travel Saturday, May 18, 2019 VancouVer Sun H5 hums with cultural riches, culinary pleasures

Jane Mundy hundreds of art galleries, muse- ums, cultural centres, and the- Talk to just about any local porteño atres. With a population of around — a person of the port — and you’ll 2.8 million, Buenos Aires has at soon hear that Buenos Aires is least 734 bookstores. El Ateneo the best city in the world. And Grand Splendid, built as a theatre no wonder: Thanks to a diverse in 1919 and arguably the world’s cultural heritage with stunning most beautiful and famous book- architecture surrounded by vast shop, was packed with people — in- green spaces, a thriving art scene, cluding teenagers — reading books superb cuisine and wine, there’s in elegant theatre boxes. something for everyone. Everywhere is a colour-explo- With its wide, tree-lined ave- sion of street art, and artists can nues flanked with ornate Euro- legally paint these amazing murals pean buildings housing so many (check out the street art tours). In sidewalk cafes, Buenos Aires is October and November streets be- nicknamed The Paris of South come purple tunnels of huge jaca- America. randa trees. A must is the MALBA In the early 20th century Ar- museum with its incredible collec- gentina was one of the wealthiest tion of Latin American works such cities in the world, and European as Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar and Fer- architects, artists, intellectuals nando Botero. and others who immigrated here If you like joining in (think created a multicultural environ- “hands up, baby hands up” Club ment filled with culture and art, Med style) and wearing funny hats, which thrives today. Right away go for the Argentine experience. you feel the city’s creativity — it’s Besides making your own empana- palpable. das, you learn the basics of being After checking into my stellar an Argentine, and the wine flows garden suite at Home Hotel in freely. Palermo (complete with private I (temporarily) converted to car- wading pool, upstairs sun deck nivore over a splendid three-hour surrounded by greenery, vinyl re- lunch at La Cabrera, with heaving cord player and artsy coffee table platters of Wagyu and Angus beef books), Yamila Giserman with (Argentine meat is superb, main- Destino Tourism and I ly because they range on pampas visited the Evita Museum — fitting- grass), chimichurri sauce and ly on International Women’s Day. grilled veggies, and of course a bot- Yamila told me that young wom- tle of Malbec. Service was flawless en identify with Evita. She pushed and our server tossed coleslaw ta- for women’s suffrage, obtained in bleside from a cocktail shaker. It’s Strolling the little streets of Cementerio de la Recoleta. Jane Mundy 1947, and the museum was once a a bit pricier than some restaurants home for destitute single mothers (US$40 per person) where lunch that Eva Duarte founded. Here is averages about $35 including wine. much of Evita’s heritage, including There are many intriguing her famous dresses and a photo- neighbourhoods to explore, and graph of her kicking a soccer ball the best way to see them is the — in high heels. On-Off bus. We passed houses in Yamila also told me that 10 years various stages of decaying splen- ago you were crazy to cycle here. dour smack up against polished if you go Now bikes are free for the first steel and glass skyscrapers. Riots hour and bike lanes abound. Many of colour — turquoise, red and yel- people take advantage of parks low — are splashed on corrugated Air Canada’s 787 Dreamliner with “healthy stations” and clus- steel storefronts. Some passengers flies from Vancouver to Bue- ters of athletic bodies exercising in got off to join throngs of fans at La nos Aires via Toronto. There so much green space is phenome- Bombonera, the yellow and blue is a noticeable difference nal. Gyms are prolific, women car- football stadium. The Boca neigh- with the aircraft’s lower cabin ry yoga mats everywhere and I’ve bourhood was once the centre of pressure. Even in economy I never seen so many dog walkers. immigrant life, particularly for managed to get some shut- Restaurants and bars carry Italians. eye and I didn’t land with my pet-friendly “su mascota es bi- And Italian architecture is best usual red eyes and headache. envenida” signs. Billboards re- seen and experienced with a tour mind you to pick up after pooch of Palacio Barolo. is the main city square in Buenos Aires. Getty IMaGes but that’s another similarity with After rubbing the bronze condor Paris, not everyone does. in the lobby for good luck, we took are perfectly located in this pedes- in Argentina. Across the road I checking into the opulent Pala- Cabbies blast through intersec- the elevator to the 22nd floor and trian and bike friendly ’hood. stopped for an aperitif and a nod cio Duhau for my last night and a tions with nerves of steel, no such climbed the last two floors upst eps Recoleta is filled with aristo- to Jorge Luis Borges at La Biela. splendid dinner on the balcony at thing as taking turns. Interesting- so narrow my size 7 shoe bare- cratic splendour, from gardens All neighbourhoods have simi- the civilized hour of 8 p.m. The neo- ly, there seem to be as many me- ly fit. The panoramic view of the and residences to historical mon- larities: restaurants are filled with classical architecture of this grand chanics as there are cafes on urban city — including all the important uments. Here is the Cementerio diners at 11 p.m., (they sleep in) and mansion makes this Park Hyatt a streets. And not getting ripped off buildings and an apartment block de la Recoleta, aptly described as a shops stay open past midnight. unique landmark and I would have by taxi drivers is a goal for both that houses prostitutes and their macabre scaled-down Disney Vil- Unfortunately I didn’t get into loved to luxuriate longer. porteños and tourists. families with clothes hanging from lage. You walk its little “streets” that groove — fell asleep and missed The writer was a guest of Destino The subway is also a good way to almost every balcony — is worth that house Argentina’s rich and the dinner show at Rojo Tan- Argentina, which neither approved get around, but Buenos Aires has the climb. famous remains, including Evita. go. Fortunately, I watched talented nor read this article before publica- the typical Latin American big city The middle-class Palermo - It’s the most expensive real estate tango buskers in the park before tion. challenges: Yamila warned me to trict has recently gone upscale. beware bag snatchers and pick- Hipsters fill swanky restaurants SAVE UP pockets — wear your backpack in and cafes that spill onto sidewalks; $1,200 front and don’t place your phone shops feature indie designers and BOOK BY on an outdoor café table. small boutique hotels (no high-ris- Travel in LuxurytoIndia MAY31 You could spend weeks visiting es) like Home Hotel, where I stayed, EXPLORE INDIA SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURS

We manage the details so youcan makememories.

•International roundtrip airfare •Air Conditioned Volvocoachtransportation with •Escortedtransfers from airport-hotel-airport with room facility •Meals, guided tours, entrances, wildlifesafari’s •Services of an accompanying ExploreIndia •Accommodation in 5star hotels and resorts tour director 10 Day –The Magical India 15 Day -Impressions of India Delhi,Agra, Ranthambore &Jaipur Delhi,Jaipur,Ranthambore,Agra, Khajurao & Varanasi

Multiple DepartureDates2019-2020 Multiple DepartureDates2019-2020 W/ AIR* FROM W/ AIR* FROM Save up to $600 $3,099 $2,799CAD Save up to $800 $4,799$4,399CAD 16 DAY–Jewels of SouthIndia 18 Day -Luxury-The Camel Senior Discovery Tours takes care of every detail, so all you have to do is enjoy the Chennai, Mahabalipuram,Pondicherry,Tanjore, Fair &SacredGanges world. Unlike many tour operators, we include everything: flights, airport transfers, Chettinad, Madurai,Munnar,Periyar,Backwaters& Delhi,Udaipur, Pushkar, Jaipur, Ranthambore,Agra Cochin excursions, accommodations, most meals, tipping, taxes, and travel insurance. &Varanasi We’ll even pick you up and drop you off at home in most Canadian cities.Call us today. Multiple DepartureDates 2019-2020MultipleDeparture Dates2019-2020 BARCELONA &CATALONIA W/ AIR* FROM W/ AIR* FROM 14 Days•Departs September 20 Save up to $1,200 $6,399$5,799CAD Save up to $600 $7,799$7,499CAD Value-packed tourtoBarcelona,Monserrat, Girona, Costa Brava andTarragona. Includes 160711 Air Canada Rouge flights, First Class hotels and GUARANTEE BEST PRICE! BOOK NOW! #2 breakfast and dinner (with wine) daily. LIMITED INVENTORY! CALL US TODAY Reg $5487 p.p. double 1-800-515-3808 www.exploreindia.ca *IncludesAir fromVancouver and Toronto. FaresinCAD,per person,based on double occupancyinahotel. **Savings areper coupleand includedinadvertised price. Government taxes, fees andgratuities areextra.AdditionalfeesappliestoSingle supplement. Advertised price from $2,799applies to MagicalIndia Tour Sep 17,2019only. Alltoursare subject to availability. All ratesare subjecttochange &availabilityattime of booking.The costofthe insuranceisincludedinthe price of the tour forImpressionsofIndia, and the pricecannotbereduced 1.800.268.3492 PROUDLYCANADIAN FOR 40 YEARS SeniorDiscoveryTours.ca for thosewho reside wherecoverage isnot available or who arenot medicallyabletotravel.Emergencymedical coverage is available at additional cost.Travelinsurance includedisnot available to residentsofQuebec and WashingtonState, NewYork State, USA. Explore IndiaJourneysInc. reservethe righttocorrect errors and omissions. BPCPA#73057