Remember the Eighties
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DAILY EDITION 13 JULY 2016 1 Times Two Fashionably May Raw Material Kirna Zabête is expanding, New Prime Minister Chanel buys a majority stake with a pop-up shop in the Theresa May admits in Millau, a French tannery Hamptons and a store in she loves shoes — and is that specializes in high-end Bryn Mawr. PAGE 9 surprisingly stylish (for a lambskin. PAGE 3 politician). PAGE 15 Fashion. Beauty. Business. BUSINESS Presidential Election Tarnishes Free Trade ● Experts are cautious about U.S. trade outlook in the midst of a bruising race for political leadership. BY KRISTI ELLIS WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ARTHUR FRIEDMAN WASHINGTON — Global trade has taken a beating in the presidential race, potentially hurting the chances for a sweeping Asia-Pa- cific trade deal and raising questions about the direction of U.S. trade policy. As Republicans and Democrats head to their nominating conventions — led by the Republicans from Monday to July 21 in Cleve- land, followed by the Democrats July 25 to 28 in Philadelphia — the debate over trade will follow them as delegates vote on platforms that reflect the parties’ principles and help guide the next president. The antitrade forces have slowed down approval of a cornerstone of President Obama’s trade agenda this year — the CONTINUED ON PG. 13 RETAIL Men’s Collections Amazon Spring Prime Day 2017 Yields Gains, FASHION Glitches ● The online retailer doubled down for its second annual Remember event Tuesday, offering twice as many deals and stirring up competitive spirits in the retail sector. BY MAGHAN MCDOWELL WITH The Eighties CONTRIBUTIONS FROM VICKI M. YOUNG The German-born Robert Geller took a turn back in time to Berlin in the Amazon doubled down for its second early Eighties for his spring collection, referencing the New Romantic era annual “Prime Day” Tuesday, offering twice that sparked a movement “not bound by restrictions,” he said. His strong as many deals and stirring up the competi- tion in the retail sector. collection of duster coats, high-waisted pants and leopard prints was “Prime Day” — which launched last year and celebrated the company’s 20th anniver- reminiscent of Kraftwerk and their ilk, but with a new sense of freedom sary — raked in sales of about $400 million in its first outing. Analysts from MKM projected and playfulness from the designer not seen in past seasons. that Amazon would double its Prime Day For more on the second day of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, revenues this year, with others saying the company’s take could go as high as $1 billion. see pages 4 to 8. There were some concerns among the investment set, though, which took a wait- and-see approach and traded shares of CONTINUED ON PG. 12 Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photograph WE ARE BOLD WE ARE INNOVATORS WE ARE www.tefron.com 13 JULY 2016 3 BUSINESS a supple leather used for some of Chanel’s OUT THIS WEEK IN iconic quilted leather goods. Chanel Acquires French In tandem with the acquisition, Chanel plans to “invest in order to reinvigorate the Lacaune segment and boost innovation, in Lambskin Tannery particular regarding new methods of vegeta- ble and synthetic tanning.” Chanel is keen to ensure savoir faire and ● The facility employs 40 people this sector,” Pavlovsky said. production capacities around its key prod- and is prized for its specialty In 2012, Chanel acquired Causse, a glove ucts. Also in 2012, the firm acquired Scottish manufacturer whose workshop is located in cashmere expert Barrie knitwear, maker of leathers. Millau. It also owns another French tannery Chanel’s bicolored cardigans and other sweat- in the vicinity, Bodin-Joyeux, also specializing ers for more than 25 years. BY MILES SOCHA in lambskin and with more than 150 years of Europe’s big luxury groups are jockeying experience under its belt. to secure suppliers of the rare raw materials PARIS — Signaling the importance of securing Richard specialized in what is known as and technical know-how needed to make their rare raw materials for luxury goods, Chanel Lacaune and Entrefino lambskin “plongé,” high-margin products. said it has acquired a majority stake in a French tannery that specializes in high-end Chanel small lambskin. leather goods. Financial terms were not disclosed. Founded in 1852, the family-run Richard tannery in Millau, part of the Aveyron region in France, is prized for leathers with metallic, pearly, printed, varnished or crushed finishes. It is already a major supplier to Chanel, particularly for its small leather goods. Richard has evolved from a supplier of The New Couture leathers for gloves and garments to a sharper ● Tradition and experimentation focus on footwear and leather goods, accord- made for an fascinating fall season. ing to Chanel. Managing director Xavier Richard has Big Changes in the Atelier almost 30 years of experience at the company, ● Valentino and Dior are thrust into which employs 40 people and exports about 60 percent of its leather production. transition in the creative suite. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fash- ion, said the acquisition adds a “crucial link to Swim City our chain of leather goods manufacturing and ● Brands at Miami Swim Week aim to provides Chanel with an opportunity to con- maintain momentum. solidate our network of excellence in leather.” The intent is to create cluster of leather PLUS: specialists in Millau that is “dynamic and the ● Bridget Foley’s Diary most effective guarantee of sustainability in ● Report Card ● Social Studies FASHION Tonton and Munn Win Woolmark Asia Awards “He’s the sixth Fendi child.” — CARLA FENDI ● The prizes were awarded Fafa in Tokyo and Ara in Jakarta. Leigh before launching his own brand. ON KARL LAGERFELD Tuesday in Hong Kong. Inspired by the concept of Korean fam- Muun, founded in 2013, currently sells at ilies being separated by the North/South Leclaireur in Paris, MK2UK in London, Sea- BY AMANDA KAISER Korean divide and desiring to reunite, Munn word in China. designer Hyunmin Han employed weaving Raeburn said he felt both Tonton and Munn and braiding into his designs. He produced a showed a certain level of “business acumen” Indonesia’s Tonton and South Korea’s floor-length coat featuring a bottom section in terms of their presentations. The British Global Stock Tracker Munn — two brands that have examined their of woven strips of material and voluminous designer said he liked that Tonon wants to As of close July 12, 2016 own cultures for creative inspiration — have trousers assembled from panels of pinstripe grow sustainably rather than exponentially snagged the women’s and men’s Woolmark fabric- both of these items were trimmed in and he appreciated the construction of ADVANCERS Asia prizes, respectively. selvage strips. He also designed a textured Munn’s garments. A panel of judges, including men’s designer sweater and scarf and a woven bag to com- Overall, he said he was impressed by the Anta Sports Products Ltd. Christopher Raeburn and Hong Kong-based plete his look. quality of the design talents he saw. +5.26% handbag designer Fiona Kotur, made the Through a translator, Han explained that “I think we’ve all been pleased with the Matsuya Co. Ltd. selection from a field of ten nominees for prayer ribbons at the Freedom Bridge along caliber,” he said. “Even if they were working +4.71% women’s wear and six for men’s wear, hailing the Demilitarized Zone in Korea prompted his with traditional techniques, they were able to Li & Fung Ltd. from China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea use of the selvage strips. move things forward.” +4.56% and Indonesia. The prizes were awarded Tues- “It’s like a message,” said Han,32, who Similarly, Kotur said she sensed some of day in Hong Kong at the PMQ retail complex worked for Korean brands Wooyoungmi and the participants had real potential to succeed Ascena Retail Group Inc. and design hub. beyond their home countries. +4.54% Both winners, along with the other contes- Tonton’s “It was nice to see innovation in a global Brunello Cucinelli SpA tants, came up with an original look incorpo- winning look. context coming out of this region too,” she +4.46% rating Woolmark wool. said. Toton Januar Heri Nugroho, who designs The winners of the various regional Wool- Tonton, created a look that attempts to mod- mark competitions will compete at the wom- ernize Indonesian heritage garb and crafts- en’s wear and men’s wear finals in early 2017. DECLINERS manship. Working with artisans in West Java, The competition’s overall 2016-17 winners Ted Baker plc he and his partner, Haryo Balitar, turned out a in each category will each win 100,000 -2.85% hand-embroidered jacket in a botanical motif Australian dollars, or $74,955, and have worn with handloom woven pants. Woven their Woolmark Prize collections stocked in Unilever plc slip-on shoes and a textured blouse rounded retailers including Harvey Nichols in the U.K., -2.12% out the ensemble. Australia’s David Jones, Japan’s Isetan, South Debenhams Plc “They [the Indonesian artisans] are tradi- Korea’s Boon the Shop and Matchesfashion. -1.73% tionally doing handloom fabric. And for Wool- com. Luen Thai Holdings Ltd. mark, we incorporated wool to be made into Australian brands Macgraw and Exinfini- fabric with their artisanship,” said Toton, 38, a tas were named the regional finalists for the -1.59% Parsons graduate and the son of a seamstress Australia and New Zealand region. Esprit Holdings Ltd. mother. Faustine Steinmetz and Cottweiler were -1.55% Tonton, founded in 2012, counts 10 sales chosen as finalists of the British Isles regional.