Your Customers Can Take PRICE REDUCTION! Home an Instant Photo of Test Gold What They Want in Two Seconds with RS MIZAR! You Won't Doubt the Value of Your Go1d Purchases Again! M-18A $159.95 For the first time ever, you can afford to protect yourself against underkarating by using the latest Jewelry PhotoMaster IV patented technology developed by RS Mizar. Includes: These testers are: • Polaroid's top of the line, fully • Fast, safe, reliable, and portable automatic Spectra Camera, with • Incredibly simple to use, non-destructive timer and control panel for • Accurately determine gold karat values of increased flexibility Jewe1ry PhotoMaster Basic yellow, white green, and red gold • Close-up Lens and Multiple Includes: • Identifies platinum and can distinguish Exposure attachments • Polaroids' top of the line, fully non-gold or gold plate from true karat gold • Custom Jewelry Photo Stand automatic Spectra Camera, with multi-color ring trays and with timer and control panel Don't be unsure! Safeguard your investments and jewelry pads for increased flexibility reputation with confidence. The tester is mainte­ • Rub-on Diamond Transfers for • Close-up Lens and Multiple nance free, portable (battery operated), and has a jewelry design and special Exposure attachments full 2-Year Factory Warranty. *Made in Polaroid Photo Writer Pen • Custom Jewelry Photo Stand U.S.A.* • Polaroid Photo Display Mounts with multi-color ring trays and • Oversized "full system" carrying jewelry pads ET-18 Precisely case ($65 Value) • Rub-on Diamond Transfers $99.00 - determines gold • Jewelry Inventory Control Cards for jewelry design and special with Multiple Price Tags Polaroid Photo Writer Pen karat value of • Newspaper Ad Slicks promoting yellow, white, • Polaroid Photo Display ·' jewelry photo services Mounts green and red " Bonus Mail-in Coupon good for "" Jewelry Inventory Control gold in the lOK, a FREE twin pack of Spectra Cards with Multiple Price 14K and 18K, High Definition Film ($25 Tags instantly. It Value) • Newspaper Ad Slicks promot­ operates in a • Instructional Video and Manuals ing jewelry photo services very similar way ($19.95 Value) • Instructional Manuals totheM18A, but easily fits List Price $349 List Price $249 into your NOW ONLY NOW ONLY pocket! $299 $199 VOLUME 17, NUMBER 5 MAY 1993

HOROLOGICAL

Clock Bushing Tool Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 6 Wes Door 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Henry B. Fried 4 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Bennett's Watch Synchronizer The Agassiz Watch

Robert D. Porter 6 AN ECONOMICAL CLOCK BUSHING TOOL Tools Necessary Fred S. Burckhardt 13 ROCK QUARRY My Old School Pals Arty & Jim .. . in Jewelry Repair Archie B. Perkins 14 TECHNICALLY WATCHES 32 Antique Watch Restoration Partl..XXXIX

Dewey Clark 20 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT Balance Assemblies: Principles of Operation and a Little History, Part JI/

John P. Kenyon 28 THE APPRENTICE CLOCKMAKER Clock Movement Maintenance, Part JI/ Releasing the Power from the Mainspring Waltham Military

Marshall F. Richmond 32 PICKLE BARREL Wristwatches Jewelry Crafting and Repair Necessary Tools: Their Uses and Care 36 Wes Door 35 SHOP TALK Module Retrofitting

Marvin E. Whitney 36 MILITARY TIME Waltham Wristwatch DEPARTMENTS

James Williams 40 CLEANING AND REPAIRING Bulletln Board/12 THE QUAIL CUCKOO CLOCK Association News/19 Part II New Membera/25 Ask Huck/26 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Material Search Network/30 Watchmakers lnstiMe, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy New Products/News In the Trade/43 in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classlfled Ads/44 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/48 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on Advertisers' lndex/48 all national holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX (513) 661-3131. 1 HOROLOGICAL~ M * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE IYl n .~«·ri-, LuJ L_j . ,~ I James H. Broughton Harold J. Herman UD George Daniels Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson Josephine F. Hagans •Hamilton E. Pease AWi Central • Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens P.O. Box 11011 Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue *Deceased Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131

Milton C. Stevens: Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor President's Message Donna Baas: Production Director Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor It has been brought to my attention that there is a need to remind members that we have an A WI Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager Referral Service. Certainly there are many who Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager have participated in this service, and also many Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator others who may not know about it. Robert Macomber, CMC wrote about this program in TECHNICAL EDITORS Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee the January 1989 Horological Times, shortly James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon after this program was approved by the A WI Fred S. Burckhardt John A. Nagle Board ofDirectors. Although we encourage mem­ David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins bers to join this program, it is not mandatory. Charles aeves Robert D. Porter What is the AW! Referral Service? It is Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond a method to allow our name to be used for Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney newcomers moving into our area. We list our Henry B. Fried services and we are on a list which our fellow A WI members may use to refer AWi OFFICERS business to us. Wes Door, CMW: President Why this service? We are a mobile nation. Some of our customers move Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: First Vice President away and some move from faraway places to relocate in our area. It is nice to Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President have a method to recommend someone who can continue to give good profes­ Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary sional service. In the case of those moving into our area, it is nice to acquire these Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI: Treasurer new customers via this referral system. How do you join this service? Ifyou wish to be included in this service, AWi DIRECTORS just fill out the form found on this month's mailing envelope and send it to A WI William Biederman, CMW Central. This form asks for your name, address, phone number, specialty, and Robert F. Bishop, CMEW certificate (if appropriate). A WI has established a file by zip codes. Your name Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Charles Cleves will be added to the list; you will receive confirmation of your participation. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI If a customer asks us for the name of a reliable clockmaker or Gerhard Hutter, CMW watchmaker in their future home area, we simply ask them for their new zip Benjamin Matz, CMW code. Then we contact A WI Central for a listing of A WI members in our John A. Nagle customer's new zip code area and adjacent areas. This list is given to our Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI customer. Of course we must explain that this listing does not carry a Marshall F. Richmond, CMW recommendation, but does signify the name is that of an AWI member who has James E. Williams, CC access to the latest technical information necessary to perform reliable service work. Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director Some of us sell watches, diamonds, and other jewelry as well as doing Tony Knorr: Research & Education Council Director repair work. These new customers can be a real plus for our business. Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Immediate Past Sometimes it's impossible to "get rid" of a customer because they have President moved away. Case in point ... I sold a watch that I keep getting back each time it needs a cell. They feel more secure sending it back to me to change the cell, Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary even though the postage makes it more expensive for my customer than would David LaFleche: General Manager be necessary if we could refer them to someone in their new area. James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Please consider this service. Remember, we have nothing to lose and Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical a good possibility of new customers to gain. Director

Reprinting and reproduction la prohibited with­ out written permission from the American Watch­ makers-Clockmaker• Institute. Copyrlght©1993 by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers In­ ON THE FRONT: These yellow lilies were stitute. photographed by Mr. Harold Bertha of Pearl River, New York.

2 Horological Times/May 1993 RARE OPPORTUNITY by J.D. Olson A.W.I. #22128 He walked into the room and it was a clock collectors dream. Everywhere he looked, there were clocks. Old clocks, old-old clocks, some not so old, but rare, some old and rare. Some large, some small. But all of them were clocks, and wonderful. And there it was. Sitting on a special stand, right in the middle of all those other beautiful clocks. "That's it, That's the one I want!" he exclaimed. "Oh Yes" was the reply. "That one is not for sale. That's a limited edition Atmos," he continued, "I purchased it back in 1984 for only $2,950.00, but I understand it is worth about $6,000.00 today." This proud owner seemed to glow as he continued to explain about his prize. "You see, only 750 were set aside for North America. There is only one of these marvelous 150th Anniversary Atmos Clocks for every 341,000 people in the United States. There are about 36,000 registered clock collectors in the U.S. And over 35,000 of these collectors will never be able to own one of these clocks. "It runs on air!" Boasted the proud owner. "No way!" replied the visitor. "Ol1 yes!" was the quick response. "A temperature change of 1°f lets the Atmos store enough energy for 48 hours. It's called the "Atmos" for "Atmosphere." According to the maker, the energy it takes to light one 15 watt bulb, would be enough to keep 60 million Atmos mechanisms in motion." "Each revolution of the pendulum takes a full sixty seconds. The glass dome is hand blown, And every piece of brass is plated with 24K gold." At this point the visitor can only say "Wow!" "But there's more," exclaims the owner, "according to it's manufacturer, every Atmos began as ten pounds of brass, steel, glass, gold and jewels. There were over 2,000 steps in all, and they were done by hand. It required eight months of patient effort by approximately thirty Swiss craftsmen, many of whom had college degrees in their specialities." By now the visitor is convinced he must have this clock, but the proud owner is just as sure that he will keep it. "It's NOT for sale." In 1928 an engineer by the name of J.L. Reutter devised t11e first Atmos. A clock that incorporates an ingenious feature doing away with the need for manual winding. It derives all the power it needs from minute fluctuations in mom temperature. It has been made in Le Sentier since 1930 and has been a symbol of Swiss watchmaking skill. In 1984 to mark their 150th anniversary, the company introduced a limited edition reproduction of the original Atmos. The few that were made for North America were all sold out several years ago. I have a few of these beautiful pieces of Horological history. They are still in their original, factory sealed cartons, just as they were received from the Swiss factory in 1984. I plan to keep a clock for myself, and have made the rest available to my friends and fellow members of the A.W.I., for a very special price of only $2,200.00, shipping included. I accept Master Card and Visa, so for your 150th Anniversary Limited Edition Atmos, contact J.D. Olson at 1011 Valley River Way in Eugene, Oregon 97401 or phone (503) 344-3445 to take advantage of this rare opportunity. Actual size: 81/z "wide x 131/z "high

May 1993/Horological Times 3 • Bennett's Watch Synchronizer • The Agassiz Watch HENRY B. FRIED CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

I was given your name and balance wheel complete which was Q would appreciate any in­ missing from my watch. formation you could give me con­ "I used a 12s Hamilton 912 cerning the enclosed photo. This balance wheel and a Longines staff photograph is a Bennett's watch which I judiciously turned down on synchronizer, patent applied for the lathe. Along with my original and distributed by Henry Paulson hairspring and roller, the watch & Co. of Chicago, IL. runs like new. Now I will be able to The age of this device could find a case for this watch for total be from 1915 to 1940. My grandfa­ restoration. ther, a watchmaker, used this for "Like Mr. Pirofalo, I was checking repaired watches. The intrigued by the quality of the master watch is on the left, and the movement, and swore to myself watch being checked is on the that this was too good for the junk­ right. My grandfather had a gifted heap. So, an oddysey of about four ear, and would be off a few seconds years is now complete. a week. "My movement number was I am a member of NA WCC 100232, 16j hunting, no identifica­ and also Pittsburgh Chapter #37. I tion anywhere except 'adjusted' and 'Switzerland' and the number. This spent time at the NAWCC Museum give you the number of seconds the is a yellow gold fillagree hand, S.S., Library with the help of the librar­ watch to be timed was out of perfect dial, and Arabic black ian, yet we didn't have success, es­ "synch" with the master. Moving numerals with gold applied dots as pecially with the patent. the regulator until the two watches minute markers. It's truly a fine­ Robert Carlson ran in step for a reasonable time looking movement, same as the Pittsburgh, PA would do the trick. photo in the February issue." The majority of timing Your excellently clear photo devices in the 1930s were those Jim Osborn A shows an early timing marketed by Paulson. Yours ap­ Niland, CA device which will also be pictured pears to be in good condition. in a forthcoming book by this writer Perhaps it should join its twin in on the A WI Museum Collection. our Museum. Henry Paulson, whom I knew personally, was an avid exponent of early timing devices, More on the and yours is one of many he mar­ Agassiz Watch keted. It is a rather simple device Mr. Jim Osborn of Niland, CA and idea. Knowing the rate of the writes: "Thank you for your com­ master watch, one could count the prehensive answer on the Agassiz number of times the watch to be 12.s watch (February '93 issue). The timed went into step with the photo of parts allowed me to posi­ master and again out of step and tively identify the poor photo of a _,. back into it in a given number of movement that I sent to you several minutes. Dividing this by 5 would years ago. Back then I needed a 0 4 Horological Times/May 1993 Attention!Horologists ! It's yours for the asking!

Jules Borel & Co.

Suppliers of Quality Ptoducts to Jewelers and Watchmakers Since 1820

Borel Horological Products

60-page Catalog of Borel Quality Replacement Watch Parts.

t iii! I :;-==::::::r::J:::JUP

•MOVEMENTS •GASKETS •HANDS •CROWNS •SPRING BARS •CASE PARTS •CRYSTALS •BAND PARTS •BATTERIES •TOOLS Please call or send request on your letterhead to. .. & •Jlttrel Jules Borel Co. Order Desk 800/776-6858 1110 Grand Avenue Order FAX Kansas City, MO 64106 800 / 776-6862 Office 816/421-6110 An Economical Clock Bushing Tool

ROBERT D. PORTER CMW (All rights reserved by the author)

igure 1 illustrates a Sessions tween these tapped holes are five drill guide become worn, they can F clock movement from the different size drill guide holes that be drilled out and drill bushings early 1900s. It is typical of many will produce a hole in the clock plate (made from 1/4" diameter oil or American movements found in to allow press fitting the commer­ water hardening drill rod) can be clocks being brought in for repair. cially available metric bushings pressed into the bar. The clamps are The remarkable ability of these some folks use, as follows: made of brass or steel. clocks to run year in and year out Figure 4 shows how the drill without attention also contributes to DRILL# DECIMAL BUSHING (mm) guide is lined up with the original the worn pivot hole condition we 16 0.1770" 4.5 center of the hole before clamping. 29 0.1360" 3.5 find illustrated in Figure 2. 32 0.1160" 3.0 The point on the drill shank can be Some of the problems we 40 0.0980' 2.5 seen in position in Figure 5. The face in bushing worn pivot holes is 47 0.0785" 2.0 clamps are then tightened to hold accurately locating the original the guide in place. pivot position, and then making These five drills will cover My safety glasses are on as sure our drill or reamer does not the majority of sizes needed. Try the a drill press is being used (carefully) "walk" on us while the hole is being drills on scrap brass; reduce the to drill the clock plate in Figure 6. A opened up to fit a new bushing. diameter by stoning, if necessary, to piece of scrap wood is backing up Figure 3 pictures a simple produce a tight-fitting bushing. The the plate. The clock plate must be and economical solution to these shank end of the drills pictured in held securely to prevent it from problems by means of a drill guide Figure 3 have been modified by spinning as the drill breaks through made from a piece of 3/8" square turning an accurately centered 60- the plate, as shown in Figure 7. A steel bar stock about seven inches degree point. As the holes in the larger drill (held in a hand vise) is long. A series of 8-32 tapped holes (#29 tap drill) are spaced an inch apart down the center of the bar for clamp attachment. Centered be-

Figure 2 Figure 4

Figure 1 Figure 3 Figure 5

6 Horological Times/May 1993 CYNTHIA COLVIN Cell Feed Orienta/or Cynthia Colvin was drawn ficient at many jobs within Both her grandmother and Eveready Manufacturing Plant to Eveready Battery Com­ the company. She has her aunt retired from the Bennington, vr pany by prospects of "a been in her current company. Cynthia's spare better-paying job." That position for the past time interests include was 13 years ago. Since three years. Lengthy quilting with the Quiet that time she has had Eveready careers run in Valley Quilting Club. opportunity to become pro- Cynthia's family.

Cynthia Colvin's "battle they move along the line. station" is on the Packaging Keeping batteries on the Assembly Line. Here she right track prevents mis­ maintains a careful and packing and down time and, constant vigil to assure that consequently, assures a Eveready®watch batteries better value to customers. are properly positioned as Cynthia's shift recently

EVEREADY® WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated . EVEREAD'® manufacturing process, a high degree of rechnlcal expertise and people © 1990 Eveready Battery Company, Inc. dedicated to making the difference. used to remove any burr that may drill to be used. Twist drills usually welders and auto body shops) is be formed during the drilling produce a hole that is 0.001 to being used in Figure 12 to press fit operation. 0.0015 inch (0.025 to 0.038mm) the bushing into place from the Figure 8 shows how the drill larger than the measured size. inside surface of the clock plate. guide has been aligned and clamped Figure 9 shows an 0 size combined These pliers have a nearly parallel to the clock plate to drill the pallet countersink and center drill being jaw action and work great for arbor pivot hole. The wing of a clock used to spot the end of the bushing installing bushings. The clamping key is being used as a spacer to material prior to drilling the pivot surfaces should be sanded and keep the guide parallel to the work. hole in Figure 10. The drill has been polished before use. I prefer .to make my own reversed in the lathe tailstock chuck Figure 13 (next page) is a bushings on a bench lathe from half in Figure 11 and is being used to chart of letter, number, and frac­ hard brass. The bushings are capture the bushing as it is parted tional drill sizes to help you know turned to a diameter 0.002 to 0.0025 from the stock. what sizes are available for making inch (0.05 to 0.06mm) larger than A pair of adjustabl~ sheet and fitting new bushings. And the actual measured diameter of the metal clamping pliers (used by remember, please, ALWAYS wear safety glasses and take proper pN!cautions when doing any kind of machining work!!

Figure 6 Figure 9 Figure 11

Figure 7

Figure 8 Figure 10 Figure 12

8 Horological Times/May 1993 BUILD PROFITS- REPLACE BATTERIES! Battery changing draws traffic while increasing revenue. DRS is your battery support center.

CASE BACK CLOSER Metal body, nylon dies. CRY-905 $49.50 EVEREADY WATCH BATTERY ANALYZER BATTERY CLAMP ASSORTMENT Quickly tests batteries without BCA (25 pc.) $12.50 opening the case. $54.50 BATTERY CLAMP SCREW ASST. BCSA (100 pc.) $16.50

UNIVERSAL CASE VISE C0-595 $12.50 UNIVERSAL CASE WRENCH C0-675 $17.50

COMPLETE BATTERY CHANGING START-UP SYSTEM Includes: • 40 Drawer organizer with labels • Quick Check • "How to Change a Battery" manual • Complete tool assortment which includes all the tools necessary to change a battery. • 275 of the most popular batteries Ask for our new 7th Edition Price $188.00 Findings, Tools and Dason Ring Catalog and our Watch Tool/Band Catalog.

THE JEWELERS' DEPARTMENT STORE IAiiiliJ~ Toll Free: 800-223-8960 Fax: 800-526-8682 ~illliiiilllJ 56 West 47th St., New York, NY 10036 (212) 819-0470 Fax: (212) 354-2270 CLOCK BUSHING TOOL (Continued from page 8)

LETTER, NUMBER AND FRACTIONAL DRILL SIZES

DRil..L DECIMAL DRILL . DECIMAL SIZE INCH MM SIZE INCH MM 80 0.0135 0.343 36 0.1065 2.705 79 0.0145 0.368 7/64 0.1094 2.779 1 /6l+ 0.0156 0.396 35 o. 1100 2.794 78 0.0160 o. 406 34 0.1110 2.819 77 0.0180 0.457 33 0.1130 2.870 76 0.0200 0.508 32 0. 1160 2.946 75 0.0210 0.533 31 0. 1200 3.048 74 0.0225 0.572 1/8 o. 1250 3.175 73 0.0240 0.610 30 0. 1285 3.264 72 0.0250 0.635 29 o. 1360 3.454 71 0.0260 0.660 28 0.1405 3.569 70 0.0280 0.711 9/64 0.1406 3.571 69 0.0292 0.742 27 0.1440 3.658 68 0.0310 0.787 26 o. 1470 3.734 1/32 0.0312 0.792 25 0.1495 3.797 67 0.0320 0 .. 813 24 0.1520 3.861 66 0.0330 0.838 23 o. 1540 3.912 6~i 0.0350 0.889 5/32 0.1562 3.967 64 0.0360 0.914 22 0.1570 3.988 63 0.0370 0.940 21 0.1590 4.039 62 0.0380 0.965 20 0.1610 4.089 61 0.0390 0.991 19 o. 1660 4.216 60 0.0400 1 .016 18 0 .1695 4.305 59 0.0410 1 .041 11/64 0.1719 4.366 58 0. 0'+20 1.067 17 0.1730 4.394 57 0.0430 1.092 16 o. 1770 4.496 56 0.0465 l. l.81 15 0 .1800 4.572 3/64 0.0469 l.191 14 0.1820 4.623 55 0.0520 1.321 13 0.1850 4.699 54 0.0550 1 .397 3/16 0.1875 4.763 53 0.0595 1.511 12 0 .1890 4.801 1/16 0.0625 1 .588 l1 0.1910 4.851. 52 0.0635 l.613 10 0.1935 4.91.5 51 0.0670 1. 702 9 0. 1960 4.978 50 0.0700 1.778 8 0. 1990 5.055 49 0.0730 1 .854 7 0.2010 5.105 48 0.0760 1.930 13/6l1. 0.2031 5.159 5/64 0.0781 1 .984 6 0.2040 5.182 47 0.0785 1"99'+ 5 0.2055 5.220 '+6 0.0810 2.057 4 0.2090 5.309 45 0.0820 2.083 3 0.2130 5.410 '+4 0.0860 2 .184 7/32 0.2188 5.558 43 0.0890 2.261 2 0.2210 5.613 42 0 .. 0935 2.375 l 0.2280 5.791 3/32 0.0938 2.383 A 0.2340 5. 9'+4 I.+ l 0.0960 2. '+38 15/64 0.2344 5. 95'+ 40 0.0980 2.489 B 0.2380 6.045 39 o .. 0995 2.527 c 0.2420 6 .. 147 38 0.1015 2.578 D 0.2460 6.248 37 0 .1040 2. 6Ll2 1/4 0.2500 6.350

10 Horological Times/May 1993 VACUUM DUSTING SYSTEM The soft bristles of the vacuum brush loosen and vacuum up dust and debris without scratching the case. Vacuum brushes are typically used in watch factories around the world. The vacuum pump is quiet and the foot switch provides vacuum pressure when needed.

For Cleaning Plastic & High Grade Swiss movements.

Finally, a movement cleaning system that cleans both metal and plastic movements. "QUARTZ CLEAN & PLASTICLEAN" have revolutionized the work of hundreds of watchmakers. Movement cleaning no longer requires geartrain disassembly. The high pressure spray and microscopic cleaning action of these powerful solutions, penetrate tiny pivot holes, flushing away dry oils and contaminants. Don't waste valuable time cleaning quartz movements the old fashion way. Discover the "Quartz Clean" Systems and reduce cleaning time to seconds! Call Greg Zanoni at (609) 586- 5088 for more details. BULLETIN C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED S. HALLER 400-DAY CLOCK BOARD Several members have inquired about how to let down the power on the S. Haller 400-Day (Elgin) Clock pictured along A. NEW REQUESTS with a sketch of the back plate. The only way we have figured out is to use your finger as a brake on the escape M. REID MATERIAL ASSORTMENTS wheel to control the power during letting the clock run down Uilis Volpa.to, San Diego, CA, is seeking a copy of the charts with the verge removed. Does anyone have a better way? for an American jewel and balance staff assortment. They were distributed by M. Reid & Sons, Springfield, IL. The assortment number is #20B.

CUENDET: SWISS CUCKOO CLOCK Charles Dyrkacz, Fifield, WI, is seeking a source for spare parts for a Swiss Cuckoo Clock which has the following identification: CUENDET (on the door) Swiss Musical Movement Bayrischer Landler

SWARTZ CLOCK CO. Randel Swartz, Tracy, CA, seeks any information "Bulletin Board" readers might have regarding a Swartz Clock Co. that existed at one time in the United States. Henry Fried located a Swartz & Co. in Chicago, IL in a 1954 guide; however, this firm was not listed as a clock company.

SALEM SHIP'S BELL Wayne West, Rocky Mount, NC, seeks information regard­ ingthe strike mechanism of a Salem Ship's Bell clock which is an 8-day Swiss 7-jewel movement which has stainless steel and brass plates, #2639 is on the barrel plate, and OYM also appears on the plate. I<:- ;/;. - -A

SI s B. RESPONSES T 0 0

~ BRANSON ULTRASONIC 0 CLEANER SCHEMATICS Thanks to Sid Williams, Cedarburg, WI and Kenneth Eaton, Penn Yan, NY for supplying a schematic for the '::J._ J c Branson B-12. Thanks to Mr. Eaton we also have schemat­ • . ' ics for a number of other Branson models. I '

WALTHAM FLOOR CLOCK WEIGHTS • Earl Marshall, Devils Lake, ND, had access to a Waltham Floor Clock Regulator No. 1602 and provided measure­ 0 0 ments and weight information as follows: 1 SI ® 2-1/4" x 10 13 lbs. 2-1/4" x 10 14-1/2 lbs. Also, Dale Stahlhut, 7107 Montana Norte, Austin, TX SCHEMATIC FOR 78731 advises that he makes custom weights to match old L&R MASTER CLEANING MACHINE originals for proper restoration when catalog weigh ts won't Howard Alcorn, Cleveland, OH, is seeking a sche­ do. matic for an L&R Master Cleaning Machine. We have an operators manual but no schematic for this ma­ PIERRE RUECI WATCHES chine. An unidentified reader provided the following information regarding the distributor for Pierre Rueci Watches: Bali Watch (L.A.) Inc. 6MM LATHE CHUCKS 1333 S. Hill Street Ray LaRue, Jr., Clayton, KS, is seeking 6mm chucks Los Angeles, CA 90015 (collets) for an American Watch & Tool Co. Lathe No. Phone (213) 744-0321 179. Chucks fitting the small Geneva pattern lathe, Fax (213) 744-0320 such as the Lorch and Wolf-Jahn, will probably do.

12 Horological Times/May 1993 ROCK QUARRY etttu

My Old School Pals FRED BURCKHARDT Arty& Jim ...

wo of my old watchmaker friends, Jim Nasium place. Then he gave up the mechanicals for the electrics. T and Arty Ficial, came by for lunch the other day. This was understandable, as Arty liked the electronical We went to the same watchmaking school. In fact, that type stuff. was the name ofit--Same Watchmaking School. We had After graduation, Jim went to work for a trade gotten out of the service about the same time and came shop. You'll have to remember, this was before timing to realize a decision had to be made whether to get a job machines were very popular, so it was Jim'sjob to true or go to school to learn how to fix watches. and poise every balance wheel. He became well known Jim decided to specialize in repairing fusee in the trade for his adeptness with balances. He was watches, but he could never get the chain back where it even considered to be highly skilled with them. Every­ belonged. Arty didn't want to specialize in anything thing was fine until the advent of the quartz pieces. As until later on when the electric watches hit the market- they became more popular, Jim's work started to slow up. Realizing he would have to make some adjustments, he started to learn how to count the vibrations of quartz crystals. J. KAISE W-12 CLOCK Arty borrowed some money and opened a high­ Louis Swingle, Binghamton, NY, seeks a source for class watch store in a lower class neighborhood. He spare parts for the clock sketched below. never could figure out why business was slow. He lost a lot of sales as people were looking for lower priced watches, but it never did register with him that maybe he should start carrying some. It wasn't long before he went into bankruptcy. This was before bankruptcy was popular, and it took a long time for him to get over it. Then he realized he had some experience that others didn't have. Rather than waste his ill-gotten talents, he opened a "going out of business" store. Now he owns a whole string of"Arty's Going Out of Business Shops." After lunch, we decided to go visit our old Alma Mater. We were disappointed in finding the school had closed. It must have been several hours that we stood there and talked about all the watchmakers and clockmakers we knew who had gone to school there. When we got ready to leave, Jim said, "You know, PORTESCAP VClO wouldn't it be great if we were still young and were just Wit Jarochowski, Okmulgee, OK, is seeking a graduating from school? Think of the opportunity the schmematic and operators manual for a Portescap young people have nowadays." VClO. "You're right," said Arty. "Now if we could only convince them!" Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do you need information about one of this month's responses? D If so, send a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope and your request to: "Bulletin Board," c/o AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. D

May 1993/Horological Times 13 Technically ©1993 WATCHES

Antique Watch Restoration© 1993 PartLXXXIX ARCHIE 8. PERKINS CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author) Making a Duplex Watch Balance Staff

hen restoring duplex watches, it is quite com­ milling cutter for the slot and have a slide rest and W mon to find that the balance staff is damaged milling attachment for using the milling cutter to cut and needs to be replaced. Since duplex staffs cannot be the slot. obtained, one must make the replacement balance staff. Figure 1, View A shows an edge view of a New Making the Slot Milling Cutter Blank England Watch Company's balance wheel and balance Figure 2 shows how the slot milling cutter blank is staff. We will make one of these balance staffs for this formed prior to milling the teeth on the cutter. The project. View B, Figure 1 shows a three-dimensional blank is made from high carbon water-hardening drill drawing of the balance wheel and balance staff disas­ rod. The forming tool that is shown in Figure 2 has been sembled. This particular balance staff is of the friction made from an old flat needle file. The teeth have been type. It is frictioned into the wheel from the bottom side ground off of the file for a short distance back from the ofthe wheel; therefore, the hub part of the staffthat goes end of the file. The tool is given the rounded shape at its into the hole in the wheel is slightly tapered. The upper end and then is relieved at its end and side as shown by end of the hub is about .03mm smaller than the lower dotted lines in the drawing. end of the hub. This duplex staff has a complication not The thickness of the disc formed on the cutter found on other balance staffs. This staffrequires that a blank would depend on how wide the slot needs to be in small slot be milled in the roller shoulder of the staff for the new staff. The end of the disc is faced flat with a the locking teeth of the escape wheel to pass through regular diamond-shaped graver which has a straight­ from one side of the staff to the other side. cutting edge. The diameter of the disc on the cutter To make this balance staff and do it in the most blank would be determined by the length of slot needed acceptable manner, one would need to make the special in the balance staff. NOTE: For our project, the diam­ eter of the cutter blank will be 1.30mm and the cutter FIGURE 1 will have 12 teeth. The thickness of the cutter will be .18mm.

FIGURE 2 A

~' ~I

14 Horological Times/May 1993 Making the Teeth on the cutter, the cutter is hardened and tempered to a light Slot Milling Cutter Blank straw color. Figure 3 shows how the teeth are made on the slot Preparing the Staff Blank milling cutter. The milling cutter blank is held in the for Cutting the Slot headstock of the lathe while the teeth are cut on the The rod selected for the balance staff blank should be blank. The headstock is indexed with the headstock annealed high carbon water hardening drill rod. The index pin in one of the 60 index holes in the end of the diameter of the rod should be about . lmm larger than lathe pulley. NOTE: A 60 hole or notched index plate the diameter of the hub on the old balance staff. This is and an index latch may be used instead, if desired. The angle cutter used to cut the teeth on the slot FIGURE 3 milling cutter should have a 60° angle. The angle cutter is set on center with the lathe center before cutting the teeth on the slot milling cutter. The slot milling cutter should have 12or15 teeth. When the teeth are being cut on the slot milling cutter, one would lower the angle cutter gradually into the blank until the teeth come just to a point. If one chooses to make 12 teeth on the slot milling cutter instead of 15 teeth, the teeth will be longer than if one makes 15 teeth. The more teeth made on a given diameter blank requires that the angle cutter be set more shallow in the blank in order to just point the teeth. Ifwe cut fewer teeth on the same diameter blank with the same angle cutter, the cutter would need to be lowered deeper into the blank in order to cut pointed teeth. Therefore, we would have longer teeth on the slot cutter. When cutting 12 teeth using a 60 index, one would index five divisions each tooth; whereas, when cutting 15 teeth, one would index four divisions each tooth. After the teeth have been cut on the slot milling

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May 1993/Horological Times 15 to allow for fittingthe hub to the hole in the balance after Milling the Slot in the the blank has been hardened and tempered. The slot is Balance Staff Blank milled in the staff blank before the blank is hardened Figure 5 shows the slot milling cutter being used to mill and tempered. Figure 4 shows the drill rod after it has the slot in the balance staff blank. The balance staff been chucked true in the lathe and the roller shoulder blank is held in a chuck in the headstock of the lathe diameter turned down with a graver in preparation for while the slot milling cutter is held in the spindle of the milling the slot. The diameter of the roller shoulder milling attachment, as shown in Figure 5. The head­ should be left about .02mm oversized to allow for finish­ stock holding the blank is locked up with the lathe index ing after the slot has been milled and the blank hard­ pin in a hole in the lathe pulley while the slot is being ened and tempered. milled. The slot milling cutter is first centered up with the point on the balance staff blank. Then, the slot cutter is brought into position over the staff blank and, FIGURE4 while the cutter is turning slowly in the direction of the arrow, the cutter is gradually lowered into the staff blank to cut the slot. The slot should not be cut any deeper than to the center of the blank. If the slot needs to be longer than the cutter will make by just lowering the cutter into the blank, the cutter is moved in the direction needed to lengthen the slot. It is a good idea to make several balance staff blanks and to saw the slots while the slot milling cutter is set up. This will save setting up the cutter if one should spoil a blank while finishing the staff. It is also desirable to have blanks with the slot already milled for future use when the occasion arises. Figure 6 shows how the graver is used to cut the balance staff blank off of the rod after the slot has been milled. After the slotted blanks have been cut off of the rod, they are hardened and tempered.

Hardening the Balance Staff Blanks One of the best and safest ways of holding the blank balance staffs when they are heated for the hardening process is to pack them in charcoal paste in a steel FIGURE 5 container, such as is shown in Figure 7. The wood charcoal is mixed with water to make a thick paste. The charcoal paste must completely cover the staffblanks to prevent them from oxidizing while being heated for hardening. The steel container must be closed with a cover to keep air out of the container. After the blank staffs have been packed in the container, the container

FIGURE 6

16 Horological Times/May 1993 If FIGURE 7 temperature. the blanks were well packed with the charcoal, they should come out of the water clean without any discoloration. Ifthe blanks should come out discolored, the discoloration must be polished off before they are tempered. After the staff blanks have been through the hardening process, they must be checked with a small fine file for hardness. If the file will not bite into the blanks, they are hard. On the other hand, ifthe file does bite into the blanks, the hardening process must be repeated until the blanks resist the teeth of the file.

Tempering the Balance Staff Blanks After the balance staff blanks have been hardened, tested, and cleaned, they are tempered. To temper the blanks, one would place them on top ofsome clean white sand which is in a metal container that can be heated. The container containing the sand and blanks is heated over an alcohol lamp flame until the surface of the blanks turns to first blue with some purple still showing in the blue. When each blank has reached the desired color, it is quickly removed from the sand and placed on a steel or glass plate to cool slowly. This completes the tempering process. is heated over a gas flame until the tube is a full cherry red. The container is kept at this color for a minute or Finishing the Lower End two. Then, the top of the container is removed and the of the Balance Staff contents are dumped quickly into a container of water Next, the balance staffblank is chucked true in the lathe to quench the staffblanks. The water should be at room for making and finishing the lower pivot. The blank is

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May 1993/Horological Times 17 FIGURES FIGURE9

B A

usually chucked by the hub, as shown in Figure 8. end of the staff blank. View A shows the upper pivot However, if the blank staff cannot be made to run true section being turned down prior to turning the pivot. in the wire chuck, it must be cemented true in a cement This section can be left slightly oversized at this time. brass. Then, a graver which has a rounded point is used View B, Figure 10 shows a round pointed graver being to turn the lower pivot. The diameter of the pivot is left used to turn the upper pivot. After the upper pivot has .01 to .02mm oversized to allow for finishing the pivot. been turned, the pivot is shortened with a hard Arkan­ The pivot can be ground to size with a fine sas slip. Then, the jasper stone is used to bring the pivot smooth jasper stone slip which has a rounded corner. to size. After this, the pivot is finished with a steel The length of the pivot is gotten by grinding off the burnisher and a boxwood slip with LindeA or diamantine. excess length with a fine hard Arkansas stone slip and The next operation is to make the oil cut as shown in then using the jasper stone to smooth the end of the ViewC,Figure 10. Thelastoperationbeforeunchucking pivot. Next, the pivot is burnished with a steel bur­ the staff is to turn the hub down to fit the hole in the nisher and polished with a boxwood slip and Linde A or balance wheel. Then, the staff is unchucked and tried in diamantine. the watch for fit and any necessary alterations are made. When the staff fits correctly, it is staked into the Chucking the Blank balance wheel. After this, the wheel is trued and poised. for Finishing its Upper End Repairing the duplex escapement will continue Figure 9 shows two different methods that can be used next month. to chuck the partially finished staff blank for finishing D its upper end. View A shows the blank being held by the roller shoulder in a split wire chuck. This method of holding the blank is acceptable ifthe blank can be made FIGURE 10 to run absolutely true. If the blank cannot be made to run true by this method, the blank would need to be cemented up in a cement brass as shown in View B, Figure 9. The finished lower pivot fits in a sharp female center in the cement brass to center up the lower end of the staff. The female center in the cement brass and the staff blank should be cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to cementing up the staff blank. Enough shellac should be applied so it will build up a mass of shellac on the hub of the blank as shown. This gives more support to the blank. The excess shellacis removed with a graver when one is ready to turn the hub to fit the hole in the balance wheel. The cement brass is heated with an alcohol lamp to melt the shellac. The end of the blank is centered up with a pegwood stick over the "T" rest while the shellac is melted. The pegwood is used to hold the blank true while the shellac is cooling. The lathe is turning slowly during this operation. c Finishing the Upper End of the Staff Blank Figure 10 shows the procedure for finishing the upper

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NEW JERSEY Upcoming Conventions The Watchmakers Association of New Jersey held a meeting on March 9, 1993 featuring Jack Freedman of Superior Watch May 21-23 Texas Watchmakers Association Service, Inc. He demonstrated the water testing machine Sigma Convention, Green Oaks Inn, Ft. Worth, TX. SM8800. He showed the group how to increase sales and traffic with this equipment. June 4-6 North Carolina Watchmakers Association The WANJ will hold their 54th Dinner-Dance on Convention, Holiday Inn North, Raleigh, NC. November 6, 1993 at George's Restaurant in Secaucus, NJ. A WI Speakers: James Broughton, Henry Fried, and Roy Hovey.

July 23-25 Watchmakers Association of Ohio NEW YORK Convention, Park Hotel, Columbus, OH. At their February 1, 1993 meeting, the Horological Society of A WJ Speaker: Joseph Cerullo. New York presented an AWi slide program entitled "Bench Tips." It was filled with a great number of inventive ideas helpful October 1-3 New York Watchmakers Association to the watch repairer. Convention, Holiday Inn, Seneca Falls­ Although the presentation needs no embellishment, the Waterloo, NY. A WI Speaker: Fred Burckhardt. Horological Society of New York programmers tacked on an October 8-10 Illinois State Watchmakers Convention, additional feature which produced a very exciting evening. They Clock Tower Inn, Rockford, IL. A WI Speakers: invited Bernhard Stoeber, Technical Service Manager for North Alice Carpenter and Buddy Carpenter. AmericanWatchCorp.,toprovidecommentaryatthefilm'send. He produced an exceptionally fine analysis of the film's contents October 23-25 Florida State Watchmakers Association and added many tips of his own. Convention, Ramada Hotel Resort, West Palm D Beach, FL. A WI Speaker: Ewell Hartman.

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May 1993/Horological Times 19 Clocks Inside & Out By Dewey Clark

Balance Assemblies: Principles of Operation and a Little History

Part III: Balances Using Alloys

uring the last half of the 19th century a great Middle temperature error results from a mis­ D deal ofeffort was directed at reducing the middle match in the shape of the curves formed by the change temperature error through the use of mechanical af­ in strength of steel balance springs across temperature fixes to the Earnshaw balance. However, it became and the effective diameter of the balance across tem­ obvious that there was a limit to the extent to which perature. One of Dr. Guillaume's solutions involved an mechanical solutions could reduce the effects of tem­ alloy used in the place of unalloyed steel in the bimetal­ perature on the rate of balance-controlled timekeepers. lic balance. This alloy enabled the temperature re­ The search for eliminating rate differences of sponse curve of the balance to more closely match the portable timepieces due to temperature change ulti­ temperature response curve of the steel balance spring. mately led to the creation of alloys for use in balance The other solution developed by Guillaume was to springs and balances. Various materials were used for create an alloy for balance springs, Elinvar, which did balance springs in the very early part of the 1800s, not change strength across temperature, eliminating including glass, gold, and hardened and unhardened the need for a bimetallic balance. steel. The standard blue steel balance spring was uni­ versally adopted as superior to the unhardened steel Guillaume'sbalance.AsDirectoroftheinter­ balance springs while gold and glass did not offer great nationalBureau ofWeightsandMeasures, Dr. Guillaume advantages over hardened steel springs. was interested in problems concerning accurate stan­ Around 1875, palladium alloy balance springs dards for measurement, includingimprovingthe stabil­ became popular in watches and chronometers. This ity of the rate of balance-controlled timekeepers. marked the first commercial effort to use alloys in the In 1896, Dr. Guillaume developed a chromium balance assembly to combat the effects of temperature. steel alloy that, when used in place of steel in the The elastic strength of palladium alloy balance springs is not as sensitive to temperature as hardened steel, and the alloy is anti-magnetic and rustproof. The palladium balance spring could be fitted to any Earnshaw balance or balance fitted with an affix.

Alloys for balances and balance springs. Toward the end of the 19th century, the science of materials and the understanding of physics evolved rapidly. The promise of palladium, coupled with this evolution of materials science led to efforts to employ alloys to eliminate middle temperature errors from Photo 1. balances. Two approaches to accomplish this were ulti­ Guillaume balance mately developed and became standard designs during from a Nardin the 20th century. Both ofthese approaches were created chronometer, by Dr. Charles Edouard Guillaume. ca. 1942.

20 Horological Times/May 1993 construction of the standard bimetallic balance, re­ sulted in a temperature response curve that almost precisely matched the temperature response curve of a steel balance spring. It is this use of this alloy that defines the Guillaume balance. Dittisheim used a Guillaume balance made to look like the standard split rim bimetallic balance. Dr. Guillaume designed a balance employing High quality round mineral glass the chromium alloy, used extensively by Nardin (Photo crystals with polished edge. 1), in which the free arms of the split rim were short­ Thickness: ened. This was done by splitting the balance at right angles to the cross arm instead of near the cross arm. 0.8mm ladies & 1.0mm for gents The shorter free arms were less susceptible to the effects of centrifugal force. XTL-50 This balance design required minimal changes This 50-pc assortment contains one each of the to the process of production of balances, other than most popular sizes from changing the formula for the steel. Perhaps this is the 17mm to 32mm in a clear reason why Nardin continued to use this balance into durable plastic box. For only the 1980s. In addition, this balance was used by Seiko [Japan] (Photo 2), Glasshutte [Germany] (Photo 3), $34.95

XTL-100 Exceptional value for this 100-pc assortment of high-quality crystals. Contains 1 of each from 12mm to 36mm in a clear durable plastic box. AT THIS LOW, LOW PRICE OF $59 .95 ! ! CALL, Photo 2. Guillaume balance from a Seiko chronometer, ca. 1942. During WWII, Seiko duplicated the Narain chronom­ eter exactly. (800) 536-7632 FOR YOUR NEAREST DEALER AND FOR A FREE CRYSTAL SAMPLE!

Photo 3. Guillaume balance on early Glasshutte chronom­ eter, ca. 1910.

May 1993/Horological Times 21 Photo 4. Guillaume balance on a Russian chronometer, ca. 1960.

Photo 6. Monometallic balance with Elinvar balance spring on Hamilton Model 22 deck watch, ca. 1943.

nometers using Elinvar springs and monometallic bal­ ances. In 1938, the combination was fully described in horological textbooks such as Britten's Clock and Watchmaker's Handbook. In 1931, Hamilton had hired Photo 5. Monometallic Dittisheim as a consultant, secured a license to use balance with Elinvar Elinvar, balance spring on and started using Elinvar in late production Illinois 161A 60-Hour 992 and Illinois 60-Hour Bunn Special (Photo 5) watches. Bunn Special produced Later, Elinvar was incorporated in the newly designed by Hamilton Watch Co., 992B, Model 22 Deck Watch (Photo 6) and Model 21 ca. 1931. Chronometer (Photo 7) and aircraft clocks. One ofthe difficulties with Elinvar is that differ­ ent batches vary in their constancy of elastic strength across temperature. As a result, the balance used by and Poljot [Russia] (Photo 4) in their chronometers into Hamilton was not truly monometallic. The cross arm the 1980s. was oflnvar, created by Dr. Guillaume for use in the construction of national standard rulers that wouldn't Elinvar. After creating an alloy to be used in change dimensions with temperature. The rim is stain­ the balance, Dr. Guillaume became interested in attack­ less steel, which does expand in increasing tempera­ ing the problem through the balance spring. Dr. tures. This form of balance, called Straumann after its Guillaume had previously created Invar, an alloy which Swiss inventor, becomes egg-shaped at higher tempera­ does not change dimensions in response to temperature. tures, with the bulges at 90 degrees from the balance Invar was created so that national standard rulers, such cross arms. This bulge provides a means for adjusting as those maintained at the International Bureau of for variations in the response of balance springs made Weights and Measures directed by Dr. Guillaume, would from different batches ofElinvar. Other than the timing not need to be maintained or used at precise tempera­ screws, the screws on the Hamilton balances should not tures. be disturbed. Dr. Guillaume created Elinvar as an alloy that After WWII, the proven success of alloy springs would maintain its strength of elasticity across tem­ with monometallic balances encouraged the develop­ perature. This opened the door to using balances which ment of wristwatches using this combination. Waltham did not need to change their diameters in order to created an alloy called Conel, Elgin created Elginium, compensate for the changes in spring strength across and the Swiss went on to use Nivarox. All of these alloys temperature. Dr. Guillaume was awarded a Nobel Prize were used to make the balance springs which were used for his work on Elinvar. with simple, uncompensated, truly monometallic bal­ Dr. Guillaume licensed a Swiss chronometer ances. These balances were much simpler to construct maker, Paul Dittisheim, to manufacture Elinvar bal­ and poise. ance springs. By 1922, Dittisheim was producing chro- Generally, the Swiss watches use Nivarox bal-

22 Horological Times/May 1993 SHIP CHRONOMETER PARTS Hard-to-find replacement parts for Hamilton model 21 ship chronometers. Almost any Hamilton 21 ship chronometer part is available by special order. Order by factory number. ORDER BY FACTORY NUMBER

8 #42186 #42162 ~ #42076 Not Available Assembled #285 ij

Photo 7. Monometallic balance with an Elinvar balance spring on a Hamilton Model 21 chronometer, ca. 1944. Hamilton copied the design of the Nardin chronometer but #42044 also introduced numerous improvements. ance springs with a very simple 3-arm balance made of BALANCE STAFF beryllium copper that uses no screws (Photo 8). Varia­ #42186 ...... $70.00 tions in balance springs made from different batches of ESCAPE PINION ONLY Nivarox are unimportant since the watch is kept at a #42074 ...... $70.00 fairly constant temperature by the wrist. This, plus the ESCAPE WHEEL ONLY importance ofbalance poise in wristwatches, makes the #42076 ...... $180.00 use of balance screws unnecessary and undesirable. BALANCE HOLE JEWEL As an interesting side note, during WWII Elgin #42162 ...... $25.00 was awarded a secondary source contract by the U.S. WINDING KEY Navy to produce marine chronometers. Apparently, #42044 ...... $70.00 there was some concern that the Germans could attack DETENT SPRING WITHOUT JEWEL Hamilton in Lancaster, PA. Elgin designed and pro­ #42087 ...... $250.00 duced a chronometer that used an Elginium balance DETENT SPRING LOCKING JEWEL ONLY spring coupled to the Guillaume balance (Photo 9). #285 ...... $45.00 Surprisingly, the Elgin chronometer was a disaster. The instruments could not be compensated to keep a ------stable rate across te~perature. To compound the mag-

234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208 Photo 8. Nivarox balance spring with Greensboro, N.C., 27420,USA 3-arm beryllium balance Phone: (919) 275-0462 ·... , on an Omega Fax Number: 1-800-537-4513 Constellation, ca. 1970.

May 1993/Horological Times 23 delivered in September 1942. It was returned by the Naval Observatory and completely rebuilt four times before it was accepted in January 1943. Hamilton ran into the same early production problems that were to trouble Elgin.Unfortunately for Elgin, the battle for the Pacific ended before Elgin could get the problems solved.

Conclusion. The development of quartz time­ keepers is an extension of the search for ever more stable portable timekeepers. During WWII, the U.S. Navy funded the development of quartz chronometers and even installed one or two on ships. But it has only been in the last few years that the U.S. Navy has begun to actively phase out the use of mechanical chronom­ eters. In 1992, the U.S. Navy declared the remaining stock of approximately 5,000 chronometers to be sur­ plus. That is strong tribute to the work ofGuillaume and Dittisheim. Photo 9. A Guillaume balance used with an Elgfoium Watches and timekeepers with historically im­ balance spring on the ill-fated Elgin Model 600 portant balances will most likely be seen by those who chronometer, ca. 1944. work on very high-grade timepieces such as carriage clocks, pocket chronometers, deck watches, and marine chronometers. It is important to refrain from disturbing nitude of this disaster, the poor performance was not the balance of these timekeepers, even when replacing discovered at the factory, but only after the instruments the staff. Poise was a secondary consideration in the were submitted to the U.S. Navy for final acceptance. adjustment of many of these pieces, and attempts to This should not be seen to reflect badly on Elgin. poise the balance can have disastrous results on their Elgin probably delivered the instruments untested un­ ability to keep time. der an expedited procurement procedure. Perhaps more We can all take pride in the history behind that importantly, Hamilton also experienced serious prob­ $25 balance complete. After all, it was the object of over lems in their first 100 chronometers. For example, I 150 years of scientific research and the intended result possess Hamilton Model 21 serial number 4. This in­ of the Nobel Prize winning research of Dr. Guillaume. strument was the fourth M21 made and was first 0 r------, I CORRECTION -- "Clocks Inside & Out" HAS YOUR I The photo below is the correct Photo 2 that should ADDRESS CHANGED? I have appeared in "Clocks Inside & Out" by Dewey I Clark in the March 1993 issue on page 36. PLEASE NOTIFY I I American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211

OLD ADDRESS

Address ______

City, State & Zip ______

NEW ADDRESS

Address ------

City, State, & Zip ______Photo 2. Modem form of Earnshaw balance from a chro­ nometer by John Bliss of New York, ca. 1903. L------~ 24 Horological Times/May 1993 Movado Always in Motion PART3

The two deck watches described below but most likely it was the fourth possible can serve as examples for Movado's activ­ vertical position and theisochronism. Only ity in the field of precision timekeeping Patek Philippe is known to have this last with regard to observatory contests. adjustment made to some of their high­ The first one is mounted in a precision chronometers. These additional nickel carrying case, and features a 22- two tests were only performed at the lignemovementwithso-called three-quar­ former German Maritime Observatory ter upper plate (barrel, center wheel, and (Deutsche Seewarte) in Hamburg. Figure 27. Pocket chronometers with all other wheels under one bridge) of The isochronism (also called the pivoted detent escapement, made by extremely high quality (Figures 25 and testing of the mainspring torque) was A. Lange & Sohne, Glashiltte, Gennany. 26). Some of these movements were examined the following way: The watch equipped with diamondendstones for the was fully wound and a reading taken balance staff and had platinum or gold every hour or every second hour. The regulating screws on the balance wheel. difference between the various hourly Thebasicdesignofthesemovementswith rates was compared with the average the three-quarter upper plate and the daily rate, and therefore the influence of large cut-out for the balance wheel does the changing mainspring torque could be neither resemble any other Movado nor established. Swiss-made caliber of this type. There is, The ten adjustments made to ure 30). The movement bears a six-digit however, a certain similarity to some this watch indicate that it was prepared serial number and apparently the watch English calibers and also to pocket chro­ for testing at the German Maritime Ob­ was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory. nometers with pivoted detent escapement servatory in Hamburg. This type of deck The caliber shown here was most likely manufactured by Lange and Grossmann watch was also manufactured with a the 19-ligne caliber 800M, which has the in Glashutte, Germany before World War wooden case and suspended in gimbals. traditional size (42.4 mm) of a pocket I (Figure 27). Two of these watches were rated 4and11 watch movement 21, jewels and eight The Movado movement shown at the Neuchatel Observatory competi­ adjustments. This movement could be here has ten adjustments. This is highly tion in 1931. considered Movado's standard precision unusual and goes beyond the required The same caliber has been used pocket chronometer caliber of the 1920s criteriaofmostEuropeaninstituteswhich for a Bord chronometer (also with up-and­ and 30s. performed chronometer testings. Nor­ down indicator) which was installed in a mally, only seven or eight adjustments two-piece wooden carrying case (Figures were required; the timing was tested in 28 and 29). I ts function is indicated by the five positions (three vertical and two hori­ dial inscription "Chronometre de Bord," zontal) and in two or three temperatures but only the adjustment in two tempera­ (warm, average, and cold). We can only tures is indicated on the movement itself. speculate about the other two adjust­ The second deck watch has the ments made to this Movado chronometer, traditionalMovadomovementdesign (Fig- Figures 25 and 26. Deck watch made by Movaoo around 1920. With up-and-oown indicator and 22-ligne movement.

M 17 29

Figures 28 and 29 (left and above). Bord chronometer, made by Movado around 1920.

Figure 30. Movement of a Bord chronometer, made by Movado around 1920.

M18 The next deck watch is a rarity. sensible modification of wristwatch or to a degree, against temperature changes. It was made around the same time (Fig­ pocket watch movements for chronom­ Shortly after its introduction, the Ermeto ure 31). At first glance, it appears to be a eters with center second hand (which was was modified to accommodate a special traditional marine chronometer in a three­ much in demand at this time). And it is kindof"automatic" winding system, which tiered mahogany case where the move­ another example ofMovado's aim to cover is as simple as it is ingenious (Figure 32): ment is suspended in gimbals. Looking a broad range of applications with a rela­ When opening and closing the outer case, closer, we find a portable deck watch with tively small line of basic components or two straight rack bars attached to the bow and crown inside the brass case, and units. covers turn the winding stem on which a only :Uter studying the opened watch, we In the 50s and 60s, Movado par­ pinion has been mounted. Since the mecha­ find a very interesting solution: inside a ticipated again in observatory competi­ nism is hidden inside the inner case, the large movement ring, the well-known tions, this time for wristwatches. In 1956 crown turns by itself as if activated by wristwatch caliber 150MN has been the well-known George Sautebin, the in­ magic. Both hands were needed to open placed. It is mounted in such a fashion structor of precision timing at the watch­ the Ermeto case, and this was one of the that the axle ofthe fourth wheel is located makingschool in La Chaux-de-Fonds, was few points criticized. in the center of the dial, which has a hired for this purpose. The Ermeto was originally devel­ layout used for regulator clocks, and there­ But now let's come back from the oped and patented (interestingly only on fore the second hand is located in its height of scientific precision watchmak­ March 6, 1930) by a company in Le Locle center. ing to the watches made for everyday use named Huguenin Freres. Huguenin ap­ The movement ring bears an en­ in the 20s. parently offered this design to various graving "Brevet," which indicates a patent companies, but only Movado recognized issued for this unusual but ingenious THEERMETO its importance. After a number of design design.ItwastheSwisspatentNo.104595 The second great achievement after the changes (Huguenin's approach was for a from May 22, 1923. By mounting the Polyplan was the development of the pendant watch), the Ermeto was intro­ small wristwatch movement in such an Ermeto in 1926. This word is of Greek duced to the market by Movado's first eccentric position, it was possible to cre­ origin, and means "tight" (air- and water­ advertising campaign. ate a deck watch with the advantage of tight). See Figures 32 through 34. The Ermetoconceptshowedgreat having the pinion carrying the large sec­ The Ermeto is a rectangular promise for a commercial success, so much ond hand and the center wheel integrated pocket watch where the inner case (which so that the right for its distribution be­ into the direct transmission of the power. houses the movement, dial with hands, came the subject of a lucrative deal. A The small hour and minute display was winding, and setting mechanism) is sur­ businessman by the name of Cesar de located above the center, and theup-and­ rounded by a second two-part outer case. Trey, who had been dealing in dental down indicator (power reserve) was posi­ When these two covers are pulled apart, products in England, decided to return to tioned below the center of the dial. the inner case with the dial and hands is Switzerland in 1927. He wanted to get The patent drawings called for revealed to read the time. With the outer involved in the watch wholesale business the use of larger pocket watch move­ case closed, a certain protection is pro­ and acquired the distribution rights for ments. This resulted in deck watches vided for the inner case against shocks, the Ermeto in France, England, Spain, with large size dials. It was a simple and changes of the barometric pressure, and, and Italy for SFr 250,000. He established

Figure 32. The Ermeto. Schematic drawing of the "automatic" winding system.

Figure 31. Movement of a Bord chronometer made by Movado around 1930, equipped with the wristwatch caliber 150MN.

M19 Figure 33. The Ermeto i11 two different sizes and case designs. a company in Lausanne which focused solely on the distribution of the Ermeto and called this enterprise Hermetica SA. TheErmetowasproducedinthree different sizes (Figure 34) and all had more or less the format of a pocket watch. There was the "Master" with manual wind­ ing system, the "Normal," and the small­ estwascalled the "Baby,"both with "auto­ matic"windingsystems.lnaddition, vari­ ous other models were produced such as the "Standard," the "Luxus," and the "Pull­ man," with an 8-day movement. Further­ more, a travel alarm clock was introduced as "Ermetophon," and after 1946 another version, the "Calendarmeto" was offered with calendar and moonphase indicator. The Ermeto, which was also pro­ duced with "Chronometre" printed on the dial, has been equipped initially with the well-known, all-round wristwatch caliber Figure 34. The Ermeto in three different sizes: 150MN, and in calendar version with the "Master, 11 "Nonna/," and "Baby." related caliber 155. (Note: the "Baby" version featured the caliber 11. B.W.S.) The Ermeto could be carried simply in a be worn by both ladies and gents alike. In A broad range ofdesigns included pocket or attached to a chain as a pocket 1945, Eugene Jaquet and Alfred Chapius steel cases or gold and silver plated cases watch. This watch was so versatile that it dedicated a whole chapter to the success­ covered with a variety of leathers; solid could be worn in an elegant ladies' purse ful and ingenious concept of the Ermeto in gold and silver cases, engraved with beau­ as well as in a hiker's knapsack. the already-mentioned book Histoire et tiful patterns or studded with precious In 1931 another version, the Technique de laMontre Suisse. TheErmeto stones; colorful designs in "lacque de chine" "Ermeto-Bag," was introduced, where an was produced until 1982. or enamel works in "Cloisonne" or Ermeto was integrated into the handles of The basic function of the Ermeto "Champleve" technique, all ofwhich made a ladies' handbag. In short time, the was quite conventional. However, the ex­ the Ermeto a piece of art in its own right Ermeto became famous as a "sexless" istence of the oyster-like outer shell opened during the Art Deco period. It is no small watch--that is, a unisex watch to be worn up new avenues in materials and designs wonder that such companies like Cartier by both genders. We alluded to this fact to be used for the decoration of this prac­ or Tiffany chose the Ermeto for their earlier when we pointed out Movado's tical watch. These possibilities have been product lines, and we still find some rare preference for wristwatches which could widely recognized and utilized. and valuable versions today.

M20 Figure 37. The "Valentino" pocket watch.

field, launched its first chronograph, and at about the same time as Breitling mar­ Figures 35 and 36. Examples of "Hermetic" keted their first samples. The name cho­ watches made by other companies. sen by Movado for this product was quite simply "Chronographe." The base movement was the new Because of its success and repu­ grated into the case rim (Figure 37). This 12-ligne caliber 90M and the modified tation, the Ermeto has been recognized as was a year before the introduction of the version with the additional 12-hour regis­ the leader in the field of hermetic watches Ermeto, and could be considered a fore­ ter later became caliber 95M (Figures 41 (montre hermetique), and a number of runner of the latter. and 42). companies copied the concept, but tried to After 1930 came the rectangular Also in 1938 Movado introduced avoid the disadvantages ofthe need oftwo wristwatch. With digital display in fash­ a wristwatch with complete calendar, in­ hands to open and wind the watch. To ion, Movado participated with watches dicating the date by a hand, the day of the name a few: there was the "Sportank" like the example shown in Figure 38. The week and the months in two dial win­ made by La Champagne in Bienne, the time was indicated by rotating discs (simi­ dows, under the name "Calendograf." "Reeta-Sport," the "Juvenia-Sport," the lar to calendar discs) which replaced the The Chronographe and the "Zenith-Sport," and the "Etui-Sport" by traditional hands. The first pocket Calendografhad a completely new move­ Longines, the "La Captive" made by watches with digital display were already ment design: the chronograph or calendar Tavannes, the hexagonal-shaped "Etema­ manufactured by the International Watch functions were mounted on an additional hexa," the "Montre Hermetique"by Tissot, Company around 1885, based on a patent plate, which could be separated from the the"Slip" and "Sigma" by Pery, the ex­ issued to the Austrian engineer Josef base movement simply by removing a few travagant "Eclipso" by Lip, the "Rebus" by Pallweber. In 1931 the "Curviplan" fol­ screws, which were blued in the case of Cortebert, the "Olympos" by Zodiac, the lowed, which has features similar to the the chronograph in order to be easily "Ebella" by Ebel, and many more (Figures Polyplan. The movement caliber 510 with recognized by the watchmakers (Figure 35 and 36). a rectangular layout had been adapted to 43). This concept was developed in 1936 Often the names chosen by vari­ fit into the curved case (Figures 39 and by Frederic Piguet in Le Brassus upon ous companies tried to associate this watch 40). This watch was produced in four request by Movado. The additional 12- with sports, which is, however, not very differentcaseanddial variations. In 1934, hour register mechanism was later again evident with respect to the type of this the "Novoplan" was introduced, which developed by Piguet in 1939. Initially, the particular product design. followed the sanie design ideas. modular concept had been used by Rolex The 1920s were also a period of In 1935, Movado introduced its in 1931 for their wristwatches with auto­ changes within the management of the first water-resistant watch under the matic winding system. company. The sons of the· founding fa­ name "Acvatic." In 1939 Movado produced a rect­ thers (now in their sixties) took over. The "Cronoplan" appeared in angular wristwatch chronograph based George, the son oflsaac (who passed away 1937. It was a watch with two indepen­ on the "Reverso" design. This was appar­ in 1928) hadentered thecompanyin 1912. dently rotating bezels (one for the min­ ently a prototype, and has never been He was an engineer trained at the Watch­ utes, the other for the hours), which could manufactured in a series because of the making School of La Chaux-de-Fonds. be used to measure elapsed times. extremely high production cost (Figure Pierre, who was one of Achille's six chil­ In 1910, Movado had already 44). The front shows a traditional dial dren, took over his father's chair as direc­ produced chronographs with 30-minute with hour and minute hand and a small tor in 1929. registers and a single push button located second indicator at the 12:00 side of the Most of the designs developed inside the crown. In 1938, another impor­ dial. The back side of the watch has two during the 1920s and 1930s were more tant development was successfully com­ registers related to the chronograph: a 30- conventional and matter-of-fact. They pleted: the introduction of a chronograph minute register on top and a 60-second were influenced by the taste of each pe­ with two push buttons and a 60-minute counter at the bottom. The chronograph is riod and followed respective fashion register, and later a version with an addi­ activated by two sliding pushers located trends. In 1925, Movado introduced the tional 12-hour register. at the rim of the case. "Valentino," a round, snakeskin-covered This took place approximately a Without any doubt, this was a pocket watch with a crown at 6:00 inte- year after Universal, a specialist in this very interesting idea using the other side

M21 39 40

41

Figure 38 (above). Rectangular gold wristwatch with digital minute and hour display, around 1930.

Figures 39 and 40 (two photos top right). The "Curviplan" with rectangu­ lar stainless steel case and caliber 510, around 1940.

Figure 41 (middle). The "Chronographe" with 60-minute register and constant seconds, 12 lignes, caliber 9017.

Figure 42 (right). The "Chronographe" with 12-hour and 60-minute registers and constant seconds, caliber 895M.

M22 H I'I

Figure 43. Modular system used for the "Chronographe" (right) and the Figure 44 (right). Rectangular white and "Calendograf' (left). yellow gold wristwatch with reversible case, chronograph, and 30-minute recorder; unique piece made in 1939.

Figure 45. The "Tempomatic" self­ winding wristwatch with sweep second hand and sectional hammer rotor, caliber 220M.

of the case for additional functions in­ In the mid-1940s, Movado devel­ produce its regular range of watches and stead of turning it around in order to oped its first self-winding watch and in­ marketed them under their own brand protect the crystal and the dial, as it was troduced it as "Tempomatic" (1945). This name. But soon they produced pieces in in the original concept of the Reverso­ watch (Figure 45) equipped with the cali­ conjunction with other makers, such as case. The use of the double-sided layout ber 220M had a sectional hammer rotor the watches made for Andreas Huber in for a normal watch does not make a lot of and a sweep second hand. The Munich (Figure 48), equipped with the sense, since the watch would have. to be "Calendomatic" followed in 1946, which caliber 510 and signed on the dial as removed from the wrist every time a was the first automatic wristwatch with "Huber Movado," or watches made for reading is taken. However, this approach complete calendar, equipped with caliber Cartier and Tiffany, especially the Ermeto. has been used recently by Daniel Roth of 225M (Figure 46). Shortly thereafter, Most of the wristwatches were still Le Sentier for his wristwatch chronom­ Movado launched a modified version as equipped with the all-round caliber eters equipped with a tourbillon. (Note: "Celestograf," which featured a small sec­ 150MN, but more and more automati­ The tourbillon is visible on the dial side ond hand at 6:00 and a moonphase indica­ cally wound movements took over. and a calendar mechanism and up-and­ tor (Figure 47). During the same time period, down indicator on the back. B.W.S.) Naturally, Movado continued to Movado became a specialist in producing

M23 Figure 46. The "Calendomatic," the first self-winding wristwatch with complete calendar, caliber 225M.

Figure 47. The "Celestograr wristwatch with calendar and phases of the moon indicator.

complicated wristwatches with the rapid active life, and praises the remarkable introduction ofnewcalibers. SinceMovado personality of Achille, who was a dedi­ did not (or very rarely) purchase basic cated member of the Jewish community, ebauchesfromothercompanies, butrather a simple and righteous human being, a developed and produced them itself, a kind boss, friendly towards everyone. It is further expansion became necessary. In indicative with respect to the publicity 1944, Movado was with 275 employees, shyness of the family that the Journal one of the largest enterprises in the Can­ Suisse d'Horologerie printed only a brief ton of Neuchatel. In 1948, the factory announcement regarding Achille Dite­ facilities at Rue du Pare No. 117 in La sheim's passing when it was common to Chaux-de-Fondswereextended by a fourth publish an obituary for a person of his building to house the production of the recognition and esteem. Tempomatic and Celestograf calibers, as well as the Astronic from 1950 on. 1944 marked the year of the death of Achille Ditesheim, the founder of the company and last surviving member of the founding father's generation. The fu­ neral eulogy, held by the great Rabbi Jules Wolff on November 1, 1944, has been handed down to us, and here we find Figure 48. Rectangular wristwatch, signed the usual praise ofa noble deceased. Wolff "Huber-Movado," with caliber 510. draws the picture of a harmonious and

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May 1993/Horological Times 25 By J.M. Huckabee CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC,FBHI .9l6out ...

REPAIR OF PHYSICAL DAMAGE

and Escapement parts are now available for most CLICK RIVET PROBLEMS of the older American clocks and may involve making a new hub and a bit of escapement adjustment. Rust may also be an attendant condition. Ifin Q. What ls the posslblllty of repaln to an a non-functional area, clean it up and let the evi­ American clock movement that has extensive dence remain. If on a functional area, you may have physical damage? to make a new piece. I've done lots of these basket jobs in years A. Not knowing the extent of the damage will past and attribute many of my skills to those experi- make this reply very general. Let me imagine this to ences. be a time and strike and that the movement has A side thought: About 20 years ago I restored plates distorted, arbors bent, wheels damaged, and a movement that had been found submerged in a pillars crooked--a basket case indeed. waste dump. Almost all of the steel pieces had to be First, if this goes to the scrap pile it will be the replaced. I packaged the lantern wires, some striker loss of one piece of our American history. control wire pieces, arbors, fly, and nuts in an Let's discuss this from a teclmical stand­ envelope and returned them to the owner. He re­ point, and not from the fact that it may not be a good cased the movement into a nice clock. I visited the economic decision. I've been there many times. Yes, man about two years ago. and to my surprise he it can be restored! opened the clock, found the envelope, and proudly Begin with the plates. These can be straight­ showed the pieces, reca.11.ibg the condition before ened, pillars removed, and ends reworked. Plate repair. Needless to say, that really thrilled this old scars may remain and, due to stretch, we may need clockmaker! to shift some pivot holes. This can be done with some carefully located bushings. The job is really not all that bad. Most of the springs can be replaced: suspen­ Q. I have trouble making the click rivet hold sion spring and rod, mainsprings, and wire springs in place in older American clocks. What makes on striker parts. Again, it's not too difficult. these come loose so easily? What ls the best Wheels which are damaged in flat are easily solution to this problem? straightened if the bends are not too sharp. Sharp bends may result in the wheel running untrue in A. It's impossible to say why a rivet loosens the round after it is straightened. You will need to work first time, but properly repaired there is no reason for on the arbor, the round and flat as one job. it to ever come loose again. This is a plague to the Arbors in American clocks are usually from repairman, butiseasilyhealed. Thereasonareplace­ drawn steel wire. If so, they can be straightened with ment rivet comes out is that it did not fit properly. a very high degree of success. If the arbors are hard Let's discuss some guidelines for shoulder and with cut pinions they must be annealed, and rivets that are used as a fulcrum for moving parts. even then breakage is a high probability. Give atten­ The journal section must be as short as feasible to tion to the pivot damageduring this portion of the job. constrain the leverage to break it loose. In short, keep Wheels which have excessive run-out in round it short. The tang which passes through the wheel can be touched up in a wheel engine in the areas that should be a light press-fit. The riveted area should be are too large. Lantern wires are readily replaceable, upset into a chamfer in the hole of the wheel. These pivots re-workable, and even a few damaged wheel guides will almost guarantee the rivet will never work teeth can be touched up by hand methods. loose.

26 Horological Times/May 1993 Our first problem is the hole in the wheel. If the hole is not round and cylindrical in form, ream the hole and cut the chamfer on the riveting side of the wheel. This may enlarge the hole by a goc;xi bit, even making it necessary to enlarge the click hole to permit a rivet shoulder. Be sure the two sizes permit a good shoulder on the rivet. Now for the real problem! I do not recall ever finding a rivet in a repair assortment that fits the clock in hand! I suspect this is the rcx:>t of the problems you described. If the rivet is not absolutely tight in the wheel hole, it will tear out. Making a click rivet is one of the nicest and easiest lathe jobs that you can imagine. After making a few, you can make one in less time than it takes to lcx:>k through a repair assortment. I'm talking about WATCH a 2-3 minute lathe job, and the lathe-cut rivet is a perfect fit! BATTERIES Try this method: Chuck a piece of 3 I 16 inch brass in the lathe with about 1 /2 inch overhang (larger clocks may require 1I4 inch stock). Cut the ASLOWAS ~JI tang that passes through the wheel for a trial-fit for diameter and length. Now cut the click shoulder to diameter and length for a trial-fit to the click. Give the , ..E~H shoulder a little extra length as the riveting operation tends to reduce the free play. At this time use a thin No. 392 cut-off tcx:>l and cut the rivet off, leaving a suitable head thickness. I stop just before the rivet cuts away from the parent stock, with a little holding tang about 0.015 inch in diameter. This permits me to hold the rivet by the parent stock as a handle. Holding the handle, assemble the rivet, click, and wheel. The wheel tang should here be tight enough to hold things in place. Now break away the handle, place the work on a bench block, and a stroke No. 362 ...... 39¢ or two with a flat-faced hammer finishes the job. No. 364 ...... _...... 28¢ You will have a job that is professional in No. 371 ...... 39¢ quality and appearance, time efficient, and perma­ No. 377 ...... 39¢ nently secure. No. 379 ...... 44¢ No. 389 ...... - ...... -...... 38¢ I highly recommend lathe-turned click rivets No. 392 ...... 24¢ because oftheir superior appearance and job quality. No. 397 ...... 36¢ No. 399 ...... 39¢ ff you h11v• 11 qu••tlon, plH•• writ•: "Allk Huck,• c/o Horologlc11I Time•, No. 2016 ...... 61¢ P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Wholesale Distributors of: Diamonds, Jewelry, and Jewelers' & Watchmakers ' Supplies! YOU HAVE TRIED THEM ALL ... NOW TRY PLYMOUTH WE ARE A FULL SERVICE MATERIAL SUPPLIER. TOLEDO WE SPECIALIZE IN ROLEX PARTS, JEWELERS MATERIALS FOR QUARTZ WATCHES 245 Twenty Third Street AND HARD-TO-FIND MATERIALS FOR Toledo. OH 43624 AMERICAN BRACELET & POCKET WATCHES, CLOCK MATERIALS, & TOOLS. SEND FOR A FREE SET OF CIRCULARS. 24-Hour Toll Free Ordering 1(800) 537-0260 •••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Order Now ... Fax (419) 241-4594 PLYMOUTH WATCH MATERIAL CO., INC. 87 Nassau St., Room 909 New York, NY 10038 Telephone (212) 267-4441

May 1993/Horological Times 21 The Apprentice Clockmaker

JOHN P. KENYON Clock Movement Maintenance CMC Part III

Releasing the Power from the Mainspring

n the last installment, we examined the indi­ occurs, out of control. Therefore, it is imperative that I vidual components of a single train 30-hour you always use a sound procedure to relieve the power clock movement and the function of each of them. Now slowly. The first few times you unwind a mainspring, we are ready to investigate how to dismantle the move­ solicit the assistance of an experienced clockmaker to ment. The learning experience will be enhanced if you aid and guide you. can acquire one of these movements to practice on as we Mainspring power is usually released by using proceed through the steps. If you do not already have a let-down key. Three types are illustrated in Figure 1. one, check with a clockmaker friend, or watch for one at The most common one is shown at A. This tool is made a guild or association meeting mart or auction. They are up ofa large universal plastic handle, fitted with a metal not uncommon. It is not absolutely essential to follow insert, and has aset of three or six steel double end keys. along with a movement in hand. You can study the The key slides into the metal insert in the handle and is information now, then use it for reference later when held in place by a tension spring. Key sizes 1 through 16 you get the movement. are available in sets. In addition to a let-down key, this tool can be used as a key gauge or as a bench key to wind Preparation for the Release of Power clocks. The first step in dismantling a spring-driven clock The "old timer" let-downkeyisshownatB. This movement is to release the power from the mainspring. type is made up of a hardwood handle in which a steel Safety cannot be over-emphasized when working or brass key shaft has been permanently inserted. It is with mainsprings! They are powerful, sharp, and available in all sizes in either double or single end. unpredictable. An accident with one can cause a serious The third type, the slotted bench key, is shown injury to yourself and to someone nearby, and cause at C. This style consists of a wooden or plastic handle severe damage to the movement. You must have respect into which a brass or steel slotted shaft has been fitted. for mainsprings and concentrate on what you are doing With this type of tool, the key that belongs with the clock when working with them. An enormous amount of is inserted into the slot to let down the mainspring. energy goes into a mainspring during winding, and ifit Some suppliers have this attachment available as a is released all at once, a violent discharge of power slotted double-end spindle for use with the handle in Figure 1. Let-down keys. Figure A. Each slot is a different size to accommodate different key wing thicknesses. Caution must be ob­ served to stay clear ofthe wings ofthe key that protrude. Any of the above let-down keys can be pur­ chased from a clock material house catalog.

Open mainsprings (those not in a barrel), such as the ones we are working with, must be immobilized, then restrained by a mainspring clamp. An initial assortment of clamps can be purchased from your sup­ plier. You'll probably never need to purchase any more, because they are found on new mainsprings, and as you replace them, you can add the clamps to your assort­ --­ "'-slot for Key 6 • c ment. Examples of mainspring clamps are shown in Figure 2. An immobilized, restrained loop end main­ •A spring is illustrated in Figure 3. 28 Horological Times/May 1993 Figure 2. Mainspring clamps. Figure 3. Immobilized mainspring. n () ~ t1 alnspnng..

Releasing the Mainspring Power the mainspring is broken, there may still be some power For this operation, you will need an extra hand to hold left in it, so a special clamp (i.e. a screw type automobile the movement firmly to the bench. If one is not avail­ radiator hose clamp) will have to be used to restrain it. able, the movement can be clamped to the bench, held in 2) Place the correct size let-down key over the a jig, or one of the plates can be held in a vise that has winding arbor to the full depth, and turn it just far protected jaws to prevent damage to the plate. The enough in the wind direction to release the tension movement must be held secure so that both of your between the click ratchet arm and the ratchet gear tooth hands are free to maneuver the let-down in the follow­ (Figure 4A). ing steps. 3) While holding it in this position, use a small 1) Ifthe mainspring is unwound, carefully wind screwdriver or an awl to raise the ratchet far enough to it enough so that a mainspring clamp will fit over it. If clear the gear tooth (Figure 4B).

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May 1993/Horological Times 29 detached without opening the plates, or in the case of a Figure 4. Click assembly. damaged click assembly, or for some other reason that the let-down key technique will not work safely. Dam­ age to the pivots and/or pivot holes may take place with this method. Click Spring"" Class is dismissed for this time. Remember to Ratchet get help from a seasoned clockmaker for your first Arm mainspring venture, observe the procedures men­ tioned previously, and be caref'ul. Next time we will open up the plates to see what repairs are needed inside of the movement. After letting down the mainspring, the rest is a "piece of cake"! Rotchet / 0 Geor Tooth

A B Saving Your Horological Times? Announcing NEW & IMPROVED HT BINDERS! 4) Carefully release enough pressure from the let-down key handle so that it will turn very slowly in We have the answer to protecting and organizing your your grip. Allow it to unwind enough to harness the magazines. Our leather-look binder holds 12 issues (one volume). End the frustration ofsearching for back issues mainspring power inside the clamp. An extra hand is or trying to remember technical details that you just helpful here to align the clamp to the center of the know you've read. Ifyou are interested in organization, mainspring while your hands are busy holding the send a check or money order in the amount of $12.00 ratchet arm back and controlling the grip on the let­ (postpaid) to: HT Binders, P.O. Box 11011, Cincin· down key handle. nati, OH 45211. (Please allow 3 weeks for handling and 5) When the power is completely restrained by delivery.) the clamp, move the screwdriver (or awl) enough to allow the ratchet to slide back into place on a tooth ofthe ratchet gear (Figure 4A). AWi 6) Now the mainspring is immobilized. You can check it by testing for freedom or sloppiness in the train. MATERIAL SEARCH Use of a winding key without a properly de­ signed handle or using a hand vise for a let-down tool is NETWORK very unwise and should be avoided, even if you plan to EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work In release the power one ratchet tooth at a time. This conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can method is likely to result in an accident. Also, letting the supply any of the items listed here, please send details arbor spin down on its own (not in your grip) should be to the Material Search Network. Do not •end the avoided. Such a discharge of power is certain to result in ite11111. Members requesting these items will be ad­ damage to the ratchet assembly and other parts. vised of their availability and will contact you direct. An alternate but less desirable method is avail­ MM4 Waltham Vanguard, 16 siZe, open face, able to release mainspring power on movements in lever set case, white or yellow. which the verge can be removed without opening the plates. (Never open the plates with power on a train.) MM5 Lux 24 Ugne time-only clock center wheel The procedure is: mainspring, 7.9mm x 27mm x 24' 1) Oil all pivots. MM6 Seth Thomas, 6 size, open face, 2) Place a clamp over the mainspring. balance bridge 3) Remove the verge and permit the movement to run down slowly into the clamp while controlling the MM9 7 -3 I 4 ligne Concord speed by applying friction to the escape wheel. MMlO Tudor (Rolex) gent's self-wind 4) Continue until the train stops running and calibre 390 the mainspring is contained in the clamp. 5) This method is likely to leave a small residual If you can supply any of these items. please contact: of power in the mainspring, so be sure to harness it prior AWi Material Search Network, to opening the plates. AWI Central. Remember, this is an alternate procedure to be P.O. Bo:x: 11011, Cincinnati, OH 46211 used only on movements in which the verge can be 30 Horological Times/May 1993 KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES

The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz ana­ BERGEON® WATER PROOF TESTER log movement. The only tool required is a meter. Test watches under normal conditions of wear Material and instructions for learning this test are without introducing water into the case. This supplied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of their easy-to-use appararus will be at hand whenever educational work. There is no charge to any the watchmaker needs to check the water group wishing to learn this test. There are great resistance of a watch case. Has two watch benefits to learning this in a group setting. How­ capacity and an air ever, for individuals who may not be able to pressure system testing participate in a group, it is available to them also. up to 3 A1M (safe up to 6A1M). For more information call or write the AWi office for an information sheet and application form. a Stock #BER-5555 $S%S.00 Precision WATER PROOF CASE WRENCH Crystal Cutting Co. DESIGNED FOR ROLEX® CASES "For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" Especially designed for any and all Rolex® water proof cases. Six sizes of knurled rings SAME DAY accurately interlock with the edges of Genuine Rolex® 0 SERVICE cases. Adjustable case holder built into base of frame SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK accommodates all sizes of Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter All Major Crystals With 10 Years Experience cases. Sturdy frame fits any O bench vise. LOWEST $46.7g Prices in the Country 0 Stock #C0.-650

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May 1993/Horological Times 31 Pickle Barrel JEWELRY CRAFTING

AND REPAIR MARSHALL F. RICHMOND Necessary Tools: CMW Their Uses and Care

robably the most needed and used tools in jewelry shapes, and sizes of pliers available. In fact, I just counted 84 P crafting and repair are pliers and tweezers. The pairs of different ones in one supplier's catalog. tweezers used in jewelry work are heavy-duty locking; some In doing jewelry crafting and repair, there are nine are slide lock and others are self-locking. These are invaluable different pliers that I consider necessary: chain nose, flat in holding work while applying heat. The slide locking twee­ nose, round tapered jaw, side-cutting, end-cutting, watch­ zers hold the work by applying pressure to hold the jaws makers' bow pliers (for bending arcs and circles), parallel together tightly. The self-locking tweezers are ones where the pliers (rough jaw and smooth jaw), and stone-setting pliers. jaws are tight, and by squeezing them, the jaws open and the Tapered jaw round nose pliers (Figure la) are work is placed within them. Then when the squeeze is used for bending and shaping small pieces of metal. They're released, the jaws spring together on the piece to be worked handy for making jump rings, straightening small rings or on, and it is held tightly by the spring action. chain links, and also for straightening and shaping pierced Smaller tweezers for handling small pieces of solder ear wires. As eachjaw is round and identical, it is easy to make or metal can be inexpensive tweezers or discarded watchmak­ figure eights from wire. The closer the work is placed toward ers' tweezers. Diamond tweezers with serrated jaws are the plier hinges, the larger the circle can be formed. useful in holding stones without flipping them out. However, In doing jewelry work, needle nose pliers (Figure any steel tweezers in constant use on the jewelers bench soon lb) are no doubt the most often used of all the pliers. All chain become rusty from being in contact with acids, fluxes, and or needle nose jewelers pliers that I have found listed in heat. Thus, they serve as rough jaw tweezers and will keep suppliers catalogs have smooth inner surfaced jaws. These slippage to a minimum when handling stones or smooth are used a lot on highly polished surfaces, and the smoothjaws objects. are less likely to mar these surfaces. They're used for opening About the only maintenance required on tweezers is and closingjump rings, attaching spring rings and swivels for to trim and reshape the ends when they get out of shape from holding, and bending or twisting metals to a desired shape. As use. This can be done by filing and bending. Rust can be these are used often to grip hard-tempered metals, oftentimes removed by using a wire bristle brush on the polishing motor, the tip ends get distorted and do not close tightly, thus, but I rarely remove rust from jewelry tweezers because they needing to be reshaped. Although these pliers are made of hold better this way. The heavy-duty tweezers are used in the tempered tool steel, they have had the temper drawn so they third hand tool to hold work, as well as on the bench heat pad, are soft enough to bend without breaking. They can even be held down with a steel bench block. There are many kinds, filed with a fine-cut sharp file.

FIGURE! FIGURE2

32 Horological Times/May 1993 Here is how to straighten these ends: First, open them as wide as they will open; then, place the jaws one at a time face down on a steel bench block. With a steel hammer, ,~------, tap the end until the inner surface is a straight line. After both *ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL* jaws have been straightened, the outside can, with the jaws FOR GREAT SERVICE closed, be filed back to shape; then finish these with a strip of fine emery cloth. The entire pliers then can be wire brushed ON ALL CROWNS, on a rotating steel brush (on the polishing motor) which will make the pliers look like new. A small amount of oil worked SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC in the hinge will also make the pliers work better for being CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, used on a jewelers bench that are exposed to acid fumes and become corroded so a little time spent on maintenance will MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. keep your tools in good workable shape. Flat nose pliers (Figure le) are available in either CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES rough jaw or smooth jaw. The smooth jaws are used on soft metals with highly polished surfaces. Rough (cut) jaws are TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 used when you need to grip an item securely so it will not flip FAX: 1-800-423-4256 out ofthe pliers. Since the flat nose pliers have sturdy tapered jaws, it is unusual for the ends to become distorted, so they will probably not need reshaping. The cut jaws seem to be ''WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" tempered harder so the rough inner parts do not dull easily. When working with jump rings, I use a pair of flat nose in my left hand and the chain nose in the other. To open thejumpring,I turnmy hands in opposite directions. Thering ffi[Z opens and after it is hooked to the items to be connected, by reversing the procedure the ring can be closed with the crack WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT so tightly that it can hardlly be seen. Maintenance on these can be held to wire brushing and oiling the hinge. SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! Side cutting pliers (Figure 2a) are used for cutting 7 DAYS A WEEK! light metal, wire, and even light ring shanks. I use these side­ cuttingpliers for cutting a light shank ringfrom a finger when it is too tight to remove, then two pairs of chain nose pliers to NJ: 1-908-469-7200 open the shank wide enough to come off of the finger. Caution should be used with this type of job, because an injury could result to a finger ifi t slips. Therefore, ifin doubt, use a regular ~------J ring-cutting rotary saw made for this purpose, for it takes away almost all risks. These can be sharpened using a 701) medium grit oilstone (India, carborundum, or aloxite grit) or on a motor-driven bench grinder. This is a critical grindingjob State because the angle must be correct, and when finished with the Street jaws closed, there should be no gap between the edges. Other care involved is the same as other pliers. ~ End-cutting pliers (Figure 2b) can be used also for Quincy cuttingofflight metal and wires. They are especially useful in IL cutting close to where the wire protrudes through metal when Gem City College 62301 riveting. These can also be sharpened the same way as side­ cutting pliers, and maintenance can be handled in the same Where Time Can Equal Money • Watchmaking • Jewelry (217) •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- • Clock Repair Management 0391

BUY• SELL HIRE • RELOCATE LEARN • FIND

Classifieds in Horological Times help you do what you want to do!

FIGURE3

May 1993/Horological Times 33 way as with other pliers. different bending operations they will perform. Although they Parallel pliers have many uses (Figure 3a is ser­ are limited in the size work they will do, they work well in rated rough jaw; 3b is smooth jaw copper lined). Regardless bending ring shanks, even up to the heaviest of men's ring of how wide they are opened, the jaws stay parallel, thus shanks. They can bend a complete circle from flat strips or a giving a better grip on whatever you are trying to hold. half-circle when making a one-half shank. When sizing a ring Parallel pliers are available in regular flat jaw smooth, flat either smaller or larger, these bending pliers can make bends jaw with serrated and grooved inside jaws, chain nose, round in the shank to make the ends come together when makingthe nose, and possibly others. The rough jaw parallel pliers work ring smaller or bend the ends into alignment to match the well for holding metal plate, metal sheet, or any other metal piece being put in when making it larger. The amount of that will not have the finish damaged from marking by the leverage these pliers have make most bending jobs easy. rough (serrated) jaws, while sawing on the bench pin either Although there are many sophisticated bending tools avail­ straight lines, curves, or circles. My smoothjaw parallel pliers able, I've never felt the need for them. Any bending that needs have a copper lining that I cut out of a piece of copper sheet to be done which can't be handled with the bending pliers, I've about 1/2 mm thick and soft-soldered to the inside jaws. This always been able to rely on my ingenuity to get the job done. not only will not mar a smooth finish, it will also grip better Setting pliers (Figure 5) are a necessity when on hard surfaces (especially because the copper is soft and will setting stones, especially in any kind ofprong settings. Figure give under the pressure of the jaws). Also, this can be used for 5a shows a pair ofsetting pliers that has a stop adjustment on straightening a short piece ofrod by gripping one end in the the jaws so they can be adjusted to close only so far. In some flex-shaft tool and with the shaft rotating, the rod can be critical settings, this takes the risk out of applying too much gripped with the copper jaws using a little pressure, and the pressure and damaging a prong. They are especially a pl us for rod will straighten. A little lubricant on the copper jaws will anyone with very little stone-setting experience. make this operation work better. The serrated rough jaws You can develop the proper "feel" with experience, so that have in addition a groove making a "V" from the ends of this stop is not necessary. These pliers will still be a valuable the jaws to the hinged end is excellent for holding square or tool for bending and tightening prongs, because the jaws rectangularpiecesofringsizingstock. Theycan be cut off with remain parallel regardless of the width they are opened. thejewelers saw, and ifusing a ''V"joint, the end can be shaped These pliers were designed by our current AWI President, for the groove with a triangular needle file after starting the Wes Door. cut with the jewelers saw. If the point is to be shaped it can Figure 5b shows the regular type setting pliers with be shaped with any flat-surfaced file. one jaw longer than the other, and are excellent for setting Bending pliers (Figure 4) are the same as watch­ prong-type settings after enough experience has allowed the makers bow pliers, used for bending and tightening pocket development of the "feel" needed. Therefore, too much pres­ watch bows. For jewelry work, they are quite versatile in the sure will not be applied to do damage to the prong or setting as well as in cases of softer stones, so no chipping of the stone will occur from over-tightening a prong. Setting pliers require very little maintenance other than lubricating the pivot points ofmoving parts and removal ofany rust or corrosion that could develop due to the environment in which they are used. Jewelry crafting and repair are truly a labor oflove for me. It fascinates me to the extent that day is done before I know it. An aspect to consider, though, is that with the knowledge and skill developed in becoming proficient in this, we must make a living, and the value of this work should not be performed for a cheap price. In order to keep more of what we charge, we can be more frugal in what we spend for tools. One example is of all the more than a hundred kinds of pliers available, the ten kinds that we have just discussed are the ones that cover 95% of my plier usage. Like many other tools we see and buy, many of them are put in a drawer, and over FIGURE4 a period of years have used only a few times. Have the tools you need, but don't waste money on what you don't need. The next article will be a discussion on the material inventory for a jewelry crafting and repair shop. D

Are You Using Your AWi Identification Mark? If Not, You Should Be! FIGURES

34 Horological Times/May 1993 Shop Talk

Wes Door, CMW

Module Retrofitting

his subject of module retrofitting has been presented to our The Swiss use model numbers in a somewhat similar manner T members in various forms over the last few years. Articles to indicate changes. For instance, the ESA 955.124 is a "day-date" have been written and seminars have been given, and it still seems to model, while a 955.414 indicates a "date only" model. be a vital part of our business. Another caution is to notice the height of the movement. The actual movement height may be the same; however, the cannon pinion THE SIMPLEST FORM: height may vary. This is referred to as the regular height or a reduced OLD & NEW MODULES ARE THE SAME cannon pinion model. This may be indicated as such by an "R" stamped The simplest form of retrofitting is the job that requires very little on the movement. However, it may not be stamped, so we need to look changing. We have (or can get) the exact module to replace the one we for all of these things. are removing from the customer's watch. The only difference is the fact If the only new movement available to us is one that does not that our new module will run and doesn't have those rust spots that were match at all, then we need to make changes which will allow it to seen in the old module. properly fit. This is what we really mean when we say "retrofitting". It sounds like we simply lift out the old movement and put in the new. We use the customer's dial and hands, but what about that SELECT THE PROPER MOVEMENT SIZE old stem? If it is rusty, then we need to change it. Actually, since a new Our first choice should be to select a movement that is the same size. stem comes with the new movement, we should choose to use the new If the old one is a 6-3/4 ligne, then it should be easy to find a movement one anyway. This leads us to a small problem. The old stem has some this size. Also, we should select one that has the proper thickness. rust and it is difficult to separate it from the crown. So, we need to Naturally, we cannot choose a new movement which is thicker than the replace the crown also. original as it will not fit into the case. We may, however, choose a The new movement stem threads are very long and must be movement which is thinner if the stem opening is in the proper place. cut (shortened) enough so that with the new crown, the length will equal the old stem and crown. If we are using a crown that is different than HANDS: ORIGINAL OR NEW the original crown, we must be careful. We may even need to get the Next we need to check hands to be sure they have ample clearance. We customer's permission is we feel we are taking too much liberty in our really need to check this clearance especially if we are using our style change. We may choose a dust proof style crown which may be a customer's hands. If we need new hands we must measure the hour shade thicker than the original. Also, we must take care not to allow the wheel post for the hour hand and the cannon pinion for the minute hand. tension of this spring-loaded crown to cause it to shift to the setting Ifwe need to fit new hands we should select them from our quartz hand position too easily. The new crown makes a nicer lookingjob; however, assortment. These hands are made lighter for quartz. Also, some of we hope we have quoted a high enough price to allow for its price. them are counterbalanced. This first example is the very easiest type of retrofitting, and yet we could have very easily omitted a crown from our estimate. DIAL FEET Ifwe are fitting a dial and find the dial feet on our customer's watch are NEW MODULE: not properly located to match the new movement, then we need to fit DIFFERENT CALIBER THAN ORIGINAL new ones. First we cut off the old dial feet. Next we need to somehow If the new quartz movement we are installing is of a different caliber, mark the exact location for the new dial feet. This can be accomplished then we may need to do additional work to retrofit. If part of the number in one of several ways. If the holes in the movement for the dial go all (or letter) is just slightly different, this may indicate a slight model the way through the movement, then we can use a small scribe or needle change. The movement will probably fit the case, and the dial most on the back side of the movement and make a scratch mark on the back likely will interchange. We need to check these very closely as there side of the dial. Then we can scribe a long "X" across this mark. may be some differences that will not allow us to use a certain Next we need to drill a small hole in the center of the twoXs. movement. Let's say, for example, our customer has a Y 480. This is an I prefera small round dental type burr for easy drilling with good control electronic set movement. A Y 481orY482 would fit the case; however, and withoutthe dangerof drilling all the way through the dial. Now we they are not electronically set so we cannot use them. The Y 481 is a select our dial feet material. I use several gauges of copper electrical sweep second model and the Y 482 does not have a sweep second hand. wire purchased from a local hardware store. I removed the insulation This last model, the Y 482, has variations indicated by a letter after the and this wire works great. Others use different materials. Even though number. Example: the Y 482C and the Y 482F are just a little different. I buy these in various sizes, I sometimes need sizes in-between these, We must watch for these different letters as they may be just a different so I draw some of this wire for these sizes. We have a little leeway most stem or some other minor change that may or may not affect us. (Please tum to page 39)

May 1993/Horological Times 35 ~ILTTABY TI~E

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI WALTHAM WRISTWATCH 6/0 Size, 9-Jewel, 1942, Model 10609 and 17-Jewel, Model 10617

NOTE: Model 10609 was also known as Model 6/0B--9 jewels; blued steel. The second dial orbits were graduated in seconds Model 10617 was known as Model 6/0B--17 jewels. See Figures with IO-second divisions indicated by numerals. Each hour 1 through 3b. numeral was accentuated by a black dot within the chapter ring. These two Waltham wristwatches were encased in Both movements were fitted with Waltham's newly either a three-piece screw back and bezel chrome-plated or base designed monometallic balance wheel and overcoil Canel hair­ metal case. On Ordnance watches, the serial number was spring. Canel was the name of Waltham's newly patented alloy engraved on the exterior back of the case. The prefix "OC" hairspring. Tue name itself, Canel, came from the two words preceded theserialnumberon the9-jewel watches, while the 17- con-stan t and e 1-asticity, because the alloy maintained a constant jewelmodels were identified by the prefix "OD." However, some elasticity with changes in temperature. Canel was rust resistant of the Ordnance's watches with 17-jewel movements were and not affected by ordinary magnetic fields. stampedORDCORPS,USA,OG-serialnumber,orORDDEPT, Waltham stated that watches with steel hairsprings and USA, OF-serial number. The 17-jewel model was also issued to bimetallic compensating balances had 24-hour temperature the Air Corps. The majority of the watches purchased by the U.S. errors which varied from -1.2 seconds to a +1.2 seconds per Navy were just stamped USN-BUSHIPS. However, several of the degree Fahrenheit change in temperature, for a total errorof2.4 contracts stipulated that a serial number be included. Later, both seconds per day. However, watches with Canel hairsprings had models were encased in waterproof cases. a total 24-temperature error of no more than 0.4 seconds per The dials on both watches had the manufacturer's degree Fahrenheit, or 1/6 the error of those fitted with steel name, and in some instances the number of jewels was indicated hairsprings. just below the twelfth hour graduation. The dials were painted Tue train bridge was stamped 6/0-B; Waltham USA, white with the hour numerals and the hour and minute hands and either 9 or 17 jewels. The movement number was stamped coated with a luminous material. The second hands were all of on the barrel bridge. O

Figure 1. Waltham wristwatch, 9-jewel, Model 10609, 6/0 size, front and back views.

36 Horological Times/May 1993 "W ALTHAi.Vf lVIonEL No. 10609 6/0s 1942 iVIodel-9 Jewel-Wrist Watch

26203 26206

26232

!!6!!02

26200

604200

0 13=> c 260~5 2621:? 26214 DD zz e 262113 26116 26009

@ g.. :;...~ 11 ==- 1079-5 \cJ 26253 260026 262!!7 2602!! 26134 1023-1024

61-L

0 26304- 26306 26308 !!6310 26055 26290 !!6298 !!6300 26302

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2226

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0 ,~, ~ - (J) ® -v-" ~ 26262 e 26254 26032 26033·-- !!6264 26073 26276 26058

60420K

60420S

Figure la (Waltham Watch Co., Waltham, MA). May 1993/Horological Times 37 "1ALTHAM MonEL No. 10617

6/0s 1942 Model - 17 Jewel - Wrist Watch

A 26203 26206

26232

26202

26200

6042011

GP c @ 0 260:15 21l212 2621-l DD zz e 26211! 26116 26009

~ @ ~ ~ \c 1079-5 26253 260026 26227°" 26022 26134 1023-102(

61-L

0 26304 26306 263011 26310 26055 26290 26298 26300 26302

c:..-- --0 ® • -=-=:::io C- ~ ~~ 261 IR 26112A 26113A 26224 26225 26131 26131F 26228

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...... @ ~ @ ~ ® 26247 2fi270 0 260611 26230- 261:13 26025 26029 26060 26234

Q QB -+- ~ i!':' (J) + 26262 26254 26032 26033 e 26073 26276 26058 26264

~-- · {.I ---~-----ooocrc.... ------~- ~------· ooo 3------1 , 60420K t__ \'------. - .------,..--.-...------J------. 60420S

Figure 2 (Wallham Watch Co., Waltham, MA). 38 Horological Times/May 1993 Figure 3 (three photos above). Waltham Model No. 10617, 6/0-B, 17-jewel Ordnance wrist­ watch. The above two watches are fitted with the same movement. Dial has "17-jewels" marked on one and not on the other. Back of case on the one marked 17-jewels engraved: ORD CORPS, USA, 00-191394. The other: ORD DEPT, USA, OF-170607, Ca. 1942.

Figure 3a (right). Waltham Model 6/0 '42, 17-jewel Ordnance wristwatch. Nonhacking, eccentric second hand, waterproof with screw­ back (Dr. G.W. Huckaba, Memphis, TN).

Figure 3b (right). Waltham Model 6/0 '42, 9-jewel Premier wristwatch, movement# 30,947,119. Nonhacking movement fitted in Wadsworth Case Co., two-piece base metal case. Back of case en­ graved: ORD DEPT, USA, OC214171 (Fred C. Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL).

removing our big X, as we need to be able to continually see this X until we are through. SHOPTALK Now we will make solder jump rings by wrapping solder (Continued from page 35) around a small needle. Then use a razor blade and make one vertical cut from top to bottom through the solder. This gives us a whole bunch of of the time, but we need a very close tolerance sometimes. This depends small pieces of jump ring-shaped solder. We place the solder over the on the watch grade and what method is used to secure the dial. Some end of our new copper wire dial feet material. Then secure this wire in watches have side dial screws and some just hold by friction or other our dial feet soldering machine. The solder will partially flow onto the methods. dial and we have one dial foot soldered in place. Repeat for the other After selecting the proper wire that fits the dial holes, we dial foot. Then we cut the new dial feet to proper length and finish the need to make a point on the end of the wire. This pointed end will go ends. into the small burr drill hole we made into the back of the dial. Check with your wholesaler for a soldering machine for these Now comes a very important step. We need to scrape the dial dial feet jobs. If not available there, I believe the plans to make one are around the drill hole area. We will just scrape a small area without still available from A WI Central. D

May 1993/Horological Times 39 Cleaning and Repairing the Quail Cuckoo Clock

Part II

A continuation of the discourse on quail cuckoo clocks, JAMES WILLIAMS which first appeared in the November '92 issue cc

ost repairers have perfected This part will not be put into Pivots M their own method for disas­ the cleaning solution, so merely Polished pivots are important. Many sembly and reassembly of various loosen the screws and remove. The technicians seem to think that any clocks, and some perhaps are mas­ quail gathering rack needs to be re­ kind of pivot will do for a clock, even ters at this. I would like to point out moved also. On the back of the rack though they take great care with all a few things to be familiar with be­ lever, there is a quail control lever other aspects of their clockwork. fore you completely disassemble this which also must be removed (Figure Rough and dry pivots can cut the clock. Always inspect warning pins, 2). bearings in a clock plate deep enough stop levers, etc. at a full rest on the Ifyou have a tool for spread­ to wedge the pivots into the bearing, quail and cuckoo sides. ing the clip, holding the quail rack causing the clock to stop just after it lever in place, remove the quail con­ has been repaired. Quail side trol rack lever and spring. Ifthe tool Sometimes a bad pivot can disassembly is not available, proceed without re­ be dressed with crocus cloth. Ex­ After noting the position of the gath­ moval. tremely bad pivots take both tools ering pin wheel with the singled pin and time to get the job done cor­ on the quail pin wheel, take the Removing the rest rectly. wheels off. Remove the quail lifting of the quail and cuckoo Various ways to polish a pivot lever and hammer. On the front of the movement, we include using a lathe with a bur­ need to remove the minute wheel, nisher and oil, lap compound with a hour wheel with snail, and the gath­ lap stick, or using a buffer, etc. Many Quail pin wheel ering rack. writers have covered pivot care. One :g· Pin positioned at 5:00 . h . . h Pin positioned at 12:00 Remove the trip lever. That's of my favorites is the article in the aua1 1 gal enng pm w ee 1 the long lever that trips on the half February '92 HT by J.M Huckabee.

AT FULL REST hour and hour for the cuckoo. Be sure to get those pivots Remove the rack springs: one polished if they are worn. Warning! on the front and one on the rear.Now Ifyou use a buffer or crocus to polish Next, remove the quail cam. carefullydrivetherackshaftthrough pivots, be sure to get them clean after Turn the minute hand shaft until the clip using your hammer. Make polishing, or the residue remaining the hour has been tripped, and no­ suretherackleverdoesnotgetstuck on them may turn into a lap and tice the position of the quail cam for on the gathering cam. Now you are damage both the pivot and bushing. the hour. You may want to mark it in ready to take off the cuckoo lifting I prefer the good old-fashioned way: some way to help remember its hour wheel, lifting levers, and the ham­ burnish the pivots to a glass-hard, position. The hour depression is mer. Remove the four nuts and take smooth finish. deeper on the cam; the difference is off the plates. minimal and may be difficult to see Assembly (Figure 1). The great wheels of the cuckoo and quail are almost the same; however, the great wheel on the cuckoo side has a screw mark on it from the lifting wheel. It will also wind the opposite direction of the quail great wheel. Here are a few things to do

------"'-\ 11''. ,, when assembling the trains, start­ Figure 1 Figure 2 ing with the cuckoo side. 40 Horological Times/May 1993 ~12:00 bellow lifting lever; 2) short bellow lifting lever; 3) hammer (Figure 7). pin 12:00 Place the rack lever and ac­ '- 10:00 slant tuating lever tension springs in posi­ tion. Place the gathering pin wheel The first wheel has a slanted and the quail pin wheel in the posi­ cam. This should be positioned at the tions as earlier illustrated. 10 o'clock position, and the pin on the Turn the minute hand shaft second wheel positioned at the 12 to trip the hour.Next, place the quail o'clock position. The gathering cam cam where it belongs (you'll be glad slot is also positioned at 12 o'clock. If if you marked it earlier!). Place the you have the gathering cam off, in­ quail gathering rack and set as de­ stall it after the train is assembled scribed in the November '92 HT. (Figures 3 and 4). Place the movement in the case and test your work. Quail side The pin on the first wheel is set at the Tips 3 o'clock position, and the pin of the 1) Don't forget to put the chains on Figure 6 second wheel is set at the 12 o'clock before putting the movement in the position. The bird locking levers go case. in front of the flaps (Figure 5). 2) Better to recover a bellow than do a poor patch job. Plates are together 3) Levers and hammers do not rest Place the rack lever in the position on the lifting wheel. with the quail actuating lever in the 4) Do not remove nails from the case rear ofthe movement. Brace the front unless it is absolutely necessary. part of the rack lever with an anvil Bend the bird wires as shown in and use a supporting stand on the Figure 8. Do not pull the nails from other edge of the movement. Do not the door. drive the washer against the plate. 5) Overstriking may be caused by a Leave a little endshake--just a little misaligned gathering pallet. (Figure 6). 6) A door that continually opens and closes while the cuckoo or quail is Placing levers and wheels activated is usually caused by the in sync wire to the door being short. If it Figure 7 Top to bottom (quail side): 1) quail keeps striking, look for trouble else­ bellow lifting lever; 2) trip lever; 3) where. bird trip; 4) hammer. Cuckoo side: 1) 7) Ifthe bellows are glued to the case, lifting wheel. Top to bottom: 1) long do not glue them back in. Screw them in using a small nail on the bottom and screw in the upper part. 8) If you need to interchange move­ ments, save the bird's lever bar ham­ mers and bellow'sliftinglevers; these items are already formed for that particular case. D Figure 8

Figure 3 See next page for schematic of the Regula25.

Figure 4 Figure 5

May 1993/Horological Times 41 •t l:.M# STOCK# ITEM# STOCK#

165·25·001 21 165·50·024 REGULA 25 MOVEMENT 165·50·002 22 165·50·025 165·50·003 23 165·50·026 165·50·004 24 165·50·027 165·50·005 25 165·50·028 165·50-006 26 165·50-029 170-60·306 27 155.so.030 165-50-031 165·25-008 28 ~33 185-25-009 29 165·50·031 30 165·50·033 10 170-60-312 17 11 165·25·011 31 165·50-034 165·50·015 32 165·50·035 12 9 13 165·25-013 33 165·50-038 14 165·25·014 34 165·50·037 l4 15 165·25·015 35 165·50-037 16 165·50-019 36 165·50-037 e 17 270-60·020 37 165·50-037 18 165·50-021 38 170·80·003 19 165·50-022 39 170·30·400 20 165·50-023 40 170·30·400

.,.... / I

( ~ l I l , I I I I I I : ~;ti I I ~1 l 1 711 I I 2S 3 I 25 l: JG I

MOVEMENT PARTS

1 plate post 21 strike rack spring 2 unlocking lever for bird 22 lever bar for bird 3 snap washer-split washers 23 spring for lever bar 4 1/2 star cam 24 minute wheel 5 strike gathering pallet 25 hour wheel and snail 6 center wheel 26 minute wheel washer 7 main wheel time side 27 gathering rack 8 first wheel time side 28 strike lifting wheel 9 escape wheel 29 screw 10 main wheel strike side 30 #2 bellow lifting lever 11 first wheel strike side 31 #1 bellow lifting lever 12 locking lever for bird 32 strike bar lever 13 second wheel strike side 33 strike hammer 14 fan 34 center shaft 15 back plate 35 minute hand bushing 16 nuts to hold plates together 36 nut 17 pallet verge 37 washer 18 strike warning lever (trip lever with flirt) 38 chain 19 lock washers 39 chain ring 20 strike rack lever (rack lever on rear has quail control) 40 chain hook

42 Horological Times/May 1993 standing jewelry or horology student at Paris Junior College, the award is presented in the form of a $1,000 certificate which can be applied to the pur­ chase of equipment through the company. PJC students eligible for the award are VIBROGRAF INTRODUCES supported on virtually frictionless bearings using the selected according to technical accomplishments, LC SERIES ULTRASONIC CLEANERS principle of magnetic levitation. It is offered in a ability, potential, display of outstanding character, Joseph Presti, President of Vibrograf USA Corp., metallic grey conical case complemented by a positive personality, and financial need. announced the introduction of a new series of unique dial design. This new mantel clock is the first Other nominees for the award were Su­ Vibrograf ultrasonic cleaners for jewelers and watch­ to be introduced with a design theme keyed to slow san Roberts, Ginger Sowell, Daniel Robertson, and makers. and precisely controlled motion. Eduardo Martinez. The LC series of cleaners has been The Seiko clock collection is available introduced to offer the user an all-stainless steel through the Seiko nationwide sales force. Or con­ machine at an affordable price. Powerful cleaning is tact: Seiko Time, 1111 Macarthur Blvd., Mahwah, achieved with industrial transducers. The LC-30H NJ 07430; (201) 512-3000. model (in photo below) has a 3-quart capacity and Seiko comes with timer and heat. For further information, contact: Joseph Presti, Vlbrograf USA, 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001-1696; (516) 437-8700.

Phyllis Bannister (center). a jewelry student at Paris Junior College, receives the Swest Award for Excellence. Pre­ senting the award are Darrell Warren (right), corporate director of sales and marketing for Swest; at left is PJC's Jewelry Department acting chair Jerry Waters.

RETAIL SALES GO SKY-HIGH WITH INSURANCE-BACKED WEATHER PROMOTIONS Customized Worldwide Weather Insu ranee Agency, AMERICAN REPRINTS inc. recently announced that their clients reported a HAS NEW TOLL-FREE NUMBER welcome increase in retail sales ranging from 10% American Reprints Company, a book seller dealing to as much as 50% during the 1992 holiday shopping season. Vibrograf USA in a wide range of horological books and price guides, is offering toll-free telephone service from all The clients showing increases were all involved in Worldwide Weather's newest promo­ KASSOY INTRODUCES NEW 50 states. The number is (800) 854-8639. tional concept: advertising programs incorporating POCKET MICROSCOPE weather insurance as a sales and marketing tool. This portable, powerful pocket microscope is perfect Businesses that have been especially hard-hit by for colored stones. Compact, it consists of glass ESSLINGER WILL DISPLAY the recession--such as jewelers, ski shops, furriers, lens, durable body, and zoom adjustment system. It WEDDING REMOUNTS etc. --all reported strong sales gains using Worldwide's has 16X to30X magnification, and gives clear, sharp Esslinger & Company has announced that it will unique program. images (not recommende_d for diamonds). Its total unveil two new jewelry lines during the Jewelry '93 A typical weather promotion for the 1992 size is 12 x 130mm, and it retails for $49.95. show, June 5-8, 1993 in Las Vegas, NV. The new holiday season went as follows: Customers pur­ For more information, contact: Kassoy, lines consist of precious stone wraps, engagement chasing Items during a specified time period re­ 16 Midland Avenue, Hicksville, NY 11801; (800) 4- rings, and wedding remounts. The company will also ceived a full purchase price refund if snowfall ex­ KASSOY; in NY state call (516) 942-8517. be showing othernew additions along with its regular lines. ceeded six inches on Christmas Eve. "Weather Esslinger will also offer a free drawing for insurance is such a unique and versatile productthat a Jewelry PhotoMaster Automatic Spectra camera it seemed only natural to use it in an unusual way,'' during the show; no purchase necessary. Their said Harold Mollin, founder and president of World­ booth is #L96-98. wide Weather. "Businesses need to be especially For more information: Esslinger & Co., creative to survive during a recession and take 1165 Medallion Drive, St. Paul, MN 55120; (612) advantage of every possibility available--even those 452-7180; fax (612) 452-4298. of Mother Nature,'' he adds. Worldwide Weather, founded in 1988, with 1992 revenues of$8 million, is the only nation­ Kassoy BANNISTER RECIPIENT OF ally licensed full-service weather in~urance agency SWEST AWARD AT PJC in the world offering protection that is underwritten by a U.S. insurance carrier. Worldwide regularly indem­ SEIKO'S NEW MAGNETIC Phyllis Bannister of Marysville, WA was the recipient nifies film and video production companies against LEVITATION CLOCK of Swest's Award for Excellence, given recently at adverse weather; provides coverage for the promot­ Seiko combines technology and style in a strikingly Paris Junior College by Darrell Warren, corporate ers of outdoor sports events, festivals and fairs. For unique way with a new cone-shaped mantel clock. director of sales and marketing for Swest Corpora­ more information, contact Worldwide Weather at An eye-catching transparent ring near the peak of tion. (516) 466-5757; fax (516) 466-5754. the cone slowly rotates at a shifting angle and a Given twice a year (in the Spring and the constant speed. The ring's moving assembly is Fall semesters) by Swest Corporation to an out 0 May 1993/Horological Times 43 REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.70 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1 /4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. July issue closes for copy on June 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE CLOCK WHEEL & PINION Overhauled with a CUTIING three-year (3) warranty on all labor QUICK SERVICE SEND FOR PRICE LIST MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC Jim DuBois 330 Rte 101 1326 Stanford Street ENGLISH CERTIFIED WATCHMAKER Amherst, NH 03031 (603)673-3645 Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 Repair, restoration of antique, and modern Established in 1982 & AWi Trained watches quartz/mechanical. Experienced in Please Call (310) 828-6707 CHRONOGRAPHS. Graduate WOSTEP Swit­ FACTORY-CERTIFIED zerland. JONATIIAN ROWE, Phone (607) 775- ROLEX SERVICE 3302, c/o Time Master Service Center, 1290 Master Watchmaker, 44 years experience. Cer­ CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, Front St., Suite 125, Binghamton, NY 13901. tified Rolex specialist. Only genuine materials rebushing . REP AIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, used. Service including case, bracelet refinish­ pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, ing & W.P. High-grade watches our specialty. N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho CLOCK REPAIR Ask for Alvin; (203) 792-4539. 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. Quality repair or restoration of mechanical clocks. Fast, friendly service. All work guaran­ teed. Call or send SASE for free price list, (904) WATCH REPAIR TRADE SHOP. 6 new ac­ DIALREFINISWNGCO.FASTSERVICE, 386-5498. Fax available. Jeff Hamilton, 2656 counts. Price list & references available. (413) FINEST QUALI'IY, quantity works welcome. Byron Circle, Tallahassee, FL 32308. 736-9642. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: r------, KIRK DIAL OF SEA'ITLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., ENGLISH CLOCKMAKER. I have 39 years Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. I experience in restoring French and English I carriage clocks. Also making parts for plat­ I form escapements. Staffs, cylinders, pinions, CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, repivoting, etc. JOHN BARRS, 3924 S.W. material and tools. Custom made to order or I 12 i Holden St., Seattle, WA 98136; (206) 935-0596. repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog I 'll 2 · $2.00. TANIENGINEERING,Box338,Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. I • ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR I • -· I ·a CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral •• or heavy plastic c:rystal. One-day turnaround. I Call or write for price list. D & H C:rystal Co., QUARTZ CONVERSIONS BEFORE AFTER 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; I (919) 889-0148. WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? [ Quartz Conversions NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? Diamond Dial Conversions SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA I Emblem & Name Personalization CRYSTALS -- FLAT GLASS FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT [ Cut and Fitted AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. Write for Brochures Complete Material Supply House 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. I INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Old and New Material SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. I 58 W. SUGARTREE Crystals of all Shapes and Sizes ALFONSO ZAMORA P.O. BOX970 BALTl MORE HOROLOGICAL 280 PRESIDIO PLACE I & JEWELERS SUPPLIES WILMINGTON, OH 451 n BUFFALO, NY 14221 5662 Baltimore National Pike Baltimore, MD 21228 [ (513) 382-4535 (716) 633-6138 L------...J (410) 744-6658 Fax (410) 455-9621 44 Horological Times/May 1993 Service & Restoration of Fine Watches ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE • Antique • Vintage • Complicated We are Factory Authorized Service for: • Pocket • Wrist * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP Custom Staffs, Parts * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes a ultrasonics, all makes a watch rate Send for Brochure recorders, and related equipment 25 years experience. William E. Botkin, C.MW., C.M.B. H. I. JACK PHILLIPS 5510 S.Proctor Rd. • Muncie, IN 47302 ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 The ultimate mate for the CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTI'ING, For Information Call (415) 453-9266 Sc:hohl Crystal Cutting Machine RETOOTIIING, AND OTIIER CUSTOM 5-inch diamond wheel grinds quickly WORK.Movements overhauled w1th2-year without heat or buildup. A light spray guarantee. All work done by a CMC or a of Windex is all that's needed. CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S Spl"ings for wristwatch expanding b1·ace­ lets. Any size and design. 24-hour turn­ Specs: 10" x 5-1/2" base, 7" height CLOCK SHOP, 125 Ganttown Rd., Horizontal 5" diamond wheel, 600 gr~ Turnersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1539. a1·ound service. W.E. Benjamin Co., Inc., 240 R.P.M. P.O. Box 1667, Boston, MA 02105. Eiectricel: 115volt, BOhz, 1.2emp. 1/2" hole for arbor in grinding wheel POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, Weight: Approx. 13 lbs. hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR­ 2-week trial offer, money back Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON D/A wheel available separately Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Call (814) 692-2285. (616) 842-6025 or Fax (616) 842-2198

TIIE MORTICIAN CUTI'ERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ NO COMEBACKS ions. Module 0.2to 1.0. Constant profile produc­ HERMLE MOVEMENTS: Lowest prices in U.S. We correct past mistakes and bury them. Spe­ ingtraditionalsquare bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. Factory fresh, 2-year warranty. Butterworth cializing in wheel work, repivoting, making of Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Muscatine, IA parts, Atmos clock service for over 50 years, and beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All 52761; 1-800-258-5418. antique pocket watches. Repeaters, Audemars cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Piguet, Piaget, Rolex, and Quartz Conversions. Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also All work guaranteed 2 years and done by Jo­ cutter grindingwheels, Grit and CBN. Send for seph Small II, CMW & Associates; (713) 561- Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: 5147. P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele­ ITHACA CALENDAR CLOCK CO., phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. INC. New calendar movements. Com­ plete restoration of lthacas. 1-year @IfIJ;:JJIWBB.t~f.~~lmiiL4M&1\t warranty. Old Ithaca Calendar Clocks Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases) Will repair one free and keep the other for sale. 2009 Dryden Rd., Freeville, HAMILTON 505 CELL STRAPS NY 13068. (607) 347-6661, 1 0-3. $5 each - minimum order of 3 6 for $25- 12 for $40 George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky Chestnut Hill, MA (617)332-7363 CLOCK WHEELAND PINION CUTTING Fast service -- Write for free Bro­ chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698. VibrografBlOOA, $250.00; L&R Varimatic Ul­ trasonic, $600.00; Mastermatic, $100.00; Master, $50.00; 3 lathes with accessories; Boley MURPHY'S staking set, $85.00; bench, $150.00; large, like new dust collector with motor, $250.00. Ken The DRY-SEE 8800™ Features: CRYSTAL SERVICE Waldhom (313) 399-3067. • Swiss made by SIGMA •Auto start FAST -- QUALITY WORK • Measuring time of 1 to 90 seconds • Pressure test of 0.5 to 10 bar (333 feet) 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. * GRIFFIN WATCH COMPANY •Automatic Low, High or Combination tests Complete crystal fitting service * 8 Truell Rd ., Amherst, NH 03031 •Small size: 8 1/4"X11 "x9" -Weighs 13 lbs. for new and old wrist and pocket (603) 889-5617 • Includes air compressor (not shown) watches. Specializing in Older Harder to Find Parts and CALL FOR FREE BROCHURE CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST Movements. Over 15,000 Movements in stock. PHONE (209) 576-8865 Crystal Fitting Reasonable Rates 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. 1-800-275-4687 Buying Accumulations of Watch Movements, SUPERIOR WATCH CO. MODESTO, CA 95355 Parts and Material

May 1993/Horological Times 45 ·suPER CLOCK CALc· At last! A computer program for clockmakers. * Clock timer arithmetic COMPUTER-AIDED TIMING MACIIlNE * Metric/English conversions With a touch ofthe computer keyboard, you can * Pendulum calculations Laurie Penman's Correspondence Course in display information on the screen that lets you * Wheel module calculations Clock Repair offers a choice of payment plans know just how well your clock or watch is * Gear train calculations and more and 13 bench packs in all. Don't put it off any longer. Write today for free 1992-93 catalog working. Detects fast or slow, in beat or out, and * Professionally programmed and with sample lesson. Steven G. Conover, USA problems with balance wheel or escape wheel. documented. This unit is essential for all repair shops! Free Course Agent, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, IBM and Compatibles Only. Specify 3-1/2' or PA 19607. brochure. Write H&S Technical Systems, Inc., 5-1/4' disks. $20 plus $2.50 s&h. Money-back Rd. 2, Box 2005, Underhill, VT 05489 or call guarantee. Dealer inquiries invited. John's (802) 434-4328 or (802) 899-4324. Clocks, P.O. Box 263, Minatare, NE 69356; (308) 783-1358. JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL EQUIPMENT: L&R Master 3-jar cleaner, 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 $99.95; Watchmaster WT Ultrasonic Cleaner, Phone (718) 424-2929 $395; Portescap Mark V, $950; VibrografMU- HIGHEST QUALI1Y 700, $950; New Hermes Inside Ring Engraver, CLOCKMAKING TOO~ Quality Instruction Since 1945 $500; New Hermes Universal Engraver, $1895; 6 from Vibrograf B-200A, $995; L&R Ultrasonic Con­ J. M. Wild, England WATCHMAKING sole Cleaner, $350. Otherwatchmakers,j ew­ Depthing Tool - Mainspring Winder (17 months) elers, and engraving equipment available! Lathe File Rest - Fingerplate Clamp WATCH REPAIR Send SASE for our tool and equipment list. Milling Spindle - Repivoting Tool/Jacot Drum (9 and 13 months) Watches Etc., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, Skeleton Clock Kit JEWELRY REPAIR OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. Fine Quality Cast Brass Spandrels/Mounts BASIC ELECTRONICS Michael M. Ambrosino Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation 33-67 165th Street - Flushing, NY 11358 NATTS approved, BEOG available CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD Catalogues $12.00 CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Save time, money, and work re-covering bellows. Easler than replacing. For Informa­ LEATHER WATCH STRAPS@ $1.00 EACH. tion, send business-size SASE to: ALSO RING GUARDS, SPRING BARS, ETC. JANDi GOGGIN FAX/PHONE (516) 933-2143. FOR ORDER Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 FORM WRITE TO FLORO DISTRIBUTOR, 209 FLORAL AVE., PLAINVIEW, NY 11803. The Clock R,epairer's Handbook by Laurie NOW AVAILABLE Penman, $34.95 postpaid, from Clockmakers MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed Newsletter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ An affordable machine that makes any shape 19607. PA residents only, add 6% tax. See antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. mineral glass watch crystal in minutes in your Henry Fried's review in the March issue of Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. own shop, for approximately 75¢ each. Horological Times. HALL CLOCKSHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Char­ lotte, NC 28205.

USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP­ MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, AND RELATED ITEMS. Write or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shopping Our trade shop is looking for an experienced Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495- watchmaker. Must be able to repair quartz and 2471. mechanicals. Please send resume and salary requirements to: Pollak Watch Service, Inc., 13910 Cedar Road, Cleveland, OH 44118; (216) 932-2500; 1-800-878-3185; Fax (216) 831-8649. H.ABE Traces the bezel shape directly onto the min­ USED WATCH MOVEMENTS eral glass material with a diamond cutting 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 point. Break off and lightly sand or grind. 220 wet sandpaper, available at your local hard­ Mr. Watchmaker -- If you have a problem ware store, works great. finding parts for older watches, badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, we may be able to High-grade watch and clockmaker with 22years Ask your supplier for the help you. We have lots of movements for parts experience looking for position in pleasant work­ Schohl Crystal Cutting Machine at reasonable prices. Some suitable for re­ ing environment. I have very good retail expe­ or placement. If not satisfactory you may return. rience. If interested, write or call: M. Kuhns, Call (616) 842-6025 direct Phone (301) 463-6595 12800 Vonn Rd. #7504, Largo, FL 34644; (813) 593-1650.

46 Horological Times/May 1993 Young watchmaker from Finland seeks em­ ployment in USA. Professionally trained in GAMEWELL WANTED Finland and Switzerland (WOSTEP). Able to do Watches Wanted all types ofrepairs and restorations. Now work­ Fire department clocks ing in Germany. Contact: Marko Pasonen, and gongs by Gamewell or Crane. Strassbargar Str. #9, Apt 212C, Miinchen 40, Gary S. Carino, 805 West 3rd St., Germany. Tel. 49-89-3517319 or in USA (215) 688-1643. Duluth, MN 55806; (218) 722-6565.

Watchmaker with 10 years experience looking for full-time job in Boston area. References available. (617) 566-0078. WANTED: Chronograph movements. Will pay: Valjoux 22, 23, 71, 72, $75-$125; Valjoux 72C, We desperately need for our retail $200; Valjoux 730, $150; Valjoux 69, $300; customers fine watches by: Valjoux 7733, $20; Venus Split 179, $1000; Longines 13ZN, 13.33, $300; Movado 90-95, Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, $250; Universal $150-$300; Ex. Pk. $75; Split Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. Chrono. P .W., $200 up. Will buy parts, cases, dials, and other chronographs. Esembl-0-Graph We are paying top prices for any high Books, will pay $175 set. Dean Sarnelle, 25 quality, unusual or complicated West Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; (703) Complete Clement Master Watchmakers Lathe Wrist or Pocket Watches outfit in good working condition. Garri 885-6064. Shevelenko, P .0. Box 08756-3492, Toms River, When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch NJ 08756; (908) 214-8860 or (908) 349-6835. Derbyshire Micro Milling Machine Gear & Pin­ Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 ion Cutters and Compound & Milling Attach­ In Texas 1-214-902-0664 ments for Boley, WW, & Derbyshire. Joseph WANTED - TEMPO 400 CLEANING MA­ Always prompt immediate payment! CHINE, NEAR MINT. (313) 884-4896. Small II (713) 561-5147. Wingate's Quality Watches P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 WANTED: Will pay up to $500 for Rolex Eazy Opener. Also need Rolexcrystal press and Rolex BUYING accumulations ofwatchmaking too ls, movements, cases, dials, etc. We also buy watch­ watch material, watches, movements, and all makers tools and equipment, pocket watches, related items. Prefer entire lots. Will travel. and wristwatches. Single items or complete Ken Waldhorn, 13148 Borgman, Huntington collections. Watches Etc., 5934 N.W. 39th, Woods, MI 48070; (313) 399-3067. Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824.

We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any EARLYHOROLOGICALTOOIBWANTED. amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, Wheel cutting engines, lathes with orig. wood Tell a silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment boxes, fusee engines, early books, rare clocks return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: (especially floor clocks), and related items. Shops AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King bought. Greg McCreight, 1336 Allentown Rd., St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ Lima, OH 45805; (419) 229-4349. Friend lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073.

RETIRING? I need to buy watchmakers tools II and related items. I will pay your price, in About II WANTED most cases. Call collect, Tom Mister (800) 446- II * Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar 8094. Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) movements. I buy entire collections, estates, * Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service AWi··· watchmakers' inventories. Over 32years expe­ Sets, Etc. rience of honest and reliable confidential trans­ I * Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, actions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) Hills, CA 90210; (310) 826-7778. CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 and We'll

SPECIALTY METALS REFINING COMPANY Pocket& Wristwatches Wanted Dead or Alive! Ameri­ 10 Bay Street can Waltham, Illinois, Howard, Keywinds, Gold, Keep On Westport, CT 06880 Early American, Chronometers, Repeaters, Patek Philippe, Vacheron, Unusual, Historical, Fusees. Members: Better Business Bureau CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-23J-BUNN or Write: Maundy Jewelers Board r:i Trade International, P.O. Box 13028-H, Overland Park, Ticking ... Ron Fried OLJ" 97th Consecutive HJ President Kansas 66212.

May 1993/Horological Times 47 MAY 1993 17-20-Cross Slide Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 25 Roy Hovey, instructor; Orange County, CA.* Borel Co ...... 5 8-9--Basic Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; New York, NY.* 18-Mechanical Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Tucson, AZ..* Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover 15-16--Lathe Accessories Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; New York, NY.* 18-19-400-Day aock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Tucson, AZ..* DRS, lnc ...... 9 21-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Dal­ 18-19-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course las/Ft. Worth, TX.* (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; New Orleans, Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover LA.* Euro Tool ...... 25 21-23--Texas Watchmakers Association Conven­ Eveready Watch Batteries ...... 7 tion, Green Oaks Inn, 6901 W. Freeway, Ft. Worth, 19-Staffing & Escapements Bench Course (AWi); TX76116. James Lubic, instructor; Tucson, AZ..* Gem City College ...... 33 JUNE 1993 25-26--Hairspring Vibrating Bench Course (AWi); Joseph Cerullo, instructor; Pittsburgh, PA.* 4-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench S. LaRose, Inc ...... 23 Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Ra­ OCTOBER 1993 Livesay's, Inc ...... 31 leigh, NC. 1-3-New York Watchmakers Association Con­ 4-6-North Carolina Watchmaker's Association vention, Holiday Inn, Seneca Falls-Waterloo, NY. Mccaw Co., V./m. S...... 15 Annual Convention; Holiday Inn North; Raleigh, NC. For detailed information call Alice Carpenter 8-10-lllinois State Watchmakers Convention; (919) 823-2944. Clock Tower Inn; Rockford, IL. For more informa­ Olson, J. D...... 3 tion contact: Jack Donovan, 124 North St., Nor­ 25-AWI Affiliate Chapter Meeting, Radisson Inn, mal, IL 61761. Plymouth Watch Material Co ...... 27 Greater Cincinnati Airport.. Contact AWi Central for more information. 16-17-Hairspring Vibrating Bench Course (AWi); Precision Crystal Cutting Co ...... 25 Joseph Cerullo, instructor; Denver, CO.* 26-27-AWI Annual Board of Directors Meeting, S & G Industries ...... 33 Radisson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. Contact 23-25-Florida State Watchmakers Association AWi Central for more information. Convention, Ramada Hotel Resort, West Palm SMEA ...... 21 Beach, FL. 28-30-Basic Watch Repair Bench Course (AWJ); Toledo Jewelers ...... 27 James Lubic, instructor; Dallas, TX.* 24--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Aus­ Twin City Supply Co ...... 29 tin, TX.* JULV1993 Vibrograf USA ...... 19 30-31-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course 23-25-Watchmakers Association of Ohio Con­ (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Arlington, TX.* vention, Park Hotel, Columbus, OH. Witschi Electronics ...... 17 30-31-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); 24-25-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Course James Williams, instructor; Minneapolis/St. Paul, (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Salt Lake MN.* Zantech ...... 11 City, UT.* NOVEMBER 1993 AUGUST1993 r 5-8-Cross Slide Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Roy 15-Basic Pocket Watch Bench Course (AWi); Hovey, instructor; New York, NY.* Alice Carpenter, instructor; Pittsburgh, PA.* 6-7-Striking Oocks Bench Course (AWi); John 21-22-Striking Clocks Bench Course (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Salt Lake City, UT.* Nagle, instructor; Austin, TX.* 13-14-Hairspring Vibrating Bench Course (AWi); 21-22-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course Joseph Cerullo, instructor; Austin, TX.* (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Seneca Falls, NY.* *For more Information on AWi Bench Courses, Project 22-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Extend, and Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Nash­ P. 0. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH ville, TN.* 45211; (513) 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131.

SEPTEMBER 1993

17-19-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Des Moines, IA.*

48 Horological Times/May 1993 100 Piece Mineral 32 Piece 399 Piece Glass Sliding Br. O·Ring Crystals Top~ Cla~sps Gaskets $6§95 ~ggs $Jg9s

A complete,_ selection fpr tocf:ay'$ thin quartz watches as well as for : nlO,$t roechaQical and diy:~r 1$: .vitat(hes.· - · ... :.r \ ·- · - O uffi~W . CK-133 assortment Is one of the fn .o~t comprehensive 0 -ring gasket .~ssof1mel)fs rel~ased 'in severalyear:s. lt cc>v.e!'S bot_h trin 9a.skets for modern ciu,a~ w~t~h~ aS' ..ven 'a$ for ll)Qst .older mechanical.watches that use Q, ring .gaskets: Th-e'"is~~ rtmeflt contains th r~.~ each of 133 SiJ:.es of Cas.Ker bra~d 0,rlng gask.eti, 399 totat Comes ' in a ~onv~i.tl ~t hingedJid box with a . 1iSt1rr9 9Hh1c~ness and .1nsh:te anc.f · outs lde ,' dia~ters qf e~c:h number, ·Asst. 'CK-133 · · $39.95 Rdills u , =:. $1..;25/i $.3.SOdz :· ~ _- j . .. E~di as#>rtment ... {nclut!f1s !1-. ~on.lklJ::: . ,'if: :ient hin,ge1U~fl . : ,W/~ ; container .Whim . Cas-~Co.. . - " - holds. up to iti

PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES FOR 1993 Contact AWi Central for the General Information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you.

May3-7 Clock Ill David Christianson Aug.16-21* Lathe I Roy Hovey (antique restoration) (basic) May 10-14 Watch VI Allee Carpenter Aug. 23-28* Lathe II Roy Hovey (basic pocket watches) (advanced) June7-12* Lathe I Roy Hovey Sept.13-17 Watch Caae Repair M. Richmond (basic) Sept.20-24 Clock I James LaChapelle June 14-19- Lathe II Roy Hovey (basic) (advanced) Sept. 27-0ct.1 Clock VI John Nagle July 19-24* Lathe I Roy Hovey Oct. 4-8 Clock II Roland Iverson (basic) Oct. 11-15 Clock Caee Repair James Wllllama July 26-31* Lathe II Roy Hovey Oct. 25-29 ClockV Jamee Lubic (advanced) (CMC Prep) • 6-day class • 6-day class