the journal of the Grand Canyon River Guide’s, Inc. • voulme 32 number 3 • fall 2019 boatman’s quarterlyreview Prez Blurb• Farewells•AndyHall •GuideProfileThe Journey •Stanton’s Cave Point Positive •SavetheDatesGlen CanyonDamand the ColoradoRiver Book Reviews •Eye ofOdin •CoolerResearch •Whale News boatman’s quarterly review Prez Blurb …is published more or less quarterly by and for Grand Canyon River Guides. reetings from Salmon Idaho where I’m Grand Canyon River Guides finishing up my Middle Fork tour. It’s the is a nonprofit organization dedicated to Gtime of the season where we all feel pretty well worked and probably need a vacation before the “dog Protecting Grand Canyon days of August.” I had a guest say recently, “You guides Setting the highest standards for the river profession just have a paid vacation.” I just pointed out, “Yeah, Celebrating the unique spirit of the river community fourteen hours a day, every day.” Anyway, onward… Providing the best possible river experience By now the incident at National Canyon has flowed around the community, of a guest thinking he was left General Meetings are held each Spring and Fall. Our behind and making his way down-river and eventually Board of Directors Meetings are generally held the first losing his life by drowning. This incident points to the Wednesday of each month. All innocent bystanders are fact it is impossible to protect guests totally from their urged to attend. Call for details. own misguided actions, however well-meaning they Staff may seem to that individual. The crew had over 200 Executive Director Lynn Hamilton years of experience combined plus a group of retired Board of Directors fire fighters and lifeguards as guests. As they are my President Steve “Doc” Nicholson colleagues, l know that their attention to safety is of Vice President Margeaux Bestard the highest order. Yet when panic sets in, thinking and Treasurer Fred Thevenin logic ceases, and the result can be tragic. We may try, Directors Mara Drazina but we cannot protect everyone from themselves. zeke Lauck Onward—in past writings l have discussed beach Justin Salamon erosion and the possibility of tapping into sediments thea Sherman to rebuild them. The sand and sediments are there derik Spice but are trapped behind the giant monolith of Glen Lynn Westerfield Canyon Dam. How do we tap into them? To discuss gcrg’s amwg this, an essay on dam building is necessary. First, a representative Dave Brown little history: gcrg’s twg The u.s. Bureau of Reclamation was established in Representative Ben Reeder 1902 principally to build dams on our western rivers. Bqr Editors Katherine Spillman The Imperial Valley south of Palm Springs, California mary Williams is one of the hottest, driest places on earth, but the Our editorial policy, such as it is: provide an open soil is rich, for in the past the Colorado River flowed forum. We need articles, poetry, stories, drawings, through it depositing its sediments. Big agriculturists photos, opinions, suggestions, gripes, comics, etc. started farming it around the turn of the century Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Grand (1890–1900). The Colorado flows east of the valley and Canyon River Guides, Inc. is higher in elevation, the Imperial Valley being below sea level thus irrigation ditches were dug to water the Written submissions should be less than 15oo words rich soils. All went well until the spring of 1905 when and, if possible, be sent on a cd or emailed to gcrg. Microsoft Word files are best but we can translate most the mighty Colorado tore out the head gates and the programs. Include postpaid return envelope if you entire river was diverted into the Valley and formed want your disk or submission returned. the Salton Sea. For two years attempts were made to re-divert the Colorado back into its original channel Deadlines for submissions are the 1st of February, May, August and November. Thanks! to no avail. The real danger was eventually that the Salton Sea would rise above the land barrier to the Our office location: 515 West Birch, Flagstaff, az 86001 Office Hours: 12:00–6:00, Monday through Friday Sea of Cortez and thus reclaim the Valley to the sea, meaning the entire loss of the Valley to agriculture. Phone 928.773.1075 Finally the Colorado was diverted back to its original Fax 928.773.8523 E-mail [email protected] Website www.gcrg.org Cover photo: Dugald Bremner, 1988, NAU.PH.2018.34.1.144.261

page 2 grand canyon river guides channel. The Southern Pacific built a track and So here lies a possible source for sand and literally drove filled box cars into the gap where the sediments to rebuild beaches in the Grand Canyon— old head gates were. The need to control the Colorado sitting right behind the cofferdam, adjacent to the was now graphically apparent. Interestingly, when a diversion tubes that would allow the sediments to high dam was first proposed by Secretary Larue (or La flow around the dam. Most of the infrastructure is Roux) his choice was Glen Canyon but was overruled already in place. Only one diversion tube needs to because there was no nearby infrastructure or market have the concrete removed and a proper functioning for the sale of power, whereas Boulder Canyon had gate constructed to allow sand and silt to flow around the Southern Pacific thru Las Vegas and Los Angeles as the dam. Sound far-fetched? Well, yeah. It will take a market. That site eventually became Black Canyon, a lot of convincing politicians and bureaucrats to as it would increase entertain the notion. the size of the Fortunately, most of reservoir. Lucky for the infrastructure us and the Grand is already in Canyon because place—it just needs a dam in Boulder modification. It’s a Canyon would have Civil Engineering inundated even more project, no new of the Grand Canyon. technology is needed. So, how Glen Also a huge selling Canyon Dam (and point is that it will dams in general) are extend indefinitely built: the first step the life of Lake is to divert the river Powell as a reservoir. out of the channel. That should please a Diversion tunnels lot of the populace must be dug through and politicians. A the sandstone Outgoing and incoming GCRG presidents, Doc and Margeaux. lot of questions around the dam site will arise: is there to deliver the river water back to the channel below. enough sand and silt there to tap into? Cost? How to Dikes were built in front of the diversion tunnel do it? What clearly is needed to start this process is to entryways thus preventing the river from inundating recommend funding a feasibility study. That can’t hurt the sites. The tunneling was started in the spring of can it? Not too much money to find something out 1957 on each side of the river. Each tunnel was 41 feet that could possibly be answer to a problem that is only in diameter and half a mile long—22,000 tons of getting worse. rock being removed a day. Gates were installed at the At the spring gts, Jack Schmidt handed us a pearl upriver portals then a cofferdam was constructed—a when he said (paraphrased), “Speak clearly and define rock earthen structure blocking the river and forcing what you want the Grand Canyon to look like in the it to flow through the diversion tunnels after the future.” We as a guide’s organization have already protective dikes were removed. In February of 1959, affected the Grand Canyon in a positive way with the after 22 months of removing rock, the Colorado Grand Canyon Protection Act. There is more work to River was diverted out of its channel and the dam site do and we can affect the Grand Canyon’s future in a exposed to begin actual construction. Four years later positive way. We’ve got to pull together. in March of 1963, the gates at the head of the diversion My tenure as President of gcrg is about over. It tubes were lowered and Lake Powell started to fill. has been some work but a pleasure to work with all The heavy load of silt and sand settled behind the these interesting and positive people. I feel richer for cofferdam. The diversion tubes were then filled with the experience. My friend, Margeaux Bestard, will be 150 tons of concrete to ensure no leakage occurred. It taking the reins in September and guiding us thru the is a shame that the engineers of the project weren’t as next year and I’m sure she will be fantastic. prescient as the Chinese engineers with Three Gorges All the best to everyone out there, may your runs Dam on the Yangtze where they put in sluice gates so be smooth and exciting. sand and silt could be drained from behind the dam thus preventing the reservoir from filling with silt. Doc Nicholson boatman’s quarterly review page 3 Farewells

Joan Nevills Staveley—October 7, 1936 – April 9, 2019 however, off limits. Many spankings reinforced this, yet explorations sporadically continued. oan grew up on the banks of the San Juan River This idyllic world ended on September 19, 1949 in Mexican Hat, Utah, with her parents Norm when Mom and Daddy died in the crash of our plane. Jand Doris Nevillls, her sister, Sandy, and their Joan’s next years were spent at Wasatch Academy in dogs. Norm and Doris were adventurous, daring, and Mt. Pleasant, Utah, and with the Rigg family in Grand unafraid, and raised their girls to be so. Thunderstorms, Junction, Colorado. I was sent to live with mom’s great flash floods, and primitive road conditions were a aunt in Sacramento, California. normal part of life, and Joan reveled in them. At age 18, Joan married Gaylord Staveley. Together Early on, Joan was her dad’s staunch “soldier.” She they owned and operated Mexican Hat Expeditions, was convinced his boats could not now Canyoneers. Joan was “the be built without her help. In the gofer”— she did everything, isolated pre-World War ii world, bought trip supplies, developed Norm was struggling to support menus, examined air mattresses his family and was also devoted to to be sure they didn’t deflate (they opening Southern Utah’s beauty always did), booked passengers, to others by running river trips on wrote letters, fed and provided the San Juan and in Glen Canyon. floor space for perennially hungry Nothing missed Joan’s young boatman. This in addition scrutiny. As a preschool toddler, to raising two great kids, Cameron she captured a bewildered and Lee and Scott Norman. She always fortunately benign rattlesnake. forged her own path, first earning The bribe from her mom, Doris, her private plane’s license and later caused her to reluctantly give up becoming a certified jet boat pilot her trophy. Graham crackers were on Lake Powell. hard to come by! Joan moved to Page following Mexican Hat was an exciting her divorce from Gaylord to world of huge wind storms become the Executive Director of and dust devils which the John Wesley Powell routinely tore the roofs Museum and Page off Daddy’s shop and Lake Powell Chamber our house. Joan was of Commerce. With the search and rescue her typical zest and crew, chasing down enthusiasm, she loved roof materials. She Page and they loved indeed was dad’s soldier her back! At one time, and workhorse. Joan she was vice mayor. She was taught to read by tirelessly promoted Lake age four by the simple Powell and Northern expedient her dad told Arizona, representing her she could. She also them in many trade learned to drive his work shows all over the rig at age eight—an Southwest. She excelled accomplishment she as the ambassador for was enormously proud the Four Corners and of and which caused Joan Nevills Staveley and Sandy Nevills Reiff Northern Arizona, an area me huge jealousy. She she so loved. Her tenure “co-piloted” our plane, sturdily holding the stick on two Federal commissions further advanced the area with Daddy. The desert was Joan’s playground with and her expertise. her constant companions, our dogs. The river was In 2007, she moved back to Flagstaff following

page 4 grand canyon river guides a serious fall. Of course, her long-time friends feel special and was a deep support to each of us and companions moved too—her dogs. They also individually. She was deeply loved and cherished by her welcomed one and all including friends in the river family. Her life was a vibrant tapestry of historic and community and new neighbors. During this time, she current events. Joan was proud of being a member of a diligently kept up with her journals which are filled pioneer river running family and even more so that her with fascinating examples of how it was in the early son and nephew have continued that tradition. years of her life. She also loved developing friendships This October, following the river season, a with her grandchildren and great-grandchildren. Also celebration of Joan’s life will be held in Flagstaff, time with her niece Shannon and her two daughters, Kate and date to be announced later. Further plans include and Cassidy, as well as Gregory and Norman Reiff, a grave-side commemorative at the family plot in her nephews. She was delighted with a late-in-life Mexican Hat, Utah will also be announced later. grandson, Sam Nevills Staveley with whom she shared See you down river, Joanie Elizabeth… endless esoteric conversations and much laughter. Joanie died this last April 9, 2019, the birth date of Sandy Jane her father, born many years before. She made everyone

Bill George—December 1, 1938 – March 21, 2019

“If you are going to tell me it can’t be done, please show me the courtesy of staying out of my way while I do it.” —Bill George

hese words defined bg better than any others. He was as persistent and unyielding as he was Tgenerous, inclusive, adventurous, roguish, and benevolent. His wife, Shirley, lovingly referred to him as “General Bullmoose.” Blessed with the gift of gab, his stories were legendary and he would make friends wherever he went; it wasn’t unusual to hear “Bill George! Is that you?” shouted across a room. No one in the family was ever surprised to hear it, even at a rural airport in Antigua at 2:00 a.m.—ironic, considering he was born and raised in Utah and never lived outside its borders. He collected friends the way others might collect rare coins and he drew people to him like a magnet. Strangers became friends and friends became family. He had a massive presence, both in stature and vigor; wherever he was, he filled the room, even alongside the river beneath the stars. He married the love of his life, Shirley, in 1960 and by 1963 they had begun their family. They had a wild romance together for 58 years! He was a multi-faceted man of many talents and could fix anything! He was an English major at byu, played Freshman football on a scholarship, ran track and field, and taught fly fishing at the University of Utah. Prior to Bill owning Western River Expeditions, he had been an original organizer of the “American Sportsman’s Club.” His love for boating grew from his Bill George rowing a snout. passion for hunting and fishing in Desolation/Gray Canyon on the Green River. He would spend days on end rafting and hunting for deer along its banks and boatman’s quarterly review page 5 convinced others to join him. He befriended Don and Jeanette Wilcox and that friendship would spark countless stories he readily told around the campfire. His stories peaked the curiosity of many and by 1970 he started Bill George’s Green River Expeditions and ran it for the next six years with Shirley driving shuttle — four kids in tow. At night he would play guitar and sing songs, preferring the silly ones. In 1977, he and a partner, Lynn Keller, purchased Western River Expeditions’ (wre) Moab operation from Jack Currey with Rights of First Refusal for the remainder of wre. By 1978, they added Larry Lake as a partner and purchased Western’s Grand Canyon operation and a new “family” was born: the Western River Family. Those adventures and stories could literally fill volumes. His remarkable dedication to family, both immediate and “adopted” was unparalleled. He always made you feel like family, welcome in his home and in his heart. He had a profound and far reaching impact on those who knew him. Anywhere you agreed to go with him, adventure awaited. You could literally end up anywhere doing anything and it was wise to always keep your ammo can packed and at the ready…just in case. It wasn’t uncommon to agree to go run an errand with him and then find yourself in a plane headed for Page or Fredonia for the afternoon…never a dull moment. One former manager and friend described him best… “Bill is the most accessible, approachable, and lovable ‘larger than life’ person there ever was…I know that seems like an exaggeration, but I assure you it is not. No matter how hectic or stressful, the day or the situation, if Bill was around, I could always count on a big, all encompassing father’s hug, a joke (or seven), and a witty chat that always made me feel at peace and that nothing, not even his own business, was worth losing my sanity over.” Bill was fiercely loyal and his friendship with Georgie White was no exception. He visited her often and admired her greatly. She trusted him to sell her company to when she was dying and he presided over her funeral. Tony Heaton approached him when he was first considering Bar 10 Ranch as a destination for weary rafters and was looking for support from the rafting companies; Bill did not hesitate and soon wre was sending its passengers via mule to meet the Heaton’s at the rim. Bill was a legend in his own time and will be greatly missed. Tennyson wrote, “I am a part of all that I have met” and I am a far better person having met you bg (dad). “Satori” by Erica Fareio Tiffany George

page 6 grand canyon river guides Jessica Youle—July 29, 1946 – July 13, 2018 uniqueness of her spirit, she practiced law at the same time she practiced reading astrology, tarot cards, and, essica Jeanne Youle passed away in the summer of in her words, more “hippy-trippy stuff.” 2018. Born in Illinois with an adventurous spirit, Jessica became a mother again in 1985 with Graham JJessica spent her summers attending horseback and 1987 with Andrew and imbued an appreciation of riding camps in places like Jackson Hole, and spent confident women and a love of the outdoors into her her junior year of high school as an exchange student “boyos”. Jessica moved on to Salt River Project in 1993, in Australia. She where she shifted her formed many lifelong focus to environmental friendships while law and served as getting her bachelor’s Senior Principal and master’s degrees, Counsel for Regulatory graduating with honors. Policy. Her career Shortly thereafter, reached a pinnacle Jessica’s father took her with an appointment out West for a rafting to Senior Director trip. This adventure for Energy Policy for sparked what would be the State of Arizona a lifelong appreciation under Governor Janet of and a deep loyalty Napolitano. Her time to the Colorado River on the river served as through Grand Canyon. an inspiration for her She was one of the first women to impactful career as an environmental become certified as a Grand Canyon lawyer. river guide (complete with a guide After retiring from law, she took license in which she is picking pleasure in the later period of her her nose) where she rowed large life by remaining close with her snout rigs. As both a guide and a wonderful friends, maintaining manager she became embedded her position as matriarch of her in the river community, fostering family, and getting to know her lasting relationships with iconic river grandchildren, Lyra and Tiana. characters of the day like Louise She retired to Cottonwood, Teal, David Winn, Phil Town, David Arizona, and filled her days with Edwards, Moley and many others. gardening, gourmet cooking, reading She went on to become one of the voraciously, and serving as a board first female owners of a commercial member for Habitat for Humanity. rafting company serving a decade Her boating days always stayed with Arizona Raft Adventures. As with her, from spray painting a leader in the river community, ammo cans in the driveway of her she prioritized scouting trips, Phoenix home, to being laid to rest conservative lines, and was one of the in her Tevas. Many of her friends only owners to shut down operations experienced her enduring love for in the historic flood of 1983, ensuring the river by joining her on trips. She both her customers and employees would stay safe. also raised her children to love boating. They still raft After giving birth to her first child, Alexandra, together, and Alexandra has followed in her mother’s she spent the next decade in Flagstaff, planting the footsteps as an owner of azra and an advocate for the seeds for her daughter to live a life of adventure and protection of Grand Canyon. strength. The next step in her journey was law; she Jessica is remembered for her tenacious spirit, graduated cum laude with a Juris Doctorate from arresting intelligence, stalwart devotion, loyalty to her Arizona State University in 1983. Her prestigious law friends, and unyielding love for her three children. career began at Lewis and Roca, where she became a partner and again forged strong friendships that Graham Cawley she would nurture throughout her life. True to the

boatman’s quarterly review page 7 The Journey

e are all on this spaceship we call planet few, lucky ones just going to hide out in the Big Ditch Earth, together, making our own journey forever? Or, we can go back to the idea that none of it Wthrough time and space, through the ever even matters in the big picture anyways. A million years changing and evolving world. I’m nearly certain that from now, no one will even know that we were ever one of the best places on planet Earth, to get your skull- here. But, if you’re like me, then none of those ideas are bound brain to contemplate the big going to cut it. So then, the question questions, is Grand Canyon. How still stands, “What can I do to make the heck did we get here anyway? my journey here on planet Earth Where did I come from? What does meaningful and joyful?” it all mean? You mean to tell me that I certainly do not have the rock is almost two billion years old?! answer for you and the answer, I’m These elements were formed inside sure, is different for everyone. The of stars?! Am I star dust too?! Will journey of a water molecule goes humans even be in the fossil record? from being part of the river, to a Will anyone even know that I ever cloud, to rain and back to the river existed? Where is it all going? Why is again. Some molten rocks make a there so much confusion, hate, and journey from the center of the Earth unhappiness in the world? What and harden into dark, dense masses can I do to make my very short, only to then transform to beautiful, miniscule fraction of time here clear, crystalline structures. What worthwhile, joyful and meaningful? then, in the big picture, is our That’s a lot to contemplate… destiny as humans? Where does And what usually happens on our own life fit in? Do we have a Grand Canyon river trip, in the potential to transform like a between these brief, lucid moments metamorphic rock before we drive of realizing our place in the big ourselves to extinction? picture, is that we live purely for We are all on a journey, and the day, laughing from one river I do know this, my friend…we mile to next with wild abandon will encounter rapids and rock and sheer joy, throwing all previous falls up until the very end. But, burdens of worries to the wind. with these obstacles come rewards What a liberation. Maybe that is and rainbows too, and it is up why we are here. Maybe we are to each and every one of us to meant to experience life within the guide our own boat through. We river of time, which has no past are responsible for our actions, and no future, only the present reactions and the words we do or moment, opening a new dimension do not say. We can realize that we of possibility. Maybe this is where are writing the script and that we’re life can truly be experienced in starring in our own play! We can its’ fullest form, free from the “The Journey” by Erica Fareio find and share our passions and conditioned beliefs that the past lend a loving, helping hand. We can has chained us to and free from be loyal, honest and courageous, the anxieties and expectations of what is to come. and know when to take a stand. Reality starts from “Idealistic, spiritual, bull crap”, I can hear you say, yes, within and is reflected in the world we see. So with an especially in these crazy, hard times. Not everyone has open mind and compassionate heart, we will endure the luxury of a river trip or even a full belly for that our journey more easily. Good luck, dear one and hold matter. Some now are mourning their lost, loved ones on tight when need be. Have faith and trust that there is or living a life plagued with violence and fear. So, what more to this than we can see. do we do? Do we just buy into the sadly popular idea that to each his own and screw everybody else? Are we Erica Fareio page 8 grand canyon river guides Stanton’s Cave: Another Important Grand Canyon Anniversary

ll Southwest river runners know that 2019 Stanton’s Cave (a willow lined beach that has long marks the 150th anniversary of John Wesley since migrated downstream). Our supplies included APowell’s first Grand Canyon expedition, an a field kitchen with enough canned and dehydrated epic journey memorialized this year by a spate of new food to last a month, and enough whiskey to entertain books about Major Powell’s life and explorations. a continual flow of visiting scientists. Sanderson Perhaps few know that 2019 marks another Grand Brothers River Expeditions supplied us with fresh Canyon anniversary: fifty years since the Stanton’s food supplements once a week. Lessons in food Cave archaeological expedition. preservation were quickly learned. We immersed The Stanton’s Cave project, sponsored by the four crates of fresh eggs in the cold waters of the National Geographic Society, Colorado in hopes that the was organized and led by chill would preserve the anthropologist Robert C. Euler, eggs for the duration of the assisted by Bruce Harrill of the project. Within a week or so University of Arizona, with a river water seeped through field crew of three current and the permeable egg shells former Euler students, Larry and spoiled the bulk of our Powers, Bob Page, and me (I stockpile, whereupon we was the youngest member of joined in a contest to see who the expedition, having just could throw a rotten egg to hit completed my sophomore the Red Wall cliff across the year at Prescott College). Our river (almost all our efforts fell main objective was to discover in the river, well short of the clues to the cultural affiliation mark!). and lifeways of the prehistoric To make a long story hunters who left caches of split short, the expedition failed twig figurines in Stanton’s and to achieve its main objective. other Grand Canyon caves. Over a hundred split twig Fashioned from split willow figurines had been illegally twigs (see photo), these unique removed from Stanton’s Cave artifacts have been found in prior to our study, and during caves in the Grand Canyon the course of our excavations and at multiple sites in the 74 additional figurines Mojave Desert of eastern were recovered, most from California, southern Nevada, beneath rock cairns near the and most recently from a cave mouth of the cave or from in southeastern Utah. Dating Stanton’s Cave. Photo credit: John Ware. the cave’s multiple pack rat to the late Archaic Period (circa middens. Unfortunately, with 3000 to 4000 years before present), split twig figurines the exception of some twined Yucca cordage (string) likely represent a form of imitative magic designed to associated with a nearby eleventh-century Ancestral ensure success in the hunt. Unfortunately, the hunters Pueblo occupation at the mouth of South Canyon, who placed the figurine caches did not live in the no cultural materials were found with the figurines. caves, so they left behind little in the way of diagnostic However, the recovery of paleo-environmental data material culture. Who were these enigmatic hunters? from Stanton Cave’s powder-dry deposits more than Our goal was to find out. made up for the archaeological deficits. And so, on June 11, 1969, we turned off Highway During the month-long project we completed 89 near Cedar Ridge and followed a faint two-track two test trenches down to bedrock, about 1.5 meters to within half a mile of the east rim of Marble (sixty inches) below the current cave floor. Roughly a Canyon where our helicopter was waiting to ferry meter down in both trenches we encountered a thick people and equipment down to the beach in front of deposit of driftwood that we had to “saw” through in boatman’s quarterly review page 9 order to extend Stanton’s Cave—a our trenches to proportion bedrock. In the similar to other interstices of the Southwest and driftwood limbs Great Basin and branches Pleistocene cave were pine needles deposits. It is and fragments doubtful that of pine cones, waterfowl entered similar to the the cave of their flotsam and own accord. jetsam often left Predators or on the beach scavengers were after the tide likely responsible goes out. At the for most of the time we had no duck remains, idea how old and fish bones the driftwood probably entered was (or else we Spilt twig figurines at the GCNP Museum Collection.Photo credit: Amy Harmon. the cave by the wouldn’t have same route. burned some of it in our campfire!). A date of 43,000 Bones from multiple species of native Colorado River +1800/-1500 years before present was eventually fish turned up in our screens, including the bones returned by the usgs radiocarbon lab at Menlo Park, of humpback chub, bonytail chub, Colorado River California. We also learned that many of the bones pikeminnow, flannelmouth sucker, and bluehead found above the driftwood layer were from extinct sucker. Of all the indigenous Colorado River fish, only Pleistocene (Ice Age) fauna. Due to the cave’s dry the razorback sucker was missing from the assemblage. conditions all the bones were un-fossilized, so their The remains of ungulates (hoofed mammals) ages could be directly determined by C-14—a rare were distributed throughout the cave deposits. paleontological deposit indeed! Eighty percent of the ungulate bones were identified By 1984, when the results of our excavations were as Harrington’s mountain goat (Oreamnos published, Stanton’s Cave remained the largest avian harringtoni), which became extinct at the end of fossil collection ever recorded in Arizona. Over a the Pleistocene. Bones of extinct horse (Equus sp.) thousand bird bones were recovered, nearly two- and camel (Camelops sp.) were also recovered, along thirds of which were sufficiently complete to allow with the bones of bighorn sheep (Ovis canadensis), species identification. The most exciting find was the dominant ungulate in the canyon today. The a partial cranium and complete right humerus of stratigraphic evidence suggests that bighorns likely a Merriam’s teratorn (Teratornis merriami), a large filled the ecological niche vacated by mountain goats Pleistocene raptor with an eleven-foot wing span. A at the end of the Pleistocene. In addition to bones, direct C-14 date from the Teratorn humerus came hundreds of ungulate fecal pellets were recovered in at 15,230 (± 240) years before present, near the in our excavation screens. Pellets in the upper 25 end of the last major Ice Age (the first direct age cm (ten inches) of cave deposits were similar in determination of this extinct species). In addition, size and shape to modern bighorn; below 25 cm the over 68 individual California condor (Gymnogyps sp.) slightly larger pellets of extinct mountain goats were bones were recovered. Five of these bones came from predominant. Studies of plant pollen and macro late Pleistocene stratigraphic levels, demonstrating plant parts preserved in the fecal pellets provided that condors were well established in northern Arizona a window into past environmental conditions in during and after the last Ice Age. Other important the Grand Canyon. For example, during the late bird finds included the remains of an extinct turkey Pleistocene the plant community around Stanton’s (Meleagris crassipes) and the complete skull of a clay- Cave resembled plants that now grow 1500 feet colored robin (Turdus grayi), whose current range above the current river level, and driftwood was rarely extends north of the Mexican tropics. dominated by Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) Bones from various waterfowl, mostly ducks, and cottonwood (Populus sp.). Significantly, pinyon accounted for just over half of the avifauna from pine, one of the dominant upstream species in the

page 10 grand canyon river guides Colorado River basin today, was absent from the rock fall is not known, so the jury is still out. driftwood assemblage. The results of the Stanton’s Cave expedition are Despite insights gained from an extraordinary summarized in a 1984 edited volume published by collection of paleo-environmental data, a significant the Grand Canyon Natural History Association: The mystery remains. How did driftwood get into a cave Archaeology, Geology, and Paleobiology of Stanton’s whose mouth is 44 meters (144 feet) above the current Cave, edited by Robert C. Euler, with chapters written river level? Entrenchment of the Colorado River in the by fifteen natural history scholars. In the conclusions Grand Canyon is measured in millions, not thousands of that volume, famed environmental scientist Paul of years, so it is unlikely that significant entrenchment Martin summarized Stanton’s Cave’s significance and has occurred in the last 43,000 years—an eye blink in the importance of preserving other Grand Canyon geological time. And at current river levels, it would cave deposits: “The caves and their contents are worthy take a flood of 283,000 cubic meters per second (nearly of the best efforts of National Park Service managers ten million cfs!) to inundate Stanton’s Cave. Could to protect them. Carefully studied, the contents of glacial melt and perhaps upstream ice dams during the the caves offer scientists a unique opportunity to Pleistocene have created such a massive flow? Perhaps, test various competing theories on the nature of Ice but it is unlikely that a flood of such magnitude Age climate change, the extinction of late Pleistocene would have deposited pine cones and needles in the fauna, and the fate of prehistoric man himself. The interstices of the driftwood deposit. The physical contents of its caves, no less than its scenery, are remains looked more like slack water deposits, raising worthy of the adjective ‘spectacular.’” the possibility of a dam somewhere downstream that backed up water into the cave. We know that John Ware downstream lava flows periodically damned the river, and large landslides may have created temporary Note: John Ware is a retired archaeologist who lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico. A former director of New Mexico’s Laboratory of lakes as well. Richard Hereford of the usgs in Flagstaff Anthropology and executive director of the Amerind Foundation suggested that a large rock fall in the vicinity of of southern Arizona, Ware is the author of A Pueblo Social Nankoweap Rapids—debris from the landslide is History: Kinship, Sodality, and Community in the Northern preserved near the mouth of Nankoweap Creek—may Southwest (School for Advanced Research Press). be closer in age to the flood that inundated Stanton’s Cave. However, the absolute age of the Nankoweap

“Our Only One” by Erica Fareio boatman’s quarterly review page 11 Guide Profile

Erica Fareio, Age 43

Where were you born & where did you grow up? I was born in Riverside, ca and then moved to Prescott, az when I was 13.

Who do you work for currently (and in the past)? I have worked for Arizona River Runners since 1997. In 2011, we took over Diamond River Adventure’s permit and made Grand Canyon Whitewater, now our sister company. I work for them too. It is two different booking offices but the crew and operations warehouse are one big happy family!

How long have you been guiding? For 22 years. Sure goes by fast!

What kind of boat(s) do you run? I learned on the S-Rigs and still drive them once or twice in a season. Mostly now I row an 18-foot oar boat. I’ve rowed the Dory a bit too, but never the whole way through and I’ve paddled some. year internship with Phyllis Hogan, renowned ethnobotanist and herbalist. Her daughters, Denise What other rivers have you worked on? I’ve worked and DeeAnn Tracy, were both river guides and they a handful of trips on the Rogue in Oregon and have were a big part of why I became enamored with the done lots of other rivers for fun. One of my favorites river guiding community. I’d hear all about their is the Pacuare in Costa Rica. It has that same sort of adventures and wanted more than anything to go magic that Grand Canyon has. on the river too. I felt like a little kid jumping up and down, shouting,“Pick me! Pick me!” So, first What are your hobbies/passions/dreams? I am one of opportunity I got, I went as a “work your way” on the lucky ones. My hobbies, passions and dreams have an arr motorized trip. I was hooked. I had found my morphed into this one, single thing: my everyday. tribe! Phyllis was amazingly supportive and I was able Living it. Striving to move forward. Striving to grow to still keep my job with her and do river trips. This and evolve—everyday. went on for a couple of years, then it was time to let someone else play the coveted part of Phyllis’ right Married/family/pets? Yes, I am married to the most hand woman. By then, I was doing ten to twelve trips amazing man I know who is also my best friend, John in a season. Taylor. For nearly six years, I have also been full-time mama, mentor and friend to his now w thirteen year- Who have been your mentors and/or role models? old son, Cash. We have two adopted rez dogs named It seems unfair to list any one person or just a few, Thunderbolt and Daisy. They (the dogs) just went on because there has been so many! Of course Phyllis their first ever boat ride out on Marshall Lake. It was Hogan and her daughters, DeeAnn and Denise. I very hilarious!!! much look up to them and they have inspired me to be strong and to do something unique and meaningful School/area of study/degrees? And what made with my life. Others…Bill Gloeckler, Walt Garrison, you start guiding? I started out as an art major at Russell Means, Serena Supplee, Jon and Ruthie Stoner, the University of Arizona and then the following Tim Whitney, Nancy Helin, Walt Taylor, my mom year transferred to nau and changed majors. I Alanna Larson…I could go on and on…love you all. have a background in botany with an emphasis The greatest mentor of all has been the river itself. on Southwestern ethnobotany. I also did a seven- The river has given me a path with heart. I have not

page 12 grand canyon river guides found a better metaphor than the river for our daily the towers. No kidding. It was an emotionally charged ups and downs, challenges and relationships. The river scene, for sure. Everyone was crying and everyone has taught me so much about believing in and trusting wanted to either call home or go home. We all sort myself, how be humble and open, how to commit and of felt helpless down there. The next few days were follow through, how to do your best and how to carry surreal and we took comfort in each other and in that over into other aspects of life. the Canyon. Our lower end “tag” trip didn’t make it because all air traffic had stopped and then we drove Is this your primary way of earning a living or do you out empty. I think everyone probably remembers combine it with something else? For about six years where they were when they found out about 9/11. now, I have been doing four river trips a year. For me, and where I’m at in life, this is perfect. The rest of the What’s the craziest question you’ve ever been asked year, and in between trips, I am focused on my art and about the canyon/river? You know that slab of family life. The river is still a huge part of how the art Coconino Sandstone that sticks straight up out of the and inspiration happens. It is essential, integral and I river that we call, “10-mile Rock”? This woman once cannot imagine life without it! asked, “Does that rock go all the way to bottom?!” I am no longer a “starving artist” which is pretty We’ve laughed so many times over this one, I think it’s cool! I feel very blessed to be able to make a simple, turned into a myth! happy life doing what I love. I am full of gratitude for the river guiding community and my family for What do you think your future holds? Well, if we cheering me on, being supportive, and buying my art. don’t run out of water or blow ourselves up, hopefully In the beginning, especially, I got lots of help from more of the same! For the near future, I have a show other river guide/artists on how to make that leap in December. I’ve been working on it all year and still from art as a hobby to art as an income. It has taken have a ways to go. It will be a continuous body of work years of hard work and dedication to the path to that depicts a visual journey of a snow flake from the finally feel like I can consider myself a successful artist. top of the San Francisco Peaks down the North side I am super stoked to see where it all goes. watershed, to the Confluence and eventually to the Sea of Cortez. It will artistically honor as many species as What’s the most memorable moment in your guiding possible throughout all significant life zones, biomes career? One that pops to mind is when we found and geological features. I can see myself really delving out about 9/11. It was an arr motor trip and we were in and going deep into this theme for quite a while and camped early at Granite. We were playing “hunker eventually doing a book. The intention would be not down” and having a birthday party. A private trips only to create beautiful art, but to help people see how rolls in to scout the rapid and one of the guys comes much there is that deserves protecting and how much over and says, “Crazy! All Hell’s broke loose up there!!” is at stake if we don’t all play a part. We had no idea what he was talking about. Did they have a bad run in Horn Creek? And then he proceeded What keeps you here? I love Grand Canyon. I love to tell us that the World Trade Centers were down and seeing other people fall in love with Grand Canyon. another jet had crashed into the Pentagon and on and I love my river family—they are the funniest, hardest on. We were stunned. At first we thought it was a joke. working, talented group of people I know. It feels good I guess they had called out at Phantom Ranch and got to have that camaraderie and be part of a tribe. the news. We had just stopped for water. In an attempt to not create chaos, we told him to not tell any of our passengers but, it was too late. A couple of kayakers Check out Erica’s art at EricaFareio.com pulled in down stream and had about half a dozen of and in person at her show opening on our passengers captivated by the horrible news. Soon, First Friday, December 6th at West of the we called home on the sat phone and got a hold of Moon Gallery ­— 14 n San Fransisco St in Stoner. And, sure enough, it was all true and worse. downtown Flagstaff. It will be up through We made an official announcement to the group after February. dinner. Nearly all of our passengers were from New York. And later, we found out that two of these guys were some of the actual civil engineers that poured the concrete for the World Trade Centers and between them all they knew over 200 people that worked in boatman’s quarterly review page 13 Back by Popular Demand— Point Positive Workshops, Fall 2019

uilding on the success of our inaugural Point Why should you sign up? We would like to share with Positive Workshop before the gts, the Whale you some of the compelling data and feedback from the BFoundation and Grand Canyon River Guides initial Point Positive Workshop last spring: are very excited to co-sponsor two free workshops for • 100% of respondents agreed/strongly agreed with our river community later on this fall: the statement: “The workshop provided was worth my time.” Point Positive Workshop Logistics • 90.1% of respondents agreed/strongly agreed Day/Date: Friday, November 1, 2019 with the statement: “The workshop provided Location: Canyon Explorations Warehouse, 675 W Clay was applicable to my work and provided useful Avenue, Flagstaff, az information.” Workshop 1 Time: 9:00-11:30 a.m. • Workshop Feedback Comments: Workshop 2 Time: 1:00-3:30 p.m. “This was so incredibly helpful and critical for our Grand Canyon community. I know you don’t care Workshop 1: Communication as First Aid for mandatory trainings, but I would love to see Workshop Registration Link: See Points Positive more outfitters include this in their pre-season Workshops under Guide Resources at www.gcrg.org. orientation. I am so grateful to gcrg & wf for hosting Audience: Grand Canyon river guides; Outfitter this. I would absolutely love to see more.” Leadership and Management Description: This optional two and a half hour “Workshop was very helpful, and seems necessary as workshop for guides and new leaders is intended an annual or semi-annual event. Would like to see to encourage effective conversations and this happen again, and would like to see greater interactions between fellow guides, guests, and attendance! The river community has limited team members. We know when trust in teams is access/options for management and leadership built and conflict is handled well, trips are safer, training within the realm of interpersonal more inclusive and respectful, and communications, relationship building, and ultimately more enjoyable people/team management. So this event was a great for everyone involved. option and hopefully it’s only the start.” This workshop begins to “As a first year guide and someone who isn’t a identify why it can be so “traditional raft guide” it helped me understand that challenging to have effective this job will be tough for reasons unrelated to our conversations, addresses boats or clients and that I shouldn’t feel alone or actively dealing with conflict afraid to speak up for myself or those around me.” head-on when necessary, and how to encourage trust and teamwork among crews. We all communicate all Everyone deserves to work in a positive, supportive, the time and we all can stand to do it a little better; and inclusive environment, even when the amazing this is an opportunity to learn how! workplace happens to be in the bottom of Grand Canyon. As Point Positive workshop participant, Workshop 2: Inclusive & Respectful Work Environments Melissa Giovanni, wrote in the last bqr, “We spend our Workshop Registration Link: See Points Positive trips striving to help our guests feel the magic of the Grand Workshops under Guide Resources at www.gcrg.org. Canyon. Imagine the magic we can cast when we all feel Audience: Outfitter Leadership and Management supported and valued within our own Grand Canyon Description: We understand that the issues of family.” (bqr Vol 32 #2, “Point Positive: Why We Need discrimination and sexual harassment have become This Workshop More Than Ever.”) We urge you to take a pressing national conversation. With this in advantage of these outstanding learning opportunities mind, Workshop #2 provides outfitter leadership/ to gain new skills and insight. These helpful workshops management with effective scenarios and tools to provide essential tools to serve our river community promote safe and respectful work environments, and and move us forward along the path of culture change. create an effective plan for inclusion. We’re all in this together!

page 14 grand canyon river guides GCRG “Day of the Dead” Celebration!

Where: Brad Dimock’s Boathouse • Meet and greet the changing faces of the 1000 W. Grand Canyon Avenue, folks at the forefront of our Grand Flagstaff, az Canyon community. Date/Time: Thursday, October 31, 2019, Other things you need to know: from 4:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. • Please carpool and park way down the hill Suggested donation: $20 (do not park in Brad’s driveway) Here’s the scoop on this super fun, • Dress for the weather—the event will be family-friendly event that celebrates mostly outside. the end of the river season while • Much of the brainstorming for this event honoring our shared river heritage and occurred at Lees Ferry, so you know it’s close-knit “river family”: going to be awesome, ha ha! • Historic boat replicas (with “ofrendas” honoring the river runners who You should join us! No need to register built the originals) in advance—just come on over to Brad’s • Mexican Food Truck (please bring $$) boathouse (aka Fretwater Boatworks) and celebrate • Music “Dia De Los Muertos” with gcrg! • Face Painting

Save the Date!

boatman’s quarterly review page 15 Glen Canyon Dam and the Colorado River: 56 Years of Ecosystem Changes, Ecological Surprises, and Consequences

Introduction contiguous United States, but just two of nearly a he regulated Colorado River ecosystem (cre) in dozen large federally-managed dams or diversions Grand Canyon, along with our understanding in the Colorado River basin. Glen Canyon Dam was Tand stewardship of it, have changed dramatically authorized under the Colorado River Storage Project since the gates of Glen Canyon Dam were closed 56 Act (1956), with construction beginning on June 15, years ago on January 2, 1963. The Colorado River 1960 and ending on September 13, 1963. The dam lies extends 293 mi (471 km) between Lake Powell (Glen 25 km upstream from Lees Ferry, about half way along Canyon Dam) and the delta of Lake Mead (created the course of the river, as its flows from southwestern by Hoover Dam), the two largest reservoirs in the Wyoming to the Sea of Cortez. Here I briefly describe

Table 1: A brief history of CRE changes in ecology, scientific understanding, and stewardship policy and practice. Some dates are based on the author’s memories and may warrant more specific research.

Year Novel CRE Change CRE Science Findings Policy Issues Year Novel CRE Change CRE Science Findings Policy Issues 1963 Flow regulation begins GC Dam construction completed 1963 LastFlow observedregulation Colorado begins GC Dam construction completed River Otter at Awatubi by GC Dam power production initiated GC Dam power production initiated 1964 1964 T. Bryant; Energy Fuels Flood flows affect sediment transport Reservoir equalization and channel 1984 GCESReservoir studies equalization underway and channel Clear water at Lees Ferry, Humpback Chub abundant at mouth Nuclear,Clear water Inc.'s at LeesHack Ferry,1 andHumpback CRE (vegetation) Chub abundant at mouth 1965 clearing flows of 65,000 cfs for one 1965 clearing flows of 65,000 cfs for one variable temperature of Paria River and at Lees Ferry Minevariable ura temperanium spillture of Paria River and at Lees Ferry month contaminates Kanab Creek month December rain-on-snow December rain-on-snow Sierra Club and David Brower prevent Sierra Club and David Brower prevent causes major tributary Toadscauses calling, major tributarybreeding 1966 construction of Marble Canyon Dam 1966 throughout CRE in construction of Marble Canyon Dam flooding, Crystal Rapid flooding, Crystal Rapid Flood flows affect sediment transport brings American environmentalism to life 1985 riverside pools; ca 2000 cfs GCESbrings studiesAmerican underway environmentalism to life becomes a major rapid becomes a major rapid and CRE (vegetation) flood through Royal Arch AGFD - truckloads of aquatic organisms, AGFD - truckloads of aquatic organisms, 1967 1967 Creek fish dumped into the river fish dumped into the river Toads calling, breeding 1969 Flood flows affect sediment transport Unprecedented interest in river running 1969 Unprecedented interest in river running 1986 throughout the CRE in side GCES studies underway and CRE (vegetation) P. Martin reports riparian poolsP. Martin reports riparian 1970 vegetation colonizing 1970 vegetation colonizing Scouring of shoreline vegetation; shorelines, esp. tamarisk shorelines, esp. tamarisk 1987 Return of normal low flows High flows do not stimulated GCES studies underway Clear, constantly cold Endangered Species Act; summertime Clear, constantly cold Endangered Species Act; summertime 1973 1973 mesquite growth water is now normal high flows water is now normal high flows GCES "Dam affects CRE; but how?"; First ecological inventory of 1988 First ecological inventory of Completion of GCES Phase 1 report 1974 Wilderness Act 1974 GCRGWilderness Association Act begins CRE CRE Bald Eagle concentration Waterfowl abundantly Waterfowl abundantly GCESII starts; planning experimental Endemic McDougall's Flaveria 1989 reported at Nankoweap Endemic McDougall's Flaveria 1975 occupy upper Grand 1975 occupy upper Grand flows discovered at Cover Canyon Creek discovered at Cover Canyon Canyon in winter Canyon in winter Last Leopard Frog Last Colorado Pikeminnow observedLast Colorado in Grand Pikeminnow observed in GC; Last Cobservedanyon; nesting in GC; GreatLast GC supports largest breeding Interior calls for an EIS on dam Humpback Chub in Feral burros constitute a major threat Reshaping rapids - will rapids worsen in BlueHumpback Herons Chub on Lake in populatFeral burrosion of constitutePeregrine aFalcons major threat in Reshaping rapids - will rapids worsen in 1976 19901976 operations; major flow experiments tailwaters?; last Northern to GC riparian zone post-dam time? Mead;tailwaters?; Ravenna last Northerngrass 48to GCstates; riparian experimental zone flows are post-dam time? begin; extreme daily flow variation ends Leopard Frog reported in invasionLeopard initiatesFrog reported in conducted Grand Canyon eGrandradication Canyon program; Only 4-6 Peregrine pairs severeOnly 4- 6winter Peregrine freeze pairs exist in GC; Muskrat Extreme drought causes Reclamation to exist in GC; Muskrat Extreme drought causes Reclamation to 1977 1977 EIS writing begins; Ravenna-grass observed at Mile 186L by run springtime flows of 1-2K cfs observed at Mile 186L by Flow experiments are conducted; run springtime flows of 1-2K cfs Wild Turkeys colonize removal in GC; Initiation of MLFF flow LES 1991 LES Kanab Ambersnail identified at Marble Canyon regime to protect resources until the EIS Roundtail and Bonytail Vaseys Roundtail and Bonytail isRedwoods completed Act (NPS finally recognizes Redwoods Act (NPS finally recognizes Chubs extirpated; last Chubs extirpated; last 1978 science as an attribute of National 1978 science as an attribute of National FirstRazorback Collared Sucker Peccary in GC Grand Canyon Protection Act requires Razorback Sucker in GC Dam operations influence Bald Parks); "Let's pack it all out" 1992 discovered north of considerationParks); "Let's ofpack env itironmental all out" as well caught at LCR caught at LCR Eagle foraging behavior United Nuclear Corp. Church Rock Mine Colorado River (204R) asUnited economic/pol Nuclear Corp.icy factors Church Rock Mine 1979 First riparian map of CRE vegetation (upper LCR) uranium spill, the argest 19931979 First riparian map of CRE vegetation First(upper planned LCR) uraniumflood experiment spill, the proposedargest uranium spill in US history uranium spill in US history Non-use values study completed - Blue-winged teal nesting 1994 Blue -winged teal nesting Americans care strongly about integrity on river in Marble Canyon; on river in Marble Canyon; of GC R. Turner and M. Karpiscak identify Glen Canyon Dam fills after 17 yr; brief R. Turner and M. Karpiscak identify Glen Canyon Dam fills after 17 yr; brief 1980 First GC Western 1980 LimitedFirst GC Chara Western colonization major riparian vegetation changes high flow event conducted 1995 major riparian vegetation changes high flow event conducted Threadsnake discovered at inThreadsnake Marble Canyon discovered at Mile 122 Mile 122 Recognition that planned high flows can GC Dam rewinding controversy and GC Dam rewinding controversy and LMFF flow regime First planned flood experiment took be used to manage sand deposits; Bald 19961981 discussion of hydropeaking flow impacts 1981 discussion of hydropeaking flow impacts proposed in EIS three years to implement Eagle down-listed; California Condor on Grand Canyon beaches on Grand Canyon beaches reintroduction GC feral burro removal program; Sec. GC feral burro removal program; Sec. Top-of-powerplant flow Limited benefit to sand storage from AMP ROD signed; Test of powerplant Interior James Watt throws funding at 1997 Interior James Watt throws funding at First Mallards nest in experimentFirst Mallards nest in top-of-powerplant flows capacity flow 1982 BOR to address dam impacts, BOR 1982 BOR to address dam impacts, BOR Marble Canyon Marble Canyon hires David Wegner, GCES Program New Zealand Mudsnail hires David Wegner, GCES Program invades CRE; endangered Grand Canyon waterbird diversity is begins begins 1998 First Endangered Bald SWWFFirst Endangered extirpated Baldfrom related to dam operations Eagles observed wintering GrandEagles Canyon observed wintering in Marble Canyon; LCR in Marble Canyon; LCR Flood flows affect sediment transport Extreme inflows fill, nearly destroy GC Flood flows affect sediment transport HumpbackExtreme inflows Chub fill,population nearly destroy considered GC 1983 mouth ponded, loaded with 1983 Humpbackmouth ponded, Chub loaded with and CRE (vegetation) Dam; river running impacts 1999 and CRE (vegetation) toDam; be threatened river running by impactsRainbow Trout; larval fish; Zebra-tailed popularvall ationfish; Zebracrash -tailed lizard extirpated from lizard extirpated from Peregrine Falcon delisted Grand Canyon Grand Canyon

page 16 grand canyon river guides the serial discontinuity concept (Ward and Stanford an ecological discontinuity, which can be mitigated by 1983) that largely explains why balancing environmental tributaries. In the case of the cre, the Paria and Little and economic values is so difficult in Grand Canyon. Colorado Rivers deliver fine-grained sediments and I then identify ecological changes that have occurred water in quantities that restore some of the natural over the past 56 years, as well as policy shifts that have qualities of the undammed river. Of course, the size influenced the cre development since its impoundment and location of those tributaries are critical to the by Glen Canyon Dam. I conclude with a discussion of extent to which natural mainstream conditions can be possible futures for this iconic river ecosystem. recovered. With the large Glen Canyon Dam positioned about mid-way along the Colorado River’s course, full Serial Discontinuity: Not an Interrupted Breakfast restoration of natural cre water quality and flow would Downstream river ecosystems respond to upstream require larger perennial tributaries than the Paria and impoundment through recovery of natural sediment Little Colorado Rivers. My colleagues and I estimated transport, water quality (e.g., water temperature), and that recovery of a quasi-natural water temperature other variables in relation to the distribution and size regime in the cre would require a thousand kilometers of tributaries downstream from the dam. A dam creates of unimpeded downstream flow, more than exists

Table 1: A brief history of CRE changes in ecology, scientific understanding, and stewardship policy and practice. Some dates are based on the author’s memories and may warrant more specific research.

Year Novel CRE Change CRE Science Findings Policy Issues Year Novel CRE Change CRE Science Findings Policy Issues 1963 FlowLast observedregulation Colorado begins GC Dam construction completed Flow regulation begins SummerGC Dam steady construction flows experiment completed (most 1963 Trout control effort begins; River Otter at Awatubi by costly ecosystem experiment at $35M - 1964 GC Dam power production initiated last Northern Leopard Frog GC Dam power production initiated T. Bryant; Energy Fuels Flood flows affect sediment transport 19642000 no significant benefit to GC resources); 1984 ReservoirGCES studies equalization underway and channel population in CRE Reservoir equalization and channel ClearNuclear, water Inc.'s at LeesHack Ferry, 1 Humpbackand CRE (vegetation) Chub abundant at mouth Clear water at Lees Ferry, Humpback Chub abundant at mouth Lees Ferry NPS-GCWC riparian 1965 clearing flows of 65,000 cfs for one 1965 disappears from -9L Marsh clearing flows of 65,000 cfs for one variableMine ura temperanium spillture of Paria River and at Lees Ferry variable temperature of Paria River and at Lees Ferry restoration project initiated month month contaminates Kanab Creek Steady summer flows, with December rain-on-snow December rain-on-snow Long heralded as the panacea for native Toads calling, breeding Sierra Club and David Brower prevent a May and a September Sierra Club and David Brower prevent causes major tributary causes major tributary This was one of the most expensive fish management, steady flows do not 1966 throughout CRE in construction of Marble Canyon Dam 1966 "spike" flow within construction of Marble Canyon Dam flooding, Crystal Rapid Flood flows affect sediment transport 2001 flooding, Crystal Rapid ecosystem experiments ever benefit native fish. Instead, steady flows 1985 riverside pools; ca 2000 cfs bringsGCES Americanstudies underway environmentalism to life powerplant capacity; brings American environmentalism to life becomes a major rapid and CRE (vegetation) becomes a major rapid conducted at the time. created favorable conditions for non- flood through Royal Arch nesting Great Blue Herons AGFD - truckloads of aquatic organisms, naviveAGFD plant - truckloads establishment of aquatic organisms, 1967 Creek 1967 at Lees Ferry fish dumped into the river fish dumped into the river Toads calling, breeding Double-crested Cormorant 1969 Flood flows affect sediment transport Unprecedented interest in river running 1986 throughout the CRE in side GCES studies underway 19692002 nesting in Glen Canyon FloodUnprecedented triggering criteria interest est ina riverblished running and CRE (vegetation) P.pools Martin reports riparian P.reach Martin reports riparian 1970 vegetation colonizing 1970 vegetation colonizing Scouring of shoreline vegetation; 2003 Grand Canyon tributary tamarisk control shorelines, esp. tamarisk shorelines, esp. tamarisk 1987 Return of normal low flows High flows do not stimulated GCES studies underway 2004 HFE Clear, constantly cold Endangered Species Act; summertime 1973 mesquite growth Clear,Nesting constantly Great Blue cold Herons Endangered Species Act; summertime water is now normal high flows 1973 Yard et al. (2005): Solar radiation Anoxic releases; Lees Ferry riparian 2005 waterat Lees is Ferry;now normal -9L Leopard high flows GCES "Dam affects CRE; but how?"; limits aquatic production in GC restoration project completed 1988 First ecological inventory of Completion of GCES Phase 1 report FirstFrog ecologicalpopulation inventoryextirpated of 1974 WildernessGCRG Association Act begins 1974 Wilderness Act CRE CRE Bald Eagle concentration Quagga Mussels collected Waterfowl abundantly GCESII starts; planning experimental 1989 reported at Nankoweap Endemic McDougall's Flaveria 2007 Waterfowlin random samplesabundantly in Lake 1975 occupy upper Grand flows Endemic McDougall's Flaveria Creek discovered at Cover Canyon 1975 occupyMead upper Grand Canyon in winter discovered at Cover Canyon Canyon in winter Hidden Slough restoration project Last Leopard Frog 2008 Lastobserved Colorado in G randPikeminnow Last Colorado Pikeminnow initiated; HFE observedCanyon; nestingin GC; LastGreat GC supports largest breeding observed in GC; Last Interior calls for an EIS on dam Tamarisk leaf beetle Steady fall flows do not increased Steady fall flows do not benefit native HumpbackBlue Herons Chub on Lake in Feralpopulat burrosion of constitute Peregrine a Falcons major threat in Reshaping rapids - will rapids worsen in 2009 Humpback Chub in Feral burros constitute a major threat Reshaping rapids - will rapids worsen in 19761990 operations; major flow experiments 1976 reported in GC endangered Humpback Chub growth fish tailwaters?;Mead; Ravenna last Northern grass to48 GC states; riparian experimental zone flows are post-dam time? tailwaters?; last Northern to GC riparian zone post-dam time? Leopard Frog reported in begin; extreme daily flow variation ends invasion initiates conducted LeopardMuskrats Frog obse reportedrved in the in Grand Canyon eradication program; 2010 GrandCRE; nesting Canyon Osprey in HFE criteria established Onlysevere 4- 6winter Peregrine freeze pairs OnlyGlen 4Canyon-6 Peregrine pairs exist in GC; Muskrat Extreme drought causes Reclamation to exist in GC; Muskrat Extreme drought causes Reclamation to 1977 EIS writing begins; Ravenna-grass 1977 Widespread tamarisk Desired Future Conditions established observed at Mile 186L by Flow experiments are conducted; run springtime flows of 1-2K cfs observed at Mile 186L by run springtime flows of 1-2K cfs Wild Turkeys colonize removal in GC; Initiation of MLFF flow 2011 defoliation in upper and by the Adaptive Management Work 1991 LES Kanab Ambersnail identified at Marble Canyon regime to protect resources until the EIS LESlower GC Group, but no metrics defined Roundtail and Bonytail Vaseys RoundtailHog-nosed and skunk Bonytail Redwoodsis completed Act (NPS finally recognizes 2012 HFERedwoods Act (NPS finally recognizes Chubs extirpated; last Chubrediscovereds extirpated in lower; last GC 1978 First Collared Peccary scienceGrand Canyon as an att Protectionribute of NationalAct requires 1978 science as an attribute of National Razorback Sucker in GC Dam operations influence Bald Razorback Sucker in GC 1992 discovered north of Parks);consideration "Let's packof env iti ronmentalall out" as well Razorback Sucker and Parks); "Let's pack it all out" caught at LCR Eagle foraging behavior caught at LCR Colorado River (204R) as economic/policy factors 2013 many Humpback Chub HFE United Nuclear Corp. Church Rock Mine detected in lower GC United Nuclear Corp. Church Rock Mine 19791993 First riparian map of CRE vegetation (upperFirst planned LCR) uranium flood experiment spill, the argestproposed 1979 Abundant quagga Mussel First riparian map of CRE vegetation (upper LCR) uranium spill, the argest uranium spill in US history 2014 HFE Non-use values study completed - veligers in Lake Powell uranium spill in US history 1994 Blue -winged teal nesting Americans care strongly about integrity BlueGreen-winged sunfish teal in Glennesting HFE deferred to prevent downstream on river in Marble Canyon; of GC 2015 First salamander discovered in CRE R. Turner and M. Karpiscak identify Glen Canyon Dam fills after 17 yr; brief onCanyon river inReach Marble Canyon; dispersal of non-native sunfish 1980 First GC Western R. Turner and M. Karpiscak identify Glen Canyon Dam fills after 17 yr; brief Limited Chara colonization major riparian vegetation changes high flow event conducted 1980 FirstContinued GC Western Green Sunfish 1995 Threadsnake discovered at Nonmajor-native riparian Phragmites vegetation at Pariachanges high flow event conducted in Marble Canyon Threadsnakeand Brown Trout discovered invasion at Mile 122 2016 Mile 122 Beach; Coati sighted at Spring Recognition that planned high flows can into the Glen Canyon GC Dam rewinding controversy and Canyon LMFF flow regime First planned flood experiment took be used to manage sand deposits; Bald reach HFEGC Dam rewinding controversy and 19811996 discussion of hydropeaking flow impacts 1981 discussion of hydropeaking flow impacts proposed in EIS three years to implement Eagle down-listed; California Condor Quagga Mussels density = Humpback Chub proposed for on Grand Canyon beaches Benthic and hyporheic anoxia on Grand Canyon beaches reintroduction 1000/m2 in Glen Canyon downlisting; Green Sunfish control GC feral burro removal program; Sec. dominate lower Lake Powell GC feral burro removal program; Sec. Top-of-powerplant flow Limited benefit to sand storage from AMP ROD signed; Test of powerplant 2017 Reach; also found in GC at efforts in Glen Canyon NRA; HFE not 1997 Interior James Watt throws funding at Reservoir and the Glen Canyon Interior James Watt throws funding at Firstexperiment Mallards nest in top-of-powerplant flows capacity flow FirstTapeats Mallards Cr and nest Granite in conducted due to lack of sediment input 1982 BOR to address dam impacts, BOR 1982 reach BOR to address dam impacts, BOR Marble Canyon MarblePark Canyon from the Paria River New Zealand Mudsnail hires David Wegner, GCES Program hires David Wegner, GCES Program invades CRE; endangered Grand Canyon waterbird diversity is begins Continued Green Sunfish, begins 1998 Brown Trout, and Quagga HFE; Bug flows initiated to increase FirstSWWF Endangered extirpated Bald from related to dam operations 2018 First Endangered Bald EaglesGrand Canyonobserved wintering EaglesMussel observedinvasion into wintering the aquatic foodbase; Green Sunfish control in Marble Canyon; LCR inGlen Marble Canyon Canyon; reach LCR Flood flows affect sediment transport Extreme inflows fill, nearly destroy GC Flood flows affect sediment transport Extreme inflows fill, nearly destroy GC 1983 mouth ponded, loaded with Humpback Chub population considered 1983 mouthContinued ponded, Green loaded Sunfish, with Humpback Chub and CRE (vegetation) Dam; river running impacts and CRE (vegetation) Dam; river running impacts 1999 larval fish; Zebra-tailed to be threatened by Rainbow Trout; larvalBrown fish; Trout, Zebra and- tailedQuagga HFE; Bug flows initiated to increase population crash 2019 lizard extirpated from Peregrine Falcon delisted lizardMussel extirpated invasion intofrom the aquatic foodbase; Green Sunfish control Grand Canyon GrandGlen Canyon Canyon reach

boatman’s quarterly review page 17 between the two reservoirs Table 2: Decadal overview of CRE changes in relation to policy and management decisions. (Stevens et al. 1997a). The theory that the ability of rivers to recover from impoundment depends on the location and size of the dams in relation to the drainage basin is called the “serial discontinuity concept” (Ward and Stanford 198_), a theory that also predicts where trade-off conflicts between natural and artificial fluvial processes are likely to occur. Therefore, cre stewardship is uniquely positioned to generate stewardship conflicts and controversy.

A Brief History of Colorado River Ecosystem Changes Many seemingly minor, but cumulatively important ecological changes, and some surprises, have occurred and catfish were introduced for food into the lower rather consistently over post-dam time. Some changes Colorado River Basin prior to 1909 (Grinnell 1914); occurred in Grand Canyon prior to the dam. For non-native tamarisk was introduced into that reach for example, Bermuda grass was introduced by the Bureau bank stabilization in the lower Colorado River basin of Indian Affairs into, and escaped downstream from, (https://www.gcrg.org/bqr/6-2/scourge.htm); and non- Havasu Creek after a severe flood in January 1910 native tamarisk leaf beetles were introduced a century (Melis et al. 1996). The nps unsuccessfully introduced later into southern Utah for biological control of Pronghorn onto the Tonto Platform, and successfully tamarisk. Many changes were intentional management introduced Rainbow Trout into Grand Canyon’s actions, such as the Arizona Game and Fish Department coldwater tributaries decades before the dam. Other introductions of a host of invertebrates and fish species changes occurred regionally outside of Grand Canyon, into the river at Lees Ferry just after completion of the either before or after the dam, with sometimes dramatic dam. Among the successful transplants were Gammarus impacts on the cre. For example, non-native carp scud, and Rainbow and Brown Trout (Stone and Rathbun 196_; Minckley 1991). In post-dam time, the cre continues to adjust to an array of internal and external ecosystem changes and transitions (Table 1). These can be roughly divided into different patterns on a decadal scale (Table 2), including: 1960s ecological transition shock; 1970s initial adjustment during the filling phase; 1980s unexpected dynamics related to flooding that ended the filling phase and initiated Wildlands/GRCA riparian restoration site at Mile 6.5R. reservoir management;

page 18 grand canyon river guides 1990s enforcement of ecological equilibration; 2000s normalization of dam management policy and practice; and 2010s reaffirmation of management policy and monitoring practices.

Discussion Humans modify ecosystems to suit their desires, typically by limiting natural disturbance dynamics and by simplifying ecosystem interactions and species composition. For examples: farmers seek to maximum production of (typically) a single crop species; construction of breakwaters on coast lines to protect poorly placed buildings; and wildfire suppression is conducted to maximize tree harvest. So too has it been with dam construction impacts: natural disturbance (flooding) is often reduced and controlled, and while sometimes more productive, aquatic species composition has been reduced and simplified, particularly through the loss of predators that might compete with humans. In the case of the cre, flood control by Glen Canyon Dam has stabilized the geomorphology of the river corridor, “training” it to the 45,000 cfs stage elevation through repeated planned high flows at or just below that level. Flow regulation has reduced and simplified aquatic diversity, although post-dam aquatic Roaring Center Springs. There is growing appreciation of the fact productivity is much greater than that in pre-dams that springs in GC provide 10,000 liters/sec of flow, making up 2012). Biological diversity in the aquatic domain is low nearly five percent of the base flow of the river. (although increased. In contrast, ecological stability of the riparian domain has resulted in colonization of upstream and upland geomorphic changes, or river the shorelines by both wetland/riparian and upland management policy shifts, as well interactions among plant assemblages, with riparian zonation largely antecedent events. I suggest that the Morisawa’s model driven by the physiology and regeneration niche is applicable not only to fluvial channel evolution, but requirements of individual plant species, as well as also to river ecosystem and even societal development. other biotic factors, such as palatability to beaver The model directly applies to the cre because the (Stevens 2012). Unfortunately, some of the nearly one channel and associated flood terraces serve form the hundred non-native cre plant species are replacing template that is colonized by river corridor life and other non-native species (Stevens and Ayers 2002). on which the ecosystem develops. Lagged ecosystem For example, since 1990, non-native Ripgut Brome has responses to changing conditions depend on the become widely established throughout the riparian magnitude, frequency, duration, and timing of physical domain, which formerly was dominated by the more changes in the channel and past events. For example, diminutive Red Brome. Dedicated river guides like Dan sediment deposits from the 1983–1986 post-dam high Hall have devoted considerable energy to preventing flows are still evolving. Humans create dams to increase some potentially disastrous non-native species from the extent and predictability of resource extraction (e.g., dominating the cre riparian zone, such as Ravenna water, power, recreational values), and perturbation by Grass. Bravo Dan Hall, and keep up that good work! events (e.g., an El Niño winter) and physical processes, as well as changes in societal demands, reset the Conculsions trajectory of river ecosystem development in a lagged In 1969, Marie Morisawa proposed the Dynamic fashion that never fully adjusts to those changes, and are Equilibrium Model, describing how river channel over-ridden by the next such change. geomorphology trends towards equilibrium (an We live in a world of uncertainty. Known unknowns energetically steady state condition), a state that is are abundant, such as the likely invasion of non- never achieved because perturbations from flooding, native Quagga Mussels and Phragmites reeds into boatman’s quarterly review page 19 the cre, or the likelihood of a debris flow at Bedrock surprises demonstrates that this river ecosystem is Rapid that closes off the right run. In addition, we are more complicated than we can understand, and will surrounded by unknown unknowns, changes that we continue to change in response to both internal and cannot begin to guess, but that stand to greatly alter our external, natural and anthropogenic, predictable and lives. For example, climate change may create entirely unanticipated events and processes. unanticipated extreme events, such as tornados on the rims or long-duration droughts that dry up the Larry Stevens river. Glen Canyon Dam has controlled and simplified the cre, but the steady progression of ecological References: References cited herein are available on request from the author.

Book Reviews

Canyon Country Explorations & River Lore The archeology, ecology and history of the region. You will Remarkable Resilient Life of Kenny Ross; Gene find few colorful, flowery flourishes or unsubstantiated Stevenson; Living Earth Studios; 2019; 517 pp; stories in this book. As a geologist Gene writes in a isbn 978-1793136039; $28.50. factual, if not pedantic style that could be used as a college textbook but it is all there and nothing is eighing in at over two pounds this book amiss. If you are just interested in Kenneth Ross, you defies the term “heavy weight!” For anyone will have to delve into the background of each topic. Winterested in Glen Canyon, the San Juan River As an example, there are around ten pages about the to its Confluence with the Colorado River, or the Four Monument Valley Rainbow Bridge Expeditions leading Corners Area, this book is for you. It is to just over a page about Kenny’s role in worth the price for the historic pictures the project. If you are really interested alone. There are hundreds of previously in further pursuing an topic, there are unpublished photos of Ross, of areas a plethora of notes and references that now under Lake Powell, or ones that provide depth and background for have been long forgotten, with such Gene’s book. celebrities as Georgia O’Keeffe and Eliot I believe one reason for Gene’s Porter. exacting research and writing is related Geologist, river runner and writer to wanting his work to be above Gene Stevenson lives in Bluff, Utah and reproach, especially to those who give is probably the most knowledgeable credit to many of Ross’s achievements person about the San Juan River and the to other historic river runners. This Four Corners Area. I know that the past book fills in a giant hole in the several years, researching and writing history of river running, as well as the this book have consumed Gene. documentation of the now flooded/ Kenny Ross began exploring the canyons of silted Lower San Juan Canyons and Glen Canyon. Gene’s southern Utah in the 1930s. He was an astute geologist, book puts Ross into the history that defined him. archaeologist, and naturalist. His enthusiasm for sharing On September 29, 2018, Kenny Ross was inducted his knowledge made guiding trips into the region’s into the River Runners Hall of Fame at the John Wesley canyons and rivers a natural calling for Ross. Kenny’s Powell River History Museum in Green River, Utah. early years included many river trips before construction of Navajo and Glen Canyon Dams, affording exciting Herm Hoops rides on the unimpounded snow melts from the Colorado Rockies. Between 1950 and 1963 Southwest Downriver—Into the Future of Water in the West; Expeditions/Wild River Expeditions ran frequent Heather Hansman; University of Chichago Press; 2019; 225-mile San Juan River trips to the confluence of the 248 pp; isbn 978-0-226-43267-0; $25.00 Colorado and then through Glen Canyon prior to Lake Powell. eather Hansman weaves her 700-mile trip Stevenson didn’t just write about the oft overlooked down the Green River with a panoply of Kenny Ross, he put Kenny into context with the geology, Hwater issues like a esthetical Navajo rug. Her

page 20 grand canyon river guides writing style is colorful, descriptive, on historic and future water issues. pleasant and very readable. Heather’s The book covers everything from the interaction with the people she meets Colorado River Compact, Central Utah along the way helps focus and explain Project and many other laws, regulations, her storyline. For those unfamiliar concerns and agreements from the past. with the rules and attitudes about It is a look into culture and how culture water in the West, Heather sugars them affects people’s views on the limited off into understandable descriptions water. The book is a great introduction to explanations. This is one of the very few Western water rights for novices who are books that address the effects of climate just beginning to understand water issues change on the rivers of the Colorado in the arid West and it is a great refresher Plateau. A book of this scope is bound to the issues of water on the Colorado to have errors or omissions. For Plateau. It ponders, throughout what do example, she overlooks one important we want the future of our water to be? group in her writing: The doctrine of the Latter-Day Saints and their impact Herm Hoops

Eye of Odin

his painting is inspired by Lava Falls, the Granddaddy of all rapids in Grand Canyon. It’s Ta muddy river with storm clouds brewing to add to the already ominous feeling that you experience in this moment, just before plunging into the frothing waters below. The river boils, churns and swirls in an unpredictable path that will hopefully funnel you just to the right of the Ledge Hole, a feature at the top of the rapid that would surely shred your boat and everything in it. If you have the courage to take your eyes off the quickening entry, maybe you can sneak a glance up at the Eye of Odin, a window in the columnar jointing of the ancient lava flows. The window can only be seen from the river, as you’re entering the rapid and nowhere from shore or the scout. Odin is the god of war and death according to Norse mythology. Upon visiting the Well of Wisdom, Odin begged Mimir (the well custodian) for a drink. Mimir said he must pay for it with one of his eyes, which Odin then gave him. With his newfound wisdom, Odin brought to mankind the runic alphabet and poetry. Whether or not you are able to make contact with the Eye of Odin in this highly charged moment of focus and fate, The Eye sees All who dare to pass through Lava Fall’s Gate!!

Erica Fareio

“Eye of Odin” by Erica Fareio

boatman’s quarterly review page 21 Cooler Research— An Evaluation of A Damp Towel Cooler Cover

Introduction Bottom). A red dotted horizontal line shows the Park oolers or “ice chests” are commonly used to Service upper limits for Commercial Operators. A store food and beverages when electricity is not blue dotted horizontal line shows the freezing point of Cavailable. Refrigerated storage helps prevent water. In the graphs and summary table, we included sickness due to foodborne microorganisms. The the data for Drained versus Undrained Blocks from National Park Service “2016 Commercial Operating our previous article (References 2 & 3) for comparison. Requirement” states that commercial operators must keep “potentially hazardous” food at or below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7.2 degrees Celsius). (Reference 1) This fourth Cooler Research article evaluates the performance of a cooler containing frozen water bottles when covered with a wet towel.

Methods and Materials The experimental setup and protocol was described in a previous article (Reference 2) and remains the same. Room temperature was continuously monitored and maintained at 107.2 degrees Fahrenheit (41.8 degrees Celsius) with a standard deviation of 0.09 degrees Fahrenheit (0.05 degrees Celsius) over a typical five day run. Figure 1. 24.0 kilograms of ice were used in each cooler, 47 percent of the manufacturers stated capacity of 113 pounds. The bottle ice was formed in 12 two-liter soft drink bottles, each filled with two liters water. Experiments were initiated by removing the ice from a freezer, loading it immediately into coolers and closing the coolers. Each cooler lid was held down using two nrs nine-foot tie-down straps around the lid and cooler. The test cooler had the top and sides covered with a snug fitting bag made of sewn together Terrycloth towels. The bottom of the cooler was not covered. The bag was kept wet by periodically irrigating the towel at the top of the cooler. Excess water was recaptured Figure 2. and returned to the source reservoir at the bottom of the test chamber. A large de-humidifier was added to the test chamber in order to promote evaporation. Relative Humidity was monitored and held to 35 percent or less.

Results The results for each cooler are described below and the data presented in graphs. The temperature at the Bottom, Mid-Low and High sensors is plotted versus the hours since closing the cooler. For both coolers there is an initial period (Phase 1) of approximately ten hours when the freezer temperature ice is warming up. The header of the graph identifies the vertical Figure 3. position of each sensor in the cooler: (High, Mid-Low,

page 22 grand canyon river guides Bottom: The results for the temperature at the The drier the air, the more water vapor it can Bottom are plotted in Figure 1. The temperature stays hold and the more rapidly water will evaporate. The below the Commercial Operators Limit of 45 degrees more rapidly the water evaporates, the more heat Fahrenheit for 28 hours for the Towel Vertical Bottles. that is transferred into the air and the less heat that is Mid-Low: The results for the Mid-Low temperature available to be transferred into the Cooler to melt the are plotted in Figure 2. The temperature stays below ice and increase the internal temperature. the Commercial Operators Limit of 45 degrees In our testing, we were unable to get the Relative Fahrenheit for 111 hours for the Towel Vertical Bottles. Humidity of our test chamber as low as that found in High: The results for the High temperature are most of the Southwest United States. Were we able to plotted in Figure 3. The temperature stays below the accomplish that, our results would have shown even Commercial Operators Limit of 45 degrees Fahrenheit more improvement in cooling performance. for 96 hours for the Towel Vertical Bottles. Conclusion Discussion The results of this study show that a wet towel draped The Table above summarizes the results. over a cooler significantly enhances Cooler performance In order to discuss the mechanism and effects of at all three test levels for the entire test run. using a wet towel to enhance the performance of a This concludes our initial investigations into Cooler, we need to define a few terms. various ice strategies. Subsequent work will focus When Coolers are exposed to high temperatures, on measuring the performance differences between energy is transferred from the high external various Cooler brands. temperature to the lower internal temperature of the Cooler. This transfer of energy is called Heat Blakely LaCroix & Peter Werness, Ph.D. and is measured in calories. One calorie is the Cooler Research, Inc. amount of energy transfer (Heat) required to raise ([email protected]) the temperature of cubic centimeter of water by one degree Celsius. It takes eighty calories of Heat to melt Acknowledgements: one gram of ice. And it takes 540 calories to evaporate The authors wish to thank Wrenchman, Inc. for providing 100 facilities, equipment and support. Much of this work was one gram of water at degrees Celsius and convert inspired and guided by Dr. Rufus Lumry of the University of it to to one gram of water vapor. Minnesota Laboratory for BioPhysical Chemistry. Dr Lumry was Temperature is a measure of the average Kinetic one of the world’s leading authorities on the physical properties Energy of the molecules of a body, such as the of water. air surrounding a Cooler or the air inside. Since Temperature is an average, some of the molecules are References: 1. 2016 Commercial Operators Requirements, Page 18, Section 2a. more energetic than the average and some are less 2. LaCroix and Werness: Cooler Research: An Evaluation of energetic. Drained Versus Un-Drained Coolers Loaded With Ice, The When we place a wet towel around a Cooler, we Boatman’s Quartery Review, Inc., Volume 31, Number 4, are exposing water to the surrounding air. The more Winter 2018–2019, pages 6–8. energetic molecules in the water will have sufficient 3. LaCroix and Werness: Cooler Research: An Evaluation of Block Ice Versus Bottle Ice The Boatman’s Quartery Review, energy to convert into water vapor. For each gram of Inc., Volume 32, Number 2, Summer 2019, pages 26–27. water that evaporates, 540 calories of heat are removed from the towel and transferred into the air.

boatman’s quarterly review page 23 Andy Hall Found His Home In The Arizona Territory

ndy Hall burst onto the scene of American Andy was an American immigrant by age seven and History when he joined the 1869 John his youth was part of a Scottish settlement in Illinois. AWesley Powell Expedition. The stories of this This community possessed a strong abolitionist view, expedition and of his untimely death at the hands of actively participated as a stop on the Underground robbers are well-documented facts, but what about Railroad, and played host to Abraham Lincoln as the other years of he campaigned for Andy’s life? More Senator in 1858. Their importantly, why is he Presbyterian church lying somewhere in an conducted worship unmarked grave? services in Gaelic With my reading and this language glasses firmly in place, undoubtedly remained pen and paper in a part of their everyday hand, and plenty of lives. Andy carried a research experience heavy Scottish brogue under my belt, I throughout his life. embarked on a Andy was fearless journey to find Andy and possessed a desire Hall. After all, he is to find adventure. Many my third great uncle accounts have Andy and a family legend leaving home at an age who, at the very least, of sixteen years old or deserves to have a even younger; however, marked grave. While Andy stayed with his peeling back the layers family throughout of time and digging his childhood. It was through old records I not until after Andy discovered something was eighteen years old truly amazing. Andy’s and his older brother life story firmly places returned home from him in many layers of the Civil War that he left American History. home. He did not leave Born in alone as his friend and Roxburghshire, cousin, Adam Turnbull Scotland during the left with him. No one Highland Potato knows for sure why Famine years, Andy left. Possibly, he Andy’s family and wanted to experience neighbors found his own adventures just themselves in an area Andy Hall as a child. as his older brother had of high education and while fighting in the dwindling jobs. Civil War or he wanted Emigration to America provided a possible answer to find his riches “Out West” just as his Uncle Henry to an unknown future in Scotland. Many neighbors Scott had as a 49er. Whatever the reason, leaving home and family members began to leave this once secure was not a pleasant event. It is apparent from letters area of southern Scotland and settled in Stark County, written by Andy that his family was angry that he had Illinois. After Andy’s father passed away, Andy’s left home and was disobedient to his mother. This mother, with her three children in tow, followed her family tension left its mark on Andy after he and Adam family and neighbors toward a hope and vision that joined on as drivers for a wagon train headed to Fort America offered. Laramie, Dakota Territory.

page 24 grand canyon river guides Andy settled in working as return one day with earnings so a ranch hand just outside of substantial they would support Fort Laramie and subsequently him for the remainder of his days. became part of that American After the death of his mother in frontier stock that forged a 1873 and his two siblings moving life in the early days of the on with their own lives, Andy no American West. He found the longer had a home in which to adventure he sought living in return. this territory during Red Cloud’s Andy’s life was oftentimes War. Andy survived skirmishes lonely; however, his frontiersman with Native American Indians, courage and roaming ways spent long lonely days and nights eventually led him to a home and herding livestock, and had very friends in the Arizona Territory. little money and resources for Andy began to appear in local survival. Adam soon threw in his newspapers, becoming part of towel and returned to Illinois. the Arizona Territory and its Demonstrating his strong resolve, people. He participated in local Andy stayed behind. His letters events and maintained a variety home express his love for family, of city jobs in Florence. Wells his forgiveness of their poor Fargo opened stations in the area treatment toward him when he Andy Hall, post 1870. and Andy began working as a left, and the underlying theme messenger for their routes in the of returning home when he had something to show territory. While maintaining a job with Wells Fargo, for his life in the west. These letters demonstrate Andy he also served as constable of Florence. Being a close desperately wanting to prove himself and be a success. friend of Sheriff Pete Gabriel, Andy acted as his deputy Cutting his losses and returning home was not an and was well liked and respected in the area. option. Unfortunately, the very characteristics that brought In his quest for survival, adventure, and riches, Andy through the Northern Territories, the Powell Andy was always in the midst of historic events. Not Expedition, and into the Arizona Territory became his only was he a witness to and a participant in the demise. It was Andy’s daring bravery and willingness Indian Wars of the Dakota Territory and the Sioux to go out in pursuit of robbers that placed him directly Treaty of 1868, he wintered one season in Browns Hole, into the hands of his murderers on August 20, 1882. On Utah Territory. Browns Hole was the target of many this day Andy became the first Wells Fargo messenger cattle rustlers and bandits as they played out their killed in the line of duty in the Arizona Territory. Andy thieving ways or simply hid out from the law. I often is buried in an unmarked grave in section four of the find myself wondering about the company Andy kept Old Globe Cemetery located in Globe, Arizona. His and the individuals he may have encountered. life was short but well lived. The westward railroad expansion and the Union Andy’s life is like a thread woven into the fabric Pacific Railroad eventually provided Andy with a job of American history. Andy did not find something hauling lumber on the Green River using his own tangible to take home and prove whatever it was he handmade boat. It was during this time that John set out to prove. However, if he could look back on his Wesley Powell took notice of this young, boasting, life now, he would see that he did leave his mark on storytelling, Scottish lad. Was it Andy’s knowledge of the history of this country, and more importantly, he the region, his survival skills and ingenuity, or merely would see that his family is proud. encountering a fellow Illinoisan that led Powell to sign Andy up as the tenth and youngest member of Becky Stephens the 1869 Powell Expedition? No one really knows. In the end, it transplanted Andy from the Northern Territories into the Arizona Territory. After his adventure down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, Andy roamed the Arizona Territory for a few years still searching for riches. He continued to write letters home speaking of his

boatman’s quarterly review page 25 Photo: Dugald Bremner, courtesy of Ellen Tibbetts

Ellen Tibbetts

Mary Williams: Where did it all start? Where’d you folk songs, labor songs, and hearing the music. My grow up? mom had grown up part of the time in New England Ellen Tibbetts: Well, I grew up in—I was born in and spent time in the White Mountains of New Virginia, but my family moved to Madison, Wisconsin, Hampshire. Maybe that’s why I developed a feel for when I was two, so I really grew up in Wisconsin. hiking. In Virginia, my dad was a Labor Representative for We lived a couple of places, but most of the time the Textile Workers Union at the Dan River Mill was on the west side of Madison, which was really in Danville. In Madison he was an instructor, later nice, and it was close to farms and fields and stuff like on a professor, with the School for Workers at the that. And so really, for me, the beginning of being University of Wisconsin. outdoors or outside was when I got a horse, and that Williams: What’s the School for Workers? was when I was about ten years old. And before that, Tibbetts: The School for Workers provides labor as kids we’d take riding lessons. There was a stable education to union members. So my dad would close by where you could ride a horse for an hour or teach night classes, weekend institutes, and training something. And it was kind of a wreck of a place, but programs at the uw extension campuses around the that’s the place that eventually turned into a boarding state. My mom was mostly our mom, but she also stable, and that’s where I boarded my horse. And it was taught fifth grade. Both of my parents were (are) within walking distance of our home. So I could leave talented, creative people. My dad played the guitar, the house and walk through the lower field and go up my mom played the mandolin. The music was mainly to the barn. A lot of things there needed fixing. The just for fun. Growing up we were used to singing horses got out of the pasture a lot, and my dad would

page 26 grand canyon river guides fix fences. But it was all up to us kids to take care of Buck—by the time Buck was three years old, I had the horses. To board a horse there, it was $17 a month. done all this work with him on the ground—you And that meant it was your job to buy your own hay know, walk, trot and canter on the longe line. I had and grain, bring the horse in, turn the horse out. It gotten him used to the saddle. By the time I actually was all up to the kids, and it was really great because got on him, he was like, “Yeah, whatever.” we had this little community of mostly girls that had We participated in local horse shows with help horses up there. We rode together, we sometimes took from my Mom and other parents. Our own stables care of each other’s horses. put on a show every summer. It started out as just a Williams: Kind of had a gang. kid thing, we got sponsors for the trophies, ribbons Tibbetts: Kind of had a gang. Really, I have to credit and payment for a judge and announcer, and each my parents, it did keep us out of trouble. We went up year it got bigger. After a year or two, there were horse to feed the horses before school, at five in the morning, trailers, and people we didn’t even know coming from rain or shine, forty below zero, twenty below zero, all over the state. My parents helped a lot with putting broke the ice on the water trough, brought the horses on that annual show. My dad made the flyer. My in if they were cold, that kind of thing. And after brother ran the Pepsi stand. school we couldn’t get away soon enough to go up There are four of us [kids]. I am the second-oldest. and be with them. So I think all through junior high So my sister, Mary, she had a horse first. Then I got and high school it was a really healthy environment, a horse. And then Dorothy, who is six years younger not only keeping us out of trouble, but we had our than me got a horse. My brother, Steve, was not that own little group of friends up there and it taught us interested in horses, but he had his own thing going responsibility—nobody else was going to take care of on, which was music and a band. those horses except us. And again, my parents were great and supportive, So I had a horse, a white mare, her name was Sugar. letting my brother’s band play in our basement, but And then I had her bred, [for $40] which was a big they had rules. They couldn’t play past ten p.m., but deal, and then a year later raised this young colt, and on Saturdays, 10:30. Playing and practicing in the was able to train him. basement kept them from wandering and finding a Williams: Wow. And how long did you have him? not-so-safe place to practice. Tibbetts: Let’s see, he was born in ’64. That was Williams: And then he made his living as a when I was about twelve. I had him through college musician, right? but never brought him out to Arizona. My sister, Tibbetts: And he grew up to be, and still is, a well- Dorothy, took care of them while I was gone. As a kid, known musician. [Editors note: https://stevetibbetts. I had lots of books on training, riding, horsemanship, com/] etc. I was a member of 4h. I subscribed to Western Horseman magazine. So by the time—his name was * * *

Williams: When you were young, did you always draw? Or how did your whole art thing begin? Tibbetts: Yeah, from the time I can remember I was really encouraged to draw, in fact all of us kids were. My dad would bring home stacks of paper, mimeograph paper, and it was plain paper and we could draw on it. We used to take these summer drives across the country back east to Vermont and New Hampshire, which is where my mother’s family and my father’s family both had summer homes—where my grandparents lived. And we’d take two or three days and drive in the station wagon—no air conditioning—and boatman’s quarterly review page 27 to keep us occupied, my dad would tell us what to way to Flagstaff, was it pretty obvious that art was the draw. He would think for a while and then come up direction…sort of your focus? with a word, a big word, and he’d say “ok I want you Tibbetts: Well, art was all I thought I could do, to draw an onomonapia.” I would draw what I thought really. (laughter) And had I known something like an the word might look like. Well, the other one that art school existed maybe I would have wanted to go comes to mind was a thesaurus. “How about if you there. I think my parents just wanted me to get a well- draw a thesaurus?” Of course you’d say, “Well, what rounded education. And, I didn’t have a lot of choices should I draw?” He’d think for a really long time, in terms of schools because I didn’t have an excellent and then he’d come up with, “Well, you could draw high school record…you know… a parable.” And then another one I remember, was Williams: Like you weren’t valedictorian? a diphthong. But anyway, I really latched on to the Tibbetts: Yeah, and so nau (Northern Arizona drawing. And then in grade school and high school University) was a pretty good fit. (laughter) And I I got good grades in art classes so at an early age it stumbled on to a great ceramics program there, just became an identity. Kids would ask me “Can you draw kind of by accident. this? Can you draw that?” and I’d do it. So I had an ability, but * * * also I think I just got a lot of encouragement. I met Ellen Tibbetts in the mid-1980s in As a kid, art classes and Hurricane, Utah and was fortunate to have done gym class were my best and a number of Grand Canyon trips with her over a favorite subjects. I could span of ten years. kick the ball, I could run fast. What can I say? She is a boating mentor, an [By the way—fast forward art inspiration, and one of the wittiest people to the river—Moqui never I know. Her collector-worthy illustrations beat me running backwards! have graced many a cover of the illustrious Moqui [Mark Johnson] could “Hibernacle News” (A Grand Canyon run backwards really fast. Dories-centric publication produced on a He had learned how from semi- or not-so-semi regular basis since basketball practice, I think. 1979). Her ability to not only render the He would challenge the gals lines of boats, but capture their character, is on a river trip to a race on the astonishing. beach. Him running backwards Ellen’s accomplishments as a Grand and us running the regular way, Canyon hiker, boater, and as a studio ceramic forwards. He beat a lot of people artist (etibbettsart.com) are extraordinary, but I’m pretty sure he never beat but as one who prefers to “fly under the me.] And everything else in radar,” she’s the last person to tell you about school was interesting to me, but it. Her kindness, skills, and creative humor I wasn’t…I don’t think I was very are well appreciated by those lucky enough to good at taking tests, I was never a find themselves in her orbit. As such, it was book reader. I liked books if they great fun to conduct these “interviews” with had pictures (laughter). And the rest her in June and July of 2019. of it, I was interested, but I just don’t think I was…I wasn’t labeled as a —Mary Williams “smart” kid. I was just able to maintain a stable status throughout grade school, * * * junior high, and high school by sort of having these two things I could do. I Tibbetts: I always wanted to go west. preferred sort of flying under the Another thing our family did was ski a radar, like I didn’t want to be, you lot. I mean, to us it was skiing a lot. To know, too obvious. I wasn’t outgoing, I people who lived in the West it probably was pretty reserved and shy as a kid. Illustration for wasn’t a lot, because we just had little… Williams: So then when you got the Grand Canyon Historic Boat you know, we didn’t have big mountains out of high school and you made your Project’s Masquerade Ball, 2004 in Wisconsin, but we would go up north

page 28 grand canyon river guides to Northern Wisconsin or Michigan and ski for the weekend, a few times a year. And then as we got older, we would start taking trips to Colorado just once a year. That was really a big deal for us, the real mountains…I mean, we could all ski, but we never got to be gnarly skiers like we kind of really dreamed of. (laughter) And my dad and mom were both really big on lessons, so every time we would do one of these trips, we would all take a lesson and practice our stem turns and stuff. So I really had this desire to go west. I remember reading about this really neat school, Prescott College. I thought wow, I want to go there. But my parents didn’t think that would be such a good idea. And they were probably right. I just thought the West was cool—you know, horses, skiing, wide-open spaces. It was sort of a romantic fantasy. When I was a junior in high school my mom and I went to visit several schools in the West. When we visited nau, we drove through Sedona. I had never seen anything like it. The Red rocks, the cactus, I even took some cactus With Don Bendel, 2000. Photo: Knut Macormick home in my suitcase—bad idea—but I just had never seen anything like it other than in the movies. And they were in a sorority or fraternity, and I just did not so yeah, I ended up going to nau. I went there and fit. But the hiking club was a really good fit. When I majored in art went to a hiking club meeting for the first time, the Williams: Was ceramics—I mean, that became your President and Vice President of the club had been main focus, but was it in the beginning, or how did missing in the Grand Canyon for several days. (See that…? Susan Billingsley’s interview in bqr 20:3, Summer 2007) Tibbetts: No. I had never taken a ceramics class, When I heard that, I knew this is the club for me! we didn’t have it offered in high school. I just thought And that was another thing. I’m not sure how I even art was drawing and painting. So I took drawing and got through school, between hiking and pretty much painting classes and then my second year was when I living in the ceramics studio. Because the hiking club, took a ceramics class. Or maybe it was the end of my we would organize our classes so that we could take off first year, and that’s when I met Don Bendel who was on Friday. You’d schedule your classes so all you had a new teacher there, and he had come from Wisconsin was, “Oh, just got a lab,” and you could do something too, so we had this connection. But he also was just a that you could either skip, or you didn’t have to do. really good teacher, a good guy. We just really…right And then we just disappeared for three days, and it was away he was comfortable to be around. He was also always in the Grand Canyon. There was a core group real different than…You know, nau is was a pretty of us that really…We didn’t want to go anywhere else, conservative school, so everything had been the same we just wanted to go in the canyon. And several of for a long time. But when he came in, he started those people, George Billingsley being one of them, showing us how to build kilns, plumb gas lines…if and Al Doty, Bob Dye, and Jim Sears, were geologists, there was anything we wanted to do, he would let us or studying geology, so they wanted to go somewhere figure it out. And he just really turned us loose and where there was a fault, or there was some formation showed us…He brought in all kinds of great artists to they wanted to look at, or a spring or a route they do workshops. He was very motivating, you know. wanted to explore. Williams: So they weren’t interested in the Bright * * * Angel Trail or the South Kaibab, particularly. Tibbetts: No. We did a lot of off-trail hiking, and Tibbetts: And then the other thing with nau was I even back then in the early seventies, there weren’t a joined the hiking club. Skiing was too expensive, there lot of people hiking. It wasn’t a thing, like it is now. was no way I was going to go skiing. I remember going In fact, I don’t even think in the beginning we needed to the ski club [meeting], and everybody had these permits. Then they started having to get a permit, fancy clothes and make-up, and they all looked like and that was always a big hassle. Or we’d go anyway, boatman’s quarterly review page 29 scramble up through we didn’t do it. Sometimes we’d use a rope to haul up our packs or lower our packs but that was the extent of using ropes. Also, Harvey Butchart was a big part of our hiking club. He didn’t want to be the advisor anymore, but he still would come to all the meetings and tell us what he had been up to. And sometimes we’d be inspired by what he had found out, and vice versa. Like we’d say, “Well, we were over here, and we were looking at this,” and then he’d go there. So he was part of all that too. Williams: So were you mostly hiking down to the river, or were you also doing buttes? Tibbetts: We were climbing some buttes, yeah. Summit of Pollux Temple, 1970. From left, Jim Sears, Ellen Tibbetts, Al Doty, Harvey Butchart, and Bob Packard. Photo: Al Doty Williams: Were there any particularly epic or harrowing…? and then we’d say, “Well, we don’t know where our Tibbetts: I can’t remember too many hikes that I permit is. Maybe it got wet.” (laughter) But that was was on where there was trouble. We had to bivouac the way it was. But yeah, usually it was an idea like, one time while contouring on top of the Redwall. Was “Well, let’s see if we can get down… Instead of going it Vishnu? I think it was, we were coming back to our down the Hermit Trail, let’s see if we can get out packs after climbing it and it got dark. We didn’t want Hermit Canyon.” They’d look at maps and they’d go, to fall off the Redwall, so we built a fire and waited for “Maybe we can get through the Redwall here. Let’s go morning. check it out.” Or, “Well, we know we can get through Another time, on a hike to Blue Springs, Becky, a the Redwall, can we get through the Coconino?” We gal in our group, took a bad fall near the bottom of the were never really interested in climbing with ropes and trail. She fell about fifty feet down a dry waterfall and protection. If we couldn’t just climb a section easily or landed feet first. We were right down at the bottom of the trail so we were able to carry her to a better spot, camp and try to figure things out. Her legs and feet were in bad shape. She had just taken a first aid course, so she was able to coach us on what to do. We splinted and stabilized her legs. George, Bob Dye and a couple others went back out and up the trail that next morning. They had a helicopter in by that afternoon. So that was quite a learning experience. We also did some things that we shouldn’t have done, but we were just lucky to not get in trouble. Jim Sears, Bob Dye and I had hiked down to Hance rapid. We wanted to see the asbestos mine on the other side of the river. We hiked way upstream and blew up our air mattresses. Jim’s air mattress wasn’t holding air well, so he decided not to go across. Bob and I blew up our air mattresses and paddled across above the rapid. It gives me chills now to just think about what we did. We had no idea of the power of the river back then. We didn’t really have time to go to the asbestos mines so we just walked back upstream and paddled back across. We were a little bit wet and cold but fine and lucky that nothing happened.

* * *

Williams: So after the hiking club, when you got out of Climbing Cheop’s Pyramid. Photo: Al Doty nau, where did you go next?

page 30 grand canyon river guides Pearce Ferry take out, 1972. Ken Stevens, Bill Reitfield, Ellen Tibbetts, Susan Varin (Billingsley), Jan Jensen, Ed Anderson, Debra Astel, George Billingsley, Bob Dye. Photo courtesy of Ellen Tibbetts

Tibbetts: Well, it started because of the hiking club. was my first all-the-way-through river trip. George Billingsley started working for Grand Canyon And then in the fall, beginning of my senior year, Expeditions. It was spring break, I think, at nau, and George and Susan Billingsley put together a San Juan George arranged a way for us…He borrowed some trip, and I went on that. They also invited Kenton rafts from gce so a group of us from the hiking club Grua, Reagan Dale was on it, and O’Connor [Dale]. went from Diamond Creek to the lake and took two And so that’s where I met Reagan, Kenton, and weeks. We hiked up a lot of side canyons. Surprise O’Connor. And so after that San Juan trip, Kenton Canyon and many of the canyons down on the lake. drove me back to Flagstaff in his vw bus, and we just Williams: It was probably quieter down there then. ended up staying together from that point on. So Tibbetts: Oh yeah, there was nothin’, there was he stayed with me in Flagstaff while I was finishing nobody. So that was, I think, my very first river trip. school. That winter we did a Christmas river trip in Except before that we had done the San Juan in inner the Canyon. Kenton had a ten-man raft that he had tubes. We [hiking club] wanted to see the anticline gotten from his dad. I mean, the thing was really that was down there along the river. heavy, it was an old World War ii raft, with a blow up Williams: I remember Susan [Billingsley] saying bumper tube around the outside of the boat. Anyway, how much they used to do in inner tubes. Kenton had really spiffed the boat up and built a nice Tibbetts: That would have been like even maybe frame for it. And so Kenton, myself, and Kenton’s a year or two before we went down from Diamond brother Cliff, went down over Christmas, middle of Creek. We were very naive, or whatever you want the winter—by ourselves! to call it. We didn’t have life jackets. So we didn’t Williams: A one-boat trip? know much about river safety, obviously. I mean…I Tibbetts: Yes! I’m not sure how we got permission, remember we sat on an air mattress on top of two it wasn’t a private trip, I don’t think. I don’t remember inner tubes, and then we had a smaller inner tube we being checked out when we left. Maybe he had asked tied our packs to. No life jackets. And we tied the small Martin[Litton]. Martin would call the Park and get inner tube to either our foot or to the bigger inner permission for us to go. But when I think back that we tube that we were sitting in. It was a little nuts! Yeah, so did that trip alone…especially with Kenton being the we were lucky, too—lucky in so many ways; probably only one who knew anything about the river. I was 22, lucky with some of the “climbing” we did, and some of he was 23, Cliff was probably nineteen or twenty. And our route-finding we did hiking in the Canyon. really, Cliff and I were pretty clueless. So anyway, we did that lake trip from Diamond Williams: Passengers. down. And then I think it was the spring of probably Tibbetts: Yeah, we were, we were passengers. The 1973—that would have been maybe my junior year in water was way low I think. We scouted a lot. Horn college—when I went down with George as a swamper. Creek was, I think we did right of the right to left He was working for Grand Canyon Expeditions. So that run—you know, the old ghost run thing. Deubendorf boatman’s quarterly review page 31 was a rock pile. Cliff and I were just, “Oh, this is fun!” When I think back now, Kenton had a lot of guts. He was confident. I don’t know what to say about him— to do that, knowing the risks… Williams: Had he been working for gce prior to that? And then Martin? Tibbetts: He had already had quite a river career. He, I think, started with Hatch when he was eighteen or nineteen maybe. He had worked for Hatch a couple of years, then he had worked for gce for a couple of years. And then he had worked for Martin. When I met him, he had worked for Martin for maybe a year. So, you know, he had a good five years, probably, of Grand Canyon river running experience, and he did know the canyon, and he knew the runs, and he knew the rapids. But still, going alone! I know over the years lots of people have done solo trips, but I still think its a pretty adventurous thing to do. Williams: In the middle of the winter! Tibbetts: In the middle of the winter! And it was 1974. Photo: Rudi Petschek cold. And we didn’t have all that fancy, you know, polypropylene, capeline or anything. Rain gear were and Reagan and Steve Sharp, who was Kenton’s good rubber suits we got at Yellow Front or somewhere. We friend from Vernal, Utah. I did quite a bit of rowing on had wool sweaters and I think we might have had—I that trip. Kenton was letting me row lots of stuff and don’t even know if we had wet suit booties. It was a coaching me. And then after that spring training trip, I long trip, too. We did have a lot of saunas, I remember left Flagstaff. I graduated— left Flagstaff with Kenton, that. Kenton—you know how he’d get so wound up took all my stuff, and we drove up to Hurricane, Utah. about stuff—he would just build this giant fire and… We arrived in the morning, and I met all these river how did we used to do it? Oh yeah, put rocks in the people, all these amazing women who were cooks: fire, they’d get hotter than hell. Then you put the rocks Sabina [Gnittke], Kenly I already knew, Jane [Whalen], in a metal bucket. While the rocks are getting hot in Carol Starling. And they were just the best gals. They the fire, you’re building a tent with a tarp—and then were so warm and welcoming. It just felt real good. you dig a hole inside the tent. Fill the metal bucket up And the boathouse, and everybody living in their van with hot rocks and put the hot rocks in the bucket in or an apartment upstairs, it was a little community. the hole. Then you go sit in the tent and you sprinkle Mrs. Lee lived next door. She had this amazing a little bit of water on the hot rocks. And it would be vegetable garden in the back. There were fruit trees, instant sauna! Hot and humid. That was the only way pecan trees, Hurricane was a paradise. So that summer we could take a bath. I mean, it was so cold. And so the idea was that I would be in Hurricane while yeah, we got really hot, and then we’d go in the river, Kenton did a full season on the river. But, Martin rinse off. I especially remember doing it at Stone Creek made it possible for me to go on some trips—you on that huge beach below Duebendorf. And we didn’t know, like he did for so many people. He enjoyed that. see anybody else either. Back then there just were I was able to go along on a few trips that summer as a not trips on the water during the winter. There was cooks’ assistant. nobody. And that’s why it was neat. Back in those days we would do a training trip or Williams: At the same time, if you’d gotten in two in the winter, and the whole idea was dories are trouble, nobody’s gonna come by for months. harder to row because you can’t hit anything, we need Tibbetts: No. No, we’d have been in big trouble to practice and know the runs at all water levels, so being alone. we need to train. Getting a dory through the Canyon And then we did another training trip in the without hitting or flipping was not always easy, so spring. I think I had my senior show in April, and we training and being warmed up for the season felt like did this next training trip in May—something like a good idea. We didn’t take dories on the training that—and that’s where I first met Kenly [Weills]. That trips, we took our little rafts. I know Reagan had a would have been the spring of ’74, and it was Kenton seven-man; Kenton had his ten-man. I think Bego

page 32 grand canyon river guides [George Gerhart] and Ote [Dale] had a seven-man left!” We did get into some trouble just because we and a Yampa. And we’d spend a lot of time just making weren’t communicating completely. And finally I the boat frames fit and look beautiful. Rowing dories figured out that I had to have my own boat and make influenced the way we outfitted our rafts. Everything my own mistakes. I had enough experience by then painted, oars, oarlocks set up perfectly, we had a that I really did know where to go, I just needed more lot of pride in our little rafts. We all were kind of in confidence. Kenton taught me so much about rowing; couples or groups, and we’d all bring our own food how to use the current, angles, everything to the best and our own fire pan, like a garbage can lid. And we’d advantage. And it was pretty important being a small still camp together, and we’d just pool our resources person. So we started doing training trips together, but sometimes, or sometimes we wouldn’t. It wouldn’t I would have my own boat. And then, somewhere in really matter. I remember doing one training trip the late ’70s, on commercial trips we started carrying where I think all we ate was granola and grilled cheese the human waste out. So with the new rule of having sandwiches. Trips back then seemed a lot simpler. You to carry everything out, we had to have a raft, or know, we didn’t have coolers. So every year we would baggage boat, along on every trip. And so Kenton do a couple of these training trips and of course the had this brilliant idea—I think it was mostly his other companies were going, “What?!” idea—about how I could go on all the trips. I would Williams: “Why do they need to train so much?!” get my own raft and just row it as the baggage boat all Tibbetts: Yeah. I mean, after a couple of years of summer long. this, they were like, “Wait a minute.” And I remember Williams: Were you cooking at the same time, or even private trips were complaining, going, “What not really? do you mean? These commercial guides get to do Tibbetts: Maybe I cooked and rowed at the same whatever they want, whenever they want? That ain’t right!” But it took a couple years for that to sort of start… Williams: For them to catch on! Tibbetts: For the river community to kind of go, you know… Williams: “Aren’t they trained by now?!” Tibbetts: It went along with our kind of dory elitist reputation. And I was thinking, “Well, yeah, they’re right, you know. But still, we need to be familiar with this low water because our boats are different.” You know? So then the training trips morphed into “clean up” trips. Helping to clean up beaches. Before we used fire pans and eventually gas for cooking, in the early ’70s everyone used a common fire pit. So there were these huge areas of old charcoal fire pits. So we’d spend a few days at some of these camps and really clean things up. But we also trained and managed to have some serious adventures. What else was I saying? Oh yeah, so it was with these training trips that I got more and more experience rowing. I mean, I liked to row, and Kenton was really, “Okay, you row everything.” He set up the frame so it would fit me, he set everything up so that I could have the very best advantage and leverage. But he really, I could say encouraged me, but he also kind of really pushed. I was pretty apprehensive. You know, I wanted to, but I was a little bit scared about it. But then every time I would have a successful run, I’d go, “Well, you know, maybe I can do this.” So we did a lot of training together—he, being behind me, going, “No! Not there! Pull! Pull hard! Right…I mean 1980. Photo: John Blaustein boatman’s quarterly review page 33 time a couple of times but I think once I made the Sue Bassett was rowing for Wilderness World, Susan change to rowing the baggage boat on Grand Canyon Billingsley was motoring for gce…There just hadn’t trips that’s all I wanted to do. been officially a woman rowing dories in the Grand Williams: Okay. Canyon, except for all the times the cooks had filled in Tibbetts: So it probably would have been ’78 or for an injured boatman or some other thing that came something. And I also rowed up on the Green River up. So it wasn’t like it was an overnight thing—but it for a couple seasons. And up there I rowed dories. was bound to happen and it was just that I was at the Williams: Oh, did Martin have a permit up there? right place at the right time, and as ready as I would Tibbetts: Yeah. ever be. And so that’s kind of how it happened. Williams: Okay, so you were doing both—the raft Williams: And then how soon did Kenly get a boat in Grand Canyon and dories up on the Green? after you? Was it the next season? Tibbetts: Yeah, at the same time. I would have Tibbetts: Yes, I think it was myself, and then Lori rowed dories on the Green in ’76 and ’77, but the Long [Cooper], and then Kenly, and then there were season was short. I think we did about four trips in others…Fritz…Fritz was in there too. Yeah, Kenly was June. Then we would go back down to Hurricane and shortly after me. do trips the rest of the season in the Canyon. Probably The question I think everybody had was, you around ’78 was when I started rowing the baggage know, dories are different, they tip over easier, you boat on commercial trips in the canyon all the time can’t hit a rock with ’em. Rafts are generally more and that’s when Kenton and I stopped doing the forgiving. And, could a smaller person—a woman— Green. And so around that time I bought a sixteen- handle it. Rowing dories on the Green river was foot Maravia. And Kenton built this really cool frame. one thing, Idaho rivers also, but Grand Canyon? I He went over to Dean Waterman’s and they bent this didn’t know, I wondered. But so many people were aluminum tubing and made it fit perfectly over the ready for it. Like I said, the cooks had been filling in sides and into the boat with the floor attached. The for boatmen for years. So it just meant that taking thwarts were taken out and the frame, because of the that final step for a woman to row an entire trip way it fit so well inside, kept the boat more rigid and commercially, it was like…It was like opening up less bendable. The frame carried five or six rocket Pandora’s box or something. And so I just happened boxes in front, and five or six in the back. It was to be in the right place at the right time. perfect for carrying the poop out. And the floor being So it was the spring, 1980, they needed a boatman, attached wasn’t just hanging from the frame, like raft like in two days. I think a couple of passengers had frames used to be. been added to the trip at the last minute. I ended Williams: It was part of the frame. up rowing the Music Temple, which had always been Tibbetts: Yeah, it was part of the frame. And so Mike Davis’s boat, but he ended up rowing the Mille you could stand up on something solid, rather than a Crag Bend that summer so it all worked out okay. hanging, floating floor. And I think it was Tuck [Weills] that said, “How Williams: Wow. So then at what point did you about it?” find yourself rowing your first commercial [Grand Williams: Tuck was the manager then? Canyon] trip? Tibbetts: Yeah, and by then maybe Jane was Tibbetts: It was sort of building up steam, you know, managing at that time too. And so that’s what started like we’ve talked about before. Curt Chang, (Northwest it. It was probably good that it happened so fast so Dories manager) in Idaho, already had women rowing I couldn’t worry too long and I couldn’t change my dories up there. Curt liked having women on the crew, mind. Kenton, of course, was on that trip. I had really he said he thought it sort of mellowed out the guys, good support, and the boatmen, I think really wanted balanced the crew and made for a better trip. And don’t me to succeed. They kept me in the pack. I’m sure I get me wrong, Martin also wanted women on the crew, followed about two feet behind Kenton. They probably that’s why he liked having cooks. But I don’t think it lightened my load. They were always so supportive. I ever occurred to him that women might one day row don’t think the dory boatmen ever felt threatened, like dories in the Grand Canyon. maybe at all, about women rowing. Williams: And you were rowing on the Green. Williams: Yeah. I never got that impression either. Tibbetts: And I had been rowing dories on the Tibbetts: Yeah. And so I think that summer I rowed Green. Azra I think was still arta back then, but four trips maybe—at least four trips, and I rowed ’em they had women rowing. Liz Hymans was rowing all in the Music Temple. I did flip twice that summer. I for oars. Ote had done some trips with Moki Mack. flipped in Hermit and Crystal—not in the same trip.

page 34 grand canyon river guides But I was able to deal with that, and get that out of the of women reminding me that…talking in terms way. So that was the beginning of my rowing dories in of the women’s movement, you have to go back in the Canyon commercially. history and think about all the women—not just river Williams: And then how many years did you do running women—but women that fought for equality. that? When was your last? And it was kind of something for me to remember Tibbetts: My last river trip was ’94. That was with that, yeah, we’re all just sort of taking the next little you on that all-women’s trip. You ran the paddleboat, baby step, and all these other people have stepped up is that right? before us. And so it’s like going on the shoulders of the Williams: Oh yeah! I remember! previous [women]. Williams: Yeah, exactly. * * * Tibbetts: It just never really occurred to me. I didn’t think that way. I didn’t think of myself as… Tibbetts: One thing I remember which was interesting Williams: As part of that. was some of the reactions our passengers’ had to Tibbetts: Well, I didn’t like the term “women’s women rowing—particularly me. I know there were liberation.” I didn’t like the term of the “women’s two different kinds of people…they either did not movement,” even though it was kind of what we were want to ride with me, or they really wanted to ride doing. I didn’t like that idea that we were out there with me. And the people that really wanted to ride fighting or something, because we weren’t. Doors were with me were usually women—some of ’em—though opening. But the only reason those doors were opening some of ’em didn’t think it looked right, and didn’t was because of the women before us. And it’s true. want to ride with me; and then men who wanted I realized I would never be doing what I was doing to have what they thought was a fun ride, because without the women before me that paved the way. they were sure I was gonna screw up, and that I’d go Anyway, and then the other thing was I think men through some big hole or wave and they’d have a big passengers, I think they had a harder time, a little ride. And then as usually happened, the days went by, bit, with the women boatmen. I think they felt sort and people would come to me and say, “Well, I really of weird that this small woman was running them didn’t think you could do it, but I’d like to ride with around in a big boat through these big rapids and you,” or whatever. And then there were the people that stuff. And I understand it, because normally men did thought I was some kind of magician because I was that, not women. small and I could still make the runs and they thought I remember rowing the baggage boat with two there was some weird magic I must have had. So guys riding with me, and they were really nice guys— then they really wanted to ride with me, because they definitely bigger than me and stronger than me thought they would be safe and I wouldn’t ever make and stuff. And I remember it was myself and Wren a mistake. And that was another problem, because I knew full well that at any moment we could be upside down, or smashing into the wall, or hit a rock or somethin’. I felt all eyes were on me (us) because we were women, and you really felt that you just could not afford to make a mistake, because everyone would think it’s because you are a woman, so I didn’t want to lose people’s confidence. I don’t know if women feel that way now. I mean, that would be something I would wonder about, is whether the women that are rowing these days, if they feel that pressure—but I know I did. Oh, I remember another couple of things. I remember some passengers saying to me, “You’re really doing a lot for the women’s movement. You must be a women’s libber. You must be doing this for the women’s movement.” And I remember telling them, “I didn’t do anything. I’ve had all this support. The men on the crews support me, management supports me. It hasn’t been me at all.” And then I remember a couple 1981. Photo: Rudi Petschek boatman’s quarterly review page 35 Hermit. Photo: Unknown and somebody else, and it was a really low water tons of ground just if you missed one stroke. They spring trip. We were in the slow water right above didn’t understand that it wasn’t merely strength, but Nankoweap Rapid, and the wind was so bad that we more importantly it was technique. I just had to say just couldn’t get to the rapid. We were getting blown “You know, thanks, but I’m doin’ okay.” Because I was, around so much that we just—all we had to do was I was fine. It’s just what rowing in the wind is like. get to the top of the rapid, where there was more But they hated to see me work hard, I guess. And then downstream current and we could stop pulling for a finally I was able to pull out, catch the current and go minute. So we were pulling into the wind, through down. But I just remember it was really painful for the white caps, making very little progress, and these them to just sit there and watch me. Whereas if I’d gusts would come up. I remember the three of us, and been a guy, they probably wouldn’t have cared. Well, our boatloads of people, just getting blown sideways they certainly wouldn’t have offered, and they would into an eddy right above the rapid. And then when have thought, “Well, I can’t do any better than that.” the wind stopped or let up for just a minute, we all I remember there was a German guy who had kind of, at the same time, would make a break for it, done several trips along with his friends with us, just trying to get back into the current. The three of named Wolfgang. He liked riding up front and getting us would pull out…and I remember the first boat—I a big ride. I think we were camped above the gorge don’t know, it wasn’t Wren, but somebody else—and and whoever the trip leader was, was explaining he was able to stroke, stroke, stroke, stroke, and all of how tomorrow was a big day, pay attention, and so a sudden he made it to the top of Nankoweap Rapid, on because the rapids would be bigger and more into the faster downstream current, and he’s gone. The challenging than anything we’d seen yet. And I other two of us [Wren and I] got blasted back into the remember Wolfgang chuckling and saying (in a heavy eddy. So again, when the wind let up, we make a break German accent), “How could the rapids or this river for it, just trying to pull back out in the current. And be dangerous if they let a little girl row the boat?” At then Wren gets out there, and gets to the top of the first I thought he was kidding, but he wasn’t! That rapid, and Wren goes on down, but I don’t quite make made me feel sad because I felt like my rowing the it and get blown back into the eddy all by myself with boat was diminishing the adventure and experience these guys. I remember them saying, “Why don’t you for him and maybe others. just let me give it a try?” And I just knew that I could And then another time, I remember one of the not do that, not because…I knew they were stronger things over the years I really liked doing was smashing than me, I knew they were bigger than me, but I knew trash, and I was good at it, too. We could get all of they couldn’t row, and I knew they didn’t know what the trash—glass, plastic, tin cans, everything into an eddy was, and they didn’t know what current was. one or two #10 cans. And condense it so completely They’d miss a stroke, and we’d lose tons of time and that it was a beautiful thing. I could make these

page 36 grand canyon river guides Hermit . Photo: Rudi Petschek garbage cubes that I really think were almost as good 70,000. At Havasu it went up to 90,000. I really have to as Kenton’s and Rudy’s, because I watched them and give credit to Reagan who led a very good trip. Every learned from them. You could get so much in that #10 day we didn’t know what was gonna happen. And he can, and you could always get a little more in there. explained that to the passengers, who were great. He And then you’d hammer the edges down and it’d just was really clear about how this was uncharted territory be this really heavy garbage cube, it’d be perfect. And for us. I mean, we had our flip lines on every day. The I remember doing it one morning, and these older boils, the eddy lines, just pulling in was epic. You had men, or this one man in particular—just watching to pull in way above rapids to scout. And pulling in, me and he said, “You know, it just hurts me to see sometimes there just weren’t any eddies. You know, you do that.” And I was surprised but I think what he you were kind of speeding through the tops of the meant was, maybe it wasn’t ladylike, or maybe it…He tamarisk trees, trying to get to shore somewhere. The couldn’t see how I would want to do that. I think it whole character of the river was different. And it was, again, feeling like men do this thing, and women was hard to help each other, too, because if we were do that thing, and so I sort of felt—you know, I just too close, we could get boiled together and hit each felt sort of bad, that it was like bursting his bubble. other. And if you left enough space between each I was infringing on his territory or doing something other, within minutes you couldn’t even see the other I shouldn’t be doing. And so I could see how that boat. So it was really every man for himself, or every could happen, that women, for a lot of men it was boatload for themselves. You really had to realize that threatening that… You know, we didn’t want to be in a lot of ways you’re on your own. But everyone was men, and we didn’t want to be just like men. We just also looking out for each other. wanted to… Williams: What was it like [on June 23rd] when you Williams: Wanted to do the fun stuff. got to Crystal, ’cuz it was at 70,000? I mean, how did Tibbetts: We wanted to do the fun stuff. Right. Exactly. you decide how to run, or did you run empty? Williams: Like making the ultimate garbage cube. Tibbetts: I think we ran empty. And you just got as Tibbetts: Exactly! close to shore as you could, which meant running over and close to submerged tamarisk trees. One tamarisk * * * tree top was a good marker. And you just had to come in early…I mean it wasn’t a difficult run, I don’t Williams: So what about 1983? remember it being difficult. It was just fast, and there Tibbetts: I’m so glad I was there to experience that was a lot of space but you wanted to be in there, you high water. I doubt it will ever happen again. It was know. But the hole was horrendous. It was just like pretty intense. The ’83 high water trip I was on, we the biggest hole you’ve ever seen. The hole went two- left the Ferry at 60,000 [cfs]. At Granite it went up to thirds of the way across the river—it was just a wall of boatman’s quarterly review page 37 1983. Photo: Rudi Petschek 1984. Photo: Rudi Petschek 1987 . Photo: Rudi Petschek water from the left side of the river. It was big, so big. Williams: On the right? But it wasn’t a technical run, you just had to power in Tibbetts: On the right, yeah. And so that was good, and get as close to shore as you could without hitting because they were there. By then I think they had any rocks or trees. accounted for everybody, but our trip helped radio Williams: I remember hearing about trying to pull for help… [Editors note: Camped the next evening at in at Bass [at 70,000 cfs]. Didn’t you have a… Mile 136, on June 25th, the trip watched as a stream of Tibbetts: Yeah, everybody made the pull-in that day, random river trip flotsam drifted by; life vests, ammo except me. I made it into the eddy below. Mike Taggett cans and other gear, followed later by a lone, empty, unloaded his people, and then he came down in his upside down Tour West motor-rig.] boat, just to give me some support. And what we did Tibbetts: And then Kenton, Wren, and Rudi came was—because I still had all my passengers—we [the by on their speed trip. whole crew that had made the pull-in] lined my boat Williams: And did you know that they had that back along the shore in sort of this ripping current, planned? as far as we could, so that we could unload my folks. Tibbetts: Yeah, we knew they were gonna pass us Anyway, I got all my food out that we needed for somewhere. Wren had a big wound on his head that camp, and then I floated back down to where the eddy was taped up, the boat was damaged, they were in was, and Mike and I tied our boats off so they were pretty low spirits. But they were rowin’ hard, and that not gonna be bangin’ into the shore or anything. And was somewhere above Kanab Creek. [June 26] All I then we had to climb out of this little eddy. And it was remember them saying was, “We flipped in Crystal.” kind of an exposed climb, and Tom Rambo was up Yeah, so they passed us. there, belaying us. (laughter) And then the next day, There were places that were more difficult. A lot [June 24th] in the morning, when we were getting of stuff was washed out. House Rock was like a riffle. ready to leave, that was when we saw an upside-down Horn Creek was like, “Where’s Horn Creek?” Hance motorboat float by with people on the bottom. But you could go right down the middle. But it was also… we couldn’t get out fast enough to help right away. We you’d scout it and you’d think ‘Oh, there’s nothing were almost out, but couldn’t really help ’em, and they here.” And then you’d get out there, and even though were holding up “Need Help” cushions and stuff. from shore it sort of looked like nothing was there, it Williams: So people were on top of the upside- still had this power that was really kind of mystical. down… You knew even though you didn’t see anything, like Tibbetts: Yeah. And they were saying stuff like, “We any rocks, or waves, or holes, that might flip you, don’t know where everybody is.” So after this upside- you just had the feel out there that it was so fast, down boat went by—I think Reagan, Mike Davis, that anything could happen. And if it wasn’t always those guys, got out as soon as they could and chased in the rapid, it could be at the bottom, on the eddy after it, but what it did was, it went around the corner line, or in the tail waves ’cuz they’d just come out and broached at 110-Mile on that corner. of nowhere. You’d be on an eddy line and some big

page 38 grand canyon river guides 1987 . Photo: Rudi Petschek Regan Dale & Ellen Tibbetts, 1988. Photo: Dugald Bremner Kenly Weills & Ellen Tibbetts, 1987. Photo: Dugald Bremner Cline Library NAU.PH.2018.34.1.144.206 Cline Library NAU.PH.2018.34.1.144.286

thing would suck you down or shoot you up in the air * * * or spin you around. So probably one of the trickiest spots was the Narrows above Deer Creek. That Williams: Did you get your master’s degree? Is that was just such a surprise. Even being prepared, you what you came back to school for? couldn’t be prepared for how bizarre it was in there. Tibbetts: Yeah. I went back in the fall of ’84 and It was just a bunch of water that didn’t know where did a two-year program to get a master’s degree in to go. Slamming into the walls. Also, the water was ceramics. And I really had this idea that I wanted to inconsistent. Like if you saw it doing something and pursue more of an art career, and go from getting the you set up for it, all of a sudden it would stop. I don’t master’s degree, and then I would go somewhere and really remember much about the Jewels… get an mfa. But I didn’t do that. I finished my master’s Williams: Bedrock? degree and went back to running the river. So I got my Tibbetts: I don’t even remember Bedrock. I mean, master’s degree in ’86, and I ended up continuing until everything in its own way was kind of hairball, and ’94, doing trips. we had our flip lines on every day, and you were just Williams: And then is that when you started on it, every minute ’cuz the shore was just, boom, teaching? boom, going by. You were out there and instead of Tibbetts: Yeah. Then I started teaching at nau. feeling like a river it felt like you were on an ocean of Again, just this opportunity, right place at the right moving water. You know, the shore was really far away! time. I think for several years towards the end of (laughter) And we were going really fast! And yeah, river running, I really was kind of looking for a way you’d pull out and it was like “Bye.” You could pull out, to make a transition but I just didn’t know how to two seconds after someone else, and you never see ’em. make that happen. I loved being down there. I think We ran Lava at 92,000. We scouted it from the left what’s so addicting about being there is running with and, of course, again it was just a huge big wide river. a group of people that you knew so well, and being The rapid went all the way down to Lower Lava. There there, and being in the best shape of your life. It’s so was no calm stretch in between, it just fed right into addicting, and it’s fun. But I also, just the pressure Lower Lava. And again, it wasn’t anything technical. It of keeping people safe, and the responsibility of the was just fast and big. Everything was big. rapids, the big water, making a mistake… It was a lot And the water stayed high for the next two or of responsibility to be down there, I felt. So that was three seasons. I think the next summer it was 40,000 kind of getting to me. And so again, I visited nau a or 45,000 cfs consistently, and the summer after that, lot, the ceramics program, I knew people there. Don maybe even two summers, it was a solid 28,000 for the Bendel was still there. I had moved back to Flagstaff whole summer. Twenty-eight thousand was a pretty from Hurricane. And Paula Rice, who also taught good stage except for Crystal. Lava was a steady left ceramics at nau, asked me if I would ever be interested run—-the old high water left run. We got pretty used in teaching in the summer. And I kind of right away to the high water.

boatman’s quarterly review page 39 said, “No, no.” And then I thought about it, and I think my ceramics friend said, “You know, I’d give my right arm to teach a summer class at nau.” And I thought, “Huh, maybe I should think this over.” And sure enough, I went, “Maybe I should give this a go.” And I really think that over the years of river running I had gained confidence and learned a little bit about how to be with people, and how to pretend when you’re really nervous that everything’s okay. And I think that was what I needed for teaching too. I didn’t know how I was going to be the one standing up in front of all these people. But I think with my experience, being on the river with people I didn’t know, and people that you were kind of leading, it gave me the courage to give teaching a try. Williams: And did you ever go back for another trip? Tibbetts: Nope. Williams: Made a clean break? Tibbetts: Yeah, in ’94. That was sort of the end of my commercial river running career because then I stepped right into something to do in the summer which I really wanted to do—to get involved in art and ceramics again. Teaching a summer class is always a little more laid back and so I taught at nau that summer and then that led to other opportunities…they needed someone in the winter, then they needed a drawing instructor in the spring, and so you know I just really had to hunker down and think about teaching, and how to do it, and 1988. Photo: Dugald Bremner, Cline Library NAU.PH.2018.34.1.144.221 how I wanted to do it. But one thing led to another, and then I ended up teaching part time at the [Coconino] Community College (ccc) too, only they didn’t have a place to do ceramics so we taught the Community College classes at nau. And then in 2001–2002 they built the new campus and Alan Peterson, who was art department chair, wanted to make sure they had a ceramics department and that eventually led to a full time position at Coconino Community College. So that was great. So I taught full time at the Community College for three years.

* * *

Tibbetts: In the fall of 2004 I was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. Yeah, which was quite a shock. Williams: Yeah, no doubt. Tibbetts: I really couldn’t remember having a lot of symptoms, but thinking back, after I was diagnosed, I did have a feeling on my right side that something wasn’t quite right and that maybe I had a pulled muscle over on my right, sort of my lower back. I had been active all summer, and done a lot of hiking, helped out with some workshops at ccc, and nothing seemed off except for this feeling of a pulled muscle, the odd thing 1988. Photo: Rudi Petschek

page 40 grand canyon river guides Cover illustration for The Hibernacle News,1992.

They’re Living on Nuts and Berries, 2014,14”x 11”x 7” being that I couldn’t remember when I had done it. So one test led to another, and then I suddenly had this big problem, which was terrifying, I really didn’t know The Perfect Storm, 2014, 22”x 11”x 7” what to do, it was just such new territory. I really didn’t know how to cope. I didn’t want to tell anyone. I even I followed up with all the rest of my chemos here in hesitated telling my family, until my Mom figured it Flagstaff. I had to do chemotherapy every three weeks, out. I think I felt that telling people would make it more for a total of eight rounds. In the meantime things real, you know, I just couldn’t believe it was true. The happened like my water tank got crushed because I Community College was great. I had good insurance didn’t pay attention and keep it full. (laughter) And I and with “Family Medical Leave” I was able to take time think Chris [McIntosh] and Les [Hutchison] helped off and not lose my job. Without that I just don’t know dig it out. A lot of people helped me. Dan Dierker and what people do. Paul Zeller helped me put a new water tank in. And, So I was sent from Flagstaff to have surgery in finally I was letting go of just not knowing how to tell Scottsdale, with a gynecological oncologist. And then people. Elena [Kirschner] helped me when I wound up he did my first chemotherapy before I was even out of back in the hospital. Walt Taylor helped me manage and the hospital and sent me back up to Flagstaff. By then navigate the medical scene. Ruthie Stoner brought me I wasn’t just sort of terrified, I was also really pissed. the book It’s Not About the Bike by Lance Armstrong. (laughter) I mean, I think it was a combination of Of course, that was before everyone figured out he was being really scared and also kind of angry that this had cheating. (laughter) But still, that book really helped happened to me. me. It helped me a lot to read about people who had

Left: “Lees Ferry” from The Hibernacle News, early 1980s page 43 Wild Thing, 2013, 12”x 10”x 2” Old Friend, 2013, 12”x 10”x 2” God Makes the Horse, 2013, 12”x 10”x 2”

survived cancer. I joined a support group, and I realized down to zero they give you your baby stem cells back, I just wasn’t so alone. And that it wasn’t personal. through iv. Then you wait for engraftment. The baby Getting cancer isn’t personal. It’s not your fault, and it stem cells find their way from your veins to your bone can happen to anybody. It doesn’t matter who you are. marrow. Engraftment in the bone marrow happens So I got through the standard chemotherapy regime. after ten days or two weeks and your white count I was in a clinical remission but still looking around recovers. When the white count is up pretty good you for other ideas because I knew my prognosis was not get to leave the hospital, go to your apartment and try so good. With late stage ovarian cancer, even though to feel better with check ups almost every day. you can get into remission pretty easily with chemo, 2005 was the summer that Hurricane Katrina it’s likely to come back. So that’s what led me on to md slammed New Orleans, and then a couple months Anderson Cancer Center in Houston, to do a clinical later Hurricane Rita was headed straight for Houston. trial for ovarian cancer. The trial was an autologous I remember sitting in a waiting room, with my brother stem cell transplant with high dose chemotherapy. So and other patients, waiting for chemo, a test, or I went there and I said “Sign me up. I’ll do whatever.” something, and watching the news on tv. They had I had done a second look surgery that indicated the the fox tv channel on in all the waiting areas. It kept cancer would come back, so I figured what have I got to showing over and over again this swirling counter lose? And there again, my insurance was so good, they clockwise storm headed straight for Houston. Over paid for a lot of the transplant. There had been a lot and over…And here we were, all of us poor cancer of success with stem cell transplants for leukemia and patients sitting there in the waiting room, staring at lymphoma, but it was just starting to be tried in clinical trials with solid tumor cancers, like breast cancer and ovarian cancer, so it was pretty experimental. The way it is supposed to work is that the stem cell transplant creates a new immune system that will recognize the cancer and keep it from coming back. The stem cell transplant was a long ordeal. I went there knowing I would have to stay in Houston for at least two months. One month in the hospital and thirty days in an apartment for recovery after the transplant. The process starts with chemo, then getting Neupogen® shots to create baby stem cells, then harvesting the baby stem cells through an iv process and freezing them. Then into the hospital for high dose chemo, which makes you really sick, then when your white count is Day of the transplant with brother Steve’s stem cells, April 16, 2009.

page 44 grand canyon river guides the tv, and thinking, Oh god, I have cancer and now a Tibbetts: And I did do a private trip in 2015, with hurricane? [But that’s a whole other story!] Tom [Brownold] and Mimi [Murov] and that was a By the fall of 2005, I finally went home, I was in real small, nice little private trip. And it was great. To go remission, and everything seemed pretty good. I went back after how many years… like 21 years. And it was back to teaching the spring of 2006, and then I taught nice to get back on the river and see that everything all the way ’til the fall of 2008, when I had a recurrence was much the same. It felt like yesterday. The runs were —cancer came back. just as I remembered. It’s amazing how all that stuff is I did finish up that fall semester, even though I kind of etched in your brain. You know, beaches are a had started chemo again. I had stayed in touch with little different, a little more arrowweed, just as much md Anderson since the transplant mainly because I wind. (laughter) We had a pretty variable-weather trip had follow up appointments every four months, and because it was April, but it was really fun to get down they said, “Well we have this other clinical trial. After there again. I remember saying to Mimi, I feel the most you’re done with your chemo, if you get back into like myself when I’m there, or when I’m hiking, or remission, we have this other trial you can try.” It was something like that—I feel most like who I am. another stem cell transplant clinical trial, only instead of a transplant with my own stem cells it would be with a matched donor, called an allogeneic stem cell transplant. And that’s a long story too. But anyway, to make a long story short, it turned out that my brother, Steve, was a perfect match. And he was really excited, and happy to be a donor. So I went through the whole thing again, only with his stem cells. And he was the one that did the Neupogen® shots, and had his stem cells taken out and frozen. And in the meantime I got the high dose killer chemo again, and then I got his stem cells. Anyway, that was a long ordeal. I had to stay in Houston for four months the second time. We got through it and for both transplants I had to have a caregiver with me during the weeks of my recovery in Houston. Of course, my family traded off Alida Dierker, Elena Kirscher and Ellen on Humphrey’s Peak, 2017. coming, and so many friends came and helped me get through those transplants. Finally I got home, for the second time, and that was around the end of July of 2009. Follow up was again a series of checkups and scans every four months, for three years. With such an uncertain future, I decided to retire from my teaching job. And time went by, years have gone by, and I’m still here. Check ups now are every six months. They still make me pretty nervous, but it hasn’t come back— knock on wood—and since my last transplant with my brother’s stem cells, it’s been ten years. So that’s pretty good. So I’m a very, very lucky person.

* * *

Tibbetts: That was sort of like my third career. I think my first career was river running, my second career was teaching art, and my third career was dealing with cancer. Williams: Yep. Tibbetts: And now I’m doing whatever… Williams: That’s your fourth career. (laughter) Hopefully that will be a long one. On a private trip in Grand Canyon, 2015. Photo: Tom Brownold boatman’s quarterly review page 45 News from the Whale Foundation

ello boaters! This is Sam Jansen, writing to as many as in 2018. Due to generous support from you from the desk of the Executive Director the Grand Canyon community, we were also able to Hat the Whale Foundation. There’s some good increase our number of scholarships this year to five stuff to tell you about. awards of $2000 each. We wish great success for all our John Napier has moved to Germany to pursue new applicants, and want to congratulate our five winners: adventures with his family. I hope you’ll join me in Jed Gantert, Lena Lander, Mark Gober, Sean Pope, and wishing him well and congratulate him on all the great Tess McEnroe. work he did for the foundation during the last four Our counselling services are expanding this year, years. I reckon we’ll see him in the canyon again before too. We’ve been able to add a financial advisor to too long. the mix. If you’d like to start plotting a course to I’m very excited to be at the oars. Over the years, retirement or getting a handle on any other money the Whale Foundation has become an increasingly issues, you can set up a free appointment through central part of the Grand Canyon river community, our helpline. We’re also working on getting a sharp with amazing and generous support, and programs real estate agent on board who can help with good that matter in guides’ lives. I’m looking forward to advice—and maybe reduced costs—when it’s time to keeping the boat in the current, and maybe trying a make the leap to home ownership. few new things to help fulfill the foundation’s mission: Check out our website (www.whalefoundation.org) supporting health and wellness for the Grand Canyon to get the latest on what we have to offer, or to reach river guiding community. out if you’d like to be involved. And, as always, the Here’s some of the latest news: helpline is there for you: 1-877-44whale. Every year, in honor Kenton Grua’s lifelong drive Just as a great crew can lift a river trip up to the to learn and grow as a person, the Whale Foundation next level, a great community can help take life up a awards scholarships in his name. Our goal is to notch. Thank you for being part of it. support guides as they work to further their education. Fourteen people applied this year—almost twice Sam Jansen

A Final Note of Farewell and Support

am pleased to leave the directorship of the Whale with another, this is Curtis “Whale” Hansen’s legacy, Foundation in the very capable hands of Sam this growing family of support. I would implore you I Jansen. He’s been a guide for three decades and a to seek out more ways to contribute to our mission, to leader throughout that time. Sam is thoughtful and reach others who would benefit from our services. heartfelt, and I instantly recognized the gifts he’ll bring We are a small tribe in a small corner of the world. to this organization and its mission. Like watching a The challenges of our guiding lifestyle are unique, new line in familiar whitewater, I can’t wait to see what exacerbated by the confined geography we live in. But Sam’s know-how lends to the Whale Foundation and in this narrow space, we have each other. There is no where he will take it. All forward, no doubt. better resource of support than the crew we’re with. Be On a personal note, it has been an incredible honor a part of that support. to participate in the work of the Whale Foundation. Joy, shipmates! Joy! All the thanks in the world goes to the visionary founders who had the insight to build such a unique John Napier network of support. And to our board and committee members who personify our unofficial byline of P.S. In case you want to connect: “guides supporting guides,” thank you for your time Heimat 63B 14165 and intention. Berlin, Germany And finally, to every guide who has participated in [email protected] our programs of assistance and shared their experience page 46 grand canyon river guides Businesses Offering Support

Thanks to the businesses that like to show their support for gcrg by offering varying discounts to members…

Apex Brewing Supply—Brewing Equipment 916/918-9058 Marble Canyon Lodge–928/355-2225 Artisan Metal Works–Custom Fabrication 928/773-4959 Marble Canyon Metal Works–928/355-2253 Aspen Sports–Outdoor gear 928/779-1935 Mark Allen Productions–Film & Video 801/709-1676 Blue Sky Woodcraft–Dories and repairs 970/963-0463 Dr. Mark Falcon–Chiropractor 928/779-2742 Bright Angel Bicycles & Cafe at Mather Pt.–928/814-8704 Moenkopi Riverworks–boat rentals & gear 928/526-6622 Canyon Arts–Canyon art by David Haskell 928/567-9873 Mom’s Stuff Salve–435/462-2708 Canyon Books–Canyon & River books 928/779-0105 Mountain Angels Trading Co.–Jewelry 800/808-9787 Canyon R.E.O.–River equipment rental 928/774-3377 Mountain Sports–928/226-2885 CC Lockwood–Photography books 225/769-4766 Neighborhood Acupuncture, PLLC–206/782-5662 Ceiba Adventures–Equipment & boat rentals 928/527-0171 Patrick Conley–Realtor 928/779-4596 Cliff Dwellers Lodge, az–928/355-2228 Plateau Restoration–Conservation Adventures 435/259- Design and Sales Publishing Company–520/774-2147 7733 Down By The River Productions/FaheyFoto–928/226-7131 Professional River Outfitters–Rental boats & gear 928/779- Entrance Mountain Natural Health–360/376-5454 1512 EPF Classic & European Motorcycles–928/778-7910 Randy Rohrig–Rocky Point Casitas rentals 928/522-9064 Five Quail Books–Canyon & River books 928/776-9955 Rescue Specialists–Rescue & 1st Aid 509/548-7875 Flagstaff Native Plant & Seed–928/773-9406 River Art & Mud Gallery–River folk art 435/648-2688 Fran Sarena, ncmt–Body work 928/773-1072 River Gardens Rare Books–First editions 435/648-2688 Fretwater Press–Holmstrom & Hyde books 928/774-8853 River Rat Raft and Bike–Bikes and boats 916/966-6777 Funhog Press–Az Hiking Guides 928/779-9788 Rivers & Oceans Travel–La Paz, Baja sailing 800/473-4576 Hell’s Backbone Grill–Restaurant & catering 435/335-7464 RiverGear.com–Please call for guide discount. Herptech Metalworks–Biologically-inspired art 435/335-7464 Rubicon Adventures–Mobile cpr & 1st Aid 707/887-2452 High Desert Boatworks–Dories & Repairs 970/882-3448 RuffStuff–Off-road Fabrication 916/600-1945 Humphreys Summit–boating & skiing gear 928/779-1308 Sanderson Carpet Cleaning–Page, az 928/645-3239 Inner Gorge Trail Guides–Backpacking 877/787-4453 Sierra Rescue–wfr and swiftwater classes 800/208-2723 J Nautical Ventures–360/296-2747 Sunrise Leather–Birkenstock sandals 800/999-2575 Jack’s Plastic Welding–drybags & paco pads 800/742-1904 The Summit–Boating equipment 928/774-0724 Dr. Jim Marzolf, dds–Dentist 928/779-2393 Tele Choice–Phone rates 866/277-8660 Kathy Oliver, –CPA 928/853-2403 Teva–928/779-5938 KC Publications–Books on National Parks 800/626-9673 Westwater Books–Waterproof river guides 800/628-1326 Kingsmark Kennels–Flagstaff pet boarding 928/526-2222 Wet Dreams–River Equipment and Sewing 928-864-7091 The Kirk House B&B–Friday Harbor, wa 800/639-2762 Wilderness Medical Associates–888/945-3633 Kristen Tinning, ncmt–Rolfing & massage928 /525-3958 Willow Creek Books–Coffee & gear 435/644-8884 Laughing Bird Adventures–Sea kayak tours 503/621-1167 Winter Sun–Indian art & herbal medicine 928/774-2884 Care To Join Us?

f you’re not a member yet and would like to be, or if your membership has lapsed, get with the program! Your membership dues help fund many of the worthwhile projects we are pursuing. And you get this fine journal Ito boot. Do it today. We are a 501(c)(3) tax deductible non-profit organization, so send lots of money! You can pay securely on the gcrg website at www.gcrg.org or send a check to: Grand Canyon River Guides, po Box 1934, Flagstaff, az 86002-1934. Note whether you’re a guide member or general member.

$40 1-year membership $16 Short-sleeved t-shirt size (s, m, l, xl, xxl) ______$175 5-year membership $18 Long-sleeved t-shirt size (s, m, l, xl, xxl) ______$350 Life membership $30 Sun Hoodie—does not include spf (xs, s, m, l, xl) ______$500 Benefactor* $15 Baseball cap (classic style or soft mesh cap) ______$1000 Patron (A grand, get it?)* $8 Insulated gcrg mug *benefactors and patrons get a life membership, a silver split twig figurine pendant, and our undying gratitude.

boatman’s quarterly review page 47 Box 1934 Flagstaff, az 86002 boatman’s quarterly review NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED U.S. POSTAGE PAID MEDFORD, OR PERMIT NO. 110

Thanks to all you poets, photographers, writers, artists, and to all of you who send us stuff. Don’t ever stop. Special thanks to the Catena Foundation, the Adopt-a-Boatman sponsors, “Circle of Friends” contributors, and innumerable gcrg members for their generous and much appreciated support of this publication.