Ethiopia Omo Valley Extension II Birding & Tribal Cultures 30Th October to 6Th November 2017 (8 Days)

Ethiopia Omo Valley Extension II Birding & Tribal Cultures 30th October to 6th November 2017 (8 days)

Mursi tribeswomen by Adam Riley

This exciting extension will take us to one of the wildest and most ethnically diverse places on Earth – the South Omo Valley. Combining a wonderful mix of culture and birding, we will have the rare opportunity to interact with several tribal communities who still live almost exactly as they did hundreds of years ago. This harsh and inhospitable part of south-western Ethiopia harbors over a dozen distinctly different tribes, each with its own unique language, clothing, hairstyles and bodily ornamentation. Our tour will take us through the very heart of this vast and varied cultural melting pot, and promises to make an exciting and memorable end to our Ethiopia birding experience!

THE TOUR AT A GLANCE…

THE ITINERARY Day 1 Addis Ababa Day 2 Addis Ababa, flight to Arba Minch Day 3 Arba Minch, drive to Turmi Day 4 Turmi area Day 5 Turmi, drive to Jinka via Dimeka Market RBT Ethiopia Endemics & Lalibela & Omo Extension Itinerary 2

Day 6 Jinka area Day 7 Jinka, drive to Arba Minch Day 8 Arba Minch, drive to Addis Ababa and depart

TOUR ROUTE MAP…

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THE TOUR IN DETAIL…

Day 1: Addis Ababa. Today is essentially a travel/arrival day. For those doing the main Ethiopia tour, we will be arriving in Addis Ababa from Debre Berhan, while those only participating in this Omo Valley Extension will arrive at Addis Ababa’s Bole International Airport. Founded in 1886 by Emperor Menelik II, Addis Ababa is Ethiopia’s capital and is one of the largest cities in Africa, with a population well over 5 million. It is located at 2,500m (8,300ft) above sea level at the foot of the highest peak of the Entoto Mountain chain, and enjoys an excellent year-round climate. Addis Ababa is a pleasant city with wide avenues of Jacarandas, interesting museums and one of the largest open-air markets in Africa, known as the Merkato. The extensive gardens around our hotel are worth exploring for some interesting species that include Wattled Ibis, Tacazze Sunbird, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher and even the difficult Abyssinian Woodpecker.

Day 2: Fly to Arba Minch and visit Dorze tribe. Depending upon domestic flight schedules, our plan this morning will be to visit Ethiopia’s Ethnological Museum Dorze hut by Adam Riley situated on the main campus of the Addis Ababa University. This museum was founded by the Institute of Ethiopian Studies with the aim of preserve the country’s historical and cultural heritage. It has complete collections that describe almost all the tribal groups in Ethiopia, and here we will enjoy an overview of the history, culture and traditions of Ethiopia’s people. Our first-hand exploration of the tribal cultures of the Omo Valley also starts today. The destination of our flight is the southern city of Arba Minch, meaning “Forty Springs”, which takes its name from the numerous gurgling springs that rise in the nearby Nechisar National Park. This is the largest town in the region with a population of around 80,000 people, and is situated 500 kilometres south of Addis Ababa on the edge of the Omo Valley. In the afternoon we will head towards Chencha, a “city” lying atop the eastern wall of the Great Rift Valley and inhabited by the Dorze tribe. The Dorze are famed weavers who live in tall huts that resemble a giant elephant head. All around the city are smaller Dorze villages, which were grouped around Chencha when it was the regional capital. These people have a staple diet of a type of bread made from the fermented false-banana tree. Men are occupied in the day by many tasks including the weaving of their brightly coloured cloths. They are also a farming people who terrace the hills around their villages for crop growing. Women look after the children, spin cotton, collect firewood and prepare food for the family. The traditional clothing of the Dorze consists of D’Arnaud’s Barbet by Adam Riley

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cloths called “shammas”, which have gained popularity throughout Ethiopia. Their uniquely shaped and impossibly tall grass huts last for many years. We will have the opportunity to enter these huts and visit with traditional and friendly Dorze people as they go about their daily chores, as well as taste their traditional food and fiery brews! This area is also rich in birds, especially since the habitat changes dramatically as we wind up the Great Rift Valley, from low lying Arba Minch to the Dorze villages at the top. Species that have been seen on previous excursions include Augur Buzzard, African Harrier-Hawk, Eurasian Wryneck, Blue-breasted Bee-eater and White-rumped Babbler. We will overnight at a comfortable lodge overlooking Lake Abaya and sections of Nechisar National Park. We will look out for Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle, Abdim’s and Black Storks and Thick-billed Raven gliding past. Difficult to miss are the Fan-tailed Ravens that scavenge food off the breakfast tables! Numerous species of weavers, seed-eaters and sunbirds are common in the garden.

Day 3: Arba Minch to Turmi via Lake Chamo (boat ride) and Konso. This morning we will begin our journey into the Omo Valley to the little village of Turmi. The Lower Omo Lake Chamo fisherman Valley is situated within Africa’s famous and, geologically- by Adam Riley speaking, rapidly expanding Great Rift Valley (which will eventually split the continent into two landmasses). Here, in south-west Ethiopia’s awkwardly named “Southern Nations, Nationalities, and People’s Region”, bordering Kenya and Sudan, the great Omo River dominates this dry savanna valley, resulting in some of Africa’s most well developed and best preserved arid-zone riverine forests. The Omo River rises from the Shewan highlands to the north (much of Ethiopia consists of high-lying mountains and fertile plateaus, despite the impression created by some international media bodies that Ethiopia is predominately desert!). It flows 470 miles (750km), mostly southwards, before entering Lake Turkana (previously Lake Rudolf) near the Kenyan border. Lake Turkana, the world’s largest permanent desert lake and also the planet’s largest alkaline lake, has no water outflow, so in effect it’s a dead- end for the Omo River. The importance of the Lower Omo Valley has been recognized by UNESCO, which has declared it a cultural World Heritage site. It also contains two massive national parks and several Important Bird Areas. This vast, scenic valley is now most famous, however, for its staggering cultural diversity. Over a dozen distinctive ethnic groups exist here, many of whom live lives little Typical Omo Valley market scene by Jonathan Rossouw touched by the modern world. This is

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largely due to the remoteness and prior near-inaccessibility of the area, forming a natural barrier to modernization and the detribalization of the Omo Valley. Recent publicity about these remarkable tribes has resulted in tourists wanting to experience this wild land and its attractions for themselves. Several lodges have subsequently opened and a surfaced road is being built to allow easier access. The Lower Omo Valley is also famous for its significant anthropological discoveries, including hominid remains of several distinctive species, going back as far as four million years, as well as the earliest known skeletons of our own species (nearly 200,000 years old). The Omo Valley has clearly been a cultural crossroads of great significance for White-throated Bee-eater by David Hoddinott eons, and continues to be so. During our drive today we pass through various areas that the Gamo, Derashe and Konso people call their home. We will cross the Weto River and pass through a variety of habitats as well as an area with many hundreds of impressive termite mounds, some of them up to 8 meters high – an amazing sight to behold! Just outside the town of Arba Minch and within Nechisar National Park lies the vast Lake Chamo. Here we will take a thoroughly enjoyable boat ride on the lake, whose shores teem with birds, including such typical African species as African Fish Eagle, Goliath Heron (the world’s largest heron), Yellow-billed Stork and the incomparable Hamerkop, a species in its own family. We will visit what is known as the “crocodile market” to view a haul-out of dozens of Nile Crocodiles, including some of the largest specimens on the continent. Pods of Hippopotamus will snort at us and we will no doubt enjoy the highly localized Northern Masked Weaver and other beautiful birds. We may also encounter local fisherman here who fearlessly paddle these crocodile-infested waters on tiny rafts whilst fishing for Nile Perch and other freshwater fish! Several hours drive southward will take us to Konso, a small town famed for its amazing terraces and agriculture, and recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage Site (declared in 2011). The Konso tribe migrated into this area thousands of years ago, and from these stone-age beginnings their remarkable culture developed in virtual isolation. They have led a largely independent existence, rarely involving themselves in trade with other communities, and have defended their lands fiercely. Their fortifications will be evident when we visit one of their walled villages. Here we will be guided through this experience by a community guide who Omo Valley tribesman by Markus Lilje will explain and demonstrate the fascinating lifestyle, beliefs and traditions of these industrious people. Communal living and co-

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operation, with the retention of traditional values, has afforded the Konso people a relatively prosperous existence in an otherwise arid and inhospitable landscape. Our final destination will be our lodge for the next two nights near the market town of Turmi, deep in the Lower Omo Valley and in the land of the Hamar tribe (also known as Hammer or Hamer). The Hamars, numbering nearly 50,000, are one of the largest ethnic groups living in the Lower Omo Valley (with an approximate population of 200,000 tribal people). Along the way we will stop at any active market villages, which provide neighbouring tribes the opportunity to trade and barter. Usually three or four different tribes gather at these busy events and we will have the opportunity to stroll through these markets, admiring the stunning traditional dresses, adornments, hairstyles and scarification of these proud peoples, as well as the traditional wares that are being hawked. The Hamer are a highly “superstitious” people, and to this day they consider twins to be babies born outside of wedlock, and children whose upper milk teeth develop before their lower teeth to be “evil” or “unclean”. For this reason, Hamer woman showing whipping such children are often discarded in the bush and simply left scars by Jonathan Rossouw to die, as they would rather lose a single child than inflict any calamity upon their community. We may also stop at a village of the Erbore people, a nomadic tribe who are known for their intricate jewellery. Some of the noteworthy birds we may encounter on this leg of our journey include Yellow throated and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, White-cheeked Turaco, White- throated Bee-eater, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill and Abyssinian Scimitarbill.

Day 4: Turmi area, visits to Murulle and the Turmi Market. This morning we will depart very early for a long drive through wild country to visit the Karo (or Kara) people. The drive takes us through vast areas of savanna where we may see wildlife including the endearing Guenther’s Dik-dik, long-necked Gerenuk (a rather bizarre antelope) and fluffy Guereza Colobus monkeys. Finally we will reach a high bend on the Omo River where a Murulle village is perched. These people exist on what is known as “flood retreat Hamer Bull Jumping Ceremony by Markus Lilje cultivation”, tilling the fertile soils deposited by the annual flooding of the Omo River The Karo are a warrior nation, but are also one of the numerically smallest tribes in the Omo region. With the constant threat of attack from their neighbours, this group of people is under great pressure to merely survive. They are well known for their body painting, which is often done in white,

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yellow, black or red using various clay and stone types found in the area. Women scarify themselves to enhance their beauty by cutting into the skin of their stomach or breasts with a knife or blade, and rubbing in ash to cause raised scars. These seemingly bizarre traditions date back millennia, and are a part of life here. Hair is adorned in both men and women, with butter and clay applied to the woman’s hair, and finely molded clay headdresses for the men. The clay headdress of a man may indicate that he has killed an enemy warrior, while scars on a man’s chest may mean the same! During the heat of the day we will drive back to our lodge and have a rest after our early start. Thereafter we might attend a cultural market of the Hamer, Karo and Dassanech tribes (if it coincides with our visit in this area!) Here we can see first-hand the elementary items upon which their cultures are so utterly dependent. These include beads, cowries and the various soils that they use for colouring their bodies. As with all of the Omo tribes, the Hamar have a rich tradition of dress and culture. These people are a tribe of nomadic pastoralists who are famous for many of their customs. One of these is the “Jumping of the Bulls”, which we hope to experience (this ceremony is not artificially performed for Black-headed Lapwing by Markus Lilje tourists so we cannot guarantee this experience, but if one is taking place within the region during our visit, we will make every effort to attend.) This amazing spectacle involves young men, who, when coming of age, must perform huge leaps and sprints across a row of bulls (typically between 10 and 30 animals) without losing their footing! During the build-up to the main events, women (usually relatives of the young man performing this rite of passage) offer themselves for whipping, a much respected act within the Hamar community. Terrible scars that result from this whipping are seen as a sign of elevated status within the Hamar culture, and will benefit the women in terms of her standing within the tribe, as well as forming a bond of allegiance between these women and the young man, who will soon leave his family and find himself a wife. Successful men will join the ranks of Maza, the men who have been successful in the Bull Jumping ceremony and are fully-fledged members of the Hamar tribe. Men wear ornaments in their hair, which may indicate the killing of an enemy from a different tribe or a dangerous animal. The killing of someone from a different tribe is greatly respected within this culture, and not seen in the negative light with which we view such actions. The Hamar women are immediately identifiable by their brick red hair braids which hang down in a heavy fringe, beautiful beaded jewellery, copper bracelets tightly fixed around their arms and animal skin skirts designed to imitate gazelles and decorated with cowries. There are many other items of dress within the culture that have important meanings, such as neck wedges worn by women indicating marriage or white chalk body- paint worn by men in preparation for a ceremony. Cutting of Abyssinian Roller by Markus Lilje the body and the application of ash to cause ornamental

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scarification is commonly performed by the Omo tribes, and the Hamar are no exception. We will spend time visiting various Hamar homesteads where we will have the opportunity to learn about these proud people and observe their fascinating way of life. During our explorations of the Turmi area we may find an array of wonderful birds including possibilities for Blue-naped Mousebird, Abyssinian Roller, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Taita Fiscal, Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit, Singing Bush Lark, clockwork-like D’Arnaud’s Barbet performing their comical tail-wagging display, uncommon Magpie and Shelley’s Starlings, Eastern Plantain-eater, White-throated Bee-eater, Black-throated Barbet, Yellow- necked Spurfowl, Bateleur, Purple (Rufous-crowned) Roller, Von Der Decken’s Hornbill and even Black-headed Lapwing, among many others.

Day 5: Turmi, drive to Jinka via Dimeka Market. The savanna and dry Keske riverbed immediately around our lodge offers excellent birding, and an optional pre-breakfast stroll in the vicinity may produce sightings of the lovely Orange-bellied Parrot, cryptic Bruce’s Green Pigeons and raucous Abyssinian and Lilac-breasted Rollers. Starlings abound in number, sound and variety; with shimmering Mursi Woman by Adam Riley Greater and Lesser Blue-eared, Superb, Rüppell’s and less commonly encountered Magpie and Shelley’s, as well as their close relatives, Red-billed Oxpeckers, which enjoy rides on the Hamar’s donkeys! Small seedeaters add to these typical African birds; brilliant Purple Grenadiers, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus and Green-winged Pytilias mix with firefinches and waxbills to form flocks of colourful confusion! We will do a little more sightseeing around the Turmi area before we depart the land of the Hamar, making our way to the village of Jinka. En route to Jinka we will pass through the Dimeka village, which lies a mere 20km north of Turmi. Here we will visit the Dimeka Market where hordes of Hamer and Bena villagers congregate from miles around to sell their various goods and produce. These two tribes are both agriculturalists and are very similar in appearance with strong cultural affinities. Before we reach Jinka, we will stop at an Ari village, where we can watch how Injera, the staple dish of most Ethiopians, gets made; also in this area will have the opportunity to watch the making of clay injera plates, the local alcoholic brew, as well the local blacksmith at work. We can expect to arrive in the village of Jinka, a scenically perched town on an escarpment overlooking the vastness of Mago National Park, in the mid to late afternoon.

Day 6: Mago National Park and the Mursi tribe. We will depart our lodge before dawn and drive through Mago National Park. This park preserves 2,162 sq. km (835 sq. mi) of savanna and riverine forest on the west bank of the Mago River and adjoins Omo National Park on the east bank of the same river. This park used to teem with game; however, due to relentless poaching, game numbers have Mursi Woman by Markus Lilje

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now greatly decreased. Nonetheless African Elephant, African Buffalo, Lion, African Wild Dog, Cheetah, Leopard (adult and cub seen on our Jan 2012 tour) and many species of antelope and other wildlife still exists. This park is also home to several primates including Olive Baboon and the rare and localized long bearded Da Brazza’s Monkey. Birds too are prolific and we hope to find riverine woodland, rocky slope and open woodland specialities including the very tricky Dusky Babbler, as well as White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Eastern Plantain-eater, White-crested Helmetshrike, Black- headed Gonolek, Black-bellied Bustard, Tambourine Dove, Double-toothed Barbet, Greater Honeyguide, Nubian Woodpecker, Grey-headed and Orange-breasted Bushshrikes, Flappet Lark, Northern Brownbul, Grey-rumped and Mosque Swallows, Boran and Croaking Cisticolas, Whinchat, Beautiful Sunbird, Abyssinian and Crimson-rumped Waxbills, and Brown Babbler. However, the main reason for venturing to this remote region is to visit the celebrated Mursi people, a tribe that is famed for the incredible lip plates that the women wear. At around the age of 15, girls have the choice of undergoing the extremely painful process of having their lower lip sliced and a small clay or wooden lip plate inserted. As the wound heals, this is replaced with larger and larger lip plates until they are able to stretch their lower lip over the back of their head and can wear lip plates of 5-inches or more in diameter! Several theories circulate as to the reason behind this bizarre practice, including that it Traditional dancing ceremony by Markus Lilje was started to make the women less attractive to slave raiders or that it increases the bride-price, yet the actual reason now seems to be lost in the mists of time and this practice is perpetuated quite simply because it is their custom. The Mursi migrate seasonally for the purpose of growing crops and herding cattle. We will spend time visiting a Mursi village, before returning to our comfortable base in Jinka. In the late afternoon we can visit the Cultural Museum of the Omo valley tribes which is situated in Jinka town, if time permits.

Day 7: Jinka, drive to Arba Minch. After some final morning birding, we will depart Jinka and make the long drive back to Arba Minch. Interesting birds that we may encounter along the way include Greater Kestrel, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Little Bee-eater, Boran, Singing and Tiny Cisticolas, Chestnut Weaver, Cut-throat and African Firefinch, among many others, before arriving at our accommodation in Arba Minch. If we did not have time to visit the Dorze on the first day in the area, we will visit them today.

Day 8: Arba Minch to Addis Ababa and depart. After breakfast this morning, we will commence another long yet scenic drive to Addis Ababa via Hossana, potentially visiting the interesting Alaba and Wolaita villages en Dusky Babbler by Adam Riley

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route. We also visit the Melka Kunture Archaeological site and Tiya Stellae, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here over 30 carved Stellae are a reminder of an ancient Ethiopian culture – precise dates are yet to be agreed upon. From here we then drive to the capital’s airport, from where we will depart from Ethiopia with some amazing and unusual memories from this unique and very special part of the world.

FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: Tour dates, prices, single supplement rates, approximate flight costs and spaces available for this tour are displayed on our website. Please see under IMPORTANT NOTES below.

This includes:  On selected tours we are able to arrange free transfers to our specified hotel or airport, within 3 days of the beginning or end of the main tour. However, since our capacity to offer this service can vary from tour to tour, details of this option will be sent to you upon confirmation of this tour;  All meals from lunch on day 1 to breakfast on day 8;  Bottled mineral water each day;  All lodgings during the tour;  Fees for village and site visits;  All ground transportation and;  All guiding services (including tips for local guides and services).

This excludes:  ANY flights (see above);  Any drinks other than bottled drinking water;  Visa fees;  Special gratuities including tips/payment that is expected to photograph tribespeople; and  Telephone calls, laundry and other items of a personal nature.

Single Supplement: The single supplement cost for this tour will be charged if you wish to have single accommodation. If RBT cannot provide you with a rooming partner for these nights although you choose to share, the single supplement will become applicable. We will make all reasonable efforts to ensure that a rooming partner is found if you do wish to share.

IMPORTANT NOTES: a) Due to constantly fluctuating exchange rates, we quote our tours in 4 currencies. The tour price is however fixed only in the currency printed in bold (US$), and the actual cost in the other currencies listed will be adjusted according to prevailing exchange rates at the time of final invoicing (usually 4 months before the tour.) The same applies to approximate flight and single supplement rates, which are also quoted in the respective fixed currency. b) Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration a small party supplement will have to be charged. c) Furthermore, these costs are subject to unforeseen increases in tour related costs and may have to be adjusted as a result. d) Lastly, we may be forced to change or alter the itinerary and / or the designated Rockjumper leader/s at short or no notice due to unforeseen circumstances; please be aware that we will attempt to adhere as close to the original program as possible.

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Tipping: As noted above, gratuities (drivers, hotel staff, etc.) are included on this tour. However, this does NOT include your Rockjumper leader/s. Therefore, if you feel that he/they have given you excellent service, it is entirely appropriate to tip them.

Please note:  If you wish to photograph people, bear in mind that they expect payment for their photographs to be taken. A general rule of thumb is 1 Birr per child, and 2 Birr per teenager or adult. It is therefore advisable to carry some small (and new!) banknotes, though fruit is also acceptable for children.

ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE DETAILS: You may arrive in Addis Ababa at any time on day 1 as this is an arrival day. The tour will conclude at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport around midday on day 8. The above information in respect of arrivals and departures is a guide only. Precise arrival and departure information will be sent to you in your Tour Confirmation package once the tour has been officially confirmed. If you wish to arrive early and/or depart late and would like assistance in this regard, kindly contact the Rockjumper office.

FLIGHTS Addis Ababa Bole International Airport, Addis Ababa (IATA: ADD) is the main port of entry for international flights for this tour and is well serviced by most of the world’s major airlines. We have the capacity to advise you on the best route according to your preferences, but your local travel agent will best be able to book these flights for you. However, please DO NOT book your international flights until you have consulted the Rockjumper office for confirmation on the status of the tour.

Rockjumper Birding Ltd c/o Summit Trust Mauritius Limited Labourdonnais Village Mapou Mauritius Tel (USA & Canada) toll free: 1-888-990-5552 Email: [email protected] Alternative email: [email protected] Website: www.rockjumperbirding.com

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Ethiopian Endemics III 6th to 24th November 2017 (19 days) Lalibela Historical Extension II 24th to 27th November 2017 (4 days)

Ruspoli's Turaco by David Hoddinott

Simply put, Ethiopia is hands-down one of Africa’s most productive and rewarding birding destinations! The plethora of endemic birds to be found here, many of which are very tame and confiding, is further complimented by a rich assemblage of forest and savanna species, while the influx of Palaearctic migrants at the time of this tour all combine to make for a truly bird-filled adventure! To boot, you’ll be exposed to the kaleidoscope of cultures that grace this ancient land, and all of these factors combine to ensure a fascinating experience of not just the country’s birds, but also its amazing mammals – including Ethiopian Wolf and troops of the incredible Gelada. The spectacular landscapes and scenery, fascinating history, good road infrastructure, diverse cultures

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and astonishing wildlife make Ethiopia an essential expedition for both hard-core and casual birders alike, and for many of our guides this remains one of their top destinations on the African continent! THE TOUR AT A GLANCE…

THE ETHIOPIA ENDEMICS ITINERARY Day 1 Arrival in Addis Ababa Day 2 Addis Ababa to Lake Awassa Day 3 Lake Awassa to Goba Day 4 Goba and excursion to Sof Omar Day 5 Goba to Harenna Forest via the Bale Mountain National Park Day 6 Harenna Forest to Negele Day 7 Negele and the road to Bogol Manyo Day 8 Negele to Yabello Day 9 Yabello area Day 10 Yabello to Shashemene Day 11 Shashemene to Lake Langano via Lakes Abijatta and Shalla Day 12 Bishangari to Nazreth Day 13 Nazreth to Bilen Day 14 Bilen to Awash National Park Day 15 Awash National Park Day 16 Awash National Park to Weliso Day 17 Weliso to Debre Birhan via Ghibe Gorge Day 18 Debre Birhan and excursion to Gemasa Geden and Melka Gebdu Track Debre Birhan to Addis Ababa via Gemasa Geden, Melka Gebdu Track and Day 19 depart (or overnight in Addis Ababa for those doing the Lalibela Extension)

LALIBELA HISTORICAL EXTENSION Day 1 Arrival in Addis Ababa Day 2 Addis Ababa to Lalibela Day 3 Excursion to Asheton Mariam Day 4 Lalibela to Addis Ababa

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TOUR ROUTE MAP…

THE TOUR IN DETAIL…

Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa. Today is essentially an arrival day. For those who arrive during the day, it is possible to enjoy some very rewarding birding around the grounds of the hotel where we will be staying tonight. Noteworthy species that may be seen this afternoon include White-backed Black Tit, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Brown-rumped Seedeater, Tacazze Sunbird, White-collared Pigeon and a host of raptors overhead, including perhaps Egyptian and Hooded Vultures.

Day 2: Addis Ababa to Lake Awassa. Our Ethiopian adventure commences with an early departure from Addis Ababa this morning as we head into the Great Rift Valley. Our first birding stop is at Lake Chelekcheka, an excellent site for migrant ducks and waders. Regular species encountered here include Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Garganey, Eurasian Teal, Tufted Duck, Black-tailed Godwit and Temminck’s Stint.

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Sorting through the rafts of ducks and other migrants can be very challenging due to the distraction caused by the sheer number of species moving through the scrubby vegetation near the lake edge! Common Crane often roost in staggering numbers on the far side of the water, and we may see them flying off to forage in huge, noisy flocks. The well- wooded rim of the deep Lake Hora will be our second stop. The woodlands around the lake also teem with birds and again it may prove difficult to keep up with the seemingly endless flow of lifers! Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Black- billed Barbet, Common Redstart, Eurasian Black-winged Lovebird by Adam Riley Blackcap, Red-throated Wryneck, Dark- capped Yellow Warbler, Rüppell’s Robin- Chat, Western Black-headed Batis, Beautiful Sunbird, Rüppell’s Weaver and a diverse variety of waterbirds, especially deep water diving ducks, can be seen here. Thereafter, the steep sided Lake Bishoftu offers superb birding. Maccoa and Ferruginous Ducks, Southern Pochard, Singing Cisticola, gorgeous Tacazze Sunbird, Mocking Cliff Chat, Abyssinian Wheatear, Little Rock Thrush and flocks of Black-winged Lovebird are just some of our targets here! En route to Awassa we will also visit Koka Dam and Lake Ziway, all classified as Important Bird Areas, supporting vast numbers of both resident and migrant waterbirds. Species we will search for include the spectacular Black Crowned Crane, Pink-backed Pelican, African Darter, Intermediate Egret, Goliath Heron, Hamerkop, Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed Storks, Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese, Knob-billed Duck, the elegant African Pygmy Goose, African Fish Eagle, Western Marsh Harrier, African and Lesser Jacanas, Common Snipe, Senegal Thick-knee, Sedge Warbler, Spur- winged Lapwing, Gull-billed Tern, and Pied and Malachite Kingfishers. Strolling along the lakeshore at Lake Ziway will allow us excellent views of confiding Great White Pelican and the huge Marabou Stork, while dazzling Northern Carmine Bee-eater, migratory White and Western Yellow Wagtails (including some of the striking feldeggi race) and the less colourful Ethiopian Cisticola can be seen around the lake edge. This promises to be an action-packed day, after which we will check into our hotel on the shores of Lake Awassa in the late afternoon.

Day 3: Lake Awassa to Goba. Our pre- breakfast birding stroll should yield some special birds around our well-wooded hotel grounds. Some of our targets we hope to see are African Spotted Creeper, Little Weaver, Black- billed Wood Hoopoe, Double-toothed Barbet, Woodland Kingfisher, huge Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, the attractive Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Eastern Grey Woodpecker, Western Black-headed Batis, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Mourning Collared Dove, Grey- backed Fiscal, Northern Puffback and Bronze Mannikin. Reedbeds in the vicinity support Greater Painted-snipe, Black Crake, African Swamphen, Blue-headed Coucal, Red-faced Blue-breasted Bee-eater by Markus Lilje

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Cisticola, Lesser Swamp Warbler and Common Waxbill. The hotel grounds also support families of Grivet Monkey, though it is the regal Guereza Colobus that will certainly steal our attention as they leap through the trees, their shaggy pelts and long tails trailing behind. After breakfast we may then visit the remarkable Lake Awassa fish market. This large lake is particularly rich in fish and the fishermen gut their catch and discard the waste around the market. This in turn attracts large numbers of grotesque Marabou Stork and other birds – photographic opportunities are unrivalled! We should also see Great White Pelican, White-breasted and Reed Cormorants, Hamerkop, African Sacred Ibis, Black-headed, Grey-hooded and Lesser Black- backed Gulls, and sometimes the massively-equipped Thick- billed Raven squabbling over the fish remains. Leaving Awassa, we wind our way upwards towards the world famous Bale Mountains National Park. Rugged hillsides en route may hold a few surprises for us, and some dedicated searching could produce the mackinderi race of Cape Eagle-Owl, while wetter areas hold Rouget’s Rail, Groundscraper Thrush (of the distinctive, endemic race simensis), Blue-winged Goose and smart Spot-breasted Abyssinian Owl Lapwing. At the park headquarters in Dinsho we will search by Matthew Matthiessen the trails for the colourful Chestnut-naped Francolin, secretive Abyssinian Ground Thrush, vocal Abyssinian Catbird and striking White-backed Black Tit. With a healthy dose of luck, we may find roosting African Wood Owl and even Abyssinian Owl in the dark recesses of a Juniper thicket. We also hope to see a variety of mammals, including Mountain Nyala (now entirely restricted to the Bale Mountain massif), Menelik’s Bushbuck, Grey Duiker, Bohor Reedbuck and Warthog, unusual at this high altitude.

Day 4: Goba and excursion to Sof Omar. Today’s activities require a descent of 1,600m (5,280ft) in altitude to enjoy some dry warmth in the Sof Omar region. The habitat here consists of broad-leaved and Acacia woodlands, home for many species that will be new for us. Our main target bird is the extremely range-restricted Salvadori’s Seedeater, the most attractive of Ethiopia’s endemic canaries. Some of our other targets include D’Arnaud’s Barbet, which we hope to watch engaged in their clock-work, tail-wagging display, Somali Crow, Northern Brownbul, Acacia Tit, the localised Brown-tailed Rock Chat, Yellow-breasted Apalis (this form may possibly be split as Brown-tailed Apalis), Rosy-patched Bushshrike and the impressive Bristle-crowned Starling. Other likely species are Crested Francolin, Ring-necked and Namaqua Doves, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Red- bellied Parrot, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Speckled Mousebird, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe, Von der Rouget’s Rail Decken’s, Hemprich’s and Northern Red-billed Hornbills, by Matthew Matthiessen Black-throated Barbet, Cardinal and Nubian Woodpeckers, Grey Wren-Warbler, Northern Crombec, Rufous Chatterer, Grey-headed Batis, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Brubru, White-crested Helmetshrike, Superb

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Starling, White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Speke’s Weaver, the distinctive local subspecies of Red- headed Weaver, Village Indigobird, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, gorgeous Purple Grenadier and Cut- throat Finch. Sof Omar boasts Ethiopia’s longest cave system with over 15km (almost 10 miles!) of passages, and we will take time out from our busy birding schedule to wander through some of these impressive tunnels, with underground waterways and roosting Horseshoe Bats.

Day 5: Goba to Harenna Forest via the Bale Mountain National Park. This will be a day of great contrasts and amazing scenery and birding. We will depart early and ascend the Bale Mountain massif onto the Sanetti Plateau, which lies between 3,800m and 4,377m (12,540 and 14,444ft) above sea level. As we ascend we enter a Tid, or Juniper forest zone, and here we will search for African Goshawk, Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, White-cheeked Turaco, the localized Abyssinian Woodpecker, Cinnamon Bracken and Brown Woodland Warblers, African Hill Babbler, Montane White-eye and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. Sof Omar Caves by Markus Lilje Upon reaching this unique plateau we will be driving on Africa’s highest road, passing close to the summit of Ethiopia’s second highest mountain. This habitat is termed “Afro-alpine moorland” and is characterised by Jibrra, or Giant Lobelias, which tower like monolithic giants over the rich tussock grasslands and extensive cushions of yellow Everlasting flowers. This site is an Important Bird Area of immense significance, supporting seven globally threatened species and nearly all of Ethiopia’s Highland biome species. The plateau holds the only Afrotropical breeding populations of Ruddy Shelduck, Golden Eagle and Red-billed Chough. We will also search for Black Stork, Wattled Ibis, Chestnut- naped and Moorland Francolins, Rouget’s Rail (particularly common and confiding here), endemic Blue-winged Goose, Spot-breasted Lapwing, Wattled Crane, Thekla Lark, migratory flocks of Red- throated Pipit, Abyssinian Longclaw, Red-breasted Wheatear, dumpy Moorland Chat and vast flocks of endemic Ethiopian Siskins.

These grasslands are estimated to support an incredible biomass of 4,000kg (8,800lb) of rodents per hectare. This obviously attracts an array of raptors and we should see Steppe and Golden Eagles, Augur Buzzard and elegant Pallid Harrier courting over this green sea. They share this abundant food source with the plateau’s most celebrated resident, the Ethiopian or Simien Wolf, crowned with the unenviable title of “the world’s rarest canid”. Watching these vibrantly coloured animals, most closely related to the European Timber Wolf, exhibiting their hunting prowess whilst pouncing on Giant Mole-rats (another endemic to the Sanetti Plateau) is surely among Africa’s greatest wildlife experiences. We should enjoy excellent photographic opportunities in this unique montane habitat. Lunch in the Bale Mountains by Markus Lilje

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Finally, we will reach the escarpment of this elevated plateau and stare down through the clouds at the vast Harenna Forest below. This remarkable forest is the largest intact forest block in Ethiopia and the largest protected Afro-alpine forest on the continent. It still supports populations of Lion and the only surviving forest-dwelling African Wild Dogs. Although unlikely that we will see either of these species, the descent through this breathtakingly beautiful, moss-draped forest is inspirational. Here we will search for the uncommon Mountain Buzzard, African Olive Pigeon, Lemon and Tambourine Doves, Ethiopian Wolf hunting mole-rats by Markus Lilje African Emerald Cuckoo, Abyssinian Woodpecker, Narina Trogon, Ethiopian Oriole, Brown Parisoma (represented by a subspecies endemic to this National Park), Slender-billed Starling, Abyssinian Crimsonwing, African Citril and Yellow-crowned Canary. In the afternoon we will check into our luxurious lodge nestled in the forest.

Day 6: Harenna Forest to Negele. After a final morning’s birding around the lodge we will head south towards Negele. As we lose altitude we will exit the forest zone and enter progressively drier thorn savanna in this remote, southern section of Ethiopia. Finally we reach a dry wadi on the Genale River, home to Ethiopia’s most sought-after endemic, Ruspoli’s Turaco. The bird is named after an Italian Prince, its hapless discoverer, who was killed by an elephant soon after collecting the type specimen in the 1890s. It took another 50 years before explorers saw the Turaco again, and only in the 1970s was anything revealed about this bird. We will search fruiting fig trees along the wadi and, with the help of local farmers, we should enjoy excellent views of this very unusual and beautiful turaco. We will arrive in Negele in the early evening and check into our hotel.

Day 7: Negele and the road to Bogol Manyo. This morning we will drive east to bird the increasingly dry woodland and thorn savanna towards the Somali border. This area supports a number of scarce species that include the likes of Red-naped Bushshrike, Pringle’s Puffback, Scaly Chatterer, Three- streaked Tchagra, Gillet’s Lark, Somali Crombec, Taita Fiscal and very occasionally Golden Pipit. New species will certainly abound today and others that we are likely see include Red-fronted Barbet, Pygmy Batis, Red-fronted Warbler, garish Golden-breasted Starling, attractive flocks of Shelley’s and White-crowned Starlings, Somali Crow, African Silverbill, Somali Bunting and Northern Grosbeak- Canary. Large troops of Olive Baboon may also be encountered here and we should see Guenther’s Dik-dik and possibly Gerenuk. East of Negele lies a unique open grassland, the Liben Plains, to which the little known Archer’s (Sidamo) Lark is restricted. This species belongs to the unusual genus Abyssinian Woodpecker Heteromirafra, which also includes the South African Rudd’s by Markus Lilje

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Lark, and is considered one of the most endangered birds on Earth. We will walk through these plains in search of this special bird, which we hope to watch performing its parachute display flight. We should also find small parties of hovering Lesser Kestrel, the giant Kori Bustard (the world’s heaviest flying bird), Black-winged Lapwing, the range restricted Somali Short-toed Lark, Plain-backed Pipit

and Pectoral-patch Cisticola. If we are very fortunate, we may see a covey of Coqui Francolin.

Day 8: Negele to Yabello. Today’s drive along another long and seldom-travelled road takes us near to the Kenya border and finally to the Yabello region, home to two of Ethiopia’s most sought-after endemic birds, both listed as globally threatened: the enigmatic Stresemann’s Bushcrow and glistening White-tailed Swallow. This area of Acacia savanna is characterised by giant red termite mounds (some towering 5m above the plains!) and both these birds seem to be associated in some way with these marvels of natural architecture. The social Bushcrow (or Zavattariornis) was only discovered in 1938 and its affinities have yet to be established. Although it appears starling-like, it is presumed to be most closely related to choughs. Several birding stops will break the journey, the most notable being a stop at the Dawa River in search of Juba Weaver, White-winged Collared Dove and Black-bellied Sunbird. Other noteworthy birds we may encounter en route to Yabello include the scarce Somali Courser, glamorous flocks Golden-breasted Starling of Vulturine Guineafowl, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Magpie by Mike Newlon Starling, Black-capped and Grey-capped Social Weavers, Steel-blue Whydah and its host, Black-cheeked Waxbill.

Day 9: Yabello area. We have the whole day to bird the Yabello area and get better acquainted with Stresemann’s Bushcrow and White-tailed Swallow. Other birds we will be looking for are Gabar Goshawk, the shrike-sized Pygmy Falcon, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Mottled Swift, Foxy Lark, Tree Pipit, the localised Bare-eyed Thrush, ventriloqual Spotted Palm Thrush, African Grey Flycatcher, Pale Prinia, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Banded Parisoma, Hunter’s and Shining Sunbirds, Superb and Wattled Starlings, Chestnut Sparrow, Yellow-spotted Petronia, Chestnut Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, White-bellied Canary and White- winged Widowbird. A night drive in this exciting area could produce Donaldson- Smith’s and Slender-tailed Nightjars, Greyish Eagle-Owl, Northern White-faced Owl and Three-banded Courser. Nocturnal mammal sightings may include Striped and Spotted Hyaenas, Serval, African Wild Cat, White- tailed Mongoose, Senegal Galago, Ethiopian Genet and occasionally even Aardvark.

Day 10: Yabello to Shashemene. Following breakfast we will depart Yabello and make our way back north towards Addis Ababa on what Stresemann’s Bushcrow by Markus Lilje

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is, essentially, a travel day. In the late afternoon we will reach our comfortable hotel in Shashemene.

Day 11: Shashemene to Lake Langano via Lakes Shalla and Abijatta. The three neighbouring lakes in the central Ethiopian Rift Valley could not be more different from each other. The medium depth reddish-brown Lake Langano, shallow and brackish Abijatta, and the extremely deep, blue Shalla, once a volcanic crater and now home to several bubbling sulphuric hot springs. We will spend today exploring these lake shores and their surrounding woodlands and forests. Clapperton’s Francolin, Little Rock Thrush, African Thrush, Buff-bellied Warbler, Red-faced Crombec, Beautiful Sunbird, Rüppell’s Starling, Red-billed Oxpecker, Red-billed Firefinch, Bare- faced Go-away-bird, Black-winged Lovebird, Abyssinian Wheatear, White-winged Black Tit, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Greyish Eagle-Owl, Northern White-faced Owl, Slender-tailed Nightjar, Bearded Woodpecker and Masked Shrike occur in dry Acacia woodland, while Black-billed, Banded and Double-toothed Vulturine Guineafowl Barbets, Eastern Grey Woodpecker, White-rumped Babbler by Markus Lilje and Ethiopian Boubou are resident in forest areas. We will search the lake edge for the impressive Saddle-billed Stork and attractive White-browed Coucal. At Lake Abijatta we hope to find flocks of Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Northern Shoveler, Southern Pochard, Cape Teal, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Eastern Imperial and Long-crested Eagles, Grey Kestrel, Little Ringed, Common Ringed, Kittlitz’s and occasionally Caspian Plovers, many species of Palaearctic waders, Pallas’s and Lesser Black-backed Gulls (amongst several other species of gulls and terns), Collared Pratincole, Little Bee-eater, family groups of the wonderful Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Sand Martin and African Pipit. Mammals we may see here include Grant’s Gazelle, Oribi and Spotted Hyena. In the late afternoon we will head to a comfortable lodge overlooking Lake Langano, with views of the 4,000m (13,200ft) Arsi Mountains in the background.

Day 12: Lake Langano to Nazreth. We will spend the morning around our lodge exploring the wonders of the Bishangari area. This lovely lodge, which markets itself as Ethiopia’s first eco lodge, adjoins a magnificent grove of Sycamore figs that towers over our comfortable accommodations. Birding in the area is superb and we will visit some beautiful fig forest and associated woodland that teem with birds. Here we will look for Hemprich’s and Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, Lemon Dove, Narina Trogon, Lesser and Scaly-throated Honeyguides, Green Malkoha, African Hill Babbler, Double-toothed Barbet, Brown- throated Wattle-eye, Thick-billed Weaver, Crested and Scaly Francolins, endemic Yellow-fronted Parrot, Abyssinian Ground Thrush, Green Twinspot, Red- shouldered Cuckooshrike and Red-headed Weaver. Double-toothed Barbet Mudflats near the lodge host large numbers of waders, while by Markus Lilje

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pods of lazing Hippopotamus are sometimes seen in deeper water and mammoth Goliath Heron stalk through the shallows. In the afternoon we will depart this birder’s paradise for the financial town of Nazreth, where we will spend the night en route to the Awash region.

Day 13: Nazreth to Bilen. Today we drop down the immense western wall of the Great Rift Valley and travel across the wild Afar tribal territories. We will make a concerted effort to find the very rare and localised Sombre Rock Chat, Striolated Bunting and Blackstart, while Hamadryas Baboon may also be in evidence. This handsome beast sits on top of the edge of escarpments in large troops and soaks up the early morning sun. We will arrive at our lodge around midday and spend the afternoon birding the surrounds. This increasingly arid landscape is a haven for dry country resident and migrant Bare-faced Go-away-bird by Markus Lilje species. Watercourses and rocky outcrops harbour Eurasian Sparrowhawk, European Turtle Dove, the range-restricted Yellow-breasted Barbet, Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark, Common Nightingale, Blue Rock Thrush, Rufous-tailed and Black Scrub Robins, Boran Cisticola, skulking Upcher’s and Menetries’s Warblers, groups of Red-fronted Warbler, Black-crowned Tchagra, Southern Grey Shrike, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, and Chestnut-crowned and White-browed Sparrow-Weavers. This land is inhabited by nomadic Afar tribesmen who we will see dressed in their fine white cotton tunics, bedecked with traditional jewellery, daggers and spears. The men sport a unique bushy hairstyle, while women and girls are also extravagantly attired and adorned. They adhere strictly to their ancestral ways of tending their camel and goat-herds and roaming throughout this inhospitable land.

Days 14: Bilen to Awash National Park. After an early breakfast we will stop at the Alleghedi Plain. Here we will search for Martial and Short-toed Snake Eagles, Yellow- necked Spurfowl, the rare Arabian Bustard, Black-headed Lapwing, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse and Chestnut- backed Sparrow-Lark. Occasionally highly nomadic species such as Pale Rock Finch or Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark move into the area as well. We will then head to the magnificent Awash National Park where we will bird Fulhowa Hotsprings, the Awash River and Kirayawa Gorge, exploring riverine forests, wetlands, Acacia woodlands, savanna grasslands, rocky hills, cliffs and escarpments. The park boasts a bird list of around 460 species and we will make an effort to find, amongst many others, Egyptian Vulture, Bateleur, Tawny and Greater Spotted Eagles, African Harrier-Hawk, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Scissor-tailed Kite, Shikra, Helmeted Guineafowl, Common Buttonquail, the nocturnal Three- Saddle-billed Stork by Markus Lilje

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banded Courser, mega Star-spotted Nightjar, Eastern Plantain-eater, the diminutive Pearl-spotted Owlet and giant Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Blue-naped Mousebird, gaudy Purple, Lilac-breasted and Abyssinian Rollers, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Eurasian Hoopoe, Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Greater Honeyguide, Wire-tailed Swallow, Red-winged, Gillett’s and Singing Bush Larks, White- browed Scrub Robin, over-wintering Common Rock Thrush, localised Ashy Cisticola, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Grey Wren-Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Grey-headed Batis, Mouse- coloured Penduline Tit, Slate-colored Boubou, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Northern Puffback, Somali Fiscal, Nile Valley and Marico Sunbirds, Grey-headed, Orange-breasted and Rosy-patched Bushshrikes, Fan-tailed Raven and Red-billed Quelea. In the afternoon we will settle into our lodge overlooking Awash Falls.

Days 15: Awash National Park. Today we will spend a full day in this great national park. During our explorations we also hope to find dazzling Northern Carmine Bee-eater perched atop the backs of striding Kori Bustard, a seldom observed phenomenon. In fact this is bustard kingdom deluxe and nowhere else on the planet can boast the chance of no less than six bustard species in one day (Kori, Arabian, Buff-crested, White-bellied, Black-bellied and Hartlaub’s)! Mammals are also well represented and we may see Aardwolf, Leopard (unlikely), Beisa Oryx, Aardvark, Soemmering’s Gazelle, Yellow-breasted Barbet by Rich Lindie elegant Gerenuk (the giraffe-proportioned relative of the widespread Impala), Abyssinian Hare, African Wild Cat, Black-backed Jackal, Spotted and Striped Hyenas, Greater and Lesser Kudus, Warthog and Salt’s Dikdik. Day 16: Awash National Park to Weliso. This morning we can enjoy some final birding in Awash NP searching for any key species that we may still be missing. We will then embark on the drive to Weliso via the capital, Addis Ababa, where we will transfer to 4x4 vehicles. We can expect to arrive in Weliso in the late afternoon to early evening.

Day 17: Weliso to Debre Birhan via Ghibe Gorge. We leave early this morning for Ghibe Gorge, one of only a handful of fairly reliable sites for the very difficult Red-billed Pytilia. Other delectable birds we will search for include Vinaceous Dove, Abyssinian and Black- cheeked Waxbills, Black-faced and Bar- breasted Firefinches, Moustached Grass Warbler, the scarce Yellow-rumped Seedeater, Foxy and Red-faced Cisticolas, Whinchat, Green-backed Eremomela and Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat. In the late morning to early afternoon we will begin the journey north towards Debre Birhan, situated near the majestic Ankober Escarpment. Scissor-tailed Kite by Markus Lilje

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Day 18: Debre Birhan and excursion to Gemasa Geden and Melka Gebdu Track. Our target species for this morning’s excursion to Gemasa Geden are the localised Ankober Serin, a rare and elusive Ethiopian endemic discovered only in 1976 that survives along a few kilometres of this grand escarpment, and the Gelada or Lion-headed Baboon. This densely-pelted, shaggy baboon is endemic to Ethiopia and the males can often be seen flipping back their lips in a show of dominance. These animals have the closest vocal repertoire to humans of any mammal, pronouncing all the consonants and four vowels! They forage on the Kori Bustard with Northern Carmine Bee-eaters grasslands above the escarpment and roost in by Rich Lindie the inaccessible cliffs at night. Other possible species include Bearded Vulture, Verreaux’s Eagle, Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Peregrine Falcon, the seldom recorded Somali Starling and Long-billed Pipit. We also hope to have enough time to venture down into the steep valley below the Ankober Escarpment and along the Melka Gebdu Track, where we will search for the extremely range-restricted Yellow- throated Serin.

Day 19: Debre Birhan to Addis Ababa via the Jemma Valley and depart (or overnight in Addis Ababa for those doing the Lalibela Extension). An early departure from Debre Birhan is essential in order to be at our chosen site when the endemic Harwood’s Francolin is at its most vocal, thus providing our best opportunity for seeing this elusive species. The Jemma River is one of the main tributaries of the Blue Nile and it cuts a 700m (2,300ft) deep gorge through the landscape. The habitat in the gorge is dominated by Acacia woodland while the steep sides provide habitat for some excellent endemic birds. We will concentrate our search here for Rüppell’s Vulture, African Hawk-Eagle, Augur Buzzard (dark morph birds are commonly seen here), Lanner and Peregrine Falcons, Erckel’s Francolin, Nyanza Swift, Red-rumped Swallow, Abyssinian Wheatear, the endemic and localised Rüppell’s Black Chat, endemic White-winged Cliff Chat and its more familiar cousin, Mocking Cliff Chat, endemic White-billed Starling, elusive Yellow-rumped Seedeater and Cinnamon-breasted and Ortolan Buntings. We will have a picnic lunch at the river and bird the surrounding woodlands for Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Black-billed Barbet, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Foxy and Singing Cisticolas, African Paradise Flycatcher, Masked, Woodchat and Isabelline Shrikes, Swainson’s Sparrow, Bush Petronia, Speckle-fronted Weaver, Red-collared Widowbird, Black- winged Red and Yellow Bishops, and Crimson-rumped and Abyssinian Waxbills. In the mid-afternoon we will depart for the drive back to Addis Ababa. This evening we will enjoy a farewell dinner and those staying on for the Lalibela Extension will overnight Gelada by Markus Lilje

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in Addis, while those not participating in the Lalibela Extension will depart on their international flights home.

Lalibela Historical Extension II

St. George's Chapel by Steve Davis

To do full justice to the cultural and historical aspects of this tour, we offer a short yet very worthwhile extension to the northern town of Lalibela, where we explore the unique 12th century monolithic churches, hewn out of solid rock and now appropriately considered one of the wonders of the world. These structures must be seen to be believed, and we encourage you to take advantage of this great opportunity to witness and investigate these marvels of human effort and ingenuity!

Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa. We will arrive in Addis Ababa in the late afternoon. Here we will overnight before our flight to Lalibela the following day, where our Historical Extension will begin in earnest.

Day 2: Addis Ababa to Lalibela. This morning we catch a flight to the historical village of Lalibela. At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries, King Lalibela of the Zaghwe dynasty excavated a series of rock hewn churches, the New Jerusalem as he called it, now rightly acknowledged as one of the wonders of the world. There are eleven churches in this town White-winged Cliff Chat by Markus Lilje named after him with others in the surrounding

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countryside, all of which are currently still in use. It is estimated that the churches took 25 years to construct, using an enormous labour force. After checking into our accommodations we will start our tour of the first group of churches, returning to the hotel for lunch and then continuing our exploration of these unique and breath-taking constructions in the afternoon. Whilst our main focus here will certainly be the churches and their associated history, we will also find ourselves constantly distracted by the numerous White-collared Pigeons, White- winged Cliff Chats and White-billed Starlings that inhabit the area. Our comfortable hotel frequently arranges cultural music and dancing during dinner. Old Nakuto Leab manuscript by Steve Davis Day 3: Excursion to Asheton Mariam. After breakfast we set off on mules or on foot for the steep climb up to the church of Ashetun Mariam. Hewn out of the rock atop a 4,000m (13,200ft) high ridge to the east of Lalibela village, this church affords spectacular views of the surrounding rugged countryside. The well-vegetated slopes support a healthy avifauna typical of northern Ethiopia, and we may find Erckel’s Francolin, the handsome Augur Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture, White-fronted Black Chat, Abyssinian Catbird, Little Rock Thrush, Thick-billed Raven and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. The Lalibela area also supports numerous endemics, with our tour in 2009 recording thirteen Ethiopian endemics here in a single day, including the stunning White-backed Black Tit. In the afternoon we will visit the picturesque cave church of Neakuto Leab and spend some time birding in the area. The waterfall behind which the church is situated attracts large numbers of birds in the late afternoon and we hope to find Hemprich’s Hornbill, the scarce endemic Banded Barbet, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe and large flocks of White-billed Starlings, amongst others.

Day 4: Lalibela to Addis Ababa. After some final exploration of the Lalibela area, we will fly back to Addis Ababa where we may have time to explore some of the historical sites and museums in the city before starting the main Ethiopian Endemics Tour.

FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: Tour dates, prices, single supplement rates, approximate flight costs and spaces available for this tour are displayed on our website. (For the main tour, click here. For the extension, click here.) Please see under IMPORTANT NOTES below.

This includes:  On selected tours we are able to arrange free transfers to our specified hotel or airport, within 3 days of the beginning or end of the main tour. However, since our capacity to offer this service can vary from tour to tour, details of this option will be sent to you upon confirmation of this tour;  All meals from dinner on day 1 to dinner on day 19, and from dinner on day 1 to lunch on day 4 of the extension;  Bottled drinking water;  A soft drink/water at meals;

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 All lodgings during the tour, including the three nights of the extension for those doing the extension;  All ground transportation;  All national park and other reserve entrance fees; and  All guiding services (including tips for local guides and services).

This excludes:  ANY flights, (see above);  Visa fees;  Alcoholic beverages; and  Special gratuities, telephone calls, laundry and other items of a personal nature.

IMPORTANT NOTES: a) Due to constantly fluctuating exchange rates, we quote our tours in 4 currencies. The tour price is however fixed only in the currency printed in bold, and the actual cost in the other currencies listed will be adjusted according to prevailing exchange rates at the time of final invoicing (usually 4 months before the tour.) The same applies to approximate flight and single supplement rates, which are also quoted in the respective fixed currency. b) Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration a small party supplement will have to be charged. c) Furthermore, these costs are subject to unforeseen increases in tour related costs and may have to be adjusted as a result. d) Lastly, we may be forced to change or alter the itinerary and / or the designated Rockjumper leader/s at short or no notice due to unforeseen circumstances; please be aware that we will attempt to adhere as close to the original program as possible.

Tipping: As noted above, gratuities (drivers, hotel staff, restaurants etc.) are included on this tour. However, this does NOT include your Rockjumper leaders. Therefore, if you feel that they have given you excellent service, it is entirely appropriate to tip them.

Please Note:  It can be very hot in some areas, especially in the extreme south, whilst the highland areas can get cold especially at night and light rain may be experienced in the Bale Mountains.  On our visits to the Bale Mountains we get up to 4,200m (13,780ft) above sea level, but very little walking is done at this altitude.  There are several long, all day drives on this Ethiopia trip but we will take regular rest stops and birding stops to break the long journeys. The longest drives are the Lake Awassa to Goba, Harenna Forest to Negele, Negele to Yabello and Yabello to Shashemene drives and, although they are lengthy, they are scenic and full of interesting waypoints! The drive to Sof Omar can also take up to 4 hours, depending on road conditions, so a very early departure is necessary.  Road conditions in Ethiopia are highly variable and dirt roads can be quite bumpy and very dusty, something that is simply not avoidable. It is advisable to bring a handkerchief that can

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be tied around your face to cover your nose and mouth. Although an extreme case scenario, persons with back troubles should probably bring back-braces to ensure comfort on bumpy roads.  Due to potential security issues we cannot guarantee that the day trip to Bogol Mayo will go ahead. We will assess the security situation at the time and plan accordingly.  Accommodation throughout the trip is generally comfortable but can be fairly simple in the south. Please note that the hotels that we make use of are always the best available accommodations in most areas visited (exceptions are in places like Addis where there are very expensive luxury hotels that we tend to avoid).  The food in Ethiopia is generally fairly basic and consists of western and local cuisine. We will also enjoy many “bush breakfasts and lunches” on the side of the road whilst in good birding areas. This will occur mainly in the remote south and north of the country and will be prepared by our very able drivers. Although rather basic, these meals are often a highlight of any tour to Ethiopia.

ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE DETAILS: Main Tour – You may arrive in Addis Ababa anytime you wish on day 1 as this is an arrival day. The tour will conclude in Addis Ababa after farewell dinner on the evening of day 19. Historical Tour Extension - The extension will depart from Bole Airport in Addis Ababa on day 2 of the extension, and will conclude in the late afternoon on day 4 at Bole Airport in Addis Ababa. The above information in respect of arrivals and departures is a guide only. Precise arrival and departure information will be sent to you in your Tour Confirmation package once the tour has been officially confirmed. If you wish to arrive early and/or depart late and would like assistance in this regard, kindly contact the Rockjumper office.