FINANCE How Apparel Companies Can Deal with a Slowing Economy by Deborah Belgum Executive Editor

NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS

$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 14 APRIL 5–11, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS

TRADE SHOW REPORT LA Majors Market Makes Some Changes

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

This season, the LA Majors Market, which caters to juniors fashions and department-store buyers at the California Market Center, underwent a few changes. Part of the front lobby was turned into a cozy living-room space surrounded by wooden walls and faux greenery to give it a lived-in look. A coffee bar was open and free boxed lunches were served to buyers who could enjoy their food at high tables with stools. There was also a handful of buyer lounges where electronic devices could be recharged, and there were private buyer meet- ing areas to make doing business more intimate and convenient. For this edition of LA Majors Market, which ran April 1–3, all temporary showrooms were concentrated on the 13th floor to make it easier for buyers to connect with vendors. CMC of- ficials said there were 101 vendors exhibiting in the temporary space, which was about even with last year’s show. Vendors LA Majors page 9 INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE How Apparel Companies Can Deal With a Slowing Economy By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor

The formula for doing business is slowly changing this year. While interest rates were rising at a steady pace last year, it’s a different story this year. The Federal Reserve hasn’t raised benchmark interest rates in 2019 and may even lower them, which is good news for apparel manufacturers and retailers. Meanwhile, the U.S. economy is expected to cool off this year and in 2020 as economies around the world slow down and a trade dispute with China is still in the works. With this scenario, we asked financial experts this ques- tion: With U.S. interest rates remaining stable amidst a slowing economy, what financial advice do you have for apparel manufacturers when it comes to borrowing money and planning for the future? Finance page 3

6 INSIDE: WILD ABOUT COLOR Where fashion gets down to business SM Animal prints and bright neons were all over the runway at the Directives West trend show for buyers, held April 1 at the California Market Center. For more looks from the show, see page 7. 3 6

Volcom IP acquired ... p. 2 Charlotte Russe brand sold ... p. 2 Barbara Fields trend forecast ... p. 8

Derek Heart—Leopard-Print Sweater Finance and Made in Ameerica resources ... p. 9 Vibrant Miu—Neon-Green Skinny Jean

ANTHONY MITCHELL www.apparelnews.net

01,3,4,9.cover.indd 1 4/4/19 6:35 PM NEWS Volcom’s Intellectual Property Sold to Licensing Company Action-sportswear powerhouse Volcom Salter is the chairman and chief executive of- said in a statement. “ABG has built an im- No. We continually seek to improve. Our has moved into a new home. ficer of ABG. pressive portfolio by being a powerhouse in profitability has been increasing over the Authentic Brands Group, the New York ABG will work with Todd Hymel, Vol- brand development and marketing. Jamie past few years. We were not distressed,” brand-development and licensing company, com’s chief executive officer, to create a new and his team share our vision and excitement Hymel said. announced on April 2 that it had acquired company called Liberated Brands, which for Volcom’s long-term growth, and we are But action-sports business analyst Jeff Volcom’s intellectual property for an undis- will handle Volcom’s business and operations. excited to be a part of this next chapter for Harbaugh of Jeff Harbaugh & Associates closed amount. ABG will take a minority stake in the new the brand.” said in an April 3 research note that the brand Volcom’s former parent company, Ker- company, and Hymel and Volcom’s current Volcom runs offices overseas in Tokyo, had been troubled. ing S.A., had been shopping the Southern management team will take a majority stake. Sydney and France as well as supply chain “The limited information we got about California company around for about a year. Volcom’s management and design team and distribution operations around the world, Volcom from Kering told us Volcom wasn’t Paris-headquartered Kering said that it want- will continue to serve in their current jobs, which other ABG–owned brands are forecast performing even close to a way that could ed to focus more on its luxury brands includ- Hymel said. With this new deal, ABG will to leverage, Hymel said. justify the purchase price. Kering’s decision ing Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta focus on building business development ABG is no stranger to the world of ac- a year ago to sell it confirms that,” Harbaugh and Alexander McQueen. Kering paid $608 and brand awareness for Volcom. It will tion sports. Salter founded snowboard brand said. million for Volcom in 2011, when it acquired also work with Liberated Brands’ retail and Ride Inc. in 1992. In 2013, ABG acquired For the brand’s next steps, Volcom will the Costa Mesa, Calif.–based brand. wholesale operations as a platform for the ski brand Spyder. continue to develop its core men’s and snow ABG owns 50 brands and fashion labels expansion of complementary ABG-owned ABG has a track record of acquiring business as well as build its women’s and including Juicy Couture, Vince Camuto, brands. distressed businesses, but Volcom’s busi- kids’ categories in North America and key Jones New York, Aéropostale, Hervé Hymel said this deal will put Volcom ness was not distressed and profitability had international markets. ABG also will devel- Leger and Frederick’s of Hollywood, val- in good hands. “Jamie’s commitment and been looking up, Hymel said. He declined to op digital marketing campaigns, which will ued at more than $9.3 billion in annual retail conviction throughout the sale process was reveal the brand’s revenues. “Are we com- include influencer campaigns aimed at Gen sales, according to an ABG statement. Jamie proof of his passion for the brand,” Hymel pletely happy today with our profitability? Z and millennial audiences.—Andrew Asch Charlotte Russe and Peek Kids Brands Sold to Separate Buyers As apparel retailer Charlotte Russe con- YM,” Charlotte Russe interim Chief Execu- who have stuck with us through the past forward to continuing its legacy and staying tinues to wind down during the final steps tive Officer Dayna Quanbeck said in a press few months, to our employees, who have set true to its loyal followers.” of its bankruptcy proceedings, the company, release. “This acquisition marries a beloved this brand up for an exciting future, and to At YM Inc., the company represents founded in Southern California, was able to brand with a sophisticated retail platform Mamiye for sharing our passion and vision young-adult, teen-focused and children’s ensure its name and labels will continue on. and provides Charlotte Russe a path to grow for our beloved brand,” Quanbeck said in a brands including Urban Planet, Urban Charlotte Russe sold its branding and in the future.” statement. Kids, Bluenotes and West 49. After launch- related intellectual property to YM Inc. in The company released a similar state- Started in the 1940s by four brothers as a ing teen-clothing brand Stitches in 1975, the Toronto, and it sold its Peek Kids children’s ment regarding the sale of its Peek Kids textile supplier, Mamiye Brothers has grown company began to acquire additional fashion brand to Mamiye Brothers Inc. in New brand, acquired in 2016 by Charlotte Russe, into a design, manufacturing and market- brands and retailers. York. to Mamiye Brothers. Both transactions were ing firm for women’s and children’s brands, “Charlotte Russe is an iconic retailer, and “We are very excited Charlotte Russe announced on March 29. which include C&C California and Bebe we could not be more excited to have them will be joining the portfolio of brands at “We are grateful to our loyal customers Girls. join the YM Group,” said Eric Grundy, chief “Mamiye has long admired the Peek executive of YM Inc., in a press release. brand, its unique design aesthetic and ex- “We believe that this acquisition aligns well ceptional relationship with its consumers,” with our growth strategies and will further Mamiye Chief Executive Chuck Mamiye strengthen our mission to exceed customer said in a statement. “Just like all kids, Peek expectations by delivering fast fashion at Kids is growing and changing, and we look amazing value.”—Dorothy Crouch CalendarCalendar April 7 Coachella Festival Dusk Till April 20 Dawn Denver Apparel & Accessories Hong Kong International Home 46605 Dillon Road Market Textiles and Furnishings Fair Coachella, Calif. Denver Merchandise Mart Hong Kong Convention and Through April 14 Denver Exhibition Centre Through April 9 Fashion and Sustainability Hong Kong Summit Through April 23 NW Trend Show LIM College Pier 91, Smith Cove Terminal New York Seattle April 26 Through April 9 Stagecoach April 14 Empire Polo Club April 9 Fashion Market Northern Indio, Calif. California Through April 28 Première Vision New York San Mateo County Event Center Designs San Mateo, Calif. April 27 Metropolitan Pavilion Through April 16 New York Global Sources Fashion Through April 10 AsiaWorld-Expo April 19 Hong Kong WORKING CAPITAL SOLUTIONS April 12 Coachella Festival Dusk till Through April 30 Dawn Hawaii Market Merchandise 46605 Dillon Road FOR INNOVATIVE BUSINESSES. Expo Coachella, Calif. Blaisdell Exhibition Center There’s more Through April 21 on ApparelNews.net. Honolulu Through April 14 For calendar details and contact We’re committed to amplifying the growth of your business with our information, visit ApparelNews. forward-thinking nancing services. Get in touch with Merchant today to net/events. talk about how we can help you set sail to your dream business. Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

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2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 5–11, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.calendar..indd 2 4/4/19 6:47 PM RETAIL Winnie Couture to Roll Out Franchises By Andrew Asch Retail Editor his store managers and tailors customize Winnie Lee’s de- Monkee’s, headquartered in Winston-Salem, N.C., have signs for clients. franchises. Winnie Couture opened its first bridal shop in 2001. The Lees are immigrants from Hong Kong who met and But Mercedes Gonzalez, who is the director of Global Nearly two decades later, it is starting to franchise its con- married in Houston, where they launched Winnie Couture. Purchasing Companies in New York, said that franchises cept across the country. Eight years later, in the midst of a recession, they opened a haven’t necessarily been a popular business model for fash- Chris Lee, who co-founded the brand, forecasts that six Beverly Hills flagship that thrived despite harsh economic ion. Franchise stores only sell the product the franchisor franchises of the Beverly Hills, Calif.–based bridal shop will times and served as their company’s headquarters. sells and are often the same anywhere you go. It doesn’t open by the end of the year. First on the docket are locations This past February, they moved their flagship a few make room for regional variables such as weather and fash- in Boston, Phoenix and San blocks away from Rodeo Drive to a ion tastes. “Bridal might work as a franchise. It is not as time Francisco. Other targeted cit- building they lease at 9437 S. Santa sensitive nor as region sensitive,” she said. ies include Miami; Washington Monica Blvd., where core retail Each season, Winnie Couture’s design team releases new D.C.; Seattle; Philadelphia; and price points for bridal gowns run styles. The Fall/Winter 2019 collection was inspired by the New Orleans. from $2,500 to $8,000. natural beauty of the Skógafoss waterfall in Iceland, the lo- In five years, Lee predicted The world of fashion franchise cation where the movie “Thor: The Dark World” was filmed. there could be 100 Winnie Cou- deals has its pros and cons, said Pat The gowns feature thin, gossamer fabric and European lace. ture stores across the United Johnson of consultants The Retail Lee said that Winnie Couture stores will focus on cus- States. Currently, Lee and his Owners Institute. “A franchise is tomer service, which starts with the first free consultation in wife, Winnie Chlomin Lee, the often perceived as an easier way to the retailer’s studios, dominated with chandeliers and bridal brand’s designer, own seven start a business,” she said. “You get gowns.“We offer champagne and have a team of knowledge- Winnie Couture stores in cit- training wheels on how to operate a able and experienced bridal stylists,” he said. “We have the ies including Atlanta, Chicago, business and what to buy. But it can brides select dress styles, fabric materials and we offer cus- Houston, Dallas and Charlotte, be burdensome. It can be a trade-off tom measurements.” COURTESY WINNIE COUTURE N.C. It also wholesales to 150 Winnie Couture ﬂagship in Beverly Hills in who owns the inventory and how “At the end of the day,” he explained, “we want to serve independent retailers. much [franchisees] have to buy.” millions of brides with personalized customer service, “For us, this has been a reces- A number of fashion retailers in- whether it is through company-owned stores or through sion-proof business,” Chris Lee said of his boutiques, where cluding Apricot Lane Boutiques of Vacaville, Calif., and franchises.” ● INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE

Finance Continued from page 1 down, growth is still fore- Darrin Beer, Western Regional Manager, Commercial casted in 2019. Continued Services, CIT Group economic development paired with interest-rate sta- Apparel manufacturers no longer have to settle for one- bilization gives apparel man- size-fits-all financing. A financial provider that understands ufacturers time to enhance the apparel industry and a manufacturer’s business operations their bottom-line profitabil- can and should customize financing to suit the specific needs. ity and strengthen their bal- It’s also wise to use an experienced and flexible provider that ance sheet. A strong balance can offer a wide range of financial solutions, including work- sheet provides a solid foun- ing capital and factoring services, import and trade solutions, dation and allows companies treasury management, and business real-estate loans. the flexibility to adjust their Apparel manufacturers should also ensure their accounts business models, whether Darrin Beer, Western Mark Bienstock, Sydnee Breuer, Gino Clark, Managing Regional Manager, Managing Director, Executive Vice President, Director, Originations, receivable are protected. The retail landscape can be volatile to take advantage of good Commercial Express Trade Capital Rosenthal & Rosenthal White Oak Commercial as bankruptcy filings have continued into 2019. times or ride out downturns. Services, CIT Group Finance As for planning ahead, it’s always important to make sure Without a crystal ball to your business has sufficient capital to support growth and han- predict the future, it is sensible to prepare for any market fluc- Rob Greenspan, President and Chief Executive, dle sales fluctuations due to seasonality, order deferments or tuations. Greenspan Consult cancellations. A properly structured financing facility should Borrowers have become accustomed to low interest rates provide a company with adequate borrowing flexibility to Joshua Goodhart, Executive Vice President and over the past decade or so. New startup companies have not manage through any and all of these events. National Sales Manager, Merchant Financial Group seen the years with high, soaring interest rates. While interest rates are stable for now, no one can predict Mark Bienstock, Managing Director, Express Trade With the U.S. economy slowing and interest rates remain- what the future will bring. When the economy slows down, Capital ing stable for the time being, we believe manufacturers are apparel manufacturers need to keep their attention focused on entering an uncertain and dangerous time for the apparel busi- assets that turn into cash such as accounts receivable and in- By nature, the majority of apparel producers rely on exter- ness but one that is ripe with opportunity for those who pursue ventories. nal financing to run the day-to-day operations of their com- measured and strategic growth with the right financing part- Having large investments in these assets that are not turn- pany. That is what keeps factors and other lenders in business. ners. ing into cash fast enough will cause the companies to borrow We always stress to our clients not to buy or produce any- Our advice to clients and prospects continues to be to keep more money. Not only do their interest costs increase, but they thing without underlying orders. Speculation requires signifi- borrowing levels at a minimum and to cant cash-flow strains and interest costs that most companies keep overhead tight. The key right now is cannot absorb. to maintain profitability in this troubled Whether interest rates are low or high, watching your cash market. It is important to be ahead of the flow is paramount to sustaining a profitable apparel business, game and manage expenses effectively, both in the short and long term. especially interest expense. We urge manufacturers to work close- Sydnee Breuer, Executive Vice President, Rosenthal & ly with their lenders and accountants to Rosenthal come up with plans that will work. Bor- rowing money is still very much an af- For the time being, interest rates are stable although they fordable option for growth. Merchant have increased quite a bit from a year or so ago. has found that manufacturers who do not There are signs of a slowing economy along with “noise” of work closely with their team of profes- other disrupters such as tariffs, border closings, not to mention sionals are more challenged to achieve the continued shifting of consumer preferences. success during times of uncertainty. Joshua Goodhart, Executive Rob Greenspan, Sunnie Kim, President When it comes to borrowing money and planning for the We also encourage clients to look for Vice President and National President and Chief and Chief Executive, new ways to make money. For some, Sales Manager, Merchant Executive, Greenspan Hana Financial Inc. future, apparel manufacturers need to be conservative in their Financial Group Consult projections and borrowings and vigilant on cost controls and that may be to expand with a direct-to- inventory management. consumer platform where margins are more attractive, and for others it may be to target creditworthy could reach their borrowing limits, which could become prob- Gino Clark, Managing Director, Originations, White online retailers. lematic. Oak Commercial Finance The online retail market is expanding, and we encourage Apparel manufacturers, during times of a slowing econo- manufacturers to develop new retail relationships. The key my, need to maintain their liquidity. Companies need to keep a The decision of the U.S. Federal Reserve to hold interest for all manufacturers is to manage this process in a measured focus on cash flow and profitability. rates steady amid projections of slower growth bodes well for and cost-effective manner to avoid burning through cash and By reviewing their operating expenses and updating their apparel manufacturers and the retail industry. capital. The good news is while the economy is expected to slow Finance page 4

APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 5–11, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3,4,9.cover.indd 3 4/4/19 6:35 PM INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE

have a financing structure in place that creates Finance Continued from page 3 breathing room in the event that a company sales projections and cash-flow plans, they experiences a difficult quarter or two. can be ahead of the curve if changes need to The industry has become a more capital- be made. intensive endeavor over the last few years with manufacturers and importers sometimes hav- Sunnie Kim, President and Chief ing to carry more inventory than they’d prefer. Executive, Hana Financial Inc. Large licensors sometimes are seeking larger licensing fees upfront, and direct-to-consumer Historically, rates remain modestly strategies are requiring larger expenditures, low. This is only the second pause in rate hikes whether in the form of IT or customer-acqui- in the last 10 quarters, which is a welcome re- sition costs. lief for many apparel manufacturers looking to The net impact of these changes is that borrow money for expansion. companies generally need more equity in However, companies need to maintain a conjunction with a lender who understands cautious approach as Federal Reserve Chair- both the changes in the industry and seasonal man Jerome Powell’s stance can needs that might be higher than best be described as one of wait they’ve historically been. and see. There are many un- If a company is showing knowns that can jeopardize the solid growth while experiencing current stability we enjoy, such some of these other challenges, as the upcoming 2020 election, it sometimes makes sense to overall relations with Mexico bring in an equity partner to and the China factor on a macro help take the company to the level. There are also the ever- next level. Once a management changing dynamics currently team decides to pursue that being experienced in both the strategy, it’s always helpful to wholesale and retail distribution Robert Meyers, President, engage an investment-banking channels on a micro level. Republic Business Credit partner who understands the ap- Regardless of the economic parel industry. cycle, planning for future needs Once the right capital struc- should always be disciplined and ture is in place, companies need based on specific market-sector to stay highly focused on which needs with a combination of expenditures are vital and cash reserves, needed additions which ones don’t really add a to debt earmarked to support tremendous amount of value. specific business-cycle (work- We’ve recently seen a number ing-capital) needs and fixed-as- of companies within the industry set additions. hit with ransomware attacks, for instance. Investing in increased Robert Meyers, President, Dave Reza, Senior Vice security around a company’s IT Republic Business Credit President, Western infrastructure is never a bad idea, Region, Milberg Factors particularly at a time when these At this point of the economic attacks have cost companies cycle, we advise our apparel significant dollars in lost sales. manufacturers to retain their We like to advise our clients to al- earnings to provide more cush- ways maintain both a 12-month ion for unexpected future events. cash-flow projection and a 13- We recommend clients ex- week cash-flow projection so tend their current financing that management can quickly as- agreements to take advantage of certain what the true borrowing the present interest-rate environ- needs of the company will be in ment. While you can’t plan for the short and long term. all future events, the combination of a supportive partner and Ken Wengrod, Co-founder/ retained capital will better pre- Kevin Sullivan, Senior Vice President, Regional President, FTC Commercial pare your company to thrive in Credit Manager, the future. Commercial Services Corp. Group, Wells Fargo First and foremost, appar- Capital Finance Dave Reza, Senior Vice el manufacturers should not President, Western Region, be focusing on interest-rate fluctuations. It is out of their Milberg Factors control. Historically, when With the economy slowing the interest rates are low, we and retail continuing its woes, typically see private-equity we would advise clients and firms highly leveraging good prospects to “pump the brakes” companies with cheap money, on speculative and or excess in- and as a result these compa- ventory purchases and stay fo- nies struggle to push sales cused on cost control. just to maintain their liquidity. By managing their assets Instead, the focus should be appropriately in relation to the on what manufacturers can do scale of actual order activity, Ken Wengrod, Co- best—create and ship merchan- founder/President, FTC they will improve liquidity and Commercial Corp. dise that customers demand. It reduce borrowing requirements. is a manufacturer’s job to create Lower levels of debt are ben- merchandise that exceeds their eficial in any environment but are particularly consumers’ expectations in terms of authentic- important in a slowing economy. Further, the ity, integrity and value. continuing financial problems of several well- When that is established, then they can ex- known retailers cannot be understated. amine all areas of their supply chain to mini- mize their costs. In addition, there are numer- Kevin Sullivan, Senior Vice President, ous avenues of costs that go unchecked by Regional Credit Manager, Commercial manufacturers. They can be negotiating better terms with all their suppliers, including their Services Group, Wells Fargo Capital banking and factoring costs. The ultimate goal Finance for manufacturers is to negotiate extended As we continue to see major shifts within open-supplier terms to match their trade cycle the retail landscape and around how consum- and only borrow to support growth and not ers purchase products in general, it’s impor- for building excessive inventory levels in case tant for apparel companies to make sure they they get a future order. ●

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 5–11, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,3,4,9.cover.indd 4 4/4/19 6:38 PM MADE IN AMERICA After Making a Splash in Custom Styles, Candice Cuoco Unveils Ready-To-Wear Candice Cuoco SHAPE UP gained notoriety in 2015 by competing on the “Project Runway” TV show, where she and capture the attention of defined herself as an artist designing made- to-measure styles with retailers with a Gothic and romantic edge. One year later, she introduced her self- named Candice Cuoco label, which offered custom corsets, moto jackets and dresses. But many of her fans PHOTOS BY ARUN NEVADER couldn’t afford the Candice Cuoco more than $3,000 price tag for a corset and other high price points. premier On her social media, women left variations of the same message. performance “I can’t wait until I can afford that,” Cuoco re- called them saying. She fabrics made could sympathize. She often couldn’t afford her own designs. in the USA Cuoco was deter- mined to find a way to meet her customers’ demands. In February at the Project Womens trade show in Las Vegas, she unveiled a ready-to- wear division of Candice Cuoco, which was seen on the runway March 24 at Art Hearts Fashion in downtown Los Ange- les, where she ended the event with an impromptu dance party on the runway. Work on the ready-to-wear line started softer, more feminine style, she said. last year when she asked her fans to share Cuoco’s first ready-to-wear line, made in their thoughts on social media. Los Angeles, features 40 styles, which in- “They said that ready-to-wear should be clude jumpsuits, wrap dresses, trousers and simple. We don’t want boring. We want af- dresses with uneven hems. Also in the mix fordable and wearable,” she said. But she are leather jackets, which have been a focus also did not want to compromise her atel- of her brand. ier’s style in a bid for the wholesale market. One jacket is a blazer with a collarless, She looked to stress personality in the jewel neckline. Dresses have custom prints details. Some hangtags will contain seeds manufactured on Epson-brand printers. for roses. Some of the jackets will feature By making prints on an as-needed basis, details such as ruffles on cuffs, which add a her brand avoids overruns, she said. Retail The goal at Antex Knitting Mills is to service the knit prices for the new ready- to-wear label range from fabric needs of the apparel industry with high quality, $250 to $650. competitively priced fabrics, backed by outstanding Cuoco’s ready-to- wear line was first customer service and technical expertise. formed as a partnership with NYX Cosmetics founder Toni Ko. Cuoco Antex’s product line includes: was going to serve as the Matchmaster prints line’s creative head while Antex Premier Performance Ko was planning to take care of the business side Dry Inside Performance Cotton of the label. But the part- Pyrosafe by Antex flame retardant knits nership amicably dis- solved, Cuoco said, when the designer wanted to take a more active role in

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APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 5–11, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 5

05.MIA.indd 5 4/4/19 6:45 PM TRENDS Directives West Showcases Colors That Pop in Updated Retro Looks for Fall 2019

Bohemian looks, tailored pieces, and rein- vented 1980s and ’90s styles dominated the runway at the Directives West trend show called “Trends of the Season Fall/Winter 2019—IRL: Disrupting Traditional With the Unexpected.” “The offerings of color, print and pattern, and texture are expansive,” said Directives West Vice President Shelda Hartwell during the April 1 event at the California Market Center, which kicked off the April 1–3 run of LA Majors Market. “From retailer collaborations of shop-in- shops to tastemakers bringing an exciting ele- ment of surprise to the shopping floor and the legacy brands that have been teaming up with cutting-edge streetwear savants, this is disrupting the traditional with the unexpected,” she said. The company’s newly appointed executive vice president of merchandising, Michelle Ev- ans, emphasized how Directives West’s parent company, The Doneger Group in New York, ANTHONY MITCHELL identifies trends within the market. 4SI3NNA hoodie, Ashley by 26 International Shine coat, Eden Know.One.Cares L.I.F.E. sweatshirt, L.I.F.E. top, Wallﬂower “We continue to lean into our ability to bal- Spring Haze midi coat, Dress Forum blouse, Society blouse, OAT jacket and pants, Jordache Heritage corduroy skirt dress, Endless Rose Ami + Nicole skort, New York trousers Dress Forum bodysuit tie-dye jean ance the art and science of retail—finding the mesh turtleneck Lionel bag right intersection between data and human cre- ativity,” she said. In denim, looks are trending toward dou- paisley ruffled blouses, corduroy and faux spiration was evident throughout the runway. For Fall 2019, rust takes over in hues of bling up on these pieces with complete en- shearling-trim jacket details. Big-graphic T-shirt trends nodded to the ’90s burnt orange and terra cotta, while cobalt blue, sembles in jackets or shirts paired with jeans or Fall 2019 also includes shimmering sequins, with images of late hip-hop artists Christopher soft pinks in dusty rose and blush, soft yellows going all the way in with coveralls. Denim cuts sheer tulle and metallics. These are meant to “Biggie Smalls” Wallace and Lisa “Left Eye” and marigold, sage and Kelly green, and neon include baggy, wide-leg, high-waisted styles, stand out in formalwear such as a white-sequin Lopes. will also lead the season. slim pin and mom jeans. Washes are trend- midi dress and novelty items including foil- While many of Fall 2019’s trends allow Major trends in animal prints are seen ev- ing toward dark rinse, lighter indigo, enzyme striped pants and silver-metallic jackets. consumers to have a lot of fun, pieces that erywhere from biker jackets, vests and cardi- washed, winter white, gray and black, while The show’s nod to styles of the 1980s and appear tailored and clean could be seen in gans to slipdresses, leggings and bra tops that sustainable sourcing is gaining ground. ’90s emphasized new takes on tie-dye in midi plaid statement trousers in addition to blaz- feature leopard, zebra, cheetah and snake pat- While the prairie trend remains with cow- dresses and jeans, along with schoolbags in er-and-pant sets. Pairing these styles with a terns. In addition to animal prints, Fall 2019 boy boots and dresses, the style is shifting to- transparent bright-yellow plastic and shim- turtleneck in a bright color, striped blouse sees jackets and coats made entirely of faux fur ward a modern take on bohemian looks. These mering metallics. From “Clueless”-style plaids or graphic T-shirt finish off these tailored or with furry trim accents on cuffs and collars. trends in “Modern Bohemia” can be seen in and slipdresses to neon bicycle shorts, ’90s in- trends.—Dorothy Crouch

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TRENDS

Barbara Fields’s Spring and Fall 2020

2019 Scholarship Awards Luncheon Forecasts for Juniors: Mom Jeans,

Neon and Puffer Jackets JOIN OUR 2019 SPONSORS Skinny jeans have long

CALIFORNIA reigned over the juniors denim FASHION market, but when the Spring

FOUNDATION 2020 season rolls around they

will have to make room for CFF Continues to Contribute to the Success of the the more relaxed style of mom Next Generation of Designers jeans, said Barbara Fields of Each student receives a scholarship in the the self-named Barbara Fields name of the industry sponsor Buying Office. All proceeds go toward regional Fashion Design Students Fields produced a series of forecasting seminars for Spring and Fall 2020 looks that will THURSDAY, MAY 2, 2019 dominate juniorswear next 11:00 AM – 2:00 PM year. The trend event for buyers California Market Center attending LA Majors Market, 110 East 9th Street, Los Angeles CA 90079 held April 1–3, took place in a FASHION THEATER cabana outside of her home of- (Lobby Level) fice in Los Angeles’ Westwood Tickets are $50 per person | Buffet Luncheon area. Besides relaxed mom jeans, buyers were ers. Bodysuits, jumpsuits and dresses will

told to be on the lookout for camouflage continue their popular run.

prints, tie-dye, windbreaker outerwear, as Retailers attending the set of seminars in- PARTICIPATING SCHOOLS Academy of Art University- San Francisco | California State Polytechnic University- Pomona | Fullerton College well as clothes with a military/workwear cluded Ross Stores and Canadian retailers California State University-Los Angeles | California State University- Long Beach | Long Beach City College style and neon colors. “There was more Stitches and Bluenotes. Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising | Los Angeles Trade Tech College | Santa Monica College neon than I’ve ever seen,” Fields said of her Lory Lena, a Southern California buyer Mt. San Antonio College | Otis College of Art & Design | Pasadena City College | Woodbury University research shopping trips to fashion capitals working for Kress Stores, headquartered in such as London, Barcelona and Tokyo. San Juan, Puerto Rico, also attended. She FOR RESERVATIONS AND TICKET INFORMATION: Fields has been making forecasts for ju- said that Fields was showcasing trends that (213) 688-6288 or [email protected] niors styles since the mid-’80s. She believes started to take root a few months ago. “I saw PLEASE MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO: that trends that start in London and Tokyo a lot of cinnamon and spice colors at the Oc- California Fashion Foundation | 444 S. Flower Street, 37th floor | Los Angeles, CA 90071 will most likely be influential in North tober market,” Lena said.—Andrew Asch CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED The California Fashion Foundation is established as a 501(c)(3) California Public Benefit Corporation Tax ID: 95-4677121

444 South Flower Street, Los Angeles, California 90071 Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 email: [email protected] Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org

Get Inspired! America one year to 18 months later. Hundreds of Stocked For Spring 2020, Novelty Knits, Fields forecast that pop- Wovens, Linings ular colors will be olive and khaki as well as rust, and More! and neon hues will include hot pink, yellow, One Roll Minimum. orange, teal and green. Pastels of lilac, pink, www.cinergytextiles.com lemon and blue also will Tel: 213-748-4400 be dominant, while black [email protected] and white will continue to be strong. Along with camouflage and tie-dye, popu- Greene Textiles inc lar Spring prints will Telephone: (323) 890-1110 / Fax: ( 323) 890-1180 be stripes and animal www.greenetextiles.com prints. Graphic T-shirts Barbara Fields at right Email: [email protected] featuring humor from ORGANICALLY GROWN, LOCALLY DYED, Contact:PRINTED ANDIra Bashist FINISHED IN CALIFORNIA social-media memes  100 % Cotton and inspirational quotes Telephone: Cotton/ (323) Modal 890-1110 / Fax: (323) 890-1180Stock will continue to be seen  Tri- Blendwww.greenetextile.com next year. Silhouettes PFD predicted to be popular  Poly/ Email:Cotton [email protected] Rayon/ Spandex include camisole tops,  Cotton/ SpandexContact: Ira Bashist ORGANIC COTTON T-shirts and sweatshirts  Wet/ PigmentECO FRIENDLYPrints FABRICSORGANIC COTTON W/ SPANDEXwith dolman sleeves as  Jersey PFD ORGANIC/ RECYCLED POLYwell as tops bearing a  Fleece IN STOCK BAMBOO/ COTTON twist knot in the front. • GOTS CertifiedFrench Cotton Terry – with and without Spandex In outerwear, puffer  •Thermal Organic Cotton/Recycled Poly jackets and puffer vests will be everywhere. Cor-  Interlock• Bamboo Cotton/Spandex duroy jackets that have • Modal/Cotton Double Jersey Knits –/ with Single and Knits without Spandex collars with a Shearling- All above fabrics are available in various constructions like fabric are expected including: Jersey, French Terry and 1 x 1 Rib to be big as are color- blocked, oversize sweat-

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 5–11, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

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Sol Angeles to Unveil The Workshop Apparel News Group With the skyline of Hollywood chang- The Workshop will offer one-of-a-kind ing with new construction projects, Eli and and limited editions of Sol Angeles styles Lindsey Myers of Sol Angeles are planning not available to retailers that carry the brand, to be right in the middle of it. including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and The founders of the Los Angeles–made Anthropologie. 741945-2019 fashion brand are planning to open an ex- One T-shirt slated to be offered at The Seventy-four years of news, periential shop for their label this summer. Workshop will be imprinted with the slo- fashion and information Called The Workshop, it will be located in gan “Support California Culture.” CEO/PUBLISHER an 800-square-foot space in a boat-shaped Located minutes away from shops on TERRY MARTINEZ building in the middle of the Crossroads Hollywood Boulevard selling tourist T- of the World complex. Located at the cor- shirts, Eli Myers said The Workshop will EXECUTIVE EDITOR ner of Sunset Boulevard and Cherokee Av- show people a California that may not be DEBORAH BELGUM enue, the space formerly housed an office on tourist maps. It’s a California of arti- RETAIL EDITOR for the art-book publisher Taschen. sans, designers and creatives. ANDREW ASCH ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sol Angeles, which started business in One attraction of The Workshop will be DOROTHY CROUCH 2009, currently has its 7,000-square-foot Eli Myers of Sol Angeles that shoppers can pick up a shirt that is de- CONTRIBUTORS ALYSON BENDER operations at the same compound. signed only 100 yards away. “It’s important VOLKER CORELL JOHN ECKMIER Crossroads of the World was built in 1936 and was designated an Histor- that The Workshop will be next to our offices. We’ll be able to use the JOHN McCURRY ic-Cultural Monument in 1974 by the Los Angeles Cultural Heritage Com- shop as a creative lightning rod,” Myers said. ESTEVAN RAMOS TIM REGAS mission. In the 1940s, film director Alfred Hitchcock had an office there. Sol Angeles makes a collection of cut-and-sew knits for women, men N. JAYNE SEWARD HOPE WINSBOROUGH Creative companies continue to do business in the compound, which and kids that range from T-shirts featuring the brand’s wave logo to tops NATALIE ZFAT once was a shopping center, but a new project that will have high-rises bearing words such as “Dreamer” and “Epic.” WEB PRODUCTION containing 950 apartments and condos, a 308-room hotel and 190,000 Sol Angeles also offers sweats, sundresses, hoodies, swim shorts and MORGAN WESSLER CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR square feet of commercial space was recently approved by the Los Ange- polo shirts. Core retail price points range from $70 to $180. LOUISE DAMBERG les City Council. —Andrew Asch DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING TERRY MARTINEZ SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE AMY VALENCIA TRADE SHOW REPORT ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE LYNNE KASCH BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT full days of appointments with buyers on Tuesday and Wednesday. MOLLY RHODES LA Majors Continued from page 1 “April is not usually a huge market,” he said. “I’m more comfortable SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST ASHLEY KOHUT also did business in the building’s fifth- and eighth-floor showrooms. at my place. It showcases our company at its best.” ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS Buyers from Dillard’s, TJX Companies, Stein Mart, Nordstrom, Pa- Showroom owners said the CMC building is changing as well as the CHRIS MARTIN cific Sunwear, Zumiez, Tilly’s and Stitch Fix visited the market. rules of the market, said Ally Hicks, president of the 2253 Apparel Group, RACHEL MARTINEZ SALES ASSISTANT With the CMC undergoing a $170-million renovation, several show- which exhibited brands Celebrity Pink and denim styles for the Kendall PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY rooms have moved recently. One of those was Sharon Koshet Sales, which + Kylie brand. CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE moved from the A building and reopened right before the market in a tem- In the past, majors were known for making orders with delivery dates JEFFERY YOUNGER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES porary showroom in Suite B557. scheduled 90 days to 120 days out. In the & RESOURCE SECTION JUNE ESPINO Koshet took the inconvenience of mov- past year, more major retailers are asking PRODUCTION MANAGER ing in stride, noting her temporary show- for orders with delivery dates of 28 to 42 KENDALL IN room offered pretty much the same square days out. “Coming off of a tough holiday EDITORIAL DESIGNER footage as her former space and all of her season, people are in a place where they JOHN FREEMAN FISH FINANCE customers found her. She exhibited brands have to sell the right inventory at the right DAVID MARTINEZ including Mesmerize, Rain + Rose and time,” Hicks said. CREDIT MANAGER Vintage Concept. Alison Budow of the Alison Showroom RITA O’CONNOR PUBLISHED BY While moving was challenging, she in Suite A853 said the job of the sales rep- TLM PUBLISHING INC. was upbeat about the new amenities be- resentative and the showroom owner has APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: ing offered by the building. “People are become more complex. “Gone are the days California Apparel News Waterwear going to be talking about Los Angeles where you’d say, “This is a cute line, I’m Decorated again,” she said. going to sell it,’” Budow said. EXECUTIVE OFFICE Some vendors said they believed that Sales representatives have to help make California Market Center buyer traffic was lighter than in past the brands more exclusive and more nov- 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 years. One of the reasons was that sev- Debbie Beltran introduced the Lilah Wilde brand at LA Majors el, said Patricia Welman, director of mer- (213) 627-3737 eral showroom occupants have left for chandising and sales for 3 Girls Clothing, Fax (213) 623-5707 Classified Advertising Fax other buildings. which was exhibiting at the Alison Showroom. “You have to be a part- (213) 623-1515 Veteran exhibitor YMI Jeans decided not to get a temporary space ner from a design level,” she said. www.apparelnews.net [email protected] during this market, which was the first time in 18 years the brand did not The LA Majors Market was also a place to introduce new brands. Debbie show at the building, said David Vered, YMI’s president. Beltran introduced the better juniors brand Lilah Wilde with its hoodies, tops After so many years exhibiting at the CMC, he wanted to try a new and mini-skirts at the T&A Showroom on the building’s fourth floor. approach. So he showed his brands, which include YMI Jeans, Royalty Beltran also felt the market is changing, “It’s not like back in the day for Me, California Vintage and Secrets With Love, at the company’s when buyers would order trends right off the bat,” she said. “They are very large headquarters in Los Angeles’ Boyle Heights area. Vered described conscious of what the customer wants. It’s great. It keeps me focused.” ●

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