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Fall Volume 27, No.3

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Fall Volume 27, No.3 The Bay Area Forum for artists, Textile Arts Council aficionados & collectors of weaving, rugs & tapestries, baskets, costume & wearable art September 2012 Upcoming Programs and Announcements Unless otherwise indicated*, all programs are held in the Koret Auditorium at the de Young Museum in Volume XXVII, Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Drive, San Francisco. Admission to the programs is FREE to TAC Number 3 members, $10 for non-members, and $5 for FAMSF members and students with I.D. No additional Museum admission fee is necessary. You may enter from the garage level or the main floor entrances at the front and side doors of the Museum. (*alternate location, when indicated, is the Legion of Honor Museum, 34th Ave & Clement St., San Francisco.) Saturday, September 29, 2012, 10 a.m. headgear found in the burial grounds, however, THE ROLE OF COLOR IN THE are made from gray foundation cloth usually COSTUMES OF NORTHERN decorated in brightly colored imported silks from CAUCASUS PEOPLES Byzantine, Central Asia and China. With Dr. Zvezdana Dode Dr. Dode presents material from closed Russian archaeological sites, giving us a rare Color plays a major role in the costume of the opportunity to look at fascinating archeological Northern Caucasus peoples. Dr. Zvezdana Dode, finds. She talks about current methods for an archaeologist and art historian who has done reconstructing an archaeological costume. extensive research on mediaeval costume and Since a costume is a visual object, it requires textiles of the Northern Caucasus,describes and pictorial reconstruction that relies on a variety of discusses the color choices and dyes of the sources: archeological artifacts; images; written people who inhabited this region. She explains evidence, and folklore legend and myth. Dode how the environment influenced these choices. discusses three types of archeological costume The clothes, headdress, reconstruction. The method chosen depends and footgear of these on how much of the original costume remains, Northern Caucasus how easy it is to reconstruct the costume from peoples (Turks, Iranians, these artifacts, and what supporting evidence is Adigs, and Vainah), available. Finally, she takes us through a photo are similar in form and reconstruction of a Dagestan costume. decoration. However, Zvezdana Dode is a Senior Researcher at the tthe color preference Southern Scientific Center, Russian Academy and comprehension of Science. She received her Ph.D. from of color harmony are The Oriental Institute, Russian Academy of different for the various Science, Moscow, then served as Professor groups that inhabited of Archaeology and Art History and as Curator this large region (even at Stavropol State Museum. As an Andrew W. as these costumes Mellon Fellow at The Metropolitan Museum of evolved within similar Art, New York, Dr. Dode made a comparative stylistic complexes). study of silk textiles of the Mongolian period Dagestan costume in Eurasia. She is the author of over 70 articles and 3 monographs. Her field work includes The local plants they chose as dye-stuff varied, Fine Arts excavations of Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Museums of though the same plants were generally available and mediaeval barrows sites in the Northern San Francisco region-wide. This is evident in the color choices Caucasus. for dyeing locally made wool and for printing de Young the patterns on linen textiles. The clothes and Programs continue on page 2, col. 1 Legion of Honor 1 Programs continued from page 1 Saturday, October 20, 2012, 10 a.m. embellishment: silk flowers, veiling, Wichern will show a collection of his HAT BLOCKS AND HATS / feathers, ribbon, and fabric sashing. millinery work and demonstrate how the SCULPTURAL FORM AND According to Wichern, it’s fairly simple hat blocks are used to create them. The ARTISTIC FUNCTION to create the frothy event hat; the lecture will cover aspects of the current harder work is to design a simpler hat, millinery industry. With Wayne Wichern something one can wear frequently—a Wayne Wichern carved a curious path sophisticated hat that speaks with quiet as florist, ballet dancer, and visual PLEASE NOTE: Our Annual General Meeting elegance, not a shout. display artist to create his 27-year career will take place in Koret Auditorium just as a fashion millinery designer and before the October lecture. Behind each of these elegant hats is the teacher. Wichern teaches semi-private shaping tool known as the hat block. workshops in his Redwood City studio, A piece of felt, a cloud of steam, and The hat block is a tool made for the and has taught at Penland School of a wooden hat block are the essential millinery trade by a skilled woodcraft Crafts in Penland, NC and Peters Valley ingredients for the making of a blocked artisan. While the hat block is for School of Craft in Layton, NJ. He has hat. Take a peek inside the studio of practical use in the studio, it is itself works in the Textile Collection of the Fine hat designer Wayne Wichern. Wichern an amazing artistic achievement. The Arts Museums of San Francisco and specializes in women’s blocked hat’s felt or straw is pulled or “blocked” the Museum of History and Industry in fashion hats and elegant evening and over these wood forms while it is hot Seattle, WA. cocktail hats. Of particular interest are and damp with steam. This gives it the his theatrical Kentucky Derby-style desired shape, then it is tied with cords hats which are lavish and frothy with to hold the materials in place. The hat Saturday, November 17, 2012, 10 a.m. then needs to dry before FROM TUTUS TO TRUNKS: being removed from the THE SHAPING OF DANCE hat block. DESIGN The hat blocks in With Connie Strayer Wichern’s collection From the heavy and concealing are infinite in variety costumes for dance in the time of and complexity. “My Louis XIV to the more revealing body job as a contemporary hugging costumes of today, design for millinery designer is to dance has evolved alongside fashion, utilize these vintage and but has been molded by individuals contemporary hat blocks with vision and/or purpose. They are in innovative ways, not artists, choreographers, directors, just using the obvious and the dancers themselves. The first shape, but to combine shortening of the dance skirt in the 18th the forms to tease out century, from the floor to just above the their hidden expression. ankle, is credited to a Parisian dancer, I am constantly amazed Marie Camargo, who wanted to be by the skill that went into sure that her fancy footwork would not the conceptualization be concealed by the fabric of her floor and carving of my hat length skirt. Her contemporary, Marie blocks, and if I had time Salle, defied the artifice of the court for another career I would costume and dressed herself in Grecian turn my attention to drapery to better display her movement creating hat blocks.” and gestures of pantomime as well as Photo courtesy Wayne Wichern Programs continue on page 4, col. 1 2 Programs continue on page 3, col. 1 4th Annual TEXTILE BAZAAR TEXTILE BAZAAR THE INSIDE SCOOP The Textile Bazaar is a unique event because of the vendors who, through Treasures from their travels, cultural knowledge, and collecting history, offer extraordinary textiles for sale. Some 34 vendors will bring their wares to the Bazaar. Around the One vendor is coming from Indonesia. The Balinese gallery owner searches for rare antique textiles across Southeast Asia. Another is bringing textiles World direct from skilled artisans: silk ikat shawls from Northeast Thailand; batik silk Sunday, October 21 scarves from Cirebon, Indonesia; and weavings from a Chin weaver prodigy 10:00 am - 4:00 pm in Myanmar. An expert on Chinese minority textiles and jewelry is bringing rare Chinese minority batiks, as well as Laotian scarves and Indian Ribari “story” panels. Moriarty Hall Japanese textiles include resist-dyed horse trappings, an unusual St. Anne of the Sunset Church fisherman’s robe, and antique kimono. An appraiser of Japanese textiles will (1300 Funston (at Judah), San Francisco) sell hand-dyed indigo garments from the remaining inventory of the Roger Barber Japanese antiques gallery. A Bay Area collector of Japanese fukusa • Free Admission …. Free Parking (ceremonial gift covers) offers these, and a rare man’s jacket of tsumugi silk. (in the church parking lot) Some vendors represent global cooperatives and international ventures. One • Payment by check or cash; some such group will offer natural-dyed, hand woven Peruvian home décor pieces, vendors accept credit cards and a Mayan cooperative will be selling such items as brocaded tapestries, huipiles, purses, and pillow covers. • Muni: N Judah to Funston; buses The Bazaar has always been a great opportunity for downsizing collections. #6 Parnassus, #43 Masonic, #44 One vendor has textiles collected in West Africa in 1978. A photographer all stop at 9th and Judah is offering a large group of huipiles collected in Guatemala in 1973. Other collectors will be bringing early 20th Century Navajo rugs and blankets, Panamanian molas, and Mexican silver. Jewelry and textile books are also part of the Textile Bazaar. A book dealer will once again offer some unusual, rare, and out-of-print volumes. A jewelry designer wants to share her “inspired Asian semi-precious stones, glass and beads; necklaces and earrings.” Other vendors will have antique and contemporary jewelry from artisans around the world. There will be thousands of items for you to browse through. Nowhere in the Bay Area is there an event like this– with so many wonderful textiles in one place! Mark your calendars now for our October 21st bazaar! 3 Programs continued from page 3 NEXT her beauty. These dancers were just two of the individuals have brought us to a bounty of visual NEWSLETTER many individuals that helped shape the look of riches in dance today.
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