Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Collections Fashion. Beauty. Business. DAILY EDITION13JULY 2016 The Eighties Remember FASHION see pages 4to8. For more York on the second day ofNew Fashion Week: Men’s, and playfulness from not seeninpastseasons. thedesigner butwithanewreminiscent senseoffreedom andtheirilk, ofKraftwerk ofduster coats,high-waistedcollection pants andleopard was prints that sparked amovement “notbound strong by hesaid. His restrictions,” early referencing spring Eighties for collection, his theNew Romantic era RobertThe German-born took Geller aturnbackintime to Berlin inthe Spring Men’s 2017

Bryn Mawr.Bryn Hamptons andastore in shop inthe with apop-up expanding,Kirna Zabête is Times Two PAGE 9 politician). politician). (for a surprisingly stylish she loves shoes —andis Theresa May admits New Minister Prime Fashionably May PAGE 15 BY BY ● Glitches Gains, Yields Prime Day Amazon RETAIL BY ● Free Trade Tarnishes Election Presidential BUSINESS and-see approachand-see and traded shares of investment though, which set, took await- company’s take could go ashigh$1billion. revenues year, this withothers saying the that Amazonwould double Day itsPrime its firstAnalystsouting. from MKMprojected —rakedsary ofabout insales $400million and celebrated thecompany’s anniver 20th tion intheretail sector. as many upthecompeti- andstirring deals annual Day” “Prime Tuesday, twice offering Amazon doubled down for itssecond Obama’s trade agenda year this —the approval ofacornerstone ofPresident guide thenext president. andhelp principles that theparties’ reflect follow vote themasdelegates onplatforms in Philadelphia —thedebate over trade will land, followed by theDemocratsJuly 25to 28 Republicans from Monday to July 21inCleve their nominating conventions —ledby the the directionofU.S. trade policy. trade andabout cific deal raising questions hurting for thechances asweeping- Asia-Pa beating inthepresidential race, potentially WASHINGTON —Globaltrade hastaken a

There were someconcernsamongthe Day”“Prime —which launched lastyear The antitrade forces have slowed down RepublicansAs andDemocratsheadto sector. competitive spirits intheretail as many up andstirring deals event Tuesday,twice offering down for secondannual its The onlineretailer doubled leadership. race forof abruising political U.S. trade outlook inthemidst Experts are cautious about KRISTI ELLISWITHCONTRIBUTIONSFROM IK M YOUNG M. VICKI CONTRIBUTIONS FROM lambskin. that inhigh-end specializes in Millau, aFrench tannery stake Chanel buys amajority Raw Material MAGHAN MCDOWELL WITH CONTINUED ONPG. 13 CONTINUED ONPG. 12 RHR FRIEDMAN ARTHUR PAGE 3 - - 1 WE ARE BOLD

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www.tefron.com 13 JULY 2016 3

BUSINESS a supple leather used for some of Chanel’s OUT THIS WEEK IN iconic quilted leather goods. Chanel Acquires French In tandem with the acquisition, Chanel plans to “invest in order to reinvigorate the Lacaune segment and boost innovation, in Lambskin Tannery particular regarding new methods of vegeta- ble and synthetic tanning.” Chanel is keen to ensure savoir faire and ● The facility employs 40 people this sector,” Pavlovsky said. production capacities around its key prod- and is prized for its specialty In 2012, Chanel acquired Causse, a glove ucts. Also in 2012, the firm acquired Scottish manufacturer whose workshop is located in cashmere expert Barrie knitwear, maker of leathers. Millau. It also owns another French tannery Chanel’s bicolored cardigans and other sweat- in the vicinity, Bodin-Joyeux, also specializing ers for more than 25 years. BY MILES SOCHA in lambskin and with more than 150 years of Europe’s big luxury groups are jockeying experience under its belt. to secure suppliers of the rare raw materials PARIS — Signaling the importance of securing Richard specialized in what is known as and technical know-how needed to make their rare raw materials for luxury goods, Chanel Lacaune and Entrefino lambskin “plongé,” high-margin products. said it has acquired a majority stake in a French tannery that specializes in high-end Chanel small lambskin. leather goods. Financial terms were not disclosed. Founded in 1852, the family-run Richard tannery in Millau, part of the Aveyron region in France, is prized for leathers with metallic, pearly, printed, varnished or crushed finishes. It is already a major supplier to Chanel, particularly for its small leather goods. Richard has evolved from a supplier of The New Couture leathers for gloves and garments to a sharper ● Tradition and experimentation focus on footwear and leather goods, accord- made for an fascinating fall season. ing to Chanel. Managing director Xavier Richard has Big Changes in the Atelier almost 30 years of experience at the company, ● Valentino and Dior are thrust into which employs 40 people and exports about 60 percent of its leather production. transition in the creative suite. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fash- ion, said the acquisition adds a “crucial link to Swim City our chain of leather goods manufacturing and ● Brands at Miami Swim Week aim to provides Chanel with an opportunity to con- maintain momentum. solidate our network of excellence in leather.” The intent is to create cluster of leather PLUS: specialists in Millau that is “dynamic and the ● Bridget Foley’s Diary most effective guarantee of sustainability in ● Report Card ● Social Studies

FASHION

Tonton and Munn Win Woolmark Asia Awards “He’s the sixth Fendi child.” — CARLA FENDI ● The prizes were awarded Fafa in Tokyo and Ara in Jakarta. Leigh before launching his own brand. ON KARL LAGERFELD Tuesday in Hong Kong. Inspired by the concept of Korean fam- Muun, founded in 2013, currently sells at ilies being separated by the North/South Leclaireur in Paris, MK2UK in London, Sea- BY AMANDA KAISER Korean divide and desiring to reunite, Munn word in China. designer Hyunmin Han employed weaving Raeburn said he felt both Tonton and Munn and braiding into his designs. He produced a showed a certain level of “business acumen” Indonesia’s Tonton and South Korea’s floor-length coat featuring a bottom section in terms of their presentations. The British Global Stock Tracker Munn — two brands that have examined their of woven strips of material and voluminous designer said he liked that Tonon wants to As of close July 12, 2016 own cultures for creative inspiration — have trousers assembled from panels of pinstripe grow sustainably rather than exponentially snagged the women’s and men’s Woolmark fabric- both of these items were trimmed in and he appreciated the construction of ADVANCERS Asia prizes, respectively. selvage strips. He also designed a textured Munn’s garments. A panel of judges, including men’s designer sweater and scarf and a woven bag to com- Overall, he said he was impressed by the Anta Sports Products Ltd. Christopher Raeburn and Hong Kong-based plete his look. quality of the design talents he saw. +5.26% handbag designer Fiona Kotur, made the Through a translator, Han explained that “I think we’ve all been pleased with the Matsuya Co. Ltd. selection from a field of ten nominees for prayer ribbons at the Freedom Bridge along caliber,” he said. “Even if they were working +4.71% women’s wear and six for men’s wear, hailing the Demilitarized Zone in Korea prompted his with traditional techniques, they were able to Li & Fung Ltd. from China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea use of the selvage strips. move things forward.” +4.56% and Indonesia. The prizes were awarded Tues- “It’s like a message,” said Han,32, who Similarly, Kotur said she sensed some of day in Hong Kong at the PMQ retail complex worked for Korean brands Wooyoungmi and the participants had real potential to succeed Ascena Retail Group Inc. and design hub. beyond their home countries. +4.54% Both winners, along with the other contes- Tonton’s “It was nice to see innovation in a global Brunello Cucinelli SpA tants, came up with an original look incorpo- winning look. context coming out of this region too,” she +4.46% rating Woolmark wool. said. Toton Januar Heri Nugroho, who designs The winners of the various regional Wool- Tonton, created a look that attempts to mod- mark competitions will compete at the wom- ernize Indonesian heritage garb and crafts- en’s wear and men’s wear finals in early 2017. DECLINERS manship. Working with artisans in West Java, The competition’s overall 2016-17 winners Ted Baker plc he and his partner, Haryo Balitar, turned out a in each category will each win 100,000 -2.85% hand-embroidered jacket in a botanical motif Australian dollars, or $74,955, and have worn with handloom woven pants. Woven their Woolmark Prize collections stocked in Unilever plc slip-on shoes and a textured blouse rounded retailers including Harvey Nichols in the U.K., -2.12% out the ensemble. Australia’s David Jones, Japan’s Isetan, South Debenhams Plc “They [the Indonesian artisans] are tradi- Korea’s Boon the Shop and Matchesfashion. -1.73% tionally doing handloom fabric. And for Wool- com. Luen Thai Holdings Ltd. mark, we incorporated wool to be made into Australian brands Macgraw and Exinfini- fabric with their artisanship,” said Toton, 38, a tas were named the regional finalists for the -1.59% Parsons graduate and the son of a seamstress Australia and New Zealand region. Esprit Holdings Ltd. mother. Faustine Steinmetz and Cottweiler were -1.55% Tonton, founded in 2012, counts 10 sales chosen as finalists of the British Isles regional. points worldwide, including Al Ostoura in Danish label Tonsure and German designer Kuwait, S*uce in Dubai, Le Charme de Fifi et Tim Labenda took the prizes for Europe. 4 13 JULY 2016

Michael Kors Men’s Spring 2017

Joseph Abboud tweaks to the line, with trousers that were slightly When you officially open the second day of New more flared and deconstructed jackets that felt York Fashion Week: Men’s at 9 a.m., it’s the gra- “breezy.” cious thing to do to treat your guests to breakfast. There were also a few frayed edges, “but in a That’s just what Joseph Abboud did on Tues- controlled way.” day, serving editors and retailers some hot (or This complemented the textures of the open- cold) victuals prior to his spring show. weave sweaters and served to enhance the “We wanted to be civilized,” the designer said Cuban flavor of the line. backstage before the show. Overall, the collection was classy and luxurious While the format may have been different, the — and very men’s wear. (He even cast a who’s who collection was classic Abboud. of classic American models including Alex Lund- The tailored clothing and heavy line was “all qvist and Sean O’Pry.) And that’s just how Abboud linen-driven,” he said, in a traditional palette of wants it. “You can’t be all things to all people,” he white, ivory and a “Havana brown.” said. “I know who I am and this collection is very Admitting that he is “not a huge fan of exag- consistent with my philosophy of clothes.” gerated, big silhouettes,” Abboud did make a few — J.E.P.

Joseph Abboud Men’s Collections Spring 2017

Michael Kors geometric hardware over a zip-up polo that Kors Michael Kors’ love affair with hybrids continued said would work as well at the office as on the this season with a fresh men’s wear collection full weekend. “He’s not changing bags,” the designer of new takes on everything from the suit to the said. track pant. Geometric patterns played a key role in “The hybrid situation in men’s wear is more eye-popping polka dots, pixellated patterns and important this season,” he said. “We’re seeing checks in short suits and oversize repp ties that traction. It’s what our guy is grabbing for.” paid homage to David Hockney. The hybrid mes- Case in point was a flared chambray pant sage was also evident in the tailored trouser jean, paired with a fitted turtleneck, and a cardigan with a windbreaker blazer and a flowy anorak.

— JEAN E. PALMIERI Chinsee George by photograph Kors 13 JULY 2016 5

Robert Geller Men’s Spring 2017

Gypsy Sport Grindr, among others, and helped ground the Only in the Gypsy Sport universe can soccer, creative effort. anime characters and 1920 flapper references Other inventive touches included mesh jer- coexist in the same story. seys and sheer chiffon in elongated tunics and The result was an inventive mash-up of soccer track suits that served to create a good balance jerseys embellished with tassels and lace panel- between the two opposite worlds. ing and contrasted with playful floral Japanese The gender-fluid approach and the street-raw cartoon prints. The cast of real people — “We only sensibility from seasons past continue to define used six models,” said Gypsy Sport designer Rio the Gypsy Sport man. The collection certainly isn’t Uribe backstage — came from Instagram and for everyone but is likely to influence others. — A.B.

Gypsy Sport Men’s Collections Spring 2017

Robert Geller Accents that added a level of sophistication Robert Geller has a weakness for the New included tonal paisleys, florals and subtle leopard Romantics. This time, his love for the genre was in- prints. fused with early Eighties Berlin youth. At that time, The designer’s signature somber color palette many young people were squatting in abandoned got a blast of energy through the use of bright buildings and that created an incredible art scene, pinks, greens and oranges in trousers, T-shirts and he said. pleated shorts. The rawness of that environment was soft- Geller’s adventure to Germany proved one ened through the use of flowy silks in elongated more time that his journey in men’s wear contin- trenchcoats, baggy basketball-length shorts and ues to be on the mark. — ALEX BADIA

Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs delicate varsity jackets. 6 13 JULY 2016

Men’s Simon Miller Spring 2017

Carlos Campos belts on bodysuits and jackets. A monochromatic This season, the nomadic Carlos Campos man palette consisting of crisp whites, shades of green journeyed to the tobacco fields of Havana. “I have and Campos’ signature navy dominated the offer- been going to Cuba for years,” said the designer ing, although he shook things up with an Art Deco backstage before his spring show, and it was truly graphic print that felt true to the Cuban era. evident in his reinterpretation of the traditional Women’s wear looks were introduced and guayabera shirt he transformed into an elongated blended well with the guayabera and military version that he renamed “The Jackebera,” as well references. as in loose jackets and even a bodysuit with utility But while the collection was a commercially pockets. friendly offering, it felt repetitive and clearly Military influences and bondage elements were needed editing. seen throughout in the use of straps of dangling — LUIS CAMPUZANO

Carlos Campos

Simon Miller In terms of denim — the foundation of the brand It’s clear that Chelsea Hansford and Daniel — Corrigan and Hansford are growing their made Corrigan, the team behind Simon Miller, are hy- in Japan collection and focusing on light washes. perfocused on their fabrics. Aside from the spring They also introduced a line of swim trunks that collection’s earthy palette of olive, mustard and could easily second as apparel for day. The trunks Men’s rust, which was derived from an olive plantation are made from a quick drying blend of nylon and Collections in Spain, the designers’ talking points centered cotton and feature details one would find on a pair around textiles — the kind that have been labored of jeans. Spring over but don’t feel or look like they have. Hansford said their women’s line continues to They’ve created T-shirts made from a mix of grow — it now makes up 65 percent of the busi- 2017 cotton and cashmere, textured linen shirts, a ness — but this collection showed their dedication suede bomber jacket and sun-dyed canvas utility to presenting interesting but viable ideas for jackets and pants. men’s wear. — ARIA HUGHES 13 JULY 2016 7

Men’s Spring 2017 Stampd

Krammer & Private Stoudt Policy

Stampd Chris Stamp is another California-based men’s wear designer Men’s who’s gaining attention from the industry — earlier this year he was selected as one of the 10 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Collections Fund award. Private Policy For his second showing at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Stamp Spring Private Policy this season used its collection to deliver a social expanded on his main proposition — streetwear-leaning contempo- 2017 message against what it saw as an affront to humanity. The issue rary clothes with military influences — by producing more knits and was detailed in a news article in the Associated Press titled: “Are tailored clothing. The knits were mostly oversize with open weaves slaves catching the fish you buy?” the designers said at their while the more formal pieces were still relaxed — Stamp’s version of presentation. a suit consists of a single-breasted blazer, shorts and an elongated The feeling of imprisonment was translated into a series of bond- T-shirt. He has also grown his footwear collection and showed slip- Krammer & Stoudt age elements that were seen throughout the line in details such as on soccer sandals that were worn with socks and a leather sneaker Celebrating the East L.A. culture of the cholos versus the surfers harness ties and gathers. Other extreme elements included plastic made in Portugal. was the main message of Krammer & Stoudt’s spring collection. aprons worn over pants made out of trash bags with a hazardous The designer, who opened his first store in Los Angeles earlier High-waisted pleated pants and striped guayaberas expressed waste print on them. this year, also addressed the see-now-buy-now trend in a logical the Latin influence while palm-tree print shirts, Mexican blanket The lineup was tamed through the use of shirting fabrics used in way by showing three fall looks that are available to purchase bomber jackets and technical anoraks with matching shorts anoraks, sleeveless shirts and pajamas tops. Wednesday and three other looks that will be available to purchase brought the surfer to life. The brand’s signature silk bombers paired with matching trou- this fall. While baseball shirts and workwear references enhanced the sers helped maintain a youthful point of view. But they were updat- “I want to get quicker to market,” he said. “We started as an brand’s Americana signature, the overall collection felt modern and ed this time in muted tones and styled with chains to drive home online brand and I don’t want to get too far from that. I want to make more diverse than in past seasons. the overriding message of the season. sure that we are consistently putting stuff out.”

Stampd photograph by Thomas Iannaccone by photograph Stampd — ALEX BADIA — LUIS CAMPUZANO — ARIA HUGHES 8 13 JULY 2016

Garciavelez Garciavelez Carlos Garciavelez continued to draw from his architectural background for spring, referencing the decay of roads, tunnels and bridges and the Men’s Spring 2017 cities themselves. Garciavelez offered a very pattern-heavy lineup, developing his own graphic prints and ex- EFM Oak ploring new styles of construction that resulted in EFM flirted with gender lines for spring, reimag- some unique novelty pieces. These included a tank ining men’s wear staples in mesh cardigans and top layered over a hooded sweatshirt in one piece fluid oversize ponchos. and pants turned inside out revealing exposed Models walked down the runway with face and cargo pockets and exposed seams as embellish- body paint — notably a band around their necks ment details. Such tricks managed to achieve a — that designer Donrad Duncan said “signifies balance between relaxed and sporty. strength to bring out the femininity of the males — LUIS CAMPUZANO and masculinity of the females.” Highlights of the line included ripstop parkas with athletic shorts Chapter and compression leggings, and a graphic window- pane bomber paired with cuffed trousers. EFM, shorthand for Engineered for Motion, con- tinues to use movement in easy silhouettes and relaxed fits to remain true to its signature mission. — FREDERICK MARFIL

EFM

Uri Minkoff In an increasingly digital world, people need to slow down and live in the moment. For Uri Minkoff, that point was driven home during a recent visit to Como, Italy, where he was struck by the different hues of blue, white and pink. He translated that message in his spring collection, where he sought to slow down time by using dancers moving in slow motion to model the Oak lineup. Their subtle moves allowed the technical Oak made its return to New York Fashion Week: elements of the fabric — performance-grade nylon, Men’s showing a collection on Monday that fit right sport jerseys, stretch cotton twill — to shine. into the ethos of the city the brand calls home. Minkoff’s love for cycling and triathlons — and Cofounders Louis Terline and Jeff Madalena, the materials used in the sport — were evident in who regained control of their business after the biking zip-up tops and articulated panels on the bankruptcy filing of former parent American back of the pants. These details added a late Nine- Apparel, offered a comfortable, basics-driven ties retro feel and an interesting cool factor. collection that was inspired by the artists who — JEAN E. PALMIERI populate the brand’s Brooklyn neighborhood. From paint-splattered shoes to easy Ts, cropped pants, golf jackets and sweats, it was a “super-pragmatic Uri Minkoff line” that all worked together to tell a cohesive story, Terline said. And this being New York, there was the req- uisite black leather — in this case, shorts. “We’re New Yorkers,” Terline said. “Bondage is always a subtext.” — J.E.P.

Rideau

Chapter Chapter’s Devin Carlson, who is based in Califor- nia, has developed a look that’s rooted in nostalgia from the Nineties — his last collection referenced the movie “Swingers” — and this season 1996 was on the brain. He looked to Baz Luhrmann’s “Romeo N-p-Elliott and Juliet” starring Claire Danes and Leonardo DiCaprio, which was released that year, and light sculpture artist Dan Flavin, who died that year. The blue lights that illuminated the room were an ode to Flavin, but Luhrmann’s film was central to the impressive lineup of boxy, high-waisted trousers and shorts styled with elongated bomber jackets, bowling shirts and mock neck T-shirts with drapey sleeves. Zipper details, a Chapter signature, decorated the pieces along with tonal embroidery that read “1996.” Carlson, who said his bottoms are popular with retailers, updated the pants silhouette with a slight bell shape. He also worked with prints for the first time, which were mostly floral or palm motifs, and synthetic fabrics to create an easy drape. Carlson’s approach seems to be working. In N-p-Elliott who was showing at New York addition to being sold at U.S. retailers including Nicholas Elliott, Fashion Week: Men’s for the first time, set out to American Rag, Odin, Ron Herman and Revolve, he’s create a collection full of contrasting elements. recently been picked up by Harvey Nichols and For example, a houndstooth check fabric, which Selfridges and will launch a women’s line, which is typically associated with more formal wear, will be sold at Need Supply, this fall. was used for a pair of drawstring shorts, while a — ARIA HUGHES traditional car coat was updated with a vinyl collar. Rideau Texture seems to be a calling card for Elliott, who Dylan Granger wanted to leave something to the also utilized velour, canvas, wool, cotton and ultra imagination, so he opted to show only eight looks suede. Ecclesiastical references were also a key for his spring collection. “There’s more to come,” element of the line — religious emblems and cross he said. Men’s embroidery appeared on tank tops and a sweat- What he did offer up was a line influenced by shirt that read “Holy.” the “beachy vibe of a Malibu sunset.” The shorts, Collections While Elliott had big ideas and multiple points elongated hooded sweatshirts and a soft suede of inspiration, he was able to boil them down into biker jacket in a dusty orange provided a certain Spring a cohesive, spirited collection that felt of the warmth to the minimal offering, but the wildly 2017 moment but also forward. patterned silk suits missed the mark. — A.H. — J.E.P. 13 JULY 2016 9

FASHION Kirna Zabête Expands With Two New Stores ● Shops are planned for East the lease for the store, which will be open Hampton, N.Y., and Bryn through Sept. 15, Buccini worked with interior designer Michelle Bergeron to tweak the Mawr, Pa. space, painting it with the signature Kirna BY JESSICA IREDALE Zabête red of the SoHo store while creating something “cheerful and beachy and happy.” As for securing merchandise for an entirely Beth Buccini is bringing Kirna Zabête new store on such short notice, Buccini said beyond New York City with two stores. A sea- she had her bases covered between immedi- sonal outpost of the women’s designer retailer ate orders and fall merchandise before she is opening Friday in East Hampton, N.Y., and signed the lease. a permanent store will open in November in “The fall merchandise has been pouring in Bryn Mawr, Pa., on Philadelphia’s Main Line. and our customer is really [in the Hamptons] A rendering and mood board for Kirna Zabête has been a retail fixture in the summer,” she said. “We do a signifi- Kirna Zabete’s in New York’s SoHo neighborhood since cantly large buy because we also do e-com- Bryn Mawr, PA Buccini and her friend and longtime partner merce. It’s all of the same inventory — we’ll store. Sarah Easley first opened the original store still keep the New York store fully in tact.” on Greene Street in 1999, moving to a larger Lines Kirna Zabête will carry in East Vetements, Rosie Assoulin and Off-White, as Fifth Avenue in Bala Cynwyd. space on Broome Street in 2013. After 17 years Hampton include Céline, Alaïa, Gucci, Fendi, well as beachier fare like Lisa Marie Fernan- Interior designer Steven Gambrel, who also running the business together, in January dez and Marysia. designed Kirna Zabête’s New York stores, will Beth Buccini Buccini bought out Easley’s equity stake. The Bryn Mawr store is a bigger, more design the Bryn Mawr location. “It’s going to “Sarah and I were trying to figure out what strategic commitment. Buccini moved her be very similar to what the New York store we were going to do with the business,” said family to the Main Line area five years ago. looks like but a little bit lighter and softer,” Buccini. “It was my goal to move forward and “I’ve been observing the fashion and I found said Buccini. She plans to open the store open more stores and really grow the e-com- women are hungry for new ideas and excited with resort collections from brands including merce business. That’s exactly what I’ve been about fashion and they’re really under- Céline, Chloé, Stella McCartney, Rosie Assou- doing for the past six months.” served,” she said. “I really went deep into the lin, Proenza Schouler, Sergio Rossi and Aquaz- The East Hampton seasonal store has come demographics in the area. There are so many zura, as well as a casual element represented together rather quickly. Buccini scouted universities and private schools all around, by Golden Goose, Off-White, Piamita and R13. the space and signed the lease on what was and really the only game in town is the mall.” Buccini declined to discuss sales figures formerly Gail Rothwell’s store at 66 Newtown Soon after Buccini bought out Easley’s but said Kirna Zabête’s e-commerce has Lane over Memorial Day weekend. Buccini stake, she began scouting locations in the grown dramatically and the store is up 12 owns a home in nearby Amagansett and Main Line. The store will open in Bryn Mawr percent overall for the year. Buccini is Kirna knows the shopping patterns of the local Village, a new development catering toward Zabête’s sole owner and has not taken on customer after holding several one-day pop- a high-end clientele, at 915 West Lancaster any investment for the two new stores. “I feel ups in summers past. “They were hugely Avenue, Suite 170. Kirna Zabête took a like it’s really a time for specialty stores,” she successful,” she said of the pop-ups. “I found 32,000-square-foot space in a former garage. said. “Women want something unique and that women really had a hunger to shop when Its neighbors include La Colombe coffee interesting and personal. In a world where they’re out there the entire summer. They’re shop and an Italian wine bar, Tredici, owned everything has gotten so mass, I’m hoping looking for cute clothes to wear out that night by Philadelphia restauranteur Greg Dodge. we’re catering to this customer and reach- and also trying to get organized for fall.” Buccini said the store’s competition will be ing her in markets where there’s untapped In a little more than a month after signing Neiman Marcus in King of Prussia, and Saks potential.”

BEAUTY Taylor Hill Named Lancôme Ambassador

● The American model’s first ad Taylor Hill “The Neon Demon,” which was directed by will break in January 2017. Nicolas Winding Refn. Lancôme called her a “role model of a BY JENNIFER WEIL generation of free spirits, who follow her on Snapchat and Instagram.” On social media, PARIS — Lancôme is adding to its star-stud- where Hill posts about her experiences at ded roster of ambassadors, with the nomi- runway show backstages, red carpets and nation of Taylor Hill on Tuesday. music festivals, she has garnered more than The American model will appear in the four million followers. L’Oréal-owned brand’s advertisements for Lancôme described Hill as a “genera- makeup and skin care beginning in January tional icon” and a “liberated young woman 2017. The first campaign featuring Hill is who, like many others, handles paradoxes being shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. like an art of happiness and a source of Françoise Lehmann, international positive energy.” general manager of Lancôme, said Hill “rep- “I love the vision behind this feminine resents a modern Lancôme, in harmony brand,” Hill stated. “This new role of with its time, with a subtle mix of sensual- ambassadress is a major step in my career, a ity, ingenuousness and sweet yet striking dream that has become reality.” beauty.” Lancôme’s other ambassadors include Lehmann added: “She is a very inspiring a bevy of models and actresses, including young woman for her generation: She is Lupita Nyong’o, Julia Roberts, Penelope immensely curious, open-minded and has a Cruz, Kate Winslet and — most recently — positive outlook on life.” Isabella Rossellini. The 20-year-old has appeared in adver- The brand in March said it would collab- tising and walked the runways for many orate again with Rossellini, who was the major fashion houses. Hill recently became first face of Lancôme, beginning in 1983. a Victoria’s Secret Angel, as well. The actress served as its ambassador for 14 She has recently tried her hand at acting, years. Lancôme signed the 64-year-old on

Hill photograph by Joseph Paradiso and Yuki/Lancôme Paradiso Joseph by Hill photograph making a silver screen debut in this year’s as a “muse” or spokesmodel. 10 13 JULY 2016

BUSINESS

An informal garment factory located on the Bangladesh Alliance outskirts of the center of Dhaka. Staying the Course, Cites Progress

● Despite two recent terrorist Moriarty said many brands and retail- attacks, the Alliance for ers have Bangladeshi or South Asian personnel on the ground in Dhaka, who independent inspections on the struc- factory owners closing down facilities Bangladesh Worker Safety continue to operate, but he acknowl- tural, electrical and fire-safety aspects that cannot be remediated and opening is on track to remediate all edged that some buying teams from the of all factories from which its members new ones. critical safety issues in its U.S. and other countries are not trav- source. The Alliance has also changed and eling to the country in light of security Factories receive corrective action updated how it evaluates factory prog- active factories by 2018. concerns. plans aimed at helping address safety ress on remediation, after coordinating BY KRISTI ELLIS The State Department issued two issues and achieving compliance with the with stakeholders, he added. travel warnings in the past week, advis- Alliance’s safety standards. The group “With this new approach, we avoid ing Americans to “carefully consider the also provides technical advice and access penalizing factories that are making WASHINGTON — The Alliance for Ban- risks of traveling there” and authorizing to low-cost loans to assist factories with steady progress but may be stalled in gladesh Worker Safety is pushing forward the voluntary departure of family mem- remediation. It said it is on track to reme- some areas due to circumstances they and making progress on safety remedi- bers of U.S. government personnel at the diate all critical safety issues in its active cannot control, like delays in importing ation in the garment industry despite U.S. Embassy in Bangladesh. factories by 2018. necessary equipment,” Moriarty said. “It two recent terrorist attacks that claimed “The U.S. government assesses that the Moriarty gave a quarterly progress allows us to encourage factories to fast- the lives of 23 people and sparked fears terrorist threat is real and credible,” the report, noting there have been several track remediation issues most critical among apparel brands, its country direc- agency warned. “positive developments” related to fac- to life safety rather than concentrate on tor said Tuesday. “What we are seeing, to some degree, tory safety improvements. relatively simple, not-as-critical fixes.” “Despite the unspeakable tragedies, is a lot of major brands holding off He said 28 factories to date have The Alliance is also in the process of the Alliance and its member companies unnecessary travel, or implementing a completed corrective action plans, an providing retraining to some 1.2 mil- will continue to stay the course, because travel ban for external personnel coming increase of 17 percent since the previous lion workers trained on fire safety and improving safety for the millions of men into Bangladesh at this point in time,” update, in April. The Alliance’s member providing “refresher” courses to about and women who make a living in Bangla- Moriarty said. “I am not aware of any- companies currently source from about 600,000 workers. In addition, 22,000 desh’s garment sector is a moral imper- body withdrawing personnel from Ban- 677 factories in Bangladesh. security guards working in Alliance facto- ative,” said James Moriarty, Alliance gladesh, nor aware of anybody canceling “Across all factories, more than one- ries have received safety training. country director, who briefed reporters contracts. I think there is an inclination third of issues most critical to life safety “We’ve also provided financial from Dhaka on a second quarterly safety to do business in Bangladesh. It is an have already been addressed, two years compensation to nearly 7,000 workers progress report. important player.” ahead of the deadline,” he said. displaced by remediation, fulfilling The Alliance — made up of 28 mainly Asked if he was concerned about long- Six additional factories have been sus- 100 percent of the requests by factory U.S. firms, including Wal-Mart Stores term damage to Bangladesh’s image and pended since the first quarter, bringing owners and helping workers provide for Inc., Target Corp., Gap Inc. and VF Corp. economy from the attacks, Moriarty said the total to 83, as previously reported. themselves and their families despite — was formed in the aftermath of the he believes if there is effective action “Make no mistake — our work is temporary closures,” he added. Rana Plaza tragedy, which claimed the taken quickly, the long-term impact will achieving the big-picture goal of driv- The group has completed training for lives of 1,133 workers and injured more be limited. ing consolidation in the [ready-made democratically elected worker-safety than 2,000, along with the Accord on “If things worsen, then the country garment] industry in Bangladesh into committees at 34 factories and expects Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, will be in for a rough time,” he said. safer factories,” he said. “What we are to launch training at 60 more factories in comprised of 200 mostly European com- “There is a lot of anger in Bangladesh seeing is safe factories replacing more the next few months. panies with two global unions, Industri- about what happened. People think this dangerous ones and, frankly, hiring most As for the end of the five-year Alli- ALL and UNI Global Union. is not the way Bangladeshis behave. This of the workers that are coming out of the ance commitment in mid-2018, he said Concern and fear has spread in Bangla- is non-Bangladesh, non-Islamic. That factories that exist already.” there are discussions under way for a desh in the wake of a terrorist attack in gives me hope. There is really a revulsion Moriarty said he did not have an exact transition and noted, “We have gotten to Dhaka that killed 20 hostages, followed to what happened with the two attacks.” number of factories that have closed a point where our member companies by a bombing that killed three people The Alliance, now at the halfway permanently, but said there is a mix of really are sourcing from substantially just outside of the city. point of its five-year initiative, performs results from the suspensions, including safer factories.”

BUSINESS Even though volume will be lower than the same month last year, August is expected to be the peak shipping month Retail Imports on Rise for B-t-s of the year. The first half of 2016 is expected to ● Import cargo volume at major total 8.99 million TEU, up 1.5 percent comparisons in the wake of the West Ports covered by from the same period in 2015. Total retail container ports should Coast ports slowdown, we’re finally Global Port Tracker volume for 2015 was 18.2 million TEU, see an increase. starting to see normal trends. Some handled 1.63 million up 5.4 percent from 2014. numbers are still down from last year, TEUs in May. “Trade is holding on to a small margin BY ARTHUR FRIEDMAN but the pattern of building up toward of growth, but this growth comes in the the big seasons has returned.” face of some adverse statistics, as well as Import cargo volume at the nation’s Ports covered by Global Port Tracker positive ones,” said Hackett Associates major retail container ports should see handled 1.63 million Twenty-Foot founder Ben Hackett. “The good news is a “small but significant increase” this Equivalent Units, or TEUs, in May. That that retail sales have remained positive month as merchants stock up for the was up 12.8 percent from April and as the consumer continues to cautiously back-to-school season, then see a larger 1.1 percent from May 2015. One TEU spend. The hope is that this spending wave in late summer and fall for the is the equivalent of one 20-foot cargo will continue.” holiday shopping season, according to container. Global Port Tracker, which is pro- the monthly Global Port Tracker report June was estimated at 1.56 million duced for NRF by the consulting firm released Tuesday by the National Retail TEU, down 0.5 percent from the same Hackett Associates, covers the U.S. ports Federation and Hackett Associates. month last year. July is forecast at 1.64 of Los Angeles/Long Beach; Oakland, “Back-to-school and the holidays are million TEU, up 1.4 percent from last Calif., and Seattle and Tacoma, Wash., the two biggest shopping seasons of the year; August at 1.65 million TEU, down 2 on the West Coast; New York/New Jer- year for retailers and these numbers percent; September at 1.58 million TEU, sey; Hampton Roads, Va.; Charleston, reflect that,” said Jonathan Gold, vice down 2.6 percent; October at 1.62 mil- S.C.; Savannah, Ga.; and Port Everglades president for supply chain and customs lion TEU, up 4.4 percent, and November and Miami, Fla., on the East Coast, and

policy at NRF. “After a year of difficult at 1.52 million TEU, up 2.8 percent. Houston on the Gulf Coast. REX/Shutterstock by photograph Bangladesh 13 JULY 2016 11

BEAUTY easier that way, and it’s something I’m truly passionate about. I’ve been coloring my hair for so long.” Ambition certainly doesn’t seem to be an issue for social media stars. Merino has big plans for Artist Couture, which sells Beautycon Draws three products: Diamond Glow Powder, Luxurious Cheek Colour and Kissable Lip Laque. He detailed, “My goal for the brand is to have a full product line that can deliver your start-to-finish makeup routine and to Brands, Influencers start to retail at a department store.” Make- upShayla aspires to be a spokeswoman for ● There were 15,000 people, two-way conversations with consumers as “On the back end, they don’t understand a a major makeup brand. She said, “I would well as digital influencers. Julep was inviting lot of things about social media, and we are love to walk into a store and see my picture 90 brands, 230 influencers attendees to vote on its next lip color, an here to teach them.” everywhere kind of like how Zendaya is and a handful of celebrities initiative that’s emblematic of the brand’s Enthusiasm for collaborations at Beauty- the face of Cover Girl. Something like that squeezing into the Los Angeles approach to soliciting consumer opinions. con demonstrates why they’re multiplying. would be awesome.” “When we do collaborations with women Beautycon attendees, eighth-graders and Excusing social media sensations, their Convention Center. whether it is on art, packaging or actually friends Adanna Ogu and Nikki Olaleye were brands and the beauty trends they propel BY RACHEL BROWN involving them in making decisions about clearly excited about the YouTubers they as short-lived would be foolhardy. Ellen product development, we try to deeply follow connecting with beauty brands to Lennon, director of merchandising for QVC, understand what they care about and release products. “You already like the explained trends fueled by social media Nothing conveys the sway of social media reflect that in what we do,” said Jane Park, makeup, but when your favorite people are have had lasting impacts. “Contouring now more powerfully than long lines. chief executive officer and founder of Julep. helping out with the makeup, it’s a double has been a trend for a few years as has The medium has become so ubiquitous “The companies that will succeed will break whammy,” Olaleye said. Ogu chimed in, highlighting. They’ve always been strong for that it has catapulted ordinary people and down walls that don’t need to exist.” “It’s almost like receiving a little piece of us. It’s just that now they are being brought common place brands into super stars on Angel Merino, a social media personality them in your hands. It’s kind of sacred.” to the forefront. To us, it’s not an in-and-out the world’s most dominant stage. with the Twitter handle @mac_daddyy_, Social media sensations aren’t only flash in the pan. It’s really long term,” she This was evident at Beautycon on Satur- advised brands not simply to consider leveraging their audiences with product said. day at the Los Angeles Convention Center. sales figures when reaching out to digital collaborations, they’re turning them into Partially powered by social media, color It was impossible to escape teenagers and influencers. “It’s about building a genuine, customers for their own brands. “With the cosmetics remains a stellar category for twentysomethings — and the occasional sincere relationship where a brand isn’t just way that social media is growing and what a QVC and the beauty industry generally. Len- mystified parent — queuing to get inside seeing you as a number, but they are really big platform it is and how it has catapulted non said, “Lip has been really strong for us the venue, scour the latest from cosmetics brands once they were inside and make contact with their favorite content creators. The wait to greet digital beauty influencer Kandee Johnson pushed 90 minutes, and the line kept growing as the seconds ticked by. “This is where it all goes down. There are literally thousands and thousands of beauty customers and people in general that want to learn,” said Mally Roncal, founder of Mally Beauty, setting the scene from her brand’s station at the QVC booth. “I love teaching, educating and inspiring and, obvi- ously, making products that can help them achieve what they want to achieve — and they are all right here.” Specifically, there were 15,000 people, 90 brands, 230 influencers and a handful of celebrities, notably Tyra Banks, Kelly Row- land, Christina Milian and Ashley Tisdale, crowding 200,000 square feet. Atten- dance at Beautycon, a sort of conference, community meet-up and entertainment show wrapped into one, has doubled in three years, and it’s part of a constellation of events — Generation Beauty and IMATS are two others — that’s expanded greatly as social media and beauty information on the various platforms has exploded. Among the Beautycon attendees was Yasmin Khalil, a recent college graduate and sophomore visitor to Beautycon, who The scene at Beautycon 2016. was happy to brave the lines for a chance to interact with brands and social media personalities. She had Maybelline, Lime trying to develop a relationship and are so many careers, I definitely see a lot more and also highlighting. Our customer loves Crime, NYX and Tarte on her wish list of helping you achieve your goals,” he said. people taking that leap and developing highlighting. We also have a huge complex- brands to check out. “This year is much “When brands develop that relationship, their own products,” said Merino, who ion business and that continues to grow. We better than last year. Last year, we were everything flows so genuinely and the influ- launched the brand Artist Couture in 2014. are really excited to see lip jump as much as outside waiting in the line for two hours. It encer is more receptive to any ideas the “Many newer brands are popping and it has from last year.” was hot, and we were cramped, but it’s so brand has for campaigns or online social thriving because of social, and I think that’s It’s left to brands to figure out exactly much fun and everybody is so nice,” Khalil media promotion.” the direction that the beauty industry is how to incorporate the social media-driven said. “This year, it’s much more organized Although there’s been a flood of col- taking.” makeup concepts in manners that are and functional. It’s moving well.” laborations between social media beauty Not all social media-sparked brands relevant to them. “When I saw that baking A makeup hobbyist displaying her beauty gurus and brands, neither brands nor will prosper, as social media influencer was going to be a big thing, I thought most creations on Instagram under @makeme- gurus believe they are ebbing. The social Kristen Leanne, founder of hair color brand people my age — I’m 44 now — don’t nec- upyaz, Khalil asserted that participation in media personality MakeupShayla, whose Arctic Fox, knows too well. “It takes a lot essarily have time to bake. I created a con- Beautycon is critical for brands to stay in palette with Tarte has been a hit, suggested of perseverance. You have to try, try and cealer that is pre-baked. It does everything touch with Millennial preferences. “Some- brand-influencer partnerships are still in try again. I’ve had many brands that failed for you that you get when you bake your times when you are in corporations, you their early stages. “Brands are starting to and, when you have a failure, you have to concealer. It brightens and sets, and it does are trying to make money and a profit, you realize the power of influencers. Even a take the learnings from that and put it into it in one tube,” said Roncal, referring to a don’t really realize what’s going on with year ago, I feel a lot of brands were like, your next brand. One out of 10 isn’t going to term for layering powder over foundation girls our age. It’s important to see how we ‘Let’s find celebrities. Let’s find celebrities.’ be successful. You have to stay ambitious,” and concealer for a creaseless face. “I have act, how we are, what’s important to us So many people relate to influencers that she said. “I had a boutique before, and a been putting a lot of these trends into my and to learn how best to cater to us with the brands are now [saying] ‘Oh, that is lot of people were doing boutiques. There products, so that the customer doesn’t have products,” Khalil said. what we need to be doing.’ For the most are not as many hair color brands as there to actually do the trend, the product does

Photograph by Michael Buckner by Photograph Brands are increasingly open to having part, brands are starting to get it,” she said. are makeup and clothing brands, so it was the trend for them.” 12 13 JULY 2016

Amazon Prime Day The shopping rush has started to spread “Amazon has consistently demonstrated across the industry, in the vein of Alibaba’s its ability to break through the noise, whether Yields Gains, Glitches Singles Day or Hallmark’s Valentine’s Day. that’s using Prime to drastically alter con- Retailers such as J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Bon- sumer shopping behavior or using same-day CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 Ton, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Jet.com were delivery to offer instant gratification,” Scham- offering discounts and free shipping to draw bach said. “Prime Day is the first mobile-up shoppers. Unlike Valentine’s Day, though, shopping event for a simple reason: The they don’t refer to the offers as “Prime Day.” experience is as good, if not better, on mobile Penney went with “Penney Palooza,” for as it is on desktop.” Amazon down 0.7 percent on Tuesday to example, and Wal-Mart has barely mentioned Amazon has also been actively touting the $748.21. Still, that left the company with a its free shopping and rollbacks on Twitter. day on social media with a wink and a nod. market capitalization of $353 billion — $125 Amazon does not reveal the date of Prime When Matthew Ackerman @metalmmaniac billion higher than Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s Day until a month or less before the sales day, tweeted, “Didn’t really expect to find an $228 billion and a sign of just how much a which makes it harder for other retailers to engagement ring on Prime Day, but here I am. competitor Amazon has become across the plan competing events in advance. Helluva deal, too,” Amazon tweeted back, retail world. “Given the fact that Amazon controls “Yes. A million times, yes! We thought you’d Amazon did not release any sales data for The second outing of Amazon Prime Day started not only the timing of Amazon Prime Day, never ask.” the day as of press time. The online shopping with a glitch, but focused on the deals. but also the timing of when they announce Adobe Digital Insights studied more than day started off on something of a sour note, it, retailers will have a tough time trying to four million engagements on social platforms with a glitch in the checkout process leaving Black Friday, they just want to drive traffic compete on such short notice,” said James on Prime Day this year and last year, and some Prime members struggling to cash in in. What’s so thoughtful about how they have Prewitt, vice president of retail industry found that “sadness” was down this year on deals. architected Prime is that the things they give a strategy, North America, at JDA Software. while “joy” was up. It did note that the reason As the day wore on, the focus turned discount on are ways to keep making money “The breadth of their mix on Prime through for sadness this year was due to people not mainly to the discounts. While many of the off of you. It’s a sale, but the intent is to drive what they sell themselves and what they fulfill being able to add items and checkout, com- Prime Day deals centered on electronics, focus on the things that they have been for others through their marketplace is far pared with last year’s complaint of minimal there were plenty of price cuts in the fashion working on.” greater than what other major retailers can do deals. and beauty area, including up to 50 percent Charlie O’Shea, lead retail analyst at on their own.” Prime Day is still primarily a U.S. event, off electric shavers and hair tools, 30 percent Moody’s Investors Service, compared Prime HookLogic, which studied traffic and although mentions of the shopping day in the off apparel, shoes jewelry and watches, and Day with a “Ph.D. course in pricing and pro- conversion data of the e-commerce sites of United Kingdom are up 44 percent from last up to 60 percent off athletic shoes. moting in one day.” retailers such as Target Corp., Macy’s Inc. year, according to Adobe. Fossil, for example, had a Fossil Q Founder “Other retailers have to consider how long and Wal-Mart, said traffic was up “across the Prime members pay $99 a year for benefits Stainless Steel Touchscreen Smartwatch for do we have to go and at what point do we board” by midday Tuesday. such as free two-day shipping and streaming 30 percent off its $295, making it $206.50. walk away from a sale,” O’Shea said. “Retail- Some sites saw three-times more traffic of movies and TV episodes, and last year was (WWD found that same watch on Fossil.com, ers can’t be as good as Amazon’s ecosystem. than average. Among the top categories were the single biggest sales day for Amazon — also marked down from $295 to $205.99.) It’s just not going to happen.” electronics, which lead with a 22 percent including the holiday shopping season. A BCBGeneration dress that was originally The analyst also noted that Amazon is increase compared with an average Tuesday, Analysts estimate Amazon has more than $148 on Amazon and at Lord & Taylor and serving up deals and pointing customers to its and apparel and accessories, furniture and 45 million Prime members and designs to Bloomingdale’s sites was 30 percent off, broader assortment. sporting goods. And HookLogic anticipated keep growing its base. “Amazon Prime Day making it $103.60. Badgley Mischka heels “When you look at the ‘frequently bought larger increases later in the day. does more than drive brand awareness that were originally $245 (the same as on together’ suggestions, the additive pieces are The budding shopping holiday is seen by and revenue for the company,” said Mike Nordstrom’s and Lord & Taylor’s sites), were not on sale and that’s where Amazon gets it some as the first major sales event happening Elmgreen, chief marketing officer of B2B $171.50. margins,” he said. primarily on mobile. commerce platform Handshake. He said that Amazon’s house brands in fashion and Shoppers keen on making a purchase likely “Prime Day is the first mobile-first loyalty it’s a reminder to the industry of the power of accessories were also seeing discounts. A head to Amazon first to check out prices and event ever, let alone one at such a massive combining an easy online ordering experi- pair of men’s Franklin & Freeman boots were options, then check out other sites to com- scale,” said Demandware and NewStore ence with streamlined fulfillment. $64.75, down from $92.50, and a lace Lark & pare pricing, O’Shea said. founder Stephan Schambach. “It’s strikingly Greg Greeley, vice president of Amazon Ro dress, positioned among the likes of Anne “That checking creates a spillover to other clear that Prime Day is built mobile-up, with Prime, said: “We are always working to make Klein and Calvin Klein, was $34.52, down sites….Most brick-and-mortars have upped deals, gadgets and content all focused on sure customers find incredibly low prices on from $49.31. their online sites, and mobile is better than mobile consumers. Amazon is pushing its Amazon. Prime Day is designed to go above “I give Amazon a lot of credit for giving they were three or four years ago,” he said. shopping app as the hub for Prime Day, which and beyond for our Prime members. While people a reason to buy,” said Edward Yruma “If I’m a retailer, I want to be second in line. it continues to use as a fundamental tool to the inventory behind our Prime Day deals of Pacific Crest Securities. “When we look I want to be the site they go to after checking increase customer loyalty and therefore, this year is massive, at these prices, we expect at how other retailers do promotions like Amazon.” revenue. many deals will still sell quickly.”

BUSINESS Analyst: Amazon Could Own 10 Percent of Fashion by ’18

● Nearly half of U.S. consumers will own 10.1 percent of all U.S. apparel wholesale arrangements for the vendors is up 53 percent over the past two bought clothes on Amazon in spending, up from the 5.1 percent in with traditional markdown money. years. Nowak said, “As Amazon Prime 2015. He has also said apparel makes up Amazon is also driving this shift membership/penetration grows, so too the past 12 months. 16 percent of Amazon’s gross merchan- to online clothing purchases with its should Amazon’s overall share of U.S. BY DEBRA BORCHARDT dise volume. growing Prime membership. That base clothing and apparel spend.” While women still like to shop in physical stores because of fit issues, U.S. shoppers expect to increase their there are categories that are performing Amazon continues to online clothing purchases and Amazon well on Amazon. Casual tops and bot- steal market share. Here is Chiara is driving and benefiting from the shift. toms account for 44 percent of shop- Ferragni’s Amazon Morgan Stanley analyst Brian Nowak pers; 36 percent are going for partywear Fashion campaign. noted that 52 percent of shoppers have tops, and 27 percent are shopping for bought clothes online in the last 12 dresses. months and this is expected to rise, with Nowak said eBay was the only retailer 29 percent of online clothing shoppers in the survey where the U.S. online saying they would increase the amount clothing shopper penetration declined they spend over the next year. year-over-year, falling to 14 percent from Amazon is capturing more and more 16 percent. of these dollars. Forty-five percent Many department stores continue to of U.S. consumers bought clothes on see their own online business grow, but Amazon in the past 12 months, up now their key vendors are joining forces from 39 percent in the first quarter of with Amazon in order to not miss out 2015. “This is the largest year-over-year on this juggernaut of fashion sales. The increase of the 10 retailers we monitor,” customer can choose to buy a Michael Nowak said. “Amazon now has a two Kors handbag on either Amazon or on times-plus clothing shopper reacher Macy’s online store. The difference is in advantage.” the online experience. Macy’s may also Nowak believes that by 2018, Amazon find that Amazon could offer attractive 13 JULY 2016 13

Global trade has been in the spotlight this election season.

unfair trade and countries that inten- Peterson Institute for International [the rhetoric of imposing tariffs on China Presidential Election tionally undervalue their currencies to Economics, said if Clinton is elected she or Mexico] will become true. That is just gain an unfair commercial advantage. “will rediscover the geopolitical ratio- presidential election year rhetoric and Tarnishes Free Trade China, in particular, is often accused nale for trade.” really has no meaning to policy.” CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 of doing that. If elected, Clinton has “She has subscribed to that [in the Even if free trade takes a pause in pledged to appoint a special trade past]. That’s why she said TPP was a gold the short-term, most experts believe prosecutor who directly reports to the standard [while serving as Secretary of the resurgence in U.S. manufacturing, 12-nation Trans-Pacific Partnership — president to enforce trade deals. State under Obama],” he added. “She’ll particularly in textiles, will continue and, in so doing, muddied the outlook She has also said that she opposes the re-prioritize it and then come back to it unabated. for the future of global sourcing and TPP trade deal as it is currently written with her changes. It might not be a high “I think there are legitimate economic commerce. and has outlined three criteria for trade priority in 2017 but by 2018, she will anxieties that American workers feel. TPP includes the U.S., Australia, deals: create American jobs, raise wages probably be pushing it again. Those are valid and folks who support Japan, Mexico, Canada, Vietnam, Malay- and advance national security. “If Trump is president, I think it [TPP] free trade should not dismiss them,” sia, Peru, Singapore, Chile, Brunei and Republican presumptive nominee goes in the trash,” Hufbauer predicted. said Josh Teitelbaum, deputy assistant New Zealand and would encompass Donald Trump, on the other hand, has “Of course, he has reversed himself on secretary for textiles, consumer goods nearly 40 percent of the world’s GDP. vowed to withdraw the U.S. from TPP, other issues, but this is such a leading and materials at the Commerce Depart- Analysts and industry officials label China a currency manipulator and part of his campaign that it would be ment. “But withdrawing from the world acknowledge the image of trade has renegotiate the North American Free very hard for him to reverse on this.” stage and failing to pass agreements been tarnished, making it more difficult Trade Agreement with Mexico and Can- Trump’s antitrade rhetoric has some like TPP does nothing to open up new to sway the argument in favor of free ada, if elected. former Bush administration trade offi- markets.” trade and open markets. But most said Trump’s harsh populist tone on trade cials concerned. The Obama administration has they do not believe the U.S. is headed has many in the business community David Spooner, a partner at Barnes & been an active supporter of the textile back to the days of isolationism and concerned. The industry has signifi- Thornburg LLP, who was the chief tex- industry, recently investing millions in a protectionism, or the Smoot-Hawley Act cant exposure to trade policies, having tile and apparel negotiator at the Office public-private institute to develop smart of 1930 that significantly raised tariffs on imported $100.1 billion worth of apparel of the U.S. Trade Representative from textiles and promoting the industry at imports, crippled trade and contributed and textiles from the world, particularly 2002 to 2006, said Trump’s rhetoric on trade shows around the world. It also to the Great Depression in the U.S. from China, in the past year. trade has hurt the debate. negotiated strict rules in TPP to help Conventional wisdom points to a pres- Rick Helfenbein, president and “With Trump it hurts, not only protect the industry. idential candidate softening his or her chief executive officer at the American because he’s the party’s standard-bearer, Teitelbaum acknowledged the U.S. tone and picking up the mantle of free Apparel & Footwear Association, said of course, but also because he’s a busi- textile and apparel industry went trade once in office. it is hard to judge what a trade world nessman. I think voters see him as an through a “difficult time” in the late “Global trade will continue to expand would look like with Trump in the White international businessman and [think] Nineties and Aughts, a time when NAFTA even during the U.S. policy debate,” said House. he must be right if he thinks trade agree- was enacted and China joined the WTO. Phillip Swagel, a professor of interna- “He is so against everything,” he said. ments are terrible,” Spooner said. But he said there was also a paradigm tional economic policy at the University He noted that in a Trump presidency, The country could pull back from shift in sourcing, primarily the lifting of of Maryland. “The rest of the world is TPP would have “zero chance,” while in trade for a while before “people realize global apparel and textile quotas and moving without us. Ultimately, that’s a Clinton presidency, it would at least be again that opening markets is good for an “information technology revolution” why any President will look to further “revisited.” the U.S. and other countries” and a new where automation began substituting trade agreements — it’s about U.S. “Secretary Clinton’s position is differ- president has time to put a trade team in labor with technology. leadership as much as about economic ent,” Helfenbein said. “She has come place, Spooner said. He said the textile industry saw benefits, and there are many.” out against it, but you have to listen to Sheng Lu, assistant professor for the declines in shipments, sales and exports Swagel said the opposition to trade what she has said. She said when she Department of Fashion & Apparel Stud- from 2000 through 2009. stems from economic uncertainty. was working as Secretary of State it was ies at the University of Delaware, said Since then, the value of the industry’s “It’s an easy stand-in for our eco- supposed to be the gold standard, but he does not worry about the potential shipments are up 13 percent, the value nomic woes — slow growth, meager when it was completed it didn’t meet for trade wars because “nations are very of sales up 20 percent and the value of wage increases and stagnant incomes for her standards. What were her standards? rational these days. They understand the exports grew 17 percent, “making up for many families,” he said. “The answers New jobs for Americans and raising costs of trade wars. In the 21st century, the loss of exports in the first decade of are not simple — there is no one mag- wages for Americans. These are, at least [economies] are interdependent. the 21st century,” Teitelbaum said. ic-wand action to fix these problems, in my opinion, positions that could be “China is the third largest export mar- “We certainly went through difficult but instead a range of policy changes are repaired. ket for the U.S.,” Lu said. “The largest times but I think what we have seen is needed to boost growth.” “She has left some negotiating room. and second-largest are Canada and Mex- that we have come out of that period in A key pillar of Democratic presump- He has left no negotiating room,” Helfen- ico and that is because of NAFTA. A lot the last six years with a textile industry tive nominee Hillary Clinton’s jobs plan bein added. of U.S. businesses benefit from a stable that is more capital-intensive and com- is centered around cracking down on Gary Hufbauer, senior fellow at the relationship with China. So I don’t think petitive than it was before.” 14 12 JULY 2016

WWD Congratulates Ralph Lauren The Inaugural Recipient of The John B. Fairchild Honor Given to an individual for a career of influence and distinction At the WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit October 25, 2016 For more information [email protected] or 646.356.4722 summits.wwd.com 13 JULY 2016 15

ago, and she has never looked better. There is evidence she has been May wore a pair of knee-high black refining her image with a bid for the boots while greeting Queen Elizabeth party leadership in mind.” II at the Horse Guards Parade in 2015. A member of parliament since 1997, May’s personal style has clearly The Looks of blossomed over the decades. Her silhouettes are slim and fitted, from the cognac leather jacket to the bright, monochrome dresses and coats. She relies on accessories Theresa May to make the look — navy suits are inevitably paired with leopard or zebra Britain’s new prime minister has been cut- print shoes or gloves, and she’ll jazz ting a stylish swath through Westminster. up a black dress with red knee-high suede boots and a matching mock- croc handbag. With her windswept blonde-gray LONDON — Britain’s new Prime wardrobe and stacks of statement her one book would be “Pride and bob, a bit of black eyeliner and a per- Minister Theresa May takes up shoes — kitten heels, embellished Prejudice.” petual spring in her step, she’s cutting her post today in what promises flats, over-the-knee boots and Union Last October, during a speech at a swathe through Westminster which, to be a new era flush with tension, Jack trainers. the Women in the World summit, she like Capitol Hill, isn’t exactly teeming tough negotiations — and flashes of She wore Roland Mouret’s zip- said: “I like clothes and I like shoes. with style mavens. Even Thatcher leopard print. back “Bitzer” dress to the Conserva- One of the challenges for women was far from a fashion plate, favoring May, the second woman — after tive Party conference in September in the workplace is to be ourselves, staid Aquascutum suits and her fa- Margaret Thatcher — to hold the top and has a closet full of Vivienne West- and I say you can be clever and like mous Maggie Launer handbag, which post, is known among her parliamen- wood trouser suits and dresses. Her clothes. You can have a career and she wielded more like a weapon than tary colleagues as a steady pair of handbags hail from Anya Hindmarch like clothes.” an accessory. hands, puritanical to her fingertips (a fellow Conservative), Longchamp Last year, the novelist Allison Pear- At best, female MPs favor frumpy (she’s the daughter of an Anglican and Orla Kiely, and she favors British son, chief interviewer and columnist suits and sensible haircuts. At worst, vicar), and an unapologetic lover of high-street brands Russell & Bromley, at the Daily Telegraph, described they try to make statements with gar- fashion. L.K. Bennett and Clarks for shoes. May in the Mouret Bitzer dress at ish colors. On Monday, the Labour MP The 59-year-old Conservative, Two years ago, May told the the Conservative conference: “The Angela Eagle declared her intention to most recently Britain’s home long-running BBC radio program look was Carmelite mother superior become leader of the party dressed secretary and the woman charged “Desert Island Discs” that if she were switches career to high-class escort, in a bubblegum pink jacket and black with negotiating Britain’s exit from the a castaway, her one luxury would be styled by Victoria Beckham. Mrs. May scoop neck top and trousers. She European Union, possesses a snappy a lifetime subscription to Vogue, while entered her 60th year exactly a week looked like an extra from “Grease.”

runaway capitalism. last year: “We know that for people in “We need a strong, new and low-paid jobs, wages are forced down positive vision for the future of our even further [as a result of immigra- country,” she said earlier this week. tion] while some people are forced “A vision of a country that works not out of work altogether.” for the privileged few, but works for Now, 26 years after Thatcher every one of us. Because we’re going stepped down, another woman has to give people more control over their become the U.K.’s prime minister. lives. That’s how together we will build Thatcher’s decisiveness and Iron a better Britain.” Lady-demeanor spurred Britain to As prime minister, her priority an economic boom that lasted more will be to usher Britain out of the than two decades and raised the European Union and negotiate a host nation’s profile worldwide, not just of new trade agreements with Europe politically but in fashion, the arts and and the rest of the world. May actually more. It turned her into a political icon voted to remain part of the EU, along — albeit a divisive one — who would with her predecessor Cameron. She lead the country for 11 years and was the Conservative Party favorite create a movement, Thatcherism. to be prime minister but didn’t nab the Just like her female predecessor, role until her pro-Brexit rival Andrea May becomes prime minister at Leadsom dropped out of the race on a time when the country faces Monday. immense challenges — not simply May has already set out a Brexit and the divisions it left, but social-minded agenda, vowing to also huge income disparity between curb executive pay; put low-ranking the north and south of the country; workers on corporate boards, and skyrocketing housing costs in London; champion the ordinary folk who feel an aging infrastructure and National they’ve been left behind in Britain’s Health Service, and how to maintain boom years, which dumped dispro- Britain’s place in global affairs once it May at the Royal May at the Royal May in Vivienne portionate amounts of money into no longer is part of the EU. Academy of Arts Academy of Arts Westwood with the pockets of London bankers and Thatcher had her handbags to Summer Exhibition in Summer Exhibition Russell & Bromley financial players. London in 2013. preview in 2015. shoes. help her maneuver through all the As home secretary, May has also issues, while May has her kitten heels fought to keep immigration under and boots. Will she be able to stride Theresa May sported Once May’s fabulous suit of armor control (something Thatcher would through it all, and spawn a movement her Anya Hindmarch is on, she gets down to business. have also strongly favored), telling of her own — Mayism? bag while leaving Known as a tough negotiator, a the Conservative Party conference — SAMANTHA CONTI Downing Street on micro-manager and hard worker, Budget day in 2013. she’s also been described by Ken Clarke, the conservative politician, as a “bloody difficult” woman. In typical style, she embraced the slur, saying Britain needs more “bloody difficult women.” After all, she’s the heir to Thatcher’s Iron Lady. Indeed, both May and Thatcher come from middle class stock — rather than the upper-class echelons of former PM David Cameron and his crew — and both were educated at Oxford. May met her husband of 36 years, Philip May, at a Tory disco party there. (The two were introduced by fellow student, the late Benazir Bhutto, who would become prime minister of Pakistan that was assassinated in 2007.) But while May is certainly poised to be as tough as Thatcher, the two would most certainly disagree on more than a few issues. Socially progressive — May voted in favor of Britain’s same-sex May in Roland Mouret marriage in 2013, and outlawed plans at the Conservative for national identity cards in order Party Conference in May and David to protect people’s privacy — she’s Manchester in 2015. Cameron in 2015. pro-business but wants to halt Photographs by Steve Back, David Fisher, Ray Tang, Tim Rooke, Andrew Cowie and Stephen Coke/REX/Shutterstock and Stephen Cowie Andrew Rooke, Tim Tang, Ray David Fisher, Back, Steve by Photographs Fashion + Business + Beauty + Mens + Runway + Accessories +

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Karen Elson in Moncler’s fall neys New York, Giorgio Armani, Oscar de la Renta, 2016 campaign. DeBeers, Porsche Design and Villebrequin. Longtime tenant Ralph Lauren shut down in April, Fashion six months after moving to a smaller location in the mall, according to a report in the Dallas Morning News. It was among four units the company closed. — HOLLY HABER Scoops

Demoulin Exits Staying Mum hidden in plain sight,” Bryan Chris DeMoulin, managing director of the Fashion “He’s here tonight, Group for UBM Americas, has exited the company, Cranston disclosed on Monday night. “I can’t point according to sources. Last month, Tommy Fazio him out to you or anyone else, because he put a lot resigned as president of retail fashion for UBM of people in prison and they would like nothing more Americas. than to get back at him.” A spokeswoman for UBM Americas did not Espionage, drug rings and even members of the respond to requests for comment on the reason for Witness Protection Program were the talk at the DeMoulin’s departure, or if a successor has been New York premiere of “The Infiltrator,” the true story named. of federal agent Bob Mazur who goes undercover to DeMoulin also did not respond to a call for com- infiltrate Pablo Escobar’s drug trafficking operation. ment on Tuesday. Mazur himself was apparently on site, an apparition- This was DeMoulin’s second go-round with the al presence to reporters and moviegoers — James company’s fashion division. He served as president Franco, Mickey Rourke and, curiously, Pauly Shore of MAGIC International from 2008 to 2012 and among them. styled by Perez and shot at the kitschy Madonna Inn, in San had been president of licensing and executive “He’s pretending to be a bad guy during the day Luis Obispo, Calif. The collection will be available this week vice president of customer development for UBM and, what got me, is he has to leave that behind Memo Pad exclusively at Macy’s and macys.com, in time for back-to- Advanstar’s power sports and automotive division every day when he comes home and becomes Bob school shopping. before being named to his most recent position in Mazur the dad, the husband,” Cranston, who spent The petite fashionista infused her personal style into the November 2015. ample time with Mazur to research the role, contin- The Old and The New ued. “I was curious about a man who likes that duality Moncler reenlisted the photographic services of Annie images by pairing the newest Material Girl silhouettes with UBM Americas is part of UBM plc, the largest her signature fishnet tights and bandanna, accessorized trade show organizer in the U.S. and owner of MAG- and how he makes it all real and authentic.” Leibovitz for its fall campaign, while working with two new Cranston credited the script with encapsulating faces for the brand: Karen Elson and James Jagger, the with a sparkly custom tooth grill. IC, Project, Coterie, WWDMAGIC, FN Platform, MRket “Working with Material Girl has been an opportunity to and other shows. Mazur’s moral complexity. “[The scenes] are like a 30-year-old son of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall who recently soufflé,” Cranston explained with a smile. “And you be involved in all aspects of the line, helping to formulate a — JEAN E. PALMIERI appeared in HBO’s “Vinyl.” make the soufflé and do what’s written. And then you direction and a vibe, to have my voice heard and my vision Titled “A Surrealist Fantasy,” the images draw on Nordic bake it for the right amount, you rehearse the scene, fairy tales and nature, including a most on-brand element, seen. For the fall campaign, I styled and accessorized the collection, chose the photographer and decided which No Longer in Dallas you get it right, and it rises to a certain point. And snow. One shot depicts Elson in a puffer gown perched sometimes it really rises. Those come as surprises.” rooms at the Madonna Inn to utilize for which outfits. It’s Intermix has shuttered its 10-year-old store at on a rock in a river and holding a tree branch. On an even Cranston’s costar Diane Kruger, beaming in a important to me for everything I do to be true to who I am, NorthPark Center. more surreal note, an image features Jagger seated in a crimson Jason Wu gown, has an equally meaty and I feel like this campaign is definitely that,” said Perez. “We’re constantly evaluating our real estate room with a snow-dusted floor, draped in a red puffer cape role. “She was a total trailblazer,” Kruger told WWD. Fans can also glimpse the outfits live in the first episode portfolio to ensure we have the right stores in the with his face obscured by what looks like a caged set with Kruger plays Kathy Ertz in the film, Mazur’s fiancée of the StyleHaul digital series, which also premieres on right places to best serve our customers,” said Liz a snowy tree. and rookie agent also undercover. “Women those Wednesday. Each episode will be shoppable and include a Nunan, spokeswoman for Gap Inc., which owns The ads were photographed in upstate New York, and days never went undercover so she had to fight to link to “Pia’s Picks,” a collection of her favorite Material Girl the specialty chain. “The decision to close a store this is the fourth time Moncler has used Leibovitz to shoot be taken seriously.” items available on macys.com. Material Girl, Pia Mia and is always a difficult one. A number of factors can the company’s campaign. The ads will break in September After viewing the film, in theaters Wednesday, StyleHaul combined have a social media reach of more impact the decision.” fashion titles worldwide as well as online. — JESSICA IREDALE the cast cabbed it downtown (apparently Kruger than 500 million followers. — MARCY MEDINA It’s the only store that the chain has folded in this changed in the car, as she arrived to the club in a fiscal year, she added. black sheer number) to Lavo to dance in a corner Catharine Flagg, spokeswoman for NorthPark, Pia’s Moment booth. — ALEXIS NOELLE BARNETT Pia Mia will make her official debut as fashion director and Pia Mia in a said the closure was planned, and Ugg Australia will campaign face of Madonna’s Material Girl line today, as MG Material Girl ad open in the 2,495-square-foot spot later this year. Bryan Icon, the joint venture between Iconix Brand Group, Inc., Guy for Macy’s. Intermix seemed to struggle at NorthPark from Cranston Oseary and Madonna unveils the brand’s first ads for fall the start. Within its first few years of opening in and Diane 2016. WWD first reported that Guam native Pia Mia Perez, September 2006, the store was downsized roughly Kruger the YouTube star and recording artist, had been tapped for in half. the new post in April. The stylish retailer was part of NorthPark’s push Also making its debut is the first episode of the original for luxury tenants that began with the mall’s expan- StyleHaul docu-series on Perez, which follows her journey sion in 2006 and continues today. Other high-end in Hollywood and New York, both personally and profes- stores that didn’t make it at NorthPark include Bar- sionally. The images were shot by Solmaz Saberi and

RETAIL unusual pieces that mix textures and colors From left: Teslin and are more obviously upcycled from Doud, Eileen Fisher and Lucy garments. There are also artisanal pieces that Eileen Fisher Collection Jones. resemble art. Instead of cutting up the silk stained tops, for example, they dyed over them. They took the colorful ones and “bundle” dyed them by Gets Pop-up Shop sprinkling dye extracts and eucalyptus leaves on the shirt, then rolling it up and binding it ● ‘Remade in the USA’ was winners Teslin Doud, Carmen Gama and Lucy in a little bundle and steaming them for an designed by CFDA Social Jones — all graduates of The New School’s hour. Those pieces start at $58. They also Parsons School of Design — participated in a took damaged sweaters and needle felted Innovator winners: Teslin 12-month residency project to prototype com- them together. They created a new fabric, Doud, Carmen Gama and Lucy mercially viable ways to make new designs the pattern determined by the placement of Jones. from the damaged clothes received from the the colors, which were then cut and sewn Green Eileen recycling program. The program into a new garment. For coats, they used 15 BY LISA LOCKWOOD is a zero-waste project. to 20 sweaters. The coats are two layers of “For this project our goal was to find sweaters, and a kimono cardigan and pullover techniques that minimize waste and preserve sweater (made with cashmere) are created Eileen Fisher will unveil its first pop-up retail the inherent value of Eileen Fisher materials,” with one layer of sweaters. These pieces start store in Brooklyn at the Glass House at 47 Gama said. “They’re so beautiful, they can at $500. Bergen Street. easily have a second and maybe third life.” The designers chose The Glass House The shop will feature the exclusive launch The “Remade in the USA” collection is the which is a very small venue with an organic of “Remade in the USA,” the limited-edition first scalable zero-waste collection offering feeling. The pop-up shop will also be an 500-piece collection created by the CFDA one-of-a kind pieces created from felting educational and spiritual place with mending Social Innovator Award winners. The shop techniques and natural dyeing redesigned workshops and yoga classes. will be open July 23 and 24 and July 30 and in well-known Fisher patterns. The shop will items with consistent damages. For example, The Social Innovators Award was a 31, from noon to 7 p.m. There will be a kickoff include the “Remade in the USA” collection, silk with food stains made a perfect candidate yearlong residency providing the three event, open to the public, on July 22. as well as select products from Green Eileen for overdyeing. Pants with torn inseams were winners with work experience in all aspects In partnership with the Council of Fashion and Eileen Fisher. an ample source for new designs, and sweat- of the business, from concept and design to Designers of America, Fisher created the inau- In the “Remade in the USA” collection, for ers with moth holes were fed into a felting sourcing and sustainability, guided by Fisher’s gural Social Innovators Award, offering fash- example, the designers realized that three machine to create new fabric. design and merchandising teams. Each also ion design students the opportunity to work pairs of wide-leg pants can be transformed The shop will feature garments that look received a prize of $50,000. It hasn’t been alongside the brand’s designers, merchan- into one new silk tunic. The trio of designers brand new, even though they were created determined whether the residency will

Cranston/Kruger photograph by Kristina Bumphrey/StarPix/REX/Shutterstock Kristina by photograph Cranston/Kruger disers and social consciousness teams. The looked through the recycled garments to find from recycled materials. There are also be repeated.