The West Highland Way

JUNE 2010

WEST HIGHLAND WAY - JUNE 2010

“ It’s quicker by car” , “And that’s a holiday” , “How many miles, you must be mad”, were typical of the comments made by our work colleagues when telling them of our next distance challenge walk, the West Highland Way from north of Glasgow to Fort William, a total of 95 miles. This is Scotland’s first and still most famous long distance route. Elaine and I completed this over eight days between 04 and 12 June following low fells, the shores of Loch Lomond, through the more rugged Glen Falloch, over the wilderness of Rannoch Moor to Glencoe then up and over the Devils Staircase to Kinlochleven before the grandeur of Ben Nevis and Fort William. He’s our short account.

Travelling by car to Scotland, we felt quietly confident about our energetic task having already completed the Dales Way and Cumbria Way in previous years. After looking at all options, we decided to book this adventure through Ramblers Holidays, so all our accommodation, food, luggage transfer and travel needs between sections were catered for. The planned holiday involved four nights at Gartmore House, south of Aberfoyle in Sterling whilst completing the southern half of the walk then moving to the Ballachulish Hotel on the banks of Loch Leven, south of Fort William for the next four nights whilst completing the northern section. Each day we were transported by mini coach to the start of the days walk, collected at the end for transport back to base before returning to complete the next section.

Gartmore House has a history of its own. Built in 1793 for the Cunningham Graham family who owned large areas of surrounding countryside, it passed to Sir Charles Cayzer in 1900 who made fortune shipping. He employed architect David Barclay who was a pupil of Charles Rennie Mackintosh to add more ‘bling’ by redesigning the west front, adding towers and a better roof aspect. Between 1940 and 1950 the house was an army barracks; in 1953 it became St Ninian’s school run by the De La Salle Brothers, a Roman Catholic religious order. After being empty and dormant for a while, in 2000 a charitable trust was established to run the house as a centre used by numerous groups, including the church, school orchestras, outdoor activity and business groups on a non profit making basis.

At Gartmore we met the remainder of our group, another eleven people who had booked this walk and our leader. Elaine and I were the only married couple of the group who were a great ‘international’ bunch with men and women from Canada, Australia, Scotland, Wales and England who for one reason or another had left their partners at home, some due to injury or illness, and others due to the distance to complete. Our leader was a retired professor of mathematics whose main research interests were in the physical interpretation of exact solutions of Einstein's equations of general relativity, and, in the analysis of solutions of specific physical significance 1 WEST HIGHLAND WAY - JUNE 2010

– you know all that easy stuff we remember well from school! He has written several books and as well as being a ‘boffin’, was a keen ornithologist and munro bagger of which he said many were easier to climb than pronounce. A very fit and interesting character and it goes without saying, his route timings were spot on!

Day One - So, to day one of our walk taking us from Milngavie (said ‘mul guy’) to Drymen (drimm en), a steady 12 miles. In warm sunny weather after customary photos at a large grey granite obelisk marking the start of the walk on the north- western edge of the city of Glasgow, we were quickly walking across heath land, woodland of Mugdock Country Park and pasture with views of Dumgoyne, the western edge of the Campsie Fells. The walking at this stage is relatively easy on tracks, lanes and disused railway lines. We also passed the one and only distillery seen over the entire walk, Glengoyne Distillery with a large sign next to the path proclaiming, “7 miles done, only 88 to go. Stop for a dram to help you on your way”.

Alas we didn’t, instead stopping for our picnic lunch at the Beech Tree Inn, a former railway station further along. The afternoon quickly passed over similar terrain before reaching Drymen and the first celebratory drink as a group in a local pub. Things looked promising.

Day two - took us from Drymen to just north of Balmaha, a distance of 11 miles. The Way took us through Garadhban Forest where there were signs of extensive felling in recent years before crossing rough moorland over the Highland Boundary Fault with our retired Welsh geography teacher telling of the geological significance of this aspect.

As we began our first real climb up the right flank of Conic Hill (1,200 feet) we saw our first views of Loch Lomond, and very impressive too, being Britain’s largest freshwater lake.

Lunch with a view was enjoyed in fine weather before descending steeply down to Balmaha and a welcome pub stop – even

2 WEST HIGHLAND WAY - JUNE 2010 before the end of the walk! After refreshment, we continued at loch side level passed some very nice properties and leisure facilities to a car park were our transport was waiting to take us back to Gartmore.

Day three - another 11 miles was a more rugged, strenuous section. Walking along undulating (like 100 feet above the loch one minute and at shore level the next type of undulating) paths having to avoid slippery tree roots and negotiate some large boulder clambers was the order of the day.

After passing through Rowardennan, part of this route also negotiates through Ben Lomond National Memorial Park dedicated in 1996 to those who gave their lives in the service of their country.

Lunch was right on the loch side sitting on a very large boulder in the sun and exposed to a bit of wind to blow the beasties away – ah yes, those lovely flying insects, the midge. We were lucky not to be troubled too much during the whole of our walk but they were there to annoy you if you gave them a chance, especially in the wooded areas. A bit of spray now and then also helped. More of the same terrain followed in the afternoon through woodland, some parts covered in bluebells that looked spectacular, crossing footbridges over burns before reaching the spectacular Inversnaid Falls signalling our arrival at the end of day three at the Inversnaid Hotel. This area was popular with tourists in the 19th century and has been visited by Wordsworth. Some welcome Scottish refreshment was again taken sat overlooking Loch Lomond on a bright sunny afternoon before the arrival of our trusty bus.

Day four - we started to move towards the heart of the Highlands on with a 13 mile walk to Crainlarich along the northern section of Loch Lomond, past Rob Roys cave were he ‘allegedly’ kept his kidnap victims. Just after here we had our first encounter with the long black haired feral goats with large turned back horns, quite devilish looking.

Not troubled by our presence, they carried on munching the fern allowing plenty of photographs by the group.

With the difficulties of the previous day behind us, we made good progress over grassy open sections to Ardleish at the tip of the Loch. Further north we went passing through Beinglas Farm with its wooden rectangular and triangular tents, we followed and crossed several times the River Falloch, viewed the Falls of Falloch and into Glen Falloch with its magnificent Scots Pines standing there year on year against the elements. Eventually we reached a fingerpost in a forest. Tyndrum, our 3 WEST HIGHLAND WAY - JUNE 2010 required route to the left, Crainlarich was right where our mini bus was, the nearest road. After a mile of fairly steep downhill section through the forest to meet our driver, we knew what was in store for us to retrace our steps to pick up the Way fingerpost for the start of day five.

Day five - another 13 miles took us from Crainlarich to Bridge of Orchy, a famous stone bridge built in about 1750 by William Caulfield an Irishman and deputy to General George Wade, Commander in Chief of the army in Scotland. Much of the Highland Way from this area north to Fort William uses part of the old military road built by Caulfield, the standard width being two yards with drainage ditches on each side. When you see the terrain it is an impressive achievement, but hard on the feet of tender 21st century walkers. Continuing on and quickly passing through the town of Tyndrum, the Highland Way moves north with a long section running parallel to the A82(Trunk) road and the West Highland railway line with all three routes coming together and moving away from each other over the miles.

The scenery to the right is spectacular with the summits of Beinn Odhar, Beinn a’Chaisteil and Beinn Dorain at 2,948ft, 2,897ft and 3,529ft (a munro) respectively. Also spectacular here is a horseshoe shaped viaduct carrying the rail line as it follows the contours around these mountains. We were again lucky with the weather to be able to enjoy this area at its finest. We even had an airshow with an RAF Tornado blasting its way down the valley. This section had the disadvantage of being able to see the Way on the old military road for miles ahead. However, fine sunny weather, good company of the group and the reward of a pint at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel soon got us there.

Day six - was the warmest day of the whole walk with unbroken sunshine all day. Most of this section makes use of an estate track – an old line of communication between Tyndrum and Ballachulish. From the famous Bridge of Orchy the West Highland Way moves north easterly across a low ridge offering fine views of Loch Tulla with its wooded islands before reaching the remote and historic Inveroran Hotel where we stopped for morning coffee

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‘al fresco’. This small eight room hotel began life in 1708 as a thatched roofed drover’s inn.

We continued the track passing a Victorian forest lodge surrounded by huge rhododendron bushes. This was the last building we would see for 9 miles as we crossed Rannock Moor, one of Britain’s last wild places. As the sun shone upon us, it was a deceptively easy walk but whilst looking around at the wilderness of scrub and peat bog stretching for miles, one could see how it could catch out the unwary in foul weather. Stopping for regular intakes of liquid on this sunny day, we felt fortunate to be able to see the highlands, probably at its best. The last three miles of this 12 mile day was a gentle decent to the eastern mouth of Glencoe. What a way to be introduced to Glencoe in such weather being able to see the tops of every mountain around.

An ‘oasis’ of the lone whitewashed Kingshouse Hotel standing back from the busy A82(T) road acted as a beacon for us to aim for, our end of day 6. Whilst we drank our welcome pint at one of Scotland’s’ oldest licensed inns, waiting for our transport, two wild deer wandered into the car park and then round to a stream at the rear of the hotel for a drink. According to staff, they have remained in the area after being fed from hotel scraps during the last harsh winter. Good for tourists too!!

Day seven - what a difference a day makes!, a brief nine miles today, began overcast with light drizzle and a stiff head wind as we headed down Glencoe following the old military road on the lower flanks of Beinn a’ Chrulaiste, parallel and east to the main road until we reached Altnafeadh. With 5 Munro’s to our left and two to our right, the only place was up and our ascent of the ‘Devils Staircase’ en route Kinlochleven. This stretch climbing out of Glencoe was so named by Caulfields soldiers building the road due to the zigzag nature of the section costing huge effort to build in such rugged terrain. After 1,000 feet of climb, we reached the highest point of the Highland Way at 1,800 feet marked by two stone cairns were we stopped for a breather and catch- up. Regrettably, low cloud marred our views but we were still able to enjoy the downward section

5 WEST HIGHLAND WAY - JUNE 2010 over open moor towards Kinlochleven. The final section descends quite steeply in parts alongside 6 very large water pipes used to supply hydro-electric generators at the Alcan Smelting works, closed in 2000 but still supplying electricity.

Day 8 - our final day, just 14 miles from Kinlochleven to Fort William and the end of our Highland Way. The day was to start with a stiff climb through midge infested forest before the old road opened out to upland walking past ruins of desolate abandoned farmsteads and shelters used by crofters families whilst tending their cattle in the summer. The valley here undulates with high mountains to the left and right. Our only obstacle was of the human kind. Hundreds of walkers were taking part in the Caledonian Challenge between 11 and 12 June in teams of four. Covering a distance of 54 miles in 24 hours, starting just north of Fort William and covering the reverse route of the north section of the Highland Way, we had plenty of people to say “hello” to coming from the opposite direction. Some could be seen to be very serious about their attempt, those in army gear especially, some other teams were taking part more for the fun to see how far their enthusiasm would get them before calling it a day. However, all were making lots of money for various charities.

We lost contact with this human spectacle as we passed through Nevis Forest before being able to see the huge mass of Ben Nevis to our right. A view through binoculars allowed us to see the stream of people walking up and down the paths to the left of the mountain. There was still some snow showing in the gullies of its summit. A steep gravely path took us down further into Glen Nevis before the outskirts of Fort William and a short road walk to the end, a small shopping centre on a roundabout near the town centre.

Here our driver was waiting with a bottle of sparkling wine for us. We all toasted our successful achievement – and had the obligatory photo shot.

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Overall - The West Highland Way involves in the region of 16,000 feet of ascent and decent so cannot be classed as an easy walk. Ben Nevis is 4,408 feet so put another way, it’s like going up and down Ben Nevis - TWICE. We have been regular walkers over many years and the two days beside Loch Lomond were quite demanding on the knees with the hard granite cobbles of the old military road on other sections being tough on the feet. Overall, a fantastic walk in optimum conditions. Would we do it again? A big YES.

Chris and Elaine Prince.

June 2010

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