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ECHOES of LITTLE SAIGON VIETNAMESE IMMIGRATION and the CHANGING FACE of ARLINGTON by Kim A

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ECHOES of LITTLE SAIGON VIETNAMESE IMMIGRATION and the CHANGING FACE of ARLINGTON by Kim A ECHOES OF LITTLE SAIGON VIETNAMESE IMMIGRATION AND THE CHANGING FACE OF ARLINGTON By Kim A. O’Connell Dedicated to the memory of Nguyen Ngoc Bich Author, educator, and friend Rebirth Spring goes, and the hundred flowers. Spring comes, and the hundred flowers. My eyes watch things passing, My head fills with years. But when spring has gone not all the flowers follow. Last night a plum branch blossomed beside my door. By Man Giac Translated from the original Vietnamese by Nguyen Ngoc Bich, with W. S. Merwin, Reprinted from A Thousand Years of Vietnamese Poetry (Alfred A. Knopf, 1975) 1 1 FOREWORD Forty years seems like a long time but, in While reflecting upon my journey to one’s life, it’s the blink of an eye. It’s more the U.S., I count my blessings for many than enough time to transform a community, achievements, my own and those of my family, both culturally and economically. friends, and fellow Vietnamese. I am proud Within our first six months in the United of the fact that my family, along with other States, my parents travelled to the major Vietnamese families, took part in building cities but, ultimately, they decided to settle the legacy and bringing diversity to Arlington in Northern Virginia. I still remember when County. Most importantly, as Vietnamese my parents opened our grocery store, Mekong immigrants, we contributed to the academic Center, situated across from where Clarendon and economic development of Arlington as Metro is today on Wilson Boulevard in well as the United States of America. Arlington. Mekong Center opened on January I thank the Arlingtonians and the 2, 1976, and was the fourth Vietnamese store American people who welcomed the opened on this strip. It was on that day that Vietnamese immigrants. Because of their I took on the responsibility of caring for my openness to diversity, transformation three younger siblings at the ages of one, was possible. The blend of cultures and three, and seven, while my parents and older traditions is what makes the United States siblings were working at the store. I was ten. a unique nation. I can’t thank my parents Arlington was then dotted with dull and others of their generation enough for warehouses and old buildings and was a creating a vibrant Vietnamese community predominantly white area. The rent to lease in the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, paving the way commercial properties was cheap — in for the future generations to follow. the lower teens or less per square foot. As Echoes of Little Saigon, written by Kim more Vietnamese businesses opened, the O’Connell, provides a snapshot of these Clarendon corridor soon became known as moments in time, while preserving the history “Little Saigon.” While adopting the American of Arlington County. culture, our parents emphasized preserving Vietnamese traditions. Arlington County Lieu Nguyen eased this transition by acknowledging both Mekong Center Family cultures and traditions as equal. June 2016 2 2 Composite photo illustration; photos by Michael Horsley I INTRODUCTION Throughout its history, Arlington, Virginia, for immigrants, Arlington is frequently has always been a place of growth and ranked among the most diverse cities in the opportunity. But to the Vietnamese fleeing nation (although technically it’s a county, their country after the end of the Vietnam not a city). Within the Commonwealth of War, Arlington was even more than that: It A panoramic view of Virginia, Arlington is ranked second only to Wilson Boulevard, felt like salvation, a place for refugees to once when it was known its neighbor Fairfax County in terms of the again call home. informally as “Little number of native languages spoken in its The history of Vietnamese immigration Saigon,” in 1987. public schools. to Arlington is, like the history of the county But the county’s celebrated diversity itself, closely tied to that of Washington, owes much to a short-lived period in the D.C. Once a part of the capital city (the area relatively recent past, when successive waves of the original “diamond” south and west of of Vietnamese immigrants established a the Potomac River), Arlington County was thriving commercial enclave in Arlington retroceded to the Commonwealth of Virginia — including grocery stores, gift shops, and in 1847. For decades following, the county restaurants — that was known informally (known as Alexandria County until 1920) as Little Saigon. In addition to providing was mostly just a sleepy province of farms Vietnamese immigrants with a means for self- and some modest homes. This all began to sufficiency in a new land, Arlington’s Little change between World War I and the New Saigon paved the way for other immigrant Deal era, when Arlington became a “streetcar groups to settle here, transforming the face suburb” of the nation’s capital, and leafy of the county and the Commonwealth. new neighborhoods of bungalows, colonials, This booklet tells that story. Viewed and Cape Cods sprang up all over the one way, it is a story with a beginning, county. Once the Pentagon was completed middle, and end: Within a finite period, the “I understood in Arlington in 1943, the door swung wide Vietnamese arrived, they worked and lived that every day open for a postwar influx of federal workers, in or near Arlington, and they largely moved was another day setting in motion the rapid urbanization that on, as the new Metrorail system, rising that you never characterized Arlington in the latter half of rents, and development projects gradually knew what was the 20th century. displaced Little Saigon. And yet Little Saigon going to happen Today, this small county of 26 square is more than just a bygone business district; to you next.” miles has a unique and important story all NET GOLDSCHMIDT, it encompasses the story of the plight of its own. Widely recognized as a thriving former Vietnamese refugees, as well as their determination and urban center, a leader in transportation and refugee resourcefulness, and their need to hold onto commerce, and a welcoming environment traditions. 1 3 As time has passed, and as immigration Vietnamese immigrants, which are now remains front-page news, there has been available at the Arlington Central Library’s increasing recognition of the significance Center for Local History. (Unless otherwise of Arlington’s Little Saigon as an important noted, quotes from Vietnamese immigrants part not just of Virginia’s immigration history, are taken from these oral histories, albeit in but of the nation’s as a whole. This booklet edited form.) It is hoped that these efforts is part of a multifaceted effort to preserve will not only commemorate an important Vietnamese heritage in Arlington, including part of the past, but create context for the a new collection of oral histories from local ever-unfolding present and future. II POISED FOR GROWTH: IMMIGRATION AND ARLINGTON BEFORE 1975 Arlington Public Library / Center for Local History As it evolved from being a rural community, Wilson Boulevard in for the burgeoning county, called “one of the the 1950s. Throughout Arlington developed along several primary much of the 20th most attractive spots within easy reach of the transit corridors. In the early part of the century, Clarendon business section of Washington” by one early 20th century, interurban trolley lines ferried was Arlington’s 20th-century publication. Major department “downtown.” commuters in and out of Washington, stores, including Sears and J.C. Penney, replacing the late 19th-century streetcar opened there, drawing shoppers from miles system. Two main trolley lines converged in around. It was (and still is) the crossroads the Clarendon neighborhood, which had been for three important county roads: Wilson, named and dedicated in 1900 (“Clarendon” Clarendon, and Washington boulevards. and “Arlington” are both classic names harking This same route would later form the back to the old sod of England; “Arlington” path for the new Metro subway system, was the name of the stately home of Robert which came into being in the 1970s and E. Lee and his family, located at the county’s sent trains running east-west through the center). As a transportation hub, Clarendon North Arlington hubs of Rosslyn, Court quickly became the unofficial “downtown” House, Clarendon, and Ballston (as well as 4 2 along the north-south route from Rosslyn down to Ronald Reagan National Airport). With roots in early 20th century planning and transportation, the Metro, Wilson Boulevard, and the Clarendon business district would unexpectedly come together in the development of Little Saigon. So would changing national attitudes and policies about immigration. A NATION OF IMMIGRANTS To a certain extent, the United States has always been a nation of immigrants — welcoming “the huddled masses yearning to breathe free,” as the Statue of Liberty proclaims. But for most of American history, those immigrants have been Yoichi Okamoto / LBJ Library almost uniformly white and European, with the exception of African Americans President Lyndon As the nation went, so did Virginia. brought here as slaves before the Civil War. B. Johnson signing According to the 1960 Census, more than the Immigration and Late 19th-century exclusion laws, which put Nationality Act of 94% of Arlingtonians were white, 5.26% were a quota on the number of immigrants from 1965 in a ceremony African American, and only 0.26% of the certain countries, were largely a response to at the Statue of Liberty. He is flanked local population was Asian (only about 425 the first major wave of Asian immigration — by Sen. Ted Kennedy people out of the total population of 163,401 the influx of Chinese to California to seek and Robert Kennedy, in 1960 Arlington). their fortunes in the Gold Rush or to find who championed the bill, along with other However, this would all change — and work with farms, mills, and the growing dignitaries.
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