The Power 30 PRESENTED BY 18 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 POWER 30 WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU POWER 30 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 19

the country’s biggest magazine publisher, sustainability. “As an Australian-owned announced it will close eight of its brands brand we enjoy certain privileges of the – including Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and land and environment. But these privi- InStyle cementing Vogue Australia as an leges carry responsibilities. We recognise unrivalled voice in fashion. that future generations of Australians will 5 inherit the decisions we make today.” The Power 30 Carolyn Mackenzie Assia Benmedjdoub reveals who made the list of influential fashion traders this year. 6 Forever New MD Dominique Lamb 11 National Retailers Association CEO As managing director of Forever New, Carolyn Mackenzie has forged ahead with It’s no secret retail has been one of the sustainability and international expan- hardest hit categories during COVID-19, Solomon Lew for all retailers moving forward, about sion plans despite COVID-19. “We’re on as lockdowns force retailers to re-engineer 1 Premier Investments chairman how many bricks and mortar stores do we a long-term journey to improve our sus- of L Catterton-backed Seafolly this year; their business. In amidst the structural need given the shift to online,” he says. tainable footprint and we’re looking for- not only did the swimwear giant return changes, Dominique Lamb has emerged As one of Australia’s most influential retail ward to revealing more of what that looks to its owners, but L Catterton bought out as a true leader who understands the impli- power brokers, Solomon Lew has long fea- like this year,” she says. “We will be con- its competitor Jets in the process. “I’d say cations for workplaces and communities. tured in the Power 30 list. This year, he surges Elle Roseby tinuing to expand our international pres- the case for private equity is even stron- This year, the National Retail Association straight to number one. While businesses 4 Country Road MD ence and we’re excited to be able to offer ger because in times like this having pri- (NRA) joined forces with the Palaszczuk face unprecedented challenges in the wake Forever New’s designs to more people vate capital available is certainly of great Government to launch a Domestic of COVID-19, Lew’s Premier Investments Australia has not endured the easiest year in Europe, Asia, and the Middle East,” advantage to the industry,” Ravi Thakran Violence Retailer Support Program. The continues to defy the odds with a forecast on record, commencing with a devastat- she says. The womenswear retailer also told the AFR. initiative assists small to medium busi- record profit for the 2019/2020 financial ing bushfire season and the current coro- quickly responded to customers in lock- nesses in addressing domestic and family year. Powered by strong eCommerce sales, navirus pandemic. For Country Road, a down, launching a courier service to col- violence. “The retail industry has been hit JobKeeper subsidies and aggressive rental brand steeped in sustainability and eth- lect returns from home in April. Camilla Freeman-Topper hard by the COVID-19 pandemic, but it renegotiations, the owner of retail chains ics metrics, it was a time to reconsider its 9 Camilla & Marc co-founder doesn’t stop us caring about the welfare of such as Peter Alexander and Portmans community values and messaging. Elle our team members. In fact, the need for expects its full-year earnings before inter- Roseby took the powerful step of moving Justin Levis It didn’t take long for Australian designer additional resources and support is even est and tax (EBIT) to be between $184.8 from corporate sponsorships such as The 7 Cue Clothing Co. director brand Camilla & Marc to respond to the more critical, with evidence of domestic million and $185.8 million, about an 11% 1 Australian Open to support Indigenous COVID-19 pandemic. By April, the brand and family violence reports increasing due increase on the prior year. An uplift in one programs and initiatives. This was fur- This year, family-owned Cue Clothing had launched a new digital portal featur- to isolation,” she says. of the most uncertain trading periods in front and centre. As winner of The Darwin ther amplified in Country Road’s spring Co. harnessed its onshore manufacturing ing virtual consultations, styling and live recent memory? That’s pole position. Aboriginal Art Fair Foundation’s National campaign Regeneration, which spot- network for a valuable cause: creating PPE streaming sessions. “At a time when the Indigenous Fashion Design Award, Shaw lighted communities in the aftermath of for workers at St Vincent’s Hospital. In a world is in lockdown, creating highly rel- was recognised for producing contempo- Australia’s bushfires. bid to continue supporting its local makers evant and meaningful communications Julie Shaw rary interpretations of Indigenous design. during COVID-19 lockdowns, it consoli- powered by innovation is absolutely key,” 2 MAARA Collective founder Her brand MAARA Collective also gives dated orders instead of crippling vendors Camilla Freeman-Topper says. This was back to the community, bridging the gap through cancellations. Where it produced soon followed by a revamped C&M Sport In a year where the fashion industry between commerce and conscious creativ- 10,000 garments a month for select ranges, line, aimed at providing consumers with started to meaningfully address the ques- ity. As part of her prize, Shaw will receive it would reduce these to 3,000 in order to fashion forward basics and loungewear tion of diversity, Julie Shaw’s creativity sat mentorship and business support as well as ensure cashflow. “One of the advantages styles. The line included oversized hoodies 11 a one year membership to the Australian 4 of local production is flexibility and agil- in brushed fleece and knitted bodysuits – Fashion Council. ity to support smaller runs,” Justin Levis a complement to its tailored and occasion says. “We know this affects our entire sup- wear collections. ply chain and we need to support factories Daniel Agostinelli ­ with cashflow so they can survive this.” 3 Accent Group CEO In addition to supply chain flexibility, the Matt Jensen retailer has maximised digital channels 10 M.J. Bale founder Accent Group CEO Daniel Agostinelli through cross-border trade and video styl- still remembers the day he had to shut 500 ing sessions for consumers. In an Australian menswear first, M.J. stores and stand down 5000 staff across Bale is set to be 100% carbon neutral by Australia and New Zealand in late March. Edwina McCann the end of 2021. The 11-year-old mens- But as the COVID-19 pandemic forced 5 Vogue editor-in-chief Ravi Thakran wear brand, which operates over 50 stores Vanessa Brennan retailers to lockdown globally, it wasn’t 8 L Catterton Asia chairman across Australia, is working on a series of 12 Michael Hill chief brand and long before Agostinelli and his team fired Edwina McCann has been the editor-in- emission reduction strategies to reduce strategy officer up their omnichannel armoury. Dark chief of Vogue Australia since 2012 and Private equity has come under intense its carbon footprint. Scientist Andrew stores allowed the group’s store-based is responsible for the Vogue brand across scrutiny this year, following the demise of Moore of Life Cycle Logic has begun a When it comes to the jewellery category, inventory to fulfil online orders until print, digital and social media platforms. several PE-backed fashion retailers includ- formal carbon footprint assessment of the in-store fittings have long been considered stores re-opened. Online sales reached As consumer fashion magazines consoli- ing Seafolly, The PAS Group, Colette by entire organisation, including M.J. Bale’s critical to customer satisfaction. Michael between $800,000 and $1.1 million per date in Australia, McCann has contin- Colette Hayman and Tigerlily. While extended ecosystem of partners and sup- Hill rose to the challenge of social distanc- day in the last two weeks of April, com- ued to maintain relevance through online debate rages around the large debt bur- pliers. The assessment will be completed ing in 2020 with a range of digital offer- pared to an average of $250,000 prior to and offline activations including Vogue den attributed to PE acquisitions, one in early 2021, then independently audited. ings, including its ‘Virtual Ring Try-On’ the shutdown. “It was a seismic shift and it Fashion’s Night Out and Vogue Fashion thing is clear: these players hold power. Matt Jensen takes out a Power 30 posi- feature and ‘Virtual Personal Jewellery’ 2 continues today, which is the new concern Relief. It comes as Bauer Media Australia, This was no clearer than after the collapse tion for his unwavering commitment to appointments. Some 22,000 customers 20 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 POWER 30 WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU POWER 30 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 21

utilised the former, while virtual appoint- this year when H&M reached out to Marilena Madlener of education programs, industry partner- ments gave users access to expert advi- Australian activewear brand P.E Nation 19 Scanlan Theodore ships and an extensive industry survey sors in multiple language options includ- for its latest designer collaboration range. production manager targeting C-Suite executives. The survey ing Mandarin and Hindi. For Vanessa Launched worldwide on March 5, the found the apparel and fashion industry Brennan, these touchpoints will be essen- collection was not only an Australian- It’s one of the most luxurious brands in crisis mode, with 75-80% of compa- tial moving forward. “We’re always look- first but a landmark moment in sustain- in Australian fashion but as this year nies agreeing or strongly agreeing to being ing for unique and exciting ways to engage ability. It included 30 pieces with sus- proved, Scanlan Theodore is also one of negatively impacted by COVID-19. CEO and connect with our Michael Hill com- tainability credentials such as organic the most agile and community-minded. Leila Naja Hibri used the findings to 21 munity. Choosing jewellery is so personal fibres and fabrics. With P.E Nation’s The designer womenswear brand repur- develop a recovery blueprint. “The imme- and we want to provide the highest qual- annual revenue in excess of $20 million, posed its Fiji factories amid the COVID- diate and unprecedented impact of this ity customer service at every touchpoint – the brand partnership elevated its foot- 19 pandemic, using its facilities to cre- crisis has been immensely impactful on whether it be digitally or in-store.” print globally. “You can’t get more global ate urgently required personal protective our industry and a large ecosystem that it than this,” Edwards says. equipment. Marilena Madlener has been sustains,” she says. “The silver lining is that integral to the brand’s production power, we are being forced to rethink the way we Ian Bailey a key leader in establishing its Fiji man- do things; from sourcing and manufactur- 13 Kmart Australia MD Lisa Rogers ufacturing plant to ensure quality and ing to selling and consuming.” 15 Cotton On Kids GM efficiency. Her strengths extend to sup- Discount department store Kmart weath- 17 ply chain management, having reduced ered a surge of demand in 2020, as cus- In 2005, Cotton On Group opened its company costs across all raw materials by Debra Wittner tomers stocked up on homewares and first kidswear store in Knox, Australia. 50% through sourcing and cross costing 22 Wittner founder basics in lockdown. In fact, it was forced Fast forward to its 15th anniversary this Kim Kidd against new suppliers. to launch a virtual queue to access its year, and Cotton On Kids is available in 17 Honey Birdette CEO When it comes to making a greener website in April, after customers crashed 19 countries and has created landmark impact in fashion footwear retailing, the site with coronavirus shopping. This changes through its support of Cotton Newly appointed Honey Birdette CEO Debra Wittner is top of mind. Wittner was soon met with a series of innovative On Foundation. Through its customers, Kim Kidd has wasted no time in revealing has made packaging and product devel- strategies from Ian Bailey, including the it has sold 2.5 million bottles of water her vision for the intimate apparel retailer opment a key part of the brand’s sustain- launch of dark stores to the rollout of and 4.5 million tote bags to support – the world’s the limit. Following on ability journey, with a series of back-end its first K hub sites in regional Victoria. education programs across 24 schools in from a boom in eCommerce sales during and consumer facing initiatives. With the Approximately 92 Target stores will be South Africa, Thailand and Australia. COVID-19, Kidd is powering through an product journey, Wittner has joined the the Catch team collaborating with the converted in K hub stores, which mir- Fresh to the role of GM, Rogers is no omnichannel vision for 2020/21. “Before Leather Working Group and explored external creative team remotely. The cam- ror smaller neighbourhood sites aimed at stranger to building success within COVID, our business is probably split materials made from recyclable bottles. paign was shot in Queensland while the convenience and community. the Group. Since joining the business, about 40% digital sales 60% retail. Since In the packaging, it is banning and phas- agency’s creative team and Catch, both she has held multiple roles including COVID it’s been a bit more 60/40 split ing out all plastics with the introduction based in Melbourne, provided real-time national brand manager and national even when retail reopened. We know that of a new Eco-Shoebox. “Our commitment feedback to the live footage for three full Pip Edwards retail manager, as well as brand-specific reaching more people is going to be pos- to the environment reaches beyond the days. “Like the rest of society, COVID 14 P.E Nation co-founder positions at Cotton On and Rubi. sible through digital and we know that’s realm of manufacturing and production. has presented its fair share of challenges,” where our focus and our strategy is going to Being sustainable means we must cultivate Gracie says. “It has created an environ- You know you’ve made it when one lie. We have a digital-only team that we’re a work environment and brand ethos cen- ment where everything changes rapidly of the biggest retailers in the world Madeline George building up now so it’ll be about reaching 20 tred on good environmental practices.” from day to day and we never know what comes knocking. That’s what happened 16 Boohoo country manager new markets, having relevant marketing will be coming next. It has forced us to be and content and really trying to get Honey Guy Russo flexible in our approach across many dif- Having a dedicated country manager Birdette known more worldwide.” 20 Scentre Group board member Ryan Gracie ferent areas.” has proved vital for Boohoo, with its 23 Catch CMO Australian arm successfully pivoting to He was revered as the “Kmart turn- cater for consumers working remotely. Nigel Chadwick around king”, responsible for leading the As Melbourne entered into its second lock- Alex Perry Country manager Madeline George 18 Myer CFO Wesfarmers’ owned department store to down this year, retailers and eCommerce 24 Designer said the eCommerce giant has seen become one of the largest and most profit- businesses had their plans thrown astray. 14 a 94% spike in loungewear sales and While Myer hasn’t had the easiest year, able in Australia. He’s back in the fashion That didn’t stop Ryan Gracie from launch- Australian fashion designer Alex Perry 130% increase in athleisure year on Nigel Chadwick achieved a remarkable retail game with a recent appointment to ing Catch’s biggest campaign to date. The knows the power of being fashionably year, with influencer strategies geared feat for the department store. Breathing the Scentre Group board. Scentre Group entire process from pitch to post-produc- early. As COVID-19 upended the lux- to promoting home life. “Usually at room from lenders – and potentially even a chairman Brian Schwartz AM describes tion was done via video conferencing with ury apparel industry, he was quick to this time of year we’d be pushing fes- small net cash win this year. Due to the sig- him as a vital component to its succession announce immediate changes to produc- tival and new season, however with nificant impact of COVID-19 during the planning. “Guy will add significant skills tion and delivery schedules in collabora- the current circumstances we’ve had to second half of the fiscal year, lenders agreed and experience to the Board as a business tion with key clients. Perry reduced the flip our trading on its head and think to wave covenant testing at the end of leader who understands the customer, number of seasons and changed the tim- about what the customer is looking FY2020. Myer also signed a binding term retail and retail property.” 23 ing of 2020 collection drops, adding for right now,” she says. “We are very sheet with its existing lenders to amend and exclusive capsule collections with key fortunate in that these categories are extend its bank facility until August 2022. partners to support top-line sales. “As our always on for us, so we had the stock “Securing this new facility with our exist- Leila Naja Hibri whole industry works tirelessly to react there ready to go, it was just about re- ing lenders is testament to the work that 21 Australian Fashion Council CEO to this ever-changing global crisis, I have shooting this for our homepage and we have undertaken during the past two been very encouraged by many of our then utilising our influencer network years,” he says. “It is particularly pleasing The Australian Fashion Council has been recent partner conversations and the level (globally) to get this seeded out. It’s to have secured this extension to our facili- a tireless gatekeeper to the industry this of transparency, collaboration and quick amazing how quickly you can adapt ties during such an unprecedented time of year, releasing several initiatives to help it thinking in response to the challenges we and move when needed.” economic and social disruption in retail.” survive COVID-19. This includes a series collectively face,” he says. 22 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 POWER 30 WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU

Richard Facioni Those were the words of Shona Joy, as she 25 Alceon Group executive director sent a heartfelt message to the industry reflecting on the hardship and silver lin- When it comes to fashion retail indus- ings thrown up by COVID-19. In the try investors, it doesn’t get bigger than 26 space of three painful days, the wom- Richard Facioni. Facioni is the executive enswear brand had millions of dollars’ director at Alceon Group, which invests worth of orders cancelled by some of its in a wide portfolio of businesses includ- biggest retail partners. But Joy bounced ing Lego, SurfStitch, Ginger & Smart, back, offering loyal stockists a range of Noni B and EziBuy. Always on the hunt marketing and discounting support as for the next acquisition, Facioni believes in well as unleashing a wave of new product a simple investment thesis comprising of pivots. This included its first ever capsule three points. If the brand is viable, he and line of elevated sweats and branded tees, his team can deliver improved sourcing, with a portion of proceeds donated to streamlined cost-of-doing-business and Women Sport Australia. competitive structuring around overheads. “There’s no question that all the hard work we’ve done in creating highly efficient busi- Rozalia Russian nesses has helped us weather this year.” tool for weathering the unexpected 29 Digital entrepreneur challenges presented in 2020. As one of Australia’s largest footwear empires, She’s one of Australia’s most prolific fash- Lee Munro Munro Footwear Group has worked ion influencers – but entrepreneur is a 26 Munro Footwear Group chief hand-in-hand with production partners more apt description of Rozalia Russian. experience officer to navigate inventory hurdles. “I think Her collaborations with the fashion our suppliers in general have been won- industry are strategic and well-planned, What’s the benefit of working for a fam- derful,” Munro says. “We’ve had a lot culminating in a disruptive fashion ily business? Enjoying long-held part- of support from suppliers in terms of launch during COVID-19. Despite falls nerships with suppliers – an essential deferring product or payment terms or in discretionary spending, her capsule shifting production later, even cancel- collection for Atoir sold out on its offi- ling some orders, so we’ve built our sup- cial site in less than 20 minutes. The line, ply side relationships over many years also available on Myer and Stylerunner, and that’s really held us in good stead.” was a pitch perfect range of tonal sweats, trenches and tanks for consumers in lockdown. What was initially intended Michael Gazal as a line of suiting and dresses was 27 Former PVH Australia quickly updated to meet market condi- 29 chairman tions. “In about five weeks, I redesigned the entire collection,” she says, delivering It’s one of the most powerful apparel an immediate hit for consumers seeking groups in the world, with Calvin Klein trend-driven loungewear. and Tommy Hilfiger in its stable. As Australia endured the brutal bushfire season at the start of 2020, PVH Corp Justin Hillberg was also a contributor to the Australian 30 SurfStitch MD bushfire relief efforts. It was all thanks to the PVH Australia chairman at Justin Hillberg understands the power the time Michael Gazal, who was also of personalisation, forging ahead instrumental in building its brands in with a range of CX activations during Australia through Gazal Group. Gazal COVID-19. This includes the launch had a 50/50 joint venture with PVH of a new app, engaging with customers called PVH Brands Australia – which on a highly segmented basis as mobile wholesaled the Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin shopping continues to deliver sales Klein, Van Heusen, Pierre Cardin, Trent growth for the fashion site. “Despite Nathan and Fred Bracks brands. Last the COVID-19 outbreak, we thought year, PVH acquired the Australian busi- it was essential to continue to prioritise ness after successful management by the our plans to engage shoppers through Gazal family. this additional channel. This pandemic has been a catalyst for mobile shopping, making an app all the more important Shona Joy for us.” SurfStitch offers consumers over 28 Designer 300 brands across men’s, women’s and kids fashion. It was the first and only “This year, we celebrate the 20th anni- Australian retailer to offer early access versary of the Shona Joy brand – though to HUF x Pulp Fiction this year, as part not quite in the way we had imagined.” of a strategy to secure exclusive lines. ■ 2843_HU_ragtrader_press_ad_FA2.indd 2 26/8/20 5:42 pm