N The Inquirer | SUNDAY, NOV. 15, 2015 |PHILLY.COM|A

In the Transylvania region of Romania, the town of Sibiu,likeVenicewithout canals, waspicked in 2008 by Forbes magazine as among idyllic places to liveinEurope. LARISSA MILNE

TheTransfagarasan offersadventurous driversascenic connection between In the center of Bucharest, the Romanian Athenaeum orchestrahall is among ornate Bucharestand Transylvania, with 56 miles of hairpin turns and abysses. MICHAEL MILNE domed buildings thatdecades of communistdictatorship did not destroy. MICHAEL MILNE Enchanting secrets of Romania

By Larissa and MichaelMilne By Larissa and MichaelMilne In sections of FOR THE INQUIRER Transylvania, an FOR THE INQUIRER UCHAREST,Romania —This isn’tthe RANSYLVANIA, Romania —The two- Bucharest, once first city Americans think of visiting on a ideal destination through the Carpathian Mountains European vacation. During the Iron Cur- twisted under acanopy of pines, but we called “Little Paris,” tain years, Romania was an elusory coun- for a road trip from were no longer climbing. The hairpin turn grand architecture, try known for turning out Olympic gym- Bucharest, unfolds sloped gently downward, while occasional Bnasts and for steering an independent, yet totalitar- Tbreaks in the forest offered glimpses of awide, ian, course from the rest of the Soviet Bloc.Tour- verdant valley with acastle clinging to ahill in the culture, artistry ism was not apriority. with rich tales of distance. Welcome to Transylvania. The breach of the Berlin Wall in 1989 set off a This plateau, settled by the Saxons in the Middle have survived chain of relatively peaceful transitions to freedom history — beyond Ages, was once part of the mighty Austro-Hungari- through most of Eastern Europe. Romania, howev- an Empire. The region became part of Romania in communist rule. er,endured violent protests in which more than “Dracula.” the aftermath of World WarI,yet retains much of 1,000 people were killed, leading to the Christmas its Teutonic heritage. Day execution of dictator Nicolae Ceausescu and Transylvania is an ideal destination for aroad his wife, Elena. Since then, Westernershave trip from Bucharest. Visitors can spend aweek flocked to Prague, Budapest, and Berlin —the “it” exploring the region’svillages, so untouched after See BUCHAREST on N4 See TRANSYLVANIA on N4

PERSONAL U.S. ghosttowns: From JOURNEY | N3 boom to busttodust

By Jill Schensul known as ghost towns. HACKENSACK RECORD All were places once booming, places ere in the desert, nothing moves. the dreamers moved heaven and earth Nothing but the dust in the wind to get to. They came for atreasure, a H and maybe the occasional lizard, mother lode, an impossibility made doing push-ups on arock in the shade true.Onarumor, throughthe grape- of amesquite bush. Here, the ghosts of vine, at great peril to life and limb, the American West hold forth. they came. Pioneers, lone men, hard Not the average creepy individual men,with determinationornothing ghosts, the vengeful murder victims, left to lose, who came and laid claims, and the peripatetic poltergeists. These and picked up shovels and planted dy- Theall-terrain are the ghosts whose skeletons are the namite. The hard times may have tak- crumbled bones of buildings, whose en decades, but only years to draw to paradise of Kauai. headstonesare the signsbleached illeg- disastrous ends. iblebythe sun.These are the phan- The towns were all the evidence that toms of places that have come to be See GHOSTS on N3 WEB BUZZ | N2

Outside the ghosttownofRhyolite, oncethe biggesttowninsouthern , “The Take aroad trip LastSupper”greets visitorsatGoldwell Open Air Museum. JILL SCHENSUL /Hackensack Record in your e-vehicle.

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Continued from N1 ed it; rather,the entire hill decades of communist town was walled for pro- rule that they seem pur- tection. Nine 15th-century loined from an illustrated guild towers, each attribut- book of children’sfairy ed to aparticular trade tales. Through the ages, such as blacksmithing and Transylvania protected it- tailoring, stood at strate- self against invaders, who gic locationsaround the came up against towns perimeter.Much like mod- guarded overbycastles ern-day volunteer firefigh- and shielded by walls and tersrespondingtoan towers, villages clustered alarm, if the town was un- around reinforced church- der attack, the guild mem- es,even afortifiedroad bers headed to their re- Sighisoara, the reputed birthplaceofVlad the Impaler, through the mountains spective towers to fend off who inspired the 19th-century novel“Dracula.” MICHAEL MILNE known today as one of the the invaders. world’sgreatest drives. The most marvelous is the journey back to Bucha- “Statue of Electricity,” it Our first stopwas Ras- the robust,stone clocktow- restvia the legendary hearkens back to atime of nov Fortress, the hillside er that occupiespride-of- Transfagarasan Highway, massive industrial projects castle we had seen place at the main entry to selected by the BBC pro- in the socialist world. through the trees. Built in theupper village gate. Visi- gram TopGear as one of The Transfagarasan can the 14th century,the par- tors can climb to the top of the world’sgreat drives. cause afew testy mo- tially restoredstructure the clocktowerfor apan- The road was built in ments between the driver conjures up images of ev- oramicview over the or- the early 1970s by order of and the passenger,who ery Robin Hood movie ange-tile rooftops. After- former dictator Nicolae sits on the outer edge star- ever made. We half expect- ward, stroll along the ram- Ceausescu, apparently as ing downinto afew ran- ed Errol Flynn to come partsthat connect the re- Forapanoramic viewofSighisoara, in Transylvania, amonument to himself. domly placed abysses. leaping over one of the mainingguild towers. In visitorscan climb to the topofastone clock towernear Beginning in alpinefor- Upon reaching the end of ramparts. Perched over the evening, car is the main entry to the upper village gate. MICHAEL MILNE ests,itreaches ahigh the road, we were pretty the town of the same prohibited, and carts roll- meadow where the high- pleased that it didn’tcre- name,itofferssweeping ing overthe the complex, builtatop that surround about a way looks as if it were laid ate so much stress that we views of the surrounding alleywaysemit the percus- 35-foot walls, includes the third of the historic sec- out by aderanged civil en- had to make use of the valley. sive beat of adrum circle, wonderfully named “Matri- tion. The sylvan area be- gineer.Although the road MatrimonialPrisonback Outside the castle, a echoing off the surround- monial Prison.” In medi- tweenthe rampartspro- is only 56 miles long, it in Biertan. group of hungry visitors ing buildings. evaltimes, divorce was vides achestnut-tree-lined boasts dozens of hairpin ¢ lined up by avendor selling Sighisoara is the reput- not permitted, so clashing for strolling or turns and switchbacks (we Transylvania tips: fresh Kürtoskalács, or ed birthplace of Vlad the couples were locked into sitting on apark bench to lost count) that resemble a yFor car rental, Emer- “chimney cakes,” made by Impaler,who inspired the this one-room cottage fur- watch the world go by. serpentine pathway of gi- ald Auto offers competi- rolling dougharound a 19th-century novel Dracu- nished with one table, one The town is like Venice ant spaghettinoodles. tive rates and free pickup wooden cylinder,grilling it la.Fortunately,the town chair,one fork, and one —without the canals. An Drivers soon note adearth and drop-off at the airport. over glowing coals, then roll- hardly plays on that bed untilthey,well, got exploration of ambling of guardrails as the road www.emerald-auto.ro. ing it in sugar.Once re- kitschy connectionatall along. Reportedly, this paths that seem to go no- climbs to its peak of al- yFor lodging, Fronius movedfrom the cylinder, —arelief because it is a methodoftough love where yields festive plazas most 6,700 feet to reach Residence in Sighisoara is the hollow“chimney” is beautiful village in its own achieved an almost-per- fullofcolorful cafeumbrel- the pristine glacial waters old enough to have sur- steamy and yeasty on the in- right, without need of gim- fect success rate. las flapping in the gentle of Bâlea Lake. vived the fire of 1676. This side, crispy-sweet on the out- mickry to attract visitors. Our final stop, Sibiu, breeze. Set on multiple lev- The down stretch toward nonsmoking boutique ho- side. Finding this most-Hun- Afew miles west, tucked was among the largest of els, many of Sibiu’sbuild- Bucharest provides one of tel is in the heart of the garian of treats in the Roma- downacountrylane, is the Saxon towns. Picked ings are supported by fly- the highlights of the trip: Old Town. www.fronius-res- nian heartland was afur- the village of Biertan.Itof- by Forbes magazinein ing buttresses thatarc The road crosses the idence.ro. ther reminder of Transylva- fers an excellent example 2008 as one of the most over walkways —asort of 540-foot-high Vidraru yIn Sibiu, the Pensiu- nia’samalgamous heritage. of afortified church, idyllic placestolive in Eu- architectural version of a Dam, one of the largest in nea La Rezidenta is anon- Tw ohours northwest of where the citizenry sought rope,Sibiufeatures adou- human pyramid deployed Europe. Ashiny metal stat- smokinghotel tucked Rasnov,the village of Sighi- refuge during attacks. ble set of stone and by circus acrobats. ue of Prometheus wielding away in aquiet residential soara takes “fortified” to a Along with an impressive wallsfromthe 14th FromTransylvania, in- alightning bolt oversees it. neighborhood. www.larezi- new level. No castle guard- 15th-century sanctuary, through 17th centuries trepid road-trippers make Known colloquially as the denta.ro.

of the Romanian Commu- nist Party.The building Bucharest has afeature popular with totalitarian regimes: a grand balcony for making Continued from N1 bit of Middle Eastern influ- grand proclamations. spots to visit in the former ence sprinkled in —still Ceausescu delivered his fi- communist countries. beckons. nal speech fromthatbalco- But Romania has been Avenues are lined with ny in December 1989. keeping asecret:Itpro- ornatedomedbuildings. Fueled by the fall of the vides atrueEuropean trav- Cafe tables and wicker Berlin Wall, rumblings of el experience at prices chairs sproutfromwide change wereechoing in reminiscent of the 1960s. on sunny days. Romania. During the Those who onceroamed Bakeriesselling Tu rkish- speech, the crowd turned the continent with dog- style breads populatevir- on the dictator,leading to eared copies of Europe on tuallyeveryblock.Don’t protests that were met by $25 aDay would feel right miss the covrigi, sunflow- government gunfire. The at home here. er-and poppy-seed-stud- resulting revolution was Bucharest, the capital, dedpretzels; in keeping brief but bloody.The flee- was known as “Little Par- with Romania’sgood tour- ing Ceausescu and his is” during La Belle ist value, they sell for only wife were executed within Époque —“the Beautiful 25 cents. days. Era” of prosperity,scientif- The best place to get a Today,rotating art exhib- ic advances,artistic ac- handle on Romania’s histo- its fill the square, and the complishments —ofthe ry and geographic influ- pylon of the Memorial of late 19th and early 20th ences is the NationalMu- Rebirth honoring the fall- centuries. The decades of seum of Old Maps and en pierces the sky.The ad- communist dictatorship Books. The collection of Thenighttime dining scene in Bucharest’sOld Town, apedestrian-friendly cobblestone jacent former Royal Pal- that followed were marred former PrimeMinister warren of boutiques, restaurants, and bars not yetoverrun by tourists. LARISSA MILNE ace is now the National by attemptstorend Bucha- AdrianNastase and his Museum of Art of Roma- rest’sarchitectural fabric wife, Daniela, resides in a in stone at the base of its nia, featuringRomanian and replace it with face- grand old home at 39 Stra- dome, among themMo- artists along with such old less apartment and office da Londra, in aquiet, leafy liere, Beethoven, and Phil- masters as Rembrandt, blocks. Yet, in certain sec- neighborhood. Itsatlases adelphia’sown Benjamin Rubens, Jan Brueghel the tions, the enchanting city and mapsfromthe 16th Franklin. The building, in Elder,and El Greco. of times gone by —with a through 20th centuriesil- fact,sits alongStrada Ben- We sat on abench in Ate- lustrate how Romania has jamin Franklin,further tes- neul Park, asmall wooded waxedand wanedasvari- tament to the city’senlight- space sandwiched be- ous kingdoms laid claim to enment. tween the Athenaeum and TO parts of it, influencing its Although tours are avail- RevolutionSquare, and ADVERTISE Inns & CALL: architecture, food, and cul- able, the best way to view soaked up the atmo- Resosorrtsts 215-854-5328 ture. the Athenaeum is during a sphere. It was aperfect FAX: Bucharest’sorchestra concert.Experiencing a spot for an impromptudes- Directory 215-854-5572 hall, the circa-1880s great structure being used sert picnic of asalted cara- French-designedRoma- for its intended purpose mel éclair from the nearby nian Athenaeum, is an out- bringsits history to life. French Revolution bakery. ST. MAARTEN standing example of Neo- Our visit to Bucharest coin- Likethe frescointhe Athe- www.beachsidevillas.com OCEANEDGE, LUXURY classicalarchitecture. Agi- cided with the George Romanian Athenaeum’s auditorium, in Bucharest, whose naeum’srotunda,Buchar- 1,2,3BR A/C Villas. Fully equipped kitchen. BBQ, daily housekeeping. free wi-fi cable TV. Perfect va- ant cherry perchedatop Enescu Festival, abiennial Sistine Chapel-likeinterior is adorned with the “Great esthas come full circle. cation all year! Call Owner Yolanda 313-884-7706 the lacy dome would not classical-music event (in Fresco,”25scenes from Romanian history. LARISSA MILNE “Little Paris,” with afew look out of place on this odd-numbered years) that 21st-century twists, RIVERSIDE TOWER HOTEL -NYC confection of abuilding. is named after Romania’s creasedinternational tour- good chunk of Bucharest awaits. Singles $134; Doubles $139; Suites $149-$169 Lincoln Center area, Hudson River views, 18 flrs, Despite its “romantic”ap- best-loved composer.The ism in the next few years, and building the massive ¢ kitchenette. 5min to midtown. Safe, quiet, luxury pearance, the Athenaeum prestigious festival draws this vibe may disappear. structure gobbled up half The Bucharest-bound area. Riverside Drive &80th St. For more info. call 1-800-724-3136 www.riversidetowerhotel.com is atribute to philosophy musiciansfrom all over But for now,itstill feels of Romania’sgross domes- need to know: and culture. Names of the world. During acham- like Old World Europe. tic product.” yThere are no direct great minds are chiseled ber orchestra concert, we Four decades of commu- Today,Romania’s gov- flights from the U.S. to Bu- were able to appreciate the nist rule left an indelible ernment resides in it, tak- charest. However,there Sistine Chapel-like interior mark on Bucharest, yet ing up less space than orig- are airline-alliance connec- adorned withthe “Great the cityhas assimilated inally intended for Ceaus- tions through many Euro- Fresco,”25scenesfromRo- that part of its past into escu’sauthoritarian re- pean gateway cities. manian historythat ring the capitalist present. It is gime, then the country’s yThe unit of currency is the circular auditorium. impossibletomissthe Par- predominant industry.The the leu (plural lei, pro- Afew blocks awayisBu- liamentBuilding, abrood- building also houses the nounced lay). At publica- charest’sOld Town, ape- ing marble hulk perched Museum of Contemporary tion, the exchange rate destrian-friendly,cobble- imposingly on ahill at the Art and alarge convention was about 4lei to $1. stone warrenfull of bou- western-end tip of Bulevar- center,which hosts inter- yMost Romanians in Bu- tiques, restaurants, and dul Unirii, or “Reunifica- national business expos. charest speak at least bars. Although there are a tion .” Venture two blocks from someEnglish. Romanian few small souvenir kiosks, Ceausescu’smassive the Athenaeum to Revolu- has its roots in Latin;any- the neighborhood has yet monument to the glory of tion Square, formerly Pal- one familiar with French, to be discovered by tourist the party,and himself, was ace Square, and the site of Spanish,orItalian will no- flocks thathave turned unfinished at the time of Ceausescu’sdownfall. Bu- tice similarities. other cities’historic sec- his execution in 1989. With charest’smainmeeting y“Bucharest in Your tions into interchangeable more than one million cu- place for 150 years, it was Pocket”isafree online outposts of faux Irish pubs bic meters of marble, it initially acenter of culture guide that offers up-to- and chain restaurants. claimsthe distinction of due to its proximity to the date touristinformation. The funky Left Bank atmo- being the “world’sheavi- Royal Palace and Athenae- Go to www.inyourpock- sphere attracts primarily est building.” And who are um. In the 20th century,it et.com/bucharest. locals.Unlike in similar we to argue?Agroup was the venue for Commu- yInteresting Times Bu- neighborhoods in Prague called Interesting Times nist Partyrallies by reau is atour company of- or Paris where English Bureau offers unique throngs of cheering “volun- fering uniquewalking and German speakers tours of Bucharest, one of teers.” tours of Bucharest, such dominate, Romanian is whichfocuses on the com- The square is watched as “Communism” and the language most often munist era. Guide Roxana over by the former home “ Art.” Go to www.in- heard. As the city sees in- Bira noted that “razing a of the Central Committee terestingtimes.ro.