Hooked by Is Known for Its Rose- Nantucket Covered Cottages
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ANGELA WAYE/SHUTTERSTOCK MELINDA SUE GORDON/WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC. Parenting in ‘Dunkirk’ Is a the Digital Age Masterpiece Always fighting over screen time? Try this advice for Director Christopher Nolan’s war film induces an raising happy, grounded kids in a tech-addicted world. oppressive yet revelatory sense of dread. See B10 See B9 ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES B1 August 4-10, 2017 Summer glory on Nantucket Island. 1 2 3 4 5 1. The village of ‘Sconset, at the far eastern end of Nantucket Island, Hooked by is known for its rose- Nantucket covered cottages. The island’s beauty, sometimes austere, sometimes glorious, 2. Champagne and sunset from Galley Beach. is sublime. But it’s the history that casts a spell. 3. Brant Point Light Station, established in 1746. sailors (“Quakers with a vengeance,” Her- CHANNALY PHILIPP 4. Murray’s Toggery man Melville called them) chased whales to Shop sells the original ANTUCKET, Mass.—In summer, the senses as far as the South Pacific on voyages that Nantucket Reds pants, feed hungrily on Nantucket, and Nantucket lasted anywhere from three to five years. The not to mention sports gives generously, with the scent of honey- whaling industry light would not dim until a coats, skirts, and hats, all suckle in the air; white-trimmed, gray-shin- cheaper replacement was found, in the fields in the iconic color. gled houses as demure backdrops against joy- of Pennsylvania—petroleum. ous puffs of blue hydrangeas; and the lapping 5. Brant Point of the waves, a soothing song at sunset. The Gray Lady Grill’s BPG 1/4 Pound Many come to Nantucket to live in the When it’s cloudy and the island is cloaked Lobster Bloody Mary N present, to shed the cares of work and home. in fog, Nantucket is cloaked in hues of gray, and BPG Frozé. Its summer population swells from the rippling from sky to sea to streets. One might normal 12,000 to 50,000. Don your prettiest The town seal imagine that the island’s three lighthouses, a Lilly Pulitzer dress or a pair of those famous of Nantucket. beacon to home-faring sailors, could be the Nantucket Reds shorts, and pick your picture- It was known as the only light to cut through the thick fog. perfect spot from among 80 miles of gorgeous whaling capital of the “It’s a haunted island,” says Andrea Barnes. beaches. world through the late She is sitting at her loom, on the second floor Everything is a The entire island is a National Historic 18th and early of Nantucket Looms, a gift shop that doubles Landmark. This “faraway land” (the name 19th centuries. as an interior design and weaving studio. She little quirky and given by the local Wampanoag tribe) was takes a break from her weaving. Ghost tours MASSACHUSETTS dubbed by Ralph Waldo Emerson as “the Na- and books about ghosts in Nantucket abound. a lot real; you tion of Nantucket” in 1847. But far from being “The guy who owns the ouija board company don’t find that a insular, as islands can be, Nantucket long had lives on the island.” its sights cast wide on the world. She tells of a pilot who is the “most logical lot in the U.S. From the 18th to the mid-19th century, it person” she knows and yet “he sees ghosts was the whaling capital of the world. The all the time. I was shocked, ‘You ... believe in Bettina Landt, NEW island provided the fuel to light the world’s ghosts? You do?’” YORK NANTUCKET general manager, streets, households, and businesses, amass- CITY White Elephant Hotel ing enormous wealth in the process. Its See Nantucket on B2 SHUTTERSTOCK (BASE MAP); THE EPOCH TIMES (DESIGN) B2 @EpochTaste August 4–10, 2017 Experience Firsthand the Romance of the KOREAN ROYALTY Brant Point Light Station, located at the entrance of Nantucket Harbor. Hooked by T RAVELS Nantucket The island’s beauty, sometimes austere, sometimes glorious, is sublime. But it’s the history that casts a spell. Nantucket continued from B1 champagne on the beach.” From her keen marketing experience, though, “No one’s ever been like, ‘Oh, I was possessed.’ It’s she will tell you how much of that reality comes just you see creepy old whalers walking around from its image: “It’s almost like how Ralph Lauren [‘Sconset Village].” accomplished his success: He created this world She recounts a story about one time when the that really wasn’t real. It’s how people thought it pilot was walking his dog, early on a foggy morn- was supposed to be, so suddenly it became how South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks ing, and spotted a large man a few feet ahead. it was supposed to be. “He gets closer and closer, but the guy “His English countryside look and authentic Korean royal court cuisine isn’t progressing, he’s just in one the way you’re supposed to dress place walking, and so he walks when in the Hamptons, that’s closer and closer, and the dog is not real. He just thought it getting excited. He was really would sell shirts, and it scraggly, [with a] big beard, did. That’s almost how I he had a sack. He gets clos- feel like Nantucket is be- er and closer; the guy isn’t coming. You come out moving. He’s walking, but here and you act a certain he’s not going anywhere. way. Growing up, that’s He’s a couple of feet away not how it was.” from him. He walks into a What it was, was a focus tree and he disappears—and on quality of life, but with then, the tree disappears! The a real simplicity, an aspect dog stops and sits and is waiting, that’s perhaps encapsulated in and he’s like, ‘The dog is seeing it too, her shop’s philosophy. it’s not just me!’” “People really connect to things that “There’s just weird stuff, especially during the are meaningful. People crave that because things winter, [when] it’s quiet and no one’s around, and are so much easier these days. Our value system, it’s cloudy,” she says. for us, is that more is not necessarily better,” Clarke says. “You could have just one great set of plates, A Different Nantucket one great set of napkins. You don’t need tons of There’s the Nantucket for those who live here year- everything, but if everything you have is special round, and the Nantucket for those who visit: “It’s and has a story, that might just be enough.” Totally different completely, totally different worlds,” Barnes says. The aesthetics at the shop match the island: hues “If you want to see the real Nantucket,” she of- hover within the palette of grays, creams, blues, and distinctive fers, “I suggest going to the Madaket Mall.” The and greens. This is the place to buy a handwoven cuisines and mall sounds like a strange suggestion given the heirloom quality throw, or a boatneck sweater town has clamped down on retail chains (Ralph that will last for years. Locally made crafts carry interior designs on Lauren squeezed into downtown just before the their own stories, including ones steeped in nau- axe came down, and not without some grum- tical tradition, like the shell-collage valentines the 1st, 2nd, and bling too). inspired by the ones sailors used to send to their 3rd floors. The Madaket Mall is not a commercial mall. sweethearts from the Pacific islands. “It’s the dump on Nantucket,” Barnes laughs. A large gray-shingled shed serves as a take-it-or- Discovering Nantucket leave-it recycling drop-off center, where furni- My version of discovering Nantucket involved ture, clothes, and books that, though trash to hopping on a bike, a loaner from the White El- someone, might just become your next treasure. ephant Village hotel. There are 32 miles of bike And because it’s Nantucket, there are some rules trails on Nantucket, and a bike lover will attest posted (enforcement is questionable), such as “30 to the value of exploring at a bike’s pace, hopping MINUTES ONLY,” “NO TAG TEAM,” and a very on and off as you like. (Let me say, though, that Nantucket “CIVIL BEHAVIOR MANDATORY.” biking on the cobblestone streets downtown is not a good idea, although it is a memorable one.) A Tale of Two Nantuckets I headed out to ‘Sconset on the eastern end, along There’s no denying the wealth piled on this little gentle hills, and passed the southern area of the island, no matter how unostentatious it is on Middle Moors, known as Nantucket’s “Serengeti.” 212-594-4963 the surface (you won’t see luxury cars plying Apparently, wooden cutouts of lions, gazelles, or its streets, though it’s likely a number of private even raptors pop up sometimes. Off in the dis- 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 jets are parked at the airport). A recent look at tance was a cranberry bog and Sankaty Head www.misskoreaBBQ.com Sotheby’s listings shows a 10-bedroom property Light station. on 4.5 acres on sale for a cool $42.5 million. Too pretty for words is the village of ‘Sconset Open 24 hours Bess Clarke, who runs Nantucket Looms, (shorten from its full name Siasconset, the Al- mentions a couple of “dueling impressions” gonquian word for “place of great bones”), with of Nantucket.