● RAW MATERIALS

Resurrection of ‘heritage’ grains Part 1: British barley varieties

Traditional harvesting of Chevalier at Gressenhall Farm, Norfolk “Let husky wheat the haughs adorn’, cultural biodiversity (‘agrobiodiversity’) is a key factor in the battle to achieve And aits set up their awnie horn, food security for a growing population And peas and beans at e’en or morn in a world of climate change. Over the past century, plant breed- Perfume the plain. ing has led to the development of Leeze me on thee, John Barleycorn, cultivars that have often been based on a single genotype with increased yield Thou king of grain!?” potential and disease resistance. This Robert Burns has been referred to by some as ‘agri- cultural industrialisation’ and results By Ian Hornsey in the production of ‘agro-ecosystems’, which result in the loss of the old Like it or not, the potentially devastating impact of climate landraces that had been produced by continual selection by farmers. If we change, plus the fact that the global population is expected exclude Antarctica, agro-ecosystems to reach nine billion by 2050, means that agriculture faces now cover around 38% of our planet’s land mass. massive challenges. Of prime importance is the need to increase the productive capacity and stability of our major Why are ‘heritage’ crop species important? crops, i.e. maintain ‘food security’. During intensive barley-breeding programmes, some attributes, in- f the 150-odd plant species regu- rice, and maize. In addition, barley is cluding some of those of importance Olarly used for human sustenance, vital for malting and livestock feed. to the brewer, have undoubtedly been just 12 provide around 75% of the Maintaining plant biodiversity is seen lost; indeed, some modern barley world’s plant-based food, with 50% as being at the centre of the global strains have been bred to not have of man’s food-derived energy coming food security challenge. Indeed, the any flavour at all! It is estimated that from the three ‘mega crops’: wheat, conservation and management of agri- in many of our modern crop species

24 z Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 www.ibd.org.uk RAW MATERIALS l

have been at the forefront of these activities. At present, some 35Ha of bere is grown on Orkney (much less in Shet- land), most of which goes for malting at Baird’s Inverness plant and Crisp’s Portgordon malting. Some grain is taken for milling by Barony Mill to produce its traditional ‘beremeal’ (ca. 10 tonnes annually), but bere malt goes mostly to Bruichladdich distillery for whisky production and a few craft brewers (including Valhalla and Swan- nay) on the islands. Harvesting bere at Burray, Orkney, 1908 Valhalla on the island of Unst, only about 20% of the original diver- The Royal Botanic Gardens at in the north of Shetlands, and the sity of their wild ancestors has been Kew is leading a global plant con- most northerly UK brewery, launched retained. servation programme to collect wild its bottled ‘Island Bere’ (4.2% ABV) The main downside of the Green relatives of our major food crops for in 2006 and it is still one of its core Revolution, a term coined in the use in plant breeding programmes. products. ‘Island Bere’ is thought to be 1960s, is that the crop uniformity in- Here, we will consider two heritage the first commercial beer to have been troduced into farmers’ fields renders barleys. brewed with 100% bere. plants genetically vulnerable to biotic Regarding the crop, Peter said: and abiotic stresses. Landraces, also Bere “It is spring barley which is well- known as ‘local varieties’ or ‘farmer This ancient 6-row barley has been suited to the north of Scotland’s varieties’, are heterogeneous crop in continuous cultivation in Orkney, short growing season because of its varieties that are reproduced by Shetland and parts of the Western vigorous early growth and ability to farmers and represent populations Isles for about one thousand years produce a crop of grain in a short pe- that are subjected to both natural and may have been introduced during riod. It can be harvested 2-3 weeks and artificial selection. From genetic the Norse settlement or even earlier. earlier than most modern spring studies, it is now evident that crop Dr Peter Martin, of the Agronomy barley varieties on the UK recom- landraces are highly complex and Institute, University of the Highlands mended list. Also, it does not require highly varied in their make-up, and and Islands in Kirkwall, has written a lot of inputs but the downside are in fact, evolving entities. eruditely about the crop in a recent is that grain yield is much lower Twenty-five years ago the moderni- B&DI, and I won’t attempt to compete (2.6-3.8 tonnes/Ha) than for modern sation of agriculture led one commen- with that. Commercial markets for varieties of malting barley. tator to declare that: “The heteroge- beremeal and malt have helped to Bere always lodges and in some neous varieties of the past have been conserve the crop in Orkney and the years this makes harvesting a chal- and still are the plant breeder’s raw Agronomy Institute, together with lenge! Nitrogen content is higher than material. They have been a fruitful, Birsay Heritage Trust (which runs for modern malting barley – around sometimes the sole, source of genes Barony Mill) and a small group of lo- 1.80-1.90% dm and PSY is lower (ca. for pest and disease resistance, ad- cal farmers, including Sydney Gauld, 370 LA/tonne)”. aptation to difficult environments, and other agricultural traits like the dwarf- type in grains that have contributed to the green revolution in many parts of the world.” Re-introducing heterogeneity into our crops is one way of amelio- rating the effects of climate change – and re-visiting the biology of ‘her- itage’ crops is an obvious start. Also important are wild ancestors (Horde- um spontaneum C.Koch in the case of barley) and plants known as ‘crop wild relatives’ (CWR), which are basically ‘wild cousins of cultivated crop species’. The latter have been used for many decades for plant breeding and can contribute a wide range of useful traits. Conservation of CWR is now an urgent priority, as is the preparation of a portfolio of CWRs in a form that plant breeders can readily use. Bere growing on Orkney, 4th October, 2015 www.ibd.org.uk Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 z 25 l RAW MATERIALS

1880. This tax on malt was replaced by a tax on beer itself, which meant that British brewers sought to brew more economically, resulting in increasing volumes of cheap malt being imported from abroad. Rice and maize, and other malt substitutes were also increasingly used. Remarkably, though in decline, Chevalier was still winning prizes at what was to be the last Brewers’ Exhibition in 1914. After World War I, it was to be replaced by the hybrids, ‘Plumage-Archer’ and ‘Spratt-Arch- er’, which would dominate the British crop during the inter-war years. There are several versions of how Valhalla Brewery’s ‘Island Bere’ Chevalier came into existence, one of which appears in the 2012 The Oxford Companion to Beer. Chris Ridout ‘harvesting’ The ‘Chevalier’ story Chevalier# is a 2-row, narrow- and plumpness of kernel, and great Up until the early 1800s, malting eared variety originally classified weight. All the best qualities of every barley consisted of ‘landraces’, which as Hordeum distichum, but several class of barley seem combined in were mixtures of types grown from seedsmen developed their own sub- this one variety, excepting that is not saved seed and known by exotic names varieties, so that the description awnless.” such as ‘Long Ear Nottingham’ and came to cover a wide range of nar- Stopes continues with: “Formerly ‘Old Wiltshire Archer’. By the end of row-eared forms of barley. Malting the most approved by maltsters was that century, due to gradual selection protocol towards the end of the 19th called the Rath or Early Ripe, in con- and re-selection, a number of malt- century was summarised by Stopes, sequence of its ripening two or three ing lines had been developed, some who tells us: “Chevalier barley is weeks before the common sorts. As major ones in Britain being ‘Chevalier’, probably the most widely distributed it did not equal the Chevalier, it has ‘Archer’, ‘Spratt’ and ‘Goldthorpe’ and best known variety. It originated to a large extent been replaced by the which are now regarded as ‘heritage’ from the careful cultivation and latter, and is now little grown. It was or ‘heirloom’ varieties. selection of the Rev. J. Chevallier comparatively a plump, thin-skinned The first of the ‘heritage’ barleys of Stonham, Suffolk. It now grows barley, but as on these points bet- to be investigated for potential use most successfully in every coun- ter sorts are now cultivated, it has in barley breeding was Chevalier, a try of Northern Europe, America, passed from the general knowledge 2-row, spring-planted variety which Australia, New Zealand, and even of maltsters.” dominated the English barley crop for Chile. It produces heavy crops of ex- It seems as though ‘Chevalier’ was nearly 100 years and only really started tremely friable grain, distinguished used to distinguish the barley from the to fall out of favour when William by their almost transparent husk, Chevallier family. Dr Beaven uses this Gladstone repealed the Malt Tax in high percentage of starch, evenness terminology – and that’s good enough for me.

Strong resistance to Fusarium The resurrection of Chevalier as com- mercial variety commenced in 2001 when plant geneticist Dr Chris Ridout of the John Innes Centre (JIC) in Nor- wich received a £600 public engage- ment grant from the Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC) to run an event, un- der the title of ‘Breeding Better Beer’. This was carried out in conjunction with the research brewery at Sunder- land University’s Brewlab facility. The purpose of these grants is “to maxim- ise the impact of our knowledge, skills, facilities and resources for the benefit of the UK and its people”; in common parlance; “to explain to people where their money goes”. The general public was invited to learn about different Chevalier barley barley varieties and the spectrum of

26 z Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 www.ibd.org.uk RAW MATERIALS l

Crisp malting plant

Micro-malting Pilot malting Floor malting beers that can be made from them. At evaluate the malt and assess whether is owned by The Morley Agricultural the forefront of the presentation were there is a market for it … it comes at a Foundation (TMAF) and farmed by some old ‘heritage’ barley varieties time of high consumer interest in food Morley Farms Ltd (MFL), who liaises grown from seed kept in JIC’s Germ- provenance. People want to know the with JIC on many projects. TMAF, plasm Resources Unit (GRU), about history behind the stuff they are eating whose headquarters are near Wy- whom more anon. and drinking.” It will also enable JIC mondham, Norfolk was formed in 2003 The huge success of the evening to evaluate Chevalier grown under and it inherited its assets from the old led to Ridout and Brewlab’s Keith modern intensive agricultural condi- Morley Research Station, ex-Norfolk Thomas to conclude that the proper- tions. Public demonstrations of the Agricultural Station. ties of these heritage strains would Chevalier crop grown with traditional At Church Farm, the light soil is be worth investigating for any traits Victorian methods were carried out at suitable for early drilling which is that might be useful to today’s crop the Gressenhall Museum of Rural Life, appropriate for work with older va- breeders. Accordingly, Thomas en- near Dereham, Norfolk. rieties. JIC and TMAF work together gaged a PhD student, Amal Muham- on many projects, with Morley carry- mad, to investigate such things, and Field trials ing out large-scale field operations she found that one variety, Cheva- With research now well under way, it such as ploughing, and JIC field lier, showed a marked resistance to was now considered appropriate to trials people designing the experi- Fusarium Head Blight (FHB), a fun- produce a crop which was duly sown ments. JIC’s field trials manager gus that imparts potent mycotoxins at Church Farm, Bawburgh, which Cathy Mumford and Morley Farms (especially deoxynivalenol) to grain and causes a reduction in yield and 2013 Micro- 2013 Micro- 2013 Floor- 2014 Micro- 2014 Pilot- malt quality. malted GA+ malted GA- malted malted malted Subsequent work at JIC confirmed Moisture 4.5 4.9 3.7 4.5 3.6 that Chevalier did indeed offer strong resistance to Fusarium. This good news IOB Extract 0. 7mm (L°/kg dry) 302 295 307 299 308 was partly mitigated by the fact that resistance to FHB is associated with IOB Colour Visual (EBC) 4.3 3.6 4.3 2.6 5.4 certain agronomic traits, most notably Total Nitrogen (% dry) 1.70 1.75 1.81 1.39 1.46 height – and, like bere, Chevalier has a tall height phenotype, which causes IOB Total Soluble Nitrogen 0.72 0.58 0.92 0.56 0.78 problems when harvesting mechani- (% dry) cally. The FHB resistance discovery led IOB Soluble Nitrogen Ratio 42.6 33.2 50.8 40.5 53.1 BBSRC to offer a CASE studentship at IOB FAN in Wort (mg/L) 158 107 197 120 169 JIC to genetically map resistance, the recipient being PhD student Rachel Friability (%) 90 80 95 85 92 Goddard. Among other things, this research would enable JIC to discover Homogeneity (%) 97 94 99 99 98 the feasibility of breeding this resist- Partly Unmodified Grains (%) 3 6 1 1 - ance into high-yielding commercial strains. The expectation engendered Whole Glassy Corns (%) 1.4 2.6 0.9 0 0.6 by the fact that heritage barleys might soon be available for brewing aroused Alpha Amylase (DU dry) 72 58 66 42 64 so much interest from the internation- Diastatic Power (°IOB as-is) 133 124 107 82 78 al craft brewing fraternity, that BBSRC were minded to award Ridout’s group IOB Beta Glucan in Wort (mg/L) 121 226 41 355 151 a £198K follow-on grant for ‘New Heritage Breeding for accelerated trait IOB Wort Viscosity (mPa.S) 1.53 1.57 1.55 1.68 1.50 development in barley’. IOB Wort pH - - - 5.92 5.74 As Ridout said at the time: “The second grant enables us to fully Table 1: Malt analysis from 2013 and 2014 Chevalier www.ibd.org.uk Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 z 27 l RAW MATERIALS

manager, David Jones, Successfully withal to brew ‘heritage’ beer styles work closely together to registered, NHBL with ‘heritage’ grains and Norfolk’s identify fields suitable is now the official Stumptail Brewery is the first to brew for experimental work. maintainer for with the newly available malt. The To obtain a volume of Chevalier and is brewery, based at Great Dunham, seed suitable for sowing, responsible for en- Norfolk, was founded in 2011 by Sarah five Chevalier seeds from suring its integrity. de Vos, primarily to exhaustively as- GRU stock were taken and NHBL has an agree- sess Chevalier’s performance in the gradually (over five years) ment to supply Crisp brewhouse. bulked-up to enable the with Chevalier seed Ridout was able to secure enough planting at Bawburgh. which it then grows malt to brew a firkin to coincide with Samples from this harvest to produce malt and the 2013 CAMRA AGM held in April were micro-malted and market it to brew- in Norwich. Named ‘Heritage Special pilot-scale malted at the ers, with Crisp also Bitter’, the 4.8% ABV beer was very Crisp Malting Group’s having exclusive well received when on sale in the city’s Great Ryburgh site in access to other new Duke of Wellington pub. Other beers Norfolk, who would now ‘old’ barley varieties brewed here (to keep the mash-tun become an integral part deemed suitable for busy) use other barley varieties and of the project. re-commercialisa- are ‘Mild’,4.8% ABV; ‘ESB’, 5.1%; ‘Por- With the small-scale tion. Also involved ter’, 5.2%, and ‘Stout’, 5.4%, which are trials over, Crisp was now in NHBL are Chris based on Victorian recipes and Czech- in a position to under- Poppyland Brewery: ‘Days of Empire’ Ridout and Dr Paul style ‘Pilsner’ (5.1%) and ‘American take a trial floor malting but needed a Nicholson (JIC) as scientific advisers. Pale Ale’ (4.9%). minimum 0.5 tonne to make it feasible. NHBL/JIC initiated a collaborative Also, in April 2013, Martin War- The initial problem was that no one project with Michigan State Univer- ren, another local Norfolk brewer, had grown the variety for years and sity’s Upper Peninsula Research and was given the opportunity to brew with so there were no agronomic pointers Extension Centre (UPREC), which was Chevalier at his Poppyland Brewery to rely on, which meant that Ridout’s then extended through funding from – the result of a chance meeting with team had to engage with the Morley BBSRC, to investigate the feasibility of Ridout. As Martin related: “It was team to devise a pilot scheme and then growing heritage cultivars in eastern a windfall of 8.5kg of quite ragged scale up. US and Canada. Barley has not been crushed malt and I was invited to brew In the event, a yield equivalent to grown in these areas for many years with it to see what it was like. Being four tonnes/acre was achieved, around because production shifted to the west. such a small quantity I could not put it 60% of a ‘modern spring’ variety. With Also, warm, humid conditions in the through my brewhouse, so I fell back the farming side ‘sorted’, Crisp was east are favourable for the growth of on home-brewing in my kitchen. able to undertake a floor malting of the Fusarium. In this project, British varie- “I had practically no equipment ex- 2013 crop. Around 500Kg of Chevalier ties deriving from a cross with Cheva- cept buckets, sieves, large saucepans grains, with 1.8%N, were partitioned lier are being evaluated for resistance and a hydrometer and thermometer, off from another barley sample being to the fungus. so it was a very primitive affair. I want- malted by means of screen boards and The GRU, which is managed by Mike ed to showcase the malt of course, so I were on the floor for seven days. Ambrose, is also supported by BBSRC brewed strong ale with what malt I had The malt produced had excel- and holds material for academic and … it was as strong a beer as I could lent quality and went to a number of industrial use, both national and inter- make without using adjunct.” micro-brewers with the remainder of national. Material is stored at 1.5°C and The beer produced was the 6.8% the barley going forward for sowing the 10% relative humidity, and samples are ABV ‘Days of Empire’, a bottle-condi- following year. Malt analyses of micro- dispatched in tandem with a mate- tioned beer (selling at £20 a bottle!) malted, pilot malted and floor malted rial transfer agreement (MTA) which which won a gold medal at CAMRA’s grain from the 2013 and 2014 crops are outlines the conditions of use and the 2015 ‘Bottle Beer of the Year’ competi- shown in Table 1. responsibilities of the recipient. The MTA is basically to provide evi- New Heritage Barley Ltd. dence of due diligence in cases where By the end of 2014, it was time to look an audit trail is required for special- at commercial aspects of Chevalier ised work carried out on said material and so a new company was formed (e.g. commercialisation or patenting with a remit to bring ‘old’ barley accruing from research). The MTA is a varieties back into agriculture and to standard document from International carry out further research on heritage Treaty for plant Genetic Resources material as sources of valuable traits. for Food and Agriculture. There are Named ‘New Heritage Barley Ltd’ around 10,900 accessions of barley at (NHBL), the company is run by Dr Sa- JIC’s GRU. rah de Vos, a colleague of Ridout, and the next step was to register Cheva- Brewing with Chevalier lier as a ‘Conservation Variety’ (CV) The need to address food security under the EC Directive on germplasm challenges has surreptitiously pro- Cheshire Brewhouse; ‘Govinda Chevalier resources. vided craft brewers with the where- Edition’

28 z Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 www.ibd.org.uk RAW MATERIALS l

tion. Again, in Martin’s words: “The ‘Govinda Chevallier chased by Anheuser yield was not brilliant on account of Edition’, the beer Busch in my primitive setup, but it didn’t stop it weighed in at 2011, ex- being a stonking beer. 6.8% ABV, and in head brewer “To get the taste of the 19th century Swindells’ words: Greg Hall was I chose Goldings for bittering, Fuggle “The finished beer invited back hops late in the boil and a good quan- was very complex and to brew the beer, tity of wild landrace hops in the steep. very malt driven even which he chose The latter I collected from Castle Acre, though we had used simply because: “It Binham and Weybourne, close by the a high bittering addition. We found was the first style I ever brewed for the old monastic ruins and quite obviously that Chevalier imparts a ‘fruity apricot company.” relicts from the early days of brewing jam like aroma and flavour’, and gives Using an infusion mash for one on those sites. I have mapped the oc- ‘much more mouthfeel than modern hour at 67°C, 1038° wort was obtained, currence of wild hops in North Norfolk malts’, the beer caught many drink- which was fermented down to 1010°, and there is a strong association with ers out as they were expecting an IPA after which the beer was conditioned former religious houses.” similar to the American style IPA’s in stainless firkins for three weeks. Warren managed to obtain just everywhere at the moment. The grain bill for the 3.7% ABV, 26 IBU, over 14 litres (51 bottles) of the beer, “In order to appreciate it fully, you beer was: 89% Chevalier malt, 6% pale which was produced “without resorting have to drink a Chevalier beer with an chocolate, and 5% torrefied wheat and to finings, filtration, or pasteurisation. open mind without any preconception the ‘action’ took place in their 3hL pilot It turned out at 6.8% and fairly hoppy of what you think the beer is likely to plant. The beer was judged to be ‘true but with a distinctive flavor from the taste like. Chevalier malt gives a com- to tradition and style’. For the Sierra malt”. plex explosion of flavour and mouth- Nevada offering, head pilot brewer, The Cheshire Brewhouse, Congle- feel, and overpowers the hops”. Abe Kabakoff opted for a 33IBU classic ton, Cheshire was one of the first UK As Shane told me in February this Extra Special Bitter at 5.5% ABV (wort brewers outside of Norfolk to brew year: “We are due to brew with Cheva- OG 1050°) as their commercial beer, with Chevalier on a larger scale when lier again next week – in collaboration but they also made a small congress owner Shane Swindells received a with three other small brewers in mash using 100% Chevalier malt. batch of malt in 2014 and used it to East Anglia. We will also be brewing The nose of the latter was judged brew “an historic IPA”. with ‘Plumage Archer’ in the next few to be “primarily malty, slightly sweet, Swindells had first encountered weeks”. Chevalier at a seminar organised by Crisp and was aware of its potential. Further afield The beer he brewed, called ‘Govinda’, During the 2014 season, a 5Ha plot was based on a Burton Pale Ale reci- was sown at Morley and this yielded 15 pe taken from James Herbert’s 1872 tonnes of Chevalier at 1.48N, of which The Art of Brewing and Swindells four tonnes was taken for malting, the normally brewed this beer with Maris remainder going for seed for sowing Otter. He brewed a 5bbl batch using the following year. As with the first a 4:1 ratio grist of Chevalier:Maris batch, the sample was micro-malted Otter, which was mashed at 66°C for and then pilot malted, whence the three hours. malt produced all went, via Crisp’s US Sparging took three hours and wort distributor Brewers Supply Group, to was then subjected to a three- four US craft brewers at varying hour ‘simmer’, Swindells sections of the size spectrum. averring that: “I believe The breweries con- that Burton brew- cerned were initially ers employed longer Goose Island, Chicago, simmers rather than IL (English dark mild, highly vigorous boils.” 3.7% ABV), and Sierra Thinking that he Nevada, Chico, CA (Clas- would need a higher sic ESB, 5.5% ABV), and level of bittering hops these were followed by to counteract the in- Tributary, Kittery, ME creased sweetness (Baltic porter, 6.3% in malt, the hop ABV and Old Ale, 8.6% addition was 7.5Kg ABV), and the Flying East Kent Goldings Goose Brewpub, New half way through the ‘boil’. Wort OG London, NH (Helles Lager, 5.0% ABV). was 1068° and yeast was pitched at In essence, these brew-houses were 16°C and with daily rousing the beer selected to be bellwethers of the malt was attenuated to 1018° after six days. and between them they covered a On completion, the beer was variety of beer styles and ABVs. racked in 200L oak casks and aged for At Goose Island, which started life six months prior to bottling. Called as a brew-pub in 1988 and was pur- Crisp ‘Chevallier’ heritage malt www.ibd.org.uk Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 z 29 l RAW MATERIALS

with,” – a fact remarked upon by other brewers.

Commercial production The 2015 crop was grown by commercial farmers under the guidance of ex- perience gained through the Morley trials. 200 tonnes were grown and all went for malting – with Morley growing separate batches for seed. This time, malt was produced in Crisp’s Saladin plant and much of it went to Japan and US, the remainder found its way to UK brewers and distillers. One Japanese customer was the T.Y.Harbor Brewery/Restaurant in Tokyo, who’s 6.0% ABV IPA was, for T.Y. Harbor brewhouse, Tokyo and its IPA me, an excellent beer. The 2016 crop and bready”. On the palate “a deli- roasted barley and oats. Bittering was again successful with nearly 300 cious maltiness and mellow sweetness was provided by ‘Warrior’ and aroma tonnes harvested and a number of end stood out over a variety of complex and by ‘Sterling’; Styrian Goldings’ and users awaiting the malt which will be aromatic background flavours”. ‘Challenger’ were also included. produced. At the other end of the scale, Tod The Nottingham ale yeast and the As a finale, it is worth noting Mott’s Tributary Brewing Company, American Chico yeast were used that if it was not for the efforts of with its 25hL brewhouse tidily estab- for fermentation. The Flying Goose Wiltshire farmer Robin Appel, H. lished in an old grocery store, was able brewpub opted for a Helles Lager Banham Ltd. and Warminster Malt- to brew two beers, both based on 19th to demonstrate the versatility of ings, Maris Otter might, because of century recipes. For Old Ale, the grist Chevalier malt. A grist of Chevalier its agronomic traits, have qualified was: 92% Chevalier, 4% Brown malt; (92%); Pale Caramel malt (5%), and for inclusion here, for the variety 2.2% Smoked malt and 1.8% roasted ‘pale wheat’ (3%) was step infusion was facing oblivion at one point. With barley. To increase OG, 3.3lb/bbl white mashed (“50°C at mash in; 77°C at much dedication by the aforemen- sugar was added to the wort kettle. mash out”) at a liquor to grist ratio of tioned, ‘Otter’ survives and might be The Porter was even more complex, 3:1 and an OG of 1049° was obtained. considered as an extant example of a with 80% of the grist consisting of a Tettnanger were used for bittering; ‘nearly-heirloom’ variety. cocktail of base malts, including 35% Hallertau Mittelfrüh for aroma – the Other heritage barleys are cur- Chevalier. beer having 20 IBU. Remarking on the rently being evaluated by NHBL and There were also six special- aroma when milling, brewmaster Rik Crisp with crops being grown in New ity malts, varying from Carahell to Marley observed that: “It is the most Zealand: “To enable two crops to be Black Patent, and small amounts of aromatic malt I have ever brewed grown, thus halving bulking-up time,” said Crisp Malting Group Technical Director Dr David Griggs. It’s a case of “watch this space”.

References Beaven, E.S. Barley: Fifty years of observa- tion and experiment. Duckworth, London. 1947. Clark, C. History of the British malting indus- try since 1830. Hambleton Press, 1998. Hornsey, I.S. Chevallier, in Oliver, G. The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press, New York. 2012. p.240-241. Martin, P., and Chang, X. Bere whisky – rediscovering the spirit of an old barley. Brewer & Distiller International, 4 (6): 41-43. 2008. Martin, P., and Wishart, J. Just here for the bere. Brewer & Distiller International, 11 (1): 28-29. 2015. Stopes, H. Malt & Malting. F.W.Lyon. ‘Plumage Arche’ being bulked in New Zealand London. 1885.

30 z Brewer and Distiller International April 2017 www.ibd.org.uk