates itsPast withCherryPies. https://www.denverpost.com/2011/07/25/loveland-celebrates-its-past-with-cherry-pies/. LovelandMuseum.2014.MuseumHostsCherryPie CelebrationonJuly16. https://www.lovelandmuseumgallery.org/cherry-pie-2016-news/;www.thefencepost.com/news/pie-festival-celebrates-lovelands-cherry-lore/; Browning-Blas,Kristen.2011.Loveland 2016b. SummitAdventureTrail. http://www.cityofloveland.org/departments/parks-recreation/recreation-trails/summit-adventure-trail. Trail (#969).https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/recreation/recarea/?recid=36845&actid=51. CityofLoveland.2016a.FoothillsNatureTrail. CityofLoveland. http://www.cityofloveland.org/departments/parks-recreation/recreation-trails/foothills-nature-trail. McComb, David.1975-1985.DavidMcCombBigThompsonFloodCollection.ColoradoStateUniversity. https://lib2.colostate.edu/archives/findingaids/water/wbtf.html#series4. ood, Andrew. 2017.TheRiseandFall oftheGreatAmericanMotel.https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/twilight-mom-and-pop-motel-180963895/. , VirginiaandLee.2009. oadside, LLC.2018.Rediscovering American’s Roadside! http://vintageroadside.com/motorcourts.aspx. oadside, LLC.2018.Rediscovering American’s Roadside! http://vintageroadside.com/motorcourts.aspx. arren James.1979.AmericansontheRoad: From AutocamptoMotel1910-1945.TheJohnHopkinsUniversityPress, Baltimore,MD. arren James.1979.AmericansontheRoad: From AutocamptoMotel1910-1945.TheJohnHopkinsUniversityPress, VintageRoadside, LLC.2018.Rediscovering Baltimore,MD; American’s Roadside! http://vintageroadside.com/motorcourts.aspx. arren James.1979.AmericansontheRoad: From AutocamptoMotel1910-1945.TheJohnHopkinsUniversityPress, Baltimore,MD. , BruceD. 2004.ThePreservation and Repair ofHistoricLogBuildings.ThePreservationArchitecture.Lyons Press, Guilford,CT; McAlester, VirginiaandLee.2009. eporter-Herald. Squire BooneVillage.n.d.BloomBrothers.https://www.squireboone.com/products/ 2009.DamStoreStrongforMoreThan100Years. May29. https://www.denverpost.com/2009/05/09/business-dam-store-strong-for-more-than-100-years/; eporter-Herald. MuseumsandLibrariesareTheWindowstoLarimerCountry. 2009.DamStoreStrongforMoreThan100Years. May29.ElectronicDocument,https://www.denverpost.com/2009/05/09/business-dam-store-strong-for-more-than-100-years/; eporter-Herald. EstesPark 2009.DamStoreStrongforMoreThan100Years. News.2015. EstesPark May29.https://www.denverpost.com/2009/05/09/business-dam-store-strong-for-more-than-100-years/; ArchivesNextMeetingonTheDamStore. Oct26. eporter-Herald. 2009.DamStoreStrongforMoreThan100Years. May29.https://www.denverpost.com/2009/05/09/business-dam-store-strong-for-more-than-100-years/. eporter-Herald. Best,Allen.2013.BigThompsonfloodstillColorado’sworst.TheDenverPost. 2009.DamStoreStrongforMoreThan100Years. May29. https://www.denverpost.com/2009/05/09/business-dam-store-strong-for-more-than-100-years/; ribune [Greeley, Colorado].1930.[Ed Shaffer runningforpoliticalofficeinGreeley]24March.Greeley, Colorado. . 2015.ClassIIICulturalResource InventoryoftheProposed Flood-Related Road Reconstruction Project alongU.S. Highway34fromLovelandtoEstesPark inLarimerCounty, ColoradoVolume I.December;U.S. ForestService.n.d.Round Mountain . n.d.AbouttheBusiness. https://www.coloradocherrycompany.com/about-us/. . 2006.DirectoryofRustic StyleArchitecture.http://legacy.historycolorado.org/sites/default/files/files/OAHP/crforms_edumat/pdfs/1642.pdf. ’s Roadside Lodging:TheRiseandFall oftheMotel.Historia.http://www.eiu.edu/historia/2010Henderson.pdf. ’s Roadside Lodging:TheRiseandFall oftheMotel.Historia.http://www.eiu.edu/historia/2010Henderson.pdf. ’s Roadside Lodging:TheRiseandFall oftheMotel.Historia.http://www.eiu.edu/historia/2010Henderson.pdf. A FieldGuidetoAmericanHouse , BeginningtoEnd. http://www.reporterherald.com/ci_30136195/lovelands-cherry-industry-beginning-end; Aughenbaugh,Anna.2006.Pie FestivalcelebratesLoveland’scherrylore.TheFencePost. April14. https://www. , BeginningtoEnd. http://www.reporterherald.com/ci_30136195/lovelands-cherry-industry-beginning-end. , BeginningtoEnd. http://www.reporterherald.com/ci_30136195/lovelands-cherry-industry-beginning-end; Aughenbaugh,Anna.2006.Pie FestivalcelebratesLoveland’scherrylore.TheFencePost. April14. https:// ie atAnnualCherryPie CelebrationonSaturday. Aughenbaugh,Anna.2006.Pie http://www.reporterherald.com/ci_23674009/loveland-will-cheer-cherry-pie-at-annual-cherry; FestivalcelebratesLoveland’scherrylore. ast withCherryPies. https://www.denverpost.com/2011/07/25/loveland-celebrates-its-past-with-cherry-pies/. .craterlakeinstitute.com/online-library/save-the-auto-camps/save-auto-camps.htm. .craterlakeinstitute.com/online-library/save-the-auto-camps/save-auto-camps.htm. . Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.,NewYork.. AlfredA. roceedings oftheTenth AnniversaryConference,July17-19,1986,Boulder, Colorado.January1. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.838.404&rep=rep1&type=pdf; A FieldGuidetoAmericanHouse The River . Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.,NewYork.. AlfredA. and theRoad —2-51 The Road and the Road and River River 2-52 — The 2-52 The Road The River and the Road – 3-1

1976Saturday, July 31: Colorado’s Centennial The rain started at 5:00 p.m. “Of course everyone wants to live by a river. We could fish out of the back door; it was pretty cool. Within a four-hour period, 14 inches would fall on the mountains Our bedroom was right there surrounding Big Thompson Canyon. By by the river, and at that time, I 9:00 p.m., the river would explode from enjoyed listening to the river as an average depth of 18 inches to a 20- we went to sleep. I can’t sleep by foot wall of water driving 10-foot-wide a river now.” boulders at its head.

Image source: Colorado State University Jeanne Perrine 69

Big Thompson Canyon was alive the normally placid river into “a raging people with activity, as thousands of people torrent of water 19 feet high.”1 More (including two state patrol officers celebrated the state’s 100-year birthday. than 400 vehicles, “many loaded with trying to evacuate people) and injured It was the height of tourist season, tourists or residents trying to outrun 250 more, destroyed 418 houses and a weekend evening as well — an the water,”2 were carried off US 34 and and 52 businesses, damaged 138 inauspicious combination that drew smashed into rocks and debris. As the houses, washed away much of US 34, both Colorado residents and visitors to death toll passed 100, the severity of the demolished the Big Thompson Siphon one of the state’s most beautiful and storm became horrendously apparent. (filled with water and weighing 989,000 accessible natural attractions. Eight Two hours after it started, Colorado’s pounds), and caused more than $35 inches of rain fell in one hour, turning deadliest recorded flood had killed 144 million in damages.3

72 Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public Terry Belair-Hassig Terry

71 “We her car being lifted watched We down the river. up and carried this point we should decided at been had never We climb higher. night.” as cold as we were that July 31, 6:30 p.m. Estes Park and Drake Estes Park

73 Rains become heavy between Rains Jeanne Perrine Perrine Jeanne “Gordon (Kindred) had pulled around to pick “Gordon (Kindred) he got the car up his wife and aunt. When They were gone.” pulled around, it was gone. Image source: Colorado State University

70 most powerful flood since glaciers retreated. most powerful flood since light rain falls July 31, 5:00 p.m. Massive clouds form, Clouds that were piled 12 miles into the sky set off the Clouds that were piled 12

4 and the Road and River River The 3-2 — Cell phones, home computers, and the and computers, home phones, Cell concepts to were futuristic internet The primary mode in 1976. most people the landline was of communication non-existent, Voicemail was telephone. machines did and physical answering until the middle not become popular Apple computer 1980s. The fledgling two-man startup at company, a mere its first personal the time, released was basically just computer, which The “cutting-edge” a circuit board. technology of the 1970s communication by short-distance, two- was exemplified way Citizens Band (CB) radios, embraced primarily by truckers and similarly aficionados. Meteorology was Doppler primitive by today’s standards. radar, which tracks storm movements, was not available until the 1990s. relied on Instead, weather forecasters images crude black-and-white satellite minutes. that downloaded only every 30 Official weather stations or stream the Big gauges were notably absent in Thompson Canyon. 1976 Flood an It was under this scenario that were estimated 3,500 to 4,000 people July 31, in Big Thompson Canyon on 1976, most of them escaping the heat of middle ofit.Ican’t getout...” “I’m stuck.I’m rightinthe visitors andresidents celebrated thestate’scentennial. company picnics.The moodwasparticularlyfestivethatdayas met friendsfordinner inEstesPark,andsomeenjoyed their summerhomes. Some peopleattendedweddings,some campgrounds werefull,andpart-timeresidents wereenjoying scenic highwaytoRockyMountainNational Park.Hotelsand and day-trippersenjoyingtheriver’sbeauty anddrivingthe weekend inColorado,thecanyonwaspacked withvacationers chance ofshowersandthunderstorms.Like anysummer for aColoradosummerday,calling40 to50percent Colorado State Patrol Sgt. last radiotransmission Willis Hugh Purdy’s Approximately 4,000peoplewereinthecanyon. 76

and friends.Theforecastwastypical and relaxbytheriverwithfamily Front Rangecitiestohike,fish,camp, rising inthe canyon July 31,7:00p.m. Water levelsbegin 75

Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity 5 water andabsolutelyberserk. water startedtogodown,Iwashanging ontothisrock.Iwasaboutwaistdeepinthe to climbwithit,anditwasn’t workingverywell.Andithurtquiteabit....Andbeforethe boots, itwasaboutmidcalf, and atthattimeIthoughtI’dbroke myarmbecauseItried that thing, andIheldontothatthing....At thattimethewaterwasabouttotopofmy fingers wouldholdonto,andabout30footdown,Ihappenedtocatch arock....Icaught be it.Andextremelypanicked, andIwasreachinggrabbingforanythingmylittle way, andIstartedtofall Ifellagood30foot,andthoughtthatthiswasgoingto And justrightafterthat,therocksIwas[sic]holdingontoandwere standing ongave him, hemissedit,anditrolleddown,wasstilllit,landed onaledgeofrock. and IpassedtheflashlighttoGeorge,becausehewasaboveme.And asItosseditto McMaster: We kept climbingup,andwewereaboutagood50feetabovetheroadway, Woodson: No.Itwasvery, verydark.Itwascloudy. Interviewer: Itwasn’t rainingatthattime? ambulance. happened tobearockrighttherethatwecouldhangontopullourselvesoutofthe up intheair...it justfoldedtheambulance...itwasnodoubtamiraclethatthere wall again,anditjustseemedlike the taillightsandtheheadlightbothpointedstraight Woodson: IturnedaroundandwaslookingatJohn,sawtheambulancehitcanyon going outthewindow...and Iclimbedoutthewindowrightbehindhim. And atthatpointIknewwasdead....Andjusthappenedtolookover, andIsawGeorge going throughmymind,“Make itquick.“Ididn’t want todie,but,“Just make itquick.“ foot intheair, and itslammedusintotheeastwallofNarrows...thethingthatwas in hysterics....You couldhearthesepropanetankshissing. Anditpicked usup,agood15 veryhardtodescribetheterroronefeelsatthatpoint,becauseIrecallmyselfbeing It’s highway....and itsoundedlike afreighttraincoming. Andithitus. McMaster: Andwe’dstartedmakingaU-turn,wecouldseethestuffsloppingoveron John McMasterandGeorgeWoodson Loveland AmbulanceService 77 Survivor Story July 31,7:00p.m. Storm destroys rain gauge atDrake 74

The River and theRoad —3-3 1976 Flood

8 Image source: Estes Park Trail Gazette Trail Image source: Estes Park Discharges into the A staggering 9 10

80 July 31, 7:30 p.m. trees deposited by water US 34 is blocked by rocks and US 34 is blocked 31,200 cubic feet of water per second of the weather that day. But this was no of the weather that day. But storm. ordinary five-minute afternoon the storm Unusually weak winds stalled for more in the canyon’s upper reaches were than three hours. Clouds that sky” “piled 12 miles into the mountain Big Thompson from small tributaries Big Thompson from small tributaries of were “unequalled in the records Colorado history.” set off the most powerful flood since set off the most powerful flood ago. The glaciers retreated 10,000 years normal river rose to 19 feet above its depth of 18 inches. It was not raining at the lower end of the canyon. the lower end not raining at It was “Suddenly, the rain 6 Bill explained, likely 7 Meanwhile, a thunderstorm was Meanwhile, a thunderstorm was air rose up developing overhead as moist mountain slopes. just came down,” recalled Bill Wells, just came down,” recalled Bill “I who owned an inn at Glen Haven. mean, it was not pouring or anything… day. it was a sunny, partly cloudy to That’s all it was….When it started our little rain, we thought, ‘Well, here’s before, shower….’ We’ve had heavy rains the most but they last five minutes at much and go on…so I didn’t pay too attention to it,” summarizing what most people thought

79

78 July 31, 7:30 p.m. reached at Glen Haven First North Fork peak level is Many people did not believe the possibility of a flood and did not heed officers’ warnings. officers’ warnings. did not heed a flood and possibility of believe the did not Many people Jerry Reinhart Reinhart Jerry and the Road and “I remember the great times Cove....The I had at Cedar after the flood, we Thursday drove in over the mountain — you never Cove to Cedar forget the smell or your first look at what was left of the community.” River River The 3-4 — 1976 Flood 14 inchesofrainwouldfall. located nearthecommunity ofDrake, came fromanamateur radiooperator Some saythatthefirst floodwarnings night.” the lightningkeptupthroughout and thenthethunderlightning, the stormstarted—wehadhailfirst, say thatitwasveryfoggyupthere.But it lookedlikeLosAngelessmog.People when welookeduptowardsEstesPark, day,” shesaid.“Theskywasfunnyand, nice rain,youknow,butitwasastrange forebodings. “Therainstartedout,justa weather thatday,butwithominous recalled theinitialnormalcyof lived inthecanyonsince1956,also Dorothy Ferguson,aresidentwhohad ferocious velocity. disgorged fromthecanyon’smouthwith cfs dischargedduringthe1951flood, and thepreviousmaximumof8,000 (cfs), comparedtoatypical165cfs Lives Lost 144 13

11 Injured 250 Withinfourhours, Calls to911 reportrocks 12 July 31,8:00p.m. on thehighway Helicopter Evacuees 840 82

The rivermoveda275-ton boulderthesizeofasmallhouse. evaluate thesituationtoeast. Fort Collinsatthetime,wasaskedto Tim Littlejohn,whowassouthof near theTownofEstesPark.Officer William Millerarrivedatthewestend the report.Officer the canyontoverify officers toeachendof sent twopolice his communication dispatcher hearing An emergency water onUS34. rockslides and who reported the Olympicswithhiswife. duty andhomeinLovelandwatching veteran oftheStatePatrol,whowasoff of SergeantHughPurdy,a26-year dispatcher alsorequestedtheservices Destroyed Homes 418 Businesses Destroyed 52 started tumbling.” just sweptusaway.And I I could.And whenIdid,it forced myselfupashard really wanttodrown’....I just My‘I don’t thoughtwas, arms. Iknewhewasgone. [he]wentlimpinmy “Then 15

Destroyed Vehicles 438 14 Jerry Shaffer The Colorado State Patrol trooper Image source:DenverPublic Library responds to 911calls July 31,8:00p.m. 81

83

The River and theRoad —3-5 1976 Flood Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public

18

84 He was able to drive He was able to and to high ground remained in the Drake area overnight he to help wherever could. However, Officer Littlejohn had trouble convincing people to leave. “One individual in particular at the argued that he had reservations is gone,” Waltonia, which we now know man Littlejohn later recalled. Another insisted on returning to his house. “I had to threaten him with physical the arrest, finally to get him to obey described order, and to stay.” Littlejohn the growing devastation he witnessed by, it that night. “I saw a trailer float 40 must have probably been doing on top miles an hour bobbing along away of the water, and cars floating at this time, and there were great big trees just being torn off the side of the of rocks bouncing of rocks sides, and off cliff of the splintering wooden houses.” July 31, 8:30 p.m. Big Thompson reaches peak level at Waltonia

16 vehicle, swam to safety, and moved upslope. abandoned his Struggling to stay drown!” Officer Miller get out of here before I get out of here 17 At about the same time, to them. I’m going to to them. I’m going Officer Littlejohn had made it up the canyon to the Drake area. it up the canyon to the Drake set Sergeant Purdy advised him to back up a roadblock to turn people down the highway. Officer Littlejohn flashing drove through rushing water his emergency lights and warning to flee residents with his loudspeaker for their lives. Nearly eight miles into the canyon, miles into Nearly eight hit with a Miller’s car was Officer water that washed 30-foot wall of “Advise, we across the highway. he radioed. “The whole have a flood,” is gone. We have people mountainside other side. I’m going trapped on the out. I’m up to my to have to move Advise, we can’t get doors in water! ahead of the rising water, Officer ahead of the rising water, Officer rumble Littlejohn “could hear the deep of large boulders as they ground together in the dark water, the clatter It was one of the most catastrophic natural catastrophic one of the most It was history. in Colorado disasters and the Road and

River River Image source: Coloradoan source: Image The 3-6 — 1976 Flood water, youweredead.” thing forsure,ifyougotcaughtinthat were justsplinteredbytheforce….One bounce offthecliffsides,andhouses you know,fromtherocks,andthey’d could actuallyfeelthegroundshake, to bethesizeofmypatrolcar….You huge, latersomeofthemappeared boulders intheriver.Well,theysounded banks andyoucouldhearrocksthe soon tofollow. beacon forhelicopter rescues thatwere situated abovetheinundation, becamea 20

19 One year’s worthof rainfallswithinone One year’s Hispatrolcar, to twohours inmanyareas July 31,8:45p.m. 86

high ground….” as thewaterstartspickingup…[static]… out ofthelowareadownbelow.Assoon Drake onthehighway.Tellthemtoget I can’tgetout…abouthalfmileeastof “I’m stuck,I’mrightinthemiddleofit, he madehisfinalradiotransmission: conditions worsened.Around9:15p.m., make hiswayupthecanyon,where Meanwhile, SergeantPurdytriedto a rockandmudslide. of Drake,crushedbeneath found abouttwomiles east not survivetheflood. Hispatrolcarwas 21 SergeantPurdydid 22

A year’s worthofrainfellin70minutes. A year’s weather eventinthehistoryofstate.” scene ofthelargest,mostdestructiveanddeadly an officialin Estes Park wouldleadmetothe know thataroutinerequestforassistancefrom based Alpine Rescue Team in1976,littledid I “As oneoftheyoungestmembers Evergreen- Forecasters inDenverwarn of “somelocal flooding” July 31,9:00p.m. 87 The

River Ted Williams and theRoad —3-7 85

1976 Flood In 24

25

90 where debris dams on where debris dams up and build that bridges and then wash through break the bridges.” one location, the river one location, the from reportedly rose flood normal flow to five stage in less than minutes.

88 26 July 31, 9:00 p.m. reached at Glen Haven Second North Fork peak level is Racing down the canyon at an average Racing down the canyon at an speed of 15 miles per hour, this cataclysm obliterated everything in its “We could see the water as it came “We could see the water as it fact, it up higher and higher, and in Dorothy looked like an ocean,” recalled that Ferguson. “And it built up to like one volume so quickly, it was almost the minute it was just rain, and then and next minute it was all this water, the river, then things started going down Conrad’s like the first one was Ernie other green bus, brand new, and some lights cars, and some of them had their the on and we didn’t know whether all people were in them or not, and down the sorts of things started coming river.” Police Officer William Miller William Officer Police

23 “Advise, we have a flood. The whole we have a flood. “Advise, have people We mountainside is gone. I’m going to side. trapped on the other doors up to my have to move out. I’m in water!”

89 Erik Nilsson was working as an Erik Nilsson was working as Larimer emergency responder with the County Emergency Services mountain ‘76 rescue team in the 1970s. “The came so flood was so unexpected and hour fast,” he said. “Four inches per hours. It rainfall rates for about three They just, people didn’t have a chance. up so didn’t see it coming, and it came fast that we had consecutive so-called ‘walls of water,’ which are big rushes to climb a telephone pole but was swept to climb a telephone pole but away and killed in the flood. July 31, 9:00 p.m. Big Thompson reaches peak level of 30,100 cfs at Drake (50 cfs is normal) 30,100 cfs at Drake and the Road and

River River

Image source: Denver Post 840 people were evacuated by helicopter. 840 people were evacuated The 3-8 — 1976 Flood of the Officer Michael Owen Conley who was Estes Park Police Department, up off duty but happened to be driving stopped the canyon with his wife, was the road. by a boulder in the middle of flood Surrounded by rapidly rising State waters, he contacted the Colorado Patrol to alert them that the highway out was impassable and to keep people instructed of the canyon. Officer Conley began his wife to climb to safety and to get out warning residents and tourists as fast as possible. As a wall of water shot through the canyon, he attempted walls. the onlyescapewastoclimbcanyon even ifUS34hadnotbeenwashedout, raced throughthecanyonsofastthat was noescape.” rock, water,anddebrisfromwhichthere them topiecesinamassivegrinderof “twisted, scraped,pounded,andripped sucked under the surface. The river then as ifinagiantblender” of thewallwaterweretossedaround homes andeverythingelseinthepath houses, propanetanks,cars,mobile and buildings.“Hugeboulders,trees, path, makingdeathtrapsofvehicles in countlessplaces”while “theriver ferocious currentbelow, “fellapart down fromaboveand undercut bythe pummeled bylandslides crashing the canyon’soutsidecurves.US34, water hurtleddownriver,itgouged As the“grinding,tearing,ripping” 29 28 Thewaveofwater The human response is, “Let’s gotohelp.” The humanresponseis,“Let’s 27 beforebeing July 31,9:00p.m. Fox Creek reaches peak level 92

of herhousetotake tosafety. tried torescueherby carrying herout neighbor, DougButow, described howher Dorothy Ferguson they “hitaholeinthe roadandtipped trying toescapethecanyon, shesaid stomach.” makes yousickatthe you andintoyou, roaring beatsagainst while, thecontinuous being tested.Aftera noise ofjetengines were remindedofthe to trembleandyou mountain seemed deafening. Thewhole noise ofthewaterwas one residentsaid,“The Recalling thesound, boomed andrumbled.” 30

Image source:DenverPost

While Sgt Purdy radios his July 31,9:15p.m. final transmission 93 so-called ‘walls ofwater’...”so-called up sofastthatwehadconsecutive didn’t seeitcoming,andcame “People didn’t haveachance.They

The River Emergency Responder and theRoad —3-9 Erik Nilsson 91 1976 Flood

32 Image source: Colorado State University

96 canyon mouth Flood crest reaches July 31, 9:40 p.m. 31 large as 3,200 cubic feet. 3,200 cubic large as The river carried a boulder as carried a The river over the jeep, [which] threw me in the over the jeep, [which] drowned. That was my water. I almost because I don’t know scariest moment, how to swim.” factor The rising river was just one contributing to the unprecedented cascaded degree of devastation. Water down the steep hillsides, dislodging and shattered into the rocks from cliff faces that tumbled slabs splintered mature water below. Huge falling granite fir trees growing at the base of Ponderosa pines and Douglas velocity carried a boulder as the slope. The river’s astounding largest one moved by the flood large as 3,200 cubic feet; the slammed hundreds of cubic weighed 275 tons. A debris slide river. Deposition of all this yards of soil and rocks into the where the flow was impeded material, which was intensified vegetation, diverted the river by bridges, buildings, and dense several locations. from its pre-flood channel in Outside the canyon, emergency response efforts by Outside the canyon, emergency volunteers quickly formed governmental agencies and citizen roadblocks near the top and strengthened. Police erected and base of the canyon to turn motorists away. Around 3:15 a.m. on Sunday morning, the Governor of Colorado, Richard

94

95 July 31, 9:30 p.m. Big Thompson reaches peak level at Cedar Cove Survivor Story Survivor Rocky Mountain National Park Mountain Rocky and the Road and David Essex, Ron Cotton, and Dwight Hamilton and Dwight Cotton, Ron David Essex, River River I broke down at home three or four days later. I think of it as being my wife, you, at home three or four days later. down I broke We had rigged a rope, Tyrolean traverse, across the point where the road was cut out traverse, across the point had rigged a rope, Tyrolean Essex: We very many to take but at that time we felt it was too dangerous of the Glen Comfort store, the velocity of the water was just terrific. people across it, because or dipped, or something... Interviewer: So if that rope broke, again....Got back we started up out of there in a convoy be in trouble....So We’d Essex: Yes. deep, and then had totally washed out behind us; it was extremely to a point where the road further. we just could not go any Interviewer: So you were trapped. coming up onto the road where rising, Essex: At that point we were trapped. The water was feeling that that would be the only way we were, we rigged ropes up the steep rock slopes, had one lady that was 90 years old, these people up the ropes. We start to take out. We’d could stand that sort of shock, but we sent some of our climbers know whether she we didn’t up the number of people that we could take up high to find ledges, spots that could hold a we were worried about rockslides all the time slope, and the other thing that was dangerous, to cross the point where the road had coming down on you....At this point, a couple tried going through. They actually tried to drive been washed out and this terrific velocity of water One lady inside never got out. She drowned. through it. It turned their vehicle upside down. onto the vehicle, which was upside Her husband did succeed in getting out, was hanging weren’t We made two tries to get him with a rope, then he was just sloughed away. down. We able to get him. were down there for about 21 hours. I came home...and sat down in the chair, Cotton: We a baby. and I started bawling like Hamilton: to me, and it still does. or someone very close to you. And it really got get a rope to that that night, I think a lot of us took it personally that we couldn’t Essex: Well, you blame yourself for not being able to get to them.... know, You guy. 3-10 — The 3-10 1976 Flood planning. was dispatchedat4:00a.m.torenderaidand begintactical National Guard,alongwithmoreColoradoState Troopers, order tocoordinateandauthorizestaterelief measures.The Douglas Lamm,declaredastateofdisaster emergencyin National Guardhadleft Coloradoforsummertrainingthe rescue measures.Ironically, theFortCollinsunitof state, andfederalagencies coordinatedevacuationand Throughout thedays that followed,asmallgroupoflocal, A smallgroupofagenciescoordinatedevacuationand 33

July 31,10:00p.m. Fish Creek reaches peak level 98

rescue measures. Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity until itgotthere.” would be.Nobody really knew foresee wherethedangerzones no chance.There wasnowayto “Anyone caughtinthecanyonhad Police Officer Tim Littlejohn Big Thompson siphon,weighing 989,000 pounds, isdestroyed July 31,10:15-10:30 p.m. The 99

River 97

and theRoad —3-11 1976 Flood

102 Captain John Englebert John Captain

Fort Collins Sheriff’s Office Collins Sheriff’s Fort 101 “Of course, we threw everyone we “Of course, we threw level into could get on the county just worked, and if Everybody this. to sleep, they they could find time going.” did. But they just kept 35 through the canyon July 31, 10:30 p.m. 20-foot wall of water tears The Covered Wagon Café, approximately The Covered Wagon Café, approximately stood on one mile west of Cedar Cove, of the a low terrace on the north side river. When water began rising in front vehicle flipped upside-down, trapping vehicle flipped upside-down, husband her inside, where she died. Her cling managed to climb outside and tried to to the car. One of the rangers throw Fred a rope but was unsuccessful. Fred Moments later, the torrent carried to his death.

34 heavy equipment. They led roughly 200 heavy equipment. They led roughly many to 300 people out of the canyon, by foot. Fred and Edna Woodring, residents of Fred and Edna Woodring, residents from Estes Park, heard a distress call and drove the canyon on their CB radio their down to help as listeners followed water’s progress. “It’s too much, the too high,” they heard Fred concede. the raging “We’ve got to turn back.” But the water plunged their vehicle into Edna river, headlights up. “My God!,” cried. “It’s the end of the world!” The

100 peak level Dry Gulch reaches July 31, 10:30 p.m. and the Road and

River River

Image source: Denver Post Fifty-five National Park Service personnel responded within 15 minutes to the call for help. call for help. minutes to the within 15 responded personnel Service National Park Fifty-five night before. U.S. Army helicopters night before. U.S. Army helicopters arrived from and Wyoming of the near daybreak, and other units U.S. National Guard, along with the Forest Service, coordinated ground-to- efforts air communication to focus relief was within the canyon. A triage center Fifty- organized at the canyon’s base. five National Park Service personnel of the responded within 15 minutes County call for help from the Larimer Rangers Sheriff’s Office in Estes Park. Park from Rocky Mountain National searched for survivors and repaired upper sections of the highway with 3-12 — The 3-12 1976 Flood motels atWaltonia,whichhadbeen west, 16peoplediedintwoseparate site whenthefloodsubsided.Farther Only alargegravelbarremainedonthe who hadbeeninthehomesurvived. restaurant, andadjoiningmotel.Noone a surgeofwatercarriedoffthehouse, was homesafe.Whiletheyweretalking, had leftearliercalledtotellherbossshe to hisadjacenthouse.Awaitresswho customers retreatedwiththeproprietor of thebuilding,restaurant’s10 “the riverboomedandrumbled.” US 34“fellapartincountlessplaces”while Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity National Weather Service issues first flashflood bulletin July 31,11:00p.m. 104

scene ofdestruction” “an almostincomprehensible Sunday” thenextdayrevealed The dawnof“Centennial began. stranded inthecanyon evacuations forthosestill obliterated. flood, virtuallyallofWaltoniahadbeen built onalargedebrisfan.Followingthe the sceneto“onerival 38 Anobserverlikened 36 floating downtheriver....” trying toretrievebodiesthatwere down then…theyhadrescueworkers wallofwaterwascoming “This

Red Cross Officer, Fort Collins 37 as Barbara O’Reilly Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity 103

Creek reach peaklevels Miller Fork andBlack July 31,11:00p.m. The 105

River and theRoad —3-13 1976 Flood

42 Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public Infused with state and federal Infused with state and federal assistance, rescue crews developed a systematic procedure to extricate survivors. The U.S. Forest Service network provided an air traffic control to coordinate the operation, which involved approximately 15 helicopters. rescue Small helicopters were used to roof people stranded on cliff sides, Evacuees tops, and other high refuges. were whisked to designated areas flown where they were subsequently out of the canyon by large Chinook transport helicopters to Loveland. Hundreds of people were transported out of the canyon; many did not need “There frantically...” people waving were

41

106

107 Ervin Deal Deal Ervin He contacted 40 July 31, 11:00 p.m. at canyon mouth (normal is 165 cfs) Big Thompson reaches peak level of 31,200 cfs “We could see the helicopters all day flying back and forth, and they knew we were people there, and we knew they were taking get out eventually.” out, and figured that we’d the office of President Gerald Ford, the office of President Gerald and who issued federal disaster funds additional ground and air support. hillsides….You see people standing hillsides….You see people standing on on roofs of houses and the stream a feeling of either side of them, then it is response great frustration....The human is, ‘Let’s go to help.’” and the Road and The Governor surveyed 39 River River Image source: Loveland Reporter-Herald the destruction by helicopter on Sunday the destruction by helicopter morning. “We were in a reconnaissance that helicopter, and there’s no way we could help all of those people were that were down there, but there people waving frantically, there were people clinging to, literally clinging to a combination tornado, flood, and a combination tornado, flood, earthquake.” 3-14 — The 3-14 1976 Flood away, Ipassedout.” cried. Whatcanyousay?Aswewalked others hadperished.“Wehuggedand friends, anddiscoveredhowmany resident foundsomeneighborsand and evacuationcenter.Oneevacuated Cross hadestablishedarefugeeshelter Loveland HighSchool,wheretheRed medical attentionandwerebroughtto had beenrecovered. all butfivebodies end ofSeptember, identified. Bythe lost theirliveswere individuals who mud. Slowlythe and coveredin stripped ofclothing Bodies werefound by drowning. injury ratherthan killed bytraumatic of victimswere The vastmajority and debrispiles. the river,cars, the dead.Bodieswerepulledoutof The focusthenshiftedtorecovering canyon hadbeenevacuated. everyone whowantedtoleavethe By Tuesday, everyone whowantedtoleavethecanyonhad beenevacuated. 43 ByTuesday, Image source:DenverPost 44

Big Thompson peakdischargeexceeds previous maximum recorded in1945byfour times knew thatboywasokay.” what happensnow,’ aslongI don’tinto myeyes.Isaid,‘I care This olddadbawled,tearscome Greg?,’ andhesaidGreg wasokay. ‘How’sin Berthoud,andIsays, “Monday Icalledmyboythatlives July 31,11:00p.m. George Morgan 110 109

get veryfarbeforetheywereswamped. through, andtheygot ofcourse,theydidn’t [the ambulancedriver]thoughtthey werewavingthem Interviewer: Theofficerswerewavingthemdown,and lost theirambulance,andvery, veryluckily, theybothlived. Thomas: Yes, butheranourroadblock,andofcoursethey Interviewer: Therewasanambulancethatgotthrough. people. because theywouldhavebeenonthehighway, warning would havediedjustexactlylike SergeantPurdy died, and setuptheroadblock.Ifhe’dhavestayedinthere,he the sergeant,hereluctantlyturnedaroundandwentback the canyoninNarrows.Whenhegotthatorderfrom incidentally, itsavedRahne’s life,inthathewasamileup Officer Rahne andOfficerJones,who setupthatroadblock, Purdy savedmany, manylives.Becauseaftertalkingto there’s nodoubtinmymindthatorderofSergeant Narrows, notletanybodycomewestupthecanyon....Now Rahne andOfficerRandy Jonestosetaroadblockupatthe Cedar Cove,whilehe’swest-bound,hetellsOfficerGeorge that allwasnotrightwiththeworld.Soprobablyalong he’s aprettysagaciousoldsergeant—hehadfeeling drown....When SergeantPurdy startedupthecanyon— extremely hard,andIfeltthatofficerwouldprobably carhadbeenwashed away,Purdy’s] thatitwasraining down inthecanyon,bythattimeI’dheard[Officer this radiotrafficoutofEstesPark, tryingtocontactmycar than whatIhadoriginallysupposed....I’mhearingall Thomas: Ijusthadafeelingthatwesomethingbigger Colorado StatePatrol, Greeley Captain WilliamThomas Survivor Story The River and theRoad —3-15 108

1976 Flood

111 Captian William Thomas William Captian Colorado State Patrol, Greeley Patrol, State Colorado By midweek, residents made their way By midweek, residents made back into the canyon and evaluated the damages. They worked feverishly their to remove debris and silt from properties, and identify salvageable Some household items and keepsakes. tackled the logistics of rebuilding. Two organizations, the Interfaith Task Image source: Colorado State University “When Sergeant Purdy started up the canyon, he started up the canyon, “When Purdy Sergeant world. not right with the that all was had a feeling Randy Rahne and Officer tells Officer George So...he let Narrows, not to set a roadblock up at the Jones no doubt the canyon....There’s anybody come west up saved Purdy order of Sergeant in my mind that that many, many lives.”

112 July 31, 11:00 p.m.

46 previous stage by more than 10 feet Big Thompson peak stage of 19.7 feet exceeds As emergency efforts subsided, local, As emergency efforts subsided, state, and federal agencies evaluated damages and started implementing plans for recovery. Disaster operation centers were positioned throughout Loveland. Various organizations, including the Red Cross, provided advice, lodging, legal help, insurance and mental health counseling. release Politicians quickly gathered to assist government funding to financially aid in survivors, support cleanup, and the quick repair of roadways, culverts, and bridges. The loss 45 and the Road and

River River

Image source: J. Berna Image source: J. Disaster operation centers were positioned throughout Loveland. Disaster operation centers 3-16 — The 3-16 of life and extent of the destruction were of life and extent of the destruction inconceivable. 1976 Flood disaster, Of the 144 people killed in the In 41 were residents of the canyon. of life, addition to the devastating loss the in a period of roughly two hours damaged flood had also destroyed and hundreds of homes and businesses, and decimated the highway, trampled jeopardized overturned cars and trailers, Loveland’s water supply, deposited massive debris piles, and caused millions of dollars in damages. [the road]ispracticallyarockbed,” belief in1920that“thegreaterpartof significantly limited.Contrarytothe But accesstothecanyonwas automobiles. of debris,93propanetanks,and197 to removenearly320,000cubicyards by theU.S.ArmyCorpsofEngineers exemplified bythecontractsawarded homes. Themagnitudeoftheeffortwas hours cleaningandrepairingdamaged help tosurvivors,andspentcountless Service, offeredimmediateanddirect Force andtheMennoniteDisaster material aroundbridgeabutments, outside ofriverbends,aswellbackfill scour. Highwayembankmentsonthe walls, whichsufferedtheeffectsof on artificialfillplacedalongthecanyon US 34hadbeenconstructedprimarily 47 was goingtobehigh.” we knewimmediatelythatthedeathloss counting campers,inthatcanyon. And feltweprobablyhad2,500people, “We Colorado State Patrol, Greeley Captain William Thomas 48

113 boulders throughoutthecanyon. mudslides, anddislodgedmassive adjacent roadways,triggeredmultiple The floodhadalsodestroyedsmall, River and24alongtheNorthFork. were lost—18alongtheBigThompson $16.5 million.Atotalof42bridges 11 miles.Repairswereestimatedat miles, andbadlydamagedanother destroyed nearly10oftheroad’s23 damage. The1976floodcompletely were particularlyvulnerabletoflood state ofdisaster emergency Governor Lamm declares August 1,3:15a.m. 114

The Slowly, theindividualswholost their lives wereidentified. their lives The River Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity and theRoad —3-17 1976 Flood Image source: J. Berna Image source: J.

115 Barbara O’Reilly

116 Red Cross Officer, Fort Collins, Fort Officer, Cross Red transportation route. August 1, 4:00 a.m. “The installed three telephone company could almost see telephones for us...you faces when they [evacuees] the relief on talked to someone at home to let them they know that they were okay....Finally had spoken to someone, you know, and they just broke down and cried.” National Guard, Colorado State Troopers are dispatched to the area Troopers US 34 was more than just a US 34 was more

51 Image source: Denver Public Library Image source: Denver Public A 49

50 and the Road and River River 3-18 — The 3-18 A 1977 report to the Governor about the A 1977 report to the Governor an objective effects of the flood included “strive that the design of US 34 should and to withstand a 100-year flood” The to design bridges “for debris.” report also recommended considering or a “alternatives of relocation of all of the portion of the highway outside canyon,” noting that “it is important of in planning for the redevelopment the river the canyon to remember that the course becomes destructive when in man’s of pursuing its natural functions, functions are caught in its path.” Destruction of this magnitude cut Destruction of this magnitude the off the canyon’s residents and route to Estes Park, which people depended on for business, travel, and communication. “I went to a meeting,” road embankment in the embankment road with was decimated, Narrows tens of a few the exception the curves. of feet inside journalist who flew over the who flew over journalist described area in a helicopter destruction the carnage: “The 1976At every bend was stunning. it seemed, the in the canyon, ripped out raging river had making the the road before down the turn and roaring next straight-away.” Flood Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity Loveland High School....” the evacuationheadquartersat people available,weretoreport all the Mental Health Clinic I got[home],notifyingusthat “A callwasawaitingmewhen Larimer County Mental Health Clinic, Fort Collins Jim Dooney 118

Residents worked fromtheirproperties. feverishly toremovedebrisandsilt Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity rescue helicopters aremobilized Death reports beginmounting; August 1,EarlyMorning of measurement,and a the community,ameans “was thebindingcord of route —thehighway just atransportation US 34wasmorethan gone, Iam that road,andwithit livelihood dependson possible, becausemy back justasquick got togetthatroadbuilt whatever youdo,we’ve “and Isaid,‘Allright, recalls GeorgeMorgan, sunk.’” 117

52 But point oforientation.” its formerlocation. do anything”butreconstructUS34in result, “itwouldhavebeenimpossibleto drive vehicles. construction equipment andfour-wheel and providecrude,short-termaccessfor canyon tofacilitateclean-upoperations lane, gravel“pioneerroad”upthe Corps ofEngineerscreatedasingle- equipment available,”theU.S.Army Employing “someoftheheaviest it threatenedthecommunityorder.” had been,because“tomoveorchange would bereplacedpreciselywhereit wanted assurancesthattheroad for affectedcommunities.People of thehighwaywas“ananxiousissue” months ofthe1976disaster. where itisnow”withinnineto12 be rebuiltandimproved“prettymuch Highways statedthattheroadwould Director oftheColoradoDepartment Acknowledging theseconcerns,the scraped theriverbottom forfilldirt. boulders “aslargeaselephants” and The 57 Engineersremoved River 56

53 Reconstruction and theRoad —3-19 55 Asa 58 54

1976 Flood 59 Neil Grigg, a professor 60 Although the flood severely scoured the Narrows, enough material remained in the channel to build the pioneer road. Following the temporary repairs, US 34 was opened in of civil and environmental engineering at Colorado State University, remembers In the aftermath of the devastation, In the aftermath of the devastation, US 34 highway engineers redesigned planning using “modern engineering and a standards,” with the goal of surviving 100-year flood. November 1976 until more large-scale, November 1976 until more large-scale, permanent repairs could be conducted. Neil Grigg Neil Colorado State University State Colorado “[US 34] was supposed to “[US be a lot more bullet-proof.”

120 Image source: Photographic Documentation, Emergency Relief for Federally Owned Roads Owned Roads ERFO 108(10), Big ERFO Owned Roads Roads for Federally Owned Relief Documentation, Emergency Image source: Photographic 1979 to May 1980 SH 34/Larimer County Sept Thompson Narrows, at Loveland August 1, 9:00 a.m. National Guard arrives 119 Survivor Story Survivor Captain John Englebert Captain Sheriff’s Office, Fort Collins and the Road and River River Here comes this car down the river; we could see inside this vehicle, and no more the river; we could see inside this vehicle, and Englebert: Here comes this car down They car. could see the faces of people in this it was washed by us. We than a matter of seconds top of this car bobbing in the water, and of course, it was just the were waving and everything, later the people who were cork. And I understand that two or three days a it was just like I’m sure that was their bottom did find a car with people in it. So helping us search the river There was no either. anyone could do without jeopardizing their life fate. There was nothing There was nothing that could be done. way we could stop the car. all trained for this into a large air operation. I think that we were I could see we were going private helicopters, we had located enough military helicopters, night. By the next morning and St. Anthony’s in the area. The first day we [brought had 19 helicopters helicopters. We ran I think we [was] fuel. The first day, in] 250 people that were injured....The main problem were helicopters burn an awful lot of fuel. We through 5,000 or 6,000 gallons of fuel. Nineteen landed [the helicopters] and of Denver....We bringing it up in large tank trucks, jet fuel, out follow us, we’ll lead you in.’’ The prop blasts we tried to tell [the evacuees], ‘’Now hold hands, me down twice, and so immense it knocked from the double rotors on these helicopters were wind blast. I know they down these elderly people many times, just the of course, knocked They were just immensely terrified of these large could see it on their faces. were terrified. You helicopters. flight. Where does that...? Interviewer: Some place you mentioned a night helicopter down on the Hoffman, called night about 11:30 this individual, Roy Englebert: Wednesday hear him very well because his battery radio on the Emergency Channel, and we couldn’t around him or something to that effect. We was getting awfully weak...he had three bears out all the garbage dumps in the canyon. The hypothesized that probably the water had wiped pilots, and told him called back one of the We bears, of course, the wildlife, were all stirred up. was surrounded by three bears, and they were right outside thought [Roy] the situation....We when they Well, gun, no light, no nothing. of his camp and, of course, he was petrified. No He had quite a spotlights chased the bears off. got there, the noise of the helicopter or the big story to tell, that he had three full-grown he could see them and bears circling him, grunting, have harmed him, maybe they would have. Maybe the bears wouldn’t very plainly. 3-20 — The 3-20 1976 Flood Prior totheflood,US34wasnomorethan10feetabovewater. remain stranded atGlenHaven Approximately 200people August 1,6:00p.m. 121

volume soquickly...itwasallthiswater...” like anocean,And itbuiltuptothat higher andhigher,infact,itlooked couldseethewaterasitcameup “We the intenttosurvivea100-yearflood. — themostdifficultsectionwith above theriverthroughNarrows engineers decidedtoraisetheroad 10 feetabovethewater.Highway to theflood,US34wasnomorethan a lotmorebullet-proof,”hesaid. redesigned road.“Itwassupposedtobe discussions andplanningaboutthe was “elaborateandexpensive.” The processofrebuildingthehighway solutions toproblems encounteredin untried constructiontechniques. Timely concepts whichrequired basically This section“incorporated noveldesign The Dorothy Ferguson River and theRoad —3-21 62 Prior 61

63 1976 Flood 65 In addition to rebuilding US 34 to be In addition to rebuilding US 34 changes more flood-resistant, long-term a were implemented to help ensure disaster of this magnitude would never strike again. Larimer County purchased Upon completion, US 34 was officially Upon completion, US 34 was reopened on May 17, 1980, nearly opening four years after the flood. The ceremony culminated with “Chainsaw sign Maggie” razing the last construction storm while crowds watched in a sleet (shown at right on facing page).

122 US 34 officially reopened nearly four years after the flood. four years after nearly officially reopened US 34 August 2, 9:00 a.m. Image source: CDOT Archives Image source: CDOT County a major disaster area President Ford declares Larimer President George Morgan George “I said, ‘we’ve got to get “I said, ‘we’ve that road built back just as quick as possible, because my livelihood depends on that road.’” The reconstructed The reconstructed 64 and the Road and River River Image source: Photographic Documentation, Image source: Photographic Documentation, for Federally Owned Roads Emergency Relief SH 34/ ERFO 108(10), Big Thompson Narrows, 1980 Larimer County Sept 1979 to May the field were of utmost importance if importance of utmost field were the schedule were construction the strict to be maintained.” section was raised by 16 feet using was raised by section which were concrete panels, precast soldier piles supported anchored by steel into bedrock. Heavy by a footing set rods tied each panel into horizontal steel the canyon wall. 3-22 — The 3-22 1976 Flood writing abouttheflooddecadeslater, safe. Andtheybelieved,asdidanauthor changes madewouldhelpkeepthem and thatthelessonslearned believed thedisasterwasananomaly, level. actions whentheriverreachedacertain Protocols wereestablishedtotrigger installed throughoutthecanyon. gauges andfloodwarningsignswere from thepathofafutureflood.Rain 153 parcelsoflandtoremoveresidents again forseveralhundredyears.” freak eventwhichwouldnotoccur canyon. Theyconsideredtheflood“a wanted torebuildtheirhomesinthe devastation of1976,manyresidents Gradually, peoplereturned.Despitethe Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity 66

67 They hard. Thompson particularly again hittingtheBig September 9,2013,once northern FrontRangeon history struckColorado’s worst floodinthestate’s just 37yearslater,the for thenexttime.” prepared, ofcourse, Canyon isbetter that “theBigThompson where theyonetimesat.” people movingbackintheirhouses, amconcernedaboutsomeofthe “I US 34officially reopens May 17,1980 People returned; theyconsideredtheflooda“freakevent.” 68 George Morgan Yet 123 Image source:CDOT Archives The River and theRoad —3-23 Image source:CDOT Archives 1976 Flood Image source: https://pubs.usgs.gov/gip/2006/35/pdf/GIP-35_screen.pdf source: Image and the Road and River River 3-24 — The 3-24 1976 Flood 8 3 2 1 Endnotes 9 20 14 13 12 11 10 7 6 5 4 24 23 22 21 18 17 16 15 27 26 25 19 30 29 28 31 32 34 33 42 41 35 44 43 40 39 38 37 36

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McComb BigThompsonFloodCollection.ColoradoStateUniversity. https://lib2.colostate.edu/archives/findingaids/water/wbtf.html#series4; TheHistoryPress. Dollman,DarlaSue.2017.Colorado’sDeadliestFloods.Charleston,SC: ,40Years Later. July29.https://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/the-big-thompson-disaster-reverberations-of-a-flash-flood-40-years-l.html. rial/33410020/michel-owen-conley. pp1115AB. pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. pp1115AB. Press, FortCollins,CO. pp1115AB. pp1115AB. pe=pdf. pp1115AB; Gruntfest,Eve.1987.WhatwehavelearnedsincetheBigThompsonFlood:Proceedings oftheTenth AnniversaryConference,July17-19,1986,Boulder, Colorado.January 1. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.838.404&rep=rep1&ty .S. GeologicalSurvey.2016.BigThompsonCanyonFloodsof1976and2013:ATale ofTwo DeadlyandDestructiveWeather Events.https://www.usgs.gov/news/big-thompson-canyon-floods-1976-and-2013-tale-two-deadly-and-destructive-weather-events. .S. 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August21. https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76236/WBTF00404.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithDorothyFerguson.August21. https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76215/WBTF00112.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. . 2014.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyMitchellSchaeferwithErikNilsson,LarimerCountyEmergencyManager . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithTimLittlejohn.August21. . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithDorothy Ferguson.August21. https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76215/WBTF00112.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. . https://apple-history.com/aI; NationalOceanicandAtmosphericAdministration(NOAA).n.d.DopplerRadar. https://www.spc.noaa.gov/faq/tornado/doppler.htm; Henson,Bob.2016.TheBigThompsonDisaster:Reverberations ofa . n.d.Frequently Asked QuestionsaboutFloods.https://www.nssl.noaa.gov/education/svrwx101/floods/faq/; U.S. GeologicalSurvey.2006.1976BigThompsonFlood,Colorado.https://pubs.usgs.gov/fs/2006/3095/pdf/FS06- und. 2018.MichaelOwenConley. Electronic Document, http://www.nleomf.org/officers/search/search-results/michael-owen-conley.html; FindaGrave.2018.MichaelOwenConley. https://www.findagrave.com/memo- everberations ofaFlashFlood,40Years Later. McComb,David.1975-1985.David July29.https://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/the-big-thompson-disaster-reverberations-of-a-flash-flood-40-years-l.html; : TheHistoryPress. LastCallinBigThompsonCanyon. http://coloradorestlessnative.blogspot.com/2010/01/officers-last-call-in-big-thompson.html. : TheHistoryPress; Carrigan,Rob. 2010.Officer’s : TheHistoryPress. emembers BigThompsonCanyonFlashFloodof1976.Electronicdocument, http://www.noaanews.noaa.gov/stories/s688.htm. .colostate.edu/handle/10217/76225. .colostate.edu/handle/10217/76225. . July17.https://dspace.library.colostate.edu/bitstream/handle/10217/167367/NilssonErikTranscript. The River and theRoad —3-25 1976 Flood elief for Federally Owned Roads ERFO 108(10), Big Thompson Narrows, SH 34/Larimer County Sept 1979 to May 1980. elief for Federally Owned Roads esearch (UCAR). 2007. Big Thompson Canyon July 31-Aug 1, 1976. https://www.assessment.ucar.edu/flood/flood_summaries/07_31_1976.html. esearch (UCAR). 2007. Big Thompson Canyon July 31-Aug 1, 1976. rofile of a Natural Disaster. Vestige Press, Fort Collins, CO. Press, Vestige rofile of a Natural Disaster.

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September14.https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76263/WBTF00310. . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithErvinDeal.August13.https://mountainscholar . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithBarbaraO’Reilly, Red CrossOfficer, Fort Collins,CO. August17.https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76232/WBTF00305. . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithCaptainJohnEnglebert,LarimerCountySheriff . 1976.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyDavidMcCombwithEssex,Ron Cotton,andDwightHamilton,Rocky MountainNationalPark. September10.https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/han- . 2014.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyMitchellSchaeferwithErikNilsson,LarimerCountyEmergencyManager rofile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Press, FortCollins,CO. rofile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Press, FortCollins,CO. rofile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Press, FortCollins,CO. rofile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Press, FortCollins,CO. esearch (UCAR).2007.BigThompsonCanyonJuly31-Aug1,1976.https://www.assessment.ucar.edu/flood/flood_summaries/07_31_1976.html; McComb.1980.BigThompson:Profile ofaNaturalDisaster. Vestige Press, Fort esearch (UCAR).2007.BigThompsonCanyonJuly31-Aug1,1976.https://www.assessment.ucar.edu/flood/flood_summaries/07_31_1976.html. esearch (UCAR).2007.BigThompsonCanyonJuly31-Aug1,1976.https://www.assessment.ucar.edu/flood/flood_summaries/07_31_1976.html. .org/bitstream/handle/10217/76213/WBTF00108.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. ’s Office.August18.https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76214/WBTF00110. ’s Office.August18.https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/76214/WBTF00110. . July17. https://dspace.library.colostate.edu/bitstream/handle/10217/167367/NilssonErikTranscript. The River and theRoad —3-27 1976 Flood and the Road and River River 3-28 — The 3-28 1976 Flood The River and the Road – 4-1

2013Monday, September 9 The rain fell for six straight days.

Thirty-seven years would pass before storms once again rendered the Big Thompson River a formidable, raging torrent, destroying roads and bridges, “I didn’t see it being ripping houses and businesses from worse than Big foundations, and most terribly — Thompson of ’76, not a claiming lives. chance, not a chance….” Image source: CDOT

This time, nature spread her wrath During that time span, “biblical” record- 21 helicopters Erik Nilsson unsparingly over 17 northern breaking rainfall dropped the equivalent launched the Larimer County Front Range counties. Atypical for of one year’s worth of precipitation, biggest civilian Emergency Manager September, the rain came on the heels raising mountain streams and rivers to airlift operation of a particularly dry summer, and was unprecedented levels, and unleashing since Hurricane “greeted with enthusiasm” by those widespread destruction and catastrophic Katrina, seeking seeking relief from the .1 While loss throughout Colorado’s Front Range.2 to rescue more than 1,200 people the 1976 storm was over within hours, It was “as if a hurricane skipped over deemed missing or stranded by the the rain that began on September 9, Texas and made landfall directly in the devastation.4 2013, didn’t end until six days later. Rocky Mountains.”3 On September 16, Image source: CDOT Eve Gruntfest Eve Flood researcher Sept 9, Afternoon hail, street flooding Denver area reports heavy rain, “I see cars thought I would ever never and certainly around trees again, wrapped Canyon,” Thompson Big not in the In a testament to 8 the fury of the 2013 flood, the roiling the fury of the 2013 flood, the County alone, 1,120 square miles were County alone, 1,120 square miles homes flooded and approximately 2,000 and 4,500 businesses were impacted. flowing Although peak water volume through the Big Thompson Canyon 1976, was “somewhat lower” than in or Big Thompson River levels reached level for exceeded the 1976 flood’s peak as more than 100 hours and qualified a 1,000-year event. Sept 9, Afternoon degrees to 66 in one hour Temperature drops from 82 Temperature In Larimer 7 and the Road and The fast-moving water 5

and caused a staggering 6

River River

Image source: CDOT River levels reached or exceeded the 1976 flood’s peak level for more than 100 hours. River levels reached or exceeded the 1976 flood’s peak The 4-2 — Unlike the 1976 flood, which occurred Unlike the 1976 flood, which of in relative isolation, the rains from 2013 inundated a swath of land Collins, Colorado Springs north to Fort size of flooding an area “roughly the Connecticut.” demolished or severely damaged access demolished or severely damaged and roads, bridges, retaining walls, homes and major highways; swept away businesses; 2013 Flood and $2.9 billion in damages to public private lands statewide. acknowledged. Eve Gruntfest,afloodresearcher, not intheBigThompsonCanyon,” around treesagain,andcertainly thought Iwouldeverseecarswrapped riverbanks weredecimated. in theriver,andriparianareas items likerefrigeratorsbecamelodged 1976 event. Geological Surveytocommemoratethe a high-watermarkerplacedbytheU.S. waters oftheBigThompsondemolished at approximately6,000cubicfeetper flows releasedfromtheOlympusDam A combinationofwatershedrunoff, Image source:ColoradoStateUniversity Image source:CDOT 9 Treelimbsandhousehold 11

10 “Inever Steady rain fallsinLoveland Sept 10 floodwater isalmostincomprehensible, devastation beingbroughtonbythis Sheriff JustinSmithreportedthat“the roads andbridges. adjacent retainingwalls,andaccess out hugesegmentsofthehighway, Floodwaters overtoppedandwashed caused massivedamagetoUS34. dam breachesatadjoiningtributaries second (cfs),andflowsurgesfromdebris Big Thompson River.” incomprehensible, especiallynearthe on bythisfloodwaterisalmost devastationbeingbrought “The 12 LarimerCounty Floodwaters washedouthugesegmentsofthehighway, Larimer County Sheriff Flash flood warningsareissued Sept 11,4:00-7:30 p.m. for mostof BoulderCounty retaining walls,accessroads,andbridges. Justin Smith The River and theRoad —4-3 Image source:CDOT 2013 Flood

15 Erik Nilsson, Larimer County Erik Nilsson, Larimer both Emergency Manager, experienced recalls the 1976 and 2013 events. He “I didn’t the first night of the 2013 flood: see it being worse than Big Thompson of ‘76, not a chance, not a chance.… When I got up the next morning…I worse heard people saying that it was You know, than ‘76, and I went, ‘What!?’ reached it was that bad that night. It can rain a tipping point, you know, it all this, and rain and rain and rain and a very, all hell breaks loose….It was getting very unusual event, and it kept and I worse and it kept getting worse out Big didn’t really expect it to blow were Thompson Canyon like it did.…We night, worried that might happen that Range prior to the deluge. And part of Range prior to the effects of climate the blame is likely change. Sept 11, 10:20 p.m. US 34 in Big Thompson Canyon Numerous rocks are reported on Image source: Darren (Paco) Van Sistine, USGS. Public domain Public USGS. Sistine, Van Darren (Paco) Image source: of water in concentrated areas, such as of water in concentrated areas, Rather, the 1976 Big Thompson flood. event: an “This was a totally new type of one early fall widespread event during said of the driest months of the year,” of Brad Udall, director of the University Colorado, Boulder’s Getches-Wilkinson Energy Center for Natural Resources, the and the Environment. Part of that blame goes to the 14-year drought the Front hardened the soil and parched Larimer County Sept 11, 7:30 p.m. Heavy rain falls in central and the Road and

River River 14 Ten people died in the 2013 13 This flood was not the result of spring rains or intense summer thunderstorms. This flood was not the result of spring rains or intense The extraordinary events of 2013 The extraordinary events of 2013 did not fit Colorado’s usual rainfall result pattern. This flood was not the of spring rains or intense summer ferocity thunderstorms that release a especially near the Big Thompson especially near the Big Thompson River.” The 4-4 — 2013 Floodincluding floods throughout the state, two women who lived in Big Thompson Canyon. Image source:CDOT Thompson Canyon likeitdid....” really expectittoblowoutBig kept gettingworseandIdidn’t “It keptgettingworseandit Larimer County Emergency Part oftheblamegoesto14-yeardroughtthathardenedsoilandparchedFront Range. Erik Nilsson Manager flooding undercuts US34 Sept 12,1:00a.m. Big Thompson River magnitude.” last 40years,itstillsurprisedme,the water disastersinthiscountyfromthe since ‘76andeventhoughI’dseenthe But, eventhoughI’dbeenaround that itwasjustgoingtokeepraining. up andcomingtheforecastwas that afternoon,‘causeitwasjustcoming kept raisingandraising,”herecalled. flood didn’tcomewithonebig‘bam’;it third residenceinthecanyon.“The Big ThompsonRiverinDrake—their Carolyn inahomeadjacenttothe Gilbert Dunninglivedwithhiswife 16

Sept 12,1:00a.m. west ofLoveland US 34isclosed safety. “Wearevery,verylucky,really in thecanyonbeforebeingairliftedto The couplespentseveraldaystrapped damaged. Well,Iwaswrong,”shesaid. was —thatthishousewouldneverbe those folkswerequitesure—asI a hillaboveourcurrenthouse,and urged ustocomeoverthem…on escaped thesamefate.“Theneighbors farther down.”Theirownhomenarrowly the endofourotherneighbor’sdriveway flood. Justwent,floatedrightdownat down theriverbiggestnightof [house weowned],watchedfloat Carolyn elaborated,saying“[The]first alive.’” really luckybecausewegotout say, youknow‘Iwas,wewere I dotodayislookaroundand utility buildings,allgone….All front yards,theirlawns, see theneighbor’shomes,their and truly,”Gilbertreflected.“We declared adisasteremergency day GovernorJohnHickenlooper the closeofSeptember 12,the only afewdozenevacuees. By on September11,2013,with Thompson Canyonbeganslowly Evacuation measuresintheBig 17 The River and theRoad —4-5 2013 Flood Image source: CDOT Gilbert Dunning Sept 12, 6:00 a.m. release water from Lake Estes release water from Lake Bureau of Reclamation warns it will Bureau of Reclamation “WeWe and truly. very lucky, really are very, yards, their homes, their front see the neighbor’s were buildings, all gone….We lawns, their utility we got out alive.’” really lucky because Sept 12, 5:00 a.m. Big Thompson Canyon Flash flood warning is issued for and the Road and evacuation efforts gained 18 River River Image source: CDOT The 4-6 — significant momentum and hundreds of significant momentum and canyon. people were advised to leave the Fire Jason Gdovicak, the Volunteer above Chief for Glen Haven, was living September the Glen Haven Firehouse in and 12 2013. He spent September 11 about warning residents of the canyon the impending danger, then assisting rose. with evacuations as the water he After 24 hours of working non-stop, get some returned to the firehouse to down lay to got finally I think I “So sleep. for the state, 2013 Flood began slowly on September 11, 2013. Evacuation measures in the Big Thompson Canyon gone.” road and…thetownwas prettymuch even explainit,justwalking downthe out, anditwaslikeArmageddon. Ican’t next morningwewokeupandwalked it’s like,‘Weneedtogethigher.’…That and we’retryingtosaveourlives…and out ifClifton’sinthewaterorhe’sout, trying togetstuff.We’refigure in mylife.Everybody’sscrambling, ‘What?’…And I’veneverbeensoscared Did anybodywakeJasonup?’I’mlike, need togetoutofhere!Evacuatenow! screaming andeverybodyyelling,‘We off, laiddown,andthen…allIheardwas firehouse….So Igotallmywetclothes and possiblylookatevacuatingthe up there,thenwehadtogetpeople trigger point.Ifthewaterstartedgetting glow sticksoutontheroad,askindofa had acouplepeopleonwatch.Weput about 11:30orsoatnight,andwe 19

By thecloseofSeptember12,hundredspeoplewereadvisedtoleavecanyon. Larimer County Sheriff’s Office calls598 Larimer County Sheriff’s canyon residents towarnofrising river Sept 12,6:00a.m. compared to1976can beattributed,in The dramaticdifference inlossoflife visited thesameplacesin1976.” “comparisons tothehorrorthat communities alongtheriver,inviting the small swamped waters had 13, flood- September morning on By early 2013. 4145) wasissuedonSeptember14, Presidential DisasterDeclaration(DR- Thompson Canyon. reported deadormissingintheBig individuals, bothfromCedarCove,were local agencies.Remarkably,onlytwo or escortedoutbyfederal,state,and were safelyevacuatedbyhelicopter 21 Intheend,roughly1,000people me, themagnitude.” the last40years,itstillsurprised water disastersinthiscountyfrom ’76 andeventhoughI’d seen the “Even thoughI’d beenaroundsince Larimer County Emergency Manager 22

20 A Erik Nilsson residents are evacuated Big Thompson Canyon Sept 12,6:00a.m. The River and theRoad —4-7 Image source:CDOT 2013 Flood

25 Dan 26 Carolyn Dunning Carolyn “Thecome over to urged us to neighbors house, a hill above our current them…on — as I folks were quite sure and those never be this house would was — that I was wrong,” damaged. Well, and grade were undermined in the and grade were undermined in Narrows, where the river washed out pavement from below, exposing and support structures. Commuters and residents of Drake, Cedar Cove, roadways, Glen Haven were stranded on in their homes, and along hillsides. One journalist noted, “Nowhere have One journalist noted, “Nowhere Big the challenges been steeper than Thompson Canyon, where floodwaters and scoured away not only pavements roadbeds and subsurface but guardrails, of geology, effectively leaving sections highway unsound and unsafe.” Alexander, Federal Disaster Recovery Alexander, Federal Disaster Recovery Coordinator for the Federal Emergency Management Agency, reiterated these Sept 12, 6:00 a.m. notices to residents in 100-year floodplain City of Loveland issues voluntary evacuation

23 Much of the US 34 roadway 24 Nearly nine miles of US 34 were Nearly nine miles of US 34 were completely destroyed or significantly damaged. part, to nearly 40 years of significantly part, to nearly 40 years of significantly to improved technology. In contrast were the 1976 flood, torrential rains through predicted further in advance modern use of radar and satellites, and lines of communication allowed for quick road closures and rapid emergency response. In particular, system the Wireless Emergency Alert directly transmitted flash flood warnings web sites, to cell phones. Mobile phones, disperse and social media also helped information rapidly. Sept 12, 6:00 a.m. 79 Loveland, Estes Park, Lyons Loveland, Estes Park, Evacuation centers are set up in Federal, state, and local 78 and the Road and Colorado Resiliency Colorado Resiliency and Recovery Office and Recovery River River organizations, non-profits, and various individuals organizations, non-profits, and various individuals from private sectors came together under the CRRO close to direct, guide, and begin restoration. By the rebuild, or of 2013, people had been able to repair, busi- otherwise mitigate damage to numerous homes, 2013, nesses, roads, and bridges. Also, by the end of to watershed recovery efforts helped restore damage ecosystems and reduce water erosion along hillsides. The 2013 damage was so extensive that Governor The 2013 damage was so extensive that Governor and formed the Colorado Resiliency Hickenlooper whose mission Office (CRRO), a state agency Recovery repeat itself” sure history doesn’t is “to make in places Big Thompson Canyon. like Image source: CDOT The 4-8 — Nearly 9 miles of US 34 were completely destroyed or significantly damaged. or significantly destroyed 34 were completely 9 miles of US Nearly 2013 Flood floodwaters. near areasstruckthehardestby for roadrepairsinColorado initial $35millionwasallocated housing orhomerepairs.An which wasusedtofundtemporary for individualassistance,mostof approved roughly$19.5million Emergency ManagementAgency private and public aid. The Federal triggered multipleoutpouringsof The severelevelsofdestruction events of1976. anyone whohadwitnessedthetragic The scenewasuncannilyfamiliarto better, stronger,andmoreresilient.” pledged that“Coloradowouldbuildback the flood,GovernorHickenlooper take usyearstorecoverfrom,”hesaid. and thelandscape.Andthisisgoingto This disasterhaschangedcommunities disaster thatColoradohaseverendured. observations. “Thisisthelargest isolated townslikeEstes Park.“Ina exemptions toquickly openaccessto state officialsinvoked specialemergency With humanlivesandpropertyatstake, 28 Inthedaysfollowing evacuations mandatory City ofLoveland makes Sept 12,9:45a.m. 29 Image source:CDOT

27

Much oftheUS34 roadway andgradewereundermined intheNarrows. Image source:CDOT Sept 12,10:00a.m. Flood surpasses 1976 benchmark here! Evacuate now!’” ‘We needtogetoutof yelling, was screamingandeverybody laid down,andthen…allIheard “So Igotallmywetclothesoff, Glen Haven Volunteer Fire Chief The River and theRoad —4-9 Jason Gdovicak 2013 Flood Image source: CDOT Image source: CDOT

Sept 12, All Day to leave the canyon Image source: Jacobs source: Image Hundreds of people are advised Jason Gdovicak Jason witnessed the tragic events of 1976. witnessed the

30 Glen Haven Volunteer Fire Chief Fire Volunteer Glen Haven Sept 12, 10:30 a.m. releases students early Thompson School District “That we woke up next morning and walked out, and it was like was pretty town Armageddon.…the much gone.” The scene was uncannily familiar to anyone who had to anyone familiar was uncannily The scene and the Road and River River 4-10 — The 4-10 Jim Eussen, the CDOT Region 4 Jim Eussen, the CDOT Region Manager, Planning and Environmental for the recalled seeing the destruction first time. “We had seen what happened in Loveland, but the damage in the canyon was pretty devastating; I was thinking, ‘Wow, how did anyone survive this?’ We saw debris, propane tanks, propane leaking.” He noted that the scene was similar to pictures he’d seen of the 1976 flood. It was “kind of an eerie feeling” to see the same level of destruction as 1976. “Everything was rush to rescue mountain residents,” residents,” rescue mountain rush to “set a bold Hickenlooper Governor and seemingly impossible giving timeline,” the Colorado Transportation (CDOT) Department of 2013 to restore highways only three months flood until more obliterated by the could be made. To permanent repairs the flood-ravaged temporarily rebuild permitting roads, environmental significantly condensed. processes were or real delay by the “Any perceived Sean locals…was unacceptable,” noted and Cronin, the head of the St. Vrain District. Left Hand Water Conservancy Flood be revisited.” people inU.S.historywasnotgoingto make surethesecond-largestairliftof spokesman JaredFiel.“Hewantedto better thanitwasbefore,”saidCDOT just builditback,buttoback a mandatebythegovernortonot was feverishlyworking.“Weweregiven It wasagainstthisbackdropthatCDOT roadway hadbeen.” gone. Theriverchannelwaswherethe easy. “We’refocusedonbuildingback such apunishingblowwouldnotbe 32 However,recoveringfrom 31 from dam to 5,202cfsfrom6,000 cfs Bureau of Reclamation reduces flow Sept 13,1:00a.m. Image source:CDOT implementing temporaryemergency The firstchallengeCDOTfacedwas marathon.” marathon. Andwe’rejuststartingthe flood. “Butthisisnotasprint—it’s Executive Directoroneyearafterthe Colorado ResiliencyandRecoveryOffice stronger, better,”saidMollyUrbina, leaking.” debris, propanetanks, anyone survivethis?’ We saw ‘Wow, howdid wasthinking, “I CDOT Region 4Planning and Environmental Manager 33 Recovering fromsuchapunishingblow wouldnotbeeasy. Jim Eussen River velocity reaches9,000 Sept 13,1:00a.m. cfs westof Loveland damaged corridors. an emergencyplanofactionforflood- for CDOTstafftogatheranddevelop The ICCservedasacentrallocation US 34totakecontrolofthesituation. Command Center(ICC)inLovelandnear governor. CDOTestablishedanIncident December 1,2013,asmandatedbythe repairs tomakeUS34passableby got itdone,evenwiththeholidays.” were seenasunachievable,butwe around theclockondeadlinesthat for sixlongmonths.Everyoneworked ICC everyday,working12-hourdays dusk. “Wewereputtingoutfiresatthe working fromfirstmorninglightuntil straight daysassessingthedamage, response teamspentabout10to15 He andtherestofemergency effort theemergencyrepairsrequired. Jim Eussenrecalledtheherculean start.” trouble justtryingtodeterminewhere items werestrewneverywhere.Wehad propane tanks,andotherhousehold road atall.Naturaldebris,vehicles, segments, therewasnoevidenceofthe was wheretheroadwas,andinmany was destructionallaround.Theriver Canyon ConstructionManager,said,“It Monte Malik,theUS34BigThompson 36

The River 34 and theRoad —4-11 35 2013 Flood

37 38 the team in place that got it done. We the team in place like him to make the needed someone Eussen explained. difficult decisions,” The flood had widened and degraded The flood had and deposited a the river channel, of sediment and significant amount the canyon. Extensive debris throughout repair efforts included removing and debris, re-establishing shoulders embankments, replacing damaged asphalt, filling washed out sections access with concrete, repairing local bridges, and repairing damaged drainage structures. Upon completion 34 was of these emergency repairs, US 21, 2013, opened to traffic on November the at a cost of $30 million. Although for temporary repairs were designed were normal high water events and to flood safe, they were not designed repairs standards. Therefore, permanent the were required in order to minimize potential for similar future impacts, road, and provide long-term safety of the restore the river itself. US 34 and CO 402 Sept 13, 5:45 a.m. I-25 is closed between With this level of dedication and With this level of dedication and response commitment, the emergency by opening team surpassed expectations the road early, before Thanksgiving. and Jim Eussen noted that quick was unflinching decision-making an integral part of this success. 4 “Johnny Olson [the CDOT Region time] put Transportation Director at the Two individuals are Two reported dead or missing Sept 13, Early Morning Jim Eussen Jim Environmental Manager Environmental and the Road and CDOT Region 4 Planning and 4 Planning Region CDOT River River “The damage was devastating. Everything “Thedevastating. Everything damage was river channel was where was gone. The the roadway had been.” Image source: CDOT 4-12 — The 4-12 2013 Flood repairs. faced was implementing temporary emergency The first challenge CDOT The floodwidenedanddegradedtheriverchannel,depositeddebris. be.” problems aregoingto it nowtoseewhereour we havetore-engineer stream haschanged,and That’s hugebecauseour damage thatthisonedid. it didn’tdotheerosive back then[1976],and department store…itwasmuchfaster graders havegoneintomakeabigbox There’s someplacesthatlooklikeroad events. “It’sscouredout[in2013].... now,” hesaidwhencomparingthetwo then, itwasaprolongedrainfloodevent huge difference.Itwasaflashfloodback 2013] thisriverwasup,andthat’sa floods hadontheriver.“Fordays[in the differenteffects1976and2013 day downpour.ErikNilssonrecalled suffered fromtheprotracted,multi- In additiontotheroad,riveralso of therapidlydeployed emergency” asaresult of anunprecedented became acasualty Furthermore, “theriver 39

Sept 13,8:00a.m. National Park closes Rocky Mountain road atall.” there wasnoevidenceofthe was, andinmanysegments, riverwaswheretheroad “The US 34BigThompson Canyon Construction Manager Monte Malik Image source:CDOT Sept 13,9:30a.m. Denver toWyoming I-25 closes from around lunchtime.... get anythingout.We evacuatedontheSaturdaymorning to usinanywaythatanythingwas atrisk.Sowedidnot is over300feet,wasariver, essentially....It didn’t occur was, betweenthehouseandcliff, whichat[that] pointnow driveway, andthehousewasgone.Andwhere husband pullingout....Hedrovedowntothebottomof wasn’t raining....Out ofthecornermyeyeIcouldsee sleep....We woke upabout6o’clockinthemorning. It justgoupthereandgetagood night’s the heck?Let’s neighbors] werequitewelcomingandwethought,“What I’m tryingtothinkofhowdescribethisinwords....[Our it wouldtake anenormousamountofwater, before—ah, about 60feethigherinelevation.Soourfeelingwasthat feet awayfromthat,soitwasaprettybigdistance.It stream was,ourplace—homewasabout275 big. Itwasknockingdowntrees....From where[the]normal Campassi: Itwasbig,Imeantherenoquestion. events astheytranspired? Interviewer: Would youmindtakingmethroughthose arealdisaster.Emotionally it’s not somethingwefinanciallywilllikely everrecoverfrom. financiallydevastating. It’s acompletelifechange.It’s it’s washed away. We understandittookabout15minutes... there forsometime.Itwasentirelydestroyed. purchased thehomeinFebruaryof1992.Sowe’vebeen River. MyhusbandandIhadbeenouttheresincewe Campassi: OurpropertyborderedtheLittleThompson Blue MountainResident, Survivor Story Little ThompsonRiver The Kim Campassi 80

River and theRoad —4-13 2013 Flood Image source: CDOT As part of the permanent As part of the 42 Permanent repairs began in 2015, repairs began Permanent the temporary replacing which included replacing repairs, revegetating, walls and fencing, guardrails, repairing river. The overall goal and restoring the repairs was to provide of the permanent and safety long-term dependability of US 34. repair process, CDOT conducted repair process, to determine how to several analyses to better resist rebuild the highway In addition, CDOT major flood events. from the identified repeat “hot spots” and 1976 flood, including the Narrows Drake, the “horseshoe curve” east of Sept 13, 2:00 p.m. US 34 need to be rebuilt Sheriff estimates 17 miles of Erik Nilsson Erik Larimer County Emergency Manager Emergency 41 “There’s some places that look like “There’s in to make road graders have gone a big box department store.…” and Wildlife that the impacts to the river to the that the impacts and Wildlife would be emergency repairs from the reversed.

Sept 13, Morning 40 Larimer County Sheriff conducts helicopter surveys and the Road and River River

Image source: CDOT However, restoring the Big Thompson Big Thompson restoring the However, to wait until design River would have of permanent highway and construction assured Colorado Parks repairs. CDOT

emergency repairs to US 34 in 2013. repairs to US emergency The river suffered in response to the protracted, multi-day the protracted, response to suffered in The river downpour. 4-14 — The 4-14 2013 Flood order tokeepmovingforward.” issues andmakechangesinthefield together andknowingwhentoescalate there. Wereliedonpeopleworking designers basedonwhatwesawout even proposemajorchangestoroadway plans, makechanges,reviewissues,and each other.“Fieldstaffhadtointerpret to thetrustteammembershadin attributes thesuccessofthisapproach permanent solutions.MonteMalik designing andimplementinginnovative situations onthegroundwascrucialto flexible torespondunexpected Keeping anopenmindandremaining flatter areaswherepeoplehavesettled. both floods,allofwhicharewider, remaining hotspotsthatsufferedduring Cove, Idylwilde,andDrakewerethree unique naturalpeculiarities.Cedar both ofwhicharecharacterizedby a 10-hourshiftduring theday,and they sawinthefield.Onecrewworked given someautonomybasedonwhat of workinglonghours,especiallywhen project teamwasuptothechallenge Morale washigh;themajorityof The overallgoalof thepermanentrepairswastoprovide long-termdependabilityandsafetyof US34. 44

Sept 13,4:40p.m. I-25 opens eastof 43 Loveland sections inthefieldfor solutionswe’d in thefield,doingsitevisits,test good atlisteningtotheissuesraised work,” heexplained.“Designerswere was notanoption,wehavetomakethis storms. “Thementalitywasthatfailure keeping theroadclearduringsnow of Malik’sbiggestchallenges,aswas multiple shiftsinthecanyonwasone to maintaintheequipment.Managing night, leavingafewhourseachday another workeda10-hourshiftat an option,wehavetomakethiswork,” mentalitywasthatfailurenot “The US 34BigThompson Canyon Construction Manager Monte Malik Multiple helicopters evacuate people stranded byflood Sept 13,7:00p.m. Image source:CDOT The River and theRoad —4-15 2013 Flood Reflecting 47

48 James Usher, CDOT US 34 James Usher, 46 Accepting the river’s reluctance to be Accepting the river’s reluctance for the tamed and the funds available of project, CDOT refined its definition as “resilient.” “The definition changed Usher the project progressed,” James Roadway designers strived to make designers strived Roadway resilient to future storm the road more or lessen the events, and prevent by significant floods. damage caused “resilient” actually mean? But what does at the river and the “We have to look said Johnny roadway as a system,” Olson. on the 2013 flood, canyon resident on the 2013 flood, canyon resident always Carolyn Dunning said, “We were it’s told, ‘Well, even if there’s a flood, again, not ever gonna get washed out especially in the Narrows or anything.’ learned So, one thing I think that they’ve they try this time is that no matter what return to and do, that river is going to its original course….” Project Director, echoed this approach, Project Director, wanted to make the stating that CDOT each other river and the road “work with and not against each other.” enter flooded areas Sept 14, 7:00 a.m. Search-and-rescue teams 45 never tried before. People who couldn’t never tried before. People who in be in the canyon had confidence the those who were, and people in to the canyon could communicate up this was field office and designers — to look key. Designers were really willing at field issues and make adjustments. and It was one big family: design construction,” he said. Sept 13, 7:00 p.m. Larimer County Sheriff requests additional air support Monte Malik Monte Construction Manager Construction and the Road and

US 34 Big Thompson Canyon Canyon 34 Big Thompson US

River River “Field staff had to interpret plans, make changes, review issues, and even propose major changes to roadway designers based on what we saw out there.”

Image source: Jacobs Morale was high; the majority of the project team was up to the challenge of working long hours. Morale was high; the majority of the project team 4-16 — The 4-16 2013 Flood recover nexttime,”hesaid. bullet-proof, butmakingitbetterableto necessarily meanmakingtheroad crews infaster.“Resilientdoesn’t emergency respondersandconstruction get outofthecanyonfasterandgetting most essentialforallowingpeopleto preserving thesegmentsofroad CDOT shiftedthedesignfocusto this approachprovedtobeimpractical, out duringthenextfloodevent.”When making suretheroadwouldn’twash recalled. “Atfirst,wedefineditas Image source:Kiewit Managing multipleworkcrewshiftswasachallenge,askeeping theroadclearofsnow. 49 Sheriff’s Office statesPatricia Goodwine Sheriff’s of CedarCove ispresumeddead Sept 14,3:15p.m. Service, ColoradoParksandWildlife, In partnershipwiththeU.S.Forest difficult forwildlifetotraversetheroad. Thompson Canyonandcouldmakeit diminish thenaturalbeautyofBig river. However,thesetechniqueswould or wallstowithstandtheforcesof the bankswithrockymaterial(riprap) on thecurrentalignmentandfortify in thissituationistorebuildtheroad coexist withtheriver.Atypicalapproach reimagine theroadandhowitcould The US34projectteamendeavoredto people have beenevacuated Sheriff’s Office reports475 Sheriff’s Sept 14,3:55p.m. family: designandconstruction.” adjustments. It wasone big to lookatfieldissuesandmake “Designers werereallywilling US 34BigThompson Canyon The Construction Manager River Monte Malik and theRoad —4-17 Image source:Kiewit 2013 Flood Carolyn Dunning Dunning Carolyn

51 The team evaluated shifting the road The team evaluated moving it away from onto bedrock by the river more room the river, allowing event. The bedrock to roam in a flood would also protect the road from washing away again and stranding about residents and visitors. As a result, road was three-quarters of a mile of the removal shifted onto bedrock, requiring yards of of approximately 387,000 cubic understanding of what resiliency meant resiliency meant of what understanding on the it would be applied and how solutions and new project. Innovative from an iterative concepts evolved resiliency within the process to achieve budget. Sept 15, 7:45 a.m. for in Larimer County 482 people are unaccounted “We ‘Well, were always told, it’s a flood, even if there’s in the not ever gonna get washed out again, especially try and do, matter what they or anything.’....No Narrows course….” that river is going to return to its original qualified group of engineers with years with years group of engineers qualified projects in on roadway of experience the country. But Colorado and around not a standard concept resiliency was CDOT projects at implemented on the budget was the time. In addition, innovative design was in flux and an so the project could needed very quickly funding deadlines. meet emergency had to reach a common The engineers Sept 14, Evening for Larimer, Boulder, El Paso Counties El Paso Boulder, for Larimer, President Obama declares major disaster President

50 and the Road and

River River

Image source: CDOT CDOT refined its definition of “resilient.” of “resilient.” refined its definition CDOT and the Big Thompson Watershed Big Thompson and the to take a CDOT decided Coalition, approach to deliver much different connection between a more resilient Park. As a result, Loveland and Estes repairs that were most of the permanent be seen. implemented cannot 4-18 — The 4-18 2013 tasked to devise the The design team consisted of a highly permanent repairs Flood was abandoningtheroadway’s historic canyon thatgavetheriverroomtomove One ofthemostapparentchangesin bedrock foraroadway,”Kueselnoted. for astadiumproject,butnottobuild used thesoil-cementmixingbefore artificial bedrock.“Thecontractorhad it belowtheroadtocreateatypeof mixed cementwithsoilandinstalled technical solutions.Forexample,crews the challengeofexploringunfamiliar Project Manager,assherecounted Kuesel, JacobsEngineeringDesign been appliedinthiscontext,”saidVelvet typical. “Many of the solutionshadnever the techniquesusedwereanythingbut of theroadwereprotectedthisway,and Approximately threeandone-halfmiles level, leavingthenaturalsettingintact. techniques wereinstalledbelowground these locations,variousfortification extraordinary costandimpacts.In highly constrainedthecanyonwithout where theriverandsurroundingwalls However, theroadcouldnotbeshifted 20-story building. it wouldnearlyreachtheheightofa material waspiledontoafootballfield, rock —astaggeringamount.Ifallthis The US34projectteam endeavoredtoreimaginetheroad andhowitcouldcoexistwiththeriver. 52 Sheriff’s Office statesEvelynStarner of Sheriff’s Cedar Cove ispresumeddead Sept 15,7:45a.m. 53 several options,such as movingthe pull thehighwayawayfromriver. requiring roadbuilderstocontinually eroded thecanyonwallatthislocation, Drake. Millionsofyearsfloodinghad the river—horseshoecurveeastof path alongoneofthesharpestbendsin location. of evacuationsoccurrednearthis times. Inaddition,thelargestnumber been completelydestroyedboth the teamrealizedthatareahad the 1976and2013flooddamage, When examiningphotographsfrom 55 Thedesignteamconsidered Bad weather grounds16 Sept 15,9:50a.m. 54 rescue helicopters

to recovernexttime,” proof, butmakingitbetterable mean makingtheroadbullet- “Resilient doesn’t necessarily CDOT US 34Project Director The River James Usher and theRoad —4-19 Image source:Jacobs 2013 Flood Velvet Kuesel Velvet Engineering Jacobs Manager Project Design Image source: CDOT Image source: CDOT “Many of the solutions had never of the solutions had never “Many context.” been applied in this City of Loveland opens Sept 15, 10:00 a.m.

Disaster Assistance Center 57 reasons, CDOT surrendered its fight reasons, CDOT surrendered its the with the river and chose to shift hillside US 34 alignment through the the south of the river, abandoning this road’s original alignment. Although a solution involved two new bridges, tens of huge amount of excavation, and the original millions of dollars more than Fiel plan, CDOT spokesman Jared horseshoe explained, “In the case of the have it. curve, we said, ‘Let’s let the river let’s pull She’s taken it twice before, so back and let her have it for good.’” Sept 15, 9:50 a.m. people from Cedar Cove Ground crews evacuate 100 For these 56 and the Road and

River River

Image source: CDOT Approximately 387,000 cubic yards of rock were removed to shift 0.75 mile of the road onto bedrock. mile of the road to shift 0.75 removed of rock were cubic yards 387,000 Approximately 4-20 — The 4-20 The only option that would withstand The only option that would withstand the a 100-year flood was shifting and road to the other side of the river this too, spanning it with bridges, but and was would be extremely expensive However, therefore initially dismissed. this the team eventually realized that even option made the most sense, from a cost perspective. 2013 Flood was too road onto bedrock, but the bend sharp. They also considered installing expensive. retaining walls, but they were CDOT abandoned the roadway’s historic path along one of the river’s sharpestbends —thehorseshoecurve. historicpathalongone oftheriver’s CDOT abandoned theroadway’s matrix riprap(partiallygroutedrocks) roadway designers,whodeviseda constructability suggestionstothe area westofDrake.Fieldcrewsoffered process wasexemplifiedat“theslide” Another exampleoftheiterativedesign Weather clears,allowing Sept 16,11:45a.m. helicopters tofly no smallfeat.Crewsworked30to40 from underneath.Installingriprapwas deal ofdamagetotheroadhappened prevent erosionfrombelow,asagreat was placedtoprotecttheriverand using eight-tonine-footboulders,which County require evacuation 1,000 people inLarimer Sept 16,11:45a.m. and letherhaveitforgood.’” taken ittwicebefore,solet’s pullback said, ’Let’s lettheriverhaveit.She’s “In thecaseofhorseshoecurve,we The River Image source:J. Berna and theRoad —4-21 CDOT Spokesman Jared Fiel 2013 Flood Image source: Jacobs

81 Sept 16, 11:45 a.m. of rain over seven days Loveland receives 8.68 inches Jason Hagerty Hagerty Jason Kiewit Project Manager Project Kiewit “Given that the river has a lot more room, I think “Given that the river not just [in a flood] will be a lot less, the damage [properties] as well.” to the road, but to private Image source: Jacobs for in Larimer County Sept 16, 11:45 a.m. 398 people are unaccounted

59

The restoration 60 and the Road and 58 River River CDOT had to change ideas about how typical river restoration work was done. work was river restoration how typical ideas about had to change CDOT work made use of existing and native While construction crews were busy While construction crews were were repairing the road, other specialists As with focusing on restoring the river. road, their approach to repairing the how CDOT had to change ideas about was done. typical river restoration work varying A team of professionals with to types of expertise worked together form a vision of the river restoration with and build the features correctly, highway workers and river restoration specialists working side-by-side. feet deep in the canyon where the sun where the sun in the canyon feet deep having to the ridgeline, never crested warm when applying keep the boulders and working in the wet concrete grout they used big environment. Although large rocks, workers equipment to move the riprap by hand. had to manipulate days with no sun,” said “We had a lot of staff was still getting Monte Malik. “But it was cold, windy, and work done when miserable.” 4-22 — The 4-22 2013 Flood Several river restoration techniques, plants, including placement of boulders, to and tree trunks, were designed pools for control the flow of water, create banks, fish habitat, stabilize the river’s and prevent erosion. landscaped rows. to mimicnature,ratherthaninneat, shrubs weretransplantedinclumps along theriver’sedge. cut fromtreesintheareawereplanted banks, andnearly3,000willowstakes during thefloodwereinstalledalong balls thathadbeenwasheddownstream a naturalappearance.Treeswithroot road reconstructionefforts,toimpart materials, suchasrockssuppliedbythe Stantec, whodesigned therestoration highly engineered,”saidRandyWalshof to looklikeitwashighlydesignedand Image source:Kiewit Another exampleof theiterativedesignprocesswasexemplified at“theslide”areawestofDrake. 62 “Wedidn’twantit 61 Nativetreesand Park opensincrementally Rocky MountainNational Sept 18,10:00a.m. journalist reportingontherestoration. likely havetakendecades,”notedone CDOT crews,streamrecoverywould included cooperation between CDOT, project wasamonumentaltaskwhich “The BigThompsonRiverrestoration Colorado. project everundertakeninthestateof the largeststreamreconstruction The restorationeffortsrepresented like it.” continued, “butwedidn’twantittolook of onestretchtheriver.“Itis,”he 63 64 “Withoutremediationby 1,183 people arerescuedinLarimer County; 139 areunaccountedfor Sept 19,12:25p.m. 65

should becomethetemplate forfuture “The collaborativeprocessthatoccurred biologist forColoradoParksandWildlife. Wildlife,” saidJeffSpohn,senioraquatic Service, andColoradoParks Coalition, theUnitedStatesForest Park, theBigThompsonWatershed the CityofLoveland,Estes and miserable.” done whenitwascold,windy, “Staff wasstillgettingwork US 34BigThompson Canyon The River Construction Manager and theRoad —4-23 Monte Malik 2013 Flood

68 Jake Ruthven, Jake Ruthven, 67 69 Monte Malik reinforced this sentiment, Monte Malik reinforced many naysayers noting there were “We when the restoration first started. but worked through two tough winters, the results. people were very happy with Kiewit, In the end, the team [CDOT, on their Jacobs Engineering] delivered promise.” the flood and what we wanted to do was wanted to do and what we the flood back,” said Walsh. give them the river about going back in “Restoration isn’t “It’s using the past time,” he explained. future.” to manage the All of the potential permanent repair All of the potential permanent were solutions identified for US 34 agencies vetted with organizations and and involved in restoring the corridor, The input from residents was critical. as an design process has been hailed outstanding example of collaboration among stakeholders. Tom Donnelly, noted, Larimer County Commissioner, of “One of the great success stories this project is really the collaboration between at least three different levels of government, our private contractors, an aquatic biologist with Colorado Parks an aquatic biologist “It’s like a new river, and Wildlife, added, see how far it’s come.” and it’s cool to

66 Sept 20, 10:00 a.m. CDOT announces goal to CDOT temporarily open roads by Dec 1 Monte Malik Monte Construction Manager Construction Today, signs of the Today, signs of to 2013 destruction the both the river and road have essentially vanished. Unbeknownst driving to travelers now through Big Thompson Canyon, the beautiful, post-reconstruction landscape they see was intentionally designed to be more resilient to floods. “People suffered greatly from river restoration river restoration projects,” he advised. US 34 Big Thompson Canyon 34 Big Thompson US Image source: Kiewit “We to move large rocks, used big equipment but work crews had to manipulate the riprap by hand and keep the rocks warm when applying concrete grout.” Sept 20, 9:30 a.m. Sheriff’s Office announces Drake man is presumed dead Drake and the Road and River River 4-24 — The 4-24 The design process has been hailed as an outstanding example of collaboration among stakeholders. among of collaboration example as an outstanding has been hailed process The design 2013 Flood for residentswasundoubtedly the The mostdifficultpart oftheexperience or safetystudy.” that couldnotbegleanedfromatraffic residents, “Theyhadsafetyknowledge to thesolutions.Kueselsaidof and observations,residentscontributed flood events.Bysharingtheirconcerns regarding theriver’sbehaviorduring the resultsofhydraulicmodel affected them.Residentsalsovalidated awareness ofhowdesigndecisions in thecanyon,notingteam’sacute worked withstakeholdersandresidents how closelytheUS34projectteam ourselves.” any oneofthosecouldhavedoneby that wasmuchgreaterthan rallied togethertodosomething and ourcitizens—reallyall Restoration effortsmadeuseofexistingand nativematerials. 70 VelvetKueselrecollected 71

Image source:J. Berna Rescues taper off; 1,191 rescued, 82 are unaccounted forinLarimerCounty Sept 20,11:45a.m. engineered.” highly designedand river] tolooklikeitwas didn’t want[the “We would havetoreduce the scopeofroad road duringconstruction meantthey duration tomaintaintrafficonthe steep costofextendingtheconstruction close theroadasecondtime,but his job.Theteamhadnotplannedto closure asthemostchallengingpartof Usher recallsimplementingthesecond limited accessforresidents.James spans oflong-termroadclosuresand The repairsrequiredtwoeight-month construction ofthepermanentrepairs. two seasonalclosuresofUS34for Randy Walsh Stantec Image source:Jacobs Search-and-rescue teamshave searched 7,724 structures Sept 20,11:45a.m. with theSouthPlatte. from theOlympusDamtoBig Thompson’s confluence focused onthelong-termsustainability ofthewatershed over $10millionandcomplete10riverrestorationprojects five yearsthatfollowedtheflood,coalitionwouldraise Thompson Watershed Coalition. the ColoradoWater ConservationBoardformedtheBig with theNaturalResources ConservationServiceand government officials,andrecreationalusersworking Soon aftertheflood,agroupofpropertyowners,local our communitytodayandforfuturegenerations.” Big ThompsonWatershed fortheuseandenjoymentof was to“protectandrestoretheecologicalhealthof Big ThompsonWatershed Coalition The 84 River 82 Thecoalition’s mission and theRoad —4-25 83 Inthe 2013 Flood

73 we saw how much we could get we saw how much we could get safer done with big equipment in a they manner.” The team did the best could to limit residents’ difficulties. was “Communication with everyone key,” Malik said. “And once residents on, saw how much work was going and saw things being built, they saw the human side of the issues do is we were facing. The work we to personal; people were so happy see us working up there.” Missing Drake Missing Drake man is found alive Sept 23, 2:00 p.m. Monte Malik agreed. 72 improvements to meet the budget. improvements to meet the budget. idea of the “Initially, I didn’t support the one second closure, because the first Usher said. was tough on the residents,” But “I could put myself in their shoes. for the ultimately it was the right thing the road project. By saving money with back closure, we were able to put money into the road.” “A lot of people were critical of the “A lot of people were critical of second closure. But during Construction Phase One, which was the first winter closure with limited residential access, Sept 22, 6:30 p.m. as missing in Larimer County Six people are officially listed Jake Ruthven Jake and the Road and Colorado Parks and Wildlife Parks and Colorado River River “It’s like a new river, and it’s like a new river, and it’s “It’s come.” cool to see how far it’s 4-26 — The 4-26 2013 Flood I gettomakeapositiveimpact.” people andthenmakethemhappen; brainstorm solutionswithallkindsof career,” saidMonteMalik.“Igetto staff. “Icouldn’thavepickedabetter part oftherecoveryprocessforCDOT This personalconnectionwasthebest of thecollaborationbetweenallparties Similarly, JamesUsherismostproud Today, signsofthe2013destruction toboththeriverandroadhave essentiallyvanished. 74

Last missing personinLarimer Sept 24,10:30a.m. County isfound alive recover fasterafterthenextflood.” the roadismoreresilient,andwewill final product,andI’mconfidentthat the endofday,wecreatedagreat happy aboutwhatwasgoingon.Butat There weretimeswhennoteveryonewas ground tocomeupwithagreatproduct. coming togetherandfindingmiddle involved. “Thebestpartwaseveryone material can beusedtorebuild roads Lake Estesislowered sobottomfill 75 Sept 26,2:45p.m. or threemonths,”shesaid.Aneighbor long withbiglights,probablyfortwo was rockcrushinggoingonallnight efforts. “Whentheyfirststartedit,there recalled theeffectsofconstruction of 2016.A32-yearresidentDrake permanent repairsbeganinthesummer 24, 2018,justshyoftwoyearsafterthe CDOT officiallyreopenedUS34onMay The River and theRoad —4-27 Image source:Jacobs 2013 Flood

And 77 94 89 76 675 4,000 Base Installed Drainage Pipe Linear Feet New Tons Asphalt Road Tons “You deserve a pat “You deserve a on the back.” 88 93 475 20,000 Improvements Between Rocks Linear Feet River Cubic Yards Grout Cubic Yards added, “You see a road getting fixed from fixed getting road a see “You added, and you live on it time, but until time to up and down constantly going see them give them credit. the road, you don’t and night.” They worked morning one particularly appreciative resident one particularly more than 4,000 estimates she baked crews. “Thanks cookies for construction a sign next to her to all,” proclaimed the highway opening. baked goods at Image source: Loveland Reporter-Herald May 24, 2018 US 34 officially reopens 87 92 8,800 Cubic Yards 95,000 Beneath Road Rock Installed Rock Tons Rock Installed Rock Tons 91 86 Image source: CDOT The personal connection was the best part of the recovery process. the recovery best part of was the connection The personal

95 70,000 32,000 Drake Resident Drake Cubic Yards Material Cubic Yards Material Excavated Removed from River Removed Cubic Yards Road Base Road Cubic Yards 90 85 Sept 27, 9:00 a.m. “You see a road getting fixed until from time to time, but them you live on it and see constantly going up and down give them the road, you don’t worked morning credit. They and night.” County-wide long-term flood recovery group meets in Loveland 3,500 15,000 Square Yards Asphalt Removed Cubic Yards Subbase Cubic Yards and Topsoil Crushed and Topsoil and the Road and

River River

Repair Cost Repair Estimated Total 587,000 Construction Hours Construction Hours

Without an Accident $240 Million Image source: Kiewit Image source: 4-28 — The 4-28 2013 Flood Image source: Jacobs The River and theRoad —4-29 2013 Flood colorado-flood-boulder-climate-change-drought-fires/. e, Colorado. e, Colorado. June 27. https://dspace.library.colostate.edu/bitstream/handle/10217/167355/Dun- e, Colorado. June 27. . July 17. https://dspace.library.colostate.edu/bitstream/handle/10217/167367/NilssonErikTranscript. . July 17. https://dspace.library.colostate.edu/bitstream/handle/10217/167367/NilssonErikTranscript. -ways-that-colorados-flood-is-the-worst-the-region-has-ever-seen/. -ways-that-colorados-flood-is-the-worst-the-region-has-ever-seen/; Scott, Michon. 2013. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administra- -ways-that-colorados-flood-is-the-worst-the-region-has-ever-seen/. ress, Charleston, SC; Ferreira, Colleen and Blair Shiff. 2014. 1 Year Later: Recovering After the Rivers Raged. 9News 11 September. https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/1-year-later-recovering- 11 September. 9News After the Rivers Raged. Later: Recovering 1 Year 2014. ress, Charleston, SC; Ferreira, Colleen and Blair Shiff. ragic Flooding. . September 28. https://www.denverpost.com/2013/09/28/big-thompson-canyon-struck-again-by-tragic-flooding/. September 28. The Denver Post. ragic Flooding. everberations of a Flash Flood, 40 Years Later. Weather Underground. July 29. https://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/the-big-thompson-disaster-reverberations-of-a-flash-flood-40-years-l.html. 29. Underground. July Weather Later. 40 Years everberations of a Flash Flood, everberations of a Flash Flood, 40 Years Later. Weather Underground. July 29. https://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/the-big-thompson-disaster-reverberations-of-a-flash-flood-40-years-l.html. Underground. July 29. Weather Later. everberations of a Flash Flood, 40 Years ath Away from Floodwaters. Scientific American. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/colorado-charts-a-new-path-away-from-floodwaters/. American. from Floodwaters. Scientific ath Away https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/colorado-charts-a-new-path-away-from-floodwaters/. American. from Floodwaters. Scientific ath Away eveals Deeper Issues with Flood Recovery. May 6. http://www.cpr.org/news/story/big-thompson-fish-kill-reveals-deeper-issues-flood-recovery. http://www.cpr.org/news/story/big-thompson-fish-kill-reveals-deeper-issues-flood-recovery. May 6. Recovery. eveals Deeper Issues with Flood oman, 79, Found Dead in Big Thompson Flood. http://denver.cbslocal.com/2013/09/23/officials-woman-79-found-dead-in-big-thompson-flood/. oman, 79, Found Dead in Big Thompson Flood. and the Road and . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood Oral History Collection. Interview by Mitchell Schaefer with Erik Nilsson, Larimer County Emergency Manager . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood Oral History Collection. Interview . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood Oral History Collection. Interview by Zach Lewis and Naomi Gerakios with Carolyn and Gilbert Dunning of Drak Oral History Collection. Interview by Zach Lewis and Naomi Gerakios . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood Nilsson, Larimer County Emergency Manager Oral History Collection. Interview by Mitchell Schaefer with Erik . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood https://dspace.library.colostate.edu/bitstream/handle/10217/167358/GdovicakJason- Glen Haven, Colorado. July 7. Fire Chief, Volunteer Oral History Collection. Interview by Zach Lewis with Jason Gdovicak, . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood Oral History Collection. Interview by Zach Lewis and Naomi Gerakios with Carolyn and Gilbert Dunning of Drak . 2014. Northern Colorado Flood Oral History Collection. Interview by Zach Lewis and Naomi Gerakios with Carolyn and Gilbert T US 34 Big Thompson Canyon Construction Engineer. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 18. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. T US 34 Big Thompson Canyon Construction Engineer. T US 34 Big Thompson Canyon Construction Engineer. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 18. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. T US 34 Big Thompson Canyon Construction Engineer. Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 18. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. T US 34 Big Thompson Canyon Construction Engineer. T Region 4 Planning and Environmental Manager. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 20. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Environmental Manager. 4 Planning and T Region T Region 4 Planning and Environmental Manager. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 20. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Environmental Manager. 4 Planning and T Region Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 20. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Environmental Manager. 4 Planning and T Region . 2016. Big Thompson Canyon Floods of 1976 and 2013: A Tale of Two Deadly and Destructive Weather Events. July 25. https://www.usgs.gov/news/big-thompson-canyon-floods-1976-and-2013-tale-two-deadly-and-destructive-weather-events. Events. July 25. Weather Deadly and Destructive of Two of 1976 and 2013: A Tale . 2016. Big Thompson Canyon Floods . 2017. Recovery in Colorado: The Latest on the 2013 Floods. http://www.manitouspringsgov.com/library/documents/Flood_Recovery/2017-04-20_Recovery_in_Colorado__The_Latest_on_the_2013_Floods.pdf. Latest on the 2013 Floods. in Colorado: The . 2017. Recovery River River evin. 2014. Recovering after Rivers Rage. The Coloradoan. September 9. https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/local/2014/09/05/september-flood-anniversary-colorado/15151647/. September 9. The Coloradoan. after Rivers Rage. evin. 2014. Recovering evin. 2014. Recovering after Rivers Rage. The Coloradoan. September 9. https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/local/2014/09/05/september-flood-anniversary-colorado/15151647/. The Coloradoan. September 9. after Rivers Rage. evin. 2014. Recovering evin. 2014. Recovering after Rivers Rage. The Coloradoan. September 9. https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/local/2014/09/05/september-flood-anniversary-colorado/15151647/. September 9. The Coloradoan. after Rivers Rage. evin. 2014. Recovering , Jason. 2013 Colorado’s “biblical” flood by the numbers. The Washington Post. September 16. https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/capital-weather-gang/wp/2013/09/16/colorados-biblical-flood-by-the-numbers/?utm_term=.0aef88a163e6. https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/capital-weather-gang/wp/2013/09/16/colorados-biblical-flood-by-the-numbers/?utm_term=.0aef88a163e6. 16. September Post. numbers. The Washington “biblical” flood by the , Jason. 2013 Colorado’s , John. 2014. Colorado Re-Emerging from $2.9 Billion Flood Disaster a Year Later. Daily Camera. September 8. http://www.govtech.com/em/disaster/Colorado-Re-Emerging-Flood-Disaster-Year-Later.html. Daily Camera. September 8. Later. from $2.9 Billion Flood Disaster a Year , John. 2014. Colorado Re-Emerging , John. 2014. Colorado Re-Emerging from $2.9 Billion Flood Disaster a Year Later. Daily Camera. September 8. http://www.govtech.com/em/disaster/Colorado-Re-Emerging-Flood-Disaster-Year-Later.html. http://www.govtech.com/em/disaster/Colorado-Re-Emerging-Flood-Disaster-Year-Later.html. Daily Camera. September 8. Later. from $2.9 Billion Flood Disaster a Year , John. 2014. Colorado Re-Emerging , Ryan Maye. 2014. Trout population hit hard by flood restoration. The Coloradoan. October 27. https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2014/10/27/trout-disappearing-from-rivers-following-2013-colorado-floods/18029579/. population hit hard by flood restoration. The Coloradoan. October 27. , Ryan Maye. 2014. Trout , Ryan Maye. 2014. Trout population hit hard by flood restoration. The Coloradoan. October 30. https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2014/10/27/trout-disappearing-from-rivers-following-2013-colorado-floods/18029579/. population hit hard by flood restoration. The Coloradoan. October 30. , Ryan Maye. 2014. Trout https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2014/10/27/trout-disappearing-from-rivers-following-2013-colorado-floods/18029579/. population hit hard by flood restoration. The Coloradoan. October 30. , Ryan Maye. 2014. Trout , James. CDOT US 34 Project Manager. Interview with Laura Meyer and P. Steinholtz, Jacobs. March 20. P. Interview with Laura Meyer and Manager. US 34 Project , James. CDOT A Forest Service. 2014. Our Relationship with a Dynamic Landscape: Understanding the 2013 Northern Colorado Flood. Science You Can Use Bulletin. Issue 10. March/April 2014. https://www.fs.fed.us/rm/science-application-integration/docs/science-you-can- Can Use Bulletin. Issue 10. March/April 2014. the 2013 Northern Colorado Flood. Science You with a Dynamic Landscape: Understanding A Forest Service. 2014. Our Relationship A Forest Service. 2014. Our Relationship with a Dynamic Landscape: Understanding the 2013 Northern Colorado Flood. Science You Can Use Bulletin. Issue 10. March/April 2014. https://www.fs.fed.us/rm/science-application-integration/docs/science-you-can- 2014. Use Bulletin. Issue 10. March/April Can Colorado Flood. Science You Understanding the 2013 Northern with a Dynamic Landscape: 2014. Our Relationship A Forest Service. T. n.d. US 34 Big Thompson Canyon. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1. Canyon. n.d. US 34 Big Thompson T. T. n.d. US 34 Big Thompson Canyon. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1; CDOT. 2016. US 34 Project Update. April. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1/april-2016-pub- 2016. US 34 Project CDOT. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1; n.d. US 34 Big Thompson Canyon. T. T. 2016. US 34 Project Update. April. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1/april-2016-public-meeting-materials/presentation-us-34-april-public-meetings.pdf. 2016. US 34 Project T. T. 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson Permanent Repair Project Estes Park to Loveland. Project Number 0341-084, Project Code 20279. March. Code 20279. Number 0341-084, Project to Loveland. Project Estes Park Project Repair Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson Permanent 2016. Categorical T. Code 20279. March. Number 0341-084, Project to Loveland. Project Estes Park Project Repair Thompson Permanent 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big T. T. 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson Permanent Repair Project Estes Park to Loveland. March. Estes Park Project Repair Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson Permanent 2016. Categorical T. T. 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson Permanent Repair Project Estes Park to Loveland. Project Number 0341-084, Project Code 20279. March. Number 0341-084, Project to Loveland. Project Estes Park Project Repair Thompson Permanent 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big T. https://www. n.d. US 34 Big Thompson Canyon. Update. April. https://www.codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1/april-2016-public-meeting-materials/presentation-us-34-april-public-meetings.pdf; CDOT. 2016. US 34 Project T. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHwbOGEegMY. May 29. to Resiliency. 2018. US 34 Big Thompson Canyon: 2013-2018—The Road T. reston, Jennifer. 2013. Aerial Video of Devastation by Colorado Floods. The New York Times. September 14. https://thelede.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/09/14/aerial-video-footage-of-devastation-by-colorado-floods/. Times. September 14. Floods. The New York 2013. Aerial Video of Devastation by Colorado reston, Jennifer. eporter-Herald Staff. 2018. The 2013 Flood: A timeline. Reporter-Herald. September 8. http://www.reporterherald.com/news/colorado-flood/ci_32124713/2013-flood-timeline. http://www.reporterherald.com/news/colorado-flood/ci_32124713/2013-flood-timeline. September 8. 2018. The 2013 Flood: A timeline. Reporter-Herald. Staff. eporter-Herald tion. Historic Rainfall and Floods in Colorado. September 17. https://www.climate.gov/news-features/event-tracker/historic-rainfall-and-floods-colorado. https://www.climate.gov/news-features/event-tracker/historic-rainfall-and-floods-colorado. and Floods in Colorado. September 17. tion. Historic Rainfall pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. codot.gov/projects/floodrelatedprojects/us-34-big-thompson-canyon-1. pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. after-the-rivers-raged/73-249868668. use/2014-03.pdf; Henson, Bob. 2016. The Big Thompson Disaster: Reverberations of a Flash Flood, 40 Years Later. Weather Underground. July 29. https://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/the-big-thompson-disaster-reverberations-of-a-flash-flood-40-years-l. Underground. July 29. Weather Later. of a Flash Flood, 40 Years Henson, Bob. 2016. The Big Thompson Disaster: Reverberations use/2014-03.pdf; html. lic-meeting-materials/presentation-us-34-april-public-meetings.pdf; CDOT. 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson Permanent Repair Project Estes Park to Loveland. Project Number 0341-084, Project Code 20279. March. 0341-084, Project Number to Loveland. Project Estes Park Project Repair Permanent 2016. Categorical Exclusion US 34 Big Thompson lic-meeting-materials/presentation-us-34-april-public-meetings.pdf; CDOT. ningCarolynandGibTranscript.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. ningCarolynandGibTranscript.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. Transcript.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. Transcript.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. use/2014-03.pdf. use/2014-03.pdf. US Geological Survey Fish Kill R Hood, Grace. 2016. Big Thompson Duggan, K CDO CDO P Holthaus, Eric. 2013. All the ways that Colorado’s flood is the worst the region has ever seen. Quartz. https://qz.com/124994/all-the that Colorado’s flood is the worst the region has ever seen. Quartz. Holthaus, Eric. 2013. All the ways Disaster: R Henson, Bob. 2016. The Big Thompson Holthaus, Eric. 2013. All the ways that Colorado’s flood is the worst the region has ever seen. Quartz. https://qz.com/124994/all-the has ever seen. Quartz. flood is the worst the region All the ways that Colorado’s Holthaus, Eric. 2013. Malik, Monte. 2019. CDO Eussen, Jim. 2019. CDO CDO Eussen, Jim. 2019. CDO Cusick, Daniel. 2018. Colorado Charts a New P Aguilar Usher Eussen, Jim. 2019. CDO Cusick, Daniel. 2018. Colorado Charts a New P Aguilar Moreno, Ivan. 2013. Officials: W Urbina, Molly Handy R Henson, Bob. 2016. The Big Thompson Disaster: R CDO P Dollman, Darla Sue. 2017. Colorado’s Deadliest Floods. The History Colorado State University CDO Howard, Brian Clark. 2013. Amid Drought, Explaining Colorado’s Extreme Floods. National Geographic. September 13. https://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/09/130913- September 13. Drought, Explaining Colorado’s Extreme Floods. National Geographic. Howard, Brian Clark. 2013. Amid Colorado State University Colorado State University CDO USD Samenow CDO Malik, Monte. 2019. CDO Malik, Monte. 2019. CDO Duggan, K Handy Handy CDO CDO Colorado State University Gorski, Eric. 2016. Big Thompson Canyon Struck Again by T Holthaus, Eric. 2013. All the ways that Colorado’s flood is the worst the region has ever seen. Quartz. https://qz.com/124994/all-the has ever seen. Quartz. flood is the worst the region All the ways that Colorado’s Holthaus, Eric. 2013. USD Duggan, K Colorado State University

11 10 6 7 9 12 5 8 40 44 27 33 38 34 23 31 32 35 36 37 25 28 30 4 17 18 21 24 26 29 15 19 22 14 13 16 45 46 47 43 41 42 39 20 2 Endnotes 1 3 48 4-30 — The 4-30 2013 Flood 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 , James.CDOT US34Project Manager.53 InterviewwithLauraMeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March20. 52 51 50 49 82 81 80 85 83 70 69 68 66 65 64 63 62 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 84 67

F Hindi, Saja.2018.‘ Colorado StateUniversity Urbina,Molly Cusick,Daniel.2018.ColoradoChartsaNewP Johnson,P Simpson,K Usher Malik,Monte.2019.CDO Malik,Monte.2019.CDO Usher K F Johnson,P Malik,Monte.2019.CDO Malik,Monte.2019.CDO Cusick,Daniel.2018.ColoradoChartsaNewP Usher K Cusick,Daniel.2018.ColoradoChartsaNewP K K K K Usher R Lupher Lupher Lupher Hindi, Saja.2018.‘ Bloom,Matt.2018.DriversR Bloom,Matt.2018.DriversR Bloom,Matt.2018.DriversR Bloom,Matt.2018.DriversR Bloom,Matt.2018.DriversR Bloom,Matt.2018.DriversR F BTWC.2018.MissionandV CDO Malik,Monte.2019.CDO Bush,Stan.2018.BigThompsonRiverFishExaminedAfterHarmfulHighway34W Johnson,P R Bush,Stan.2018.BigThompsonRiverFishExaminedAfterHarmfulHighway34W Bush,Stan.2018.BigThompsonRiverFishExaminedAfterHarmfulHighway34W Johnson,P Johnson,P http://www.bigthompson.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/BT-Annual-Report-proof-edits-nobleed.pdf. eporter-Herald. 2018.The2013Flood:Atimeline.September8.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/colorado-flood/ci_32124713/2013-flood-timeline. ryer, Brian.2017.Post-Flood Restoration CreatesaMoreResilient BigThompsonRiver. October5. https://www.enr.com/articles/42949-flood-restoration-creates-a-more-resilient-big-thompson-river. ryer, Brian.2017.Post-Flood Restoration CreatesaMoreResilient BigThompsonRiver. October5. https://www.enr.com/articles/42949-flood-restoration-creates-a-more-resilient-big-thompson-river. ryer, Brian.2017.Post-Flood Restoration CreatesaMoreResilient BigThompsonRiver. October5. https://www.enr.com/articles/42949-flood-restoration-creates-a-more-resilient-big-thompson-river; BigThompsonWatershed Coalition.n.d.2017-2018AnnualReport. uesel, Velvet. 2018.InterviewbyLauraMeyer, JacobsEngineering. October31. uesel, Velvet. 2018.InterviewbyLauraMeyer, JacobsEngineering. October31;Usher, James.CDOT US34Project Manager. InterviewwithLauraMeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs. March20. uesel, Velvet. 2018.InterviewbyLauraMeyer, JacobsEngineering. October31. uesel, Velvet. 2018.InterviewbyLauraMeyer, JacobsEngineering. October31. uesel, Velvet. 2018.InterviewbyLauraMeyer, JacobsEngineering. October31. uesel, Velvet. 2018.InterviewbyLauraMeyer, JacobsEngineering. October31. ose, Theresa. 2018. Big Thompson Canyon stream restoration project nearly complete. North Forty News. November 17. https://northfortynews.com/big-thompson-canyon-stream-restoration-project-nearly-complete/. ose, Theresa.2018.BigThompsonCanyonstreamrestorationprojectnearlycomplete.NorthFortyNews.November17. https://northfortynews.com/big-thompson-canyon-stream-restoration-project-nearly-complete/. T. 2018.US34BigThompsonCanyon:2013-2018—TheRoad toResiliency. May 29. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHwbOGEegMY. , James.CDOT US34Project Manager. InterviewwithLauraMeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March20. , James.CDOT US34Project Manager. InterviewwithLauraMeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March20. , James.CDOT US34Project Manager. InterviewwithLauraMeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March20. , Eric.2018.US34throughBigThompsonCanyontoopenforgoodThursday. TheDenverChannel.https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/us-34-through-big-thompson-canyon-to-open-for-good-thursday. , Eric.2018.US34throughBigThompsonCanyontoopenforgoodThursday. TheDenverChannel.https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/us-34-through-big-thompson-canyon-to-open-for-good-thursday. , Eric.2018.US34throughBigThompsonCanyontoopenforgoodThursday. TheDenverChannel.https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/us-34-through-big-thompson-canyon-to-open-for-good-thursday. amela. 2018.Residents, dignitariescelebrateU.S. 34reopeningwithcookies,kudos. Reporter-Herald. May31.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/larimer-county/ci_31914815/residents-dignitaries-celebrate-canyon-road-cookies-kudos. amela. 2017.Restoration projectcompletedonBigThompsonRiver. July23.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/larimer-county/ci_31162469/restoration-project-completed-big-thompson-river. amela. 2017.Restoration projectcompletedonBigThompsonRiver. July23.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/larimer-county/ci_31162469/restoration-project-completed-big-thompson-river. amela. 2017.Restoration projectcompletedonBigThompsonRiver. July23.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/larimer-county/ci_31162469/restoration-project-completed-big-thompson-river. amela. 2017.Restoration projectcompletedonBigThompsonRiver. July23.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/larimer-county/ci_31162469/restoration-project-completed-big-thompson-river. evin. 2018.CommunityconnectedtotheworldbyU.S. 34celebratestheroad’sreopeningafter2013floods.TheDenverPost. May24. https://www.denverpost.com/2018/05/24/us-34-reopening-loveland/. . 2017.Recovery inColorado:TheLatestonthe2013Floods. http://www.manitouspringsgov.com/library/documents/Flood_Recovery/2017-04-20_Recovery_in_Colorado__The_Latest_on_the_2013_Floods.pdf. We’re done’:NewandimprovedU.S. 34openstothepublic.May23.https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2018/05/23/us-34-reopens-after-permanent-2013-flood-repairs-big-thompson-canyon-colorado/633963002/. We’re done’:NewandimprovedU.S. 34openstothepublic.May 23. https://www.coloradoan.com/story/news/2018/05/23/us-34-reopens-after-permanent-2013-flood-repairs-big-thompson-canyon-colorado/633963002/. . 2014.NorthernColoradoFloodOralHistoryCollection.InterviewbyNaomiGerakioswithKimCampassi.August21.https://mountainscholar T US34BigThompsonCanyonConstructionEngineer. InterviewwithLaura MeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March18. T US34BigThompsonCanyonConstructionEngineer. InterviewwithLaura MeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March18. T US34BigThompsonCanyonConstructionEngineer. InterviewwithLaura MeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March18. T US34BigThompsonCanyonConstructionEngineer. InterviewwithLaura MeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March18. T US34BigThompsonCanyonConstructionEngineer. InterviewwithLaura MeyerandP. Steinholtz,Jacobs.March18. alues. http://www.bigthompson.co/vision-mission-statement/. ejoice: US34BetweenLovelandAndEstesPark Reopening Permanently. May21. https://www.kunc.org/post/drivers-rejoice-us-34-between-loveland-and-estes-park-reopening-permanently#stream/0. ejoice: US34BetweenLovelandAndEstesPark Reopening Permanently. May21. https://www.kunc.org/post/drivers-rejoice-us-34-between-loveland-and-estes-park-reopening-permanently#stream/0. ejoice: US34BetweenLovelandAndEstesPark Reopening Permanently. May21. https://www.kunc.org/post/drivers-rejoice-us-34-between-loveland-and-estes-park-reopening-permanently#stream/0. ejoice: US34BetweenLovelandAndEstesPark Reopening Permanently. May21. https://www.kunc.org/post/drivers-rejoice-us-34-between-loveland-and-estes-park-reopening-permanently#stream/0. ejoice: US34BetweenLovelandAndEstesPark Reopening Permanently. May21. https://www.kunc.org/post/drivers-rejoice-us-34-between-loveland-and-estes-park-reopening-permanently#stream/0. ejoice: US34BetweenLovelandAndEstesPark Reopening Permanently. May21. https://www.kunc.org/post/drivers-rejoice-us-34-between-loveland-and-estes-park-reopening-permanently#stream/0. ath Away fromFloodwaters.ScientificAmerican.May25. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/colorado-charts-a-new-path-away-from-floodwaters/. ath Away fromFloodwaters.ScientificAmerican. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/colorado-charts-a-new-path-away-from-floodwaters/. ath Away fromFloodwaters.ScientificAmerican. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/colorado-charts-a-new-path-away-from-floodwaters/. ork. CBSDenver. October29. https://denver.cbslocal.com/2018/10/29/big-thompson-river-fish-examined/. ork. CBSDenver. October29. https://denver.cbslocal.com/2018/10/29/big-thompson-river-fish-examined/. ork. CBSDenver. October29. https://denver.cbslocal.com/2018/10/29/big-thompson-river-fish-examined/. .org/handle/10217/167348. The River and theRoad —4-31 2013 Flood and the Road and River River 4-32 — The 4-32 2013 Flood The River and the Road — 5-1 The Future

Although flooding on the Northern Front Range is not uncommon,

widespread, highly destructive floods such as the 2013 event are much rarer. Image source: Kiewit “You haven’t reduced the

However, the implication that events of variation in these streams,”1 she future risk just because you’ve of this magnitude occur only once said. Research economist Patty Champ already experienced an event.” every 500 years (as in the case of the further warns, “the implication here is Big Thompson River) may be “very that, after having survived one ‘1,000- misleading,” according to research year event,’ you’re off the hook for the Patty Champ next 1,000 years. This is decidedly geomorphologist Sandra Ryan-Burkett. Research Economist “Many of the streams in the Front Range not the case: You haven’t reduced the have not been gauged for very many future risk just because you’ve already years or decades, so we lack information experienced an event.”2 about the long-term historical range 5 James 4 ” U.S. Forest Service Forest U.S. Usher, CDOT US 34 Project Director, Usher, CDOT US 34 Project Director, created reiterated this perspective. “We confident a great final product, and I’m and we that the road is more resilient, flood.” will recover faster after the next one knows for sure, but the highway is one knows for sure, but the highway in much better condition to withstand built out the next beating. “There’s walls of soil of stone. There’s walls built out explained and cement under the road,” of Scott Cassels, executive vice president contractor. Kiewit, the 2013 construction get to “Those are the things you don’t comes, see, but the next time the flood we’ll see resilience and access.” 3 “While to have flooding appears Colorado northern the 2013 in have been unprecedented it may only been unprecedented, that it caused to communities and related the degree of damage runoff. terms of the underlying rainfall and infrastructure, not in Image source: CDOT Image source: “all of this means that, while the 2013 “all of this means that, while appears to northern Colorado flooding may only have been unprecedented, it the degree have been unprecedented in of damage that it caused to communities in terms and related infrastructure, not runoff.” of the underlying rainfall and how With this understanding in mind, next flood will US 34 hold up when the No pummels the canyon once again?

and the Road and River River A warming climate may make flooding events worse, if not more frequent. A warming climate may make The 5-2 — The Future may In addition, a warming climate flooding make extreme precipitation and events worse, if not more frequent. Because warmer air holds more events moisture, large precipitation could become even more extensive. However, the latest climate projections flooding do not clearly indicate whether risk on the Front Range will increase. Service According to the U.S. Forest Rocky Mountain Research Station, 5 4 3 2 1 Endnotes

Usher Johnson, P U U U .S. ForestService.n.d.Ourrelationshipwithadynamiclandscape:Understandingthe2013NorthernColoradoFlood.Rocky MountainResearch Station.https://www.fs.fed.us/rmrs/our-relationship-dynamic-landscape-understanding-2013-northern-colorado-flood. .S. ForestService.n.d.Ourrelationshipwithadynamiclandscape:Understandingthe2013NorthernColoradoFlood.Rocky MountainResearch Station.https://www.fs.fed.us/rmrs/our-relationship-dynamic-landscape-understanding-2013-northern-colorado-flood. .S. ForestService.n.d.Ourrelationshipwithadynamiclandscape:Understandingthe2013NorthernColoradoFlood.Rocky MountainResearch Station.https://www.fs.fed.us/rmrs/our-relationship-dynamic-landscape-understanding-2013-northern-colorado-flood. , James.2019.CDOT US34Project Manager. InterviewwithLauraMeyerandPatti Steinholtz,Jacobs.March20. amela. 2018.Residents, dignitariescelebrateU.S. 34reopeningwithcookies,kudos. Reporter-Herald. May31.http://www.reporterherald.com/news/larimer-county/ci_31914815/residents-dignitaries-celebrate-canyon-road-cookies-kudos. The River and theRoad —5-3 The Future This book is dedicated to the people who lost their lives in the Big Thompson Canyon floods of 1976 and 2013, and to Scott Ellis, late CDOT Region 4 Resident Engineer and first 2013 post-flood Project Manager.