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Palm Desert: an Architectural Tour Into Modernism

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PALM DESERT: AN ARCHITECTURAL TOUR INTO MODERNISM Written and compiled by Jim West -2016 Typical example of the architectural work of John F. Outcault West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA Top to bottom left then right: Toole House by Rudolph Schindler 1 Odell Ranch House by Carl Hansen 2 E. W. Stewart House by Walter S. White 3 Adrian Pellieter House by Clark, Frey & Chambers 4 Hal Kapp – Ted Smith Office Building by John F. Outcault 5 Palm Desert Sandpiper by William Krisel 6 Credits: 1. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Photographer: Shirley C. Burden; 2. Photographer: Linda Holden Clode; 3. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Photographer: Walter S. White; 4. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara and the Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles. Photographer: Julius Shulman; 5. West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, Ca; 6. Photographer: James Schnepf Special thanks to the following: Jocelyn Gibbs; Karen Prinzmetal; Linda Holden Clode; Merilee Colton; James Schnepf; Volker M. Welter; Historical Society of Palm Desert; City of Palm Desert: Cultural Resources Preservation Committee; Modernism Week. PALM DESERT: AN ARCHITECTURAL TOUR INTO MODERNISM Welcome to Palm Desert … ‘the smartest address in the American desert’. Not always considered so special this area was once called ‘Sand Hole’ by the US Government back in the days of horses and stagecoaches traveling on the nearby Bradshaw Road. Here former agricultural spaces eventually developed into the small community of ‘Palm Village’. Soon after that the nearby resort community of ‘Palm Desert’ was intentionally created around the famous Shadow Mountain Club. The architecture that is represented in this region ranges from ranching/utilitarian to desert modern/relaxation. Design creativity and the introduction of new materials and building systems resulted in structures that celebrated living in the beauty of a desert environment. Many of these homes were originally designed for care free ‘seasonal’ use. First however, it was all about WORK. In 1903 Charles McDonald became the first rancher here. He created a 480 acre ranch where he installed wells and reservoir and made an attempt to grow hops. By 1929 King Gillette of razor blade fame bought the ranch and converted it to growing grapefruit. In 1932 Highway 74 opened after being built on the Palms to Pines trail. This new road provided access to the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains. This opening elevated the importance of this MID VALLEY location which is ‘halfway’ between Palm Springs and Indio. This same road would much later serve a ‘staring’ role in the 1963 filming of the comedy blockbuster It’s A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World. Near this intersection of Highway 74 and Highway 111 a small homestead existed. This 1920s home had its own well and electric power and had a fireplace made of adobe. In 1934 and 1935 it was occupied by an important architect. It is here that the young Swiss architect, Albert Frey lived while he worked on his first important Coachella Valley project. He drove his 1932 Ford convertible from Palm Desert to Palm Springs for the making of the Kocher-Samson Building. In the 1930’s William Johnson, president of American Pipe and Construction Company purchased 320 acres from King Gillette and built 6 homes. He later hired the landscape architect, Charles Gibbs Adams to make a residential area on his land with curved streets where each small house would have mountain views. Adams was famous for designing the Hearst Castle gardens, USC and the streets of Beverly Hills. The basic infrastructure for the area was completed but unfortunately this desert project failed due to the Great Depression. Eventually it was purchased in the 1940’s by the Mollin Investment Company and renamed ‘PALM VILLAGE’. Time to make some houses! From 1942 thru 1944 General Patton maintained a GIGANTIC vehicle pool in an area south of HWY 111 for troops that were in training for desert warfare. It was called the ‘Palm Village Vehicle Pool’ and over 6000 tanks and field artillery passed thru this area. Here officers and soldiers received training on vehicle use and quick repair methods in a desert environment. The weapons, vehicles, and many of the soldiers eventually were disbursed overseas. After this military area was closed and cleared out, this empty desert space was noticed by a group of influential and moneyed ‘players’. Cliff Henderson is the visionary who is credited with creating Palm Desert. Henderson was a nationally known individual who among many other things had been the first manager of the Los Angeles Airport and managed the National Air Races. Encouragement and financial backing for creating the city came from Edgar Bergen, Harold Lloyd, Leonard Firestone, Bill and Anthony Stewart (Union Oil), and the brothers Carl, Randall and Phil Henderson among others. This same group owned the famous Welton Beckett designed, streamline moderne, Pan Pacific Auditorium in Los Angeles and had regular contacts with the rich and famous. By 1946 the Palm Desert Corporation was formed and 1,620 acres of pure desert land was purchased south of HWY 111. It is said that they paid $26 per acre. Edith Eddy Ward set herself up as the ‘First Lady’ of real estate for Palm Desert. Tommy Tomson the husband of the Henderson sister Dorris was chosen as the city landscape architect. He created a city plan that continued the concept of curving neighborhood streets that had started in nearby Palm Village. Soon streets and water distribution systems were placed. The main street, El Paseo was planned and developed as an opulent shopping destination with trees optimistically planted a full 10 years before the first store opened. Tomson was famous for his landscapes of Union Station in Los Angeles, the Santa Anita racecourse, Pan Pacific Auditorium and the Los Angeles Park La Brea apartments near LACMA. In 1945 just west of HWY 74 Homesteads were started in the Cahuilla Hills. There were 128, five acre parcels that were offered at $5 a year. A self built ‘cabin’, worth at least $300, added to the site resulted in receiving a deed to the property. One early homesteader was none other than Tommy Tomson. His unusual house was constructed from railroad ties and had modern spider leg structure supports attached. Today Cahuilla Hills are an amazing mix of giant estates and tiny, tiny homes. Meanwhile the famous Shadow Mountain Club was beginning to take shape. Kaufmann, Lippincott, and Eggers were the original architects for this mammoth project. Kaufmann was famous for designing the La Quinta Inn and the Hoover Dam. Shadow Mountain work started in 1946 with the construction of a large 600 foot long lake. Then in 1947 an enormous 350,000 gallon, figure eight shaped, 130 foot long pool was created. This pool still exists today! This pool was photographed by Julius Shulman and was referred to as ‘the good life’ although as is true in much of early Palm Desert architectural history it is incorrectly labeled as ‘Palm Springs’. In 1948 an International Style clubhouse, dining room and pro shop was designed by the architect Tom Douglas. From the beginning the club was filled with celebrities and sports personalities. Shadow Mountain Club had everything: Stables, race track, model train house, high diving, rainbow trout fishing, movies, theater, parties and more. It truly served as the social center for the young community. In 1958 a Gene Sarazen designed golf course was built and in 1961 tennis courts were completed. Eventually cottages and condominiums were also added. This club probably played the largest role in the early development of Palm Desert. Images of Shadow Mountain Club and Club Logo courtesy of Historical Society of Palm Desert Above:Toole House Site Plan and Vintage Image by owner. Below: Interior images by Shirley C. Burden. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. One architect, the internationally famous Rudolph Schindler, was commissioned to design the Maryon Toole House (1946-1948) in Palm Village. Today this is one of the most important preserved modernist structures in the Coachella Valley. It is also the only known remaining Schindler structure in our valley. The reddish-brown local stone masonry house has a soaring and open beam ceiling punctured by a fireplace. Schindler said “the whole is shaded by an ample but lightly poised roof reminiscent of a giant oak leaf”. Schindler called his form of modern architecture “Space architecture” which focused on the design of the interior space. The views from inside this structure reveal spectacular mountains in all directions. Schindler is given credit for the first modernist structure in our valley – The Popenoe Cabin (1922) which once was located in Coachella. The first major commercial structure to be built south of HWY 111 was near the Toole House. It was the 17,000 square foot Desert Magazine building for Randall Henderson. Here the publication, Desert Magazine was produced. This large structure was primarily used for publishing but also included an art gallery, gift shop, and gem shop. The Pueblo Revival building was designed by Harry Williams and was built in 1948. In addition he designed apartments located behind the commercial structure for the employees. Harry Williams is the same architect that designed the 1936 La Plaza in downtown Palm Springs which also incorporated a mixed use approach. He would later form the firm of Williams, Williams, and Williams (with sons Roger and Stewart). Arial photograph is by Walter S. White. Image is bounded by Shadow Mountain Drive on the left and El Paseo Blvd. on the right. The Sun Lodges are clustered at the top and the Firecliff Lodge is aligned along the bottom.
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