Around Kangaroo Valley

The Kangaroo Valley is one of ’s most beautiful: scooped out by river erosion, clothed in lush farmland and fringed with forest. Reputed to be one of only seven fully-enclosed valleys in the world, it nestles between the Southern Highlands escarpment and the Cambewarra range that separates it from the coastal plain.

This valley offers a great range of possibilities for walkers. Those who want more than a stroll through its historic village don’t have to travel far, with a walk exploring Kangaroo River and tributary creeks starting just beyond Hampden Bridge. Upper Kangaroo Valley has, if possible, even more scenic charm with its swimming holes, rainforest and waterfalls. At Fitzroy Falls the latter get really serious, along with the views. Longer walks deep into open up other vistas, including over Lake Yarrunga and the . You’ll need a car to access these more remote walks, along with suitable protection from the elements: Kangaroo Valley experiences, as the tourist guide puts it, ‘distinct seasons’.

67 12 Kangaroo River Nature Reserve

12 Kangaroo River Walk directions

Nature Reserve From the museum 1 office, walk through The lower reaches of Kangaroo the grounds to the early River have been tamed forever by At a glance settler’s hut. Beyond this, cross the 70-metre suspen- Tallowa Dam but upstream – where Grade: Easy/medium sion bridge that spans the it still flows freely – it’s a particularly Time: 2 hrs gorge of Tannery Creek. beautiful waterway. The Kangaroo Distance: 4.5 km circuit River Nature Reserve, landlocked Conditions: Walk accessible At the junction, head and inaccessible by road, is a Fri-Mon and school holidays only; 2 left on the first of two hidden gem providing walkers with small entry fee to the museum; loops, waymarked with no barriers on lookouts; supervise red-and-white markers on access to a cliff-lined stretch of young children trees. A sign indicates you the river’s northern banks. Luckily Getting there: have entered Kangaroo for walkers, two paths from the Bus: 809/810 runs from Nowra River Nature Reserve Take the next left, and over the river to cliffs neighbouring Pioneer Museum to Kangaroo Valley, Mon-Fri; but the map suggests the 4 crossing a little opposite. Continuing above T 4421 7596 Park were waymarked before the boundary is further on. wooden bridge over Target the river you’ll reach a Car: From the centre of Kangaroo Watch carefully for a little Creek, now following red second lookdown, signed reserve existed; this route combines Valley village, cross Hampden side path leading steeply markers. You’ll soon reach on a tree as Lonely Sister them. The pools, moss gardens and Bridge and immediately turn left down the overgrown river a lookdown known as Lookout. From here you into the Pioneer Museum Park rock overhangs of little Nelsons bank to a beach. Tranquillity Tops, where can scramble down to Creek are added highlights of this there are views upstream lower rocks for a distant delightful walk. This is a great through tall eucalypts upstream glimpse of 3 place to take in the Hampden Bridge. riverside scenery and you can wander upstream a short way for a

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Bridge, probably k the most 0 100m photographed Target Creek bridge in rural 9 NSW. Return Vale Rd to the main 2 Swing path and Bridge turn left,

4 Moss following Pioneer 1 Farm high Museum P above8 the T river with Kangaroo 3 occasional Cheryl's 5 Hampden glimpses Beach River Bridge

below. TO KV VILLAGE & NOWRA

68 69 12 Kangaroo River Nature Reserve 12 Kangaroo River Nature Reserve

continue on the upstream higher up the bank, to path at creek level. The become the red-tagged waterway has carved out a Top Trail. small gorge, complete with interesting rock overhangs. Continue ahead at a The creek is pot-holed 8 junction with the and shade ensures that the ascending path from the rocks sport a healthy cover waterhole. Presently rejoin of moss. Pass below a large the outward route and cross mossy rock with the largest back over the little bridge rock orchid you’re ever (waypoint 4), turning left likely to see. (upstream) to complete the red-and-white loop. At a bend, a rock wall The vegetation changes 7 bars further progress markedly as the path winds so you must cross back through a scribbly gum

over the creek bedrock just forest and broadens into KAMBAH before reaching the de- a trail. Ignore a trail left Dr lightful Tom’s Waterhole, that leads to a farm gate on fringed by mossy rocks private property. Drakeford and rainforest foliage and backed by the sandstone As the trail curves D e L cliff. You may, if you’re 9 right, look for a foot- it tl patient, see the azure pad heading into bush left e

kingfisher that fishes here. of a coppiced tree. This Athllon Cr A sign on a tree says ‘Moss weaves through shrubs of St

Turn away from the A short downstream Garden - 5 minute circular kunzea and tea-tree, passes Dr Cct 5 river, following high 6 detour (no path, but walk’. This section is a tad private property signs and Grounds

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N above Nelsons Creek, fairly easy going) allows confusing, with the intro- then veers right to follow Taylor

which can be viewed from for close inspection of duction of yellow tags, but above Tannery Creek, Dr e 0 250m nearby rocks. The path rock overhangs where it heads further upstream, returning to the suspension c n

e soon splits into the second the creek bends. Return passing a healthy array of bridge. Cross the bridge r lo loop: keep left, heading to the crossing point and yellow rock orchids, and to return to the museum F downhill to cross then back, car park. Lewis Target Creek Ngadyung r e

Beach m the creek on Walk 24 i 9 t Vale Rd r

o rocks. Kangaroo River For families – What life was like M Dr Nature Reserve 2 Swing Nguru A visit to the PioneerBridge Museum Park, run by the Kangaroo Valley Historical Beach Nelsons Trail Society, will give you a great insight into the life and work of the valley’s early Canberra Lake OXLEY

4 Moss s farming families. The main1 building houses a collection of 19th-centuryNature fashion, Tuggeranong Park District s Tom's REFER TO tools and household items. Dotted around the one-hectare grounds are an Waterhole Moss Top 6 OTHER MAP Park Gardens 1870 homestead, a bushP school, a settler’s hut, a dairy, a forge and sheds Pioneer T exhibiting horse-drawn vehicles and early farm implements andAthllon machinery. N Farm Museum 8 Creek Kangaroo 3 Each building is wired for sound so you can hear about residents’ life stories Drakeford

5 RiverCheryl's and the items on display.Hampden Kids will love swinging on the suspension bridge, Cheryl's River Bridge 0 100m Beach Beach looking for fossils on the giant Selby Rock, running on the fun barrel and seeingP T the double-seated family loo.TO There are picnic tables, barbeques and toilets 7 KV VILLAGE and all buildings have wheelchair& NOWRA access. For opening times and entry fees, see 9 Kangaroo www.kangaroovalleymuseum.com.au GREENWAY Lake P Tuggeranong College

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Tuggeranong Reed St S Weir 17 Mt Ettalong Lookout 17 Mt Ettalong Lookout

72 73 13 Minnie Ha Ha 13 Minnie Ha Ha Falls and Flatrock Finding the track on the underside deliver a nasty sting. The footpad Falls and Flatrock From Kangaroo Valley soon leads to a low cascade village, cross Hampden on the creek. One of the loveliest short drives in Bridge and soon turn right the Shoalhaven wends upstream At a glance into Upper Kangaroo Continue alongside River Road. Drive for 14.3 the creek, the footpad of the Kangaroo River, penetrating 2 Grade: Medium/hard kilometres (the last few becoming more obscure. deep into the cliff-girt upper Time: 2 hrs 30 mins unpaved) and park at a Progress can be made on Kangaroo Valley to an idyllic spot Distance: 2.5 km circuit clearing on the left. the true right bank (that known unofficially as Flatrock, Conditions: Slippery rocks and is, the left as you walk Walk directions where the savvy locals come to stinging trees; no formed track upstream) combined with swim and picnic. Agile types adept rock-hopping in the creek. cascade. The footpad Walk down the road Look out for the superb climbs beside the creek at rock-hopping will be amply rewarded by this short walk following 1 towards the concrete bird’s-nest ferns and in sight of more cascades contributory Gibson Creek up to lovely Minnie Ha Ha Falls. Along the ford of Gibsons Creek elkhorns growing high in before veering left uphill way, try not to let the creek’s cascades and the lush rainforest scenery but do not cross it. At the the canopy on the opposite to join an old cedar-getters distract you from the task of staying upright while negotiating the many back of a tiny clearing on bank. trail. slippery rocks. your left, pick up a narrow footpad which follows the Shortly, you’ll reach Soon leave this to creek upstream. You are 3 a broad, two-tiered 4 descend again to the immediately immersed drop-off with several creek at a place where in a world of cool, dark threads of water flowing the opposite bank forms rainforest. Watch out for over it. After admiring the a low, sheer cliff. You are the large, flat leaves of the scene, continue clambering now in Budderoo National giant stinging tree, as hairs up the creek or its bank Park. After some more to reach a plunge pool scrambling – possibly below a 1.5-metre drop crossing to the other side off, above which of the creek once the Minnie Ha Ha Falls is another main waterfall is in sight – 5 carefully head for the base Gibson of the falls.

Budderoo National Park 4 Ford 3 N Creek

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74 75 13 Minnie Ha Ha Falls and Flatrock

as Flatrock and time would be well spent exploring your surroundings. Opposite loom the high cliffs of Budderoo Plateau. Just upstream is a long, deep swimming hole bordered by a rock ledge and below it an obvious place to cross the river, though you might need to take shoes off, being careful of slippery wet rock. On This is a very before you reach a the other side you can 5 impressive place, junction where you should head upstream by the river, particularly after rain, head left, steeply downhill following the river stones as Minnie Ha Ha Falls on a footpad that takes through the casuarinas plummet down the you back to the rear of and water gums. You’re in middle of a horseshoe the lay-by where your amphitheatre of rock car is parked. Now walk until a road ford is reached, into a small plunge pool. back down the road, this beyond which is private Near-permanent shadow time crossing over Gibson property. Return the same ensures the water in the Creek to reach the broad way or a little closer to the pool is always cold, even at rock platform where it towering cliffs. Back on the the height of summer. The joins the Kangaroo River. right bank you will have no best time for photographers trouble finding a good spot is late morning when This beautiful part by the river for a picnic there’s a chance of 7 of the river is known before returning to the car sunlight penetrating the locally and unsurprisingly for the second time. rainforest canopy. The falls are unnamed on the topographic map which also fails to show that they drop off the lower of two cliff lines: the upper one – the true escarpment – is not visible from below. Now return to the old logging trail (waypoint 4) and stay on it as it contours high above the creek.

You reach a section 6 where tree-fall must be scrambled around but otherwise good progress can be made on this level forest bench. The trail becomes more overgrown

76 77 14 Fitzroy Falls: 14 Fitzroy Falls: East to West Finding the track 500 metres, parking one After 200 metres through car near where a fire trail heath, you reach the two- East to West The walk as described joins it from the left. part Yarrunga Lookout, requires two vehicles, Drive the other car back the first of many lookouts Fitzroy Falls were ‘discovered’ by one to be placed near to the gate described on this walk. landowner Charles Throsby in the At a glance the end. From Kangaroo above and park nearby. Valley village head west on You’ll find 1820s after which they became Grade: Easy Walk directions Moss Vale Road and, after 2 uninterrupted views known as Throsby’s Falls. Throsby Time: 3 hrs climbing the Barrengarry Pboth up and down the 7 showed them off to Governor Distance: 6 km one way Mountain hairpins, pass Hop over the right- Yarrunga Creek gorgeN d T R Best on a fine day Fitzroy who paid a visit in 1850 and Conditions: Mannings Lookout Road 1 hand barrier and walk where the southern

n e after rain; wheelchair access to on your right. After 400 west along the oldw trail horizon8 is punctuated who modestly renamed them after G 0 250m main lookout from visitor centre metres, cross a bridge over for 300 metres. It peters Main by the flat-topped mesa himself. The grandeur of upper Lookout Getting there: Fitzroy Canal and note two out short of an unfenced of MountMay Carrialoo Yarrunga Creek’s gorge was obvious Jersey Lookout Bus: Two services run from Nowra gates immediately 10on the escarpment9 lookdownLookout but and rounded Mount and the surrounding land was The Twin Twin 6 to Moss Vale via Kangaroo Valley left. The right gateGrotto marksFalls you nowFalls pickRichardson up a walking Moollattoo. Hereabouts the and Fitzroy Falls: Kennedy’s 810, Lookout Lookout dedicated as a Public Recreation the start of the walk so track heading north.Creek This exposed plateau is home Mon-Fri, T 4421 7596; Priors, daily Reserve as early as 1889. This one- one vehicle must return is the start (or as a signLady to stunted scribbly gums except Sat, T 1800 816234 Hordern way escarpment walk connects a here. Drive a few more indicates, the end) ofFalls the and mountain mallee. The kilometres, passing theStarkeys East Rim track, which vegetation becomes5 less string of lookouts along the east 11 Lookout entrance to Fitzroy Falls hugs the eastern cliffWarrawong line stunted4 as you continue for and west rim; you’ll need two vehicles or the time to walk the return. Lookout Ferny Visitor Centre. Turn next of the sheer, horseshoe- 500 metres to aptly-namedGlen If you don’t have this opportunity, just walk the more spectacular West left into unsealed GwenRenown shaped amphitheatre of Valley View Lookout. Lookout Rim Walk (and return) from the visitor centre. Road and follow12 it for upper Yarrunga Creek.

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78 79 14 Fitzroy Falls: East to West 14 Fitzroy Falls: East to West

descend right of a couple The rainforest environ- of outlying boulders before 5 ment between the two reaching Warrawong creeks is a delight with an Lookout. abundance of mosses, li- chens, water ferns and king From here, you are ferns protected below a tall 4 on the Janet Cosh canopy including sassafras, Wildflower Walk, named mintbush and native mul- to honour a local plant- berry. You may surprise one collector. You can see of the lyrebirds that favour across and down valley this area. Cross the second here but the main view creek on a footbridge, wan- is obscured by a large der through more tree ferns eucalypt; at an unnamed and cross another side gully lookout a few metres before climbing log steps to further on you get your regain the cliff line. first glimpse of Fitzroy Falls. The path becomes You’ll soon reach less even as you descend 6 a short side track into the lush vegetation to May Lookout, which of Ferny Gully. There are looks directly across to At the railing note the excellent views are to be actually two creek gullies: Jersey Lookout on the 3 sheer and colourful had down valley. Next where the two join is a valley’s west rim and, a cliff to your immediate cross a dry creek bed and beautiful grove of black few minutes further on, right. Nearby is a fallen pass a termite mound wattle. Follow the bank of get to Janet Cosh Lookout. casuarina, kept alive by a surrounding a burnt out the first creek and cross it After the path becomes tap root sent down from tree trunk. Pass a lookout upstream on a footbridge boardwalk, cross Yarrunga its uplifted mat of roots to rock on your left and later near exquisite tree ferns. Creek on a footbridge the soil and rock below. under the main road and Continue on to Lamond fork right for the visitor Lookout where more centre. P 7 i N d T The eco-friendly R

n 7 Fitzroy Falls Visitor e w 8 0 250m P G Centre is a popular Suitably refreshed, return sign helps you identify Main Lookout Fitzroy tourist haunt so you’ll along the boardwalk but landmarks down the valley; Falls Jersey May Lookout find you are suddenly head right on the West Rim Mount Carrialoo is now Lookout The 9 6 back in civilisation. There Walking Track. joined by Mount Scanzi. Grotto Twin Twin 10 Falls Falls Richardson are picnic shelters and Proceed on the broad Lookout Lookout Creek barbeques and the Falls In only 150 metres track, passing interpretive Lady Café is open daily for meals 8 you’ll reach the main signs, and down log steps Hordern Falls and snacks. The centre lookout at the head of to Jersey Lookout where 5 sells a range of books, Fitzroy Falls. The platform you get a clear view of the Starkeys Warrawong 4 11 Lookout Lookout Ferny gifts and souvenirs and is cantilevered out over main falls and some lower Glen helpful staff can provide the drop and metal grating cascades. Another 200 Renown metres up more log steps 12 Lookout information on the region’s provides an exhilarating

Yarrunga national parks. Kids will view of water plunging brings you to the next enjoy the stuffed animals 81 metres down the main viewpoint. and interactive displays. drop. An orientation

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i s TO 1 NOWRA 14 Fitzroy Falls: East to West

Richardson Lookout After crossing From Starkeys 9 is cantilevered over 10 another side- 11 Lookout, the full the cliff and so is unob- creek footbridge you can 320-metre extent of structed by tree growth. As detour left down to the Yarrunga Creek’s descent well as a direct view of the lower part of the Grotto: into the gorge is captured, main falls, you can now it’s only 50 metres away from the main falls to the see distant Mount down steps. A railing cascades below and to the down-valley. Up steps you limits exploration of the final 70-metre drop of Lady join Red Hills Fire Trail for overhang behind a small Hordern Falls. Now return 30 metres before veering cascade but if you stay to the main path and walk left, descending more steps awhile you might spot downhill for 300 metres to to reach the two-part Twin rock warblers going about the final lookout. Falls Lookout. This offers a their business. Little great view down valley and sunlight penetrates the Renown Lookout of the side-by-side Twin coachwoods and water 12 makes a suitable Falls, impressive after rain. gums that spread gnarled grande finale to the walk. Now cross their feeder creek roots over the mossy The extra distance from on a footbridge to reach an rocks. Back on the main the falls improves the view, unnamed lookdown over path, continue south for framed by a venerable old the same side-creek amphi- 400 metres through a man banksia growing near theatre and to soon reach much dryer understorey the railing. After taking in Paines Lookout. Descend – hakea, mountain devil the scene’s grandeur, retrace stone steps, following the and tea-tree – towards your steps to pick up the path below a low, seeping the penultimate lookout, Red Hills Fire Trail (way- rock wall through a ferny reached on another short point 9). Follow this back to dell known as the Grotto. detour path. Gwen Road and your car.

82 83 15 Above Bendeela 15 Above Bendeela

This forest walk – mostly in Morton National Park – reaches the Pipeline At a glance Lookout for one of the best views Grade: Hard over Kangaroo Valley. The walk is Time: 6-7 hrs rated hard for several reasons: for Distance: 18.5 km circuit one section the trail is faint and Ascent/descent: 550 m/550 m Finding the track Walk directions difficult to follow and negotiates a Conditions: Avoid in summer; an old clearing and the patch of nettles and leeches. These watch out for downhill mountain From Kangaroo Valley Take the steep easement vegetation becomes lush bikers on weekends; nettles and PO, drive over Hampden 1 track that gives walkers as the soil turns a rich obstacles can be avoided by taking leeches on a short section Bridge and turn first left access to Morton National red-brown. Further uphill, the easier route described under Further info: Refer 1:25,000 map: into Bendeela Road. After Park. There is a short the forest becomes drier ‘Variations’ but there’s no escaping Bundanoon (8928-1S) 5.7 kilometres, watch for respite at the top of the first with large turpentine trees. the cruelly steep trudge up the trail a sharp turn off right into incline and then a steady Fallen trees across the that begins the walk and the matching descent on the return. Nonetheless, a small fenced area with hairpin ascent through trail have been built up as space for several cars and a tall forest. The track levels ramps for bikers’ benefit. this is a rewarding walk and one ideal for building fitness! sign welcoming walkers by through The rock walls of Mt the track head for McPhails Carrialoo rise up Trail. on your left 10 and you pass a Trail red McPhails 4 tag 3 N Morton National Park 0 500m

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84 85 15 Above Bendeela 15 Above Bendeela on a tree that denotes a the track, but you should The track passes the track on the other side rough route up onto its find the remains of an old 5 above a clearing where and turn right to follow plateau. logging track that heads there are the ruins of a it southeast. Where it to your right, southwest cabin and, nearby, a good broadens, keep left uphill. Continue on the track and level around the slope. view off the escarpment; Power lines come into view 2 to cross a shady gully, Although this begins take care if exploring near and you cross a patch of followed by a second. in the national park, it the cliff top. The track now bracken to reach cleared Where tree-fall blocks the takes you through private swings northwest to cross land. track, a footpad diverts land, so please don’t a gully. This moist section around it. The track makes abuse the goodwill of the is, sadly, overgrown with By now, you’ll no a gentle descent on a saddle, landholders. nettles and brambles and 6 doubt be needing with filtered views north of leeches but it is, thankfully, lunch and this is an Morton National Park. A Follow the remnant short. A bridge that crossed excellent place to enjoy level area, cleared of trees, 4 track for almost 3 the creek is broken, so it, along with the views marks the site of McPhails kilometres as it proceeds cross the gully where the over Kangaroo Valley, Farm and makes a good along a wide, forested path is blocked to regain with Mt Broughton – or place for a rest break. bench – between two levels the Wedding Cake as it of escarpment – swinging is also known – at its far Continue on through east and then southeast. end. After your rest, follow 3 the clearing for 500 Along the way, it crosses the edge of the clearing metres or so, passing a over a culvert in a gully. briefly uphill and pick up large boulder and following About an hour from the good unsealed service the path through a sharp waypoint 4, the remnant road that climbs steadily. switchback and then track veers right (ignore The road swings slowly around another bend. At a footpad left) to follow northeast and you might a ‘McPhails’ signpost, turn the top of a spur, passing glimpse a strange tower sharp right into the bush. red-and-white poles and in the distance; this is a building; the massive the left, just before a barrier It’s no longer visible from a notice about buried cable. surge tank and is part of pipe carries water as it is by a curve in the road, the Catchment pumped uphill from the indicating a footpad. Authority’s infrastructure. Kangaroo River at Bendeela About 1.4 kilometres from to the Fitzroy Canal, This short detour is where you joined it, the where it enters Sydney’s 8 extremely rewarding. road reaches a junction. water supply system. Descend the embankment A trig marker stands, and then follow a series of Turn left here and apparently abandoned, by poles (marking the route 7 descend gently. The the roadside on your left. A of an underground cable) road crosses the Kangaroo few hundred metres along, across a minor creek. The Pipeline by a fenced-off there is a marker pole on route swerves left (south)

Walk variation Strangely enough, not everyone likes nettles and leeches. Walkers who nonetheless enjoy stretching the leg muscles can stay on track and avoid those irritants by ignoring the directions at waypoint 4 and continuing up McPhails Trail, turning right at waypoint 10 and enjoying the detour at waypoint 8 to Pipeline Lookout; this section involves a bit of path-finding but there are poles to follow through the scrub and the views are rewarding. Return the same way, as per the directions above, for a walk of 14 kilometres in total.

86 87 15 Above Bendeela 15 Above Bendeela

and brings you to a rocky behind that is the pimple- the poles back across the outcrop on the tip of a shaped Mt Scanzi; further creek. Turn left when back point on the escarpment. west is Mt Moollattoo with onto the road and follow it The view from this spot – a ridgeline leading up to as it winds generally north. known as Pipeline Lookout the raised plateau of Almost 2 kilometres along, – is dramatic: below is Mt Carrialoo. on a gentle descent, you Bendeela Pondage and the reach a four-way junction. Kangaroo River snaking Retrace your steps, its way to Lake Yarrunga; 9 taking care to follow Turn left on 10 McPhails Trail where a sign indicates it is closed (to vehicles); this is a lovely section of path, taking you downhill by a bank decorated with clumps of native grass and with a creek gully down to your right. Pass the sign at waypoint 4 and keep on the main track, walking back through the farm clearing and retracing your outward route. Apart from a short climb that seems unfair at this stage in the day, the walk out is all downhill; you might want to pick up a walking stick for the steep descent at the end.

Shoalhaven environment – Trees, trees, trees! Apart from all those yellow pea-flowers and white heaths, wildflowers are relatively easy to differentiate. Native trees are quite another matter; if we could see their leaves and flowers, it would make life easier. Coachwoods, for example, have florets that turn red – they are closely related to Christmas bush – and it can be easy to spot them across valley late in summer. The now- rare Red Cedar is deciduous and so stands out in winter. For many tall trees though, we have to inspect their bark to guess their identity. Coachwood trunks, for example, tend to be smooth and splotchy while Sassafras has scaly bark. Turpentines aren’t too difficult: the red-brown bark is rough with rugged, deep cracks running vertically. Sydney Peppermint has grey bark that is fine and fibrous. With experience (and a bit of application) the interested walker will develop some idea of which trees thrive in which habitats – open forest, rainforest, along creeks, in coastal woodland and so on. Those who lack the patience or memory can simply give a tree a friendly pat in passing.

88 89 16 Yarrunga Valley and Griffin Farm

16 Yarrunga Valley Finding the track

and Griffin Farm From Kangaroo Valley, drive towards Fitzroy Falls There is something poignant about over Hampden Bridge, finding a long-abandoned farm in At a glance taking the first turn left into Bendeela Road (which an isolated valley, the surrounding Grade: Medium; second variation becomes Jacks Corner is hard bushland reverting to its wild state. Road). Drive for 11.3 This walk in Morton National Park Time: 5 hrs kilometres, parking near a penetrates deep into the heart of Distance: 14 km return locked gate where the road the beautiful Yarrunga Creek valley Descent/ascent: 220 m/220 m swings left. to the ruins of a farm that was home Conditions: Yarrunga Creek may be impassable after prolonged rain Walk directions to Clyde Griffin and his large family Further info: Refer 1:25,000 map: Creek and Griffin Farm: pleasant but uneventful in the middle of the last century. Bundanoon (8928-1S) This is Jacks Corner, 5 and 5.8 kilometres walking, mostly gently The timber in this area was a very 1 so called because respectively. Follow the downhill as you contour valuable resource (not surprisingly, as Yarrunga is an Aboriginal word for the properties of four broad fire trail northwest. below the western slopes ‘large trees’). different Jacks met here. of Mount Moollattoo, an Walk around the locked After about 100 Aboriginal name meaning gate onto Griffins Fire 2 metres, ignore the ‘grassy mountain’. Trail; there’s a picnic table unsigned trail left (this is here and a new toilet just Beehive Fire Trail which At a left bend where down the trail. A trailhead can be walked to Beehive 3 the trail begins a steep sign shows the one-way Point on Lake Yarrunga). descent, ignore a narrower distances to Yarrunga The first 3 kilometres are foot track right: a steeper shortcut to Yarrunga Creek. The trail now descends between many large boulders. The gradient increases at a sharp bend right, after which you reach a second locked gate straddling two huge rocks: the perfect trailbike deterrent.

Continue steeply 4 downhill for 500 metres, where the trail swings left at a dry gully crossing. Climb briefly out of the gully then make a final descent and hairpin turn to reach Yarrunga Creek. The banks of this idyllic creek are a pleasant place to relax for a few minutes.

90 91 16 Yarrunga Valley and Griffin Farm 16 Yarrunga Valley and Griffin Farm

To cross the creek a worn footpad to rejoin much left, just some north is a magical view of down to the ford, a well- forest that still lines the 5 you can either slosh the trail. Go left, heading foundations and a bit of the sandstone escarpment defined track continues creek, though you must through the (usually) downstream, some 20 stone wall overgrown with forming an unnamed point. ahead upstream, following contend with some treefall. shallow water of the metres above the creek blackberry and nettle. The Have lunch here al fresco above the creek on a level road ford or make use through tall, lush forest onward footpath soon or find the way down to bench. This old cedar- of stepping stones a few replete with tree ferns. At emerges onto broad grassy the banks of the creek on getting track makes a very metres downstream. Look the crest of a small rise, flats, kept trim by the a wombat track that leaves worthwhile detour to for stout sticks to help 800 metres from the creek resident marsupials. The the clearing between two see the superb you balance – there is crossing, you’ll find a flats are enclosed by a bend large campfires. often a collection nearby footpad off left. in Yarrunga Creek; they – and leave them on the make a popular destination Here you can sit on opposite bank for your Follow this to the for overnight hikers, 7 a log and dine to return crossing. Scramble 6 remains of Griffin’s accommodating large the sound of flowing up the opposite bank on farmhouse. There’s not parties with ease. To the water and have a paddle if it’s a 9 warm day. After 8 5 lunch, return Creek Morton TO Ford to Griffins Fire TIMEALONG 6 National TRAIL Park Trail: opposite a ng T rru Griffin waypoint 6 Ya Farm 7 is another obscure 4 s footpad (once s a road) leaving next to two 3 posts that once supported a sign. It climbs a spur and soon leads you to an old concrete N reservoir, once the farm’s water 0 500m supply.

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r Return to i f f i n 8 the trail s Shoalhaven history – A hard life in the bush below and retrace your Clyde Griffin, his wife Jean and their six children must have done it tough back in the 1940s when they worked the hundreds of acres of bush he had bought outward route but continue a F i cheaply in the isolated Yarrunga Creek valley. He had to bulldoze a road in from r e t r Kangaroo Valley so he could truck out his timber to sell to sawmills; when it little past where a il rained the only way out was by horse. The Griffin family were self-sufficient: you rejoined rner Rd they had a vegetable garden and orchard, brewed beer and raised livestock for the trail after the Co s

2 s s 1 ck TO meat, eggs and dairy products. The first home was an old bark shack; later they stepping-stone Ja KANGAROO built a 3-storey home, made from timber off the property. The farm survived TO VALLEY creek crossing. LAKE P flood and fire before being dismantled when the property was sold to the state Where the trail YARRUNGA in the 1970s for incorporation into Morton National Park. bends sharply right

92 93 16 Yarrunga Valley and Griffin Farm 16 Yarrunga Valley and Griffin Farm

About 800 metres 9 upstream, an excellent stand of Sydney Blue Gums grows on an alluvial deposit where an unnamed side creek joins Yarrunga Creek. You can continue further upstream as far as you like but the track becomes more overgrown as you go. Return to the trail junction, turn left down to the ford and the stepping-stone crossing just downstream. Now return the 5 kilometres to your car, taking plenty of rests on the steep sections.

Overnighting and walk variations 1 A newly-installed toilet at Griffin Farm makes overnight camping a more comfortable experience with plenty of good walking on offer from here. You can continue along Griffins Fire Trail for about 1.5 kilometres to the ford on Crankeys Creek; downstream you’ll find a good swimming hole. Continuing further will take you to a trail junction where you can follow the historic and well-engineered Timealong Trail 5.5 kilometres down to Lake Yarrunga. This was the original road from the highlands into Kangaroo Valley; the route was an Aboriginal trading route shown to Charles Throsby in 1818 by an Aboriginal man named Timealong. 2 Another, more strenuous option is a navigationally-challenging circuit along old, overgrown logging roads north of Griffin Farm. The old track to the reservoir (waypoint 8) continues uphill, eventually breaching a low escarpment and reaching a junction. The right fork traverses a broad forest bench high above the valley before finally dropping down to Yarrunga Creek and becoming the track described in waypoints 8 and 9. This route was on the previous Bundanoon map but is no longer shown; it is now a ‘negotiable route’ only and it’s very easy to lose the line of the track so this variation is one for experienced walkers competent navigating with map and compass.

94 95 17 Brooks Plateau 17 Brooks Plateau Lookdowns Finding the track the sign’s schematic map. a turning circle. A footpad Follow the broad, level continues ahead through Lookdowns From the western edge of fire trail for 600 metres scrub for 60 metres to Kangaroo Valley village, through low scrub – tea- reach the exposed rocks of Easy, level walking on old trails to take Mount Scanzi Road trees, banksias, isopogons the first viewpoint, Lake four different vistas makes this At a glance towards Tallowa Dam and mountain devils – to Yarrunga View. for 19.7 kilometres and reach a signed junction. itinerary ideal for the whole family Grade: Easy/medium park in the large lay-by If you make your as it can easily be shortened if Time: 4–5 hrs on the right, opposite the Take the right fork, 3 way down to a lower enthusiasm flags or time runs out. Distance: Up to 12 km return trailhead. 2 signed to Lake ledge, you gain fine views The tracks out to various points on Conditions: No shade, avoid in Yarrunga View and of the dammed Kangaroo Walk directions the rim of Brooks Plateau traverse summer; unfenced lookouts Tallowa Dam View (1.5 River and Yarrunga Creek open woodland and heath that and 2.5 kilometres return). which, together with the This walk is called the Continue ahead at the next backed up waters of the bursts into flower in late winter and spring. This is when honeyeaters 1 Three Views Trail on junction until Shoalhaven River and come to dine so look out for Eastern Spinebills, New Holland, Yellow- the NPWS sign by the you reach Bundanoon Creek, Ta faced and Lewins honeyeaters. You might even spot a wedge-tailed locked gate; there’s a fourth llo make up Lake wa eagle soaring high above the Shoalhaven River. If you only walk to one viewpoint accessed on a Yarrunga. lesser path but it’s Dam lookout, make it the Shoalhaven River View at waypoint 6. M 3 o not shown on o lla tto o

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96 97 17 Brooks Plateau Lookdowns 17 Brooks Plateau Lookdowns

Flat-topped Mount arm of Lake Yarrunga. Continue ahead Carrialoo can be seen in Mount Phillips and Purri 5 through stunted the distance to the north; Plateau loom across the scribbly gums and nearby is Moollattoo Trig. gorge and lush trees grow angophoras. Towards its Backtrack for 600 metres on Barron Flat below the end, the trail becomes a bit and turn right, walking dam. Return to waypoint rocky and ends at a sign: for 850 metres until the 2 and follow the sign to Shoalhaven River View 40 fire trail ends at a broad Shoalhaven River View metres. Follow the yellow expanse of flat rock. Now (4 kilometres return). paint dots on rocks out follow a rough footpad and Presently the track begins a to a boulder on which is yellow arrows over rocks to gentle descent, passing an perched a geodetic marker reach another trig point. expanse of rock pavement TO1 and from where there on the left. After the trail are views of the river in Taking care, walk out begins to ascend gently, both directions. 4 to a more exposed note a cairn on the left, op- rock for the best views over posite a lone scribbly gum; For the walk’s best the wall of Tallowa Dam this marks a detour path 6 views, get down and the Shoalhaven River (south) for you to use later. off this rock and find a footpad out to an outlier rock, passing several large grass trees on the way. Here the view captures the right towards the unnamed sweep of the river around fourth viewpoint. The Apple Tree Flat below you; path is easy to follow but Apple Tree Creek forms somewhat overgrown and a side gorge opposite the scratchy, in contrast to the flats. Downstream the view other broad trails. extends to the endless hills of the Ettrema Wilderness. On reaching a small A lunch break provides 7 cairn, continue ahead a great excuse to linger on the less obvious path here! Now backtrack 700 and you’ll soon reach the metres or so to the cairn escarpment where you at waypoint 5 and head can continue on rocks, high above the river valley, Shoalhaven environment – Tallowa Dam all the way to a narrow, unnamed point. You’ll pass Tallowa Dam is managed by the Sydney Catchment Authority to top up some interesting sandstone Sydney’s dam levels during dry spells, which it does through a series of pipes, erosion including a rock tunnels, canals and reservoirs. Opened in 1977, Tallowa was to have been the first of several dams on the beautiful Shoalhaven River. Fortunately for the health with a natural window of the river and the pristine wilderness of its upstream gorge, the Welcome in it. Downstream on the Reef Dam has been put in mothballs. The dammed 9-square-kilometre Lake Shoalhaven you can see Yarrunga is now a popular playground for fishing, canoeing and kayaking. The Bulls Flat, while the bluffs trip up the Shoalhaven gorge – beneath magnificent sandstone bluffs and cliffs known as Three Mates stand – towards Fossickers Flat is incredibly scenic and is the most popular flat-water sentinel over the gorge. Now paddle in NSW. If visiting the dam, make sure you see the new fish lift, designed you need to retrace your to transport bass and other freshwater fish from the base of the dam to the steps along the scratchy lake and rivers. footpath to the fire trail and then back to the car.

98 99 18 Bugong’s Escarpment

18 Bugong’s Finding the track

escarpment This walk can be reached from Nowra via Illaroo This short forest circuit, in the Road. From Kangaroo pleasantly obscure Bugong National At a glance Valley, follow Mt Scanzi Road for 4.8 kilometres Park, rewards walkers with some Grade: Easy and turn left (now on big views of the Shoalhaven Time: 1 hr dirt but still on Mt Scanzi River and the wilderness beyond. Distance: 2 km circuit Road). Travel another A nearby rainforest walk along Conditions: Exposed cliffs; 11.9 kilometres (the road Bugong Creek provides a complete indistinct paths becomes Bugong Road) scenic contrast. Plans are afoot to Further info: Refer 1:25000 map: and turn right into Lower Burrier 8928-2N Bugong Road. After make these walks official so watch 1.9 kilometres turn left neighbouring eucalypts; Mount Barron, separated out for developments. The quiet into Illaroo Fire Trail. After remember these distinctive from a more prominent drive from Kangaroo Valley via Bugong Gap is a delight in itself. 1.3 kilometres, park by the trees for your return or but nameless peak by road at a bend next to a leave a bright object here! Banfora Saddle and, small dam. beyond that, forested hills From the cliff top, receding to the horizon. Walk directions 2 the view of the Verdant farm fields on Shoalhaven valley and the river flats provide a Continue walking beyond is superb. Below is 1 down the road for a large meander in the river 120 metres and turn right in which Coolendel onto an old, unnamed camping ground (and unmapped) trail. It nestles. TO winds through tall eucalypt Beyond, N KANGAROO forest, well recovered from you can VALLEY a past bushfire. The trail see 0 250m peters out in more open Illaroo Firetrail woodland as it veers left 5 towards the escarpment 1 rocks, passing below an arch formed by two

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VIEW TO SHOALHAVEN RIVER 2 Coolendel Lookout 3

100 101 18 Bugong’s Escarpment 18 Bugong’s Escarpment delightful contrast. Now and mostly easy to follow. Both arms of the fork detour left along the It then swings northeast, 5 soon reach the road escarpment for 200 metres, diverging from the cliffs. but the right fork will get past interesting clefts and you directly back to the crevices, to where it juts Pass a small rock dam and your car. out in a point. Just left 4 cairn before crossing of this is an unexpected a log on the path which sight: a few metres from becomes more pronounced the main cliff line is a rock as you pass several grass pinnacle topped with a trees. The path broadens garden of rock orchids to become an old vehicular and burrawangs. This is an track. A hard-to-spot example of block gliding, footpad diverges off to the where a block of fissured left – perhaps marked by sandstone has gradually a small cairn – this is the moved down the slope on departure for the walk a bed of weaker siltstone variation. Twenty metres and become a freestanding later you reach a track fork. pinnacle.

Retrace your steps and 3 find the outward track near the arched trees. Soon leave the track left at a bend near an old campfire, entering the open forest to find the beginning of a footpad (this one is on the map). Follow it north, parallel to the escarpment which is visible through the canopy. The path is fairly narrow but level Out and about: A nearby rainforest walk Walk variation On the return to Kangaroo Valley you might like to spend an hour or two exploring the beautiful rainforest environs of Bugong Creek. Bugong Road If you would like to see a bit more of the cliff line – above and below – find fords the creek 5.3 kilometres from the Lower Bugong Road turnoff and there’s and follow the footpad at waypoint 5. It heads north, reaching the cliffs in 350 room for one or two cars on the northern side on the right. metres or so. Remember or mark this point for your return. After taking in the view over the Bugong Creek valley and north to Mount Scanzi, walk left (south) A vague footpad provides upstream creek access; there are no proper tracks a bit away from the escarpment and look for a series of cairns which lead you here though there are signs of earlier logging. After inspecting the cliff walls, to an easy pass down off the cliff line. You can explore the base of the cliffs in follow a flat bench below the cliff line and above the creek bank. On the far side either direction and you’ll fairly soon find a way back up. The shortest return is of a (probably dry) side creek, the going gets a bit harder as the level bench to head right of the large outlying rock at the base of the pass and then follow gradually becomes a slope and the cliff line breaks up, only to reappear later. If you the base of the escarpment past beautiful sandstone weathering. Stay near the persevere, the walking becomes flat and easier and you can continue upstream cliff base and pass a large rock outlier on your left and a dead tree hugging the quite a long way while still in Bugong National Park. The creek is very pretty, cliff. A small rock cairn on a mossy rock points the way up. Back on top, look particularly at a spot about a kilometre upstream of the ford: miniature cascades left at the weathering of the rock shelf and the elegant, eroded bowl shapes. and reflective pools will tempt you to linger here. You can return through the Leaving the rocks, you’re almost opposite the outward path. forest or rock-hop downstream, taking great care on slippery rocks.

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